The Great Republic A Descriptive, Statistical, and Historical View of the States and Territories of the American Union by James Dabney McCabe
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Title:The great republic; a descriptive, statistical, and historical view of the states and territories of the American union. By James D. McCabe, jr. Illustrated with over two hundred engravings.

Author:McCabe, James Dabney, 1842-1883.

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Print Source:The great republic; a descriptive, statistical, and historical view of the states and territories of the American union.

By James D. McCabe, jr. Illustrated with over two hundred engravings.

McCabe, James Dabney, 1842-1883.

1118 p. front., illus., plates. 23 cm.

Philadelphia,

W. B. Evans & co.;

New York,

W. D. Myers; [etc., etc.

c1871]

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Y- ~ - — I’! ____ ____________ I

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T 1-1 E GREAT REPUBLIC A DESCRIPTIVE, STATISTICAL AND IISTORICAL VIEW OF

THIE STATES AND TERRITORIES OF THE AMNEPICAN UNION. BY; JAMES D.W McCABE, Jr. AUTHOR OF “GREAT FORTUNES, “PLANTING THIE WILDERNE8SS,” “PARIS BY

SUNLIGHT AND GASLIGHT,? ” HISTORY OF THE WAR BETWEEN GERMANY AND FRANCE,”

ETC., ETC. WIT O TO U II URSatIt WITfI OVER TWO IIUNNDRED ENGRAVINGS P H I L A D E L P H I A WILLIAM B. EVAANS New York, W. D. MYERS. Bostotn, GEO.

M. SMITH & CO. S(an, z’anlisco, A. I,. BANC’IOFT & CO. ON WOOD AND STEEL.

,A & c 0.

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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by WILLIAM B.

EVANS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C. o :,- A. I

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}at-Co PRE Pi FACE. HAT which is most worthy of a man’s study and pbservation is his own country, yet but few of the great mass of Amer icans are well informed as to the land of their birth. There is a vague idea in the minds of all that the Union is a “great country” with regard to size as well as in other respects, but they have but a faint conception of the immenseness of the Republic. A few years ago, an English traveller, who had been impressed with the magnificent extent of our country by the fatigues of a stage coach journey across the Plains, wrote as follows concerning it, and his statement seemed to take even our own people by surprise. He said: “Yes, the Republic is a big country. In England we have no lines of sufficient length, no areas of sufficient width, to convey a just idea of its size. The State of Oregon is bigger than England; California is about the size of Spain; Texas would be larger than France, if France had won the frontier of the German Rhine. If the United States were parted into equal lots, they would make fifty two kingdoms as large as England, fourteen empires as large as France. Even the grander figure of Europe fails us when we come to measure in its lines such amplitudes as those of the United States. To wit: from Eastport to Brownsville is farther than from London to Tuat, in the Great Sahara; from Washington to Astoria is farther than from Brussels to Kars; from New York to Sani Francisco is farther than from Paris to Bagdad. Such measures seem to carry us away from the sphere of fact into the realms of magic and romance. Q 3

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PREFACE. “Again, take the length of rivers as a measurement of size. A steamboat can go ninety miles up the Thames, two hundred miles up the Seine; five hundred and fifty miles up the Rhine. In America, the Thames would be a creek, the Seine a brook, the Rhine a local stream, soon lost in a mightier flood. The Mississippi is five times longer than the Rhine; the Missouri is three times longer than the Danube; the Columbia is four times longer than the Scheldt. From the sea to Fort Snelling, the Missouri is plowed by steamers a distance of two, thousand one hundred and thirty-one miles; yet she is but the second river in the United States.

“Glancing at a map of America, we see to the north a group of lakes. Now our English notion of a lake is likely to have been derived from Coniston, Killarney, Lomond, Leman, and Garda. But these sheets of water give us no true hint of what Hiuroni and Superior are like, scarcely indeed of what Erie and Ontario are like. Coniston, Killarney, Lomond, Leman, and Garda, put together would not cover a tenth part of the surface occupied by the smallest of the five American lakes. All the waters lying in Swiss, Italian, English, Irish, Scotch, and German lakes might be poured into Michigan without making a perceptible addition to its flood. Yorkshire might’ be sunk out of sight in Erie; Ontario drowns as much land as would make two duchies equal in area to Schleswig and Holstein. Denmark proper could be washed by the waves of Huron. Many of the minor lakes in America would be counted as inland seas elsewhere; to-wit: Salt Lake, in Utah, has a surface of two thousand square miles; while that of Geneva has only three hundred and thirty; that -of Como only ninety; that of Killarney only eight. A kingd(orff like Saxony, a principality like Parina, a duchy like Coburg, if thrown in one heap into Lake Superior, might add an island to its beauty, but would be no more conspicuous in its vast expanse than one of those pretty green islets which adorn Loch Lomond. “Mountain masses are not considered by some as the strongest parts of American scenery; yet you find masses in this country which defy all measurement by such puny chains as the Pyrenees, the Apennines, and the Savoy Alps. The Alleghanies, ranging in height between 4

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PREFACE. IHelvellyn and Pilatus, run through a district equal in extent to the country lying between Ostend and Jaroslaw. The MWahsatch chain, though the name is hardly known in Europe, has a larger bulk and grandeur than the Julian Alps. The Sierra Madre, commonly called the Rocky Mountains, ranging in stature from a little below Snowdon to a trifle above Mont Blanc, extend from Mexico, through the Republic, into British America, a distance almost equal to that dividing London from Delhi.” Such are the territorial dimensions of our country, as measured by a foreigner, and that they are in no way exaggerated will be found by all who study the subject. But the greatness and interest of the Republic do not consist in its vast size. We have within our limits nearly every variety of climate known to man, and a soil capable of producing almost every product of the earth, from the stunted herbage of the frozen regions to the luxuriant fruits of the tropics. The ground is rich in mineral deposits, from the useful, but homely veins of coal, to beds of the most brilliant and valuable jewels. The earth yields us not only our food, but the rarest medicines and drugs. It pours out in streams oil for burning, gas that may be used fresh from the natural springs, salt that requires but the heat of the sun for its perfection, and beds of pure soda that cover the earth like the dust in the highways. In short, all that is needed for the preservation and comfort of animal and human life exists in this favored land in the greatest profusion. So much has the Creator done for us. Man has not been slow to take advantage of these blessings. In the comparatively short space of three hundred years the American people have become a mighty nation, increasing with a rapidity that is almost marvellous. They have built up the country on a scale of magnificence of which they may justly be proud. They have covered it with splendid cities, connected by a network of railways binding all the scattered parts into one solid whole. They have made a commerce and a system of manufactures before which the fabled wealth of Tyre sinks into insignificance. They have built up a literature which commands the respect of the world. They have illustrated their history’with deeds 5

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PREFACE. of arms not less splendid than their more peaceful achievements, and have given to the world names in every walk of life that will never die. All this have they done, and yet the mass of them are ignorant, or but imperfectly informed, 6f the magnitude and value of their achievements. It is the object of this work to present to them at a glance the actual condition of the Republic at the present day. The Author is well aware that such a tremendous undertaking can be but imperfectly accomplished in a volume of this size; yet he ventures to express the hope that he has made the statement herein presented sufficiently complete and comprehensive to be of service to the reader. The tables and other statistics in the body of the work are mainly from the latest State reports available. The Author would here express his obligations to General Francis A. Walker, the accomplished superintendent of the census of 1870, for assistance received from him in the collection of statistics.

For miore detailed information than is presented within these pages, the reader is referred to “Lippincott’s Gazetteer,” and the “New American Cyclopaedia,” to which works the Author is indebted for valuable assistance. It is hoped that the Illustrations will aid in bringing to the mind of the reader a vivid picture of the busy, restless, energetic Republic of the West, and also to render him more familiar with some of the charms of American scenery. J. D. MCC., JR. NEW YORK, November‘25th, 1871. 6

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NO. PAGI 1. Indians Viewing the Pacific Railroad……………………………Frontispiece. 2. Rapids of the St.

Lawrence………………………………………………………………….

51 3. A View on the Alleghany

Mountains………………………………………………………

59 4. A View on the Rocky

Mountains…………………………………………………………..

61 5. An American Caion in the Rocky

Mountains…………………………………………… 6. A Western Homestead………………………………………….. 76 7. View on the Hudson River, showing the Steamboat, Telegraph, and Railroad………

83 8. An Indian Village in

Winter……………………………………………………………….

103 9. Ruins of Jamestown,

Va…………………………………………. 107 10. Plymouth R o c k……………………………………………………………………………….

109 11. First Settlement of New York C i t
y………………………………………………………… 111

12. First Settlers Clearing

Land…………………………………………………………………

113 13. Indians Burning a

Prisoner………………………………………………………………..

14. Burning of Deerfield,

Mass………………………………………. 117 15. Ruins of Ticonderoga………………………………………………………………………..

128 16. Independence Hall in

1776………………………………………………………………….

131 17. Scene of the Battle of Lake

Champlain…………………………………………………… 146

18. Plain of Chalmette: Scene of the Battle of New Orleans………………………………. 148 19. An American F o r e s t………………………………………………………………………….

165 20. Lumbering in

Maine…………………………………………… 169 21.

Lumberman’s

Camp………………………………………………………………………….

172 22. City Hall, at Portland,

Maine………………………………………………….. 184 23.

Scene on the White Mountains…………………………………….,,.

191 24. State House, Concord, N.

H…………………………………………………………………

200 25. A View of Montpelier,

Vt…………………………………………………………………..

213 26. A View of Rutland,

Vt……………………………………………………………………….

216 27. Harvard University, Cambridge,

Mass……………………………………………………. 229 28.

A View of

Boston………………………………………………………………

237 29. State House, at

Boston……………………………………………………………………

239 30. Faneuil Hall, at

Boston………………………………………………….. 240 31.

Bunker Hill Monument, at

Boston………………………………………………………..

248 32. Pacific Mills, Lawrence,

Mass……………………………………………………………..

257 33. A View from Greenfield,

Mass………………………………………………………………

258 34. Coast

Fishing…………………………………………………………………………………

280 35. Narragansett Bay, R.

I………………………………………………………… 282

36. Newport, R.

I………………………………………………………………………………….

285 37. View from Mount Holyoke,

Conn………………………………….. 293 38. Yale College, New Haven,

Conn……………………………………………………………

300 39. New

Haven…………………………………………………. 306 40. A View of New York

City…………………………………………………………………..

323 41. A Scene in the Catskill

Mountains…………………………………………………………

324 7

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NO. PAG. 42. A View on the Hudson River…………………………………………………………….

329 43. Scene on Lake

George……………………………………………………………………….

330 44. The Falls of

Niagara………………………………………………………………………..

333 45. New York City in

1664………………………………………………………………………

349 46. A View of Albany, N.

Y…………………………………………………………………….

353 47. Scene on Broadway, New York C i t
y………………………………………………………. 358 48.

Scene on Fifth Avenue, New York C i t
y…………………………………………………… 360 49. A View in Central Park, New York

City…………………………………………………. 361 50. The Water Terrace in Central Park, New York

City…………………………………… 362 51. City Hall, New York City…………………………………………………………………..

366 52. Building of the Young Men’s Christian Association, New York City………………… 368 53. High Bridge, at

Harlem……………………………………………………………………..

371 54. Union Square and Washington Monument, New Yorlk City………………………….. 373 55. United States Navy Yard, Brookllyn, L. I………………………………………………..

377 56. View from West

Point……………………………………………………………….

380 57. Falls of Genesee, N.

Y……………………………………………………………………….

383 58. Oswvego, N.

Y………………………………………………………………………………….

388 59. Gathering Watermelons in New

Jersey…………………………………………………… 407 60.

Princeton College, N. J…………………………………………..

409 61. Falls of Passaic, Paterson, N.

J…………………………………………………………… 418

62. A Scene at Cape May, N.

J………………………………………………………….. 420

63. View on the Juniata. River,

Pa…………………………………………………………….

431 64. The Schuylkill, above

Philadelphia………………………………………………………..

432 65. Mount Pisgah and the Coal

Regions……………………………………………………… 433

66. Deep Cut on the Pennsylvania

Railroad…………………………………………………..441 67.

The Susquehanna, above Harri
sburg……………………………………………………… 443

68. A View of Philadelphia from

Camden…………………………………………………….. 444

69. Philadelphia from

Fairmount……………………………………………………………….

445 70. The Wissahickon, at Chestnut H i l
l……………………………………………………….. 446 71.

Philadelphia Small H o m e
s…………………………………………………………………447

72. The Ledger Building,

Philadelphia………………………………………………………..

448 73. Fairmount,

Philadelphia……………………………………………………………………

449 74. The iVissahickon,

Philadelphia…………………………………………………..450

75. The Union League Building,

Philadelphia………………………………………………. 451

76. The New Masonic Temple,

Philadelphia………………………………………………..452

77. Hemlock Glen, Fairmount Park,

Philadelphia………………………………………… 453 78.

Academy of Natural Sciences,

Philadelphia……………………………………………… 454 79.

Wissahickon New Drive, Philadelphia

4………………………………..455 80. The Schuylkill, at the Falls, Philadelphia……………………………………….456 81.

Chestnut Street Bridge,

Philadelphia………………………………………………………

457 82. A Public Fountain,

Philadelphia…………………………………………………………458

83. Independence Hall in 1871,

Philadelphia………………………………………………….459

84. A View of Pittsburg,

Pa………………………………………………………….461

85. A View of Scranton,

Pa………………………………………………………….472

86. A View of Easton,

Pa……………………………………………………………475

87. Delaware Peach

Farm……………………………………………………………………….498

88. Maryland Oyster

Fishery……………………………………………………………………505

89. A View of

Baltimore…………………………………………………………………………

518 90. Battle Monument, at

Baltimore…………………………………………………………….519

91. Scene on Baltimore

Street…………………………………………………………………..

522 92. Scene on Baltimore and Ohio

Railroad…………………………………………..525 93. The Capitol at

Washington……………………………………………………529

94. Columbia Deaf and Dumb

Institution………………………………..531 8

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NOl PAGE. 95. New Building of the Young Men’s Christian Association, Washington…………. 536 96. United States Treasury Building,

Washington…………………………………………. 546 97. United States Patent Office,

Washington………………………………………………… 549

98. Natural Tunnel,

Virginia…………………………………………………………………

561 99. Little Stony Falls,

Va………………………………………………………………………

565 100. A View of Richmond,

Va………………………………………………………………….

576 101. Mount

Vernon……………………………………………………………………………….

582 102. North Carolina Sea

Coast…………………………………………….. 598 103.

Capitol at Raleigh, N. C………………………………………….

607 104. Scene near Beaufort, S.

C…………………………………………………………………..

613 105. Rice

Fields……………………………………………………………………………………

616 106. Charleston, S.

C……………………………………………………………………………..

625 107. Falls of the Towalaga,

Georgia…………………………………………………………..

633 108. Savannah,

Georgia………………………………………………………………………….

642 109. St. John’s River,

Florida…………………………………………………………………..

651 110. St. Augustine,

Florida……………………………………………………………………..

662 111. A Bluff on the Alabama

River…………………………………………………………….

666 112. Capitol at

Montgomery…………………………………………………………………….

677 113. The Landing at

Mobile……………………………………………………………………

671’ 114. On the Shores of the

Yazoo……………………………………………………………….

682 115. Picking

Cotton………………………………………………………………..I……………

684 116. Jackson,

Miss………………………………………………………………………………..

692 117. Natchez,

Miss……………………………………………………………………………….693

1 18. A View of Vicksburg,

Miss……………………………………….. 694 119. A View of New Orleans……………………………………………………………………

698 120. Gathering Sugar

Cane……………………………………………………………………..

703 121. A Sugar

House………………………………………………………………………………

706 122. Scene on St. Charles Street, New

Orleans………………………………………………. 716 123.

Jackson Square, New

Orleans……………………………………………….I…………….

719 124. Lafayette Square, New

Orleans……………………………………………………………

722 125. On the

Gulf…………………………………………………………………………………..

732 126. Galveston,

Texas……………………………………………….. 748 127. The Alamo, San

Antonio……………………………………………………………………

750 128. Harper’s Ferry, West

Virginia……………………………………………………………

758 129. Wheeling, West

Virginia………………………………………………………………….

766 130. Nashville,

Tenn……………………………………………………………………………..

786 131. Memphis,

Tenn……………………………………………………………………………..

788 132. Mammoth Cave,

Kentucky…………………………………………………………………

797 133. Frankfort,

Kentucky………………………………………………………………………..

805 134. Louisville,

Kentucky……………………………………………………I………………….

806 135. State Capitol, Columbus,

Ohio……………………………………………………………

825 136. A View of Cincinnati,

Ohio………………………………………………………………

826 137. Scene on Fourth Street, Cincinnati,

Ohio……………………………………………….. 828 138. The Tyler Davidson Fountain, Cincinnati,

Ohio……………………………..,……….. 829 139. Scene on Superior Street, Cleveland,

Ohio………………………………………………. 833 140. Court House at Dayton,

Ohio……………………………………………………………..

835 141. State House at Indianapolis,

Ind………………………………………………………… 848

142. Evansville,

Ind…………………………………………………………………………….

850 143. New Albany,

Ind……………………………………………………………………………

85[ 144. Lafayette,

Ind……………………………………………………………………………….

853 145. State House at Springfield,

Ill……………………………………………………………..

869 146. A View of

Chicago……………………………………………………………………..

870 147. Trihune Building,

Chicago……………………………………………………….87~

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. NO.pa. PAGE. 148. Scene on Lake Street, Chicago……………………………………………………………876

149. Quincy,

Illinois………………………………………………………………..883

150. Alton,

Illinois……………………………………………………………………….

888 151. Chicago in

Flames………………………………………………………………….890

152. A Western

River…………………………………………………………………..899

153. Woodward Avenue, Detroit,

Michigan………………………………………………… 909 154.

A Copper Mine in

Wisconsin…………………………………………………………….920

155. Madison,

Wisconsin……………………………………………..,927 156.

Scene in

Milwaukee…………………………………………………………………929

157. Falls of St. Anthony,

Minn…………………………………………………………935

158. St. Paul,

Minn……………………………………………………………………………..

943 159. A Halt on the

Prairies…………………………………………………………………….945

160. Davenport,

Iowa……………………………………………………………………………954

161. Dubuque,

Iowa……………………………………………………………………………..955

162. Burlington,

Iowa……………………………………………..956 163.

Floating, Island on the Missouri

River………………………………………………….964 164. A View of St.

Louis……………………………………………………………………….970

165. Court House, at St.

Louis…………………………………………………………………972

166. St. Joseph,

Mo………………………………………………………………………..977

167. Little Rock,

Ark…………………………………………………………. 987

168. Helena,

Ark…………………………………………………………………..988

169. Indians Attacking United States Mail

Coach…………………………………………. 170. Leavenworth City,

Kansas…………………………………………………………………

999 171. Omaha Station,

Nebraska………………………………………………………….1001…….

172. Crossing the

Plains………………………………………………………………………1002

173. Omaha City,

Nebraska……………………………………………………………………..1007

174. The Palisades, Humboldt River,

Nevada………………………………………………. 1009 175.

Silver Mining,

Nevada………………………………………………………………….

1011 176. Original Big Tree,

California………………………………………………………1018

177. Hydraulic

Mining………………………………………………………………………….1024

178. San Francisco,

California…………………………………………………………………1034

179. Cape

Horn…………………………………………………………………………………..1045

180. An Oregon

Valley………………………………………………………………………

1056 181. Mount St. Elias, A l a s
ka…………………………………………1068 182. Sitka, Alaska……………………………………………………………………………….

1070 183. Scene in the Aztec

Mountains…………………………………………………………..1072

184. Buffalo

Hunting………………………………………………………………………….

1076 185. A Canion in

Colorado…………………………………………………………

079 186. Plowing on the Western

Prairies………………………………………. 1081 187. A Canion on the Rocky

Mountains………………………………………………………1087

188. Indians Hunting

Bison…………………………………………………………

1090 189. A Frontier C i t
y……………………………………………………………………..1095

190. Santa Fe, New

Mexico…………………………………………………………………..1099

191. The Tabernacle, Salt Lake C i t
y………………………………………………………..1104

192. Main Street, Salt Lake

City………………………………………………………………1106

193. A Street in Olympia, Washington

Territory……………………………………………1114 194.

Prairie Dog City,

Wyoming………………………………………………………………1117

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~195 195 2 Coats of Arms of the United States, and of each State and Territory. See Table of Contents for Folios. 23.)of Contents for Folios. 10

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CONTENTS. PART I. TilE UNIITED 8 TATE8 OF AMERICA. Description of the American Continent-Its grand divisions-North Ame rica-Dimensions and Divisions-The United States of North America -Description of the Great Republic Its dimensions and political divi sions-Its population, showing the increase since 1790-The rivers of the United States-Description of the great water system of the Re public-The Mississippi-Its wonderful history-Its wealth and peculiar ities-The Missouri River-How the Mississippi Valley is drained-The other tributaries of the “Father of Waters “-‘I-The Great Lakes of the North-Explanation of the mountain system of the United States-The wonders of the Rocky Mountains-Soil of the United States-State ment of the various qualities of soil existing in the Republic, and of their capacity for adding to the national wealth-Description of the climate of the United States, showing the peculiar features of each section of the country-Relative healthfulness of the various States, showing which is the healthiest-Description of the mineral wealth of the Republic, showing where the different minerals are found and in what quantities-The undeveloped riches of the country-Products of the soil-The animals of. the United States-A brief sketch of the American natural history-Characteristics of the population-The dis tinguishing marks of the inhabitants of the various States Table, showing the arrivals and destination of emigrants since 1820-What emigration has done for the Union-The agricultural resources of the United States List of the agricultural products, showing where each is grown, and the portion of the country to which it is best adapted Facts for producers and consumers The manufacturing interests Rapid growth and great extent of this portion of our wealth The com merce of the United States-Its vast proportions-Our internal im provements-History of the rise and growth of the canal, railroad, steamboat, and telegraph in this country-Our educational system Explanation of the American system of free schools-The Press-Its 11

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CONTENTS. importance and power-Number of newspapers and periodicals published -The postal system of the Republic-Religious denominations, showing the strength of each religious sect in the United States-Population of the leading cities of the Union Explanation of the Governmnent of the United States-A concise view of the Federal Constitution-‘T’he Executive, Legislative, and Judiciary, and their duties-Relations of the States to the General Government-Powers and limitations of the General Government-T-he Army and Navy of the Republic-‘l’heir strength Financial condition of the United States in 18O0 History of the United States-General view of the Indians of North AmncricaWho they wvere-Discovery of America by Columbus-Oth-er discoveries-Expedition of De Soto-Efforts of the French and Spaniards to settle the South-England alarmed-Raleig-lh’s colony on Roanoake Island-The settlement at Jamestown-Voyages of Captain John Smith -First Legislative Assembly in America -Introduction of African Slavery into Virginia-The Plymouth Colony-Landing of the PilgrimsInternal organization of the Colony, and its progress-Foundation of the Colony of Massachusetts Bay-Consolidation of the Massachusetts settlements-Settlement of Maine, Connecticut, and Rhode Island-Discovery of the Hudson River ‘Ihe Dutch settle New York-History of the Colony-It is captured by the English-Settlement of New Jersey and Delaware-Settlement of Pennsylvania and Maryland-The Carolinas and Georgia colonized by the En,glish Prosperity of the Colonies -Different cllaracteristics Establishment of commnon schools and colleges-Troubles with the Indians-Aggressions of the Frelnch Their success in the Mississippi Valley-They aid the Indians in their attacks upon the English-King William’s, Queen Anne’s, and King George’s wars-Capture of Louisbourg-Trouble with the French on the OhioWVashington’s journey-Military operations west of lthe MountainsBraddock’s defeat-‘;-” The Old French War” in the other ColoniesFailures of the English-A change of ministry-William Pitt-Capture of Louisburg and Fort Duquesne Death of Lord -lowe-Capture of Quebec-Expulsion of the French from Canada-The conspiracy of Pontiac-Services of the Colonists during the wars with the FrenchInjustice of Great Britain towards the Colonies-Resistance of the Americans-The unjust taxes-Further aggressions-The call for a Continental Congress-Meeting and acts of the first Congress-Suicidal policy of the British Government Thle “Boston Massacre”-The tax on tea-Destruction of tea in Boston harbor-Closing of the Port of Boston-The Colonies make common cause with Massachusetts-‘iThe second Colonial Congress-Its acts-The petition for redress-Stubbornness of the King-General Gag,e brings matters to a crisis-The conflicts at Lexington and Concord-‘l-The beginning, of the Revolutionl’he Mecklenburg declaration of Independence-Meeting of the Continental Congress-Measures of resistance-Wasl-hing’ton appointe(d to the command of the American Army-Battle of Bunker Hlill-Organization of the American Army-Siege of Bostonr-‘l’he invasion of Canada-rThe British fleet repulsed at Charleston-Vigorous measures of Congress-The 12

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CONTENTS. Declaration of Independence-Battle of Long Islanld-The British occupy New York City-Gloomy state of affairs for the Colonies-Battle of Trenton-A gleam of hope-Defeat of the British at Princeton The ” Articles of Confederation” adopted-Events of the Campaign of 1777 -Capture of Philadelphia-Battles of Germantown and BenningtonSurrender of Burgoyne’s army-The treaty with France-Great Britain’s efforts at conciliation-Too late-The winter at the Valley Forge-Arrival of the French fleet-Battle of Monmouth-Capture of Savannah by the British-Naval affairs-lThe British take Charleston, S. C.-Partisan war in the South-Gates defeated at Caminden-Battle of King’s Mountain-Greene sent to the Carolinas-Treason of Arnold-Battles of the Cowpens and Guilford Court House Washington goes after Cornwallis-Siege of Yorktown-Surrender of Cornwallis-The close of the war-Condition of the country-Organization of the Republic of the United States-Adoption of the Federal Constitution-Washiington’s two Administrations-Admission of new States-Washington retires to private life-Administration of John Adams-War with France-The Administrations of Jefferson-Political disputes Purchase of Louisiana-The affair of the Chesapeake and the Leopard-British and French outrages upon American commerce-‘The Embargo James Madison elected President-The second war with England-Its events by land and sea-The battle of New Orleans The peace of 1815-‘I’he Barbary States chastised-The Hartford Convention-Reelection of Mr. Madison-The Bank of the United States-Admission of Louisiana and.

Indiana-Mr. Monroe elected President-Admission of Mississippi, Illinois, Alabama, Maine, and Missouri into the Union-The slavery excitement-‘The “Missouri Compromise “-‘T’he “Monroe Doctrine ” John Quincy Adams elected President-The Tariff question-Administration of Andrew Jackson The National Bank question-the Nullification troubles-Firmness of the President-His opposition to the National Bank-He removes the public funds The National Debt paid Admission of Arkansas and Michigan-Election of President Van BurenThe commercial crisis of 1837-Election of President Harrison-Death of General Harrison-John Tyler becomes President-His Administration-Admnission of Texas-Jamies K. Polk elected President-The war with Mexico-Results of the war-Settlement of the Oregon question -Admission of Wisconsin-General Taylor elected President-The “Wilmot Proviso “-Discovery of gold in California-Admission of Californria into the Uniorn-Political strife-The “Compromise of 18.50”Death of General T”aylor-Mr. Filnore’s Administration-The Japan e  pedition-Election of President Pierce-‘I-The Kansas-Nebraska controversy-The Republican party-The antislavery agitation increasesEfforts to purchase Cuba-Filibustering expeditions-The Know-Nothing party-Election of President Buchanan-Admission of Minnesota -The Kansas war-The Mormon troubles-The John Brown affairThe Presidential contest of 1860

Threatening condition of public affairs-Election of President Lincoln-Secession of the Southern States -The Civil War………………………….. Pages 29 to 162 13

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CONTENTS. PART II. THE NEW ENGLAND 8TATES. MAINE. Area in square miles-Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-De scription of the topography of the State Its bays, islands, rivers, moun tains, and lakes-The woods of Maine-Their beauty and resources Description of the lumber region-The minerals of Maine-Agricultural resources of the State-Its commerce and manufactures-Internal im provements-Tlie railroads of Maine-The Common School system  Explanation of its features-Statement of the schools and colleges of the State-Its newspapers and libraries-The penal and charitable in stitutions-Religious denomninations-Financial condition of the State Explanation of the State Constitution and Governmenlt-History of Maine The visit of Gosnold-First settlement of Maine-Its early history-Period of th]e Revolution-Admission into the Union as a State-Inroads of the Rebels-Statement of troops furnished to the United States Army during the Civil War-The chief cities and towns Description of Augusta-Portland-Bangor-The story of Arnold’s march to Quebec………………………………… Pages 163 to 188 NEWV

HAMPSHIRE. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Description of the topography of the State-The White Mountains and their beauties”The lakes and rivers of thie State-The Isle of Shoals The agricultural products-Description of the soil of the State-Commerce and manu factures-Internal improvements The educational systemi-Description of the penal and charitable institutions and their present condition-Re ligious denominations-The State Government-Explanation of its va rious features-History of New Hampshire-First settlements at Dover and Portsmnouth-Trouble with the Indians-The Revolution-Enters the Union-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Concord, Manchester, Portsmouth, and Dover-Story of the burning of Dover by thle Indians……………………………… Pages 189 to 204 VERMONT.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Physical features of Vermnont-The Green MAountainis-Lake Champlain Mineral wealth Climate -Description of the soil -Agricultural products in detail Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-The Free School system-The charitable aind penal institutions-Religious denominations -Financial condition of the State -Its government and internal system History of Vermont-First settlement-Troubles with New York-The Revolutionl-Capture of Ticonderoga-Ethan Allen and 14

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CONTENTS. the Green Mountain boys-Vermont refuses the British offers-Admission into the Union-War of 18l2-15-The St. Albans affair-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of the principal citiesMontpelier-Burlington-Rutland-Bennington-The battle of Bennington-The taking of Ticonderoga……………….. Pages 205 to 221

MASSACHUSETTS. AreaPopulation in 1870 Position upon the globe-Description of the to pographical features of the State-Its islands, bays, rivers, mountains and lakes-Beauty of the scenery of Massaclhusetts-Its mineral wealth -Climate-Description of the soil-Its agricultural wealth-Commerce -The vast manufacturing system of the State-Its internal improve ments-The Free Schools of Massachusetts-A noble system of public education-Harvard University Penal and charitable institutions-Re ligious denominations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Massachusetts-Discovery-Gos nold’s Colony-Landing of the Pilgrims-Growth of the Plymouth Colony-Settlement of Massachusetts Bay-Troubles with the Indians Internal troubles-Accession of William and Mary-Consolidation of the Colonies-The Salem Witchcraft-Wars with the French and In dians-Resistance to the injustice of Great Britain-The Revolution Massachusetts enters the Union-Shays’s Rebellion-War of 1812-15 -Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Boston-An inside view of the Metropolis of New England-Its public institutions -Its characteristics, sights, habits etc.-History of the city of Boston from its settlement to the present day-Roxbury and Dorchester-Story of the Boston Massacre-Destruction of tea in Boston harbor-Charles town-Bunker Hill Monument-Battle of Bunker Hill-Cambridge Harvard University-Lowell-An inside view of the factories of Lowell -Factory life-Lynn-The shoe trade-Lawre~nce-Its factories Wor cester-Springfield-The United States Armory-Taunton-Salem Plymouth Miscellanies-Arrival of the Pilgrims at Cape Cod-‘T’he first Sabbath in New England-The first crimes in New England-Story of the Salem Witchcraft-A wonderful relation-Primitive extravagance -A fearful snow storm-The Men of “Seventy-Six “…. Pages 222
to 273 RHODE ISLAND. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe Topographical sketch of the State-Minerals-Climate-Soil and agricultural products -Commerce-Importance of Rhode Island as a manufacturing State Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and charitable in stitutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Rhode Island-Settlement by Roger Williams-Early years of the Colony-Death of King Philip Colonial history-The Revolution Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Providence-Newport-The most fashionable wa tering place in America-Early history of Newport-Seizure of General Prescott-Destruction of the Gasp6e……………….. Pages 274 to 291 .0 15

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CONTENTS. CONNECTICUT. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical features of the State-Mineral wealth of Connecticut-Climnate-De scription of thle soil and agricultural products of the State Coimmerce -Manufactures-Interesting details of the factories of Connecticut  Internal improvements-‘The Common School system of the State-A noble school fund-Yale College-Penrial and charitable institutions The system of instruction for the deaf and dumb-Religious denomiina tions-Finances of the State-Its debt and annual expenses-Explaiia tion of the State Governmrent-History of Connecticut-Dutch settle ments-‘-The English in Conrnecticut-Founding of Hartford and New Haveii-Wars with the Pequots-The affair of the Charter Oak-Colo nial history The Revolution-Troops furnished during the Civil War -Description of New Haven-Yale College and its history-Capture of New Haven by the British-IHartford-Extracts from the old laws of the city-Norwich-Bridgeport-Waterbury-New London-Norwalk -Middletown-‘I’The Blue Laws of Connecticut-The Regicides-The penalty for kissing-The Dark Day-Anmerican Independence-Election day in the olden time…………………………….. Pages 292 to 319 PART III. THE

MIDDLE 8TATES. NEW YORK. AreaPopulation in 1870 Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-‘The Hudson-The Catskills-Lake Ge6rge-Niagara Falls Long Islarid-Mineral Wealtli-Climate-Soil and productions of the State-Statement of the foreign and domestic conmmerce of New York-Manufactures-Magnificent system of internal improvements  The Erie Canal-Educational systemn-The free schools-The colleges -Newspapers and periodicals-Penal and charitable institutions-A noble system-Religious denominations Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of New York -Discoveries of Champlain and Hudson-The Dutch at Manhattan Is land( and Fort Orange-‘-The Province passes into the hands of the Eng lish-Early troubles-Injustice of the Crown-Wars with the Indians and the French-The Revolution-Controversy with Vermont settled War of 1812-15-Internal improvements begun Completion of the Erie Canal-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description and history of Albany-The city of New York-Description of it-The Me tropolis of the UnionIts palaces of trade and art-Trhe Central Park  Commercial importance of the city-T’he ferry system-Places of amusemnents-Public buildings-Schools-Scienitific, literary and bene 16

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CONTENTS. volent institutions-Prisons-Croton water-History of the city of New York-Brooklyn-The city of churches-The United States Navy Yard -Prospect Park-Buffalo-Its commercial
importance-RochesterTroy-Syracuse-Salt works-Utica-Oswego-Ancient laws of New York-Old time customs of New York City-The Negro Plot in New York-How Rochester was saved from the British………Pages 321 to 403 NEW JERSEY.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography of the State-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-The school system-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition  Explanation of the State Governmnent-History of New Jersey-It passes into the hands of the English The Revolution-Troops fur nished during the Civil War-Description of Trenton-Newark-Its manufactures-Jersey City-Paterson-Elizabeth-Camden-Battle of Trenton-Mulrder of Rev. James Caldwell-A mutiny in the Continen tal

Army……………………………………… Pages 404 to 428

PENNSYLVANIA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Topographical features of the State-Mineral wealth of Pennsylvania-Its extent and importance-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce-Manufactures of Pennsylvania-Internal im provements-The Canal system-The free schools and Colleges-The Press-Libraries-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denomni nations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Gov ernmentHistory of Pennsylvania-First settlement of the State-The grant to William Penn-Settlement by the Quakers-Philadelphia founded-Treaty with the Indians-Progress of the Colony-The Revo lution-Philadelphia occupied by the British-The whiskey insurrection -Invasion of the State during the Civil War-Battle of Gettysburg Description of Harrisburg-Philadelphia Its location-Description of the city-Its dimensions-Fairniount Park-The public buildings Markets-Schools and Colleges-Literary and scientific institutions Prisons-Hospitals and Asylums-The Press-Importance of the ma nufactures of the city-Commerce-United States Navy Yard-History of

Philadelphia-Pittsburg-Sketch of its manufaetures-T’he.,American Birmingham-Scranton-Reading-Lancaster-Erie-Easton-Old time customs in Philadelphia-Massacre of Wyoming-The sermon before the Brandywine-Battle of the Brandywine-Adam Poe’s fight with the

Indians………………………………..Pages 429 to 490 DELAWARE.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Mine rals-Climate-Soil and productions-Manufactures-Internal improve ments-Educational system-Religious denominations-Finances-Ex planation of the State Governrment-History of Delaware-First settle ment-Becomes a separate Colony-‘-The Revolution-The Civil War Description of Dover-lVilmington………………….Pages 491 to 499 2 17

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CONTENTS. PART IV. THE SOU THERN S TA TES. MARYLAND. Area Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch -Chesapeake Bay-Duck shooting-Mineral wealth of the State Climate-Soil and productions-Manufactures-Internal improvements -The new Free School system-Colleges-Newspapers and periodicals published in the State-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of Maryland-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Maryland-Settlement on Kent Island -Arrival of Lord Baltimore’s Colony-Trouble with Clayborn-Reli gious freedom guaranteed-Civil War Trinmph of the Puritans-An napolis made the capital-Baltimore settled-Wars with France-The Revolution-Sufferings of the Bay counties during the war of 1812-15 -Battles of Bladensburg, Fort McHenry and North Point-The Civil War-Invasion of the State by General Lee-Battle of Antietam-De scription of Annapolis-Baltimore City-Washington Monument Public institutions and buildings-History of Baltimore-Cumber land-Frederick City-The Baltimore Riot-Anecdote of Charles Car
roll……………………………………………. Pages 501 to 528

THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Diinensions-Explanation of the new Terri torial Government History of the District-Washington City-De scription of it The Public Buildings-The Capitol-Its magnificence without and within-The White House The Treasury building The Patent Office The General Post Office-The Navy Yard The Depart ment of Agriculture-The Smithsonian Institution The Washington Monument-Georgetown………………………….. Pages 529 to 554

VIRGINIA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Detailed description of the physical features of the State Its various divisions, rivers, mountains, etc.-The Dismal Swamp Mineral wealth of Virginia  An opportunity for capitalists The mineral springs-Agricultural pro ducts-Commerce Manufactures-Internal imnprovements-The educa tional system The University of Virginia-Penal and benevolent in stitutions-Financial condition Explanation of the State Government -History of Virginia-The settlement at Jamestown Colonial history -Introduction of slavery into the colony-Virginia sides with the King -Treaty with the CommonweaIth-Bacon’s Rebellioin-Williamsburg made the-capital Troubles with the French on the Ohio-Washling ton’s 18

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CONTENTS. mission-Resistance to the aggressions of the Crown-The Revolution -The war in Virginia-Surrender of Cornwallis Formation of the Union-War of 1812-1 5 The Southampton Massacre-The John Brown affairThe Civil War Principal cities Richmond-Description of the city-Norfolk-Portsmouth-United States Navy YardPetersburg-Alexandria-Mount Vernon ‘I’he home and tomb of Washington-Lynchburg-The first Legislative Assembly in America -Treaty between Virginia and England-Introduction of tobacco into Europe-Anecdotes of Patrick Henry-Speech of Logan Washington and the Widow Custis-Death of Washington……………Pages 555 to 594

NORTH CAROLINA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Topographical sketch of the State-Climate Soil and productions-Natural growth of North Carolina-Mineral deposits-Manufactures-Commerce-Internal improvements-Educa tional system-The free schools-University of North Carolina-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condi tion of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of North Carolina-The Colony on Roanoke Island ‘I’he grant of Charles II.-Locke’s Conlstitution-Early troubles-War with the Indians Separation of the Carolinas-The Revolution-‘i’he Mecklenburg Declaration of Independence-Battles of King’s Mountain and Guilford Court House-Cession of Tennessee to the United States-Events of the Civil War-Description of the cities of Raleigh, Wilmington, Newberne, and Charlotte-The First English colony in America-lThe Greatest American………………………………………Pages 595 to 612

SOUTH CAROLINA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Physical features of the State-The Sea Islands-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and produc tions-Commerce-Manufactures-Internal improvements-The educa tional system-The free schools The Colleges-Penal and benevolent Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of South Carolina-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of South Carolina-Settlement at Port Royal by the French-The English occupy the country-Formation of the Province of South Carolina Troubles with the Indians and Spaniards-Tl’he Revolution-Attack on Fort Moultrie repulsed-Enters the Union-The Civil War-Reconstruc tion-Description of Columbia-Charleston-Detailed description of it An incident in the life of Sergeant Jasper……………. Pages 613 to 63l GEORGIA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography of the State-Mineral wealth of Georgia-Climate-Soil and agricultural products-Commerce Manufactures-Internral improvements-Educa 19

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CONTRENTS. tional system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Georgia-First settlemnent-Severe conditions-They are withdrawn-Wars with the Spaniards-Introduction of negro slaveryGrowth of the Colony-The Revolution-Capture of Savannah-Removal of the Indian tribes-The Civil War-Description of AtlantaSavannah-The “Forest City” of the South-Augusta-Macon-Columbus-The Emnpress of

Georgia………………….. Pages 632 to 648 FLORIDA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical features of Florida-The Everglades-Climate-Description of the soil-Agri cultural products-Commerce-Manufactures-Internal improvemnents -Educational system Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Govern mentHistory of Florida-Early settlements-Florida under Spanish rule-French settlements-Troubles with the English-Florida ceded to Great Britain-It is restored to Spain-Purchased by the United States -War with the Seminoles-Florida admitted into the Union as a State -The Civil War-Reconstruction-Description of Tallahassee Pensa cola-St. Augustine-A peculiar city-Key West City….Pages 649 to 663 ALABAMA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography of the State-The Alabama

River-Soil-Climate-Agricultural products

Minerals-Manufactures-Commerce-Internal improvements-Educa tional system-Thie University of Alabama-Penal and benevolent In stitutions-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Alabama-De Soto’s expedition-Settlement of Mobile-Alabama under British rule-Indian wars-Admission of the State into the Union-The Civil War-Reconstruction-Description of Montgomery-Mobile-Battle of HorseShoe Bend……. Pages 664 to 681

MISSISSIPPI. Area Population in 1870 Position on the globe-Topography-Climate -Soil-Agricultural products-Commerce and manufactures-Educa tionral system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Financial condition  Explanation of the State Government-E-History of Mississippi First settlements-Exterinination of the Natchez Indians Organization of Mississippi Admission into the Union as a State Events of the civil war-Reconstruction-Description of the cities of Jackson, Natchez, and Vicksburg-Full account of the extermination of the Natchez Indians-Mason the outlaw………………

Pages 682 to 699 20 .0

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CONTENTS. LOUISIANA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography-Climawe -Soil and agricultural productions-Manufactures and commerce In ternal improvements-Educational systemn Penal and charitable In stitutions-Religious denoniinations Financial condition-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Louisiana-Discoveries of La Salle-Efforts to settle the Province-Law’s scheme-Settlement of New Orleans-Growth of the Colony-New Orleans in Spanish hands -Louisiana restored to France-History of the purchase of Louisiana by the United States-Admission of the State into the Union-Events of the Civil War-Reconstruction-Detailed description of the City of New Orleans-Its mixed population-The public buildings and In stitutions-The Levee-Commerce of New Orleans-Manufactures The Carnival-History of New Orleans-Battle of New Orleans Pages 700 to 730

TEXAS. AreaPopulation ill 1870-Position on the globe-Topography-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and agricultural products-Commerce and Manu factures-Internal improvemnents-Educational system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Texas -La Salle’s Expedition-His death-Settlement of Texas by the Spaniards-First struggle for Independence-The Texan Revolution The Republic of Texas-Annexation to the United States-Admission of Texas as a State-Events of the Civil War-Reconstruction-Descrip tion of the cities of Austin, Galveston, Houston, and San Antonio-The capture of the Alamo-Fannin’s Massacre………….. Pages 7-1 to 754 PART V. THE WESTERN 8 TA TE8. WEST

VIRGINIA. Area Population in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Har per’s Ferry-Climate-Mineral wealth Soil and productions-Manutfac tures and commerce-Internal improvements-Educational system Penal and charitable Institutions-Explanation of the State Government -History of West Virginia-The Civil War-Separation of the West ern counties from the State of Virginia-Description of Charleston The Kanawha Salines-Wheeling- Its manufactures-Parkersburg Border life, showing the trials and mode of life of the first settlers of tle West……………………………….

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CONTI’ENTS. TENNESSEE. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Mine ral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufac tures-Internal irnprovemnents-Educational system-Penal and chari table institutions-Financial condition-Explanation of the State Gov erninmet-History of Tennessee-First settlements-Siege of Fort London-The Revolution-North Carolina cedes Tennessee to the United States-Admitted into the Union as a State-Events of the Civil War -Description of the cities of Nashville, Memphis, and Knoxville-The boyhood of Andrew Jackson………………………… Pages 778 to 794 KENTUCKY.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch of the State Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Com merce and manufactures-Internal i’nprovements-Educational system -Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Kentucky -Early discoveries-First settlement of Kentucky-Wars with the In dians-The settlers desire a separate Governmnent-Virginia cedes Ken tucky to the United States-Admission into the Union as a State-The war of 1812-15-‘I’he Civil War-Description of Frankfort-Louisville -A beautiful city-The falls of the Ohio-Importance of the manufac tures and commerce of the city-Covington-Newport-Lexington Daniel Boone’s account of his adventures…………………. Pages 795 to 815 OHIO. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Min eral wealth-Climate-Soil and agricultural productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-Educational system-The Ohio Free Schools-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denomina tions-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State Gov ernmentHistory of Ohio-First settlements on the Ohio-Wars with the Indians-The Revolution-Cession of the NorthWest Territory Emigration to Ohio-St. Clair’s defeat-Settlement of Cincinnati-Or ganization of the Territory of Ohio-Admission of the State into the Union-The war of 1812-15-Rapid progress of the State-Troops fur nished during the Civil War-Description of Columbus-The State buildings-Cincinnati-Description of the city-Its commercial impor tance-The river trade-Manufactures-Pork packing-History of Cin cinnati-Cleveland -The Lake trade-Dayton -Toledo-Sandusky Memoirs of Simon Kenton Cincinnati in 1794……….. Pages 816 to 840 INDIANA.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Min eral wealth-Climate-Soil and agricultural productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal 22

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CONTENTS. and charitable Institutionrs-Religious denominations-Libraries and newspapers-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Indiana-Settlements of the French Missionaries-Indiana under French and British rule-The Revolution -Campaign against the British by General Rogers Clarke-Wars with the Indians-Efforts to introduce slavery-Battle of Tippecanoe-War of 1812-15-Admission of Indiana into the Unlion-Rapid growth of the State-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of the cities of Indianapolis, Evansville, Fort Wayne, New Albany, Madison, Lafayette, and Terre Haute-Interview between General Harrison and Tecumseh-Capture of Vincennes…………………… Pages 841 to 858 ILLINOIS.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-The prairies-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures-Internal Improvements-The railroad system-Edu cational system-Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denomi nations-Libraries and newspapers-Financial condition of the State Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Illinois-Early French discoveries-Settlements of the Missionaries-”The Revolution -Admission into the Union as a State-TThe war of 1812-15-The Chli cago Massacre-The Black Hawk War-The Mormon troubles-Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Springfield-Chicago Description of the city-Situation on the Lake-Raising the grade of the city-Public buildings and institutions-Commerce of Chicago The grain trade-An elevator examined-The pork trade-Inside view of a pork house-History of

Chicago-Quincy-Peoria-Galena-The lead mines-Alton-The Massacre at Chicago-Peter Cartwright and Joe

Smith……………………………..Pages 859 to 897 MICHIGAN.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-The Northern and Southern Peninsulas-Mineral wealth-The Lake Supe rior Mines-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and’ manufac tures-Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and chari table Institutions-Religious denominations-Finances-Explanation of the State Government History of Michig,an-Settlemtnents of the French Missionaries The French in the Province-Transfer to Great Britain-Conspiracy of Pontiac-Michigan Territory organized-War of 1812-15-Surrender of Detroit-Massacre at the River Raisin-Emi gration to Michigan-Admission into the Union as a State-Troops fur nished during the Civil War-Description of the cities of Lansing, De troit, Grand Rapids and Adrian-Pontiac’s effort to capture Detroit Massacre at the River Raisin………………… -Pages 898 to 917 23

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CONTENTS. WISCONSIN. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography Mineral wealth-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and charitable In stitutions-Religious denominations-Financial condition of the State -Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Wisconsin-Dis coveries of the French-The Jesuit Missionaries The Province passes into the hands of the English-Admission into the Union as a State Troops furnished during the Civil War-Description of Madison Milwaukee-‘I’he “Cream City,”-Racine-Fond du Lac-Oshkosh The oldest man in the world………………….Pages 918 to 933 MINNESOTA.

AreaPopulation-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Falls of St. Anthony-Mineral wealth-Climate-Resort for in valids-Soil and productions-Manufactures and commerce-Internal improvements-Educational system The free schools-Penal and be nevolent Institutions-Libraries and newspapers-Religious denominia tions-Financial condition of Minnesota-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Minnesota-First settled by the Jesuit Missionaries French settlements-A part of the Louisiana purchase The Fur trade-St. Paul founded-Admission of the State into the Union-Troops furnished during the Civil War-St.

Paul-Minnea polis-Winona………………………………. Pages 934 to 944 IOWA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Com merce and manufactures-Internal improvements-Educational system -Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Finan -cial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHis tory of Iowa-A part of the Louisiana purchase-Julien Dubuque The Lead Mines-‘I-The Black Hawk War-Settlement of Iowa-Ad mission into the Union as a State-I)es Moines-Davenpor;-Dubuque The Lead Mines-Burlington-Keokuk-Frontier justice. Pages 945 to 9(2 MISSOURI. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth-Clirimate-Soil and productions-Manu factures and commnerce-Internal improvements-Educational system -Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Li braries and newspapers-Financial condition of Missouri-Explanation of the State Governmnent-History of Missouri-First settled by the French-Under Spanish rule-Restored to France-Events of the 24

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CONTENTS. RevolutionA part of the Louisiana purchase-Organization as a Territory-Slavery agitation-Tihe “Missouri Compromise “-Admission into the Union as a State-The Civil War-Jefferson City-Description of St.

Louis-Rapid growth of the city-Its Public buildings and Institutions-Its commerce and manufactures-History of St. LouisKansas City-St.

Joseph-Missouri during the war of 1812-15 Pages 963 to 981 ARKANSAS.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topography-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions-Commerce and manufactures Internal improvements-Educational system Penal and charitable Institutions-Religious denominations-Fiinancial condition of the State -Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Arkansas Dis covered by De Soto-A part of the Louisiana purchase-Admission of the State into the Union-Events of the Civil War-Description of Little Rock and Helena………………………….. Pa,ges 982 to 988 KANSAS.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position on the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth Climate-Soil and productions-Internal improvemenIts-Educational system-The Kansas free schools-Penral and benevolent Institutions-Religious denominations Financial condi tion of the State Explanation of thle State Government History of Kansas-A. part of the Louisiana purchase-Made free soil by the Missouri Compromise-Organization of the Territories of Kansas and Nebraska Efforts to introduce slavery into Kansas-Struggle in Con gress-rThe Border War-Foundation of free soil settlements-Ad mission into the Union as a Free State Troops furnished during the Civil War Topeka-Leavenworth Lawrence……… Pages 989 to 1001 NEBRASKA. AreaPopulation in 1870

Position on the globe Topography-Minerals -Climate-Soil and productions-Internal irnprovements Educationial
system-Finances-Explanation of the State Governments-History of Nebraska-A part of the Louisiana purchase Admission into the Union as a State-Lincoln-The new capital-Omaha Nebraska City Pages 1001 to 1007

NEVADA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topography-Min eral wealth-The gold and silver mines of Nevada-Climnate-Internal improvements-Educational system-Finances-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Nevada-Discovery of silver-Carson City-Virginia City……………………….. Pages 1008 to 1015 25

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CONTrENTS. CALIFORNIA. AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth of California-Climate-Soil and produc tions-Commerce-Manufactures-Internal iinprovements-Education al system-Penal and charitable institutions-Religious denominations -Libraries and newspapers-Financial condition-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of California-Discovered and settled by the Spaniards-The Missions-Becomes a part of Mexico-Efforts to throw off the Mexican yoke-The American settlers take up arms The war. with Mexico-Aquisition of California-Discovery of gold-Enor mous emigration-Admission into the Union as a State-Early disor ders-The “Vigilance Committees “-Description of Sacramento-San Francisco-A peculiar city-The Sand Hills-Rapid growth of San Francisco-Prosperity of the city-Its public buildings and institutions -The Chinese Marter-Commerce of San Francisco-History of the city-San Jos6-San Francisco in 1848-9-The “Vigilance Committee” Pages 1016 to 1052 OREGON.

AreaPopulation in 1870-Position upon the globe-Topographical sketch of the State-Mineral wealth-Climate-Soil and productions Commerce-Internal improvements-Educational system-Penal and benevolent Institutions Religious denominations-Financial condition of the State-Explanation of the State GovernmentHistory of Oregon -Discovery of the Columbian River-Expedition of Lewis and Clark -Astoria-Boundary disputes with Great Britain-The United States abandon their claim Admission of Oregon into the Union as a State Description of Salem-Portland…………………..

Pages 1053 to 1062 PART VI. THE TERRI TORIES. ALASKA. I General description of the Territory-Practical value of the purchase History of Alaska-Description of Sitka………….. Pages 1065 to 1070 ARIZONA.

Topographical sketch of the Territory-Its mineral wealth-Capacity for agriculture-History of Arizona-Description of Tucson. Pages 1071 to 1074

COLORADO. Description of the physical features of Colorado-The Rocky Mountains’ -Climate-Great mineral wealth of the Territory-History of Colorado -Description of Denver City………………..Pages 1075 to 1080

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CONTENTS. DAKOTA. Topographical sketch of the Territory-Its magnificent river system Capacity for stock raising and agriculture-The Pioneer Schools-His tory of Dakota-Description of Yancton…………. Pages 1081
to 1085 IDAHO. Description of the topographical features of the Territory-Its great-min eral wealth-Capacity for agriculture-History of Idaho-Description of Boise City…………………………………

Pages 1086 to 1089 INDIAN TERRITORY. General description of the Territory-Description of the Indian inhabi tants and the system of Government-Efforts to organize the Territory Pages 1090 to 1091 MONTANA.

Topographical sketch of Montana-A delightful climate-Capacity for agriculture and stock raising-Mineral wealth-History of Montana Its rapid growth-Description of Virginia City……… Pages 1092 to 1096 NEW

MEXICO. Topographical sketch of New Mexico-Capacity of the Territory for agri culture-Stock raising-Undeveloped mineral wealth-Hostility of the Indians-History of New Mexico-Description of Santa F6. Pages 1097 to 1100

UTAH. Description of the physical features of the Territory-The mountain system-The Great Basin-The Great Salt Lake-Irrigation necessary to the production of crops-What has been done for agriculture-Mine ral resources-History of the Territory-Salt Lake City-The Mormon capital………………………………………. Pages 1101 to 1109

WASHINGTON. Topographical sketch of the Territory-The two great divisions-Climate -Agriculture Mineral resources-The lumber trade-The Columbia River-History of the Territory-Description of Olympia. Pages 1110
to 1115 WYOMING. Description of the physical features of the Territory-Agriculture-Great mineral wealth-The Pacific Railway-History of Wyoming-Descrip tion of Cheyenne…………………………….. Pages 1116 to 1118 I 27

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PART I. THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. THE Continent of America, though not discovered until a very late period in the history of the world, is the second in size of the great natural divisions of the earth.

It extends from Point Barrow (on the north), in latitude 71~ 24’ N., to Cape Froward, on the Straits of Magellan (on the south), in latitude 53~

53’ 7” S.* It is known that the extreme northern lands of America extend beyond the seventy-eighth degree of North latitude, and the islands of Terra del Fuego prolong the land two or three degrees southward of the main land; but as these form no practical portions of our great division of the globe, we shall pass them by without further discussion. The mainland, which is alone embraced in our estimate, is 10,500 English miles in length, and includes every variety of climate, soil, production, race, and natural formation known, covering as ifdoes all area of about 14,950,000 square miles. The Continent, taking this estimate as our guide, is four times larger than Europe, one-third larger than Africa, and onehalf as large as Asia, including Australia and Polynesia. Its extreme breadth, north of the Equator, is between Cape Canso, in Nova Scotia, and Cape Lookout, in Oregon, a distance of 3100 miles, and very near the forty-fifth parallel of North latitude. South of the Equator it attains its greatest breadth between * This calculation does not include the regions north of Point Barrow, or the Archipelago of Terra del Fuego. I 31

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Cape St. Roque, ill Brazil, and Cape Parina, in Peru, a distance of 3250 miles, and between the fourth and seventh parallel of South latitude. The physical features of this great Continent are among the most remarkable and interesting in the world. Constituting as it does about three-tenths of the dry land upon the surface of the globe, it is, in general, a region of great fertility. With the exception of about one-seventh, the entire Continent is susceptible of cultivation, and in its natural growths it is one of the most favored lands in the world. Its mineral resources are vast and inexhaustible, and embrace nearly every geological formation known to science. On the west side, the Continent is traversed by a vast range of mountains, ten thousand miles in length, stretching from Point Barrow on the north, to the Straits of Magellan on the south, and rearing their lofty surnnmmits far above the region of perpetual snow. The rivers, bays, and lakes of America are the most magnificent and extensive in the world, and afford commercial advantages of the highest order. The Continent consists of two great peninsulas, known as North America and South America, connected by an isthmus called Central America. The relative importance of its great divisions may be seen from the following table, in which North and Central America are counted as one division: English Square Miles. North America,………….7,400,000 South America………….. 6,500,000

Islands,……………. 150,000 Greenland, and the islands connected with it,. 900,000 Total……………14,950,000 As it is not our purpose to devote any portion of this work to the other divisions of the Continent, we pass at once to i brief consideration of the division of NORTH AMERICA.

Including Central America, this great division of the Continent lies between the sixth parallel of North latitude and the Arctic Ocean. It is bounded on the north by the Arctic Ocean, on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and South America, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its length on the Atlantic side, from Hudson’s Straits to the Florida Channel, 32

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THE UNITED STATES. following the indentations of the coast, is about 4800
miles, and fronm thence to Panama about 4500 more, making a total length of 9300 miles. On the Pacific side, the length, counting the coasts of the Gulf of California, is 10,500 miles. The north and northeast shores are reckoned at about 3000 miles, which gives a total coast line of about 22,800 miles. According to Professor De Bow, the Superintendent of the Seventh Census of the United States, North America comprises an area of 8,377,648 square miles, an estimate which exceeds that already given by us. It is subdivided by him as follows: Square Miles. ……. 3:050,398

……. 3,306,865 ……. 1,038,834 ……. 394,000 ……….. 384,000

……. 203,551 8,377,648 British America,…… United States………

Mexico………. Russian America,*….. Danish America (Greenland).

Central America,……. The country lying north of the United States, and known as British America, extends from the States to the Arctic Ocean. It is settled thickly along its southern and eastern borders, but the remainder is a vast, untamed region, too cold for colonization by Europeans, and inhabited only by a hardy race of Indians, and by a few whites engaged in the fur trade. The country along the southern and eastern borders, however, is of the greatest importance. It possesses a population of over three millions, and will compare favorably in its civilization and material prosperity with the States adjoining it. South of the United States is a vast region, nominally a Republic, but in reality a country afflicted with chronic anarchy called Mexico. Its people number nearly eight millions, and consist of a mixture of Spanish and Indians. They are but little more than half civilized, and are utterly incapable of conducting the government or developing the resources of their country, naturally one of the richest and most productive in the world. * Now a part of the United States, and known as Alaska. 3 33

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THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Is the namne given to the great and powerful Republic, occupying the central portion of Northl America, and lying between Mexico and British America. The Republic lies between latitude 240

30’ and 49~ N., and between longitude 66~ 50’ and 124~ 30’ W. It is bounded on the north by British America, and is partly separated from that country by the River Saint Lawrence, and Lakes Superior, Huron, Saint Clair, Erie, and Ontario; on the east by the Atlantic Ocean; on the south by Mexico and the Gulf of Mexico; and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. It has recently added to its territory that country formerly known as Russian America, now called Alaska, lying along the Pacific and Arctic Oceans, and between the fiftyeighth and seventy-second parallels of North latitude, and the one hundred and fortieth, and one hundred and seventieth degrees of West longitude. DIMENSIONS. This vast region covers an area of 3,306,865 square miles, and comprises nearly onehalf of North America.

Its extreme length, from Cape Cod, on the Atlantic, to the Pacific Ocean, is about 2600 miles, and its greatest breadth, from Madawaska, in Maine, to Key WVest, in Florida, is about 1600 miles. Its northern frontier line measures 3303 miles, and its southern line 1456 miles. Following the indentations of the shore, its coast line on the Atlantic is 6861 miles, on the Pacific 2281 miles, and on the Gulf-of Mexico 3467 miles, making a total coast line of 12,609 miles. The shores of the Pacific are bold and rocky, and are marked by comparatively few indentations. The principal are San Francisco Bay and the Straits of San Juan de Fuca. On the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, the shore is generally low, and deeply indented by numerous inlets, the principal of which are Passamaquoddy, Fenchman’s, Penobscot, Casco, Massachusetts, Buzzard’s, New York, Raritan, Delaware, and Chesapeake Bays, and Long Island, Pamlico, and Albemarle Sounds, on the Atlantic; and Tampa, Appalachee, Appa 34

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TIlE UNITED STATES. lachicola, Pensacola, Mobile, Black, Barataria, Atchafalaya, Vermilion, Galveston, Matagorda, Aransas, and Corpus Christi Bays, on the Gulf of Mexico. POLITICAL DIVISIONS. The Republic consists of thirty-seven States and nine Territories. These are the States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Florida, Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Kansas, Nebraska, Nevada, California, and Oregon; and the Territories of Arizona, Dacotah, Idaho, Montana, Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, Wyoming, and Washington. Besides these are the Indian Territory and Alaska. For convenience, the States are usually subdivided as follows: THE NEW ENGLAND

STATES:-Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut. 6. THE MIDDLE STATES:-New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware. 4. THIE SOUTHERN STATES:-Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas.

10. THE WESTERN STATES:-Arkansas, Tennessee, Kentucky, Ohio, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, California, Oregon, Nevada, Nebraska, West Virginia. 17. POPULATION. The following table will show the relative size and importance of the States and Territories, together with their population, and the date of their admission into the Union: 35

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86 ~~T1lE GR~EAT P,EPUBLIC. - -… - . 0)Co0)Co0) 0)0)-0)0)0)0) 0)- 0)0) 0) I . Co .0). 0)0)0)0)0) . W0)0)0) - 0) 0) 0)0) Co Co 0) Co 0) Co

Co Co 0) Co - Co 0 - Ab~out 900,000 ,-,,--,~~~~-,~~~-.,,1 ____

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I i I I . i. I: I: 1: i: i: r I: I!: i: I i c, Iz Z11 a. II i i ‘ i - i I 1 9 14 4 a I. b, I

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THE UTNITED STATES. RIVERS. The topographical features of the United States are varied and interesting, consisting of immense chains of mountains, numerous rivers, bays, and lakes, and vast plains inhabited only by savages and wild beasts. The majority of the bays along its coasts are the outlets of the great rivers of the Republic. These rivers may be divided into four distinct classes, viz: I. The Mississippi and its tributaries. II. The rivers which rise in the Alleghany chain and flow into the Atlantic Ocean. III. The rivers rising in the Southern States, and flowing into the Gulf of Mexico. IV. The rivers which flow into the Pacific Ocean. The rivers of the first class are the Mississippi, Missouri, Wiscolisin, Iowa, Illinois, Ohio, Yazoo, Minnesota, Des Moines, Arkansas, and Red. Those of the second class are the Penobscot, Kennebec, Connecticut, Hudson, Delaware, Susquehanna, Potomac, James, Chowan, Roanoke, Pamlico or Tar, Neuse, Cape Fear, Great Pedee, Santee, Savannah, and Altamaha. Those of the third class are the Appalachicola, Mobile, Sabine, Trinity, Brazosi Colorado, and Rio Grande. Those of the fourth class are the Columbia, San Joaquin, and the great Colorado of tile WVest, the last of which flows into the Gulf of California. THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER

Is the most important stream in the United States, and, together with its main branch, the Missouri, is the longest in the world. Its name is derived from an Indian word, signifying “The Gret Father of Waters.” The Mississippi proper is the smaller branch (the Missouri reaching farther back into the interior), and it is somewhat singular that it should have given its name to the whole stream. It rises in Itasca Lake, in the State of Minnesota, in a region known as the Hauteurs de Terre, 1680 feet above tide level, in latitude 47~ 10’ N., and longitude 94~ 55t W. From this point it flows in a generally southward direction, emptying into the Gulf of Mexico in latitude 29~ N. Its total length, from its source to its mouth, is estimated at 2986 miles. 37

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The main branch is called the Missouri River above the point of its junction with the smaller branch. The two rivers unite a short distance above the city of St. Louis. Under the present heading it is our purpose to treat of the Mississippi proper, reserving the Missouri for discussion farther on. The Mississippi constitutes the great centre of a gigantic system of rivers, all of which unite in one grand channel and empty their waters into the Gulf. The area drained by them comprises a very large portion of the interior of North America. The tributaries of the great river find their way to it through rich and populous States, and between its source and its mouth it collects all the waters (with the single exception of those rivers flowing directly into the Gulf) of the immense region lying between the Alleghany and the Rocky Mountains. This region is usually known as the Mississippi Valley. Its southern boundary is the Gulf, and its northern limit the high hills in which rise the streams flowing into the Arctic Ocean and the lakes of British America.

According to Charles Ellet, this region covers an area of 1,226,600 square miles, above the mouth of the Red River. The river, with its tributaries reaching far back into the neighboring States and Territories, furnishes a system of inland navigation unequalled by any in the world. Steamers ascend the Mississippi itself from its mouth to the Falls of St. Anthony, ini Minnesota, about 2200 miles, and above the falls the river is navigable for a considerable distance. In 1858 a steamboat succeeded in ascending the stream to near the forty-ninth degree of north latitude. The Missouri is navigable to the foot of the Rocky Mountains; the Ohio, to its head, at Pittsburg, Pennsylvania; and the Arkansas and the Red, each for more than 1000 miles. By means of the Cumberland and Tennessee Rivers, the mountains of East Tennessee have water transportation to the Gulf; and the Illinois River steamers penetrate to the country just back of Lake Michigan. These rivers are all more or less crowded with steamers and other craft, plying a trade in comparison with which the fabled wealth of Tyre sinks into insignificance. Numerous other branches of less extent empty into the main river, all of which are navigable to a greater or less degree. Below the mouth of the Red River, the main stream is divided into numerous branches, which are called bayous. Some of these, after pursuing an erratic course, find their way back to the Mississippi, while others 38

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THlE UNITED STATES. follow an independent course to the Gulf. The most important of these bayous is the Atchafalaya. The country lying between this stream (after its departure from the great river), the Mississippi) and the Gulf, is known as the Delta of the Mississippi, The Delta is about 200 miles in length, with an average width of 75 miles. It comprises an area of 15,000 square miles, and is conmposed entirely of alluvion, the depth of which is estimated at 1000 feet. “The debris carried along with the flood is principally deposited near the borders of the stream, the necessary result being that these portions have been raised to a much higher level than the adjoining lands. In some places the slope is as much as eighteen feet in a distance of a few miles. The interior consists of vast swamps covered with trees, of which the tops only are visible during the floods. The river, for almost fifty miles from its mouth, runs nearly parallel with the Gulf of Mexico, from which it is separated at particular places by an embankment only half a mile across.” The alluvion plain extends above the Delta to a formnation called the Chains, 30 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, a distance estimated at a little over 500 miles.

The average breadth of this plain, which has been formed by the river itself, is about fifty miles, and its total area, including the Delta, about 31,200 square miles. Its height, at its northern extremity, according to Prof. Charles Ellet, jr., is 275 feet above the level of the sea. It descends this plain to the Gulf at the rate of about eight inches per mile. Its average descent along its entire course is about six inches to the mile. The river is very tortuous, especially after passing the mouth of the Ohio. Its curves are immense, often traversing a distance of twentyfive or thirty miles, in a half circle, around a point of land only a mile, or half a mile in width. Sometimes, during the heavy freshets, the stream breaks through the narrow tongue of land, forming a “cutoff,” which frequently becomes a new and permanent channel, leaving the old bed a “lake,” as it is called by the boatmen. But for the height of the banks, and the great depth of the river, the formatiou of these “cutoffs” would be quite frequent, and the stream would be constantly changing its course.

Attempts to form “cutoffs” by artificial means have generally failed. The river is remarkable for the constancy with which it maintains its average breadth of about 3000 feet. It rarely exceeds or falls short of this breadth except in the curves, which frequently broaden to near a mile and a quarter. The current is sluggish, except at high water, its depth at ordinary stages 39

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. being 75 feet at the head of the plain we have described, and 120 feet at its foot. Were the stream straighter, its current, which is now checked by the bends, would no doubt be too swift for navigation, and commerce would suffer. “One of the most important facts in regard to the Mississippi is, that it flows from north to south.

A river that runs east or west has no variety of climate or productions from its source to its mouth. The trapper and husbandman descending the’Father of Waters,’ constantly meet with a change of climate; they take with them their furs and cereal grains, the products of the North, to exchange for the sugar and tropical fruits that are gathered on the banks below. Again, the floods produced by winter snows and spring rains cannot be simultaneously discharged. The course of the stream being from north to south, spring advances in a reverse direction, and releases in succession the waters of the lower valley, then of the middle section, and finally the remote sources of the Mississippi and its tributaries. It is a remarkable fact that the waters from this last-named region do not reach the Delta until upwards of a month after the inundation there has been abating. The swell usually commences toward the end of February, and continues to rise by unequal diurnal accretions till the 1st of June, when it again begins to subside. No experience will enable a person to anticipate, with any approach to certainty, the elevation of the flood in any given year. In some seasons the waters do not rise above their channels; in others, the entire lower valley of the Mississippi is submerged. Embankments, called levees, have been raised from five to ten feet high on both sides of the stream, extending many miles above and below New Orleans. By this means the river is restrained within its proper limits, except at the greatest freshets, when the waters sometimes break over, causing great destructi(on of property, and even loss of life. The average height of tlhe flood, from the Delta to the junction of the Missoari, is about 15 feet; at the mouth of the latter river it is 25
feet; below the entrance of the Ohio, the rise is often 50 feet; at Natchez, it seldom exceeds 30 feet; and at New Orleans is about 12 feet.

This diminution is supposed to result from the drainage through the Atchafalaya, Bayou La Fourehe, and other channels breaking from the lower part of the river to the Gulf of Mexico. The flood often carries away large masses of earth with trees, which frequently become embedded in the mud at one end, while the other floats near the surface, forming snags and( sawyers.” These snags are very dangerous to steamers navigating

Lippincott’s Gazetteer. 40

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THE UNITED STATES. the river, and formerly caused many terrible accidents.

Recently they have been removed to a great extent by snag-boats and improved machinery. The Mississippi empties itself into the Gulf through several mouths, which are termed Passes. The navigation is here very seriously obstructed by numerous bars, formed by the gradual deposit of the sediment with which the water is heavily charged. These render it impossible for vessels of the largest class to reach New Orleans. Over these bars there is a depth of water, varying greatly at different times, and often measuring only fifteen feet. Steam tugs can force vessels drawing two or three feet more than the actual depth, through the soft mud of the river bed. Repeated efforts have been made to deepen the passes by dredging, but the channel has filled up again so rapidly as to make all such efforts futile. It was once attempted to deepen the South West Pass (the principal mouth) by driving piles along each side. It was thought that by thus confining the stream within a limited width, it would of itself excavate a deep channel. The effect, however, was to force the bulk of the flow through another mouth called Pass a l’Outre, which for the time became a better channel than the South \West Pass. The navigation of the Upper Mississippi is broken in several places by falls and rapids, of which the principal are the Falls of St. Anthony, above St. Paul, Minnesota.* The Mississippi River was discovered by Hernando de Soto, in June 1541. He reached it, it is supposed, at a point not far below the present town of Helena in Arkansas. In 1673, Marquette and Jolliet descended the stream to within three days’ journey of its mouth; and in 1682, La Salle passed through one of its mouths to the Gulf, and took possession of the country along its shores, in the name of the King of France. In 1699, Iberville built a fort on the river; in 1703, a settlement was made on the Yazoo, a tributary, and called St. Peter’s; and in 1718, the city of New Orleans was laid out. The levees of the lower Mississippi were begun in that year, and finished in front of New Orleans about 1728. The subject of the free navigation of the river occupied the earliest attention of the United States, and was the principal cause of the acquisition of I,o6uisiana, by purchase from France. The battle of New Orleans (as it is called) was fought on its banks on the 8th of January 1815. During * The prominent points along the river will be described in the chapters relating to the States. 41 4

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the late war, the Confederates undertook to close the navigation of the river, and succeeded in doing so for more than two years, when the control of it was wrested from them by the Union forces. A number of severe engagements were fought on its banks, the principal of which were the battle of Belmont, in Missouri, and the conflicts at Island No. 10, Fort Pillow, New Madrid, Memphis, Vicksburg, Port Hudson, Grand Gulf, Baton Rouge, and Forts Jackson and St. Philip below New Orleans. The principal tributaries of the Mississippi are, on the east, the Wisconsin, Illinois, Ohio, and Yazoo; on the west, the Minnesota, Des Moines, Missouri, Arkansas, and Red Rivers. The total value of the steamboats engaged in trade on the Mississippi and its tributaries, is estimated at over $6,000,000. THE MISSOURI -RIVER. Though commonly regarded as the principal tributary of the Mississippi, the Missouri is in reality the main stream, since it is longer and of greater volume than the other river. It derives its name from an Indian word signifying “Mud River.” It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in the Territory of Montana, in latitude 45~

N., longitude 110~ 30’ W. The,springs in which it has its source are not more than a mile distant from the headwaters of the great Columbia River, which flows into the Pacific Ocean. The Missouri proper begins at the confluence of three small streams of about equal length-the Jefferson’s, Madison’s, and Gallatin’swhich run nearly parallel to each other. For the first 500 miles of its course, the Missouri flows nearly north, then turning slightly to the E. N. E., it continues in that direction until it is joined by the White Earth River, in latitude 480 20’ N. It then bends to the southeast, and continues in that general direction until it joins the Mississippi, near St. Louis. Four hundred and eleven miles from its source, the river passes through what is called “The Gates of the Rocky Mountains.” This pass is one of the most remarkable on the Continent. For nearly six miles the rocks rise perpendicularly from the water’s edge to a height of 1200 feet. The river is confined to a width of only one hundred and fifty yards, and for the first three miles there is only one point on which a man could obtain a foothold between the rocks and the water. One hundred and ten miles below the “Gates” are the “Great Falls of the Missouri,” which, after those of the Niagara, are the most magnifi 42 6

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THE IUNITED STATES. cent in America. These falls consist of four cataracts, respectively of 26, 47, 19, and 87 feet perpendicular descent, separated by rapids. They extend for a length of sixteen and a half miles, and the total descent in that distance is 357 feet. The falls are 2575
miles above the mouth of the river, which is navigable to them, though steamers do not usually ascend higher than the mouth of the Yellow Stone River. The Missouri is said to be 3096 miles long from its mouth to its source, though it is believed that this estimate is a little too large.

Add to this the length of the lower Mississippi, 1253 miles, and the total distance from the Gulf to the source of the Missouri, is 4349 miles-making it the longest stream in the world. It is generally turbid and swift, and upon entering the Mississippi, pours a dense volume of mud into that until then clear stream, and forever changes its hue. At the confluence of the two rivers, the water of the Mississippi refuses to mingle with that of its muddy rival, and the current of the Missouri may be easily distinguished for some distance below. There is no important obstacle to navigation below the Great Falls, except that during the long hot summers the water is apt to be too low for any but the smallest steamers, owing to the fact that in its upper course the river passes through an open, dry country, where it is subject to excessive evaporation. Below the Falls it is bordered by a narrow alluvial valley, very fertile, and capable of being highly cultivated. Back of this valley lie extensive prairies. The river is half a mile wide at its mouth, and is in some places much wider.

It receives all the great rivers rising on the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, with the single exception of the Arkansas River, and the majority of the streams between its own bed and the Mississippi. For the most part it flows through a savage or thinly settled region, and has but few important cities or towns on its banks. The principal of these are Omaha City, in Nebraska, Atchison and beavenworth, in Kansas, and St.

Joseph, Kansas City, Lexington, Booneville, Jefferson City, and St.

Charles, in Missouri. Its principal tributaries are the Yellow Stone, Little Missouri, Big Cheyenne, (greater) White Earth, Ni-obrarah, Platte or Nebraska, Kansas and Osage, on the right; and the Milk, Dacotah, Big Sioux, Little Sioux, and Grand, on the left. These streams, with the Missouri, drain the entire country north of St. Louis, and between the Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains-an area of 519,400 square miles. 43

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TiE GREAT REPUBLIC. THE OHIIO RIVER Is the first great tributary of the Mississippi, flowing into it below the mouth of the Missouri. It was called by the early French settlers La Belle Riviere (the beautiful river), and its Indian name is said to have a similar meaning. It is noted for the uniform smoothness of its current, and the beauty of the valley through which it flows. It is formed by the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela Rivers, at Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. It flows in a generally W. S. W. direction, separating the States of West Virginia and Kentucky from Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, and empties into the Mississippi at Cairo, Illinois, 1216 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The total length of the Ohio is 950 miles. The length of the valley through which it flows is only 614 miles, the windings of the river making up the difference. Its average breadth is a little over 600 yards. Its elevation at Pittsburg is 680 feet above the level of the sea, at Cincinnati, 414
feet, and at Cairo, 324 feet, giving an average descent of about 5 inches to the mile. The current is placid and uniform, having a medium force of about 3 miles an hour. Lilie all the western rivers, it is subject to great variations of depth. In the winter and spring it is very high, the spring rise being sometimes as great as 60 feet; and in the summer it is so low that it may be forded in many places above Cincinnati. The writer, when a lad, has frequently waded from the Virginia to the Ohio shore. At high water, steamers of the first class ascend to Pittsburg, but at low water only the lightest draft vessels can navigate it, and even these do so at a constant risk of running on a sand bar, and being compelled to remain there until the late summer and fall rains swell the stream again to an extent sufficient to float them. At Louisville, Kentucky, the only falls of the river occur. The descent is here about 2221 feet in two miles. The current is very swift, but in high waterfirst-class steamers pass over the rapids. A canal has been cut around them to the river below, by means of which the obstruction they present to navigation has been partly overcome. Formerly the river trade was most important and extensive. Of late years, however, it has been very much reduced by the competition of the railroads, but is still immense. The Ohio, for the greater part of its course, flows through a narrow, but beautiful valley.

The hills, from two hundred to three hundred feet high, are covered with an almost continuous forest of a dark rich green hue, and come down so close to the water that at 44

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THE UNITED STATES. times they seem to shut it in entirely. Though beautiful, the scenery is monotonous, and is rather tame. The river contains fully one hundred islands, some of which are exceedingly valuable and beautiful. There are also a number of ” Tow Heads,” as they are called-small sandy islands, covered with willows, and utterly barren.

Below Louisville the country becomes flatter, and by the time the Mississippi is reached, the hills have entirely disappeared. The valley of the Ohio is exceedingly fertile, and is rich in various kinds of minerals.

Its principal tributaries are the Muskingum, Scioto, Miami, and Wabash, on the right, and the Great Kanawha, Big Sandy, Green,’ Kentucky, Cumberland, and Tennessee, on the left. The most importanit are the WVabash, Cumberland, and Tennessee, the last of which is the largest. The Tennessee and its tributaries reach far back into the mountains of that State and Virginia, and the headwaters of the Alleghany rise in the southern part of the State of New York and in Potter County, Pennsylvania. Between them and the waters which flow into the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Chesapeake Bay, there is only a slight elevation, and a distance of but a few acres.

The area drained by the Ohio and its tributaries is about 200,000 square miles. The country through which the Ohio flows is a prosperous agricultural region, and a number of large and thriving cities and towns are located on its banks. Its various prominent features will be noticed in other portions of this work. THE ARKANSAS RIVER Is the next important tributary of the Mississippi below the mouth of the Ohio. Next to the Missouri, it is the longest affluent of the great river. It rises in the Rocky Mountains near the centre of Colorado, and flows easterly for several hundred miles, after which it turns to the southeast and continues in that general direction until it reaches the Mississippi, in latitude 30~ 54’ N., longitude 91~ 10’ W. It enters Arkansas at Fort Smith, on the western frontier, and divides the State into two nearly equal portions. In the upper part of its course it flows through vast sterile plains, but after entering the State which bears its name, continues its way through a region of considerable fertility. It is 2000 miles long from its source to its mouth, and is not obstructed by rapids or falls. It varies in width from three furlongs to half a mile. Its current is turbid and sluggish.

The difference in the height of the water in the 45

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. floods and the dry seasons is about 25 feet. For the greater part of the year it is navigable by steamers for a distance of 800
miles from its mouth. The most important town on the river is Little Rock, the the capital of the State. The last important tributary of the Mississippi is THE RED RIVER. This stream is formed by the confluence of two principal branches, of which the southern and larger rises in New Mexico, a little beyond the western boundary of Texas, in latitude 34~ 42’

N., longitude 103~ 7t 101” W.; the northern in Texas, in latitude 35~ 35’

3” N., longitude 101~ 55’ W. These two branches unite in latitude 34~ 30’

N., longitude 100~ W., in the State of Texas, and constitute the main river, which then flows nearly due east, forming the boundary between the Indian Territory and Texas. Upon reaching the Arkansas line, it passes into that State to Fulton, near the border, when it bends to the south and enters Louisiana. Then turning to the southeast, it flows across the last named State and empties into the Mississippi, 341 miles above the Gulf of Mexico. Its length, including the South Fork, is estimated by Colonel Marcy, U.S. A., by whom the river was explored, at 2100 miles-the main stream being 1200 miles long. According to this authority, the South, or main, Fork, rises in the fissures of an elevated and sterile plain, called the Llano Estacado, at an altitude of 2450 feet above the sea. For the first sixty miles the sides of the river rise from 500 to 800 feet so directly from the water that the exploring party were obliged to pass up through the channel of the stream. “After leaving the Llano Estacado,”

says Colonel Marcy, “the river flows through an arid prairie country, almost cntirely destitute of trees, over a broad bed of light shifting sands, for a distance of some 500 miles, followinig its sinuosities. It then enters a country covered with gigantic forest trees, growing upon a soil of the most preeminent fertility; here the borders contract, and the water for a great portion of the year washes both banks, carrying the loose alluvium from one side, and depositing it on the other, in such a manner as to produce constant changes in the channel, and to render navigation difficult. This character continues throughout the remainder of its course to the Delta of the Mississippi; and in this section it is subject to heavy inundations, which often flood the bottoms to such 46

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THE UNITED STATES. a degree as to destroy the crops, and occasionally, on subsiding, leaving a deposit of white sand, rendering the soil barren and worthless.” Shortly after leaving its sources, the South Fork passes through a vast bed of gypsum for a distance of 100 miles, which gives to its waters an intensely bitter and unpleasant taste, causing them rather to augment than diminish thirst. The river is navigable during the greater part of the year to Shrevepl)ort, 500 miles from its mouth. Small steamers can ascend about 300 miles farther in high water. About 30 miles above Shreveport is an immense collection of rubbish known as the “Great Raft,”

which forms the principal obstacle to the navigation of the upper river.

It consists of driftwood and trees, which have been brought down for hundreds of miles by the current, and lodged here. This raft obstructs the channel for a distance of seventy miles, and for a considerable portion of the year causes the river to overflow the country along its banks. In 1834-35 it was removed by the Government of the United States at a cost of $300,000, but a new raft has formed since then. In very high water small steamers pass around it. The principal tributaries of the Red River are the Little Washita and Big Washita. The other rivers, which are national in character-by which we mean not lying entirely or for the greater part in one particular State or Territory of the Union-are the Rio Grande, the Great Colorado of the West, the Columbia, and the St. Lawrence, the first and last of which form a portion of the boundaries of the Republic. THE

RIO GRANDE Rises in the Rocky Mountains, in the Territory of New Mexico, near latitude 38~0 N., and longitude 106~ 30’ W. Its course is at first southeast, then E. S. E., and finally nearly east. It forms the boundary between the State of Texas and the Republic of Mexico, and empties into the Gulf of Mexico, near latitude 25~ N., and longitude 97~ W. It is 1800
miles long, and is for the most part very shallow. Sand bars are numerous and render the stream almost unfit for navigation. Small steamers have succeeded in reaching Kingsbury’s Rapids, about 450 miles from the Gulf.

About 900 miles from its mouth the river is only three or four feet deep.

This point is called the “Grand Indian Crossing,” because the Comanche and 47

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Apachee Indians ford the stream here in their incursions from Texas into Mexico. The principal town on the river is Brownsville, 40 miles from its mouth, and opposite the Mexican city of Mattamoras. THE COLORADO RIVER, Or, as it is sometimes called, the Great Colorado of the West, to distinguish it from the Colorado River, of Texas, rises in latitude 44~ N., in Idaho Territory, and, flowing through Utah Territory, and along the borders of Nevada, California, and Arizona, empties into the Gulf of California, near latitude 32~ 30’ N. From its source to the 36th parallel of North latitude, where it is joined by the Grand and Little Colorado Rivers, it is known as the Green River. It has several small tributaries between its source and the Great South Pass. At this pass, it receives the Big Sandy Creek, at an elevation of 7489 feet above the sea. Just on the other side of the mountains are the Wind and Sweetwater Rivers, two of the principal tributaries of the Upper Missouri.

From the South Pass, the Colorado flows in a generally southwest direction to its mouth. It is about 1200 miles long, and, with the exception of the Columbia, is the most important stream west of the Rocky Mountains, but, in spite of its great length, the volume of water which it discharges is comparatively small. “About 490 miles above its mouth commences the great defile in the mountains called the Black Canon, 25 miles long, through which the river has forced its way. The banks in many places are very precipitous, from 1000 to 1500 feet high, and for a long distance the river is unapproachable. A steamboat under the command of Lieut. Ives, U.S. Topographical Engineers, ascended the stream early in 1858, and passing a portion of the great cation reached the head of navigation at the head of Virgen River. Few obstacles except shifting sand bars were met on the voyage. The exploiltions of Lieut. Ives, who traversed the valley of thie river from its mouth to latitude 36~ N., and the greater part of the regions along latitude 35~ and 36~ as far east as the Rio Grande, and the previous reconnoissances connected with the surveys for a railway to the Pacific, have made known interesting facts connected with the region watered by the Colorado. In its valley is found a large extent of fertile bottom land, easily cultivated by artificial irrigation. This valley varies in width from three to eight miles. The greater part of it is covered with timber, chiefly cottonwood and mezquit. Other portions are cultivated by the nu 48

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THE UNITED STATES. merous trib)es of Indians who live along its banks, affording them an abundance of wheat, maize, melons, beans, squashes, etc.

Cotton is also cultivated by such of the Pueblo Indians as are acquainted with the art of weaving. Some portions of the country are uninhabitable; others are rich in silver, copper, and lead, besides containing gold and mercury in small quantities. According to an estimate made by t)he U. S.

officers who have explored the Colorado, there are about 700 square miles of arable land between the mouth of the Gila and the 35th parallel of North latitude. After receiving the Gila, the Colorado takes a sudden turn westward, forcing its way through a chain of rocky hills, 70 feet high, and about 350 yards inqength. In this passage it is about 600 feet wide, but soon expands to 1200 feet, which it retains. After sweeping around 7
or 8 miles, it assumes a south direction, and with a very tortuous course of nearly 160 miles reaches the Gulf of California. The bottom lands are here from 4 to 5 miles wide, and covered with a thick forest. On a rocky eminence at the junction with the Gila stands Fort Yuma. Near the fort are the remains of the buildings of the old Spanish Mission established here in the early part of the last century, and in the valley are traces of irrigating canals, which show that it has once been cultivated.” * The average depth of water between Fort Yuma and the Gulf of California is 8
feet. Spring tides rise 25 or 30 feet, and neap tides 10 feet. There is regular communication by means of small steamers between Fort Yuma and the mouth of the river. At low water there is a draught of 4 feet at the Fort, and in high water 13 feet. The channel at the mouth of the river is continually changing, and has been known to shift from one bank to another in the course of a single night. There is also a heavy tidal wave at its mouth, which renders it difficult and dangerous for any but the lightest draught steamers to enter the stream. When the freshets occur, the river overflows its banks, submerges a part of the California*Desert, and fills up several basins, and what is known as New River. This water is left in the basins and New River when the main stream returns to its proper channel, and continues in them for about two years, when it is absorbed by the soil, or dried up by the sun. The mouth of the Colorado was discovered in the year 1540, by Fernando Alarchon, who undertook a voyage to the Gulf of California, by order of the Viceroy of Spain. Ile described it as “a very mighty river, which ran with so great a fury of stream that we could * Appleton’s Cyclopsedia, vol. v. p. 502. 4 49

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. hardly sail against it.” He sent an expedition, consisting of two boats, some distance up the river. In 1700, a Mission was established by Father Kino near the site of the present Fort Yuma, at the mouth of the Gila. The name of the Colorado signifies “the Red River,”

its waters being stained by the red earth along its course. Its principal tributaries are the Grand, San Juan, White, Little Colorado, Virgen, WVilliams, and Gila-Rivers. The Mohave was formerly supposed to be a tributary, but is now known to empty into Soda Lake, in California. THE

COLUMBIA RIVER Is the principal body of water flowing into the Pacific Ocean from the Continent of America. It rises in a small lake on the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, about latitude 50~ N., longitude 116~ W. Its first course is towards the northwest, along the base of the Rocky MIountains, until it is joined by its most northern tributary, in about 53~ 30’ N. latitude, after which it flows in a southerly direction to the 46th parallel. From this point to the Pacific it runs due west, forming the boundary between the State of Oregon and Washington Territory.

It is extremely tortuous between the 46th and 48th parallels of North latitude. This is the case until Fort Wallawalla is reached. It is very rapid, and frequently passes through mountain gorges and over falls. The tide ascends to the foot of the Cascades, 140 miles from the sea. The Cascades are a series of rapids caused by the passage of the river through the Cascade range of mountains. Between each of the rapids there is an unbroken stretch of the river for about 25 or 30 miles. Steamers ply on the lower river, on the clear waters between the Cascades, and for some distance above the last fall. Passengers and freights are carried around the falls by railroad. Vessels of 200 or 300 tons burthen navigate the stream to the foot of the Cascades. For 30 miles from its mouth, thl Columbia forms a splendid bay from 3 to 7 miles in breadth, through which it discharges its waters into the Pacific. There is about 20 feet water on the bar at its mouth, but the depth of the channel is 24 feet. The principal tributaries of the Columbia are the Lewis and Clark Forks, which, uniting, form the main river, the McGillivray’s, or Flat Bow River, Okonagan, Fall River, Wallawalla, and Willamette. The Lewis Fork is sometimes called the Snake River, and the Clark Fork, the Flathead River.

The total length of the Columbia, from its source to the sea, is about 1200 miles. 50

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TIHE UNITED’) ST’I’ATES. IAPIDS OF TIIE ST. LAWPRiE1 C]]. THE SAINT

LAWRENCE RIVER Forms a portion of the boundary between the United States and the Canadas, and though washing the shores of the Union for but a part of its course, cannot be passed over in this chapter. Some geograpliers, in consequence of its forming the outlet of the chain of lakes upon the northern frontier of the Union, regard it as commencing at the source of the St. Louis, which rises in Minnesota and flows into Lake Superior.

Viewed in this light, it flows thlroug,h the great lakes, and its total length from the head of the St. Louis to the Giilf of St. Lawrence, would be 2200 miles. its course to the head of LJake Erie would be in a generally southeast direction; and from the head of Lake Erie to the sea, in a generally northeast direction. Viewing it in this light, we must regard the Ste. Marie, between Lakes Huron and Superior; the St. Clair and Detroit, between Lakes Huron and Erie; and the Niagara, between Lakes Erie and Ontario, as forming parts of the St. Lawrence. By the St. Lawrence Ptiver, however, is most commonly meant that portion of it lyilig, between Lake Ontario and the Gulf of St Lawrence. This constitutes a large river 750 miles long, having an average breadth of half a mile, and i) I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. navigable for steamers to the Gulf. Ships of the line ascend to Quebec, and vessels of 600 tons to Montreal, in Canada. Above Montreal the navigation is interrupted by numerous rapids, around which a canal has been cut. The river forms the boundary of the United States from the foot of Lake Ontario to the extreme northwestern corner of the State of New York. Ogdensburg and Cape Vincent are the principal American towns on its banks. LAKES. The principal lakes of the United States, are Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie, Ontario, and Champlain, lying along the northern frontier, and the Great Salt Lake, in Utah Territory. LAKE

SUPERIOR Is the largest body of fresh water in the world, and the principal of the chain of great lakes extending along the northern boundary of the United States. It lies between latitude 46~ 30’ and 49~

N., and longitude 84~ 50’ and 92~ 10’ W. It forms a species of crescent, with its convexity on the north, and its concavity on the south. Its greatest length, from east to west, measured through the curve, is 420
miles, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, 160 miles. The total length of its coast line is about 1750 miles. It covers an area estimated at 32,000 square miles. It is 630 feet above the level of the sea, and has an average depth of one thousand feet. Its shape is very irregular. It is very wide at its centre, but narrows slightly towards its eastern end, and very much towards its western end. The shore on the north side is bold and rocky, and consists of almost continuous ranges of cliffs, which rise to a height varying from 300 to 1500 feet. The south shore is flat and sandy, as a general rule, but near the eastern side is broken byflimnestone ridges, which rise to a height of near 300 feet, in strange and fantastic forms, worn into numerous caverns. These have been cut by the action of the great waves, especially during the season of the floating ice, and have been colored by the continual drippings of mineral substances. From the earliest times they have been known as the “Pictured Rocks.” They lie to the east of Point Keweenaw, and form one of the most wonderful of the natural curiosities of the New World. Islands are very numerous towards the south and north shores, but the centre of the lake is free from them.

The islands towards the south 52

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THE UNITED STATES. are generally small, but those along the north shlore are often of coInsiderable size. The largest is Isle Royal, which is about 40 miles long, and 7 or 8 miles wide. Its hills rise to a height of 400
feet, with fine bold shores on the north, and several excellent bays on the south. Near the western end of the lake is a rocky, forest-coveredl group, called the Apostles’ Islands. They are exceedingly picturesque in appearance, and formn a prominent and interesting portion of the scenery of the lake. On the extreme southwestern end of the largest, is La Pointe, a famous fur trading post, and well known as the principal rendezvous for the hardy adventurers of the lake region. Lake Superior receives its waters from more than 200 streams, about 30 of which are of considerable size. These drain all area of 100,000 square miles, and furnish the lake with water remarkable for its clearness, and abounding in fish of various kinds, but especially in trout, white fish, and salmon. The rivers are almost all unfit for navigation, by reason of their tremendous currents, rapids, and rocks. The outlet of the lake is at the southeastern end, by means of St. Mary’s Strait, or as it is sometimes called, St. Mary’s River, which connects it with Lake Huron and the other great lakes. This strait is about 63 miles long, and enters Lake Huronl by three channels.

It is very beautiful and romantic in its scenery, at some places spreading out into small lakes, and at others rushing in foaming torrents over the rocks that seek to bar its way, or winding around beautiful islands. It is navigable for vessels drawing eight feet of water, from Lake Huron to within one mile of Lake Superior, at which point falls obstruct the navigation. This part of the strait is called the Sault Ste. 3Iarie. A canal has been constructed by the General Government around the rapids. It is 100 feet wide and 12 feet deep, and affords unbroken communication between Lakes Superior and Huron. The falls have a descent of 22 feet in threefourths of a mile, and are exceedingly beautiful. The strait also separates tle State of Michigan from Canada West. The greatest obstacles to the navigation of the lake are the violent storms that sweep over it.

Until very recently it was an almost unknown region, but now there is constant steamboat communication along its entire length, and it is frequently visited by persons in search of pleasure or health. The principal export of the lake is copper, which is found in large quantities, and of a superior quality, along its shores. The total shipments of this metal, from the period of its discovery on the lake down to the close of the year 1861, amounted to over $18,600,000. 53

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TiIE GREAT RiEPUBLIC. Fond du Lac, and Duluth, at the western end of the lake, are the )rincipal settlements on its shores. For many years the savage settlements along the lake were mere fishing, villages, and even at the period of its discovery, the Indians had made but few lodgments here.

Attention was first drawn to it by its valuable fur trade, alnd the early Jesuit missionaries reached it about the year 1641. They established their first mission at the head of thie Bay of Pentanguishene (in Georgian Bay), and passed up in a canoe to the Sault Ste. Marie, where they found a village of 2000 Chippewa Indians, and heard from them of the great lake beyond, wvhich was explored by the missionaries about 20 years later. In 1668, a permanent mission was established at the Sault Ste. Marie, and in 1671, the region was formally taken possession of in the name of the King of France. The mines were first worked in 1771 and 1772, by an Englishman named Alexander Henry, whose enterprise proved iunprofital)le. General Lewis Cass, by order of the Government of the Untiited States, explored the region in 1820, and since then it has been growing in importance, and has yearly become better known’o the people of the country at large. LAKE

HURON Is the third in size of the great inland seas we are describing. It lies between latitude 43~ and 46~ 15’ N., and longitude 80~ and 84~ W.* It receives the waters of Lake Superior by the St. Mary’s RIiver, and of Lake Michigan by the Straits of Mackinaw, and empties into Lake Erie by the St.

Clair River. It is bounded on the S. S. W. by the State of Michigan, and on all other sides by Canada West. A long peninsula called Cabot’s Head, and the Manitouline chain of islands divide it into two unequal portions.

Those portions lying to the north and east are generally called Manitou (the Great Spirit) Lake, or the North Channel, and Manitouline Lake, or Georgian Bay. The general outline of the rest of the lake is in the form of a crescent, pursuing a S. S. E. an( N. I. W. course. Its extreme length, following the curve, is about 280 miles. Its greatest breadth, exclusive of Georgian Bay, is 105 miles. Its average breadth is about 70
miles, and it covers an area of 20,400 square miles. The surface of the water is elevated 19 feet above Lake Erie, 352 feet above Ontario, and 600
feet above the level of the sea. Its average depth is over 1000 feet. Off Saginiaw Bay, which indents the coast of Michigan, leads have beeni sunki 1800 feet without finding the bottom. 54

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THE UNITED STATES. The waters of the lake are remarkably pure and sweet, and so exceedingly transparent that objects can be distinctly seen 50 or 60 feet below the surface. The lake is said to contain upwards of 3000
islands. It is subject to frequent fearful storms, but its navigation is not considered dangerous. Steamers ply between its various ports, and pass through the Straits of Mackinaw into Lake Michigan. There are many fine harbors onl the coast, and the local trade is important. Tile scenery is romantic and beautiful, and is much admired by travellers. The outlet of Lake Huron is by the St. Clair River, which leaves the lake on its southern extremity. It has an average breadth of half a mile. It pursues a southerly course for forty miles, forming a part of the boundary between the United States and Canada, and empties into Lake St. Clair. It is navigable for large vessels. LAKE ST. CLAIR lies between Canada and the State of Michigan, in latitude 42~ 30’ N., longitude 82~ 3’ W. It is 30
miles long, has a mean breadth of 12 miles, and is 20 feet deep. It is thickly interspersed with islands, and receives the waters of the Thames, Clinton, and Great Bear Creeks, and other streams. At its southwestern extreminity it flows into the Detroit River, which connects it with Lake Erie. This river is in reality a mere strait 25 miles long, and from half a mile to a mile wide. The entire passage between Lakes Huron and Erie is navigable for large vessels. LAKE MICHIIGAN Lies wholly within the limits of the United States, and is the largest lake included within the territory of the Republic. The greater portion of the lake lies bet\veen the State of Michigan, on the east, and Illinois and Wisconsin, on the west; but the upper portion is entirely withlin the State of Michigan. The lake is situated between 41~ 30’ and 46~ N. latitude, and between 85~ 50’

and 88~ W. longitude. It b)ends slightly to the N. E. in the upper part, and its extreme length, f,l lowing the curve, is about 350 miles; its extreme width 90 miles. It has an average depth of about 900 feet, and covers an area of 20,000 square miles. As a general rule, the shores of the lake are low, and are formed of limestone rock, clay, and sand. The san(l thrown on the east shore by the heavy seas which prevail during storms, soon becomes dry, and is carried inland by the winds, where it is piled up in hills to a height of from 10 to 150 feet. The form of these hilils is constantly changing. The lake is said to be gradually 55

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. moving westward, or, in other words, to be leaving the shore of AIl.chigan, and encroaching upon that of Wisconsin. There are very few islands in Lake Michigan, and these lie towards its northeastern extremity. It has but few bays on its shores, and still fewer good harbors. Little Traverse Bay, Grand Haven, and Green Bay are the principal. As the lake is subject to terrible storms throughout the year, it is not considered very safe for navigation. Previous to the completion of the railroads, however, its commerce was very great, and several lines of fine steamers ran between Chicago, Illinois, and Buffalo, New York, on Lake Erie. There are many steamers and other craft still on the lake, but the railroads have taken away nearly the entire passenger, and much of the freight business. Lake Michigan is connected with Huron and the other lakes by the Straits of Mackinaw, or Mackinac. The lake is usually free from ice by the last of March, but the Straits of Mackinaw are frozen over until late in April. Fish abound in the lake, are caught in great quantities near Mackinaw, and are sent to the various parts of the Union, packed in ice. The principal cities and towns on Lake Michigan, are Chicago, Racine, Milwaukee, and Sheboygan, on the west side, and Michigan City and Grand Haven, on the east side. There are 23 lighthouses and 4
beacons on the lake. LAKE ERIE Lies between Canada West, on the north, a part of the States of New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio, on the south, Michigan on the west, and New York on the east. It is situated between 41~

25’ and 42~ 55’ N. latitude, and between 78~ 55’ and 83~ 34’ W. longitude.

It is elliptical in form, is 240 miles long, has an average width of 38
miles, its greatest width being 57 miles, and has a total circumflerence or coast line of 658 miles. Its depth is less than that of any of the other great lakes, being only 270 feet in its deepest portion. Its average depth is estimated at 120 feet. It is 322 feet above the level of Lake Ontario, which distance is overcome at a single effort by the falls of the Niagara. The shallowness of Lake Erie offers a great obstacle to navigation, inasmuch as the shoal portions freeze over regularly every winter. There are scarcely any naturally good harbors on the lake. Those now in use require to be deepened and protected by artificial means. Not 56

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THE UNITED STATES. withstanding the fact that the railroads have drawn off an immense amount of trade, and in spite of the obstacles presented by the lake itself, its commerce is still very great. The trade of the port of Buffalo alone is estimated at over $85,000,000 annually. The total trade of the lake is over $220,000,000 annually. A large numbl)er of steamers and other vessels are engaged during the season of navigation, which lasts from about the 1st of April to about the 1st of December. The principal harbors on the American side, are those of Cleveland, Sandusky City, Toledo, Buffalo, Erie, and Dunkirk. Those on the Canadian side are Ports Dover, Burwell, and Stanley. The shores of the lake are in many places of a very unstable nature, and yield easily to the action of the water, causing frequent dangerous “slides,” as they are called. Buffalo has suffered considerably from this cause. The waters abound in fish, the principal of which are the trout and white fish. Several species of pike, the sturgeon, sisquit, muskelonge, black bass, white bass, and Oswego bass are found. There are 26 lighthouses and beacons on the American, and 10 on the Canada shore. Communication is maintained between Lakes Erie and Ontario by means of the Welland Canal, which is cut through the Canadian peninsula. The Maumee, Sandusky, Grand, Huron, RPaisin, and several other rivers flow into the lake. The most violent storms sweep over it, particularly in the months of November and December, causing many shipwrecks and considerable destruction to life and property. The outlet is by the Niagara River, which commences at Black Rock, about 4 miles north of Buffalo. It is 34 miles long, and has a general northward course.

About 7 miles from Buffalo, the river divides and encloses a large island, called Grand Island, 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 miles wide. Two or three miles below Grand Island are the famous Falls of Niagara, which will be described in the chapter relating to the State of New York. The giver is navigable above the falls from a short distance above the rapids to Lake Erie-nearly 20 miles; and from its mouth to Lewiston, 7 miles. It is spanned by two fine suspension bridges. On the 10th of September 1813, Commodore Oliver N. Perry, in command of a small American squadron, defeated a British fleet of superior force near Put-in-bay, a harbor among the Bass Islands, near the western end of the lake. This victory completely destroyed the British power along the shores of Michigan. 57

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,THE GREAT REPUBLIC. LAKE ONTARIO Is the smallest and most easterly of the five great lakes of America, and is situated between latitude 43~ 10’ and 44~ 10’ N., and between longitude 76~ and 80~ WV. It runs nearly due east and west, and divides the State of New York on the south from Canada on the northll. It is 190 miles long, and its greatest breadth is 55 miles.

It covers an area of 5400 square miles, is about 230 feet above the tide water in the St. Lawrence, and has a depth of about 600 feet. It is navigable throughout its entire extent for ships of the line, and has several fine harbors, the principal of which are Oswego and Sackett’s Harbor, on the New York shore, and Kingston, Toronto, and Ijamilton, in Canada. The lake is rarely closed with ice to any extent, except in the shoal water along the shore, and never freezes over. It receives the waters of the upper lakes through the Niagara, and those of the Genesee, Oswego, and Black Rivers, in the United States. It is connected with Lake Erie by the Welland Canal. It contains a number of islands, the largest of which, Amherst Island, is 10 miles long, and 6 miles broad. The waters of the lake are very clear and abound in a variety of fine salmon, trout, bass, and other fish. A number of steamers and other vessels are engaged in the lake trade, which is important, amounting to between $35,000,000
and $40,000,000 per annurnm. During the war of 1812-15, the United States and Great Britain maintained powerful fleets on Lake Ontario, and in the course of the war several severe engagements occurred on the lake between the opposing forces. Besides the five great lakes already described, there are a number of others which will be referred to in connection with the States in which they are situated. MOUNTAINS. The principal mountain ranges of the United States are the great Alleghany range on the east, and the Rocky Mountains on the west. THE ALLEGHANY OR APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS.

This is the general term applied to the vast system of mountains in the southeastern part of iNorth America, extending from Maine to the northern part of Alabama, pursuing in their course a general southwestward direction. As the range passes through different 58

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TU-E UNITED STATES. ALLEGIIANY MOUNTAINS. States, it is called by different names. The distance of this chain from the sea varies along its course. In New Hampshire, near its northern termination, it is less than 100 miles from the ocean, and at its southern end the distance from the sea is 300 miles. In New England and New York the chain is broken and irregular, some of its ranges running almost north and south, but in the States south of New Yorkl, the ranges are very continuous, and run for the most part parallel to the main ridge. In common usage, the term Alleghany Mountains applies almost exclusively to that portion of the range lying in and south of the State of Pennsylvania. The White MIountains of New Hampshire, and the Adirondacks of New York, are considered outliers of this great chain, as are also the Catskills, of the latter State. The entire length of the main range, not counting its lateral groups, is 1300
miles. Its extreme width, which occurs in Pennsylvania and Maryland, about half way in its length, is 100 miles. The highest summits of the Appalachian chain are MAount Mitchell, in North Carolina, 6470 feet, Mount Washington, in New HIampshire, 6226 feet, and AIount Marcy, in New York, 5467 feet, above the level of thie s ea. The entire range is rich in the most interesting’ geological foriiia 59

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tions. Nearly all the minerals knownl to the Continent are found in these mountains. The scenery is grand, and the atmosphere pure and invigorating. Numerous railroads cross the range, or pierce it with their tunnels. The great western range is known as THE ROCKY

MOUNTAINS. These are a continuation northward of the Cordilleras of Central America and Mexico. They enter the United States at the southern extremity of New Mexico and Arizona Territories, near latitude 31~ 30’ N., and pass up the entire western side of the Republic, into British America.

They are divided into several ranges, and cover an area 1000 miles wide from east to west. The most easterly range extends through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana Territories, and forms the boundary between Wyoming and Idaho, and Idaho and Montana. It includes the Span ish Peaks, Pike’s Peak, and the Wind River Mountains, the last of which contain Fremont’s Peak, 13,570 feet high. West of this great range is a smaller one, called the WAVahsatch Mountains, lying south of the Great Salt Lake.

These mountains, under other names, pass northward, to the east of Salt Lake. In Utah they cover a wide district, and their ridges spread out in various directions. The ridge known as the Uintah Mountains extends east and west. The western division of the Rocky Mountains enters the State of California from the Peninsula of Old California, and soon breaks into two ranges, the lowest of which, known as the Coast Range, runs parallel to the Pacific Ocean, at a distance of from 10 to 50 miles from the sea until the northern part of California is reached, when it rejoins the higher range, which is called the Sierra Nevada, which runs parallel to the Coast Range, at a distance of 160 miles from the sea. From the point of the reunion of its branches the range pursues its way northward into British America, the two ridges being again divided in Oregon and Washington Territory, the lesser retaining its own name, and the Sierra Nevada being styled the Cascade Range. The summits of the Sierra Nevada are generally above the line of perpetual snow, while the Coast Range has an average height of from 2000 to 3000 feet. Several of its peaks, however, rise to more than double that altitude. Mount Ripley is 7500 feet, and Mount St.

John 8000 feet high. Mount Linn is still higher, but its exact altitude has not yet been ascertained. Mount Shasta, at the point of the union of the two ranges in Northern California, is 14,440 feet high. 60

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TIlE UNITED STATES. P()OCKY MOUNTAINS. “Between the highest ridge of the Rocky Mountains on the east, and the Sierra Nevada and Cascade Range on the west, is a vast region of table land, which in its widest part extends through fourteen degrees of longitude; that is about 700 miles from east to west. Humboldt, in his’Aspects of Nature,’ observes that the Rocky Mountains, between 37~ and 43~, present lofty plains of an extent hardly met with in any other part of the globe; having a breadth from east to west twice as great as the plateaus of Mexico. In the western part of the great central plateaus above described, lies the Great Basin, otherwise called Fremont’s Basin, from its having been first explored by Colonel Fremont. It is situated between the Sierra Nevada and Wahsatch Mountains, and is bounded on every side with high hills or mountains. It is about 500
miles in extent, from east to west, and 350 from north to south. It is known to contain a number of lakes and rivers, none of whose waters ever reach the ocean, being probably taken up by evaporation, or lost in the sand of the more arid districts. As far as known, the lakes of this basin are salt, except Utah Lake. The largest of these, the Great Salt Lake, is filled with a saturated solution of common salt; it has an elevation of 4200 feet above the sea.” Lippincott’s Gazetteer. 61

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Owing to the broad base and gentle rise of the Rocky Mountain Range, it is crossed with comparatively little difficulty. Its passes are among the finest on the globe, and will vie in grandeur of scenery with any of those of the ol( world. WVe have already spoken of the rivers which rise upon the slopes of this great range, and shall pass thenm by for the present, to return to them again in other portions of this work. SOIL. The soil of the United States “presents almost every variety, from the dry sterile plains in the region of the Great Salt Lake, to the rich alluviums of the Mississippi Valley. It can most conveniently be described by following the seven great divisions indicated by the river system of the country, viz., the St. Lawrence basin, the Atlantic slope, the Mississippi Valley, the Texas slope, the Pacific slope, the inland basin of Utah, sometimes called the Great or Fremont Basin, and the basin of the Red River of the north. 1. The St. Lawrence basin embraces parts of Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota, and all of Michigan; it is an elevated and fertile plain, generally well wooded. 2. The Atlantic slope includes all New England except a part of Vermont; all of New Jersey, Delaware, the District of Columbia, South Carolina, and Florida; and portions of New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, Northl Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi. It may be subdivided into two regions, a N. E. section and a S. W. section, separated by the Hudson River. The former is hilly, and generally better adapted to grazing than tillage, though some parts of it are naturally fertile, and a large proportion is carefully cultivated. The S. W. section may be again divided into a coast belt from 30 to 150 miles in width, running from Long Island Sound to the mouth of the Mississippi, and including the whole peninsula of Florida; and an inland slope from the mountains towards this coast belt. The former, as far south as the Roanoke River, is sandy and not naturally fertile, though capable of being made highly productive; from the Roanoke to the Mississippi it is generally swampy, with sandy tracts here and there, and a considerable portion of rich alluvial soil. The inland slope is one of the finest districts in the United States, the soil consisting for the most part of alluvium from the mountains and the decomposed primitive rocks which underlie the surface.

3. The Mississippi Valley occupies more than two-fifths of the area of the 62

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t

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THE UNITED STATES. Republic, and extends from the Alleghany to the Rocky Mountains, and from the Gulf of Mexico to British North America, thus including parts of New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, New Mexico, Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota, and all of Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Nebraska, and Kansas, and the Territories north of Nebraska and east of the mountains. It is for the most part a prairie country, of fertility unsurpassed by any region on the globe, except perhaps the Valley of the Amazon. The ground in many places is covered with mould to the depth of several feet, in some instances to the depth of 25 feet. The northwest part of the valley, however, offers a strong contrast to the remainder. There is a desert plateau 200 to 400
miles wide, lying at the base of the Rocky Mountains, at an elevation 2000
to 5000 feet above the sea, part of it incapable of cultivation on account of the deficiency of rain and lack of means of irrigation, and part naturally sterile. 4. The Texas slope includes the southwestern country of the Mississippi Valley, drained by rivers which flow into the Gulf of Mexico, and embracing nearly all of Texas, and portions of Louisiana and New Mexico. It may be divided into three regions: a coast belt from 30 to 60 miles wide, low, level, and very fertile, especially in the river bottoms; a rich, rolling prairie, extending from the coast belt about 150
or 200 miles inland, and admirably suited for grazing; and a lofty tableland in the northwest, utterly destitute of trees, scantily supplied with grass, and during a part of the year parched w ith complete drought.

Almost the only arable land in this section is found in the valleys of the Rio Grande and a few other streams. 5. The Pacific slope, embracing the greater part of California, Oregon, and WAVashlington Territory, and parts of New Mexico and Utah,* is generally sterile. That part, however, between the Coast Range and the ocean, and the valleys between the Coast Range, and the Cascade Range and Sierra Nevada, are very fertile, and the same may be said of a few valleys and slopes among the Wabhsatch and Rocky Mountains, though these are better adapted to pasturage than to anything else. 6. The great inland basin of Utah, which includes besides Utah parts of New Mexico, California, Oregon, and Washington, is probably the most desolate portion of the United States. It abounds * To this add a part of Colorado, and all of Nevada and Idaho, formerly included in Oregon, and in Utah and Washington Territories. 63

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. in salt lakes, and there are only a few valleys where the soil acquires by irrigation enough fertility to afford a support for man. 7. That portion of the basin of the Red River of the north which belongs to the United States is confined to the small tract in the northern part of Dacotah and Minnesota; it contains some very productive lands, especially in the river bottoms.” * CLIMATE. The climate of the United States is varied. It could not possibly be uniform in a country presenting such a wide diversity of physical features in its various parts. In Florida, the thermometer does not vary over twelve degrees during the year, but in the remainder of the country the climate is exceedingly variable, and the changes are sudden and severe, often ranging over thirty degrees in the course of a few hours. Alternations from rain to drought are also as common and severe as those from heat to cold and from cold to heat. The summers are always hot. The thermometer frequently ranges as high as 110~ F. In the North, however, the hot weather does not continue in full vigor for more than a few days at a time, and in the South, the heat is seldom so extreme, though it continues for a longer time. California has a climate as mild as that of Italy, but the NorthEastern States are swept by the chill winds from the Atlantic and the ice fields of British America. The great lakes mitigate to a considerable extent the temperature of the country around them. A similar effect is produced upon the temperature of their surrounding regions by the elevated plains of New MAexico, Utah, and Oregon. The following table shows the average temperature of each of the seasons of the year oni the Atlantic and Pacific coasts and in the interior: PLACE OF OBSERVATION.

Latitude. Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter. Year. Fortress Monroe (near Norfolit, Va.)……………… 37~ 56.87~ 76-57~ 61-68~ 40.45~ 58.890

Fort Columbus (New York Harbor)………………. 40~ 42’ 48-74~ 72-10~

54-55~ 31-38~ 51-69~ Fort Sullivan (Eastport,

Maine)…………………… 44~ ]5’ 40-15~ 60.50~ 47.52~ 23‘90~ 43.02~

St. Louis, Missouri……………………………………. 38~ 40’

54-15~ 76-19~ 55-44~ 32-27~ 54-51~ Chicago,

Illinois……………………………………….. 41~ 52’ 44.90~

67‘33~ 48.85~ 25.90~ 4-6.750 F,,rt Ripley,

Minnesota……………………………… 46~ 19’ 39-33~ 64-94~ 42-91~

10-01~ 39-30~ Monterey,

California………………………………….. 36 36’ 5399’ 58-64

57.29~ 51-22~ 55.29~ San Francisco,

California…………………………….. 37~ 48’ 5441~ 57-33~ 56-83~

50-86~ 54-88~ + Astoria,

Oregon…………………………………….. 46~ 11’ 51-16~ 61-58~

53.76~ 42‘43~ 52-233 * Appleton’s Cyclopaedia, vol. xv. p. 716. t Id. p.

717. 64 I

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THE UNITED STATES. Rain is abundant in nearly all parts of the Union, and is distributed over the country in a very nearly equal degree throughout the year. In the Atlantic States south of Washington City, the fall is less regular than in the States north of the Capital, but is more plentiful than in the latter, and occurs more frequently in summner than in winter. On the Pacific coast, the fall of rain is periodical, occurring chiefly in the winter and spring, and south of the fortieth parallel of North latitude, in the autumn also. Very little rain falls between the Cascade Range and the one-hundredth meridian of West longitude. When rain does visit this region, it comes in violent showers, which are especially severe in the mountains. The annual fall in the desert region through which the Colorado flows, is estimated at 3 inches; in the great plain south of the Columbia River, 10 inches; in the desert east of the Rocky Mountains, from 15 to 20 inches. Scarcely any of this falls in the summner.* Snow falls in the Northern States to a considerable depth. In the Lake Superior country, more or less snow falls every day during the winter, and remains on the ground until the spring. It is comparatively rare south of the James River, in Virginia, and does not remain on the ground very long. In the Gulf States, it is scarcely ever seen except in the extreme northern portion. The most dangerous local diseases, of the New England( and Middle States, are pulmonary complaints; of the Southern States, bilious fevers, and yellow fever along the Gulf coast; of the Western States, intermittent and bilious fevers, and dysentery. The “fever and ague” prevails chiefly in new regions, and disappears as they become thickly settled. The following table, taken firom the eighth census of the United States, will show the ratio of mortality in each State, for the year ending June 1st, 1860: * Appleton’s Cyclopmdia. 65 5

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. STATES AND TERRITORIES. Population to one death. 74 48

101 74 89 78 81 87 87 92 73 69 57 81 92 57 100 153 64 66 72 88 82 84 93

218 95 69 71 72 63 92 70 107 ……… ……… 75 ……… 71 106 228

58 79 A l
ebaria………………………………………………………………………

Arkanisas……………………………………………………………………..

California……………………………………………………………………..

Connecticut………………………………………………………………….

Delaware……………………………………………………………………..

Florida…………………………………………………………………………

Georgia……………………………………………………………………….

elliltHis…………………………………………………………………………

Indeiana………………………………………………………………………..

Iowa…………………………………………………………………………..

Kansas…………………………………………………………………………

Kentu
cky……………………………………………………………………..

IOeuisiana………………………………………………………………………

laine…………………………………………………………………………

Rh ary
slandl……………………………………………………………………..

Nltssacl
nsetts………………………………………………………………..

Michigan……………………………………………………………………

Ninnesota……………………………………………………………………

Tlississilpi……………………………………………………………………

lissouli……………………………………………………………………….

New

Hamipshire…………………………………………………………….

New

Jersey…………………………………………………………………..

New

York……………………………………………………………………

No rth

Carolina………………………………………………………………

OhIio…………………………………………………………………………..

Oregon…………………………………………………………………………

Pennsylvania………………………………………………………………..

Rhode Isla
od………………………………………………………………..

South

Carolina………………………………………………………………

Tennessee……………………………………………………………………..

Texas………………………………………………………………………….

V,hermont………………………………………………………………………

V irgin
ia………………………………………………………………………

Wisconsin.;…………………………………………………………………..

Colorado………………………………………………………………….

Dactah…………………………………………………………………..

Nebraska…………………………………………………………………

Nevada………………………………………………………………….

New

Mexico…………………………………………………………….

Utah……………………………………………………………………..

W\ashington……………………………………………………………..

District of Co
lumbia…………………………………………………. Deaths.

P’er ceat. 1-34 2-06 0‘99 1-35 1-13 1-28 1‘23 1-14 1‘15 1-09 1‘37 1-45

1-76 1-23 1-09 1.76 1.00 0.65 1-57 1-52 1-39 1-14 1.22 1-19 1‘07 0-46 1‘06

1-44 1-41 1-39 1-58 1-08 1-43 0‘93 ……… 1-34 1-42 0‘94 0‘44 1-72 1-27

Total, United States…………………………..392,821 79 1q27 From this table, it will be seen that Washington Territory is the first in point of healthfulness, Oregon second, Minnesota third, WVis consin fourth, Utah fifth, California sixth, Massachusetts twenty-ninth, and Arkansas thirtieth. MINERAL WEALTH. The mineral productions of the United States are varied and ex tensive. Coal exists in all the States except Maine; Vermont, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Delaware, South Carolina, Mississippi, and Wisconsin. Three distinct qualities are found-anthracite, bitumi nous and semi-bituminous. In 1860, the production amounted to Of anthracite………… 9,398,332 tons. Of
bituminous…………………………5,775,077 “

Total………..15,173,409 ” There are valuable and extensive beds of marl in Maine, New Jer sey, Maryland, Virginia, and several other States. Salt springs, some 66 12,759 8,885 3,704 6,138 1,246 1,764 12,816 19,299 15,325

7,259 1,443 16,460 12,234 7,614 7,370 21,303 7,390 1,108 12,213 17,652

4,469 7,525 46,881 11,602 24,724 237 30,214 2,479 9,745 15,163 9,377 3,355

22,472 7,141 ……. i 381 374 50 1,285 392,821 Total, United States…………………………………………

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THE UNITED STATES. of them of very great strength and value, are found in New York, Michigan, Virginia, Kentucky, and Arkansas. Nitrates of soda and potassa are found in the caves of Virginia, Kentucky, and Arkansas, while the plains of the great American desert and the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains furnish considerable quantities of nitrate and carbonate of soda. Gypsum, or sulphate of lime, is found in Maine, Maryland, and Texas, and in portions of New Mexico and Arizona. Marble, of every variety required for building, exists in nearly all the States. In those bordering on the Mississippi, a fine, compact car bonate of lime supplies its place.

Iron exists in every State and Ter ritory, and in every form known, from the bog ore, which contains about 20 per cent. of iron, to the pure metal.

In the year 1860, the total product of iron ore taken from the mines was estimated at 2,514,282 tons. Of this amount, Pennsylvania produced 1,706,476 tons. There are small quantities of lead in a large number of the States; but Missouri, Arkansas, Wisconsin, Iowa, and Illinois, alone, contain the great lead deposits of the country. An incomplete return for 1860, places the value of the lead production of the Union at $977,281.

The great copper region of the Union lies along the shores of Lake Superior, but the metal has been found in considerable quantities in Connecticut, New Jersey, Virginia, North Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee.

The ore found in the Lake Superior region, yields from 71 to 90 per cent.

of pure copper. The total product for 1860 was 14,432 tons, valued at $3,316,516. Zinc is found in Pennsylvania and New Jersey-the yield in the former State, in 1860, being 11,800 tons, valued at $72,600. Tin is found in Maine, to some extent, and also in California. Silver is found in connection with almost all the deposits of lead and copper; and in Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico, extensive veins of a fine quality exist. These are being well worked, but at present there is no accurate return of the total products of the mines. Silver also exists in California, North Carolina anLi Colorado. Small quantities of gold exist in Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Alabama, and Tennessee. The gold veins are more imlportant in Virginia and Georgia, which formerly furnished the greater part of the gold found in the United States. The mines of the Atlantic States, however, are comparatively neglected at present for those of the Pacific States. Immense deposits of gold exist in California, Oregon, Washington, LNevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Dacotah. Platinum and mercury are also found in California-tlhe former in small quantities, but the yield of the latter is so great as to 67

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. almost supply the demland for it for mining purposes.

Osmlium and irid(ium have been discovered in Oregon. They are used ill manufceturinc, gold pens. Cobalt is found in North Carolina and Missouri.

Pennsylvania, in 1860, yielded 2348 tons of nickel. Chromiiumn exists in Vermlont, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvaniai, and MAaryla(nd; and Vermont, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, and South Carolna suppilly considerable quantities of manganese. ‘PPRODUCTS OF THE SOIL. The native vegetation of the United States is too vast and varied to admit of a description here. AVe can only say that it covers a widle range of plants and trees, fromn the giant trees of California to the tiniest flower that bloom,s on the hill side. Nearly all the princi)al productions of the fi’igii, temperate and torrid zones are found within the limits of the Republic. INonie of thle great staples of food are natives of the country, but have been brought from other lands. It must be admitted, however, that they have been greatly benefited by the change, and many of them are produced here in finer qualities than in their old homes. Cucumbers, melons, squashes, and all the edible eictcrbitctece are importations. So are the most of the fruits, especially the apple, )ear, plum, quince, and apricot. The edible berries, such as the strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, whlortlebherry, bilberry, cloudberwr, etc., are natives of the soil. Cotton, flax, and hlemp are naturalized plants. ANIMALS. The zoology of the United States includes all the animals found on the North American Continent. Of bats, there are three genera and eleven species. The largest of the Sarcop1)cl(f or C(rntivora, is the cougar or catamount, whichl ranks next to the lion and IB’engal tiger in ferocity and strength. This animal is sometimes called the American panther, an erroneous appellation, as the panther is not a native of this country. The wild cat or bay lynx, and the Canadian lynx are found. The entire monkey tribe is lacking. There are seven species of the fox-the common red, the cross fox, the black or silver, the prairie, swift, gray, and short-tailed fox. The wolves are divided into two distinct species, the gray wolf of the woods, (divided into the reddish, black, and giant wolf,) a cowardly animal, andl the ferocious prairie wolf, which resembles the jacklal of the East. The 68

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THE UNITED STATES. I)iitigrada consist of the pine marten or American sable, the American fisher, the American ermine, the weasel, and two species of mink. The black, and the grisly bear, the badger, wolverene, skunk, and raccoon are found in various parts of the country. Several varieties of the seal family exist. The deer, the antelope, the Rocky Moantain or big horn sheep, also abound. The bison, which is usually but incorrectly called the buffalo, is found in the far West. Nearly all the birds, fish, reptiles, and insects of America are found in the various parts of the Union. “The domestic animals of the United States have been, with one or two exceptions, introduced fromn Europe. The horse, though not native to this continent, became wild at an early period, and now roams in large herds ill the plains of Texas, but is domesticated without great difficulty. There have been at different times stocks introduced from England, France, Spain, and some from Morocco and Arabia; much attention has been paid to the breeding of these animhals, and some of them have not lb)een surpassed in speed or other good points. The asses are mainly from Spain and Malta; the cattle from Great Britain; the goats from the south of Europe, though some efforts have been made to introduce Asiatic species; and the sheep from the Southdown, Saxon, and Spanish Merino breeds. The swine are of various stocks; one breed, common in Central and Western Virginiia and other mountainous districts, is tall, long, and gaunt, and of ferocious nature and uncertain origin; but the most common breeds are the Berkshire (English) and Chinese, and crosses upon these.

Our domestic dogs and cats are, with few exceptions, of European origin.

The brown or Norway rat was an importation from the country whose name it bears, but has now been nearly destroyed by a more powerful and ferocious black rat, said to be from the south of Europe. Efforts have been made, but with no very satisfactory result, to introduce the llama of South America into our mountainous districts. The attempt to aceclimate the Bactrian camnel in Texas and California, gives promise of greater success.” * CHARACTERISTICS OF POPULATION. The people of the United States consist of representatives of every nation in Europe, and of many in Asia and Africa. For a long time after the Revolution tlhe characteristics impressed upon certain parts * Appleton’s Cyclopedia, vol. xv. p. 726. 69

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. of the country by the original settlers remained in their full force with their descendants, but at present the rush of emigration has been so great from all parts of Europe, that these have been either very much weakened or entirely destroyed. The New England States were originally settled by the Puritans, and to the present day still retain many of the strongest of the peculiarities of their forefathers. The gradual but steady increase of their Irish population is working great changes, however, in these States. The city of Boston is being especially affected in this manner. 1New York was settled by emigrants from Holland, and though the eastern portion of the State has scarcely any traces of its origin left, the interior possesses still many communities, which not only retain very many of the customs and characteristics of the old settlers, but in which, until a very recent period, the Dutch language was spoken to a considerable extent by those born on the soil. Maryland was settled by Catholics, who have not yet lost their controlling influence in the State. Delaware and New Jersey were settled by the Swedes. Pennsylvania was colonized by English Quakers, who were followed by many German families. The descendants of these classes still control the State-the Quakers, as of old, living in the eastern, and the Germans in the southwestern, western, and central portions. Virginia was settled by the English, who were followed by many French Huguenots and Germans. These settled in three distinct parts of the State-the first settlers along the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries, the French along the Upper James, above the falls, and the Germans in the rich valley of the Shenandoah. These distinctions were strongly preserved as late as the period of the rebellion. North Carolina was settled by nonconformists from Virginia. South Carolina, by English Churchmen and French Huguenots, who had not lost the control of the State at the time of the rebellion.

Georgia by English prisoners for debt, followed by other classes from the mother country. Louisiana was settled by the French, and was inhabited chiefly by them when purchased fromnt the French crown. Texas and California were originally Spanish, and, to a great extent, are still so.

The latter State has a strong Chinese element in it. Florida was originally Spanish, and still retains its original characteristics along the Gulf Coast. The other States and the Territories were settled by adventurers from the older portions of the country, and by emigrants from Europe, who still continue to flock to our shores in great numbers. The following tables will show the number 70

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THE UNITED STATES. of arrivals of emigrants in this country for a period of fifty-one years, or from January 1st, 1820, to September 30th, 1870, their national ities and destinations: Wholly or mainly of Slavic Races.

Russia……………………… 2,930 Poland………………………

3.955 Hungary………………….. 488 Total Slavic…………… 7,373

Wholly or mainly of English Speech. England……………………

501,316 Ireland…………………… 1,406,030 Scotlan d…………………… 82,403 Wales………………………………

12,213 Other Great Britain………1,824,078 British Anmeriica…………. 271,185 Anistralia………………….. 246

Azores…………………….. 6,636 Be,rmudas………………… 61

St. Ilelena………………… 33 Cape of Good Ihope……………. 88

New Zealand……………..2 17 Sandwich Islands………… 35

Malta……………………… 127 Jamaica……………………. 85

Total English speech…4,104,553 Wholly or mainly 2rench, Spanish Portuguese and Italian. Fran ce…………………….. 245,147

Spaill……………………… 23,096

Portugal…………………………… 4,416

Italy……………………….. 23,387 Sardinia……………………

2,103 Mexico…………………… 20,039 Central America………………. 1,067 Guiana……………………. 53

Venezuela………………… 40 Peru……………………….. 36

Chili……………………….. 28 Brazil……………………… 45

Buenos Ayres………….6…. 7 Bolivia……………………… 3 New Granada…………….. 2 Paraguay……………….. I Other South America.-…………….. 7,407 Cuba……………………….. 3,960

Hayti……………………… 81 Porto Rico………………… 50

Other West Indies……… 45,458 Cape de Verdes………….. 71

Madeira………………….. 313 Canaries…………………… 290

Wholly or mainly of African.a-2 tions, with Turkey and Greece.

Liberia…………………….. 64 Egypt……………………… 20

Abyssinia………………….. 5 Africa (general)………….. 471

Barbary States…………… 11 Turkey……………………. 299

Greece……………………… 195 Total, Africa, etc……….. 1,065

Fronm countries not speci fied………………………. 205,807

Aggregate since 1820…… 7,448,925 Wholly or mainly of Germanic and Scandinavian Speech. Germany…………………… 2,250,822

Prussia…………………….. 100,983

Austria…………………….. 7,904 Sweden and Norway…… 151,104

Denmark………………….. 23,221 Ilolland…………………….

30,905 Belgium…………………… 16,850

Switzerland………………. 61,269 Iceland……………………. 11

Total Germanic……….. 2,643,069 NUMBER OF EMIGRANTS IN EACH YEAR.

8,385 1833…………… 58,640 1846…………… 154,416

1859……………. 121,282 9,130 1834………….. 65,365

1847…………… 234,968 1860……………. 153,640 6,911

1835………….. 45,374 1848…………… 226 527 1861…………….

91,920 6,354 1836…………… 76,242 1849…………… 297,041

1862……………. 91,987 7,912 1837………….., 7 9,340

1850…………… 369,963 1863……………. 176,28 10,199

1838………..1 38, 914 1851………. 379 466 1864………. 193,418

10,837 1839…………… 68,072 1852…………… 371,603

1865……………. 248,120 18,875 1840…………… 84,006

1853…………… 368,645 1868……………. 318,554 27,382

1841…………… 80,289 1854…………… 427,833

1867……………. 298,358 22,520 1842…………… 104,565

1855…………… 200,877 1868……………. 297,215 23,322

1843…………… 52,49.. 6 1856……….. 200,436 1869…………

3,287 22,633 1844…………… 78,615 1857…………… 251,306 1870

(9 inos.)…. 285,429 60,482 1845………….. 114,371 1858…………..

123,12648 Total………… 7,448,925 AV O WED DESTINA TION OF EMIGRANTS

LANVDED A T CASTLE GARDEN, FROM A UGUST 1, 1855, TO JA.NUARY 1, 1870, BEING 2,340,928 PASSENGERS. New York and undecided.. 972,267

Colorado…………………… New Mexico……………….

Idaho……………………… Dacotah……………………

Montana…………………… Utah………………………..

Wyoming………………….. Total Pacific States……

Ohio………………………… 120,428 Michigan………………….

52,205 Indiana…………………… 29,576

Illinois……………………. 213,315 Wisconsin…………………

121,660 Minnesota………………… 29,360

Iowa……………………. 44,286 Missonri……………………

44,309 Kansas…………………….. 5,052

Nebraska………………… 4,198 Total Northwest. States. 664,389

Bistern States. Maine……………………… 4,013 New Hamiipshire…………. 2,859 Vermont…………………… 4.405

Massachusetts…………………. 111,129 Rhode Island……………..

21, 430 Connecticuit………………. 39,169 Total Eastern States….

183,005 Virginia……………………. 8,235 West Virgini………………. 172 North Carolina…………… 784 South Carolina…………… ],854 Georgia……………………. 1,623

Florida……………………… 1 99 Al abama……………………

577 T Total Southeast. States. 13,444 Nevada…………………… 80

California…………………. 22,823 Oregon……………………..

189 Washington Territory….. 6 I I 7i Miqulon………………….. 3

Coi-sic……………………… 11 Sicily………………………..

67,5 Total French, etc………. 377,889 Wholly or mainly ofasiatic Races.

Cbii,,,t……………………… 108,610

Japan……………………… 215 India………………………. 178

Arabia……………………… 33 Syria……………………….. 4

Persia………………………. 14 Asia (general)……………. 24

East India Islands………. 119 Society…………… 7 Pacific Islaid,;……………. 5 Total Asiatic…………… 109,169

1820……………. 1821……………. 1822…………….

1823……………. is24……………. 1825……………. i 826……………. 1827……………. 1828…………….

1829……………. 1830……………. 1831…………….

1832…………… 170 50 32 49 33 23,735 5 47,172 Northwestern States.

Sotitheastern States. Central States. New Jersey………………..

63,109 P,nnsylvai,ia…………….. 224,880

M,,ryland………………….. 18,033 Delaware………………….

2,011 District of Coliimbia……. 9,129 Total Central States…- 317,162

-Pacif,c States and Territories.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. AVOWED DESTINATION OF EMIG Southwestern States. Other Places. Missouri…………………… 44,309 Canada,,…

Keutucky…………….. 11,657 New Brunswick………..

Tennessee……………….4.1. New oinion……………

Arkansas………………….. 30B 1t{)Q#CI fir,-) Soulth Americ:………….. Mississippi Cub……………………

Mississippi… 6 Cuba……………………….6. Louisiana……

ei…………….. exico……………………..

Texas……………………… 1,522 Central America……………

Total Southwest. States 66,917 ancouver’s Islan d…….. Total Southwest.

States. 66,917 Vailcouver’s Island…. Australia…………………..

50,828 Bermuda…………………. 1‘028 Sandwich Islainds………..

‘816 Iaussi,,n Am,ierica………….. 55 British Columbia………… 349

Jpan………………………. 210 Chi………………………. 141

Uklakowi…………………. 113 Total……………………. 6

Previous to 1820, no exact account was kept of the arrivals of emigrants from foreign countries; but as near as can be ascertained, the number was as follows: From 1790 to 1800……….. 50,000 ” 1800 ” 1810…………

70,000 ” 1810 ” 1820……….. -. 114,000 Total………….. 234,000

This added to the number of emigrants since 1820, gives a total number of 7,682,925 emigrants since the formation of the Federal Government. During the present year, 1871, the number of arrivals will be unusually large, if the rate which has marked the first portion of it is continued throughout the year. AGRICULTURE. Agriculture is the principal interest of the United States, and is growing in importance every year. A brief glance at each of the great staples in detail will be interesting and useful. 71laize, or Intdian Corn. Mtaize is tlhe principal production of the United States, and is cultivated in every State and Territory of the Republic. It is best adap)ted to the soil and climate of the country, and furnishes the largest amount of nutritive food. It is generally a sure crop where it is properly cultivated. The metlhd of cultivation is substantially that of the Indians, from whom the white settlers learned it in 1608, in which year they first planted it in thle vicinity of Jamiestown. At present the yield varies fromn 20 to 135 bushels to the acre. In 1869, the total product of the country amounted to 874,120,005 bushels. The States which produced the greatest nurnm)er of bushels that year, stand as follows: Illinois, 121,500,000 bushels; Missouri, 80,500,000 bushels; Ohio, 68,250,000
bushels; Indiana, 73,500,000 bushels; IKentucky, 51,500,000 bushels; Tennessee, 47,500,000 bushels; and Iowa, 78,500,000 bushels. The 74‘2 13 2

] 4G6 1 6 22,035 76,572

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THE UNITED STATES. product of the other States ranged firom 200,000 to 30,000,000 bushels. The first was the yield of Oregon, tile smallest of all. T’heat. This grain ranks next to Indian Corn in iml)ortance, and wvhen the climate and soil are adapted to its growth, is preferred by the Amierican farmer to all others. Considerable care is exercised in its culture, and the greatest ingenuity has been displayed in the effort to improve the mleans of cultivation, and with best results. The lwheat region of the United States, east of the Rocky Mountains, is situated between the 30th and 50th parallels of North latitude. On the Pacific coast, however, it extends several degrees farther north. As a general rule the wheat of America, especially that of the great wheat producing States of the Atlantic coast, is superior to any other in the world. At the London Exhibition, wheat from Genesee County, .New York, won the prize medal from the Royal Commissioners. The total yield of wheat for 1869
amounted to 264,146,900 bushels. The product of the principal wheat producing States was as follows: Illinois, 29,200,000 bushels; Wisconsin, 24,000,000 bushels; Iowa, 25,050,000 bushels; Indiana, 20,600,000 bushels; Ohio, 20,400,000 bushels; California, 21,000,000 bushels; and Pennsylvania, 16,500,000 bushels. The smallest yield was that of Florida, 1300 bushels. Rye is raised in all the States, but principally inll the Eastern and Middle States. Pennsylvania, New York, and ]New Jersey produce more than half the quantity raised in the whole country. There is a decided increase in the Western States, and in Maryland and Delaware. In the New England States it has decreased. The total product for 1869 was 22,227,000 bushels. Pennsylvania raised 6,250,000 bushels; New York, 4,748,000 bushels; New Jersey, 1,500,000 bushels; and Wisconsin, 1,150,000
bushels. Barley is grown in the Atlantic States, between the 30th and 50th degrees of North latitude, and on the Pacific coast, between the 20th and 62nd degrees of North latitude. The two-rowed barley is principally cultivated because of the fuluess of its grain, and its exemption from smut. It yields from 30 to 50 bushels to the acre, and will average about 50 pounds to the bushel.‘Very little of it is exported, as nearly the whole crop is used at home for the manufacture of beer, ale, etc. The demand for it is increasing. The crop of 1869 amounted to 28,650,200
bushels, or more than five times the amount produced in 1850. The States yielded as follows: California, 12,285,000 bushels; New York, 4,600,000
bushels; Ohio, 2,600,000 bushels; and Wisconsin, 1,500,000 bushels. The smallest yield was that of NiNorth Carolina, 3500 bushels. 73

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Buckwvheat is raised principally in the New Enlgland and Middle States. The average yield is from 30 to 45 bushels to the acre, though in some good soils it has yielded as much as 60 bushels. The crop of 1869 amounted to 17,255,500 bushels. Pennsylvania pro duced 6,500,000
bushels; New York, 5,590,000 bushels; and Ohio, 882,000 bushels. Oats.

This grain constitutes one of the most important crops of the country, and flourishes in sections where the heat or cold is too great for wheat or rye. It is grown principally in the Northern, Middle, and Western States.

The crop of 1869 amounted to 298, 284,000 bushels. New York produced 31,250,000 bushels; Penn sylvania, 48,000,000 bushels; Ohio, 27,000,000
bushels; Illinois, 35,726,000 bushels; Wisconsin, 22,500,000 bushels; and Iowa, 19, 000,000 bushels. The smallest yield was that of Florida, 23,000
bushels. Peas and Beans were largely cultivated by the Indians before the settlement of the country by the whites. At present they are grown as a field crop, principally in the Eastern, Middle, and Southern States. The yield averages from 25 to 40 bushels per acre, weighing about 64 pounds per bushel. The crop of 1869 amounted to 15,763,444 bushels. Mississippi produced 1,998,896 bushels; Georgia, 1,965,214 bushels; North Carolina, 1,932,204 bushels; South Carolina, 1,728,074 bushels; and New York, 1,909,339 bushels. The smallest yield was that of Rhode Island, 7698
bushels. Rice was first introduced into Virginia by Sir William Berkeley, in 1647; into the Carolinas in 1694; and into Louisiana in 1718. It is confined chiefly to a few of the extreme Southern States, where the climate is favorable to it, and the supply of water plentiful. The yield is usually from 20 to 60 bushels to the acre, weighing from 45 to 48
pounds to the bushel, when cleaned. The yield for 1860 was 187,140,173
pounds. South Carolina produced 119,100,528 pounds; Georgia, 52,507,652
pounds; Louisiana, 6,455,017 pounds; North Carolina, 7,593,976 pounds; Mississippi, 657,293 pounds; and Alabama, 499,559 pounds. It has been grown in Illinois, California, Missouri, Kentucky, New York, and Virginia, though of an inferior quality. Potatoes. The Irish or White Potato ranks next to wheat and corn in the industry of the Republic. The yield depends upon the soil and climate, and the manner of cultivation, and varies from 50 to 400 bushels, the average being less than 200 bushels to the acre. It 74

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THE UNITED STATES. suffers frequently from the “rot.” The crop of 1869
amounted to 133”,886,000 bushels. New York produced 28,500,000 bushels; Pennsylvania, 15,400,000 bushels; Ohio, 9,600,000 bushels; and Maine and Illinois, 7,500,000 bushels each; Indiana, 4,750,000 bushels; Massachusetts, 4,300,000 bushels; Michigan, 7,500,000 bushels; New Hampshire, 4,500,000 bushels; New Jersey, 5,300,000 bushels; Vermont and Wisconsin, 4,800,000 bushels. Sweet Potatoes. The sweet potato is a native of the East Indies, and was introduced into the Colonies soon after the settlement of Virginia. It is now extensively cultivated in the Southern and Western States. The crop of 1860 amounted to 41,606,302 bushels.

Georgia produced 6,508,541 bushels; North Carolina, 6,140,039 bushels; Alabama, 5,420,987 bushels; Mississippi, 4,348,491 bushels; and South Carolina, 4,115,698 bushels. Arkansas, Florida, Kentucky, Louisiana, New Jersey, Tennessee, Texas, and Virginia each produced over a million of bushels. Hay. The production of hay is confined principally to the Eastern, 5Middle, and Western States, comparatively little being raised in the Southern States. The product of 1869 amounted to 26,420,000 tons. New York produced 4,600,000 tons; Pennsylvania, 2,570,000 tons; Illinois, 2,800,000 tons; and Ohio, 2,000,000 tons. Ho])s. The hop crop for 1860
amounted to 11,010,012 pounds, and of this the State of New York produced 9,655,542 pounds, or more than five-sevenths of the entire amount produced in the United States. Tobacco is indigenous to Central America, and was cultivated in various parts of the Continent before the discovery by Europeans. Columbus, in 1492, was offered a cigar by an Indian Chief on the Island of Cuba. In 1585, Sir Richard Greenville found it and saw it smoked in Virginia; and in 1616, it was extensively cultivated by the Colonists in that province. It is cultivated to a greater or less extent in nearly all the States. The crop of 1860 amounted to 429,390,771 pounds.

Virginia produced 123,967,757 pounds; Kentucky, 108,102,433 pounds; Tennessee, 38,931,277 pounds; Maryland, 38,410,965 pounds; North Carolina, 32,853,250 pounds; Ohio, 25,528,972 pounds; Missouri, 25,086,196 pounds; and Connecticut, Illinois, Indiana, Massachusetts, Newv York, and Pennsylvania each produced more than 3,000,000 pounds. The rebellion almost destroyed the cultivation of tobacco in the Southern States, and it has not yet been fully resumed. 75

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. A WESTERN HIOMESTEAD. Sugar and Jolasses. The sugarcane is said to have been introduced into Florida, Louisiana, and Texas at the period of their first settlement by the French and Spaniards.

It does not thrive beyond the 33d degree of North latitude, or the 35th of South latitude. A very small quantity (283 hhds. in 1860) was raised in the warmest section of Wisconsin. The crop of 1860 amounted to 302,205
hogsheads of one thousand pounds each, of which Louisiana produced 297,816
hhds. In the same year the amount of cane molasses manufactured was 16,337,080 gallons. Louisiana produced 15,535,157 gallons. About the year 1858, a hardier species called the Sorghum, or Chinese sugarcane, adapted to the climate of nearly all the States, was introduced. It has since been extensively cultivated, and is used exclusively for the manufacture of molasses, as it will not produce sugar. In 1860, while it was yet new to our people, the yield of Sorghum molasses was 7,235,025 gallons. Iowa produced 1,993,474 gallons. In the same year, 38,863,884 pounds of maple sugar were produced in the United States, and 1,944,594 gallons of maple molasses. Of maple sugars New York produced 10,816,458 pounds; Vermont, 76

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THE UNiNITED STATES. 9,819,939 pounds; Ohio, 3,323,942 pounds; and Indiana, Massachusetts, Michigan, Missouri, Pennsylvania, and Wisconsin, each over a million. Of maple molasses, Ohio produced 392,932 gallons; Michigan, 384,521 gallons; and Indiana, 203,028 gallons. Butter card Cheese. The total product of butter for 1869 was 470,536,468 pounds. Of this amnount, New York produced( 103,097,280 pounds; Pennsylvania, 58,653,511 pound(s; Ohio, 48,543,162 pounds; Illinois, 28,052,551 pounds; Indiana, 18,306,651 pounds; and Iowa, Kentucky, Maine, Michligan, Missouri, New Jersey, Tennessee, Vermnont, Virginia, and Wisconsin, each produced more than 11,000,000 pounds. The amount of cheese produced in the same year was 114,154,211 pounds. New York produced 48,548,289 pounds, and Ohio, 21,618,893 pounds. lTine. The culture of the vine has not yet attained the importance which the future holds out to it, and the returns of 1860 afford but an indifferent test of the wine producing capacity of the United States. The yield in 1860 was 1,860,008 gallons, a gain of 1,638,759 gallons over the vintage of 1850. Of this, the State of Ohio produced( 562,640 gallons; California, 494,516 gallons; Indiana, 88,275
gallons; New York, 61,404 gallons; North Carolina, 54,064 gallons; Illinois, 47,093 gallons; Connecticut, 46,783 gallons; and Virginia, 40,508 gallons. The vine is cultivated in nearly all the States, but the great grape regions of the country are the Lower Ohio Valley, and the Valleys of the Pacific coast. Cotton. At the outbreak of the Rebellion, American Cotton controlled the markets of the world, as regards both the quantity and the quality furnished; but the nar, by stopping the production of cotton, l)v disorganizing the system of labor, and by injuring the plantations in various ways, struck a blow at this branch of our industry, which will damage it for many years to come. Cotton is grown principally in the extreme Southern States. In Virginia and North Carolina it is becoming less important every year. The yield for 1860 amounted to 5,198,077 bales, of 400 pounds each. This amount was distributed as follows: Bales. Mississippi……………………. 1,195,699

Alabama,……………………………….. 997,978

Louisiana,…………………….. 722,218

Georgia………………………………… 701,840

Texas………………………………… 405,100

Arkansas……………………………….. 367,485 77

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bales. 353,413 227,450 145,514 63,322 12,727 4,092

1,133 100 6 5,198,077 S………~.. *………. o……….1 South Carolina,. Tennessee,… North Carolina,. Florida,…. Virginia,…

Kentucky,… New Mexico,.. Missouri,… Illinois,…. ………… etu.

**…**……..4 Xew Mexico………**…….1 ……….

Total,…………… The yield for the year ending September 1st, 1870, was 3,154,946 bales, including 90,000 bales manufactured in the South, and not counted in the following statement of the production of each State.

Bales. 1,142,097 306,061 22,874 488,204 246,284 246,500 59,612 202,898

350,416 L a……… Louisiana,…. Alabama,….. Florida,……

Georgia,…… Texas,…… South Carolina,.. North Carolina…

Virginlia,…. Tennessee, Arkansas, !…….. i………02,898 IVool is grown in all the States to a greater or less extent. The yield for 1860
was 60,511,343 pounds, of which Ohio produced 10,648,161 lpounds; New York, 9,454,473 pounds; Michigan and Pennsylvania, each over 4,000,000
pounds; California, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Missouri, Vermont, and Virginia, each over 2,000,000 pounds; and Maine, New Hampshire, Tennessee, Texas, and Wisconsin, each over 1,000,000 pounds. Flax and IHemp. Flax is a native of Great Britain, and hemp of India. The second was formerly cultivated in this country to a greater extent than at present, having been to some degree superseded by the Southern cotton. In 1860 the yield of flax was 3,783,079 poundsnot quite half the amount grown in 1850. New York produced the largest amount, 1,514,476 pounds. In the same year 611,927 bushels of flaxseed were produced, of which Ohio grew 250,768
bushels. Of hemnp, 104,590 tons were grown in 1860. Kentucky produced 39,414 tons; New York, 35,821 tons; and Missouri 19,268 tons. Silk. Silk is said to be a native of Asia. Its production was introduced into the colony of Virginia in 1622, into Louisiana in 1718, into Georgia in 1732, and into Connecticut in 1760. The total 78 …..

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THE UNITED STATES. product of silk cocoons in 1860, was 6562 pounds, or 4281 pounds less than the yield of 1850. Ohio produced 2166 pounds, and Michigan 1043 pounds. Orchard Products. The value of the orchard crop of 1860 amounted to $19,759,361. It was distributed amongst the leading States as follows: New York, $3,726,380; Ohio, $1,858,673; Pennsylvania, $1,479,938; Indiana, $1,212,142; Illinois, $1,145,936. J3farket Garden Productions. These, in 1860, amounted to $15,541,027, distributed among the principal States as follows: New York, $3,381,596; New Jersey, $1,542,155; Pennsylvania, $1,384,970; Massachusetts, $1,397,623; California, $1,074,143. Clover and Grass Seed. The yield of clover seed for 1860 was 929,010 bushels, or double the crop of 1850. Pennsylvania produced 274,363 bushels; Ohio, 216,545 bushels; and New York, 106,933
bushels. The yield of grass-seed for the same year was 900,386 bushels, of which Illinois produced 202,809 bushels; and Missouri, 85,410 bushels.

Beeswax and Honey. In 1860, 1,357,864 pounds of beeswax were produced in the United States. Ohio produced 170,495 pounds; and Alabama 153,018
pounds. In the same year, 25,028,991 pounds of honey were produced. New York yielded 2,369,751 pounds; North Carolina 2,055,969 pounds; and Alabama, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Missouri, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee and Virginia, each over 1,000,000 pounds. VTalue of tome-JIade Manufactures. The total value of homemade manufactures in the United States, in 1860, amounted to $24,358,222. Tennessee produced $3,166,195 of this, and Kentucky, $2,095,578. The Value of Slaughtered Animals, in 1860, was $212,871,653. New York returned $15,841,403 of this amount, and Illinois $15,159,343. Cash Talute of Farms. In 1860, the cash value of farming lands in the United States amounted to $6,650,872,507. Of this amount, New York possessed $803,343,593; and Ohio $666,564,171. In the same year the farming implements and machinery in the Union were valued at $247,027,496. Those of New York were valued at $29,166,565, and those of Pennsylvania at $22,442, 842. 79

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. i[AN UFACTURES. The three great staple manufactures of the United States are cottons, woollens, and iron. These are manufactured in twentyfive of the States, but principally in MIassachusetts, New Hampshire, RPhode Island, Pennsylvania, Connecticut and New York. The cotton manufactures of the United States rank next to those of Great Britain. The woollen manufactures are of a more recent date than either of the others, but are growing in importance. In 1860; there were 140,433
establishments in the Union engage(d ill manufactures, mining and the mechanic arts. The capital invested in them amounted to $1,009,855,715.

They consumed $1,031,605,092 worth of raw material, and employed 1,311,246
hallnds, of which 1,040,349 were males, and 270,897 females. The annual cost of the labor employed by them was $378,878,966, and the annual value of their products amounted to $1,885,861,679. The cotton manufactures of the United States, in 1860, employed a capital of $99,551,465, in operating 915 establishmlnents. They consumed $55,994,735 worth of raw material. They paid annually $23,360,168 for labor, employed 118,920
hands, of whom 45,315 were males, and 75,605 females. They received annually for their products the sum of $115,237,926. The woollen manufactures in the same year employed a capital of $35,520,527, in operating 1909 establishments. They employed 48,900 hands, of whom 28,780
were males, and 20,120 were females. They consumed $40,461,300 worth of raw material; paid $10,937,877 for labor; and received $68,865,963 for their products. The iron manufactures, including pig, cast, and wrought iron, employed, in 1860, a capital of $74,579,667, and 68,108 hands. They consumed $50,218,648 worth of raw material in the manufacture of pig iron, castings, bar iron, forged iron, etc., and received for their products the sum of $96,450,744. The other more important manufactures amounted in value, during the year 1860, to the following sums: Leather…………..

Sawed and Planed Lumber……. Flour……………

Salt………………… iMalt Liquors………… Spirituous Liquors………. 80 $ 63,091,651 93,651,000 220,952,000 2,265,000

17,976,000 23,535,000

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THE UNITED STATES. In the year 1860, the product of fisheries was valued at $12,924,092. During the same year, 110 ships abd barks, 36 brigs, 372
schooners, 289 sloops and canal boats, and 26-4 steaners were built in the United States, making a total of 1071 vessels, with a total capacity of 212,892 tons. COMMERCE. From partial returns for the year ending June 30th, 1861, we find that the entrances and clearances at the ports of the United States were as follows: ENTRANCES. FOREIGN VESSELS. TOTAL. No. I Tons. No. Tons. 10,709 2,217,554 21,690 7,241,471 CLEARANCES. AMIERICAN

VESSELS. No. Tons. No. Tons. 10,586 2,262,042 21,665 7,151,35.5 The total value of domestic products exported from the United States to foreign countries, in 1869, was $373,189,274. The value of foreign goods exported from the Uinited States to foreign countries, in 1860, was $26,933,022.

The total value of imports from foreign countries in the same year was $362,166,254. Total Imports in 1869……… $463,461,427 Total Exports “

“……… 394,‘44,335 Excess of Imports over Exports…. $68,817,092

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. For many years after the States were well settled by the whites, the thorouTghfares were, as is the case in all sparsely populated countries, in such a wretched condition that they could scarcely be called roads at all. It was not until some years after the close of the war for independence that a proper degree of attention was paid to them.

Then 6 81 A’-NIERICAN YESSELS. No. I Tons. 11,2,51 5,023,917 FOREIGN

YESSELS. TOTAL. No. I Tons. ii,o-,9 4,889,313 i

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. VIE-W ON IIUDSON I1t VER-SIIOLVING TIIE STEA3BllOAT, TELEGRIAPi, 2,ND PJAILROAD. it wans held to be thle duty of the General Government to provide the (great routes of travel leading to the remote parts of the country, while the States themselves ought to look after their local highways. The first great putblic work constructed in America was the turnpike from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, which was cornpleted near the close of the last century, and was for a long time the !reat higLhway across the AlleT,hliany iMountains. This was followed byr the National Road, from AWashlington city to St. Louis, constructed by the U. S. Engineer Corps, at the expense of the General Governm.ent, andcl by the road from Banigor to Ilamnilton, Maine, also built !)v the Government.

The National Road(, one of the best of its kind in the world, was carried successfully over the mountains, across the Olhio, W4 AWheeliiig, and Cincinnati, and completed as far as the State of Illinois; but the rapid growth of railroads has rendered it so comparatively useless that it will hardly be completed to St. Louis. Several other fine roads were constructed by the General Government in various parts of the cotLilntry.

82

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THE UNITED STATES. At the same time that these turnpikes were engaging the attention of the country, the States were urgently entreated to inaugurate a systemn of canals, which should provide cheaper and more abundant transportation between the distant parts of the Union. Washington exerted his influence to secure the speedy completion of canals from the head of tide water on the James and Potomac Rivers, to the Ohio. He appreciated the great advantages which would have been derived fiom the prompt completion of these workls, and was eager to secure them for the St-ate of Virginia. His plans are remarkable for their wisdom and their deep insight into the future, and had they been carried out would, beyond all doubt, have made Norfolk, Virginia, the largest and most important city in America. Pennsylvania and Maryland also began at an early day to lay out extensive canal systems, but, thanks to +thle genius and energy of De Witt Clinton, the State of New York viwas the first to reach the West wvithl her Erie and Hudson Canal, and tllhus secured for her great metropolis the immense advantages whichl have never forsaken it. This canal was opened in 1824. In the West, Ohio and Indianiia were the first to construct such works. Si(nce 185)0, however, the railroads of the country have rendered the fuirther construction of canals unnecessary. In 1860 there were about 5000 miles of canal navigation in the United States. The last, in point of date of construction, but the first in importance, of the public works of the United States, were the railroads. The first railroad in this country was a mnere tramway, for the transportation of granite, from the quarries at Quincy to the Neponsett River, in Massachusetts, constructed in the year 1826. This was followed by the Mauch Chunk Railway, from the coal mines to the Lehigh River, in Pennsylvania, in 1827. These were mere local works, and of but little importance, except in so far as they helped to demonstrate to the public nmind the possibility and usefulness of such enterprises upon a larger scale. Charters for roads of more importance were now obtained iln Massalehtsetts, zNew York, iNvew Jersey, Pennsylvania, Marylan(l and South Carolina, whose examnple was rapidly followed by the other States. In 1828 work was begun on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, and in 1829 onI the South Carolina Railroad-at present two of lle finest works in the country. It was not until about the year 1850, however, that our railroad system began to attain anylthing like its present importance. The following table will show the increase in this branch of our industry Mince 18:38: 81, ii

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THE GREAT REPUBILIC. Xuiilber of miles in 1838 ” ” ” “~ 1842 “, “; “; “

1844 “.”… ” 1846 ‘.’.‘i ” 1848 ” ” ” “18S50 “i ”’ ” 185’ ” ” ” 61854 “

”’ 1856 ”’- ” ” 1858 ” ~ “;’ “1860 ‘ ~’ ” ” 1865 ………. *……

1,843 2,167 4,863 4,285 6,491 8,827 12,841 19,195 23,724 27,158 31,185

35,935 At present the number of miles in operation is about 40,000.

riThere is a continuous railway connection from Bangor, Maine, to New Orleans, on the Gulf coast, and San Francisco on the Pacific coast. All the prominent cities and towns of the Union are connected by means of railways, and the most distant parts of the country are brought within a few days’ travel of each other. The electromagnetic telegraph was invented by Professor Morse, about the year 1840, and in 1844 he erected between Washington and Baltimore, a distance of forty miles, the first line ever established in the United States or in the world. This line was extended northward, in 1845, through Philadelphia and New York, as far as Boston.

The telegraph wires of the United States now form a network over the Republic, and would make a continuous line of more than 60,000 miles. This includes the overland line between the Missouri River and San Francisco, California, and Portland, Oregon. The American wires are also connected with those of Europe by means of the Atlantic cables, between New Foundland and Ireland, and France. It is proposed to construct another line from Portland, Oregon, along the west coast of North America to the northern part of Alaska, firom which a cable is to be laid, vicd Kamtchatka, to the mouth of the Anm]oor River, in Asia, to connect with a line through Asia to St. Petersburg, in Russia. EDUCATION. The first settlers of the States, with a wise foresight, were prompt to provide for the education of their descendants. Almnost their first act was to found a system of common schools, upon which the establishliiients of the present day are modelled. They also made provision for securing the means of instruction in the higher and nobler branches of learning. William and MIary College, in Virginia, Hiarvard Col ,S 4

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THE UNITED STATES. lece, in MIassachutsetts, Yale College, in Connecticut, and Columblia College, in New York, (or King’s College, as it was formerly called,) were founded within a very short period after the settlement of tile Colonies. “The general system of education in the United States may be arranged under three heads, as follows: 1. Elementary or Priniary Edlucation, taLug,ht in the public schools; 2. Academic or Secondary Edtucation, pursued in academies, high schools, private seminaries, etc.; and 3. Collegiate or Superior Education, acquired in such institutionis as embrace a course of study usually made the condition of granting the degree of Bachelor of Arts. In addition to the above, the Hon. Henry Barnard extends tile classification as follows: “4. Professional or Special Education. a. Thleolo,gy. b. Law. c. MAedicine. d. Engineering. e.

Agricul ture. f. Mechanics. g. Commerce. h. Teaching. i. Fine Arts. j.

Deaf-mutes. k. Blind. 1. Idiots. ” 5. Supplemientary Education. a.

Eveneing Schools. b. Lyceums. c. Courses of Lectures. d. Li braries of Circulation. e. Libraries of Reference. f. Adult Schools. ,. Mechanic Societies. ” 6. Reformatory Schools. ” 7. Orphan Houses. “S. Societies for the encouragement and advancement of science, the arts, and education. “

The general system of public instruction in the United States originated with the pilgrim fathers of New England; where, as early as 1628, provision was made for the education of’every child’ in the settlements.

In 1637, a school was ordered to be provided for every neighborhood of 50
families, and another for a higher grade of instruction for every 100
families. A sumII sufficient to maintain these schools was annually raised by a town tax, voluntarily imposed, and each school district drew its proportion of the wholesum for its owni school or schools. Thus the property of the town was made liable for the education of the children.

“The same system, with various modifications, has gradually extended itself to most of the States in the Union, and in part has been acted upon by the General Government. Chancellor Kent says:’ It has been uniformly a part of the land system of the United States to provide for public schools. The Articles of Confederation, 1787, the Acts admitting into the Union, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana, Florida, Arkansas, etc., all provide for the appropriation of 85

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. lands in each township for the use of public schools.’ lands thus appropriated by the Federal Government, 1st, 18o4, is exhibited ill the subjoined table: States ad Territories. Missouri..

Iowa… Wisconsin. California.. Minnesota. Oregon…. New Mexico. Utah…

Florida. Hi lalbama. ississippli Louisiana Arkansas. Ohio MhAliclin.

Indiana Illinois. 1,199,139 9005,144 958,648 6,719,324 5,089,224

12,140,907 7,493,120 6,GS1,707 48,909,535. ” The table given on the following page shows the number of public schools, academies, and colleges, with their incomes and the number of pupils in attendance, and also the number of libraries and volumes, of the several States, as derived from the Census of 18860. ” Mlaine has one pupil at school to every 3‘2 of the whole population; being a greater proportion than in any other State or country. In the whole United States the proportion at school is 1 to 4.9, not including slaves, or 1 to 5‘7, including slaves, either of which is greater than in any other country in the world except Denmark, where the proportion is 1 to 4‘6. “A greatly increased interest in the subject of popular education has been manifested within the last few years; especially in the Northern and Western States. Public sentiment has demanded a higher standard of qualification in the teachers; and, as a consequence, normal schools, expressly designed for their instruction and training, have been established in several States; besides which, teachers meet regularly in convention, to interchange views upon she best methods of teaching; thus opening a larger field of comparison, and stimulating, thlroughi emulation to far greater efforts for improvement. These conventions, we believe, are now held in every free State in the Union, acnd in some States they assemble twice annually in each county; the sessions generally continuing a week. The classification of schools is also undergoing a thorough revision. Union schools, or what is termed the’graded system,’ whichl comprises high, grammar, -

Lip)iiicott’s Gazetteer, l). 1994. 86 The ainoiiiit of up to JanuarvI St,t,,. Acres. Ac,,s. I I I OOS, 1)30 902, i 74 837,584 7S6,044 SS6,460

704,4SS 1,067,397 650,317 97S,7,55 Total.

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THIE UNITED STATES. .:.r~…..=.::~..:m ~:: P-.:…….

C:::::::::::::::::::::::::::……… -. …_ ,….. — ~.1..o… Q 3m -* F3 2 0 C ‘ O ti 0 Qt ‘ C < Li; ~~t~: t –- - –— i to C ~tO H C C.

>1 1 ) - ~D 1-C: tDL cC ~. C T0 C _ ce S O v IA <D < bOS co 9 tO s w t w t 0 H~~~ C  * DQOs<t OX:Orst - ntot ? I . c C. es I z ecc ep : - 

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. intermediate, and primary schools, are being established in all the principal cities, towns, and villages. By placing the classes in the intermediate and primary schools, in charge of competent female instructors, school committees are enabled to secure the services of male teachers of the highest qualifications for the more advanced pupils, without increasing the aggregate cost of tuition. “The education bestowed in many of the high schools, especially in the Free Academy of New York, and the Philadelphia High School, is, in the opinion of competent judges, equal, if not superior, in all that relates to the practical pursuits of life, to that of any other institution, of whatever class, in this or any other country. “It should be remarked that not only in the public schools (which are especially referred to in the foregoing observations), but also in the various private schools throughout the country, renewed zeal has been manifested, and important improvements have been made.”* Scientific Institutions are yet in their infancy in the United States, but are growing in number and importance. One of them, the Smithsonian Institution, already holds a deservedly high rank in this country, as well as in the estimation of Europeans. THE PRESS. The press of the United States has kept pace with the wonderful growth of the country. In 1860, the number of newspapers and periodicals published in the States and Territories of the Union, was as follows: Dailies………

Semi-WVeeklies…… TriWeeklies,….. Weeklies,……….

Monthlies,…….. Quarterlies,……. Annuals,……….. Total……

These were divided as follows: Political,…………….

Religious,…………… Literary,……………

Aliscellaneous,…………. * Lip)pincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1995. 88 . 387

79 86 . 3,173 . 280 30 16 . 4,051 …….. …….. ……. ….. 3,242

‘177 …. 298 0 34

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___ - - __ _ ]-N ~~~~~TI~~~f,,-I lIA,T G f~‘TDS’~
i~~s~-,Iffi~~, CA’FI.~~~~

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T IIE UNITED STATES. Their circulation was as follow Dailies,………

Semi-WVeeklies,….. Tri-S,eeklies…… Weeklies,……..

ilolthlies,…….. Quarterlies,…… Anniuals,……. Taking the aggregate annual circulation (the above statements representing the aggregate number of copies printed at each stated issue of the journals), we find that the whole inumber of copies of newspapers and periodicals printed annually in this country, in 1860, was 927,951,548. POST OFFICES.

According to the statistics of the Post Office Departmnent of the United States for the year ending June 30th, 1863, there were 29,047 post offices in the States and Territories of the Union. The agg(regate length of mail routes was 139,598 miles. The annual expenditures of the Department were $11,314,206, and the receipts $11,163,789, leaving a deficit of $150,417.

The receipts for the year endiiing June 30th, 1865, were 814,556,158, and the expenditures $13,694,728, leaving a surplus of $861,430. The number of postage stamps issued during the latter year was 387,419,455, which yielded the sumI of $12,099,787. The number of stamped envelopes sold, 25,040,425, which yielded $724,135. The foreign postage for the same year reached the sum of $1,819,928. PRELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. The Constitution of the United States forbids the establishment of any State religion, and places all religious sects upon a footing of equality by leaving every citizen of the Republic “free to worship God after the dictates of his own conscience.” All churches and ministers, therefore, derive their incomes from the voluntary contributions of their own congregations. The principal religious sects, and their respective strength, in the year 1860, are shown by the following table: *Appleton’s Cyclopedia, vol. xv., ). 814. 89

. 1,478,435 . 175,165 . 107,170 . 7,581,930 . 3,411,959 . 101,000 .

807,750 …….. …….. ……..

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS IN 1860. s~~~~~ A’, _ 8 C.rce liitr.“t.brs African

MIethodists………………………………………… Baptists, Regular…………………………………………..

Anti-Mlission………………………………………….. Seventh Day…………………………………………..

Six-Principle…………………………………………

Free-Will……………………………………………… River Brethren……………………………………….

Winebrennarians………………………………………

Dunkers……………………………………………….

Mlennonites…………………………………………… Disciples (Campbellites)………………………………….. Christians (Unitarian)……………………………………. Congregationalists, Orthodox……………………………. “

Unitarian……………………………

Episcopal……………………………………………………

Friends, Orthodox…………………………………………. “

Hicksite…………………………………………. German Evangelical………………………………………. German Reformed………………………………………….

Jews…………………………………………………………

Lutherans…………………………………………………..

Methodists, Episcopal……………………………………..

Methodist Episcopal Church, South………………..

Protestant………………………………………………

WIesleyan………………………………………………

Mormons…………………………………………………….

Presbyterians, Old School………………………………… New School……………………………………………

Cumberland……………………………………………

United………………………………………………… Associate Reformed…………………………………. Protestant Reformed Dutch……………………………… Roman

Catholic……………………………………………. Second Advent……………………………………………..

Shakers………………………………………………………

Swedenborgians………………………………………….. United Bretheren (Moravians)…………………………… United Brethren In Christ………………………………..

Universalists………………………………………………..

CITIES. The largest city in the United States is the city of New York, -which, in 1860, had a population of 813,669, and in 1870 a popula tion of 942,337, according to the census of that year; though there can be but little doubt that the actual population exceeds 1,000,000. The following table shows the population of the principal cities of the Union according to the last three censuses: CITIES. |s o,o. i1860. 18i. CITIIES. 18 0. 18.

1S50. Philadlelphia Penn…,022 6D,29 40S,762 Buffao,……….. 711,5

81,129 42,261 Brooklyn, N. Y…….. 396,001266,661 96,838 Washington, ).

C…. 109,21)4 61,122 40,001 St. Louis, Mo……….,10,864 212,418 77,860

Newati, N. J……… 105,059 71,94.1 38,894 Chicago, Ill…………

23,977 109,260 29,963 Louisville, Kv………R 100,754 6 8,0:,9 43.194

Baltimore, -MId………. 29;I,3541212418 169,054 C(,leveland, Ohio……

925.846 43,417 17,)4 Boston, M1ass……….. 250,.526 177.841 136,881

Pitts)urg, Pa………. 86,2)35 49,217 466 01 Cincinnati, Ohio……

216,2391161,014 115,4361 Jersey (City, iN. J….. 82,547 29,22 6 685) New Orleans, La…… 191.,32216S,675 116,375i Detroit, Micl……….i 79,550

45,619 21,0)19 San Francisco, Cal… 149,482] 56,802 34,87o01lMilwaukee, Wis…… 71,499 4S,246 20,061 I I 90 N A’IT E S. 12,5 i,soo 56 1 8 1,298
so 275 160 300 2,000 2,200 2,66 251 2,045 I,o 0 1.70 2,017 9,992 523 2,767
l’IS8 63,1 …….. 6 40 2,517 32 913 1,202 lli.i,tei,s. 1 1)3 8,9o 850 75

16 1,246 65 140 250 250 2,000 ],,500 2,531 297 2,079 50 3 60 1,134 6,934

2,591 2,200 565 408 94 41.0 2,317 46 1,278 693 .limbers. 26,746 1,0,36,756

60,000 6,736 3,000 61,441 7,000 14,000 8,700 36,280 350,000 1.80,000

257,634 30,000 160,000 54,000 40,000 83,000 79,000 200,000 232,780 98S,523

499,694 99,000 21,000 61,000 300,814 55,547 2,009 50,304 ?,,177,140 20,000

4,700 1,850 8,25 82,013 600,000

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THE UNITED STATES. CITIES. 1870. 1860. 1850. CITIES. 1870. p860.

1850.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

CITIES. Bangor, Me……….. Lancaster, Pa………. Savannah, Ga……… Poughkeepsie, N. Y.. Camden, N. J………. Davenport, Iowa….. St. Paul, Minn……… Erie, Pa…………….. Wheeling, W.

Va…… Norfolk, Va………… Taunton, Mass……… Chelsea, Mats………. Dubuque, Iowa…….. Leavenworth, Kan… Fort Wayne, Ind…… Springfield, Ill……… Auburn, N. Y………. Newburgh, N.

Y…… Atlanta, Ga…………. Norwich, Conn…….. Sacramento, Cal……. Omnaha, Neb………… Elmira, N. Y……….. Lockport, N.

Y…….. Gloucester, Mass…… Cohoes, N. Y……….. New Brunswick, N.

J. New Albany, Ind….. Galveston, Texas…… Newburyport, Mass…

Alexandria, Va…….. Wilmington, N. C….. Newport, R. I……… Little Rock, Ark…… Concord, N. H……… Des Moines, Iowa….. Waterbury, Conn…… Nashua, N. H………. Raleigh, N. C………. New London, Conn… Portland, Oreg……… OVirginia City, Nev… ITopekai, Kan……….. CITIES. Albany, N. Y………. Providence, R. I…..

Rochester, N. Y……. Alleghany City, Pa… Richmond, Va……… New Haven, Conn…. Charleston, S. C……. Troy, N. Y………….. Syracuse, N.Y……… Worcester, Mass……. Lowell, Mass……….. Memphis, Tenn…….. Cambridge, Mass…… Hartford, Conn…….. Indianapolis, Ind….. Scranton, Pa……….. Reading, Pa………… Columbus, Ohio……. Patterson, N. J…….. Kansas City, Mo…… Dayton, Ohio……….. Mobile, Ala…………. Portland, Me………..

Wilmington, Del…… Lawrence, Mass……. Utica, N. Y………….

Toledo, Ohio……….. Charlestown, Mass… Lynn, Mass…………. Fall River, Mass…… Springfield, Mass….. Nashville, Tenn……. Covington, Ky……… Salem, Mass………… Quincy, Mass………. Manchester, N.

H….. Harrisburg, Pa…….. Trenton, N. J………. Peoria, Ill…………… Evansville, Ind…….. New Bedford, Mass… Oswvego, N. Y………. Elizabeth, N. J…….. Elizabeth, N.

J…….20,838……………Topeka, Ran………5,790 GOVERNMENT. The Government of the United States is a Confederation of the various States, each and all of which have delegated a certain share of their powers to a General Government for their mutual benefit and protection. This General Government is controlled by a written Constitution, which has been ratified by each State, and has thus been made the supreme law of the land. By the terms of this Constitu tion, all powers not granted by it to the General Government are reserved to the several States and to the people thereof, but in the exercise of the powers delegated by the Constitution, the General Government is independent of and supreme over all the States. The Government of the Republic is divided into three coordinate branches-the Executive, the Legislative, and the Juciciary. I 91 1870. 69,422 68,906 62,315 53,181 51,038 50,840 48,956 45,481 43,058

41,105 40,928 40,226 39,634 37,180 48,244 35,093 33,932 33,745 33,582

32.260 32,579 32,184 31.414 30,841 28,921 28,804 28,546 28,323 28,233

26,786 26,703 25,865 24,505 24,117 24,05.3 23,536 23,109 22,874 22,849

22,830 21,320 20,910 20,838 1860. 62,367 50,666 48,204 28,702 37,910

39,267 40,522 39,235 28,119 24,960 36,827 22,623 26,060 29,152 18,611

9,223 23,162 18,554 19,586 26,‘6l 29,258 26,341 21,258 17,639 13,768

25,065 19,083 14,026 15,199 16,988 22,252 20,107 13,405 i ,‘6 11,484

22,300 16,816 1850. 50,763 41,513 36,403 2 i,’ i O’ 20,345 42,985 28,785

22,271 17,049 33,383 8,839 15,215 13,555 8.034 17, 2 11,334 10,977 20,515

20,815 13,979 8,282 3 9 17,216 14,257 11,524 11,766 10,165 2 3,235 16,443

12,205 1870. 20,500 20,233 28,235 20,080 20,045 20,042 20,031 19,646

19,282 19,256 18,629 18,547 18,404 17,849 17,7-18 17,365 l,225 17,014

16,986 16,653 16,484 16,083 15,863 15,458 15,387 15,357 15,059 14,273

13,818 13,595 13,670 13,446 12.521 12,380 12,241 12,035 1 0,826 10,543

10,149 9,576 8,293 7,008 5,790 860 17,603 ii.,267 10,401 14,620 15,376

13,395 14,048 13,785 I i,’ 7’ 7,307 13,401 10,065 16,‘i i5, 2,84 1850.

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Executive branch consists of a President and VicePresident, elected for four years by electors chosen by the popular vote in each State. The number of electors chosen in each State is equal to the number of Senators and Representatives from that State at the time of the election. Thus a State having four Representatives in the lower House of Congress, and two Senators in the upper House, is entitled to six electors in an election for President. It is usual for the electors to cast their votes in accordance with the will of the majority of the people of the State, as expressed by the popular vote, but it seems certain that it was the original design of the Constitution that the electors upon being chosen by the people should be free to elect a President of their own choice. A majority of the whole number of electoral votes is necessary to a choice. If no person be chosen, then the names of the three persons receiving the highest number of votes shall be presented to the House of Representatives, which shall proceed to vote by States (each State having but one vote, and a majority of States being necessary to a choice) for President, or VicePresident, as the case may be. In the event of a failure, by both the electors and the House of Representatives, to elect a President before the 4th of March, next following, then the VicePresident shall act as President. In case the electors fail to choose a VicePresident, the Senate of the United States shall proceed to choose a VicePresident from the two highest numbers on the list, a majority of the whole number being necessary to an election. The President of the United States is the Constitutional Commander-in-chlief of the Army and Navy of the United States. He has power to grant reprieves and pardons for offences against the United States, except in cases of impeachment; he makes treaties, with the concurrence of twothirds of the Senate, nominates the members of his cabinet, foreign ministers, and other officers of the United States, which nomination must be confirmed by the Senate before the official can enter upon his office, and, by the terms of the Constitution, may, at his pleasure, remove any officer of the Government subject to his nomination. He may be impeached for high crimes and misdemeanors, and be removed, if convicted. The articles of impeachment must be presented by the House of Representatives, and tried by the Senate, sitting as a high court and presided over by the Chief Justice of the United States. In the event of the death, resignation, or removal of the President, the VicePresident succeeds to his office, and the President pro tempore of the Senate becomes the acting Vice 92

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THIE UNITED STATES. President of the United States. It is the duty of the President to execute, or cause to be executed, the laws of the United States as prescribed by Congress. The VicePresident is ex-oficio President of the Senate, and in case of the death or disability of the President, as explained above, becomes President of the United States.

Should he die, resign, or be removed from his office, the President pro tempore of the Senate becomes the President of the United States. In the event of the disability of all three of the officials namled above, the Speaker of the House of Representatives becomes the President of the United States. The President pro tempore of the Senate is usually chosen near the close of each session with a view to the contingency we have mentioned. The Speaker of the House of Representatives is elected at the beginning of each Congress-that is, every two years. The Legislative branch consists of a Senate and House of Representatives, which constitute the Congress of the United States. The Senate is composed of two members from each State, chosen by the Legislature thereof, for six years, so that one-third of the whole number of Senators shall retire at the end of every second year. A Senator must be at least thirty years of age, and must have been nine years a citizen of the United States. The Senate has power to ratify or reject all treaties between the United States and Foreign Powers, and to confirm or reject nominations to office under the Government submitted to it by the President of the United States. The House of Representatives is composed of Representatives chosen by the people of the States once every two years. A Representative must be at least 25 years of age, have been seven years a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the State from which he is chosen.

Representatives are apportioned among the States according to the number of inhabitants, excluding idiots and Indians not taxed. The ratio is changed with the increase of population. The number of Representatives is limited by law to 241, besides delegates from each Territory. Each State, whatever its population, must have at least one Representative. Delegates from the Territories are allowed seats on the floor of the House, and are permitted to participate in the debates, but have no votes. All bills for raising revenue and for taxation must originate in the House of Representatives. The Senate represents the States of the Union in their sovereign capacity (each State being made equal in that body by having two votes), and the House of Representatives the people. 93

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Congress has power to levy and collect taxes, duties, imposts, and excises, to provide for the common defence and general welfare of the United States, but is required to make all such impositions uniform throughout the United States. It has power to borrow money on the credit of the United States, to make laws for the regulation of the foreign and inter-State trade of the Union, and to regulate the traffic with the Indian tribes; to make all laws respecting the subjects of naturalization and bankruptcies; to regulate the coinage and value of money, to fix the value of foreign money, and to adjust the stand ard of weights and measures; to provide for the punishment of per sons counterfeiting the money or securities of the United States; to establish post-offices and post-roads; to regulate the granting of copy rights and patents; to regulate the courts of the United States, inferior to the Supreme Court; to define and punish piracies and offences committed on the high seas; to declare war, conclude peace, and regu late all matters appertaining thereto; to raise an army and navy, and provide for their support; to call forth the militia when their services are needed, and provide laws for their government while in the ser vice of the United States; and to exercise exclusive jurisdiction over all forts, arsenals, and other property of the United States, and over the District of Columbia, in which the seat of government is located. A bill must receive a majority of the votes necessary to forin a quorum in each house, and receive the signature of the President of the United States before it can become a law. Should the President object to a bill, or a part of its provisions, he must send it, with his objections in writing, to the house in which it originated, when that house must proceed to reconsider it, and if twothirds of each house sustain the bill, in spite of his objections, it becomes a law without the approval of the President. If the President does not return a bill in ten days, Sabbaths excluded, it becomes a law without his approval, provided Congress is still in session at the expiration of the ten days; but if Congress shall adjourn before the ten days have expired, the President may defeat the bill by keeping it over until after the adjournment. This is usually termed a “pocket veto.” The Judiciary branch of the Government consists of one Supreme Court, 9

Circuit Courts, and 47 District Courts. The Supreme Court is the highest judicial tribunal in the Union, and consists of one Chief Justice and 8

Associate Justices, who are appointed by the President, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate, and retain their offices during good behavior. The Supreme Court holds 94

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THE UNITED STATES. one session annually, commencing the first Monday in December. A Circuit Court is held twice a year in each State by a judge of the Su preme Court and the District Judge of the State or district in which the court is held. The District Courts are held by special judges, usually one for each district. The United States or Federal Courts have jurisdiction in all cases of law and equity arising under the Constitution and laws of the United States, and treaties made under their authority; in all cases concerning foreign ministers and agents; in all cases of marine jurisdiction; in all cases in which the United States is a party; in all cases between States, or between a State and a citizen of another State, or between citizens of different States, between citizens of the same State claiming lands under the grants of another State, and between a State and citizens thereof, and foreign states, citizens, or subjects.

Each District Court of the United States is provided with a prosecuting attorney and a marshal. The States are sovereign in themselves, and as regards their own affairs. The Government of each one is similar to that of the United States, consisting of an Executive or Governor, a Legislature, composed of two houses, all elected by the people, and a judiciary. Each State is independent of all the others, and subject only to the Constitution of the United States. Each is required to accord full faith and credit to the transactions of the others, provided they are not contrary to the supreme law of the land. The States may not enter into any combinations with each other not provided for by the Constitution, nor keep troops in time of peace, nor make war nor conclude peace. A State may not impose any restrictions upon the trade between the States, or levy or collect imposts of any kind upon any but its own citizens. The Territories are the common property of the United States, and are governed by Legislatures elected by their own inhabitants, and by Governors appointed by the President of the United States. A Territory having a number of inhabitants sufficient to entitle it to one representative in Congress, may be admitted into the Union as a State. It must first adopt a State Constitution, which must be ratified by the people of the Territory at the polls, and submitted to Congress for its approval. If approved by Congress, the President shall issue his proclamation declaring the Territory duily admitted as a State, and the new State shall ratify the Constitution of the United Stat es. Titles of nobility, acts of attainder, and ex-post facto laws are for 95

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. bidden by the Constitution of the United States, and by the States. No criminal can be sheltered by the authorities of a State or Territory in which he may take refuge, from the authorities of the State or Territory in which his offence was committed. Citizenship of a State confers all such privileges in the several States. Trial by jury is secured for all offences. No preference shall be shown to any religion by the Government, but equal rights and privileges are secured to all sects.

The privacy of the house of a citizen is secured against unlawful violation by search, seizure, or by quartering a soldier upon him in time of peace. Excessive bail or fines, and cruel and unusual punishments are forbidden, and no one may be tried twice for a capital offence. THE ARMY.

The military establishment of the United States, as reorganized by the Act of July 28th, 1866, consists of 10 regiments, or 120 companies, of cavalry, 5 regiments, or 60 companies, of artillery, and 45 regiments, or 450 companies, of infantry, making an effective force (should the maximum strength of all the regiments be attained) of 76,000 men, divided as follows: artillery 7000, cavalry 14,000, infantry 55,000. At present the effective strength of companies has been fixed as follows: for infantry, cavalry, and artillery (heavy), 64 privates, and for light artillery 122
privates; making an aggregate strength of 54,302 men. Besides this force, the militia of the States, which in many of them is well organized and effective, may be called into service by the General Government in case of emergency. The promptness with which such appeals have always been responded to by the States, shows that the real available force of the Republic is more than 1,000,000 men, the majority of whom are at present veteran soldiers. The President of the United States is the Constitutional Conmmander-in-Chief of the army, but it is usual for him to relinquish the active management of its affairs to the War Department and to the General of the Army, who is its immediate Commander-in-Chlief, and has his headquarters in Washington City. The other officers of the regular establishment are: One lieutenant-general; 5 major-generals; 10
brigadier-generals; 1 chief of staff to the general, brigadier-general; 1
adjutant-general, brigadier-general; 1 judge-advocate-general, brigadier-general; 1 quartermaster-general, brigadier-general; 1
commissarygeneral, brigadier-general; 1 surgeon-general, brigadier-general; 96

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THES UNITED STATES. 1 paymaster-general, brigadier-general; 1 chief of engineers, brigadier-general; 1 chief of ordnance, brigadier-general; 87
colonels; 99 lieutenant-colonels; 327 majors; 835 captains; 857 1st lieutenants; 583 2d lieutenants; 6 chaplains. A considerable force is required at all times on the western frontier to protect the settlers against the attacks of the Indians. The remainder of the army is employed in garrisoning and protecting the forts, .rsenals, and other public property of the Republic. THE NAVY. The naval establishment of the United States consists of 206 ves sels, carrying 1743 guns. Of these, 35 are first-rates, carrying 662 guns. Each vessel is of at least 2400 tons; the second-rates, of from 1200 to 2400 tons, are 37 in number, and carry 483
guns; the third rates, of from 600 to 1200 tons, number 76 vessels, and carry 414 guns; the fourthl-rates, under 600 tons, are 38 in number, and carry 184 guns. Of the above force, 52 are iron-clads, carrying 129 guns; 95 are screw steamers, carrying 938 guns; 28 are paddle-wheel steamers, carrying 199 guns; and 31 are sailing vessels, carrying 477 gllnIs. The cactive list of the service is as follows: One admiral, I vice-admiral, 10
rear-admirals, 25 commodores, 49 captains, 89 commanders, 139
lieutenant-commanders, 45 lieutenants, 30 masters, 52 ensigns, 157
midshipmen, 67 surgeons, 37 passed assistant-surgeons, 36
assistant-surgeons, 79 paymasters, 56 passed assistant-paymasters, 52
chief-engineers, 90 first assistant-engineers, 137 second assistant-engineers, 24 third assistant-engineers, 19 chaplains, 11
professors, 7 naval constructors, 5 assistant naval constructors, 52
boatswains, 57 gunners, 39 carpenters, 31 sailmakers. In the Naval Academy, there are 348 midshipmen undergoing instruction, 16 third assistant-engineers, and 1 cadet engineer. The retired list is as follows: Eighteen rear-admirals, 60 commodores, 31 captains, 17 commanders, 3
lieutenant-commanders, 6 masters, 1 midshipman, 24 surgeons, 3 passed assistant-surgeons, 3 assistant-surgeons, 14 paymasters, 14
assistant-engineers, 8 chaplains, 2 professors, 6 boatswains, 6 gunners, 6
carpenters, 5 sailmakers. On the 1st of January, 1867, there were 115
vessels, carrying 1029 guns, in commission. The following is a list of vessels comprising the squadrons on active duty: 97 7

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TIIE GREAT’ REPUBLIC. Vessels. Guns. . 10 113 ~ 7 78 . 1l 135 . 8 75 . 10

71 . 10 122 ~ 7 67 . 67 661 European Squadron Asiatic ” North Atlantic “

South ” ” 7 Gulf 7 North Pacific ” South ” ” 6 FINANCES. The following is the statement of the Secretary of the Treasury of the public debt of the United States on the 1st of December, 1870: DEBT BEARING INTEREST IN COIN.

Au r Ch cmount When Redeemable Outstanding. or Poyable. $ 20,000,000

Payable 15 years fl’olL J.t. 1, 189…….. 4,410,000 Payable 10 ye.ars fi’ots J.tt. 1, 1861……. 18,415,000 Payable after Dec.

31,1880……………… 945,000 Redeeniable 20 years firoti July 1, 1861.. 1S9,318,100 P,ayable at optioin of Governnent after 20 years from June 30, 1861………….. 436,209,300 Redeemable after 5 and payable 20
years I fion May 1 1862……………………….. 75,000,000l Pt-.bUle after June 30, 1881…………….. 194,567,300 Re(leeul.tt,ile after 10
and payable 40 years from March 1,1864……………… 3,123,600

Redeemable after 5 atnd payatble 20 years fi’om Nov.

1,1864……………………….. 105,141,750 Redeemable after 5 andl patyable 20 years from Nov. 1, 1864…..,…………………..

186,799,450 Redeemable after 5 attd payable 20 yeats from Nov.

1,1865………………………. 270,309,350 lRedleema’ble aftet 5 and payable 20 years from July 1, S1865………………………..

359,846,000 Redeemable after 5 a payable 20 years fom July 1,1867……………………….. 39,667,250 Redeemable aftet 5 and payable 20 yettls i$1,94375100 o July 1, 1868…………………. A ccru ed ‘Interest. $ 416,666 67 91,875 00 460,375 00 23,625 00 4,732,952 50

2,481,046 50 1,875,000 00 2,432,091 25 15,618 00 525,708 75 933,997 25

6,757,733 75 8,496,150 00 991,681 25 $30,-34,520 92 10,419,’)30 15

$40,654,451 07 Aggregate of Debt bear’g Coitn

I,,t…1$1,943,752,100’o,Jmy, xo- -. ––––––— Coupons due not presentetd for
payment…………………………………………………

Total…………………………………………………………………………………….

DEBT BEARING NO INTEREST. Authorizing Character of Amount Acts. Issue.

Outstanding. July 17,1861, Feb. 12,1862.. Demanl Nte……….. No interest………………………………… $ 102,321 00 Febt. 25, 1862, July 11. Uttited States Legtl No itt. NewIssue. $232,68,5)’) 356000,000 0 1862, March 3,1863…..f Teder Notes…….. Series 69…

123,33,500 356,000,000 0 Fi,st Seties……………4,445,329 87 Jtliy 17, 1862, March 3,’ Fractional Currety. Se.ond Series………. 3,246,324 41

39,166,916 08 1863, Jtane 30,1864.f lt 7,045,600 34 Fotttrtlh Series………… 23,529,661 44 3Ia.-‘lh, 1863…………….. Certif.

Gold Deposit… No) itnterest…………………………………

16,532,620 00 Aggregatte of Debt lte:ting no i e
terest………………………………………………..

$411,851,857 08 Total A.th.i.i.g Ch… t,, f June 14‘581

Bonds…………… I”,’ ct. Jun,, 22, 16lBon,ls… 5 et. Feb. 8,‘61

B.ids, 1881…….6 et. March 2,161 Bds. (Oregon) 181 6 per et. July 17
and Bond,. 1881…. 6 per ct. Aug. 5, -‘61 J Feb. 25, 162 Bonds, 5-20’s per t. March 3,163 Bonds, 1881……. ct. 3,164 Bonds, 10-10’s….15 per et. March 3,‘64 Bonds, 5-50’s 6 l,er et. June 30,164 Bond,,,, 5-20’s 6 per et. March 3,165 Bonds, 5-20’s 6 per et. Marcil 3,165 Bonds, 5-20’s 6 per et. M,ti-cli 3,‘61” Bonds, 5-20’s 6 per et.

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THE UNITED STATrES. DEBT ON WHICH INTEREST HAS CEASED SINCE MATURITY.

Authorizing Character of Acts. Issue Rate. Airil 15, 1842…..

Bonds……… 60 6 e 3……… 6 per cent Jan. 28,1847…… Bon d s 6
per cent……….. March 31,1848….. Bond s per cent……………..6
per cent 1210 Sept. 9,1850……… Bonds, Texas Ind.. 5 per cent………

Prior to 187…….. Treasury Notes 1 m. to 6 per ct… Dec. 23, 1857……. Treasury Notes. 3 to 5-per cet…t ch 2, 1861…… Treasury Notes…..6 per cent……. July 17, 1861…….. Treasury Notes, 3
years……………. 7 3-10 per cent… Match 3,1863……Treasury Notes, 1 and 2 years…….. 5 per cent……… 3Iarch 3, 1863…….

Certificates of I,,Match 3,1863, and debtedness…….. 6 per cent 0A d 1

Jne 30,1864….. Compound Itter est Notes……….. 6 per cent 1, d Amo un t Outstanding. $ 6,000 00 2,150 00 24,900 00 242,000 00 89,625 35 2,000

00 3,200 00 23,350 00 223,882 00 5,COO 00 1,995,92 0 00 180,810 00 J1une 10,1867, and Iay 15, 1868……………… 380,111 04 Oct. 15, 1866…………… 7,444 24 June 30, 1864……. Temporary Loan… June 30,1864, and March 3, 1865…. Treasury Notes, 3 years…………….

542,250 00 Aug. 15, 1 867, and Junte o1 {tnld Jl,,y 15,1868.. ~3,341,087

35 .., s. _….., ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~,…… Tge.ofdtal whche itterest hscae………………..l.y…. I, I.5 4 Total accrued iiterest………………………………………………$418,503 24

DEBT BEARING INTEREST IN LAWFUL MONEY. Authorizing Character of Amount When Redeema.bl Accrued ~~Acts. 0 Issue. Rate. Outstanding. r Pyae.

Interest. __ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_o P iybe ._, March 2,1867 andl July 25, 1868….Certificates………… 3 per ct. $45,050,000 00 On demitd (int. estimitted).. $182,584 34 July 23,1868…..Navy Pension Fund.3 per ct 14,000,000 01 Interest only apl)lictble to payment of pensiost…….. 175,000 00 July 8,1870……. Cert. indebt’…….. 4 per ct. 678,000 00 September 1, 1875…………. 6,7 0 00 Aggreg. of debt bearing currency interest………… $59,728,000 00 Accrued interest………. $364,36-t 31 RECAPITULATION Amt. Outstanding. Interest.

$1,943,752,100 00 $40,654,451 07 Debt bear. coin interest f Bonds att 5
per cent…………… Debt bearing interest in lawful motney: Certificates at 3 per cent………………………………. Nttvy Pension Fund at 3 per cent,……………………. Certificates at 4 per cent………………………………. Debt on which interest has ceased since imtaturity…….. Debt bearing no interest: Demand and Legal-tender notes………………………. Fractional currency…………………………………….. Certificates of gold deposited………………………….. Total amount outstanding……………………………………………. Total debt, principal and interest to date, including interest due and unpaid…………….. $2,460,130,363 08 Amount in Treasury: Coin………………………………………………………

$97,368,577 81

Currency………………………………………………..

28,453,290 62 125,821,868 43 Debt, less amount in the Treasury……………………………………………………………………2,334,308,494

65 Debt, less amount in the Treasury on the 1st
ultimo……………………………………………..2,341,784,355

55 Decrease of debt during the past
month……………………………………………………………..

7,475,860 90 Decrease of debt since March 1,

1870……………………………………………………………….

104,019,982 52 Decrease of Debt since Mlarch 1, 1869, 21 months, as shown by the - monthly statements of the Secretaty of the Treasury………………… $ 191,154,765 36 I 99 .4 Ace,,.d I.te”,.t 
i.$ 360 00 741 00 1,281 00 12,100 00 2,938 76 108 00 195 00 852 30 12,266

28 313 48 M.t.d. Dec. 31, 1862………….. Dec. 31, 1867 July 1, 168,9
mos. iit… Dec. 31,1864…………… At various d,,ttes……… Marcb 1, 1859………… April and May, 186:3…, ,,g. 19 & Oct. 1, 1864.. Jan.

7 to Api-il 1, 1866… t v,,i-ious dates in 1866 4, 5, 6 per cent… 3-10
per cent… 19,792 14 Aggreg. of d Ch.,.,ot,, f $ 218,977,300 00

1,724,774,800 00 45,050,000 00 14,000,000 00 678,000 00

…………………. 59,728,000 00, 364,364 34 3,341,087 36 438,503 24

31-16,102,321 00 39,16f,,916 08 16,582,620 00 411,851,857 08 2,418,673,044

43 41,457,318 65

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. BONDS ISSUED TO THE PACIFIC R. R.‘s INT. PAYABLE IN

LAWFUL MONEY. Authurizing Amount When Redeemable Acts. Character of Issue.

Rate of mt. Outstanding. er payable. July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64….. July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64….. July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64….. July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64….. July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64….. July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64….. Bonds Union Pacific Company……………….. Bonds Kansas Pacific, late Union Paicfic, Eastern

Division……………………………… Bonds Sioux City and Pacific………………… Bonds Central

Pacific…………………………. Bonds Central Branch U. P., assignees of Aclsison and Pike’s Peak…………………… Bonds Western Pacific………………………… Total issued………………………………………………………………….

Interes t paid Interest r e by paid by trans. United States. mails, etc.

Auth Itert Payable. Inatest. mas yet id. July 1,‘2, & Jan 1 and July 1,} 6
per ct. $ 680,912 80 July 2 1 4 J and JulIy 1.) July 1,‘62, and Jt 2,‘64……. Jan. 1 and July 1…..6 per ct. 157,575 00 July 1,‘62, and Jly 2,‘64…….u Jan. and Jly 1 6….6 per ct. 40, 708 00 July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64…… Jan. 1 and July 1, Jan. 1 and July 1 6 per ct. 647,025 00

July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64……. Jan. 1 and July 1…… 6 per ct. 40,000

00 July 1,‘62, and July 2,‘64…… Jan. 1 and July 1…… 6 per ct.

49,250 00 Total issued………………………………………….

$1,615,470 8$ The foregoing is a correct statement of the Public Debt, as appears from the books and Treasurer’s returns in the Department at the close of business on the last day of November, 1870. (Signed) GEO’RGE S.

BOUTWELL, Secretary of the Treasury. The revenues for the fiscal year ending June 30th, 1868, were $405,000,000, and the expenditures $377,000,000, leaving in the Treasury a balance of $28,000,000. Of the expenditures for the year given above, $79,000,000 were extraordinary. On the 1st of January, 1867, there were in the United States 1644 banks existing under the National Bank Act of the United States; and also 297
banks operating under the laws of their respective States; making a total of 1941 banks doing business in the Republic. They employed an aggregate capital of $486,258,464, divided amongst the two classes as follows: National Banks, $419,779,739, State Banks, $66,478,725. The following table, taken from the statements of the National Banking Association of the United States, will show the condition of the National Banks in January, 1867: I f I 100 Whe. Rad..bl,, .,, P..v.bl,,. 30 years from date.

A.th.,i.i.g At,,. Ch.,.t f I..,a. A,,,.t .t. f I.t. O.t.,t..di.g. 6 per ct. 27,236,512 0 6 per ct. 6 per ct. 6 per ct. 6,303,000 00 1,628,320 00

25,881,000 00 30 years from date. 30 years from date. 30 years from date.

1,600,000 00 1,970,000 00 30 years from date. 30 years from date. 6 per ct. 6 per ct. 64,618,832 0 B.I..e, f I.t. p.id by J.it,,d St.t. 3,713,371

05 $1,434,952 33 1,212,993 09 724,823 67 194,207 89 396 08 3,261,767 84

241,638 70 301,808’-? 6 7,401 92 i.-I,197 36 8,281 25 $8,815,345 49

$2,41-7,493 95. $2,278,418 72 488,169 42 193,811 81 3,020,129 14 294,406

34 122,916 11 $6,397,851 51

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THEl UNITED STATES. RESOURCES. Loans and Discounts,…… Over Drafts,……… Real Estate, etc……… Expense Account,…….

Premiums,………. Cash Items,……… Due from National Banks,.24 Due from other Banks,…. Bonds for Circulation….. Other United States Bonds,… Bills of other Banks,….. Specie,………… Lawful Money,……. Stocks, Bonds, and Mortgages,0 Aggregate,………

LIABILI’rIES. Capital Stock paid in,……. Surplus Fund,…….. National Bank-notes,……. State Bank-notes,…….. Individual Deposits,…….

United States Deposits,…… To United States Disbursing Officers, Dividends Unpaid……. Due to National Banks,….. Due to other Banks and Bankers,. Profits,……….. Other items, Aggregate,……… HISTORY.

There is reason to believe that the savages who were found in America by the first European settlers were not the original inhabitants of the Continent, but that they were preceded at a very remote period by another and a more powerful race, unknown and long extinct, but which has left vague evidence of its existence in the curious mounds and earthworks which are to be seen in various parts of the Mississippi Valley. At the time of its discovery by the whites, however, the red men were the sole human occupants of the Continent, which was covered with vast woods and plains abounding with game of every description, the pursuit of which formed the principal occupation of the natives, and furnished them with food and clothing. 101 $608,411,902 18,861,138 2,795,322 2,852,945 . 101,330,984

92,492,446 12,981,445 . 339,180,700 88,940,000 20,381,726 16,634,972 .

186,511,927 15,072,738 $1,506,448,245 I I 59,967,222 . 291,093,294

6,961,499 . 565,179,944 27,225,663 2,275,3S5 92,755,561 24,322,614

26,S77,324 $1,506,448,245

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Indians were really one people in physical appearance, man ners, customs, religion, and in the observances of their social and political systems, but were divided into numerous tribes, each of which had a dialect distinct from that of the others. The tribes were for tile most part bitterly hostile to, and constantly engaged in war with each other. They are generally divided into eight nations, speaking eight radically distinct languages. These were: I. The Algonquins, who inhabited the territory now comprised in the six New England States, the eastern part of New York and Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina as far south as Cap)e Fear, a large part of Kentucky and Tennessee, and nearly all of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, and MIinnesota. This nation was subdivided into the following tribes: the’(nistenaux, Ottawas, Chippewas, Sacs and Foxes, Menomnonees, Miamis, Piankeshaws, Potawatomiies, Kickapoos, Illinois, Shawnees, Powhatans, Corees, Nanticokes, Leinni-Lenapes or Delawares, Moheganas, Narragansets, Pequots, and Abenaklis. II. T’he Iroquois, who occupied almost all of that part of Canada south of the Ottawa, and between Lakes Ontarto, Erie, and Huron, the greater part of New York, and the country lying along the south shore of Lake Erie, now included in the States of Ohio and Pennsylvania. This territory, it will be seen, was completely surrounded by the domains of their powerful and bitter enemies, the Algonquins. The nation was subdivided into the following tribes: the Senecas, Cayugas, Onondagas, Oneidas, and Mohawks. These five were afterwards called by the English the Five Nations. In 1722, they admitted the Tuscaroras into their confederation, and were afterwards called the Six Nations. The nation called itself collectively the Konoskioni, or “Cabin-builders.” The Algonquins termed them Mingoes, the French, Iroquois, and the English, Mohawks, or Mingoes. III. The Catawbas, who dwelt along the banks of the Yadkin and Catawba Rivers, near the line which at present separates the States of North and South Carolina. IV. The Chlierokees, whose lands were bounded on the east by the Broad River of the Carolinas, including all of Northern Georgia. V. The Uchees, who dwelt south of the Cherokees, along the Savannah, the Oconee, and the headwaters of the Ogeechee and Chattahoochee. They spoke a harsh and singular language, and are believed to have been the remnant of a once powerful nation. VI. The Mobilian Nation, who inhabited all of Georgia and South 102

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i I l.‘DTAN YIILAC-, IN AVI -\I’I,

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. Catrolina not mentioned in the above statements, a part of Kentucky and Tennessee, and all of Florida, Alabama, and Mississippi. Their territory was next in extent to that of the Algonquins, and extended along the Gulf of Mexico from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mississippi River. The nation was divided( into three great confederations-the Creeks or Muscogees, the Choctaws, and the Chickasaws-and was subdivided into a number of smaller tribes, the principal of which were the Seminoles and Yemassees, who were members of the Creek Confederation. VII. The Xttehez, who dwelt in a small territory east of the Mis sissippi, and along the banks of the Pearl River. They were sur rounded on all sides by the tribes of the Mobilian language, yet remained until their extinction a separate nation, speaking a distinct language peculiar to themselves, and worshipping the sun as their god.

They are believed to have been the most civilized of all the savage tribes of North America. VIII. The I)Dcotahs ol Sioux, whose territory was bounded on the north by Lake Winnipeg, on the south by the Arkansas River, on the east by the Mississippi, and on the west by the Rocky Mountains.

The nation was divided into the following branches: the Winnlebagoes, living between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi; the Assiniboins, living in the extreme north; the Southern Sioux, livilng, between the Arkansas and the Platte; and the Minatarees, Mandans, and Crows, who lived west of the Assiniboins. The great plains, the Rocky Mountains, and the Pacific coast were held by the powerful tribes of the Pawnees, Comanches, Apacllecs, Utahlis, Black Feet, Snakes, Nezperces, Flatheads, and California Indclians. These were the inhabitants and possessors of the country at the time of its first settlement. In the year 1492, Christopher Columbus, a natiXe of Genoa, in Italy, sailing under the orders of the King and Queen of Spain, discovered the West Indies; and thus proved beyond all doubt the existence of a new world. There is a Scandinavian tradition that a Norivegian named Leif, in the year 1002, on his voyage from Iceland to Greenland, was driven southward by storms, to a country which was unknown to Europeans, and which hle called Vinland, because of the wild grapes with which he found it covered. It is also said that his discovery was followed by several Scandinavian settlements, none of which proved permanent. It is supposed by some writers .,1

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~~~~~~\/ 4 4/) j ) ii \~( ~~ SIOUX INDIANS BURNING A PRISONER.

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THE ULNITED STATES. that the country alluded to as Vinland, in this tradition, was the State of Rhode Island; but as the legend rests upon no solid foundation, the credit of having been the first to discover the New World must be accorded to Columbus. On the 24th of June, 1497, John Cabot, a Venitian, commanding a ship belonging to Henry VII. of England, discovered land, along which he sailed to the southward for over 1000
miles, making frequent landings, and taking possession of the country in the name of the English King. The next year his son, Sebastian Cabot, left Bristol, England, with two ships, to seek a northwest passage to China.

Hie was stopped by the ice, however, and turned about and sailed southward down the American coast as far as the capes of Virginia-the entrance to Chesapeake Bay. In 1513, Ponce de Leon, acting under the authority of the King of Spain, discovered Florida, and took possession of the country near the present site of the town of St. Augustine. A short while after, he returned and attempted to establish a colony. He was attacked and killed, and his followers driven away by the natives. In the latter part of the year 1523, John Verazzani, a native of Florence, was sent by Francis I., of France, to explore the New World. He was fifty days in crossing the ocean, being vexed by terrible storms all the way, and made land off the mouth of the Cape Fear River, near the present city of Wilmington, North Carolina. He sailed southward for 150 miles, in search of a convenient harbor, but, failing to find one, passed up the coast as far north as Nova Scotia. He visited New York and Newport harbors, as they are now called, both of which are accurately described in the account of his voyage. In 1539, Hernando de Soto landed with several hundred men, in Tampa Bay, Florida, and marched across the continent, defeating the natives on his way, and discovered the Mississippi River, near the site of the present city of Helena, Arkansas. He passed through the region now comprising the States of Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, and Louisiana, and penetrated 200
miles west of the great river. Two years after his landing in Florida, he wandered back to the Mississippi, where he died, and was buried at midnight in the stream. His followers, disheartened by his death, descended the river in boats to its mouth, and, crossing the Gulf, sought refuge in the Spanish settlements in Mexico, where they told marvellous stories of the country they had seen. For several years there was no further effort made to colonize the New World. In 1562, a band of French Calvinists, or Huguenots, 105

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THE GRE-AT REPUBLIC. acting upon tile advice of Admiral Coligni, endeavored to found a colony here, for the purpose of establishing a refuge for French Protestants, who should be driven out of their own country by the persecutions of the Roman Catholics. A charter was granted by Charles IX. of France, and an expedition sent out, under Jean Ribault, which made a settlement at Port Royal, in a country which was called Carolina, in honor of the French King. This settlement was soon abandoned, however, and another established on the banks of the St. John’s River, in Florida. In 1565, Spain renewed her efforts to colonize Florida. An expedition was sent out in that year, which destroyed the French settlement on the St. John’s River, and massacred the inhabitants. Having removed their rivals, the Spaniards then proceeded to found the town of St. Augustine, which is the oldest and first permanent European settlement in the present territory of the Union. The English paid little or no attention to the discoveries of the Cabots for nearly a century. Then, alarmed by the efforts which France and Spain were making to secure a footing in the New eWorld, England begall the task of colonizing her distant lands upon a larger scale than had been attempted by either of her rivals, and was not slow to assert the claim which the discoveries of the Cabots had given her, and which, indeed, she had never relinquished. The first colony was sent out in 1585, in the reign of Elizabeth, under Sir Walter Raleigh, and was established on Roanoke Island, in the present State of North Carolina, a site which Raleighl had discovered during the previous year, and where he had been hospitably entertained by the natives. The whole country was called Virginia, in honor of the Virgin Queen of England. The colony did not prosper, however, and in a few years it was utterly gone. In 1606, James I. divided the English possessions in America into two partsNorth Virginia, extending from the mouth of the T]udson River to Newfoundland, and South Virginia, extelnding from the Potomac to Cape Fear. Two companies were formed in England for colonizing these regions, the London Company, which received from the king the grant of South Virginia, and the Plymouth Company, to which the king gave North Virginia. These companies agreed to colonize their respective grants with due promptness, and to regard the territory lying between the Potomac and the Hudson as neutral ground, upon which both companies were free to make settlements at pleasure. The London Company went to work at once, and sent over an expe 106

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TtIE UNllIT’D STATES. THE EtI.NS OF JAkIE,STOWN: TIIE FIRST PER3IANENT

ENGLISII SETTLE MIENT IN AIMERPICA. dition commanded by Captain Newport, which made a lodgement on the north shore of the James River, in the present State of Virginia, on the 13th of May, 1607. They called their settlement Jamestown, and the river on which it was located, the James, in honor of their sovereign. The command of this expedition was vested in Captain Newport, but the life and soul of the whole undertaking was the celebrated Captain John Smith, to whom alone is due the credit of carrying the colony firmly through the dangers and trials which surrounded its infancy, and planting it upon a permanent basis. He explored the Chesapeake and its tributaries, of which he made maps and sketches which are noted to-day for their accuracy. These voyages of discovery were made in an open boat, the crew of which he could not always depend upon. They were full of romantic adventure. In one of them he was captured and condemned to death by the Indians, but was rescued by Pocahontas, the daughter of king Powhatan. Captain Smith made 107

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. several voyages between England and America, and in 1614 explored and made excellent drawings of the coast from Cape Cod to the Penobscot. To this part of the country he gave the name of ZNew England, by which it has since been known. He won the friendship of the Indians for the whites in Virginia, and by his maps and descriptions did more in England than was done by any other man to arouse that enthusiasm which finally led to the successful planting of the whole Atlantic coast of America with English settlements. The government of the Colony of Virginia was at first vested in a council appointed by the king, but this arrangement was found to work so badly that a change was made, which was followed by several others, until at length a House of Burgesses, chosen by the people, was established. This Assembly, which was the first representative body that ever sat in America, met on the 19th of June, 1619. This event, so important in our history, was followed by two of equal moment, one in August, of the same year, when a Dutch man-of-war entered the James River and sold a cargo of 20 Africans to the planters of Virginia, thus introducing negro slavery into the Colonies; and another in 1621, when the cultivation of cotton was begun in Virginia. The Plymouth Company made extensive preparations on paper for the settlement of their immense territory. Their charter gave them absolute property in and authority over the vast region lying between the Atlantic and Pacific, and bounded by the 40th and 48th parallels of:N,orth latitude, and they prepared to make very hard bargains with those who wished to buy lands of them. The first settlement in their domain, however, was made without their consent or authority, by a band of Puritans, under the leadership of John Carver, WTilliamn Brewster, William Bradford, Edward Winslow, and Miles Standish. This colony sailed from England on the 6th of September, 1620, in a vessel of 180 tons burthen, called the Mayflower, and-landed on the coast of Massachusetts Bay, on the 21st of December of the same year.

They numbered 100 men, women, and children, and at once proceeded to found a settlement, which they named Plymouth, in honor of the last Englishl port from which they had sailed, and where they had been kindly treated.

They had no charter from the king, or sanction from the Plymouth Company, but conducted their enterprise upon their own responsibility, lookling to God for assistance and protection. While still on their voyage, they arranged the form of their government. They organized it upon a basis of religion as well as 108

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THE UNITED STATES. o - I I;~ TIlE PILGRI’MS AT PLYMOUTHII BAY. of civil justice. Their religious system is well described by Robertson, who says: “They united together in a religious society, by a solemn covenant with God, and with one another, and in strict conformity, as they imagined, to the rules of Scripture. They elected a Pastor, an Elder, and a Teacher, whom they set apart by the imposition of the hands of the brethren. All who were that day admitted members of the church, signified their assent to a confession of faith drawn up by their Teacher, and gave all account of their own hopes as Christians; and it was declared that no person should hereafter be 109

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TIHE GREAT TREPUBLIC. received into communion until he gave satisfaction to the church with respect to his faith and sanctity. The form of public worship which they instituted was without a liturgy, disencumbered of every superfluous ceremony, and reduced to the lowest standard of Calvinistic simplicity.” Their civil system was thoroughly republican. The governor was chosen by the people, and his acts were subject to the approval of a council consisting at first of 5 and afterwards of 7
assistants. In the beginning the legislative power was vested in the whole people, but as the colony expalnded a legislature elected by the people was established. Ill 1629, the colony received a charter from Chlirles I.

of England. It prospered from the first, and its success broughLllt over other arrivals from England. In 1628, a settlement was made by a band of Puritans from England, under John Endicott, at Salem, on Massachusetts Bay, which general name was given to the new colony. In 1630, a fleet with 840 new settlers, under John ‘inthlrop, arrived from England, and in September of that year founded the city of Boston, which they named in lhonor of the village in England from which the Rev. John Cotton, their pastor, came. Nev settlers now came over by scores, the number of inhabitants increased rapidly, and in 1690 the colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay were united under one government. In 1623, Sir Fernando Gorges and John Mason took out a patent for a territory called Taconia, lying between the Atlantic and the St. Lawrence, and the Merrimack and the Kennebee. In the same year they settled the cities of Portsmouth and Dover, in New Hampshire. A French colony had been planted in Maine in 1613, but had been broken up by an expedition from Virginia, and the first permanent settlements in Maine were made by the English at Saco and on Monhegan Island, in 1622 or 1623. These settlemenets some years later became a part of the territory of Massachusetts, and were retained by her until the formation of the State of Maine in 1820. In 1635, a company of emigrants from Mlassachusetts, under the pious Hooker, settled the region now comprised in the State of Connecticut, by founding the towns of Hartford and Wethersfield. The Dutch had built a trading post and fort at Hartford in 1633, and a few huts at Wethersfield in 1634, and claimed the territory in consequence of this, but their claim was not regarded by the English. * It is not a little curious that the Puritan Fathlers should have given their metropolis the name of a famous Roman Catholic Saint. I 10

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THE UNITEI STATES. THE FIRST SETTLEMIENT OF TIIE CITY OF NEtW YORK. In 1636, Roger Williams, who had been exiled from Massachusetts on account of his religious opinions, founded the colony of Rhode Island, by settling the town of Providence, which is now the capital of the State. New York was settled by the Dutch, but the State was first entered by a Frenih navigator named Samuel Champlain, who discovered the lake to which he has given his name, in July, 1609, and fought a battle on its shores with a band of Molhawks. HIe inflicted a severe defeat upon them, and from that time the Six Nations were the bitter 111 I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and lasting enemies of the French. On the 6th of September, 1609, Henry Hudson, an Englishman, sailing under the orders of the Dutch East India Company, entered the Bay of New York, discovered the great river which bears his name, and ascended it to within a few miles of the present city of Albany. He took possession of the country for the Government of Holland, by which it was named New Netherlands. A few years later trading posts and forts were established on Manhattan Island (Newv Yorkli City), at the mouth of the Hudson; and at Fort Orange (Albany). In 1623, thirty families settled on Manhattan Island, and called their settlement New Amsterdam, and in the same year eighteen families came over to Fort Orange. From this time the Dutchl settlements grew rapidly. They extended along the Hudson, as fir eastward as Connecticut, and as far southward as the Delaware. The Swedes, who had settled the latter river, and had villages along both banks of the Delaware, almost as far up as the present city of Philadelphia, resisted the Dutch encroachments, but were finally driven away in 1655 by a military expedition of the latter. The English, who claimed the whole country by right of Cabot’s discovery, finding that all diplomatic efforts to induce the Dutch to abandon their American settlements were vain, terminated the controversy by taking forcible possession of the province of New Netherlands in 1664. They changed the names of the province and the principal settlement, New Amsterdam, to New York, and that of Fort Orange to Albany, in honor of the Duke of York and Albany (afterwards James II., of England), to whom Charles II. had granted the territory. That portion of New Jersey lying along the Hudson was settled by the Dutch about the same time that the colony of New Amsterdam began to attract emigrants from Holland. The Swedes settled the southwest portion along the Delaware, in 1627. It fell into the hands of the English when New York was seized by them, and at the same time acquired the name which it bears at present. Sir George Carteret and Lord Berkeley purchased the territory from the Duke of York, and made it a distinct colony, naming it New Jersey, after the island of Jersey, of which Sir George had been governor. Delaware was settled by the Dutch in 1630. They established their settlement near Lewes. In 1633, it was entirely destroyed by the Indians. In 1637, a company of Swedes and Finns made a settlement on the island of Tinicum, a few miles below Philadelphia. Several other settlements were formed, and the country was called New Sweden. The Dutch, after protesting against this occupation of 112

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TtIE UNITrED STAT’I,-S. 113 THE FIRST SETTLERS OF AMERICA CLEARING THE

LAND. the territory by the Swedes, made war upon them, and in 1655 reduced the Swedish forts, and sent back to Europe all the colonists who refused to swear allegiance to Holland. The Delaware settle’nents were held by the Dutch until the final conquest of New Netherlands by the English. The title to the Delaware lands was disputed by Lord Baltimore, but was held by the Duke of York, who sold it to William Penn. Penn’s rights were sustained by the English authorities, and the three counties of Delaware remained a part of Pennsylvania until 1703, when they were allowed the liberty 8

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ~ of forming a separate establishment. Until 1776, however, the same governor administered the affairs of Pennsylvania and Delaware. In 1681, William Penn procured a grant of the lands west of the Delaware, and in 1682 he brought over a colony of Friends, or Quakers, and founded the city of Philadelphia. His colony flourished from the beginning, and by treating the Indians with kindness and justice in his dealings with them, he secured their warm friendship, and a consequent immunity from the savage warfare to which the other colonies were subjected. There was peace between the Indians and the whites for nearly one hundred years. About the year 1710, there was a large emigration of Germans to Pennsylvania. They settled in the southern counties of the colony, which are to this day strongly marked by German characteristics.

Maryland, so called in honor of Henrietta Maria, wife of Charles I., was originally settled by a band of adventurers, under Captain Williamn Clayborne, who went from Virginia, and established themselves on Kent Island, near the head of Chesapeake Bay. The province was granted by Charles I. to Cecil Calvert, Lord Baltimore, in 1632. The next year the first colony, consisting of 201 persons, mostly Roman Catholics, sailed for America in two vessels, called the Ark and the Dove. They landed on St. Clement’s Island, on the 25th of March, 1634, and on the 27th began the settlement of St. Mary’s, in what is now St. Mary’s County in that State. Their first legislative assembly met in 1639, and in 1649 passed the first law ever enacted in America granting religious freedom to all persons. This memorable Act will be found ill the historical sketch of the State of Maryland farther on. In 1670, the settlement of South Carolina was begun by English colonists, who first located themselves at Port Royal, but soon removed to Charleston. The country south of Virginia was given the general name of Carolina, and was governed by the lwoprietors under an absurd constitution prepared by John Locke. In 1727, the King of England bought out the proprietors, and divided the territory into two provinces, called respectively North and South Carolina. Settlements in North Carolina were formed by emigrants from Virginia as early as 1653.

From that time this part of the province continued to increase in population as rapidly as the southern part. A very large number of French Calvinists, about the year 1690, after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, settled in South Carolina. Some years later they were followed by a number of Swiss, Irish, and Germans. 114

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THE UNITED STATES. Georgia, originally a part of Carolina, was settled in 1733, by a band of English emigrants, under General James Oglethorpe. The first settlement was made at Yamacraw Bluff, the site of the present city of Savannah. The province was named in honor of George II. of England.

Georgia was the last settled of all the English colonies, having been founded 127 years after the landing at Jamestown. During the interval which elapsed between these two events, the French had firmly planted themselves in Canada, and had established settlements along some of the great lakes and the upper Ohio, and in portions of Indiana, Illinois, and Louisiana, and the Spanish had settled Florida and New Mexico. The English, after the settlement of Georgia, possessed thirteen vigorous and flourishing colonies in America, which were rapidly growing in importance, wealth, and power. They had an aggregate population of about 2,000,000, and were actively engaged in agriculture, manufactures, and commerce. The majority of the inhabitants were from England, or of English parentage, but there was also a liberal admixture of Scotch, Irish, French, and German elements. The prevailing religious sentiment of the New England colonies was Calvinistic. Quakerism predominated in Pennsylvania, and Roman Catholicism in Maryland; while the Church of England claimed as her children the majority of the people of New York and of the southern colonies. African slavery had become firmly established in the South, and the industry of that section had been based upon it. The institution of slavery, and the presence of considerable wealth in all the colonies of the South, had rendered it useless for the better classes of the people to labor for their own support, and had engendered habits of aristocratic luxury, while the climate had cast over all ranks that fatal spell of indolence and lack of energy which has always been the bane of that section. In the Northern colonies labor was a necessity with all classes.

They had been originally poorer in wealth than their Southern neighbors, and had also a less generous climate, and a soil which required to be worked with the utmost energy and fidelity. Nature did but little for them, and they were forced to make up the deficiency by their own efforts, a necessity which, though hard at first, eventually proved their greatest blessing. They were thus trained in habits of patient and intelligent industry, which they have left to their children. By the period of which we are writing (1732) they had made their bleak country to blossom as a rose, had established thriving cities and 115

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. towns, and, besides laying the sure foundations of an enormous system of manufactures and trade, had already acquired considerable wealth. Learning and the refining arts were common amongst them. Eng land, it is true, did inuchl to hamper and destroy the industry of all the colonies, hoping by this short-sighted policy to ensure their de pendence upon her, but American energy flourished in spite of the mother country. Nor were the material interests of the country the only ones con sulted. One of the very first cares of the settlers was to establish a system of common school education. This system was simple enough at first, but it steadily improved, as the colonies continued to prosper. Schools were established in Virginia in 1621, in the Plymouth Colony soon after, and in New Amsterdam shortly after its settlement. In 1637, Harvard College was founded in Massachusetts; in 1692, William and Mary College was established in Yirginia; in 1701, Yale College was founded in CoInnecticut; in 1738, the College of’ New Jersey was established; and in 1754, King’s (now Columl)ila) College was founded in iNew York. With the exception of William and Mary College, which was destroyed by fire during the late civil war, all of these institutions are in operation to-day. It does not I)elong to this portion of our work to present a detailed statement of the difficulties which lay in the path of the colonies (luring the first century after the settlement of the country. A more minute account will be presented in the historical sketches of the States, and we must confine ourselves here to a mere general outline of the progress of events. The first settlers found the Indians very friendly, and for some time maintained kindly relations with them; but as the number of the whites increased, decided encroachments were made upon the hunting grounds of the savages, and this, with various other causes of quarrel, brought about a series of long and bloody wars with the Indians, which continued with but slight intermission from the death of King Powhatan, the great Virginian chief and the friend of the whites, in 1622, until the red men were driven west of the Mississippi, after the close of the second war with England. They were expelled from the greater number of the Atlantic States, or forced to submit to the authority of the whites, by the close of the Revolution. Their power was broken in Virginia by the death of Opecancanough, in 1644; in New England by the death of King Philip, in 1676; and in the Carolinas by the destruction of the Yemassees, in 1715. West 116

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THE UNITED STATES. BURiN1NG OF DEER}FIELD, MIASSACIIUSETTS. of the mountains and along the northern frontier they were troublesome for many years later. The French, as we have said, had been as energetic as the English in colonizing America. They had made Canada a thriving province, had settled Acadie, and had established a line of posts between Montreal and New Orleans. There were sixty of these posts in all, some of which, as Fort Duquesne (Pittsburg), Detroit, Kaskaskia, Vincennes, and New Orleans, have since become important cities. They were located with an almost intuitive perception of their importance in securing the command of the country, and, as they completely hemmed in the settlements of the English, were not slow in exciting the alarm and jealousy of Great Britain, who claimed the entire 117

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. country from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Nor was the jealousy entirely upon the part of the English. The French, believing that they had securely established themselves in Canada and the northwest, were very anxious to dislodge their powerful neighbors from their growing possessions, and towards the close of the seventeenth century began to incite the Indians to commit depredations upon the English colonies, supplying them with arms and ammunition, and sometimes joining with them in such expeditions. New England and New York suffered severely from them, and several towns (Dover, N. H., Schenectady, N. Y., and Deerfield and Haverhill, Mass.,) were destroyed by bands of Indians, or French and Indians, and their inhabitants massacred or carried into captivity. Open hostilities between the French and English in America broke out in 1690.

This war was really caused by the English Revolution of 1688, and is kn6wn in American history as King William’s War. It lasted seven years, and was terminated by the Treaty of Ryswick, September 20th, 1697. During its continuance the English colonies suffered greatly from the incursions of the French and Indians, and, in retaliation, made several attempts to conquer Canada, but were unsuccessful. Five years after the Peace of Ryswick, the War of the Spanish Succession, or, as it is known in America, Queen Anne’s War, began in Europe (in 1702). It soon spread to America, and embroiled the English and French in this country. The Englislh settlements on the western frontier of New England were almost annihilated by the Indians, while the French were unusually active. Massachusetts, New Hampshire, and Rhode Island made a combined attempt in 1707 to conquer Acadie, but without success. In 1710, an expedition from Boston drove the French out of Acadie, and annexed the province to the British Crown, with the name of Nova Scotia, which it still bears. In 1711, two vigorous efforts were made to conquer Canada, but both proved unsuccessfil. On the 11th of April, 1713, the Peace of Utrecht closed the war, “and the land had rest for thirty years.” King George’s War, or, as it is called in European history, the War of the Austrian Succession, began in Europe in March, 1744, and soon extended to America. It lasted a little over four years, and was brought to a close by the Treaty of Aix la Chapelle, October 18th, 1748. The principal event of this war was the capture of Louisburg, the strongest position of the French in America, by a vol 118

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THE UNITED STATES. unteer force from New England, led by William Pepperell, a wealthy merchant of Maine. This event did much to encourage the martial spirit of the colonists, and was hailed with delight in the mother country. At the conclusion of peace, however, Louisburg was restored to the French. In 1749, the Governor of Virginia received orders from England to grant to the “Ohio Company” half a million acres of land lying on the Ohio River, and between the Monongahela and the Kanawlha.

This region was claimed by France, and as soon as the English company began to form settlements in it, they were resisted by the French commander at Fort Duquesne, to whom the authorities of the province of Virginia resolved to address a letter of remonstrance, before preparing to meet force with force. Their message was entrusted to George AVashington, then a young manai of less than twenty-two years of age, but with a reputation for bravery, prudence, and ability far beyond his years. He performed the long and dangerous journey between the Virginian frontier and Fort Duquesne, delivered the letter, and returned with the reply of the French commandant, who positively refused to comply with the demand of the English. Virginia thenl prepared to maintain her claim by force of arms, and anll expedition, in which Washington was assigned the second place, and of which he finally became the commander, was dispatched towards the Ohio, to occupy the country. On the 28th of May, 1754, it was attacked and cut to pieces by a French force under Jumonville, who was slain in the fight. This affair began the determined struggle which is known ill our history as the Old French, or the French and Indian War, and in Europe as the Seven Years’ War. Hostilities, however, were not immediately declared in Europe. France and England did not come to blows in the Old World until about the year 1756. Each country professed to be at peace with the other, but both were busily engaged in sending aid to their colonies The principal events of the campaign of 1755 in America were as follows: I. The unfortunate expedition of General Braddock against the French at Fort Duquesne, in which Washington first displayed those great qualities which won for him the leadership of our armies in the struggle for liberty. Braddock’s army was ambushed by the Indian allies of the French, about ten miles from Fort Duquesne, and cut to pieces, the general himself being mortally wounded. II. The expedition against Niagara and Frontenac, led by Governor Shirley, of Massachusetts. This attempt proved abortive. Shirley was delayed 119

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. by storins and sickness among his troops, and his Indian allies, who belonged to the tribes of the Six Nations, deserted him to such an extent that their aid amounted to nothing. Disheartened, he aban doned his attempt and retraced his steps eastward. III. The expeditioni against the French posts oni the Bay of Fundy, led by General Winslow, of New England(l. This was successful. The posts were captured and held by thle English. Subsequently General Winslow received positive orders fromn his Government to remove the neutral French from Acadie to the Eng,lish colonies, which duty he performed. There was no actual necessity for the removal of these pIeople, and this harsh and cruel measure of the English Government caused great suffering to tllem. IV. The expedition against Crown Point, led by Sir William Johnson. Johnson’s troops were principally from Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire. He met the French, under Dieskau, at the head of Lake George, on the 6th of September, 1755, and was at first repulsed by them, but, thanks to General Lyman, the second in command, and an American, he succeeded in rallying his army and utterly routing the French, whose commander was fatally wounded and made a prisoner. He lost the fruits of his success, however, by lingering on the field of his victory until it was too late in the season to advance upon Crown Point. I)ieskau was succeeded by the Marquis de Montcalm, to whom was assigned the command of all the French forces in America. He was an officer of experience, energy, and skill, and opened the campaign of 1756 with a series of successes which continued for two years, and which taught the English thgat he was no insignificant foe. In 1756, he captured Oswego, with its immense military stores, which had been placed there by the English. In 1757, he compelled Fort William Henry, at the head of Lake George, to surrender, a disaster which was made the more appalling by the massacre of a part of the garrison, after the capitulation, by the Indian allies of the French.

Thus far fortune had smiled upon the French, but their enemies were not disheartened. The English people were convinced that the disasters which had befallen their arms were due to the incompetency of their Government, and demanded a change of the Ministry. The popular demand was unwillingly complied with, and William Pitt was placed by the king at the head of affairs. From the moment that his great mind began to direct the war, the prospects of the English improved. Pitt appreciated the efforts the Americans had made during the struggle, and called on them to volunteer for fresh 120

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THE UNITED STATES. service under able generals who were sent out from England. His calls were well responded to, and when the campaign of 1758
opened, the English took the field with 50,000 men, commanded by officers of experience and skill. The principal events of this campaign were: the capture of Louisburg by Generals Amherst and Wolfe, after a siege of fifty days; the capture of Fort Frontenac, on Lake Ontario, by a force of Colonial troops, under Colonel Bradstreet; the capture of Fort Duquesne, ill which the forces of the colony of Virginia were commanded by Washington; and the defeat of Abercrombie at Ticonderoga. The British in this engagement attacked Ticonderoga with a force four times as great as that with which Mionitcalm defended the position. Their army was commanded by General Abercrombie and Lord Howe, the latter of whom was an officer of great promise, and warmly loved by the army. Howe was killed at the head of his column, and Abercrombie proved himself so incompetent for the task before him, that Montcalm defeated him, and compelled him to retreat with the loss of 2000 men. This eventi closed the campaign, and more than counterbalanced the successes of the English at the outset. The English authorities at once removed Abercrombie, and put Amherst in his place, who opened the campaign of 1759 by advancing upon Ticonderoga and Crown Point, from which the French retreated without risking an engagement. About the same time Sir Williami Johnson took Niagara, and routed a large French force which was marching to its relief. On the 13th of September, 1759, the great event of the war occurred. Quebec was taken by the British army, under General Wolfe, after a battle on the heights of Abraham, in which both WVolfe and MIontcalm were killed. The capture of Quebec is justly regarded as one of the most remarkable events in modern history, not only because it decided the war in America, but because it broke the power of France and confirmed that of England in the New World. “It gave to the English tongue and the institutions of the Germanic race,” says Bancroft, “the unexplored and seemingly infinite west and north.” The war in America virtually ceased after the fall of Quebec, but continued on the ocean and in Europe for nearly four years longer. Peace was restored by the Treaty of Paris, in 1763, by which Canada and its dependencies, including the posts along the lakes and the Ohio, were forever ceded to Great Britain.

This very treaty, however, was the cause of another war. The French, by their friendly and conciliatory policy, had generally won the friendship of the Indians, but the English, by their arrogance and 121

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. harshness, had rarely failed to excite their hostility, and the transfer of Canada and the northwest made by the Treaty of Paris was bitterly resented by the Indians of that region. One of their chiefs, Pontiac, a leader of great courage and ability, persuaded his countrymen to join him in an attempt to drive out the English. He was successful, and the first blow was struck in June, 1763. In the two weeks which followed the outbreak, the savages captured all the forts west of Oswego, except Niagara, Detroit, and Pittsburg, and massacred the garrisons. No English settler of either sex or any age who fell into the hands of the savages was spared. Siege was laid to Detroit, which was invested for six weeks. It was finally relieved, and the Indians were in their turn pressed with so much vigor that they were compelled to sue for peace. Pontiac, however, refused to yield to his conquerors, and set off towards the Mississippi, inciting the western tribes against the English, until he was murdered in 1769. The old French war was the only one of the struggles between France and England in which the Colonies bore a part, which originated in America. These conflicts, though they at length resulted in removing the hostile French and Indians from the very doors of the Colonies, left them greatly exhausted in both men and money. They had shown the devotion of America to the mother country in a most conspicuous manner, and had certainly earned for the colonists at least the considerate forbearance of the Home Government. As for the Americans themselves, they had learned valuable lessons in modern warfare, had seen for themselves that British generals were not infallible, nor British troops invincible, and had gained a very decided confidence in their own prowess as shown by their achievements. Great Britain, however, did not regard her Colonies with either motherly wisdom or kindness. Jealous of their growing commercial and manufacturing wealth, she sought in numerous.ways to cripple their industry. Always a law-abiding people, the Americans bore all the harsh measures of the mother country in silence, so long as they were kept within the limits sanctioned by the constitution of the realm. In 1761, however, the Home Government threw off its constitutional restraints. A law was enacted by Parliament, empowering sheriffs and customs officers to enter stores and private dwellings, upon the authority of “writs of assistance,” or general search warrants, and search for goods which it was suspected had not paid duty. The first attempt to use these writs was made in Massachusetts, 122

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THE UNITED STATES. where obedience was refused to them by the indignant people, on the ground that they were issued in violation of the laws of England and of the Colony. The persons refusing obedience to them were brought to trial. James Otis, the eloquent attorney for the Crown, refused to sustain them, resigned his office, and in the trials which ensued pleaded the cause of the people with such force that, in the language of John Adams, “every man of an immense crowded audience appeared to go away ready to take arms against the writs of assistance.” The judges decided to avoid a decision, and the writs were never used, though they were granted in secret. It was now proposed by the British Government to levy a direct tax upon the Colonies, and at the same time to deny them any voice in the imposition of this tax. An Act for this purpose, generally called the Stamp Act, was passed by the Commons on the 22d of March, 1765, by a majority of nine-tenrths of the members, and on the 1st of April by the House of Lords with scarcely a dissenting voice. The king at once signed the bill. This Act required that every written or printed paper used in trade, in order to be valid, should have affixed to it a stamp of a denomination to be determined by the character of the paper, and that no stamp should be for a less sum than one shilling. The Colonies had earnestly protested against the measure while it was being discussed in Parliament, but the only notice which the Government took of these protests was to send over a body of troops for the purpose of enforcing obedience to the Stamp Act, and the Ministers were authorized by Parliament to compel the Colonies to find “quarters, fuel, cider or rum, candles and other necessaries” for these troops. Such infamous measures produced great excitement in America. Patrick Henry introduced a series of resolutions into the General Assembly of Virginia, which were adopted by that body, declaring that the Colonists were bound to pay only such taxes as slhogld be levied by their own legislatures. The Legislature of Massachusetts authorized the courts of that province to proceed to transact their business without the use of stamps. In the other Colonies the opposition was strong, but not so vehement, and associations called “Sons of Liberty” were formed all over the country, consisting of men who pledged themselves to oppose the Stamp Act and defend the rights of the Colonies when assailed. The determination not to use the stamps was general, and when the 1st of November, 1765, the day on which the hated law was to go into operation, arrived, it was found that all 123

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. the officials appointed to distribute the stamps had resigned their places. The bells in all the Colonies were tolled, and the flags lowered in mourning for the death of liberty in America. The merchants pledged themselves to import no more English goods, and the people agreed to use no more articles of English manufacture until the law was repealed.. Previous to this, in June, the Legislature of Massachusetts had is sued a call for a general Congress of delegates fiom all the Colonies to meet in New York, on the first Tuesday in October, to consider the state of affairs. Nine of the Colonies were represented in this body, which met at the appointed time. The Congress drew up a declaration of rights for the Colonies, a memorial to Parliament, and a petition to the king, in which, after asserting their loyalty to the Crown and laws of England, they insisted upon their right to be taxed only by their own representatives. These documents were submitted to and approved by the provincial legislatures, and were laid before the British Government in the name of the United Colonies. These popular demonstrations brought up the subject in Parlia ment, and the friends of America urgently demanded a repeal of the Act. Pitt and Burke advocated the repeal with powerful eloquence. The Commons examined a number of witnesses as to the temper and condition of the Colonies. One of these was Benjamin Franklin, who was sojourning in London. He told the House that his countrymen were not possessed of a sufficient amount of gold and silver to buy the stamps, that they were already greatly burdened by debts contracted by them in support of the recent war, in which they had borne more than their just share of the expenses, that they were loyal and attached to the mother country, but that the harsh acts of the Government could only result in destroying their loyal friendship, that unless the Acts complained of were repealed, the Colonies would cease to trade with England, and that they would never consent to pay any taxes except those imposed upon them by their own legislatures. Influenced by these representations, the Parliament resolved to retrace its steps, and on the 18th of March, 1766, the Stamp Act was repealed. The repeal was celebrated with great rejoicings in both America and England, the latter country having become alarmed by the decrease in its trade with the Colonies. The British Government, howvever, did not relinquish its determination to tax America, and on the 29th of June, 1767, the king signed an Act of Parliament imposing duties on glass, tea, paper, and 124

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THE UNITED STATES. some other articles imported into the Colonies. The Americans met this new aggression with a revival of their societies for discontinuing the importation of English goods. Massachusetts led this opposition, and in Boston the custom house officers were mobbed for demanding duties on the cargo of a schooner owned by John Hancock. The officers sought refuge from the mob in the fort in the harbor, and in September, 1768, the Government ordered General Gage to occupy “the insolent town of Boston” with a strong military force. This measure but increased the disaffection of the Bostonians, and on the 5th of MAarch, 1770, a collision occurred between the citizens and the troops, in which three of the former were killed and five wounded. Tills “massacre,” as it was called, produced great excitement in all the Colonies. The soldiers who had fired on the crowd were tried for murder in Boston, and were defended by John Adams and Josiah Quincy, who were resolved that they should have impartial justice dealt out to them. The evidence showing that the troops did not fire until provoked to it by the people, the jury acquitted all the prisoniers but two, who were convicted of manslaughter.

The feeling of the Colonies was so unmistakable that Parliament resolved to remove the obnoxious duties. The king, however, expressly ordered that at least one nominal duty should be retained, as he did not mean to surrender his right to tax the Colonies. In accordance with this command, a duty of three per cent. on tea was retained, and all the others removed.

The Americans, however, objected to the principle of taxation without representation, and not to the amount of the tax, and resolved to discontinue the use of tea until the duty should be repealed. Meetings for this purpose were held in the principal seaports of the country. When it was ascertained that several ships loaded with tea were on their way to Boston, a large meeting of citizens was called, at which it was resolved to send the vessels back to England. Three ships loaded with tea reached Boston soon after, and their owners, in compliance with the public demand, consented to order them back to England, if the Governor would allow them to leave the port. Governor Hutchinson, however, refiused to allow the ships to go to sea, and on the night of the 18th of December, a band of citizens, disguised as Indians, seized the vessels, emptied the tea into the harbor, and then quietly dispersed without harming the vessels. This bold act greatly incensed the British Government, and Parliament adopted severe measures for the purpose of punishing the Colonies. The harbor of Boston was closed 125

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. to all commerce, and the Government of the Colony ordered to be removed to Salem, soldiers were to be quartered on all the Colonies at the expense of the citizens, and it was required that all officers who should be prosecuted for enforcing these measures should be sent to England for trial. The excitement in the Colonies over these acts was tremendous. Boston was everywhere regarded as the victim of British tyranny, and was in constant receipt of assurances of sympathy, and of money and provisions for the poor of the town, sent to her from all parts of the country. Salem refused to accept the transfer of the seat of Government, and the authorities of Marblehead requested the merchants of Boston to use their port free of charge. Even in London ~30,000 were subscribed for the relief of Boston. The excitement continued to increase throughout the country, and the breach between the Colonies and the mother country grew wider every day. On the 5th of September, 1774, a Congress of 55 delegates, representing all the Colonies except Georgia, whose royalist governor prevented an election, met in Philadelphia. It was composed of the ablest men in America, among whom were Washington, Patrick Henry, Richard Henry Lee, Edward Rutledge, John Rutledge, Christopher Gadsden, Samuel Adams, John Adams, Roger Sherman, Philip Livingston, William Livingston, John Jay, Dr. Witherspoon, Peyton Randolph, and Charles Thomson. This body, after considering the grievances of the Colonies, adopted a declaration setting forth their rights as subjects of the British crown to a just share in the making of their own laws, and in imposing their own taxes, to the right of a speedy trial by jury in the community in which the offence should be committed, and to the right to hold public meetings and petition for redress of grievances. A protest against the unconstitutional Acts of the British Parliament was adoped, as well as a petition to the king, an appeal to the British people, and a memorial to the people of the Colonies. The Congress proposed, as a means of redress, the formation of an “American Association,” whose members should pledge themselves not to trade with Great Britain or the West Indies, or with any persons engaged in the slave trade, and to refirain from using British goods or tea. The papers drawn lup by the Congress were transmitted to England. The Earl of Chatham (William Pitt) was deeply impressed by them, and declared in Parliament that “all attempts to impose servitude upon such a mighty continental nation must be vain.” The English people, as a general rule, were 126

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TI1E UNITED STATES. sincerely anxious that the demands of the Americans should be com plied with, and even Lord North, the Prime Minister, who carried the measures in question through Parliament, was in his heart op posed to them, and only continued in office to uphold them at the express command of the king, who was obstinately determined upon vlwhipping his American subjects into submission. Few of tlhe leaders of the Colonists now doubted that hostilities would soon begin, and with a view to prepare for the emergency, the Colonies began to take steps for raising and arming troops at a miinute’s warning. These preparations were especially vigorous in Massachusetts, and alarmed General Gage, who fortified Boston nleck, and commenced to seize all the arms and munitions of war he could find in the province. The Colonial authorities of Massachusetts had established small stores of arms and ammunition at Worcester and Concord, and General Gage resolved to secure them. On the night of the 8lSth of April, 1775, he sent a large detachment of troops to destroy the stores at Concord. It was his design that the movement should be secret, but he was so closely watched by the patriots that the march of his troops was instantly discovered, and the alarm spread through the country by mnessengers. The people at once flew to arms, and when the troops reached Lexington, a village half way between Boston and Concord, on the morning of the 19th, Major Pitcairn, their commander, found his progress opposed by a considerable number of the country people. He ordered his men to fire upon them. The order was obeyed, and the citizens were driven off with a loss of eight killed and several wounded. The troops then proceeded to Concord, where they destroyed some stores, but upon reaching the north bridge over Concord River, they met with a determined resistance from the people, who had now assembled in considerable force, and were obliged to retreat to Boston. The Colonists followed them closely on their retreat, pouring in a galling fire from every convenient point. The total loss of the British on this occasion was 273 men killed and wounded. This battle, if a battle it can be called, put an end to the long dispute between America and Great Britain, and inaugurated the Revolution. Previous to this, no one ever heard, as Jefferson remarks, “a whisper of a disposition to separate firom Great Britain,” but after the first surprise of the shock had worn off, the people of the Colonies commenced to take up arms for freedonm. On the 22d of April, the authorities of Massachusetts ordered that a ZNew England army of 127

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TIE GREAT REiPUBLIC. RUINS OF TICONDEROGA. 30,000 men should be put in the field, and that Massachusetts should furnish 13,000 of these. Troops were raised with rapidity under this authority, and by the 1st of May, an army of 20,000 men was encamped before Boston. In the other Colonies equally important measures were set on foot. The fortresses of Ticonderoga and Crown Point were seized by volutnteers from Connecticut and Vermont, led by Benedict Arnold and Ethan Allen. The cannon and stores taken with them were of incalculable service to the Americans, who were sadly in need of military supplies. In Virginia, South Carolina, and Georgia, the people took up arms as soon as the news from the North was received, and in North Carolina a convention was held at Charlotte, in Mecklenburg county, which body, in May, 1775, proclaimed the independence of the people of North Carolina, and prepared to resist the authority of Great Britain by force of arms. 128

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THE UNITED STATES. On the 10th of May, 1775, the second Colonial Congress met at Philadelphia. It was composed of the most eminiient men of the country, among whom were Washington, Franklin, Hancock, John Adams, Samuel Adams, Richard Henry Lee, Patrick Henry, Jay, George Clinton, Jefferson, and’ others. The proceedings of this body were eminently moderate. The first step taken was to elect John Hancock President of the Congress. A petition to the king was drawn up, and forwarded to him, denying any intention to separate from Great Britain, and asking only for redress of the wrongs of which the Colonies complained. A federal Union of the Colonies was formed, and the Congress assumed and exercised the general gov ernment of the country. Measures were taken to establish an army, to procure military supplies, and to fit out a navy. A loan of $2,000,000 was authorized, and the faith of the “United Colonies” pledged for its payment. The troops before Boston were organized as a Continental army, and placed under the control of the Congress, and WTashington was elected Commander-in-Chief. As soon as he received his commission, he set out for Boston, but did not arrive there until after the occurrence of the events now to be related. Alarmed by the presence of the American forces before Boston, the British commander in that town formed the plan of seizing and forti fy-ing Bunker Hill in Charlestown. His plan was betrayed to the Americans, who at once sent a force under Colonel Williamn Prescott to fortify the hill. Prescott misunderstood his instructions, and proceeded to fortify Breed’s Hill, which, though inferior in height to Bunker Hill, was nearer to Boston, and more perfectly commanded the harbor. He threw up a slight breastwork during the night of the 16th of June, which was discovered by the British on the mnorlning of the 17th. A force of 3000
regulars was detailed to carry the hill, assisted by the fire of the royal ships in the harbor. The American force was scarcely more than half this number, and coinsisted of raw and undisciplined provincials. They repulsed two assaults, however, inflicting upon their enemies a loss of 1045 men killed and wounded; but were at length, after their ammunition had given out, driven from the hill. They retreated across Charlestown neck to Cambridge, which was held by the Continental army, having lost 449 men killed, wounded, and prisoners. Among the killed was General Joseph W\arren, of Boston, one of the most valuable of the American leaders. This battle, though an actual defeat for the Americans, was regarded by them as a victory, inasmuch as it demonstrated their 9 129

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ability to hold their ground against the regular troops of Great Britain, and inspired them with a confidence which attended them during the entire war. Washington reached the army before Boston several days after the battle of Bunker Hill, and immediately took command. He was received with enthusiasm by the troops and people. He was accompanlied by General Charles Lee, an officer who had seen service before. Congress had appointed a full complement of general officers for the army, all of wAvllom were with their commands. The Major-Generals w-ere: Charles Lee, of Virginia, Philip Schuyler, of New York, ArteIIas Ward, of Massachusetts, and Israel Putnam, of Connecticut. The Brigadiers were: Horatio Gates, Seth Pomeroy, Richard Montgomery, David Wooster, William Heath, Joseph Spencer, John Thomas, John Sullivan, and Nathanael Greene. Of all these, Gates was the only manl who possessed sufficient experience to be of much assistance to Washing,ton in the task of perfecting the organization of the army, which was in reality little better than a mere rabble in diseipline, clothing, and equipment. By extraordinary exertions, Washinton and Gates at lengthl succeeded in bringing the force to a tolerably effective condition. Boston was at once regularly besieged, and closely invested until March 17th, 1776, when, Washington having secured a position from which his cannon could render the city untenable, the British forces evacuated the place, and sailed for Halifax. They were accompanied by a large body of loyalists, who feared to remain in the town after its occupation by the Americans. Meanwhile, during the progress of the siege of Boston, other operations had been going on elsevlwhere. General Montgomery had been sent into Canada with a small, weak force, to conquer that province, which was believed to be disaffected towards England. His second in command was Benedict Arnold, who rendered brilliant service during the campaign. The principal event of the invasion was a joint attack upon Quebec by Montgomery and Arnold, which was unsuccessful, and in which Montgomery was killed and Arnold wounded. The expedition accomplished nothing of importance, and was compelled to return to the Colonies, after suffering great losses and coinsiderable hardships. A British fleet attacked and burned Falmouth (now Portland, Maine) on the New England coast, and committed many outrages on the coast of Virginia. A powerful force, under Sir Peter Parker, attacked Fort Sullivan, in the harbor of Charleston, South Carolinas 130

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THE UNITED STA.TES. _ ifi INDEPENDENCE IIALL IN 1776. and was repulsed with heavy loss. The Americans managed during the year to fit out several cruisers, which were fortunate enough to capture a number of prizes loaded with military stores for the British army, and which proved of infinite service to the Americans. Indeed, these captures seemed providential, for often when the stock of arms and munitions was running l]ow, a cruiser would make its way into port with a prize laden with the supplies most needed, which it had taken from the enemy. Congress took measures for the active prosecution of the war. Supplies were drawn from the West Indies, and a regular system for that purpose inaugurated; powder mills and cannon founderies were provided for; thirteen frigates were ordered to be built (a few of which eventually got to sea); a committee of war, one of finance, and a secret committee, to which was entrusted the negotiations of the Colonies with the individuals and authorities of foreign States, were appointed; and an energetic, if defective, system of government for 131 ‘o

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the “United Colonies” was fairly established. Finally, on the 4th of July, 1776, Congress adopted a declaration on behalf of the Colonies, declaring their independence of the Englishl crown, and proclaiming that henceforth the Colonies were free and independent States.

This declaration changed the entire nature of the struggle. “The war,”

says Bancroft, “was no longer a civil war; Britain was become to the United States a foreign country. Every former subject of the British king in the thirteen Colonies now owed primary allegiance to the dynasty of the people, and became citizens of the new republic; except in this, everything remained as before; every man retained his rights; the Colonies did not dissolve into a state of nature, nor did the new people undertake a social revolution. The affairs of internal police and government were carefully retained by each separate State, which could, each for itself, enter upon the career of domestic reforms. But the States which were henceforth independent of Britain, were not independent of one another; the United States of America assumed powers over war, peace, foreign alliances, and commerce.” As he supposed that New York would be the next object of attack by the British, Washington transferred his army to that place immediately after his occupation of Boston. He had not long to wait, for in June, Admiral Lord Howe entered New York bay with a fotrmidable fleet and 30,000 troops, consisting principally of German mercenaries hired by the King of England. The troops were landed on Staten Island, and preparations made for attacking the city of New York. Lord Howe issued a proclamation to the people of America, offering a free pardon to all who would lay down their arms and accept the king’s clemency; but the proclamation produced no effect whatever upon the patriots, who were convinced that they could expect but a poor regard for their rights and liberties at the hands of King George. Washlington’s force was vastly inferior to that of the enemy in every respect. He was compelled to divide it, and to place a portion of it on Long Island, in order to cover the approaches to the city of New York. The force on Long Island was attacked and defeated by the British on the 27th of Aug,ust, 1776, and compelled to abandon the island. The enemy followved up their successes, and finally obliged Washington to give up Manhattan Island and the lower Hudson.

Disasters now fell thlicklly upon thIe Americans, and by the close of the year Washington hlad b)eenl driven across the Delaware, 132 1.

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THE UNITED STATES. and had with him less than 4000 half-starved and miserably equipped troops. The British had by this time taken possession of the island of Rhode Island, and had made a descent upon Baskingridge, New Jersey, and had captured General Charles Lee. By December, 1776, the cause of the Colonies seemed so desperate that the people generally began to abandon the hope of liberty and apply themselves to the task of making their peace, individually, with the royal authorities. Influenced by this state of affairs, Sir William Howe, the British Commander-in-Chief, refrained from making a vigorous effort to follow up his antagonist and crush him. At this hour, when everything was so gloomy, Washington was calmn and hopeful. He had expected reverses, and they did not dismay him.

He did what lay in his power to cheer and encourage the little band of heroes who remained faithful to him, and watched the enemy with sleepless vigilance, and at length discovered an opportunity for striking a powerful blow in behalf of his country. Perceiving that the advanced wing of the English army occupied an exposed position at Trenton, New Jersey, he crossed the Delaware with his army, in open boats, in the midst of snow and ice, on the night of the 25th of December, and falling suddenly upon the enemy at daybreak the next morning, completely routed them, capturing 1000 prisoners, 1000 stand of arms, 6 brass field pieces, and 4 standards.

On the night of the 26th, he recrossed the Delaware, and returned to his camp in Pennsylvania. On the 3d of January, 1777, he again defeated a strong British detachment at Princeton, New Jersey, and in a short while had cleared that State almost entirely of the enemy. These victories, so brilliant and so audacious, completely startled the British, who had believed the war virtually over in the North, and aroused, as if by mnagic, the drooping spirits of the Americans. Congress, which had remained unmoved by the disasters of 1776, now inaugurated a series of more vigorous measures than had yet been determined upon. Washington was invested with almost dictatorial powers; troops were ordered to be enlisted for three years, instead of one year, which was the term of the first levies; a central government was established, and a constitution, known as the “Articles of Confederation,” was adopted by the States (Maryland did not ratify these articles until the next year); and agents were sent to foreign countries to procure the recognition of the independence of the United States. When the campaign of 1777 opened, the prospects of the country 133

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. had so far improved that Washington found himself at the head of an army of 7000 men. Sir William. Howe made repeated efforts to bring on a general engagement, but Washington skilfully avoided it, and the British General finally withdrew his army from New Jersey, and occupied Staten Island. Soon after this, he sailed with 16,000 men for the Chesapeake, and, landing at Elk River, in Maryland, a(lvanced through Delaware towards Philadelphia, which was the seat of the Federal Government. Washington endeavored to check the progress of the enemy on the Brandywine, September 11th, but was defeated with a loss of 1000 men.

The British occupied Philadelphia a few days later, and Congress withdrew to Lancaster, and then to York, Pennsylvania. On the 4th of October, Washington made a vigorous attack upon the British force at Germantown, 7
miles from Philadelphia, but was repulsed with severe loss. This event closed the campaign in the Middle States. In the North, the American forces had been more successful. General Burgoyne, with 7000 regular troops and a considerable force of Canadians and Indians, entered the United States from Canada during the summer of 1777, and advanced as far as Fort Edward, on the upper Hudson. From this point a strong detachment was sent to Bennington, in Vermont, to destroy the stores collected there by the Americans. This force was routed with a loss of 800 men, by the militia of New Hampshire and Vermont, under General Stark. The battle occurred at Bennington, on the 16th of August, 1777. Burgoyne then advanced towards Saratoga, New York, making his way through the woods until he reached the vicinity of that place, when he was met by the American army, under General Gates, to whomn the command of the Northern department had been recently assigned. An indecisive battle was fought between the two armies on the 19th of September, and a second and more decisive engagement occurred on the 7th of October, on nearly the same ground. Burgoyne was considerably worsted, and endeavored to return to Canada, but findinig his retreat cut oftf, surrendered his entire army to the American forces, upon favorable terms, on the 17th of October. This victory, the most important of the war, greatly elated the Americans and their friends in Europe, while it depressed the Tories or loyalists in America to an equal degree. It advanced the bills of the Continental Congress, and had the effect of inducing the French Government, which had secretly encouraged and aided the ColI)nies from the first, to recognize the independence of the States, and in 134

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THE UNITED STATES. February, 1778, a treaty of friendship, commerce, and alliance was signed at Paris, by the French King and the American Commissioners. Great Britain seemed to realize now, for the first time, that she was about to lose her Colonies, and endeavored to repair her mistakes. On the 11th of March, 1778, Parliament repealed the Acts which had proved so obnoxious to the Colonies, and subsequently sent three commissioners to negotiate a reconciliation with the Americans. As these commissioners had no authority to consent to the independence of the States, Congress refilsed to treat with thlem until the king should withdraw his forces from the country, and rejected the terms offered by the British Government. WVashlington’s army went into winter quarters at the Valley Forge, 20 miles from Philadelphia, about the middle of December, 1777. The troops suffered terribly from exposure, hunger, and the dreadful privations to which they were subjected, but remained with their colors through it all. Their devotion was rewarded in the spring by the news of the alliance with France, which reached thein in May, 1778, and was greeted with demonstrations of the liveliest joy. The first result of the French alliance was the arrival in the Delaware of a fleet, under Count D’Estaing. D’Estaing had been ordered to blockade the British fleet in the Delaware, and arrived off the Capes in June, but before his arrival the enemy’s ships had taken refuge in Raritan Bay. The British army in Philadelphia was now commanded by Sir Henry Clinton, who had succeeded General Howe. On the 18th of June, Clinton withdrew his force from that city, and began his retreat through New Jersey to New York. Washington pursued him promptly, and came up with him, on the 28thl of June, on the plains of Monmouth, near the town of Freehold, N. J., where a severe engagement took place. Although the result was indecisive, Clinton resumed his retreat to New York, and remained there for the rest of the summer, without making any effort to resunmehostilities. In August, an attempt was made by the Americans, assisted by the French fleet, to drive the Britishl from Rhode Island, but without saccess. D’Estaing withdrew from the coast soon after this, and retlrned to the West Indies, having rendered little practical aid during his presence in American waters. The finances of the country were now in the greatest conflusion, and nothing but the wisdom and unshrinking patriotism of Rot-)ert MAorris sav(d the infant republic from utter bankruptcy and rlin. It is worthy of remark that a grateful country suffered this mani to die, in 135

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. a debtor’s prison. On the whole, however, the cause of the States was much improved. Besides the alliance with France, they had the secret encouragement and assistance of Spain. They had confilned the British to the territory held by that army in 1776, and had a larger and better disciplined army than they had-yet possessed. In 1779, the principal military operations were transferred to the South. Savannah had been already captured on the 29th of Decemher, 1778, by an expedition sent from New York by Sir Henry Clinton, and by the summer of 1779, the whole State of Georgia was in the hands of the British. In September, 1779, the French fleet and a land force of Americans under General Lincoln attempted to recover Savannah, but were repulsed with a loss of 1000 men. On the 16th of June, 1779, Spain declared war against England, and, in the summer of that year, the French King, influenced by the appeals of Lafayette, who had visited France for that purpose, agreed to send another fleet and a strong body of troops to the assistance of the Americans. The cruisers of the United States were doing considerab)le damage to the British commerce at sea and in British waters, and Paul Jones, on the 23d of September, fought and won one of the most desperate battles known to naval warfare, in plain sight of the English coast. Sir Henry Clinton, in obedience to instructions received from England, now withdrew his forces firom Rhode Island, and concentrated his entire command at New York. Early in 1780, he proceeded with the main body of his troops to the South, leaving General Knytphausen in command at New York, and at once laid siege to Charleston, South Carolina, which was held by General Lincoln with a force of 2500
men. The city was surrendered with its garrison, on tlhe 17th of May, 1780, after a nominal defence. By the 1st of June, the British were in possession of the whole State of South Carolina, and Clinton was so well convinced of the completeness of its subjugation that he went back to New York on the 5th of June, leaving the command in the South to Lord Cornwallis. Small bands of partisan troops, under Marion, Sumter, Pickens, and other no less devoted though less famous leaders, now sprang up in various parts of the State, and maintained a vigorous guerilla wtrfare, from which the enemy suffered greatly. Congress soon after ant an army under General Gates into South Carolina to drive the enemy firom the State. Gates’ success at Saratoga had made him the idol of the hour, and there were persons who seriously desired tht he 13 6

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THE UNITED STATES. should even supersede Washington himself; but his northern laurels soon wilted in the South. Cornwallis met him at Camden, routed him with a loss of 1000 men, and drove him into North Carolina. By the close of the summer, the only American force in South Caro lina was the little band under General Marion. Cornwallis, feeling assured that his communications with Charleston were safe, followed Gates’ beaten army into North Carolina, towards the middle of Sep tember. On the 7th of October, a strong detachment of his army was totally defeated, with a loss of 1200
men, by the nilitia of North Carolina, at King’s Mountain. This was a severe blow to him, and checked his advance. At the same time Marion and Pickens renewed their warfare in South Carolina so actively, and rendered Cornwallis’ communications with the sea so uncertain, that he withdrew towards Charleston. In the North, the British commander vainly endeavored to draw Washington into a general engagement, in which he felt confident that his vast preponderance of numbers would give him the victory.

Washington warily avoided being caught in the trap; and on the 23d of June, General Greene inflicted such a stinging defeat upon a British force at Springfield, N. J., that Clinton withdrew to New York, and remained there for the rest of the year. After the battle of Camden, General Greene was sent to the Carolinas, to take command of Gates’ army. On the 10th of July, 1780, a French fleet and 6000 troops, all under the Count de Rochambeau, reached Newport, Rhode Island. In September, during the absence of Washington at Hartford, Conn., whither he had gone to arrange a plan of operations with the French officers, it was discovered that General Benedict Arnold, one of the most brilliant officers of the Continental army, had agreed to deliver into the hands of the British the important fortress of West Point, which he commanded at that time. The plot was promptly frustrated, and the traitor escaped, but Major Andre’, a British officer who had concluded the arrangement with him, and whose capture had revealed the plot, was hanged as a spy. Towards the close of the year, Great Britain having discovered that Holland and the United States were secretly negotiating a treaty of alliance, declared war against the Dutch. The war against America, however, still continued unpopular with the English people. The campaign of 1781 opened with the brilliant victory at the Cowpens, in Souith Carolina, won over the British under Colonel 137

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Tarleton by General Morgan, on the 17tIl of January.

Onl the 15th of March the battle of Guilford Court House was fought in North Carolina, and resulted in a partial victory for the British. In September, 1781, the royal forces were terribly beaten in the bloody battle of Eutaw Springs, in South Carolina, and compelled to retire to the sea coast, to which they were confined until the close of the war.

Meanwhile, Cornwallis, after the battle of Guilford Court House, had advanced into Virginia, driving before him the handfill of forces under Lafayette, Wayne, and Steuben, which sought to oppose his march. He occupied himself chiefly while in Virginia in destroying private property, and at length, in August, 1781, in obedience to orders from Sir Henry Clinton, to occupy a strong defensive position in Virginia, intrenched himself at Yorktown, near the entrance of the York River into Chesapeake Bay. This movement led to an immediate change in the plan of operations which had been resolved upon by Washington, whose army had been reeinforced on the Hudson by the French troops under Count de Rochambeau.

It had been his intention to attack the British in New York with his combined force, aided by the French fleet, but Cornwallis’ situation offered such a tempting opportunity that he at once resolved to transfer his army to Virginia. Skilfully deceiving Sir Henry Clinton into the belief that New York was the threatened point, and thus preventing him from sending assistance to Cornwallis, Washington moved rapidly to Virginia, and arrived before the British works at Yorktown, with an army 12,000 strong, on the 28th of September, 1781. The enemy’s position was at once invested by land, and the French fleet cut off all hope of escape by water. The siege was prosecuted with vigor, and on the 19th of October, Cornwallis surrendered his whole army, which consisted of 7000 well equipped troops. This victory virtually closed the war. It produced the wildest joy in Americas and compelled a change of Ministers iniEngland.

Lord North and his Cabinet retired from office on the 20th of March, 1782, and the newv administration, perceiving the hopelessness of the struggle, resolved to discontinue the war. Orders were sent to the British commanders in America to desist from further hostilities, and on the 11th of July, 1782, Savannah was evacuated by the royal troops, which event was followed by the evacuation of Charleston on the 14th of December. A preliminary treaty of peace was signed at Paris oni the 30th of November, 1782, and a formal treaty on the 3d of Sep)tember, 1783. By this formal treaty Great Britain aeknow 138

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T HIE UNITED STATES. ledged her former Colonies to be free, sovereign, and independent States, and withdrew her troops from New York on the 25th of November, 1783. The great war was now over, and the new Republic took its place in the family of nations; but it was terribly weakened by its efforts. Its finances were in the most pitiful condition, and it had not the money to pay the troops it was about to disband, and who were really suffering for want of funds. Considerable trouble arose on this account, and it required all the great influence of Washington to allay the discontent. The army was disbanded immediately after the close of tihe war, a,d on the 23rd of December, 1783, Washington resigned his commission into the hands of Congress, and retired to his home at AMount Vernon. It was found that the Articles of Confederation were inadequate to the necessities of the Republic, and a new Constitution was adopted by the States after much deliberation. It went into operation on the 4th of March, 1789. The city of New York was designated as the seat of Government. Washington was unanimously chosen the first President of the Republic, with John Adams as VicePresident, lie went into office on the 30th of April, 1789. The first measures of his administration greatly restored the confidence of the people in the Goverimient. Alexander Hamilton, the Secretary of the Treasury, inaugurated a series of financial reforms, which were eminently beneficial. The debts of the old Confederated Governmnent and the debts of tihe States themselves, were all assumed by the United States; a bank of the United States (which went into operation in February 1794) was incorporated, and a national Mint was established at Philadelphlia. An Indian war in the West was firmly and vigorously prosecuted to a successful termination, and the neutrality of the Republic with regard to the various parties of the great Revolution in France, faithfully maintained. Washington and Adams were reelected in 1792. The principal events of the second term were the firmness with which the President met the efforts of the French Republic to embroil the United States in another war with England; the demand for the recall of MI.

Genet, the French Minister, which was at length complied with; the British Treaty of 1794 (commonly known as Jay’s Treaty), which was so warmly discussed by the Federalist and Republican parties in this country; the outrageous decrees by wvhich the French Goverinrent sought to cripple American commerce in revenge for t}1 e.upposed 139

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. partiality of our Government for England; the admission into the Union of the States of Vermont (1791), Kentucky (1792), and Ten nessee (1796); and the Whiskey Insurrection, in 1794, which was a formidable outbreak in Western Pennsylvania against an odious excise law.

Washington promptly suppressed it. Washington was urgently importuned to be a candidate for another term, but declined, although it was sure that there would be no opposition to him. In September, 1796, he issued a “Farewell Address” to his countrymen, warning them of the evils to which their new system was exposed, and urging them to adhere firmly to the principles of the Constitution as their only hope of liberty and happiness. The third Presidental election occurred in 1796, and was marked by a display of bitterness between the opposing parties never surpassed in the subsequent history of the Republic. The Federalists presented John Adams as their candidate, while the Republicans advocated the claims of Thomas Jefferson. Adams received the highest number of votes, and Jefferson the next. By the terms of the Constitution as it then existed, Jefferson was declared the Vice-Presidenlt. President Adams was opposed with considerable bitterness by his political enemies throughout his whole term. The administration of the Navy was removed from the WVar Department in 1798, and a Navy Department established. On the 15th of May, 1797, the President convened Congress in extra session to consider the relations of this country with France. The French Directory had been pursuing for some years a systematic course of outrage towards the ships and citizens of the United States, and had carried this to such an extent as to leave little doubt that it was their deliberate intention to destroy American commerce.

Three envoys were sent to France by President Adams, with authority to adjust all differences between the two countries. The Directory refused to receive them, but they were given to understand that the payment of a large sum of money by their Government would greatly tend towards securing proper treatment for our vessels; and it was plainly intimated that if the American Government refused to pay this bribe, it would have to go to war for its obstinacy. When this message was delivered to the Commissioners, one of their number, Charles C. Pinckney, returned this memorable and patriotic reply, in which his associates heartily joined: “War be it then; millions for defence, but not a cent for tribute.” The French Government then informed Mr. Gerry, who was a Republican, that he could remain in France, but ordered Messrs. Pinckney and Marshall to quit the country. 140

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THE UNITED STATES. Great indignation prevailed throughout the Union, when these insults to the American Commissioners became known. The Government at once took measures to raise an army and navy adequate to the struggle which seemed imminent. Washington was appointed Commanlder-in-Chief, with the rank of Lieutenant-General, and hostilities actually began at sea, where the cruisers of the Republic won several brilliant successes over French ships of war. The energy and determination thus manifested by the United States had a happy effect in France, and the war was finally averted by the accession of Napoleon to the dignity of First Consul. The new ruler of France intimated his willingness to reopen the negotiations with America, and a treaty of peace and amity between the two countries was definitely concluded, on the 30th of September, 1800. During the existence of hostilities with France, two laws were enacted by Congress, which are generally known as the “Alien and Sedition Laws.” They empowered the President to send out of the country such aliens as should be found conspiring against the peace and safety of the Republic, and to restrict the liberty of speech and of the press. It was true beyond all doubt, as the Government claimed in defence of its course, that the country was overrun with English and French agents, who were here for the express purpose of embroiling the United States in the quarrels in progress in the Old World, and that the press, which was controlled mainly by European adventurers, had become so corrupt and licentious as to be highly dangerous to the peace of the country. Nevertheless, these Acts aroused such a strong opposition throughout the States, that the Federalists were overwhelmingly defeated in the next Presidential election. During President Adams’ term, the seat of Government was renmoved to Washington City. In the fourth contest for the Presidency, the votes of the Republican party were equally divided between Thomas Jefferson and_Aaron Burr. Each received 73 electoral votes. This threw the election into the House of Representatives, where Jefferson was chosen President and Burr VicePresident. This circumstance also occasioned an amendment to the Constitution (adopted finally in 1804), requiring the electors to vote separately, as at present, for President and VicePresident. MAr.

Jefferson entered upon his office in March, 1801, and soon after began to remove the Federalist office-holders under the Government, appointed by his predecessor, and to fill their places with Republicans, or Democrats as they now began to call themselves. He justified his 141

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. course by declaring that Mr. Adams had appointed none but Fede ralists to office, and that it was not fair for one party to have all the offices, or even a majority of them. This was the beginning of the system of removals from office for political causes, which has been the bane of our Government; but it should be added, in justice to Mr. Jef ferson, that he was not guilty of such wholesale political decapitation as has usually been practised by his successors. His removals were few in proportion to the whole number of officials. HIis first term was marked by wisdom and vigor. The domestic affairs of the nation prospered, and the finances were managed in a masterly manner by Albert Gallatin, the great Secretary of the Treasury. Louisiana was purchased from France, and the insolence and piracies of the Barbary States of Afiica punished and stopped. In 1804, MAr. Jefferson was reelected, receiving all but 14 of the electoral votes. Burr was succeeded in the VicePresid(ency by George Clinlton, and two years later was arrested and tried for a supposed attempt to separate the Western States from the Union. He was acquitted of the charge, and his innocence is now generally admitted. American commerce was much injured by the retaliatory decrees and orders in Council of the French and British Governments, under the sanction of which American ships were seized with impunity in gross violation of the laws of nations. Great Britain was not content with these outrages, but asserted a right to impress American seamen into her navy, and to stop and search American vessels for deserters from her ships of war. These searches were generally conducted in the most aggravating nmanner, and hundreds of American sailors, owing no allegiance to King George, were forced into the British service. In June, 1807, the American frigate Chesapeake, on her way to the Mediterranean, was stopped off the Chesapeake Bay, by the British frigate Leopard, whose commander produced an order requiring him to search the ship for deserters. The American vessel refused to submit to the search, and was fired into by the Leopard, and, being in a helpless condition, was forced to yield with a loss of twentyone of her crew. Four men were taken from her and sent on board the Leopard. Three of these afterwards proved to be nativeborn Americans. This outrage aroused a feeling of the most intense indignation in America, and the Federal Government at once demanded reparation at the hands of Great Britain, which was evaded for the time, but finally made in 1811. On the 11th of:November, 1807, England issued an order in 142

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THE UNITED STATES. Council, forbidding neutral vessels to enter the ports of France until they had first touched at a British port and paid a duty; and the next month Napoleon replied to this, by issuing a decree from Milan, ordering the confiscation of every vessel which should submit to search by or pay any duties to the British authorities. These two piratical decrees, each of which was enforced by a powerful navy, meant simply the destruction of all neutral commerce, and that of America in particu.lar. Mr. Jefferson recommended to Congress, in December, to lay an embargo, detaining all vessels, American or foreign, in the ports of the United States, and to order the immediate return home of all American vessels. This measure, which was a most singular expedient, was adopted, and gave rise to such intense dissatisfaction in all parts of the country, that it was repealed in February, 1809. As Mr. Jefferson declined to be a candidate for a third term, the Democratic party supported Jamles MIadison, of Virginia, for the Presidency, and George Cliniton, of NTew York, for tlhe icePresidency, and elected them in 1808. They were inaugurated in March, 1809. The measures of Mr. Jefferson’s second term, and especially the embargo, had given rise to considerable olpposition to the Demrnocracy, and this opposition was now directed against the new administration with no little bitterness, and followed it persistenltly until its withdrawal from power. Great Britain, instead of discontinuing her outrages upon American seamen and commerce, increased them every day, persistently refusing to be influenced by the protests and representations of the United States; and our Government, having at length exhausted all peaceable means of redress, was compelled to defend its rights with arms.

WTar was declared against England on the 3d of June, 1812, and measures looking to the conquest of Canada were at once set on foot. The nation was poorly prepared for war. The embargo had almost entirely destroyed the revenue of the Government, and the finances were in a state of sad confusion; the navy consisted of only eight fiigates and seven other vessels; and the army was a mere handful of inefficient recruits. Still, America possessed this advantage. Great Britain was forced to make such tremendous exertions to carry on her war with France, that she did not have much strength left to expend upon this country. This is shown by the fact that England made no effort to blockade our coast until the 20th of March, 1813, when, having sent a strong fleet to our waters, she proclaimed the blockade of the entire American coast, except the shores of:New England. 143

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. Congress authorized the President to increase the regular army by 25,000 men, and to call for 50,000 volunteers. The calls were responded to promptly in some of the States, tardily in some, and almost ignored in others, for the country was far from being united in support of the war. Hostilities began in the Northwest. Previous to the war, the Indians of that region, instigated by British emissaries, commenced to make war upon the American settlements, under the leadership of the famous Shawnee Chief Tecumseh. General Harrison (afterwards President), the Governor of the Territory of Indiana, as soon as he learned of this, organized a considerable force of Western militia, and marched against the savages, whom he defeated with terrible loss, in a sanguinary battle at Tippecanoe, on the banks of the Wabash River, on the 7th of Novemnber, 1811. Though defeated in this battle, Te cumseh was not conquered. He passed the next six months in re organizing his forces, and with the beginning of the summer of 1812, renewed hostilities. General Hull, then Governor of Michigan, was sent to meet him with a force of 2000
men. He had just begun his mnarch when war was declared against England, and he was ordered to discontinue his expedition against the Indians, and invade Canada. His force was utterly inadequate to such an undertaking, but the War Department was too stupid to perceive this. He entered Canada from Detroit, was met by a superior force of British and Indians, under General Brock, and was driven back to Detroit with a loss of 1200 men.

This reduced his army to 800 men, with which he could do absolutely nothing. On the 16th of August, he surrendered Detroit to the enemy, who had followed him from Canada. This placed the whole of Michigan in the hands of General Brock. An invasion of Canada from the Niagara frontier was also undertaken by our forces during the fall of 1812. It was a most disastrous failure. These defeats on land, however, were partly atoned for by our successes at sea. The navy had been utterly neglected by the Government at the outset of the war, and had been left to win by good service whatever encouragement it afterwards received. It achieved during the latter part of 1812 a series of brilliant victories, which placed it in the proud position it has since held. On the 19thl of August, the frigate Constitution, Captain Hull, captured the British frigate Guerriere; on the 18th of October, the sloop of war Wasp, Captain Jones, captured the British brig Frolic; on the 25th of October, the frigate United States, Captain Decatur, captured the British fiigate I 144

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THE UNITED STATES. 5[acedonian; and on the 29th of December, tile Constitution, Captain Bainbridge, captured the British frigate Java.

Privateers were sent to sea in great numbers, and, by the close of the year 1812, had captured over 300 English merchant vessels. The Government renewed its efforts against Canada with the opening of the campaign of 1813. All army, under General Harrison, was collected near the head of Lake Erie, and styled the Army of the \Test; an Army of the Centre, under General Dearborn, was stationed along the Niagara frontier; and an Army of the North, under General WAVade Hampton, was posted in northern New York, onIL the border of Lake Champlain. There were numerous engagements between these forces and the enemy, but nothing definite was accomplished during the first half year. In April, General Pike, with a force of 1700

Americans, captured York (now Toronto), the capital of Upper Canada, but was himself killed by the explosion of a mine fired by the enemy. The town was not held, however, and the success of the attack was fully balanced by the terrible disaster which had befallen the Western Army, in January, at River Raisin, in which a detachment of 800 men, under General Winchester, had been defeated and the greater portion of them massacred by the Indians, who were now the open allies of the English. In May, the British made an attack on Sackett’s Harbor, on Lake Ontario, but were repulsed. In the same month, an American force, under General Boyd and Colonel Miiller, captured Fort George, in Canada, inflicting uponll the British a loss of nearly 1000 men. Nothing definite was accomplished on the Niagara frontier, owing to the quarrels between Generals Wilkinson and Hampton, and the grand invasion of Canada, from which so much had been expected, never took place. The great events of the year, however, were the destruction of the British fleet on Lake Erie, by the squadron of Captain Oliver H. Perry, on the 10th of September, which caused the enemy to abandon the lake and with itt the shores of Michigan and Ohio; and the battle of the Thames, in Canada, in which the Western Army, under General Harison, on the 6thl of October, utterly defeated a strong British column, under General Proctor, and a force of 2000 Indians, under Tecumseh, inflicting upon them a severe loss in killed and wounded-Tecumseh himself being among the former-and taking 600 prisoners, 6 pieces of cannon, and large quantities of stores. At sea, this year, the American brig Hornet, Captain Lawrence, captured the Peacock. On the 24th of February, Captain Lawrence 10 145

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SCENE OF THE BATTLE OF LAKE CHAMPLAIN. was put in command of the frigate Chesapeake, which was captured by the British frigate Shannon, off Boston, on the 1st of June. Lawrence was mortally wounded in this engagement. -On the 5th of September, the American brig Enterprise, Lieutenant Burrows, captured the British brig Boxer, Lieutenant Blythe. Both commanders were killed in the fight. The campaign of 1814 was more important. The war in Europe having closed, large numbers of Wellington’s veteran troops were sent over to America. They reached this country during the latter part of the year. On the 5th of July, the American army, under General Brown, defeated the British at Chippewa. On the 25th of the same month, General Brown won a second victory over the enemy 146

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TI-IE UNITED STAT’ES. at Lundy’s Lane, or Bridgewater. General Winfield Scott held an important command in each of these engagements, and was wounded in the latter. Towards the close of the summer, Sir George Prevost, having been strongly reenforced from Wellington’s army, invaded the United States from Canada, at the head of 14,000 men. He was accompanlied by a powerful fleet, which moved up Lake Champlain. He was met at Plattsburg, New York, on the 3d of September, by the little army of General Macomb and a small fleet under Commodore Macdonough. MIacdonough inflicted a terrible defeat on the British squadron, utterly routing it with heavy loss, and General Macomb at the same time repulsed every effort on the part of the land forces of Sir George Prevost, who, dismayed at his disasters, retreated hastily into Canada, with a loss of 2500 men and the greater part of his fleet. In August, a British army, under General Ross, landed on the shore of the Patuxent River, in Maryland, and advanced upon the city of Washington, defeating the small American force which sought to bar its way at Bladensburg. General Ross succeeded in occupying Washington, from which, after burning the public buildings, he retired to his fleet, which had ascended the Potomac to Alexandria, to meet him. He then passed up to Baltimore, landing at North Point, near that city, while his fleet made a sharp attack upon Fort McHenry, which commtanded the approach by water to the city. The fleet was repulsed by the fort, and Ross was killed in a skirmish near North Point. His successor at once reembarked the army, and abandoned the effort against Baltimore. At sea, the American frigates Essex and President were taken by superior forces of the enemy, while the British sloops of war, Epervier, Avon, Reindeer, Cyanle, Levant, and Penguin were captured by the American cruisers. During the remainder of the year, nothing of importance occurred on land, but in January, 1815, a British force of 12,000 of Wellington’s veteran troops made an attack upon the city of New Orleans, but were defeated with the loss of their commander and 2000 men, by 5000 American troops under General Jackson. This battle was fought after a treaty of peace had been signed in Europe between the United States and Great Britain, but before the news had reached America. The victory was most important to the Americans, for had the result been different, there can be little doubt that England would have disregarded the treaty and have clung to a conquest which would have given her the control of the mouth of the Mississippi. In this 147

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. THE PLAIN OF CIIALB[ETTE: SCENE OF THIE BATTLE OF NEW

ORlLEANS. case, either the war would have been prolonged upon a more fortmidable scale, or the destiny of the great West would love been miarred forever. The restoration of peace in Europe upon the downfall of Napoleon removed many of the vexatious issues which had produced the war in this country, and disposed the British Government to be just in its dealings with America. Negotiations were begun in 1814, and a treaty of peace was finally signed at Ghent, on the 24th of December, 1814. By the terms of this treaty, the two Governments agreed to settle the vexed question of a boundary between the United States and Canada, and to mutually return all territory taken during the 148

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THE UNITED STA’TES. war, and arranged some minor details relating to their future intercourse, but nothing was said of the question of the impressment of American seamen, the chief cause of the war. Inasmuch, however, as Great Britain has never since then attempted such outrages, this question also may be regarded as settled by the war. During the war, the Barbary States resumed their old acts of piracy upon Amnerican vessels, notwithstanding the pledges which they had given, and upon the return of peace with England, a strong naval force under Commodores Bainbridge and Decatur was sent to the Mediterranean. This expedition forced the Barbary Powers to make indemnity for their piracies, and to pledge themselves to cease to molest American vessels in the future. The Federalist party had always opposed the war with England, and during its continuance gave it no assistance beyond the aid which the laws of the land extorted from them. The strength of this party lav in the New England States, where the losses occasioned by the war fell heaviest. The Federalists denounced the war as unnecessary and unjust, and waged in reality for the benefit of France rather than of America, and complained that while they lost heavily by it, the Government did nothing for the protection of the Eastern States. To remedy the evils of which they complained, their leaders met in Convention at Hartford, Conn., near the close of the war. The Convention recommended certain measures to the Legislatures of the Eastern States limiting the power of the General Government over the militia of the States, and urged the adoption of several amendments to the Constitution. The news of the treaty of peace put a stop to all further proceedings of this body. The Convention resulted in nothing but the ultimate destruction of the Federalist party, which came to be regarded by the people at large as having been untrue to the Republic in its hour of need. Mr. Madison was reelected President, and Elbridge Gerry chosen VicePresident, in 1812. Thus the former had the satisfaction of conducting the war, which had been begun during his administration, to a successful close. He declined to be a candidate for a third term, and James Monroe, of Virginia, was nominated by the Democratic party, and elected in 1816, with Daniel D. Tompkins, of New York, as VicePresident. Mr. Monroe had been Secretary of State during the greater part of MIr. Madison’s administration. The return of peace found the country burdened wvithl a debt of $809000,000, and with almost a total absence of specie in its muercan 149

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tile transactions, the majority of the banks having suspended payments of gold and silver. In 1817, Congress established a National Bank at Philadelphia, with a charter for twenty years and a capital of $35,000,000. The notes of this institution supplied to a great extent the demand for a circulating medium of uniform value throughout the country, and did much to relieve the financial distress of the period. Two States were added to the Union during Mr. Madison’s administration, Louisiana (in 1812) and Indiana (in 1816). Mr. Monroe had been exceedingly popular as Secretary of State, and the good will of the people followed him into the Presidential chair. His administration proved so acceptable to all parties that he was reelected in 1820 by every electoral vote but one. Five new States were admitted into the Union during his continuance in office, viz: Mississippi (1817), Illinois (1818), Alabama (1819), Maine (1820), and Missouri (1821). For some years the opposition to African slavery in America had been spreading through the Northern States, and had been steadily gathering strength. When the territory of Missouri presented its petition to Congress for admission as a State with a Constitution sanctioning slavery within its limits, there was a very general determination expressed on the part of the Free-labor States to oppose the admission of another Slaveholding State. The Southern members of the Confederacy, on the other hand, insisted upon the right of Missouri to choose its own institutions, and threatened to withdraw from the Union if this right was denied her by excluding her from the Union. A bitter contest with regard to the subject of slavery now developed itself between the two sections of the Republic, which ceased only with the late Rebellion. The country was agitated in every portion, and the best men of the land expressed grave fears that the Union would be torn to pieces by the violence of the contending parties. After much wrangling, however, Henry Clay succeeded in procuring the passage of a series of measures known as the “Missouri Conmpromise.” By this arrangement, Missouri was admitted into the Union withl her slaveholding Constitution, and slavery was forever prohibited in that portion of the Territory of the Republic lying north of 36~ 30’ N. latitude. This Compromise was regarded as a final settlement of the slavery question, and had the effect of securing about thirty years of quiet and repose for the country. During Mr.

Monroe’s Presidency, the Spanish Republics of South America declared their independence of Spain, and successfillly main 150

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THE UNITED STATES. tained it for sgvwlol yoar. III 122, th6y W6er 6
i6ec6gnized by the United States. In his annual message for the year 1823, Mr. Monroe gave utterance to the following principle, whilch has since been dis tinctly recognized by successive administrations as the unwavering policy of the United States: “That as a principle the American con tinenits, by the free and independent position which they have assumed and mraintained, are henceforth not to be considered as subjects for future colonization by any European power.” This declaration is commonly known as the “Monroe Doctrine.” Mr. MAlonroe declined to be a candidate for reelection in the political campaign of 1824. A number of candidates were presented to the people, but the popular vote merely threw the election into the House of Representatives, when John Quincy Adamls, of Massachusetts, was chosen President. John C. Calhoun, of South Carolina, had already been chosen VicePresident by the people. The principal event of this administration was the adoption for the first time of a high tariff for the purpose of protecting American manufactures from the competition of foreignii importations. This act was sustained by the Northern people, who were engaged in manufactures, and for whose benefit it was adopted, but was bitterly denounced by the South, wihicl, being an agricultural country, naturally desired the liberty of buying her goods where they could be procured best and cheapest. The division of sentiment thus produced grew more distinct every day, and( brought about considerable trouble in the end. There can be no doubt that it was one of the principal causes of the late civil wvar. In 1828, Andrew Jackson, of Tennessee, was elected President over LMr. Adams, and John C. Calhoun chosen VicePresident a second time. The President, at the outset of his term, increased the number of his Constitutional advisers by inviting the PostmuasterGeneral to a seat in his Cabinet. The right of the Postmaster-General to such a place had never been conceded before, but has always been acknowledged since 1829. The new President began his career by advising Congress, in his annual message, not to extend the operations of the National Bank, whose directors sought a renewal of its charter. He declared that the existence of such an institution was not authorized by the Constitution. This inaugurated a long and bitter contest between the admiinistration and the friends of the bank, which was sustained by almost the entire mercantile community. In 1832, Congress passed 151

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. a bill renewing the charter of the bank, which was vetoed by the President. An effort was made to pass the bill over the veto, but failed for want of the constitutional number of votes. The charter of the bank, therefore, expired by law in 1836. The tariff question assumed formidable proportions, during this administration. In 1832, Congress increased the rate of duties. South Carolina immediately declared her intention to resist the efforts of the General Government to collect duties in the port of Charleston, and prepared to maintain her position by force of arms. The great leader of this opposition to the Government was John C. Calhoun, who had a short timne previous resigned the office of VicePresident, to become a United States Senator from South Carolina. His principal coadjutors were Robert G. Hayne, Senator from South Carolina, and George IMcDuffie, the Governor of the State. The party of which these brilliant men were the leaders, boldly declared that a State might at pleasure nullify any law of Congress which it believed to be unconstitutional. The danger to the country was very great, and it seemed that open war would prevail between the General Government and South Carolina; for President Jackson, who had been reelected in 1832, with MAIartin Van Buren of New York as Vice-Presideut, declared his determination to enforce the law. He sent a ship of war to Charleston, ordered General Scott to proceed to that place with all the available troops under his command, issued a proclamation denying the right of a State to nullify the laws of the Federal Government, and warning all persons engaged in sustaining the State of South Carolina in its unlawful course that the extreme penalty of the law against treason would be inflicted upon them. He also caused the leaders of the rebellion to be privately informed of his intention to seize and hang them as soon as they should commit the first overt act against the United States. The President’s firmness averted the troubles for the time. He was sustained )by the great mass of the people throughout the country, and the vexed question was finally settled by the introduction of measures into Congress for the gradual reduction of the obnoxious duties. This compromise was proposed by Henrry Clay, and accepted by the nullifiers, who were now convinced that “Old Hickory” was sincere in his threat to enforce the law.

The bank question came up again, just as the nullification excitement died out. The public funds wvere required by law to be deposited in the Bank of the United States, the charter of which was 152

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THE UNITED STATES. about to expire by limitation. The Presi(ldeit, in December, 1832, recommended the removal by Congress of these funds, but that body refused to take this step. The President then ordered the Secretary of the Treasury, Mr. MIcLane, to remove the funds and deposit theml in specified State banks. Mr. MeLane refused to do so, and was transferred to the State Department, whichl was then vacant. William J.

Duane was then appointed to the Treasury, but he, too, refused to remove the funds, and was deprived of his office and succeeded by Roger B. Taney, who promptly transferred the funds from the Bank of the United States to the State banks designated by the President. This step left no doubt on the part of the people of the intention of the President to destroy the National Bank, and produced a severe panic in business circles. The President lost many friends, and was severely denounced thlroughout the country. In the Senate, Clay, Calhoun and W\ebster, the leaders of the opposition, assailed hirm bitterly, and the Senate passed a resolution censuring his course, by a vote of 26 ayes to 20 noes. He was sustained by the House of Representatives, whose endorsement, considering the origin of that body, was more important than the censure of the Senate. In March, 1837, the Senate expunged its resolution of censure front its journal.

During President Jackson’s administration, the national debt was paid, and the States of Arkansas (in 1836) and Michigan (1837) were admitted into the Union. France, Spain, Naples, and Portugal were forced to make good their depredations upon American commerce; important commercial treaties were negotiated with foreign countries; and the war against the Seminole Indians in Florida was begun and prosecuted with vigor. This war lasted until 1842, and cost the country $40,000,000. In 1836, Martin Van Buren, of New York, the candidate of the Democratic party, was elected President.

The contest for the VicePresidency was thrown into the Senate, and resulted in the choice of Richard M. Johnson. Mr. Van Buren began his administration at the outset of the great commercial crisis of 1837, and was seriously hampered during the whole of his term, by the troubles arising from that disaster. The principal measures of his administration were designed to remedy the financial evils from which the country was suffering. The most important was the establishment of the Sub-Treasury of the United States, which is still in operation. In 1840, William Henry Harrison of Indiana, and John Tyler of Virginia, the candidates of the Whig party, were elected President 153

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TiIE GRE-AT RPEPUBLIC. and VicePresident. General Harrison did not long survive his inauguration. He died on the 4th of April, 1841, and was succeeded by John Tyler, the VicePresident. The Wihigs were in favor of a National Bank, and Congress passed several Acts chartering such an institution, all of which were vetoed by the President, whose views on the subject accorded with the principles of the Democratic party. In consequence of these Acts, he was abandoned by the party which had elected him, and was supported lby the Democracy, with which he thenceforth identified himself. During Mr. Tyler’s term, the question of the northwestern boundary between the United States and British America was settled by a treaty, which was ratified by the Senate on the 20th of August, 1842. A more real service was rendered, however, by the measures resulting in the annexation of the Republic of Texas to the United States, which were carried to a successful issue in spite of a determined opposition by the Whig party. Tile admission of Texas as a State of the Union, occurred on the 1st of March, 1845. It was a most important step, as it not only increased the territory of the Republic, but forever prevented Great Britaini from acquiring a foothold on the Gulf Coast of America. Mr. Tyler’s last official act was to approve the admission of the States of Florida and Iowa into the Union, on the 3d of March, 1845. In 1844, James K. Polk, of Tennessee, was elected President, with George M.

Dallas, of Pennsylvania, as VicePresident. This was a Democratic triumph.

V’rhen Mr. Polk came into office, the country was involved in a dispute with the Republic of Mexico respecting the boundary between the State of Texas and Mexico. This dispute resulted in hostilities between the two countries, which began on the Rio Grande, between the armies of Generals Taylor and Arista, in April, 1846. General Taylor defeated the Mexican army on the Rio Grande, at Palo Alto, May 8th, 1846, and at Resaca de la Palma, the next day. On being reenforced, he drove the Mexicans into the interior, capturing their strong city of Monterey, and defeating their best army, under their President himself, at Buena Vista (Feb. 22, 1847).

Taylor’s operations were now brought to a close in consequence of troops being taken from himn to reenforce General Scott, who was collecting his forces for an expedition against the city of Vera Cruz. Scott landed before that city on the 9th of March, 1847, and captured it, after a vigorous siege, on the 29th. Moving into the interior, he defeated the enemy in a series of hard fought battles at Cherubusco, Cerro Gordo, Chapultepec, and Molino del Rey, and captured the 154

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THE UNITED STATES. city of Mexico, which he entered in triumph on the 14th of Septem ber, 1847, and held until the close of the war. In 1846, General Stephell Kearney conquered New Mexico, while Commodore Stockton and Colonel Fremont drove the enemy out of and occupied California. Kearney marched from New Mexico into California in January, 1847, and on the 8th of February assumed the office of Governor of the territory, and proclaimed its annexation to the United States. About the same time Colonel Doniphan, with 1000 Missouri volunteers, made a forced march across the Plains, and on the 28th of February defeated a force of 4000

Mexicans and captured the city of Chihuahua. A treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico was signed at Guadalupe Hidalgo, on the 2d of February, 1848. Mexico yielded the boundary of the Rio Grande, and ceded California and New Mexico to the United States, and the latter Power agreed to pay Mexico the suml of $15,000,000, and to assume the debts due by Mexico to American citizens, to the amount of $3,750,000. Great Britain had claimed the territory of Oregon as a part of British America, and our Government had insisted upon it as a part of the common property of the Republic, and had even declared its intention to go to war with England rather than be satisfied with anything less than the whole of Oregon.

Nevertheless, as a measure of peace, the administration of Mr. Polk proposed to England the 49th parallel of North latitude for a boundary, our original claim having extended to the line of 54~ 40’. As this compromise gave to Great Britain all of Vancouver’s Island and the present colony of British Columbia, it was accepted. Recent events have proved that the territory was worth fighting for, and that our Government parted with it too readily. Free trade ideas prevailed during this administration to an extent sufficient to secure a modification of the high protective tariff of 1846. In May, 1848, WTisconsin was admitted into the Union. In 1848, Zachary Taylor, of Louisiana, was elected President, and MAillard Fillmore, of New York, VicePresident, by the Whigs. In this campaign, the antislavery party presented Martin Van Buren as their candidate for the Presidency. This organization had grown by degrees into considerable prominence upon the principle of opposition to the extension of slavery, and its strength in 1848 is shown by the fact, that although Van Buren secured no electoral vote, he received a popular vote of 291,263. 155

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The slavery question now presented itself again, this time in a most aggravated ibormn, for both the friends and enemies of that system of labor had become more powerful since the temporary settlement of 1820. A strong antislavery party had developed itself at the North, which was avowedly determined to oppose the further extension of slavery, and which was believed in the South to be working for the overthrow of that institution in the States in which it already existed. The contest was resumed in Congress, in 1846, while measures were on foot looking to peace with Mexico, by a proposition from a Northern member that in the territory which should be acquired by the war then going on, there should be neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, except for crime. This measure, known as the ” W\ilmot Proviso,” passed the House of Representatives by a large majority, but the Senate adjourned before a vote could be had upon it. The next year the House readopted the “Proviso,” which was rejected by the Senate. The House then abandoned it. The measure was bitterly assailed by the South, which claimed that inasmuch as it had furnished the larger number of the troops by which the war was fought and the territory won, its institutions should receive the same encouragement and protection in the new Territory as those of the North. The dispute became very bitter, and made the Presidential election of 1848 one of the most memorable in our history. Fresh excitement was added to the quarrel by the events in California. Gold was discovered in that Territory in February, 1848, and it at once attracted a large emigration from the Eastern States and all parts of the world. In a few months the population of the Territory was over 100,000. Early in 1849, it was found that an organized government was an absolute necessity, and that there were inhabitants enough to entitle the Territory to admission into the Union as a State; and in September, 1849, a Convention was held at Monterey, which adopted and submitted to Congress a Constitution prohibiting slavery. The Southern States took strong ground against the erection of California into a free State, and even went so far as to threaten to withdraw from the Union if slavery were interfered with any fiurther by the Government. They held a Convention at Nashville, Tennessee, in 1850, and pledged themselves to a united course of action. The tone assumed by them was belligerent and threatening in the extreme. They demanded in Congress not only the rejection of the free Constitution of California, but an amendment of the Constitutitionr of the United States which should equalize the power of the Free and 156

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TH-E UNITED STATES. Slave States ill tile General Government. New Mexico now asked admission into the Union, and Texas set up a claim to a western boundary which included a large part of New Mexico. These minor questions very greatly complicated the main issue. The excitement throughout the country was even greater than that of 1820, and for a while it seemed that the Union would surely be destroyed. Finally a compromise, known as the “Compromise of 1850,” was proposed in the Senate by Hienry Clay, and carried through Congress by great exertions on the part of the moderate men of both sections. This Compromise admitted California as a free State; erected Utah and New Mexico into Territories, leaving the question of the exclusion of slavery to the people thereof when they came to form State Constitutions; arrainged the western boundary of Texas; abolished the slave trade in the District of Columbia; and substituted a new law for the rendition of fugitive slaves, in place of the old Act, which was ineffective. This Compromise was bitterly opposed by the extreme men of both the North and the South. The former denounced the concessions to Texas in the boundary question, and fiercely assailed the refusal to forbid slavery in the Territories; and the fugitive slave law was not only denounced as unchristian and unconstitutional, but was opposed on the part of the Free States by a series of prohibitory acts vwhichl the candid student of history is compelled to regard as as unlla-wfuil as the disunion measures of the proslavery party. The South, on the other harnd, was furious over the admission of California as a free State, and the refiusal of Congress to sanction and protect slavery in the Territories.

Still, as it was plain that these measures embodied the only settlement possible at the time, the great body of the nation accepted them in good faith, and the Government honestly executed the fugitive slave lawv in all cases in which its aid was invoked, putting down the resistance of mobs by force. It the midst of the struggle over the “Compromise,” General Taylor died (on the 9th of July, 1850), and was succeeded by Millard Fiillore, the Vice-Presidenit, who opened his administration with a chainge of Cabinet ministers. He gave his lheairty support to the Compromise measures, and contributed greatly towards securing their passage. The principal events of his term were, the invasion of Cuba by Lopez, in 1851, which was defeated by the Spaniards; the visit of Kossuth to the United States, in 1851; the disputes with England concerning the fisheries, in 1852, which were satisfactorily settled; and the expedition of Commodore Perry to Japan, by means 157

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. of which an important treaty was negotiated with the Japanese Government, and the ports of the empire opened to the commerce of all nations. The slavery question entered largely into the Presidential campaign of 1852, and so greatly weakened the Whig party as to defeat it.

Franklin Pierce, of New lHampshire, and William R. King, of Alabama, the candidates of the Democracy, were elected Piesident and VicePresident by handsome majorities. This administration is memorable for the violent political contests which prevailed during its term. It began by settling a dispute with Mexico, by purchasing from it the Territory of Arizona. In 1853, Jefferson Davis, the Secretary of War, inaugurated the surveys for a railway to the Pacific, by sending out an expedition of U.S. Engineers for that purpose. In December, 1853, Mr. Douglas, the Senator from Illinois, introduced a bill organizing the Territories of Kansas and Nebraska, lying west of the Missouri River, and north of the line of 36~ 30’ N. latitude, in which region the Act of 1820 had forever prohibited slavery. This new bill repealed the Missouri Compromise Act of 1820, and reopened the slavery question in that region. The administrationl and the leaders of the Democratic party supported the measure, which was opposed by the great mass of the people of the free States without regard to party, and denounced by them as a violation of the plighted faith of the nation. It was hotly debated in Congress, but passed the Senate by a vote of 37 to 14, and the House by a vote of 113 to 100, and at length received the Executive approval on the 31st of May, 1854. The passage of this bill created the most intense excitement in the country. It greatly increased the strength of the antislavery party, which now began to be known as the Republican party, and alienated many Democrats from their party. The Act left the Territories free to decide between slavery and free labor, and thus opened the way for a long and bloody warfare within their limits; the events of which will be related in another part of this work. An effort was made by the administration to purchase Cuba firom Spain; but that Power declined to sell the island. An expedition of filibusters, under General William Walker, succeeded in conquering the Central American State of Nicaragua. Walker at once sent an envoy to WVashington, who was formally recognized by the President. The antislavery, or Republican party now exhibited its strength by electing Mr. Banks, of Massachusetts, Speaker of the Lower House of Congress, and in the Presidential contest of i856, nominated John 158

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THE UNITED STATES. C. Fremont as its candidate, and secured for him 114
electoral votes and a popular vote of 1,341,264. A new element in this contest was the Know-Nothing,, or American party, which supported Mr.

Fillmore for the Presidency. It was founded upon a principle of hostility to the influence of foreigners, and especially of Roman Catholics, in our Government. Mr. Fillmore received 8 electoral votes, and 874,534 popular votes. The election resulted in the choice of the candidates of tile Democratic party; James Buchanan, of Pennsylvania, was elected President, and John C. Breckenridge, of Kentucky, VicePresident. MIr. Buchanan’s administration was entirely Southern in its sympathies, and was marked by a constant struggle in Congress and throughout the country over the slavery question. The struggle in Kansas went on with great bitterness until the close of his term, the power of the Government being generally cast against the free settlers of that Territory, who were forced to take extraordinary measures for their defence. An effort was made to force a proslavery Constitution upon the Territory, and it split the Democratic party into two wingsthe larger of which, led by Stephen A. Douglas, united with the Republicans in opposing the Constitution; while the smaller, led l-)y the extreme Southern men in Congress, received the aid of the administration, and secured the adoption of the Constitution by Congress after a severe and protracted struggle. In 1858, Minnesota was admitted into the Union as a State, and was followed by Oregon in 1859. In 1857, the MIormon settlers of Utah Territory took up arms against the authority of the General Government. The rebellion continued for some time, and a military force was sent against the rebels; but the trouble was at length quieted without bloodshed. In October, 1859, John Brown, with a small band of followers, seized the United States Arsenal at Harper’s Ferry, and_
eideavored to incite the slaves of Virginia to revolt against their masters. -He and his men were captured by the United States troops, a lumber of them being killed by the soldiers in the fight. The survivors were turned over to the authorities of the State of Virginia, by whom they were tried, convicted, and hanged. This attempt was regarded in the South as incontestable evidence of the determination of the North to destroy slavery, while at the North a formidable party denounced the execution of Brown as a murder, and by their unwise and unpatriotic course greatly strengthened the hands of the leaders of the disunion movement in the South. 159

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Presidential election of 1860, turned mainly upon the question of slavery in the Territories. The Democratic party, already weakened by the Kansas question, now finally split into two fragments. The larger wing nominated Stephen A. Douglas, of Illinois, as their candidate.

They held that Congress had no power either to sanction or forbid slavery in the Territories, but that the question could be decided only by the people thereof, whlo were most interested in it. The smaller wing chose John C. Breekenridge, of Kentucky, as their cundidate, and declared it to be the express duty of Congress to sanetionl and protect slavery in all the Territories of the Republic, maintaiming that the Constitution of its own force carried slavery into them. The Republican party nominated Abraham Lincoln, of Illinois, as its candidate. This party denied any intention to interfere with the domestic institutions of any of thie States, but avowed its determination to prevent the introduction of slavery into the Territories by Congressional legislation, and denounced as false the doctrine that the Constitution established slavery in any part of the Union. It asserted the right of every community to manage its domestic affairs in its own way, and denounced the invasion of Virginia by John Brown as wicked and unjustifiable. A fourth party, known as the “Constitutional Union Party,” nominated John Bell, of Tennessee, for the Presidency, and adopted the following very vague and indefinite platform of principles: “The Union, the Constitution, and the enforcement of the laws.” The contest was bitter beyond all precedent. When the election took place, the result at the polls was as follows: Popular vote for Lincoln……… ” ” Douglas……… I “4 ” Breckelridge……. ‘4 “

“Bell………. The electoral vote was divided as follows: For bIncoln, 180; for Brecklenridge, 72; for Bell, 39; for Douglas, 12. The election of Mr. Lincoln was seized upon by the extreme proslavery leaders as a pretext for the withdrawal of the Southern States from the Union. The Gulf States had, indeed, during the early part of the Presidential contest, declared their deliberate determination to secede, in case of the election of a Republican President. Their people honestly believed that such a result of the campaign would be fatal to their institutions, inasmuch as they expected a Republican President to destroy the institution of slavery, forgetting in their alarm 160 1,866,452 1,375,157 847,953 590,631

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THiE UNITED STATES. that that official could have no power to harm them.

The disunion leaders took pains to deepen this vague fear. How well they succeeded is shown by the result. As soon as the election of Mr. Lincoln was definitely ascertained, the Legislature of Southl Carolina summoned a Convention of the people of that State, which met on the 17th of December, 1860. This Convention adopted an ordinance of Secession, and withdrew the State fiom the Union, on the 20th of December. The cause of this action was declared to be as follows: “We assert that fourteen of the States have deliberately refused for years to fulfil their Constitutional obligations, and we refer to their own statutes for proof….. In many of these States the fugitive is discharged from the service of labor claimed, and in none of them has the State government conimplied with the stipulations made in the Constitution….. Thus the Constitutional compact has been deliberately broken and disregarded by the nonl-slaveholding States; and thie consequence follows that South Carolina is released from her obligation.” Another cause was declared to be, “the election of a man to the high office of President of the United States whose opinions and purposes are hostile to slavery.” This declaration may be regarded as embodying the principal reasons assigned by the other States for their action. The secessionI of South Carolina was followed by that of Mississippi, January 9th, 1861, Florida, January 10thl, Alabama, January 11th, Georgia., January 19th, Louisiana, January 26thl, and Texas, Feb)ruary 1st. The forts, arsenals, and other public property of the United States in these States were seized by the State authorities, and held by their troops, except Fort Sumter, in Charleston Harbor, and Fort Pickens, near Pensacola, Florida. Fort Sumter was occupied by Mtajor Robert Anderson with 80 men. Major Anderson had originally occupied Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan’s Island, but knowing the p)irpose of the State authorities to seize tlhe public property at Cliarleston, he evacuated his post on the night of December 25tlh, 1860, and threw himself with his command into Fort Sumter. The General Government was at this time almost helpless. The army, but 16,000 strong, was posted on the remote frontier, and the available vessels of the navy were nearly all in foreign waters.

Many of the most prominent officials, including several of the Cabinet Ministers, were in open sympathy with the seceded States, and the President seemed only anxious to delay any definite action in the matter until the inauguration of his successor. His recommendations to 11 161

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Congress were not equal to the emergency. He was in favor of conced(ling everything but separate independence to the South, not seeing that the leaders of the secession movement would accept nothing but separation, and by his timidity lost the advantages which the Government would have gained by a bold and firm course. Still, he refused to yield to the pressure which was brought upon himn for the purpose of securing the surrender of Fort Sumter to the State of South Carolina. He also refused to sell the fort to the State, or to order Anderson back to Fort Moultrie, as he was urged to do. Various plans were proposed in Congress and by the States for the settlement of the national troubles, but none were attended with success. A Border State Convention met in Washington on the 4th of February, 1861, for this purpose, but adjourned, after a session of three weeks, without having accomplished anything of a definite character. The quarrel waxed hotter every day. An attempt on the part of the Government to send reenforcements and supplies to Fort Sumter was resisted by the forces of South Carolina, and the vessel charged with that duty was fired on, and turned back. South Carolina, through her Legislature, declared that any future attempt to send aid to Fort Sumter would be regarded as an act of war, and would be resisted by force. On the other hand, the Legislatures of New York, Ohio, and Massachusetts pledged those States to assist the President with their whole military force ” in putting down the rebellion.” On the 4th of March, 1861, Abraham Lincoln was inaugurated President of the United States. Here it is deemed best to bring this brief outline to a close. The history of the country since March, 1861, is well known to every reader of this book, and the numerous histories of themwar which have appeared since its close, some of which are to be found in every household, render the further extension of our narrative unnecessary. 162

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PART II. THE NEW ENGLAND STATES. .1

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I

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~~~$’~~~~ ~~~;;;~~~;~ l -AI N E. Ariea,………… 31,766 Square Miles.

Pol)ulation ill 1St;…….. C 628,279 PoI)ulation in 1870………

626,915 MAxINE is the most easterly of the United States. It is situated(
betweenv latitude 42~ 57’ and 47~ 32’ N., and longitude 66~ 52’ and 71~

06’ W. Its extreme length, from north to south, is 303 miles, and its extreme width 212 miles. Its average length is about 200 miles, and its average width about 160 miles. It covers an area of 20,330,240 acres. It is bounded on the north and northwest by Canada, on the east by New Brunswick, on the south and southeast by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the west by New Hampshire. TOPOGRAPHY. Beginning on the west at Kil,tery Point, and following the general coast line to Quoddy Head, on the east, the share of Maine measures about 278 miles; but if we follow its indentations, and include the islands, the coast line will measure 2486
miles. The coast is deeply indented with numerous bays and inlets, many of which form excellent harbors. Many islands lie along the shore, some of them of considerable size. .Iount Desert, the principal island, is situated in Frenchman’s Bay, and forms a part of Hancock county. It comprises an area of 60,000 acres, and is 15 miles long, and 12 broad. It is traversed from west to north by a range of thirteen granite peaks, rising to a height of from 1500 to 2300 feet. Mount Adam, or Mount Green, is the highest of these. Several beautiful lakes lie high up in these mountains. )Sole of these are quite large, and from nearly all of them flow clear, 165

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. cool streams, abounding ill trout. The southeastern coast is formed of huge cliffs, several hundred feet high. A narrow bay enters the island from the south side, and extends into the interior in a northerly direction for about seven miles. The scenery of the island is surpass ingly grand and beautiful, and attracts many visitors and artists.

Mount Desert is divided into 3 townships, Eden, Tremont, and Mount Desert.

It contains 6 small villages, 9 post-offices, 8 churches, and over 50
schools. Its population is about 4000. Shipbuilding and mackerel fisheries are carried on, and there is regular steamboat communication with Portland and Bangor. The island was discovered and named by the French near the year 1600. In 1613, a small French settlement was formed here, which was broken up soon after by an expedition from Virginia. It was first permanently settled by Abraham Somes, in 1761. Twenty miles to the southward is Mount Desert Rock, with a fixed light, 50 feet above the sea.

The other islands of the State which merit notice are Isle au Haut, at the entrance to Penobscot Bay, Deer, Long, and Fox islands, in that bay, and the Isle of Shoals, a group belonging in part to New Hampshire. The principal Bays are Passamaquoddy, Machias, Pleasant, Frenchman’s, Penobscot, Muscongus, Casco, and Saco. Passamaquoddy Bay lies at the southeast extremity of Maine, and separates the State from the British province of New Brunswick. It extends inland about 15 miles, and is 10
miles wide. It is irregular in shape, contains a number of islands, affords nulimerous good harbors, and receives the waters of the St. Croix River. Frenchman’s Bay extends inland about 30 miles. It contains Mount Desert and several other islands, and abounds in good harbors, which are never closed by ice. Casco Bay does not extend very far inland, but lies along the coast for a distance of 20 miles. It contains nearly 300
islands. Portland harbor opens upon it. The principal Rivers are the Penobscot, the Kennebec, the Androscoggin, the Saco, the Woolastook, and the Aroostook. The Penobscot is the largest river in the State. It is formed by two branches, the East and the West, which rise in northern Maine, and unite in the upper part of Penobscot county, near the centre of the State. The general course of the river is south-southwest, and it flows into the sea through Penobscot Bay. Its length from its mouth to the headwaters of its western and larger branch, is about 300 miles, 166

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lv i, ~ i’ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~  _N -M AN FO SCENE.

AN:\M~ElRlCAN FOREaST ASCENE.

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MAINE. but from the junction of the two branches to its mouth, the distance is only 135 miles. It meets the tide water at Bangor, 60 miles from the sea. At this point the tides rise to a height of 17 feet. The river is navigable to Bangor for vessels of all classes, and for small steamers above that place. It receives through the West branch the waters of Chesuncook and Pemadumcook lakes, and through the East brancllh those of the Seboois lakes. Its upper part affords valuable water power. There are a number of villages and towns on the river. Bang,or is the only city on its banks. The Kennebec River rises in Moosehead Lake, ill Somerset county, Maine, and flows southward into the Atlantic Ocean. Its length is 150 miles, and as its total descent in this distance is over 1000 feet, it affords most excellent water power. It is navigable for sloops to Hallowell, 40 miles, and for all vessels to Bath, 12 miles from the sea.

It is closed by ice early in December, and remains frozen until early in April. Bath, Hallowell, Augusta, Waterville, and Norridgewock are the principal towns on its shores. The A)Ldroscogyin is a tributary of the Kennebec. It rises in Coos county, New Hampshire, and empties into the Kennebec 20 miles from the sea. It is 140 miles long. The Saco tRiver rises among the White Motintains, in Coos county, New Hampshire, and flowing southeasterly through Maine, empties into the Atlantic near the northeast corner of York county. It is broken in several places by considerable falls, which afford fine water power, and is subject to sudden and dangerous freshets. The last falls are only 4 miles from the sea. Saco, Biddeford, and Hollis are its principal towns. The IVoolastook and Aroostook drain the northern part of the State, and flow into the St.

John, a river of New Brunswick. The State is well supplied with rivers and other streams, which not only afford fine water power, but furnish a means of floating vast quantities of lumber from the interior to the coas t. A number of Lakes are scattered through Maine, some of which are very beautiful. The principal are Umbagog, Sebec, Chesuncook, Schoodic, Baskahegan, Long, Portage, Eagle, Madawaska, Millikonet, and Sebago.

Mloosehead Lake is the largest in the State. It is situated between Somerset and Piscataquis counties, and is very irregular in shape. It is al)out 35 miles long, and ten nmiles across at its widest point. The waters are very deep, and abound in trout. The scenery is wild and 1I7 ‘tI

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. l)eautiful. On the west side Mount Kineo overhangs the water at a height of 600 feet, and affords a view of great but wild beauty. An hotel has been erected about midway, for the accommodation of travellers. Numerous islands stud the lake, which is navigated by steamers engaged in towing lumber to the Kennebec River, which forms the outlet.

The surface of the State is generally hilly and diversified. To wards the coast it is level, but rises towards the interior. A chain of detached mountains, supposed to be an extensioni of the White Moun tains of New Hampshire, crosses the State from west to northeast, terminating in MLars Hill on the border of New Brunswick. These peaks rise to a considerable elevation, and( are very beautiful. ~lIouiit atahdin, 5385 feet high, is the b)est known, as well as the most picturesque. It is situated in the eastern part of Piscataquis county, and is frequently visited by artists and the more daring tourists. The other peaks are the Saddleback, Bigelow, Abraham, North and South Russell, and the Haystack. The Forests of Maine furnish an immense amount of valuable lumber, and large numbers of hardy men are employed in cutting and floating the logs down the streams. The great forests lie in the upper part of the State, around the sources of the Kennebec, Penobscot, Aroostook, and Woolastook rivers. Mr. Charles Lanmani thus pleasantly describes them: “Their extent can only be realized by fixing the mind upon the whole northern half of the State, which they cover with their sombre green, and by remembering the fact that no less than four splendid rivers have their birth in this great wilderness-the St. Croix, the Penobscot, the Kennebec, and the Androscoggin. According to such figures as we have been able to collect, the number of sawmills and other lumbering machines in operation on the above rivers, just before the rebellion, was nearly 900, the number of men employed about 17,000, and of horses and oxen perhaps 10,000; wshile the towns which are, to a great extent, supported by the lumbering business are Calais, Bangor, Augusta, and Brunswick, as well as Portland. The predominating tree in the wilderness tinder consideratioln, as is the case in Minnesota and Wisconsin, is the white pine, but the hemlock, the fir, and the spruce are also abundant in all its borders. It is said that fifty years ago specimens of the pine were found in Maine which attained the height of more than 200 feet, but in these times it is but seldom that we find a tree exceeding 150 feet in length. The grand lC)$ i.I

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MAIN’E. TIIE PINE FORESTS OF MIAINE. old monarchs of the land would seem to have perished with grief on beholding the ravages of man. But there is all aristocracy existing in these woods at the present day, for it has been observed that there are different classes of trees-families of nobility clustering together in one place-while the more plebeian varieties congregate in communities by themselves. Were it not for the changing seasons and its living creatuLres, the monotony of this forest scenery would be well nigh unbearable; but summer fills every sunny nook with its bright flowers, and winter scatters everywhere the fantastic creations of the frost and snow. It is in these solitudes that the bold and hardy Penobscot Indian hunter tracks the moose and the deer, fights the bear in his den, decoys the gray wolf, and sets his traps for the wild cat 169

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. and mink, the marten, the sable, anid the beaver; and if, in the most genial seasons, there should be found a scarcity of birds, you can never fail to hear the plaintive whistle of the Canada bird, or miusci capa of scientific dreamers. In thie Valley of the Potomac this favorite bird of ours is the very first harbinger of spring, coming from the South even before the blue-bird; a(nd when heard there late in autumn, you may be sure that winter has asserted his empire on the N7orthern frontiers. We have heard it in the piie forests of Florida, among the mountains of Tennessee, along the glorious rivers of New Brunswick, Canada, and a part of Labrador, but never with more pleasure than in the forests of Maine. When away from home, it always carries us back in fancy to the region where our lot is cast, and to our firiends; and when at home it reminds us of far-off places and other friends linked with happy recollections. Its whole life, it seems to us, is devoted to singing, in a kind of monotone, about the joys of the wilderness. “Of permanent human inhabitants, the forests of Maine can boast of but a small supply; but for about nine months in the year the hardy lumbermen, consisting of explorers and choppers, of swampers, or road-cutters, and teamsters, make their dim, interminable aisles alive and cheery with their presence and manifold employments. In the autumn, small parties, equipped like trappers, go up the rivers in canoes and locate the lands which are to be grappled with in winter; and when winter comes, the great majority, with their oxen and axes, their salt pork and flour, migrate to the selected grounds, and, after housing themselves and their cattle in cabins half covered with snow, they proceed to the work of extermination; and when the spring arrives, down to the tributary streams do they drag their logs; and when the first great thaw arrives, away they go down the larger rivers, driving the produce of their toil through lakes and lakelets, and over waterfalls, with many a wild and wayward shout, until they reach the booms where they would be; and then for fome and their lhappy families nearer the sea. All this for money? Most true. But where will you find better specimens of true manhood than among these lumbermen? And as for poetry and romanace, where can we find their equal among the laborers for hire in any land but ours? Fancy the heart-bursts of true patriotism, and the-wild stories told by the side of their watch-fires, the hoot of the great white owl at mnidnig,ht in those dim solitudes, the white moonlight on the still whiter snow, the ringing cadences of the frost, the wolf prowling for food 1 It 0

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MAINE. around the sleeping camps, the cave-like forest pictured against the cold blue sky, the terrible storms of sleet and hail, and then the thousand dreams of wives and children sleeping in their distant and peaceful homes. “The continuousness of the Maine woods, taken in connection with their extent, is one of their most impressive features.

Unless there were something to relieve their monotony, a sensitive man could never have journeyed from one extreminity to another without becoming a personification of gloomn; but behold with what exquisite taste and skill nature interposes her relief! She plants old Moosehead near the centre of the great forest, and scatters a thousand smaller gemns of purest water on every side; bids a few mountain peaks rise up as watch-towers against the northern sky; sends the most beautiful rivers like flashes of light in every direction singing to the sea; and inl a few localities spreads out those wonderful fields which have been denominated’oceans of moss,’ sometimes several feet in thickness, and in one instance covering a space of many miles. But more than this: around the lakes and along the watercourses are permitted to grow as great a variety of the more delicate and graceful trees as the climate will allow, with shrubs and vines, and flowers innumerable. All this is the workmanship of nature; but it is man who marks the earth with ruin, and, not content with robbing the old forests of their giant treasures, he sometimes sets them on fire for his amusement, or by accident, and thus conme into existence the desolate burnt districts to take the places of trees once valuable, and grand, and beautiful. “The last object that the wide-awake tourist beholds on leaving the great wilderness of Maine, is Mount Katahdin; and that reminds us of the mountain forests of the Northern and Southern States. The representative peaks of the North are Katahdin, Mount Washington, the Camel’s Hump, Tahawus, and High Peak; and around all these are to be found the hemlock and spruce, the cedar and fir-, the maple, thle ash, the elm, and the birch, in such numbers, and variety, and beauty as to bewilder the mind. The declivities up which travellers climb oftentimnes frown upon them as if to warn them of coming danger, but the tough and rugged trees plant their roots in the rocky fissures and hold on with heroic fortitude; nor do they cease their persevering efforts, while apparently changing their places at each zone, until, robbed of their luxuriance and reduced to mere bushes by the savage winds and by the cold, they peep out from their hiding places only to behold the stupendous fields of granite desolation, thou 1,1

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TlHE GIELAT i’EPUBLIC. A LJNIBERIAN’S CAMIP IN TIIE WOODS OF MAINE. sands of feet above the sea, shrouded in fogs, or bounded by the sea.

Inaccessible, for the most part, as are these Northern forests, the enterprise of man has been such as to penetrate their hidden depths for his advantage, and plunder them of their wealth. In Maine, selfish man robs them of their stately leaders; in New Hampshire, he builds fairy-like palaces, and invites the world to come there and be happy; in Vermont, he gashes the maple trees and compels them to yield up, for his enjoyment, the sweetness of their lives; and in Nlew York he hammners out of their mountain sides, in their lonely retreats, the valued iron ore, and meanly strips the hemlock of its shaggy bark, and leaves it to perish ingloriously upon the hills.” 172

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MAINE. MINERALS. The mineral resources of Maine are limited. Copper pyrites, lead, and manganese are found in smill quantities, but iron, lime, and a fine granite are plentiful. The principal iron deposit occurs on the Aroostook River, about 50 miles from its mouth, and the country along the west branch of the Penobscot furnishes a limited quantity of an excellent marb)le. A fine quality of slate is found in the region between the sources of the IKennebec and St. John rivers. The granite of which the TreasuryT Extension in WTashington City is built, was brought fromn the coast of Maine. CLIMATE. The climate of Maine is considered healthy, in spite of the extreme northeastern situation of the State, because it is less subject than that of the other New England States to sudden and violent changes. Tlhe winters are severe and long. The mercury sometimes falls to 20 or 30 degrees below zero, but for the greater part of the season there is a uniform temperature averaging about 18~. The summers, though short, are warin. The thermometer has b)een known to indicate a heat of 100~, but the average temperature is about 60~. The snow lies on the ground from 3 to 5 months, and the season of vegetation lasts scarcely 4 months. The spring and early summer are rendered unpleasant by the cold northeast winds, which sweep down from the ice-fields of the Atlantic.

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil is not uniform. Between the Kennebec and Penobscot, the lands are generally good and productive, and the same may be said of the valley of the St. John and the country watered by some of the lesser rivers. The lands in the mountainous districts and along the coast are for the most part poor, and require laborious culture. In 1869, there were 2,704,133 acres of improved lands, and 2,996,622 acres of ullimproved(l lands in the State. Its agricultural wealth in the same year may be stated as follows: Cash value of farms,…… -…. $80,000,000ooo Value of farming implements and machinery, $3,400,000 Number of horses,………. 71,110 ” asses and mules…….. 1608 173

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THE GREAT Number of milch cows,….. ” other cattle…… sheep,……….

swine,……. Value of domestic animals,… Bushels of wheat,……. “
rye……… ” Indian corn,.. ” oats,…….. ” peas and beans,.. ” Irish potatoes,…. barley,……. ” buckwheat,…… clover-seed,….. Pounds of wool,…….. ” butter…….. cheese,…….. hops……..

flax,……….. maple sugar,…… ” beeswax and honey,.. Tons of hay………. Value of orchard products,… market garden products,. “
home made manufactures, ” slaughtered animals,.. COMMERCE. The staple export of Maine is lumber. The coast offers the best inducements for commerce of any State in the Union. It is so thickly studded with bays and navigable rivers that vessels can find an excellent harbor at any point along its whole length. Shipbuilding is carried on to a considerable extent. The commercial returns for the year 1860 were as follows: Value of lumber produced during the year,.. $6,784,981 Product of the fisheries,……….1,050,755 Besides these, large quantities of marble, granite, lime, and ice are produced, of which we have no statistics. The tonnage owned in the State in 1863 was 774,040 tons. In 1863, the total foreign imports were $3,911,468, and the exports $7,016,342. In the same year, only 99 vessels were built in this State, which in 1853 built 351 of all classes. 174 REPTJBLIC. 190,110 230,110 501,210 65,340 $19,437,538

248,000 158,000 1,450,000 3,200,000 346,915 7,500,000 750,000 350,000

50,000 1,495,063 11,687,781 1,799,862 102,987 17,081 306,742 323,454

1,050,000 $501,767 $194,006 $490,787 $2,780,179

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‘IAINE. MANUFACTURES. According to the census of 1860, there were in that year 3582 es tablishments in Maine devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed 39,710 hands, possessed a capital of $22,000,000, consumed raw material to the amount of $20,861,452 (including fuel), and produced goods worth $36,075,498. Of these establishments, 19
were cotton manufactories, employing 1908 male and 4342 female hands, consuming annually $3,000,000 worth of raw material, paying annually $1,244,928 for labor, and producing $6,636,623 worth of goods; and 61 were woollen mills, with a capital of $989,400, employing 604 male and 499
female hands, consuming $1,047,496 worth of raw material, paying $277,440
for labor, and producing goods worth $1,674,800. There were $2,011,034
worth of leather; 5300 tons of rolled iron, wvorthl $332,000; $681,295
worthl of steam engines and machinery; $339,180 worth of agricultural implements; $1,400,000 worth of flour; and $36,000 worth of malt and $142,000 worthl of spirituous liquors produced during the same year. The manufacturing interest of Maine has greatly increased since 1860. In 1868, the capital invested in manufactures amounted to $40,000,000, and the annual value of fabrics produced to $81,287,695. The wvater-power of the State is immense, and holds out the best inducements to manufacturers.

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The State is making steady progress in internal improvements. In 1860, there were 14 railroads in Maine, having an aggregate length in the State of 472 miles, which had been constructed at a cost of $16,576,385. The Grand Trunk, which extends from Portland, through New Hampshire and Vermont to Quebec and Montreal in Canada, passes through Maine for but a short distance. It is a firstclass road, in respect to the amount of business done by it. The Maine Central is 138
miles long, and extends from Portland to Bangor, passing through Auburn and Waterville. The Portland and Kennebec, extending from Portland to Skowhegan, through Richmond, Gardiner and Augusta, is 100 miles long There are other thriving lines in the State, one of which (the Portland, Saco, and Portsmouth) connects Portland with Portsmouth, N. H. The only canal in the State is the Cumberland-Oxford, uniting 1,5

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. Portland with Sebago, Brandy, and Long Ponds. It is 20 miles long, and has 26 locks. Together with the Songo River improvei-ments, it forms a navigable line of 50 miles, constructed at a cost of 850,000. EDUCATION. Maine has a permanent school fund, drawn from the sale of lands donated for that purpose by the State. Besides this, the banks are taxed onehalf of one per cent. oil their capital, and the towns are assessed at the rate of 40 cents per capita, for educational purposes.

In 1860, Maine had 2 colleges and 337 students, 110 academies and other schools, with 8273 pupils, and 4376 public schools with 186,717 pupils. In the same year, the whole number of pupils, between the ages of 4 and 21
years, at all the schools in the State, was 244,920. In 1868, this number had been reduced to 225,290, a falling off due to the actual decrease of children in the State. In 1850, the proportion of minors in the State was 49 per cent. of the whole population, but in 1860 it was only 36 per cent.

This, too, in spite of the fact that the population of Maine has steadily grown larger. It is doubtless due to the fact that children are not now as much desired as in the better days of the community. * In 1868, the number of schools in the State was 3782. A writer in the Annual Cyclopaedia for 1867, says: ” The permanent school fund amounts to $245,121.23, the income of which for the past year is $13,244.14. The receipts fromnt the bank tax are rapidly falling off, being but $4475. The people are determined, however, that the schools shall not suffer. They have raised, by direct taxation, the sum of $518,292.97, an average of $2.28 a scholar, and built seventy-nine new schoolhouses, at a cost of $323,581.13. Add to this the sum of $15,316.93, contributed to prolong public schools, with $40,614.33, paid for private schools and academies, and $6,428.25 paid out of the State for the same purposes, making an aggregate expenditure for schools of $935,131.75, and you have abundant proof that the burdens and discouragements of the times are not allowed to diminish the interest of the people ill common school education. There are also two Normal Schools, both of which are in a flourishing condition, and are liberally sustained.

“The State has chartered a College of Agricultural and Mechanic *

Appletonl’s Cyclopl)‘di-, S1868. I t l)

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MAINE. Arts, and commenced tile erection of suitable buildings for its ulses. …. The Reform School has entered upon a course of unusual prosperity.” In 1860, there were 814 libraries, containing a total of 405,901 volumes. There were 283 public libraries, comprising 215,437 vols.

In the same year, there were 70 newspapers and periodicals pul)lishled in the State. These consisted of 7 daily, 4 triweekly, and 317 weekly political papers, 6 weekly religious papers, 4 weekly an(d monthly literary journals, and 1 daily, 5 weekly, and 3 monthly journals of a miscellaneous character. These had an aggregate annual circulation of 8,333,278 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The public institutions of Maine, are the State Prison, at Thomaston, the Insane Asylum, at Augusta, and the State Reform Sellool, at Cape Elizabeth. The State Prison was muchI enlarged and improved in 1867. It is not adequate to the necessities of the cotmmunity, however, and in 1867, was so overcrowded that its earnings fell p7000 short of its expelnditures. The number of prisoners in 1866 was 13S, against 78 in 1865. The number of inmates in the In,sane Asyluhet in 1867 was 303-144 men and 159 women. The institution is well supported by the State, and has received several endowments. TIhe State Reform School, in 1870, contained 254 innmates, of whl-om 71 we recommitted during the year. The children, upon being, admitte(l to this school, are employed on the farm or in the work-shopls. Thlley are kindlv treated, and, as a general rule, a great chlange takes pla(e( for the better in their morals a few months after their commitmenlt. The actual cost of the school to the State for 1868, was about $13,945, the earnings of the boys making utp the remainder of tllc expenses. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in Maine was $2,886,905; and the number of churches, 1167.

FINANCES. The public debt of the State on the 31st of December, 1870, was $7,067,000, and is due in 1871, 1883, and 1889. The alLmounLt paid off in 1870 was $33,000. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal 12 I X  I i

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-THE GREAT REPUBLIC. year were $4,924,164.12, and the expenses of the State $5,041,846.64. On Janutary 1st, 1870, there was a cash balance in the Treasury of $235,930.63. On the 1st of October, 1868, there were 61
zNational banks doing business in the State, with an aggregate capital of $9,085,000. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of the State was adopted in 1820. Every adult miale citizen of the United States, not a criminal, is entitled to a vote in the elections. The Govlernment of the State consists of a Legislature, comprising a Senate and House of Representatives, and a Governor, all chosen by the people. The Governor is elected annually, and is assisted in his executive duties by a Council of seven members, elected on joint ballot l)y the houses of the Legislature.

The Senate consists of 31 meml)ers, and the House of Representatives of 151 members, all chosen annually by the people, on the second Monday in September. The Legislature meets at Augusta, on the first Wednesday in January in each year. The chief executive officers are the Secretary of State and the State Treasurer, both chosen by the joint ballot of the Legislature. There is a probate court with a judge and register in each county, and municipal and police courts in the several cities. Cases originating within the jurisdiction of these bodies are tried before them.

The Sutplreeie J?,(licial Cour-t of the State consists of a Chief Justice and seven Associate Justices, an Attorney General, and a Reporter of Decisions. Courts are held in three districts, for the purpose of hearing and determining cases brought before them. The Court for the Eastern district sits at Bangor, that for the Middle district at Augusta, and that for the Western district at Portland. The income of the State is derived chiefly from direct taxes, sales of land, and a tax on the banks. The seat of Government is established at Augusta. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 16 counties. HISTORY. Maine was first visited in 1602 by Gosnold, who was followed in 1603 by Martin Pring. A French expedition, under Des MoIts,, passed the winter of 1604 at the present site of Calais, on the St. Croix. Des Monts took possession of the region of the Kennebec the next spring, and was granted a patent for it by the French King. Tlhe province was visited by Captain George Wveymouth, in 1605, i, 8

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MAINE. and in 1607 the first colony was established by thie Plymouth Com pany. This settlement was abandoned in one vear. A French colony was sent out in 1613, by MAadame de Guerchleville, who had pur chased the patent of Des MIonts, and planted on Mount Desert Island for missionary purposes.

This settlement was broken up by an expe (lition from Virginia. In 1614, the coast was thoroughly explored I)h Captain John Smith, who publisIhed an account of it on his return to England. The Plymouth Company obtained a renewal of their charter from James I., in 1620, and, as the region granted them in clu(led the present State of Massachusetts, bitterly opposed the forma tion of settlements by the Pilgrims at Plymouth and Salem, but without effect. In 1621, Ailliam Alexander, who subsequently became Earl of Stirling, purchased from the Company the territory east of the St. Croix River; which stream, unitil this day, formis the eastern boundary of l Maine. The next year, Monhegan was settled by emigrants from, Great Britain. Saco was settled in 1623. These settlements prospered even better than their founders had ventured to hope. In 1629, the Plymouth Company established the western boundary of Maine, by selling to John MIason the territory “lying between the Aterrimaek and Piseataqua rivers,” to which they gave the name of Newv Hampshire. In 1635, the Company surrendered its charter to the king, and divided its territory among its members. The country between the Piscataquis and the Kennebec was assigned to Sir Ferdinando Gorges, who, in 1639, was confirmed in his possession by a formal charter from Charles I., who called the territory the Province of Ataine. Gorges was also appointed Governor-General of New England with almost despotic powers. In 1640, he sent his son Thomas to Mlaine as his deputy. Thomas Gorges took up his residence at the settlement of Agamenticus, now the town of York, and in 1642 changed the name of the place to Gorgeana. Since the settlement of the colony, the French had claimed the region between the St. Croix and the Penobscot, which they had settled under the name of Acadie, and after the death of the elder Gorges the province was still further divided among his heirs.

These cut it up into four weak communities, whose helplessness laid them open to the encroachments of the French in Canada. Apprehensive of this result the colony of Massachusetts Bay, incited to such a course by the entreaties of many of the inhabitants, set tpl) a claim, in 1651, to the province of MAaine, which it declared had been granted to the colony by the origiinal charter of Massachusetts. Commissioners were sent 11,9

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. to admit the province into the jurisdiction of the Bay Colony, but the authorities of Maine resisted them, and appealed to the Government of Great Britain. The people of Maine were adherents of the kling and the established Church, and England was now ruled by the Puritans. Consequently Massachusetts won her cause, and Maine was declared a part of that Colony. Massachlusetts made a generous use of her authority, however, and allowed the towns of Maine very mu(1i the same privileges and government as they now enjoy, and in religious matters was far more tolerant to them than to her own people. This forbearance, joined to the natural liberality of the province, entirely exempted it from the religious persecutions which have stained the history of the other colonies. In 1653, Cromwell declared void the transfer of Acadie to the French, which had been made by Charles I. in 1632, and appointed a Governor of that territory, who held his office until the treaty of Breda, in 1669, by which Acadie was restored to France. Upon the restoration of Charles II., the heirs of Sir Ferdinando Gorges succeeded in obtaining a royal order, restoring the province of MAaine to them. Massachusetts resisted this order, but in 1670 settled the matter by purchasing the interests of the claimants for the stini of twelve hundred and fifty pounds sterling. In 1675, King Philip’s war began in New England. Maine came in for her full share in these horrors; and from this time until 1760, nearly one hundred years, was never free from incursions by the savages. This constant danger greatly retarded her progress. Settlers were afraid to venture within her limits, and many of those vlwh-o had already established themselves there removed to the other colonies. The Duke of York having received from Charles II. a grant of the Dutch territories in North America, set up a claim to the region between the Kenneb)ec and St.

Croix rivers; which claim was resisted by Massachusetts, who advanced(l her boundary to the west shore of Penobscot Bay. The duke sent Sir Edmundu( Andros to America, as Governor of New York and Mlaine; but his authority in the latter province was not recognized by Massachusetts. Upon the accession of the duke to the English throne as James II., Andros wras made Governor of all New England, where he was guilty of the most outrageous extortion. The charter of Massachusetts having been declared forfeited, the Colony was powerless to protect the injured people, and Andros had his own way until the Revolution of 1688, which placed W,illiami and Mary on the English throne, overthrew him, and restored the foLrmler state of affairs. iso

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MAINE. During the Revolution, Mlaine, which continued to form a part of the State of Massachusetts, was almost entirely exempted from the disasters of the war; and the power of the savages being destroyed, commencped to increase rapidly in population and wealth. The war of 1812
exposed the province to great suffering at the hands of the English, who occupied and held the eastern portion of the State until the conclusion of peace. In 1820, Massachusetts, wishing to offset the growing power of the Southern States, signified her willingness to part with MIaiiie. A State Constituition was accordingly adopted by the people of the province, and on the 15th of March, 1820, Maine was admitted into the Union as a State.

Tile Treaty of 1783 failed to establish the eastern boundary of MIaine with accuracy; and for more than hialf a century, the Governmients of the United States and Great Britain were involved in a cointroversy concerning it, whichl at length bade fair to emb)roil the two countries in another war. In 1842, the Treaty of Washlington adjusted the dispute and settled the boundary as it exists at present. The United States and Maine agreed to cede to Great Britain a small part of the territory claimed by her, in retlrni for the free navigation of the St. John’s and for Rouse’s Point in New York. During the Rebellion, Maine was subjected to two incursions of the Southern forces. On the night of the 29th of June, 1863, the officers and crew of a Conlfederate privateer captured the U. S. revenue cutter Caleb Cushing, in the harbor of Portland, and carried her to sea. They were pursued by two steamers mlanned( by armed volunteers, and overhauled a short distance from the city. Finding escape impossible, they blew up the cutter, and took to their boats, but were speedily overtaken and made prisoners. “At midday, on July 18thl, 1864, a bold attempt was made to rob the Calais Bank, in that town, by a small party of rebel rilers from St.

John, N. B., led by one Collins, a captain in a Mississippi regiment. But the town authorities having been previously put onI their guard by the American Consul at St. John, three of the party were arrested and committed, and the remainder prudently kept out of the way. This attempt, though frustrated, created an uneasy feeling along the eastern frontier; and in Eastport, Calais, Belfast, and other border towns, volunteer organizations were formed for the purpose of patrolling the streets at night, and the regular police force was increased and armed.” 181

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. During the Rebellion, Maine furnished an aggregate force of 71,558 men to the army and navy of the United States. Of these, 8446 were killed in battle or died from wounds and sickness, and 6642 were mustered out for disabilities resulting from wounds or sickness while in active service. CITIES AND TOWNS. The cities of Maine are Augusta, Bangor, Bath, Belfast, Biddeford, Calais, Gardiner, Hallowell, Portland, and Rockland. The principal towns are Camden, Eastport, Ellsworth, Frankfort, Kittery, Lewiston, Old Town, Saco, Thomaston, Waldoborough, Waterville, and Wiscasset. AUGUSTA. The city of Augusta is situated in Kennebec county, on the Kennebec River, at the head of navigation, 43 miles from the sea. It is 60 muiles north-northeast of Portland by railroad, and 175
miles firom Boston. It lies on the right bank of the Kennebec, which is spanned by two fine bridges, one used by vehicles and pedestrians and the other by the railroad. The city is built partly upon the crest of a hill, and partly along the river at the foot of the hill. The former portion is occupied principally by private residences, while the latter is devoted to business. It is well built, and contains many handsome edifices, the principal of which is the State House, a splendid structture of white granite, located in the southern part of the city, and fironted by a large and tasteful park. A United States Arsenal, and the State Insane Asylum, lie on the opposite side of the river, and are attractive features of the landscape. Augusta is well supplied with waterpower by means of a large dam constructed across the Kennebec, a short distance above the city. This dam also affords water enough for steamboat commdinication between Augusta and Waterville when the stream is not closed by ice. There are several large manufacturing establishments in the city, 4 or 5 banks, an excellent female academy, 9 or 10 churches, and 8 or 9 hotels. It is connected with Portland and Bangor by railroad and steamnboat. The greater part of the business portion of the city was destroyed by fire in 1865. The population in 1868 was 10,000. The city was founded in 1754. Four weekly papers and one monthly are published in Augusta. 182

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MAINE. POR’I’I.LAND. The principal city of the State, “is handsomely situated on a p)eninsula, occupying the ridge and side of a high point of land, in the soutlhwest extremity of Casco Bay, and, on approaching it from the ocean, is seen to great advantage. The harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, the anchorage being protected oni every side by land, whilst the water is deep, and communication with the ocean direct and convenient. It is defended by Forts Preble, Scammrell, and Gorges, and dotted over with lovely islands. These islands afford most delightful excursions, and are among the greatest attractions of the vicinity. On the highest point of the peninsula is an observatory, 70 feet in height, commanding a fine view of the city, harbor, and islands in the bay. The misty forms of the White Mountains, 60 miles distant, are discernible in clear weather. The original name of Portland was Muchi.qonne. It was first settled by the whites as an English colony in 1632, just two centuries before the charter of the present city was granted. On the night of the 4thl of July, 1866, a fire occurred which swept away nearly onehalf of the entire business portion of the city. “Portland is elegantly built, and the streets beautifully shaded and embellished with trees, and so profusely, that there are sai(l to be no less than 3000 of these rural delights. Congress Street, previous to the fire the main highway, follows the ridge of the peninsula through its entire extent. Among the publ)ic buildings of Portland, the City Hall (rebuilding), the Court House, and some of the churches, are worthy of particular attention. The Society of Natural History, organized 1843, possesses a fine cabinet, containing specimens of the ornithology of the State, more than 4000 species of shells, and a rich collection of mineralogical and geological specimens, and of fishes and reptiles. The Atheneumn, incorporated in 1826, has a library of 12,000 volumes; and the Mercantile Library possesses, also, many valuable lbooks. The Marine Hospital, erected in 1855, at a cost of $80,000, is an imposing edifice. Brown & Co.‘s extensive sugar refinery, wholly destroyed by the late fire, has been rebuilt, and will shortly be in operation. The city is being rebuilt as rapidly as possible.

Population, 31,414. The vicinity has several fine drives.” * Portland was formerly called Falmouth. It was incorporated as. town, in 1786. In 1676, the savages made a descent upon it, and captured or killed thirty of the inhabitants, and compelled the rest to * Hand-Book of American Travel. I 811),

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. CITY HALL AND COURT IOUSE, PORTLAND. seek safety on a neighboring island(. In 1689, the French and In(ians made an unsuccessful attempt to capture the town; but the next year the Indians were more successful. They took the forts erected for the defence of the settlement, massacred the garrison and carried one hundred of the inhabitants into captivity. The settlement was resumed the next year. On the 19th of November, 1775, Falmnouth was bombarded and destroyed by a British fleet.

Ten newspapers and other journals are published ii Portland. BANGOR, The second city in the State, is situated in Penobscot county, on the right bank of the Penobscot River, 60 muiles from the sea, and 126 miles northeast of Portland, with which it is connected by railroad and steamer.

The city is located at the mouth of the Kenduskeag River, a branch of the Penobscot, and is built on both banks of the former stream, the two divisions of the city being connected by several l)ridges, each about 570
feet long. A fine bridge crosses the Penob 184

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MAINE. scot a short distance above the city, and unites Bangor with Brew-er. This bridge Inarks the upper line of the harbor, which is about 150()0 feet wide, with a depth of water sufficient for the largest vessels. Bangor is the principal lumber port in the Union. Immense quantities of lumber are brought down the Penobscot, and shipped from this place by sea. During the season of navigation, vlwhich continues for about 8 months, over 2000 vessels leave this port laden with lumber. The city is also extensively engaged in the coast trade, iii foreign commerce, and in shipbuilding. Bangor is located upon high ground, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country. It is well built, and contains several fine structures, the principal of which is the Custom House. It contains 12 or 13 banks, 11 churches, 4 of lwhichl are aniongi the handsomnest in the State; a theological seminary, and a tnulh)er of flourishing, schools.

Two daily and 4 weekly newspapers are published in the city. The wvater-power is derived from a fall in the Iienduskeag, half a mile above its mouth, and is excellent. Several large factories, inclutding founderies, machine shlops, filrniture miannfactories, and saw mills, are established here. Thlere is railroad communication to Old Town, on the Penobscot, and this road will soon be extended to Calais, on the border of New Brunswick. The population is 20,500. MISCELLANY. ARNOLD’S MARCH TO

QUEBEC. lIon. J. T. Headley, in his biography of the RIev. Samuel Sp)ring, Chaplain of the expedition, thus describes this memorable march: At length provisions began to grow scarce, and every one had to be put on short allowance. Mr. Spring took his three-quarters of a pound of pork per day cheerfully with the rest. After incredible hardships, and the loss of 150
men, by sickness find desertion, the army at last reached the great carrying place, 15 miles long, extending from the Kennebec. to the Dead River. Only 3 small ponds occurred the whole distance, on which the boats could be launched. The rest of the way they and the provisions, ammunitions, etc., had to be carried on meii’s shoulders. This was a terrific strain on the army, and the dispiriting effect upon the soldiers was not relieved by the appearance of the Dead River, when they reached it, for it moved sltuggishl and dark like the waters of oblivion through the silent and motionless forest. Day after day they toiled up this sluggish streamn., between the monoiotonous walls of forest that lined its banks, until it seemed as if there was no outlet or opening to the apparently interminable wilderness. At every bend, the eye strained forward to catch some indication of change, and when at last they came 1

85

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. in sight of a snow-covered mountain in the distance, telliing them there was an outer world after all, the men sent up a shout that woke the echoes far and wide. Near its base they encamped 3 days, and Spring spent most of the time in visiting the sick, and praying with them.

The army had scarcely got under way again, when the heavens became overcast; dark and angry clouds swept the heavens, and the heavy winds sobbed and moaned through the forest. Soon the rain came down in torrents.

Side by side with the drenched soldier the tall chaplain trudged uncomplainingly on, and lay down like him on,thle wet ground at night. It poured without cessation for 3 days, shledding still deeper gloom over the army. The river rose steadily the whole time, till the sluggish current at length swept down with such velocity and power that the boats could with difficulty stem it. On the third night, just as the soldiers had lain down to rest, after having kindled a huge fire, Mr. Spring heard a roar in the forest above them like the sound of the surf beating upon the shore, and the next moment the glan cing waters were seen sweeping through the trees on both sides of the stream. In an instant the camp was alive with shouts and cries rising above the turbulent flood that deluged the ground on which they stood. The fires were extinguished, and in the tumult, and confusion, and darkness, no one knew which way to flee for safety, or what to do. In this state of uncertainty and dread the night wore away. The daylight revealed to them a spectacle sad enough to fill the bravest heart withl discouragement. Boats had drifted into the forest, and as far as the eye could reach the level ground was one broad lake, out of which arose the dark stems of the trees like an endless succession of columns. In nine hours the water rose 8 feet, totally obliterating the shores of Dead River. But the provisions were getting lower and lower, and Arnold could not wait for the river to subside. Thie army was, therefore, pushed on, slowly stemming the flood; but seven boats, carrying provisions, were caught in the whirling, angry waters, and upset, and all their contents destroyed. The boldest npw paused in dismay, for only 12 days’ provisions remained, while 30 miles across the mountain were to be traversed before they coul(l reach the head waters of the Chaudiere, that flowed into the St. Lawrence. A council of war was called to decide what should be done in this crisis of affairs. They had now been a month away from civilization, the sick were increasing, while famine was staring them in the face. It was determined at length to leave the sick there, and despatch orders to Colonels Green and IKnox, in the rear, to hasten up, and take them back to Cambridge. Here was an opportunity for the young chaplain to abandon the expedition, and yet apparently be in the path of duty. He had had enough, one would think, of toil, exposure, and suffering, not to wish to face still greater hardships, and perhaps death itself, by famine in the wilderness, le following its fortunes. But he believed the welfare of his country was deeply involved in its fate, and he determined, come what would, to share its vicissitudes, hazards, and destiny. Having, therefore, prayed with the sick, encouraged the desponding with the promise that relief would soon come, and pointed those whom he believed dying to the Saviour of men, and commended all to the care and mercy of God, he bade them farewell, and moved forward with the advancing column. The cold, autumnal rains had now turned into snow, which, sifting down through the leafless tree-tops, covered the weary, wan, and straggling column with a winding sheet, that seemed to be wrapping it for the tomb. After they left the sick in the wilderness, they passed 17 falls before they reached the head IS 6

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MAINE. waters of Dead River. It was still 4 miles across to the Chaudiere, down which they were to float to the St. Lawrence. Here, on the summit of the hills on which the waters divide, one part flowing south and the other north, Arnold distributed the last provisions to the separato companies, and, taking only 13 men, pushed on for the Chaudiere. He told those left behind, in parting, that he would obtain provisions for them in advance, if human efforts could procure them; but directed them to follow after as fast as they could, for, he added, their only safety lay in advancing.

Spring remained behind with the army, to share its privations and its fate, whatever that might be. The gallant fellows gave their indomitable leader three parting chleers, and then began to heave their heavy boats from the water. Hoisting them upon their shoulders, while others were loaded down with baggage and ammnunition, and others still dragged the few pieces of artillery along like cattle, they staggered on through the forest. The scanty provisions that were left them, though eked out with the greatest parsimony, grew rapidly less, and finally failed entirely.

Under the low rations and severe labor combined, the men had gradually grown weaker and weaker, and now, pale and emaciated, looked on each other in mute inquiry. A council of war was called, and it was determined to kill the dogs they had with them, and push on till this loathsome supply was exhausted These faithful animals, hitherto the companions of their toils, were slain and divided among the different companies. After the bodies were devoured, their legs and even claws were boiled for soup. It was a sad sight to see the groups of half-famished soldiers seated togethler around a fire, watching with eager looks the pot containing this refuse of the dogs, and gazing with strange meaning into each other’s eyes. The chaplain fared like the rest, and famine and incessant toil and exposure were telling on himn as well as on the soldiers. The tall frame grew less erect, and the wan face showed that starvation was eating away his life. Trusting, however, in God, whom he served, he endured all cheerfully, and bore that famished multitude on ihis heart to the throne of heavenly grace. The soldiers, in all their sufferings, thought of him with the deepest sympathy, and could not but feel encouraged when they saw his serene, though emaciated countenance, and listened to his expressions of calm confidence in God, that hle would yet deliver them. He often walked through the woods to look at the various groups, and see where he could be of most service. His heart bled at the destitution lie witnessed on every side. One day he came upon a company gathered around a fire, boiling some dogs’ claws they had preserved to make soup with. As he paused to look at them, they rose, and, in true kindness of heart, urged him to share their meagre, disgusting broth. It was a novel, but touching evidence of the deep affection they bore their young chaplain, and told, in language stronger than words, what an example of patient endurance hle had shown, and how kind and faithful had been his labors among them. At last the dogs gave out, and then the soldiers tore off their moose-skin moccasins, and boiled them to extract a little nourishment. The feet could stand the November frosts better than their stomachs endure the gnawings of famine. They reached at length the banks of the Cliaudiere, and launched their boats. The current, however, was swollen and rapid-now boiling amid the rocks, and now shooting like an arrow around a jutting precipice. On such a turbulent flood the boats soon became unmanageable and one after another was stranded or shivered into fragments, till nearly all were destroyed. I 8

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. They were still 30 miles from the French settlements, and now were compelled to shoulder their b)urdens, and advance on foot, in straggling parties, thlrou,lgh the forest. During all these perils and sufferings, scarce a Sabbath passed in which Spring did not mount his pulpit of knapsacks, and preach to the troops, while every mornling,, before the marchl began, his earnest prayer arose to God for help. Tile last miserable substitute for food was at length exhausted, and with empty stomachs and bowed forms they slowly, despairingly toiled onward while all along their track the snow was stained with blood. As they were now approaclh ing the French settlements, severe discipline was enforced. They needed no fires to cook their food, for they had none to cook; but none was allowed them to warmi themselves by, and strict orders were given not to discharge a gun for any purpose. While the weary column was thus staggering silently on, suddenly the report of a musket was heard far in advance, then anotheri, and anothler, till twenty echoed through the forest. They ceased, and then a long shout rolled back thlroughl the solitude, producing the wildest excitement. Mr. Spring never forgot that thrilling scene, and long after, in spealking of it, said The army was starving, but moving on. The pioneers, who were ahead to clear the way, roused suddenly a noble mloose. It was the first that had been seen. The temptation was too strong to be resisted. One man fired-lie missed. Twenty guns were levellcd at him. Hle fell-they forgot all discipline in their extremity, and shlouted(l. It was a noble moose, weighing not less than 1000 pounds. A halt was ordered-camp kettles taken out, fires kizndled, eat, blood, entrails, hoofs (ad 7ioiis choppked up, and soul) gade of all for thte army.” Revived by this unexpected supply, the troops pushed on.

The next day they met a company of men with provisions, sent back by Arnold to relieve them. A loud shout arose from the whole army, and a general feast was ordered. Several of the soldiers, unable to restrain their appetites, eat so voraciously that they sickened and died. They had braved the wilderness, and withstood the ravages of famine, to fall victims to unrestrained indulgence. It was with profound sadness the young chaplain performed the last religious rites over their rude graves in the northern wilderness. iss

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A~ NEW HAMPSHIRE. Area…………..9,280 Square Miles. Population ill 1860……… 326,073 Population in 1870,………318,300 THE State of New Hampshire is bounded on the north by Canada East, on the east by Mlaine and the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by Alassachusetts, and on the west by the( Connecticut River and Vermiont. It is 90 miles broad at its southern, and 45 miles broad at its northern extremity, and 185 miles long fromn north to south. It fornis a species of irregular triangle, and is situated between latitude 42~ 40’ and 45~ 25’ T., and between longitude 70~ 40’ and 72~ 35’ M. TOPOGRAPHY. The surface of the State is broken and mountainous.

The country rises rapidly as it recedes from the coast until its greatest height is attaiied in Mount Washington, one of the White Mountains, in Coos county. The White Mountains proper are only about 20 mniles long, and lie almost entirely in Coos county, but broken and detached groups lie all over the State from the northern boundary down to and across the Massachusetts border. The only level land, exclusive of the mountain valleys, extends along the coast, and for about 30 miles into the interior. The principal Peaks in New HTampshlire which are distinct from the White Mountains, are as follows: the Blue Hills, 1151 feet above the ocean, situated in the southeast part of the State; Mount Chlocura, in Carroll county, 3358 feet high; Carr’s Mountain, in Grafton county, 1381
feet high; Mount Kearsarge, in Hillsborough county, 3067 feet; Mount Monadnoek, in Chlesnhire county, 3718 feet; Mount Andover, in IIerrimack count)y, 2000 feet; and M\oosehlillock, in Grafton county, 463)6 feet. 189

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. T’he TVhite TIott)t(i~8 lie ill the southern part Or Coos county, in the northeastern part of the State. The principal peaks of this range are Mount Washington, 6226 feet; Mount Jefferson, 5657 feet; M-ount clAdamns, 5759 feet; Mount Madison, 5415; Mount, Monroe, 5349; Mount Franklin, 4850 feet; and Mount Pleasant, 4712 feet. The prominent features of this region, which is styled, on account of its bI)eauty, “The Switzerland of America” are thus sketched by a recent writer: “The llWhite Mountains, already referred to, attract more tourists than any other natural object in the United States, excepting only Niangara Falls. The traveller may journey for weeks through its wild scenery, with a constant succession of grand objects to interest his mind. The fashionable route is to enter ~New HElampsh-ire by the Boston and Montreal Railways to Wier’s, on Lake Winniipiseogee; then take the steamboat, and, having made the circuit of the lake, enter the stage for Conway, on the east side of the White Mountains, and from thlence, by another stage, through the celebrated Notch, to the Notch House, which stands in the very jaws of the pass. The return is by the Franconia Notch (about 26 miles soutlhwest of the White MAountain Notch), and south down the valley of the Pemigewasset, to Plymouth, or back to Lake Winnipiseogee, according as the tourist wvishes to direct his steps thereafter. The White Mountain Notch is a pass of great celebrity. Coming from the north or west, you enter it by an opening only 23 feet in width, between two perpendicular rocks, one 20, and the other 12 feet high. The infant Saco trickles its way thlrough this nar owv opening, gradually expanding as it proceeds down the pass, and receiving other tributaries from the mountain-sides, which form the walls of the gorge, and which tow-er to the height of about 2000 feet above the bed of tlhe Saco. In this pass occurred, in 1826, the landslide which destroyed the Willey family. The more wild and abrupt parts of the Notch extend for 2 or 3 nmiles from its entrance at the NTotch House. Mount Washington is ascended on horseback from the iNotch House, by a bridle-path, first climbing Mount Clinton-iin immediate proximity to the hotelfor 221 miles, and then coasting the east side of the peaks of Mount Pleasant, Mount Franklin, and Mount Monroe, for 4 miles further, occasionally ascendinig a rough, steep ridge, and again descending, now riding on the verge of a vast ravine of several hundred feet in depth, and now on the crest of a ridge comimanding a view of both sides of the chain we arrive at the foot of Mount Washington, 1500 190

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NEW HAMPSHIRE. SCENE IN THIE WHlITE 3iOUNTAINS. feet in I)eIpeTnlicttcar, and about one mile in inclined( ascent, above the base of the cone or peak, and 6226 feet above the sea. This is the most difficult, tlhough scarcely dangerous, part of the ascent, as it is little else tl-hanl riding on horseback over a pile of rocks of every variety of size cast together as if hurled there by the Titans, in war or at play. From the summit, if the day be clear, is afforded a view unequalled, perhaps, on the eastern side of the ~Northl American continent. Around you, in every direction, are confused masses of mlountains, bearing the appearance of a sea of molten lava suddenly cooled, whilst its ponderous waves were yet in commotion. On the southeast horizon gleamns a rim of silver light-it is the Atlantic Ocean, 65 iniles distant-laving the shores of Maine. Lakes-of all sizes, fromn Lakle AVinnipiseogee to mere mountain ponds-and’mountains beneatlh you gleam misty and wi(le.’ Far off to the northeast is lMount J-atahldin. In the western horizon are the Green Mountains of Vermont, and to the south and southwest are MAount Monadnock and IKearsarge, or Kiarsage, while the space between is filled up with !91.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. every variety of landscape, mountain, and hill, plain and valley, lalke and river. “Those to whom it is an object to reach Mount Washington witlh as little stage-riding as possible, may be landedl at Gorliam by the Portland and Montreal Railway cars, within 5 miles of the base of the mountain. The Franeonia XNotch is deemed by many quite as interesting as the AV-iite Mountain Notchl. Near it are many agreeable accessories not to be found in the latter; among which are Echo Lake, just at the northern entrance of the gorge, and the’Old Man of the MAlountain,’

a wvell-defined profile of a human face, 1000 feet above the level of the pass. The Basin, 4 miles south of the Notch, is a pool of beautifully transparent water. One mile below this, again, in the vicinity of the Flume House, is the celebrated Flume, a narrow gorge or opening in the rocks, only a few feet in width, and from 70 to 120 feet in height, through which flows a small tributary of the Pemnigewasset; below this is a cascade of 616 feet in length, whichl iii the spring and fall freshets is an object of great interest. In the same neighborhood is the Pool (a basin formed by a small fall in the Pemrnigewasset), whlich is about 60
feet in diameter, and 40 feet deep, surrounded by mural precipices 150
feet in height. The Flume, the Basin, and the Pool, all within an agreeable walkling distance of the Flume House, make this one of the most agreeable stopping-places among the mountains. Mount Lafayette-only 700
feet inferior in altitude to Mount Washingtonis also ascended from thie same house, wliche has the further advantage of being within a five-miles ride of the Franconia Notch. The other detached mountains scattered over New Hampshire would, in any other State, not overshadowed by M[ount \Washington and his court, merit Conspicuous notice. Dixville Notch, about 46 miles north of Lancaster, is said to be but little inferior to the two great passes already described. New Hampshire shares with Vermont the beautiful river Connecticut, whose shores are often grand, and seldom tame. Bellows Falls, in this river, on the southwest border of the State, are formed by the contraction of the river bed to about 20 feet on the west side at low water, through which the stream rushes with great violence. At high water, it flows in the eastern as well as western channel. These bed(ls are separated by a huge rockl. The entire descent in half a mile is 42 feet. At Amioskeag, the Merrimac descends 50 feet in three successive piteles. In the AWhite Mountain Notch is a cascade which winds down the face of the mountain, through a fall of 800 feet, giving, after copious 192

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NEW HAMPSHIIRE. rains, an additional interest to the scene, as it glides or leaps over the different stages of its descent. There are two interesting falls in the Ammonoosuck, within a pleasant drive from the Notch House.”* Lake TIiiiniliseoyee is the principal inland sheet of water. It is irregular in shape, its shores being deeply indented with a number of bays. It is 25 miles long, and varies ill width from 1 to 10
miles. It is very deep, and the water, pure and clear as crystal, is alive with fine trout. It is tii’elkly studded with islands, and abounds in the miost picturesque scenery. Steamers ply between Alton Bay and Centre Harbor, stopping at the various points along the lake. Large numbers of visitors come here every sunmmer. The Comiiecticut River, the largest and most beautiful in New Englanld, rises in the extreme northern part of this State, in the hills lying along the border of Canada. Flowing across the State, it turns to the southwest at the northern line of Vermont, and pursuing a generally southwest course, forms the boundary between Vermont and New Hampshlire, and passes into Massachusetts. The scenery along the river is very beautiful, and has made the “Connecticut Valley” faious throughout the country. Above the Massachusetts line it is chiefly mountainous. The JIlerrimae Pticer is the next in importance, and lies almost entirely within the State. It is formed by the junction of the Pemigewasset and Winnipiseogee rivers, in Belknap county. Flowing’to the southward, it enters Massachusetts about 80 miles from its source. Then turning abruptly to the northeast, it flows into the Atlantic near Newburyport. It is about 110 miles long, and flows through a valley noted for its beauty. Haverhill, in Mlassachlusetts, 15 miles from the sea, is the head of ship navigation, but canals have been cut around the falls, whilch enable boats to ascend to Concord, New Hamlpshire. The river turns by its excellent waterpower more mills and factories than any other in the Union. The Salmonfi Falls, Piscataqua, Contoocook, Souhegan, and Nashua are the other prominent streams. 17ie Isle of Shoalts is the name given to a group of 8 islands, 3 of which belong to New Hampshire, and the rest to Maine. They lie of the coast, 11 miles from Portsnmouth. A steamer plies daily between that city and the principal island. “The voyage is but an hour in length, and the scenery, as the boat passes down the river *

Lippincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1306. 13 193

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. through the Narrows, stemming bravely the rushing tide, or borne surfing upon it, is most delightful. Sliding by Fort Constitution and the Whale’s Back Light House, the steamer is soon upon the wi(lde Atlantic. Directly in front is the dim outline of the islands, while behind stretches the white line of the coast. In the distance rise the hills of New Hampshire and the blue sides of Agamnenticus, the high mountain of York. As the boat approaches the Appledore Island, the hotel unfolds its size and proportions. Landing by row-boats, the traveller ascends, by an easy path, to the portico, where an expectant crowd is assembled. “The’Appledore’ is conducted by Oscar and Cedric Laighton, whose father is well remembered as the former proprietor. His grave is now one of the interesting and noteworthy spots upon the roclky island. Here also are buried the unfortunate crew of a Spanish vessel driven upon the cliffs on a winter’s night. This incident has been made the subject of an effective poem by Longfellow. “The steamboat reaches the’Appledore’ at 1
o’clock each day, and starts upon its homeward trip at 3 P. m. Visitors to the other islands of the group are carried across in small boats. The distance is short to Gosport, where is a small village of some 30 houses, a church, and a schoolhouse. Tlle population are hardy fishermen, among whlo.n can still be traced the Portuguese features of the original colonizers from the fleet of John Smith, by whom these islands were discovered. A disaster fell upon them a year ago, in the shape of fire.

Half their little settlement was consumed in a single night; and this calamity, to so hard(-working a people, excited much sympathy throughout New England. Assistance was given them, and they are now recovering from their losses. ” Near by is White Island, where a revolving light casts a crimson glow over a sea which sleeps through the summer months, but which rises in the winter storms with mighty strength. The other islands are known by the euphonious names of Smlutty-zNose and Hog. They are visited only by sportsmen, and are a refuge for innumerable seafowl.” MINERALS.

Iron is found in several counties, principally at Franconia, Piermont, and Bartlett. Bog-ore deposits are thlickly scattered over the State. Copper, lead, zinc and plumnbago are also found in several localities, and silver has been discovered near Pittsfield. Granite of 194

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NEW HAMPSHIRE. a fine quality abounds. Gneiss, crystallized-quartz, talc, steatite, tourmalins, ochres, limestone, spars of various kinds, terra sienna, sulphur, magnesia, beryls, garnets, jasper, manganese, asbestus, and amethysts are found. CLIMATE. The climate of New Hampshire is severe, but uniform. Franconia is said to be the coldest place in the Union; the thermometer sometimes indicating 40 degrees below zero. The summers are short, but pleasant. The cold weather begins in October, and snow falls in November and lasts until May, in the northern part of the State, and until April in the southern. In the mountains it frequently lies on the ground until July. The springs are damp and are rendered disagreeable by heavy fogs. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil is not naturally fertile, but has been made so by patient and laborious tillage. The northern part is but little cultivated, and the best lands are in the valleys of the rivers, which occasionally enrich them by overflo\vs. Sheep and cattle raising form a prominent part of the industry of the State, the high lands and mountain sides aflbrding good pasturage. In 1869, there were 2,367,034
acres of improved land in New Hampshire, and 1,377,591 acres unimproved.

The remainder of agricultural wealth of the State for the same year may be stated as followNs: Cash value of farms,………….. $69,869,761 Value of farming implements and machilnery,. $2,682,412 Number of horses,……………..45,101 asses and mules……. 40 milch cows,……….99,540 ” other cattle…………. 2q)3,800
sheep………… 620,890 swine, 79,680 Value of domestic animals………$12,924,629 Bushels of wheat,……….. 291,000 ‘
rye,…………… 150,000 ” Indian corn……….1,400,000
oats……………..1,663,000 ” peas and beans………… 89,454 ” Irish potatoes,……… 4,500,000 barley,……………………….. 106,000
buckwheat……….90,400 195

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TIIE GlREAT IREPUBLIC. Bushels of clover seed (estimated),. ” 1 grass seed (estimated),. Pounds of wool (estimated),… ” butter,……. “
cheese,……. ” hops,……… ” maple sugar…… ” beeswax and honey,..

Tons of hay,……….. Value of orchard products,…. ” homemade manufactures, slaughtered animals,.. COMMERCE. New Hampshire has but one good harbor, that of Portsmouth; and but one river navigable, and that for but a short distance from the sea. This, of course, limits the amount of her foreign trade. During the year ending June 30th, 1861, the commerce of the State was as follows: value of exports, $6112; value of imports, $20,887. MANUFACTURES. The rivers of New Hamlpshire furnish an abundance of first class waterpower, and the people are largely engaged in manufactures. According to the census of 1860, there were 2582
establishments in the State engaged in manufactures, mining and the mnechlanic arts. They employed a capital of $25,900,000, and 36,100 hands; consumned raw material worth $24,400,000; and yielded products worth $45,500,000. Of these, 44 were cotton factories, employing a capital of $13,878,000, and 6300 male and 13,859 female hands, consuming $9,758,921
worth of raw material, paying $4,574,520 annually for labor, and yielding an annual product of $16,661,531; and 71 were woollen factories, employing a capital of $1,519,550, and 1003 male and 1003 female hands, paying annually $499,764 for’labor, consuming raw rhaterial worth $1,732,074, and yielding an annual product of $2,876,000. The other manufactures were as follows: value of leather produced, $1,933,949; rolled iron, $7000; steam engines and machinery, $898,560; agricultural implements, $134,935; sawed and planed lumber, $1,230,000; flour, $1,490,000; liquors, $86,000.

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, there were 659 miles of railroad within the limits of the State. These, in many instances, merely crossed it, terminating at 196 13,000 6,500 2,000,000 6,956,764 2,323,092 150,000

2,25,5,012 130,078 700,000 $.50-7,934 $251,013 $3,787,500

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NEW HAMIPSHIRE. either Boston or Portland. Others had one terminus ill New Hampshlire, and another in some other State, and a few short routes lay wholly within the State. The railroads have almost entirely supplanted the canals built for the improvemnent of the Merrimac River. The total cost of these roads was $22,053,000. EDUCATION. In the year 1868, there were 2487
public schools in New Haimpshlire, attended by 77,138 pupils; the average attendance for the year being -)52,476. These schools were conducted by 477 miale, and 2465 female teachers. Besides these, there are about 50
private academies in the State, and one college, which is located at Dartmouth. This institution was founded in 1769, and is in a flourishing condition. The educational svstem is maintained by sales of public lands, taxes upon the capital of the banks, and a poll tax upon the inhabitants.

It is controlled by a series of district committees, who are subordinate to the Board of Education of the State. The expenditures for schools, not including the private schools, for the year 1868, was $333,465. In 1860, there were 30(6 libraries in the State, containing 237,312 volumes. In the same year, upwards of 25 newspapers were published in this State. PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS. The I.sance Asyluem, at Concord, was incorporated in 1838.

It is provided with excellent and commodious buildings, and has a farm of 155 acres attached to it. The whole number of patients under treatment during the year 1870 was 367-190 males, 177 females. The Reform Scehool is located near Manchester, and is surrounded by a farm of 100 acres, which is worked by the boys of the school. Children of both sexes are received here, and are subjected to a miild but firm course of discipline for their reformation. The school was founded in 1856, and has been very successfill in its operations. During the year 1869-70, its inmates numbered 155-nmales 135, females 20. The State Prison is located at Concord. It is in a flourishing condition, and is conducted upon a system which aims to reform as well as punish. The Legislature of 1867 passed an Act, known as the ” Commutation law,” by which, says the Governor of the Commonwealth, “every month of exemplary conduct on the part of a prisoner gains him a certain amount of time to be deducted from the term of 197

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. his sentence….. Every convict who avails himself of the benefits of this provision is released in advance of the expiration of his orig,inal tern of imprisonment, and thus retains the rights of citizenship.” During the year 1(S70, the -whlole inumber of prisoners confined here w-as 1 1 8. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property was $1,913,692. The number of churches was 681. FINANCES.

The finances of the State are in a prosperous condition. In 1870, the total public debt was $2,817,869. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending June 30thl, 1870, including cash on hand, were $1,123,028, and the disbursements $1,086,350, leaving a balance of $36,678
in the Treasury on the 1st of July, 1870. There are but few State banks left, nearly all of the old institutions having embraced the National Bank system. In May, 1868, there were a few remaining with an aggregate capital of $237,300, and these were preparing to reorganize under the new system.

At the same time, there were 40 National Banks, with an aggregate capital of $4,785,000, besides a number of Savings institutions. GOVERNMENT.

Every adult male inhabitant of the State, over twentyone years of age, excepting paupers and persons not paying taxes, is entitled to vote in the place of his residence. The Government consists of a Governor assisted by a Council of five members, and a Legislature, divided into a Senate and House of Representatives, all chosen annually by the people on the second Tuesday of March. The Secretary of State and Treasurer are chosen on joint ballot by the Legislature at the beginning of every session of that body.

The two houses of the Legislature are together styled “The General Court of New Hampshire.” There is a Supreme Judicial Co?t,it the highest State tribunal, compI)rised of a Chief Justice, and five Associate Justices.

They are appointed by the Governor and Council, and hold office during good behavior. The State is divided, for convenience, into four Judicial Districts. There is also a Superior Court for each coii-ty, and a local tribunal for each city. 193

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NENW HAMPStIIRE. For purposes of government, the State is divided into ten counties. The seat of Government is located at Col:(ord. HISTORY. LNew HIampshire was first settled by the English, at Dover and Portsmouthl, in 1623. It was originally a part of Massachusetts, but,, was organized as a separate province, with its present name, by a royal charter, in 1679. In 1689 it was annexed to Massachusetts, and was afterwards transferred to New York. It was erected into an independent province in 1741, however, and has since maintained a distinct existence. It was considerably annoyed in its early years by the Indians, who, in 1689, made a descent upon Dover, burned a part of the town, and killed a number of the inhabitants.

In 1776, the State declared its separate independence of Great Britain.

During the Revolution, it made liberal contributions of mien and money to the cause. Its troops won especial credit at Stillwater, Saratoga, Molnmouth, and Bennington. It adopted the Constitution of the United States on the 21st of June, 1788. During the late war, it contributed 33.’,427 men to the army of the’United States. Of these, 5518 fell in battle, and 11,039 were disabled by wounds and sickness. CITIES AND TOWNS.

The principal cities and towns of New Hampshire are Concord, the capital of the State, Manchester, NashuLa, Portsmouth, Dover, Somersworth, Keene, Claremont, Rochester, Exeter, Gilford, Sanbornton, and Great Falls.

CONCORD, The capital of the State, is situated on the banks of the Merrimac River, 20 miles above Manchester, and 59 miles northwest from Boston. It extends along the river for about 2 miles, and has an average width of about half a mile. Main street, the principal thoroughfare, is 2
miles long, and 150 feet wide. It contains the hotels and nearly all the prominent buildings. The city is handsomely built; the streets are broad, and well shaded; and the entire place wears an air of comfort and refinement characteristic of -New England towns. The principal building is the State House, construceted of a fine quality of native granite, and surrounded by a beautiful park. Concord is the seat of extensive manufactures, the falls of the Mer 19

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TlIE G”EiAT 1EPUl’ITJLIC. CONCORD STATE IIOUSE. rimac furnishing excellent waterpower. It contains 9 churches, several banks, and a number of fine private buildings. The State Lunatic Asylunil is also located here.

Railroads connect it with Boston and all parts of the Union, and with Canada. The population is 12,241. Four newspapers are published here.

MANCHESTER, The largest city in tile State, is situated in Hillsborough county, on the banlks of the AIerrimac River, 18 miles from Concord, and 59 miles from Boston. It is built along the river, on an elevated plateau, about 90 feet above the water. Several railroads centre here, and afford rapid and direct communication with all parts of the country. The city is well laid out, having broad streets, intersecting each othler at right angles, and several handsome public squares. Tile eastern section is built almost entirely of brick, but the western part is built of wood. It contains several fine buildings, the principal of which is the new town house, or city hall. The more elevated portion of the I)lace is occupied by residences and churches, and the slo,)e between 200

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NEW HAMPSHIRPE. the plateau and the river is devoted to the miills and the dwellings of the operatives. The city contains a good public library, about 12 churches, about 24 public schools, besi(des several private establishments, 3 or 4 banks, and 7 newspaper offices. Manchester owes its importance to its extensive manufactures. Cotton, woollen, and other factories are numerous, the motive power being derived from a series of rapids in the Merrimac, called the Amoskeag Falls. The river here makes a descent of 54 feet in a mile, and dams and locks have been constructed at the head of the rapids, by which the water is conveyed to all the miills in the city. Cotton and woollen goods, wrought iron goods of various kinds, locomotives, railroad cars, and steam fire-engines constitute the principal manufactures, and give employment to between six and seven thousand hands. The population is 23,536. PORTSMOUTH, In Rockingham county, is the second city, and only seaport in the State. It is situated on the right bank of the Piscataqua River, 3 miles from the sea, and 54
miles northeast of Boston. Several railroads terminate here, and others pass through it, leading to all parts of the Union and Canada. The city is built upon a peninsula near the mouth of the river, and upon rising ground, which affords a fine view of the harbor. It is well laid off, and possesses a number of handsome buildings. It contains a public library of over 10,000 volumes, and several excellent literary institutions. It is extensively engaged in manufactures, is supplied with water, and is lighted with gas. It is the seat of an active foreign and coasting trade, which, though not so large as formerly, is still important. The fisheries are a source of considerable profit to it, as they lie but a short distance from it. The harbor of Portsmouth is one of the best in the world. It is completely land-locked, is never frozen, and is accessible to the largest ships. Its tides are high and rapid, and the bottom is a smooth bed of rock. The channel at low water is 40 feet in depth. It is defended by Fort Constitution, on Great Island; Fort McClary, opposite; Fort Sullivan, on Trepethen Island; and Fort Washington, on Pierce’s Island. It is estimated that the harbor is sufficiently capacions to admit with ease as many as 2000 vessels. The city is connected by bridges with Newcastle, on Grand Island, and with Kittery, in MIaine, on the opposite si(le of tiie Pis?ataqtia. 201

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The United States Navy Yard at Kittery, commonly known as the Portsmouth Navy Yard, is one of the principal establishments of the Government, and the greatest attraction of the place. It is provided with a splendid dry dock, constructed at a cost of $800,000, with three large ship-houses, and all the appliances necessary to the construction of the largest vessels of war. Portsmouth was made a naval station during the Revolution, and the first ship of the line (the North America) ever constructed in the New World was laid down here during that struggle. The Kearsarge, which sunk the Alabama during the civil war, was built here.

Portsmouth contains numerous public schools, and supports 4 newspapers, 2
of which are daily. The New K-lmpshire Gazette, published here, was established in 1756, and claims to be the oldest American journal now in existence. The population is 11,000. DOVER, In Strafford county, is the oldest city in the State. It is situated at the lower falls of the Cocheco River, and on both sides of that stream. It is at the head of sloop navigation, and is connected with all parts of the country by railroad. It is 12 miles northwest of Portsmouth, and 68 miles north of Boston. It is well built, and regularly laid off. It contains several handsome buildings, the principal of which is the city hall, several banks, a number of excellent public schools, 10 churches, and 2 good hotels. The falls of the Cocheco are 32 feet high, and furnish an abundance of excellent waterpower. The capital invested in manufactures amounts to several millions of dollars. Cotton and woollen goods, boots and shoes, and iron ware are the principal articles produced. Shipbuilding was formerly an important interest. The city is lighted with gas, and contains a popuiation of over 10,000. Dover was settled by a company from Ellgland, il 1623, and its early years were marked by constant trouble with the savages. In 1688, it was almost entirely destroyed by them. Belknap, in his History of New Hampshire,” gives the following account of this tragedy: In that part of the town of Dover which lies about the first falls in the rivei Cocheco, were five garrisoned houses; three on the north side, viz., Waldron’s, Otis’s and Heard’s; and two on the south side, viz., Peter Cofin’s and his son’s. These houses were surrounded by timber walls, the gates of which, as well as the house doors, were secured with bolts and bars. The neighboring families retired 202

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NEW HIAMPSHIIRE. to these houses by night; but, by an unaccountable negligence, no watch was kept. The Indians who were daily passing through the town, visiting and trading with the inhabitants, as usual in time of peace, viewed their situation with an attentive eye. Some hints of a mischievous design had been given out by their squaws; but in such dark and ambiguous terms that no one could comprehlend their meaning. Some of the people were uneasy; but Waldron, who, from a long course of experience, was intimately acquainted with the Indians, and on other occasions had been ready enough to suspect them, was now so thoroughly secure that, when some of the people hinted their fears to him, he merrily bade them go and plant their pumpkins, saying that he would tell them when the Indians would break out. The very evening before the mischief was done, being told by a young man that the town was full of Indians and the people were much concerned, he answered that he knew the Indians very well and there was no danger. The plan which the Indians had preconcerted was, that two squaws should go to each of the garrisoned houses in the evening, and ask leave to lodge by the fire; that in the night, when the people were asleep, they should open the doors and gates, and give the signal by a whistle; upon which the strange Indians, who were to be within hearing, should rush in, and take their long-mlleditated revenge. This plani being ripe for execution, on the evening of Thursday, the 27th of June, two squaws applied to each of the garrisons for lodging, as they frequently did in time of peace. They were admitted into all but the younger Coffin’s, and the people, at their request, showed them how to open the doors, in case they should have occasion to go out in the night.

Mesandowit, one of their chiefs, went to Waldron’s garrison, and was kindly entertained, as lie had often been before. The squaws told the major that a number of Indians were coming to trade with him the next day, and IFesandowit while at suipper, with his usual familiarity, said: “B3rother Waldron, what would you do if the strange Indians should come?”

The major carelessly answered, that hlie could assemble 100 men by lifting up his finger. In this unsuspecting confidence the family retired to rest.

When all was quiet, the gates were opened and the signal given. The Indians entered, set a guard at the door, and rushed into the major’s apartment, whlich was an inner room. Awakened by the noise, lie jumped out of bed, and though now advanced in life to the age of 80 years, hle retained so much vigor as to drive them with his sword through two or three doors; but, as lhe was returning for his other arms, they came behind him, stunned him with a hlatchet, drew him into his hall, and, seating him in an elbow chair on a long table, insulting]y asked him, “

Who shall judge Indians now? ” They then obliged the people in the house to get them some victuals; and when they had done eating, they cut the major across the breast and belly with knives, each one with a stroke, saying. “I cross out my account.” They then cut off his nose and ears, forcing them into his mouth; and when speoit with the loss of blood, he was falling down from the tabie, one of them held his own sword under him, which put an end to his misery. They also killed his son-in-law, Abraham Lee; but took his daughter Lee with several others, and having pillaged the house, left it on fire. Otis’s garrison, which was next to the major’s, met with the same fate; he was killed, with several others, and his wife and child were captivated. Heard’s was saved by the barking of a dog just as the Indians were entering: Elder Wentworth, wllo was awakened by the noise, pushed them out, and falling on his back set 203

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. his feet against the gate and held it till hlie had alarmed the people; two balls were fired through it, but both missed him.

Coffiu’s house was surprised, but as the Indians had no particular enmity to him, they spared his life, and the lives of his family, and contented themselves with pillaging the house. Finding a bag of money, they made him throw it by handfuls on the floor, while tlh:y amused themselves in scrambling for it. They thenu went to the house of his son, who would not admit the squaws in the evening, and summoned him to surrender, promising him quarter. He declined their offer, and determined to defend his house, till they brought out his father and threatened to kill him before his eyes. Filial affection then overcame his resolution, and he surrendered.

They put both families together into a deserted house, intending to reserve them for prisoners; but while the Indians were busy in plundering, they all escaped. Twenty-three people were killed in this suprisal, and 29
were captivated; 5 or G houses, with the mills, were burned; and so expeditious were the Indianls in the execution of their plot, that before the people could be collected from the other parts of the town to oppose them, they fled with their prisoners and booty. As they passed by Heard’s garrison in their retreat, they fired upon it; but the people being prepared and resolved to defend it, and the enemy being in haste, it was preserved. The preservation of its owner was more remarkable. Elizabeth Heard, with her three sons and a daughter, and some others, were returning in the night from Portsmouth. They passed up the river in their boat unperceived by the Indians, who were then in possession of the houses; but suispecting danger by the noise whlich they heard, after they had landed, they betookl themselves to Waldron’s garrison, where they saw lights, which they imagined were set up for direction to those who might be seeking a refuge. They knocked and begged earnestly for admission; but no answer being given, a young man of the company climbed up the wall, and saw, to his inexpressible surprise, an Indian standing in the door of the house, with his gun. The woman was so overcome with the fright that she was unable to fly, but begged her children to shift for themselves; and they with heavy hearts left her. When she had a little recovered, she crawled into some bushes, and lay there till daylight. She then perceived an Indian coming toward her with a pistol in his hand; he looked at her and went away: returning, he looked at her again; and she asked him what he would have; he made no answer, but ran yelling to the house, and she saw him no more. She kept her place till the house was burned, and the Indians were gone; and then returning home, found her own house safe. Her preservation in these dangerous circumstances was more remarkable, if (as it is supposed) it was an instance of justice and gratitude in the Indians. For at the time when the four or five hundred were seized, in 1676, a young Indian escaped and took refuge in her house, where she concealed him; in return for which kindness he promised her that he would never kill her, nor any of her family, in any future war, and that he would use his influence with the other Indians to the same purpose. This Indian was one of the party who surprised the place, and she was well known to the most of them. 204

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VERMONT. Area,…………. 10,212 Square Miles. Population in 1860………315,098 Population in 1870………330,552 THE State of Vsrmont lies between latitude 42~ 44’ and 45~ N., and longitude 71 ~ 33’

and 73~ 25’ W., and is bounded on the north by Canada East, on the east l)y New Hampshire, on the south by Massachusetts, and on the west by Lake Champlain and the State of New York. It is 150 miles long from north to south, 85 miles wide from east to west in its northern part, and 35 miles wide from east to west at its southern boundary. TOPOGRAPHY. The surface of the State is greatly diversified by hill and valley. The Green Mountains extend in a direction almost from north to south,l, throughout its entire length, dividing it into two unequal portions. Just below Montpelier, the ccppital, this ridge divides into two p o r t i o n s, one of which, the higher, extends in a northern direction to the Canada line.

The other, although lower, is continuous, and follows the line of the Connecticut River, toughough at a considerable distance from it, to the northeast corner of the State. The eastern ridge is broken in several places by the passage of th e O nion, Lainoille, and Missisque rivers.

South of this division, the range is not broken by any stream. The Green Mountains are among th e most picturesque and beautiful in the Union, and offer many attractions to the tourist. The highest peaks are Mount Mansfield, 4360 feet above the sea, Camel’s Rump, 4188 feet, Killington’s, 3675 feet, and Ascutney Mountain, near the Connecticut River, 3320 feet.

The southern part of the range divides the tributaries of the Hudson from those of the Con 205

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. necticut. The mountains are covered with a thick growth of the evergreen fir, spruce, and hemlock, which give themn always a rich hue of dark green, from which their name is derived. Lake Champlain, the largest over which the State has any jurisdiction, lies between Vermont and New York, and belongs principally to the latter State; but, for convenience, will be described here. It extends from Whitehall, in New York, northward, a few miles beyonid the Canada line. It is 130
miles long, varies in width from half a mile to 10 miles, and is from 50
to 280 feet deep. A line, run from Vermont to New York across the principal island of the lake, would measure 15 miles. It receives the waters of Lakes George and Wood, and of the Saranac, Chazy, Au Sable, Missisquoi, and WMinooski rivers, and discharges itself through the Richelieu River into the St. Lawrence. On the New York side the shiores are rocky, mountainous and sterile; but the Vermont shore is very productive, and is highly cultivated. The scenery of the lake is wild and beautiful, the view ranging, in fair weather, as far back as the Green Mountains in Vermont, and the Adirondacks in New York. The waters are clear and abound in fish. Steamers ply daily between the upper and lower ends of the lake. By means of canals there is uninterrupted navigation, except during the season of ice, between Lake Champlain and the Atlantic, Lake Ontario, and the lludson River. The commerce of the lake is estimated at over $30,000,000 annually. About 200,000 tons of shipping and 12,000
men are employed in this trade. Navigation is usually closed between the last of November and the first of April. There are a number of islands in the lake, the principal of which are Grand Isle, South Hero, and North Hero, all belonging to Vermont. The principal towns belonging to Vermont are Swanton, Burlington, Charlotte, and Ferrisburg. Lake Champlain was discovered by Samuel Champlain, a French naval officer, in 1609. Important events occurred on its waters during tile Revolution, and in the war of 1812-15, a British army and fleet were routed at Plattsburg, on the New York shore. Lake Memphramagog, which lies almost entirely in Canada, indents a portion of northern Vermont. The other lakes are Dunmore, Austin, Bombazine, and Long Pond. The Connecticut River separates the State from New Hampshire. The other streams are the Otter Creek, Onion, Lamoille, and Missisque. They are insignificant in length, but furnish good waterpower. 206

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VERMONT. MINERALS. Iron is found in considerable quantities in the Green Mountains, and there are deposits of bog-ore in various parts of the State. A brownish coal is found in Brandon. Sulphuret of iron is found near Strafford, and is used in making copperas, of which large quantities are produced. Granite and marble, the latter of a most excellent quality, abound. Slate quarries are numerous, and manganese is found in considerable quantities near Rutland. The other minerals are titanium, oxide of manganese, lead, magnetic iron ore, plumbago, copper and zinc.

Traces of gold are very decided in the towns of Stowe and Bridgewater.

CLIM’ATE. Being sheltered from the breezes which sweep over the other New England States from the ice fields of the Atlantic, Vermont has an even temperature, which renders it one of the healthiest States in the Union.

The thermometer ranges from 17~ below zero to 92~ above. The winters begin about December, and continue until near the middle of April. They are severe, as well as long. The summers are brief, but pleasant. Frost begins to appear in September, snow about the last of November. SOIL AND

PRODUCTIONS. The valleys of Vermont are fertile, the lands along the river bottoms being excellent. The mountain slopes are used extensively for pasture, and large quantities of maple sugar are produced every year ill the uplands. In 1869, there were 2,823,157 acres of improved land in the State, and 1,337,682 of unimproved land. The remainder of the agricultural wealth of Vermont, at the present time, may be stated as follows: Cash value of farms,………… Value of farming implements a(i niiachinlery,.e Number of horses,…………. ” asses and mules,……..

” milch cows,……….. ” other cattle………. ” sheep,………..

swine,………. Value of domestic animals…….. 207 $91,511,673

$3,554,728 71,840 120 190,420 230,300 997,890 81,450 $19,241,989

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bushels of wheat,…. rye, ” Indian corn, oats,….

Irish potatoes, barley… ” buckwheat,. grass seed,. Pounds of wool,… “
butter,… “4 cheese,.. ” maple sugar (e ……

rye……………………..155,00 Indian~~~~~ cor……………1,s 500

” 4 beeswax and honey (estimated),.. Tons of hay (estimated),……..

Value of orchard products (estimated),.. ” 4 market garden products (estimated), ” 4 homemade manufactures, “. COTMMERCE. Being an inland State without navigable rivers, Vermont conducts its conmmnerce connected with navigation exclusively by way of Lake Champlain. During the year 1862, tile foreign exports amounted to $736,663, and the imports to $2,567,892. The entrances for the same year reached 22,012 tons, and the clearances to 23,281. Of this amount, 6067 tons were owned in the State.

MANUFACTURES. Vermont has the best waterpower of any New England State, but is not as extensively engaged in manufactures as the others, the principal pursuit of her people being agriculture. According to the census of 1860, there were 1501 establishments in Verrnont devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. These employed a capital of $9,500,000, and 10,800 hands, consumed raw material worth $8,110,000, and returned an annual product of $16,000,000. The cottonl manufactures were valued at $357,400; woollen manufactures at $1,820,769; leather manufactures at $2,550,000; pig iron at $92,910; rolled iron at $63,250; steam engines and machinery at $493,836; agricultural implements at $157,647; sawed and planed lumber at $1,060,000; flour at $1,660,000.

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. Vermont is crossed by several lines of railway, connecting the principal towns with the cities of New Hampshire, Massachusetts, New 208 766,000 155,000 1,475,000 5,050,000 5,750000

102,000 231,000 12,000 3,000,000 15,900,359 1 8,216,030 10,000,000 212,905

1,100,000 $198,427 $24,792 $63,295

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VERMONT. York, Connecticut, and Canada. In 1868, there were 594 miles of railway completed in the State. The cost of construction was $24,893,000.

Rutland is the great railroad centre. EDUCATION. The State makes a liberal provision for the education of the young. In 1870, there were 2750 public or district schools in operation, attenided by 72,950 p)upi]s, the average attendance being about 47,000. The number of teachers was 4239, and the amount spent for educational purposes was about $425,000. There are also three Normal schools in the State, one in each Congressional district, sulbject to the control of the State Board of Education. Two courses of study are taught in these schools. Those who graduate in the first course receive a certificate, which is, by a law of the State, a licence to teach anywhere in Vermont for five years. Graduates from the second course receive certificates licensing them to teach in the State for fifteen years. Besides the public schools, there were, in the year 1867, 348
private schools, attended by 9264 pupils, and 58 academies. The colleges are 3 in number, the University of Vermont, at Burlington, founded in 1791, Middlebury College, at Middlebury, founded in 1800, and Norwich University (partly military in its organizationii), founded in 1834. There were, in 1860, 31 newspapers published in the State, 2 daily, 28 weekly, and one monthly. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The public institutions of Vermont are the Insane Asylum, the Reform School, and the State Prison. The Iisatie Asylun is located at Brattleboro’. It is surrounded by a large farm, and has ample buildings, which were burned in 1862, but are now being replaced. It is under the supervision of the Commissioner of the Insane, who is appointed by the Legislature annually for the purpose of inspecting and reporting upon the affairs of the asylum. In 1867, there were 646 inmates of the asylum. The instititioni is in a large measure sustained li)y the lal)or of its inmates. The Reform School, established in 1865, is located at Vaterbury. It has a farm of 133 acres attached to it, and is provided with excellenit workshops. It is in a flourishing condition. In September, 1868, there were 57 inmates remaining. 14 209

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The State Prison was established in 1807, and is located at Windsor. It is governed by a Board consisting of a Superintendent and three Directors, chosen annually by the Legislature. It is almost self-supporting. The labor of the convicts is let, by agreement, at 42 cents per head, per day, for a term of five years. The commutation system has been introduced with great success. In September, 1870, there were 94 convicts still in prison. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in Vermont was $1,800,600. The number of churches was 697. FINANCES. The funded debt of the State is $1,045,500. The unadjusted balance still due the State by the General Government oni account of the war is $207,222. The receipts of the treasury for the fiscal year, ending in September, 1868, were $709,548.96, and the expenditures were $682,993.95. In September, 1868, there were 40 National banks in Vermont, with an aggregate capital of $6,560,012. GOVERNMENT.

Every male adult, either a native born or naturalized citizen of the United States, who has resided in the State one year, and can take the oath prescribed by the Constitution of Vermont, is entitled to vote in the State elections. The Government consists of a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, who is the President of the Senate, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives, chosen annually by the people. The Senate consists of 30 and the House of 241 members. There is also a Secretary of State, a State Treasurer, and an Auditor of Accounts. The judiciary department of the Government consists of a Supreme Court, a Court of Chancery, a County Court in each county, a Probate Court in each probate district, and one or more justices of the peace in each town. “The Supreme Court7 has no original jurisdiction, except for divorce; but is a court of errors for the trial of questions at law, and a court of appeal in chancery suits. Each judge of the Supreme Court is a Chancellor, and holds his court at the same time as the County Court, 210

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VERMONT. which is held in each county by one of the Supreme Judges and two Assistant Judges. The County Courts have original jurisdiction in all civil actions for over $200, or in relation to real estate, except trespass, where the damages claimed exceed $20; also in actions for replevin for amounts over $20. All actions out of the original jurisdiction of the County and Clhancery Courts, except for divorce, must be brought before a justice of the peace.” The Supreme Court consists of one Chief Judge and five Assistant Judges. For the purposes of government, the State is divided into 14 counties. The seat of Government is established at Montpelier. HISTORY. Vermont was first discovered and partly explored by Samuel Champlain, a French officer, in 1609. It was first settled by the English, who founded Fort Dummer, on the present site of Brattleboro’, in 1724. The territory was then believed to be a part of Massachusetts. By the year 1768, 138 townships had been settled. These settlements were made under the authority of the Governor of New Hampshire, who claimed the territory as a part of his province by virtue of the original charter of New Hampshire. In 1763, a controversy arose between New York and New Hampshire, the former laying claim to the territory. An appeal was made to the king, in 1764, who granted to New York jurisdiction to the Connecticut River. New Hampshire acquiesced in this decision, and the authorities of New York “attempted to eject and dispossess the settlers from their lands, and through venal judges decided every case against them. This roused the spirit of the settlers to such a degree, that they commenced, under the leadership of Ethan Allen, Seth Warner, and other bold and fearless men, an armed resistance to the oppression of the New York Government; every officer who undertook to enforce a process of ejection was stripped, tied to a tree, and whipped with beechen rods wvithlout mercy. This application of the’beech seal,’ as it was called, was so effectual that no officers could be procured to serve writs.” The contest went on for ten years. Finally the Governor of New York issued a proclamation offering a reward for the capture of the Vermont leaders, who retorted by offering a reward for the capture of the Attorney General of New York. The Revolution began at this juncture, and suspended the controversy. The Vermont leaders did good service in the cause of the Colonies. Allen, with his own 211

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. company of 83 men, surprised and captured the important post of Ticonderoga, in May, 1775. In the invasion of Canada, he behaved gallantly and was made prisoner, while the Vermont regiment, under Seth Warner, covered the retreat from Quebec, and compelled the surrender of the enemy’s garrison at St. John’s. The “Green Mountain Boys” made a brilliant name during the war, especially in the battles on Lake Champlain, in which nothing but their heroic resistance saved the American force from total annihilation. Their victory at Bennington decided the fate of Burgoyne’s army. In 1776, Vermont petitioned the Continental Congress for admis sion into the Confederacy of the States, but her petition was rejected at the instance of New York. The next year, Vermont declared her independence, and in July made a second effort to secure admission into the Confederacy. Congress evaded a direct reply. The British now made strong overtures to Vermont to renew her allegiance to the Crown, but the Green Mountain leaders put the royal agents off with a vague reply, which was meant to encourage them to an extent sufficient to save the province from invasion by them till the answer of Congress should be known. In 1781, Congress offered to admit Vermont if she would consent to a curtailment of her territory, but she refused the offer. For eight years, she continued to occupy her anomalous position. In 1790, New York, wishing to settle the old dispute with her, revived her claim to the territory, but offered to compromise it on payment of $30,000. The offer was finally accepted, and the long difficulty settled. On the 4th of March, 1791, Vermont was admitted into the Union as a State-making the fourteenth member of the Confederacy, and the first admitted under the Constitution. In 1814, the State contributed a portion of the army which won the battle of Plattsburg. In 1837, (luring the Canadian Rebellion, considerable sympathy was shown for the rebels by the people of Vermont, and some 600 men went into Canada, to take part in the struggle. Upon the approach of a British force sent against them, they withdrew into their own State and surrendered their arms to the United States authorities.

During the late war, on the 19th of October, 1863, a descent was made upon the town of St. Albans by a party of Confederates from Canada, who seized the funds in the bank, amounting to $211,150, and committed some depredations upon the town. They were pursued by the citizens, and the whole party finally captured by the pursuers or by the Canadian authorities. 212

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VERMONT. MONTPELIER. The State contributed to the army of the Union, during the war, a force amounting to 34,655 men. Of these 5128 were killed, a similar number were discharged, and others were permanent]y disabled. CITIES AND TOWNS. The principal towns and cities of the State are Montpelier, the capital, Burlington, Brattleboro’, Rutland, St.

Albans, and Bennington. MONTPELIER, The capital of Vermont, is delightfully situated on the banks of the Onion River, near the centre of the State, about 200 miles northwest of Boston. It is a pretty little city, well built, and conducts an active and valuable trade with the surrounding country. It is on the main line of travel between Boston and Montreal, in Canada, and is thus immediately connected with the great railroad system of the country. 213

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. It became the capital of the State in 1805, and now contains a population of over 3000. The State I-ouse fronts on State street, and is a splendid edifice of native granite. It is in the form of a cross, has a fine portico supported by massive columns, and is surmounted by a dome the apex of which is 100 feet from the ground.

Montpelier contains several flourishing schools, 2 banks, and 5 churches.

Six newspapers are published here. BURLINGTON, In Chittenden county, is the largest city in the State. It is situated on the east shore of Lake Champlain, 40 miles northwest of Montpelier, and about midway down the lake. The surrounding country abounds in magnificent scenery. “Splendor of landscape,” says I)r. Dwight, “is the peculiar boast of Burlington. Lake Champlain, here 16 miles wide, extends 50 miles northward, and 40
southward, before it reaches Crown Point, and throughout a great part of this magnificent expansion is visible at Burlington. In its bosom are encircled many beautiflil islands; 3 of them, North and South Hero, and La Motte, sufficiently large to contain, the first and last, 1 township each, the other 2; forming, together with the township of Alburgh, on the point between the bay of MAIisciscouii and the river St. John, the county of Grand Isle. A numerous train of these islands is here in full view. In the interior, amuong the other interesting objects, the range of the Green Mountains, with its train of lofty summits, commences in the south with the utmost stretch of the eye; and limiting, on the east, one-third of the horizon, declines far northward, until it becomes apparently blended with the surface. On the west, beyond the immense field of glass, formed by the waters of the lake, extends the opposite shore from its first appearance at the south, until it vanishes from the eye in the northwest, at the distance of 40 miles. Twelve or 15 miles from this shore ascends the first range of western mountains; about 15 or 20 miles further, the second range; and at about the same distance the third. The two former commence a few miles south of the head of Lakle George; one on the eastern, and the other on the western side of this water. Where the third commences, I am ignorant. The termination of all these ranges is not far from the latitude of Plattsburg. The prospect of these mountains is superlatively nioble.

The rise of the first range from the lake, the ascent of the second far above 214

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VERMONT. it, and the still loftier elevation of the third, diffuse a magnificence over the whole, which mocks description. Three of the summits, hitherto without a name, are peculiarly distinguished for their sublimity. Among those of the Green Mountains there are two, in the fullest view from this spot, superior even to these. One of them, named the Camel’s Rump, the Camiel’s Back, and the Camel; tili other the Mountaini of Mansfield. The latter of these was by the following expedient proved, not long since, to be higher than the former. A hunter, who had ascended to its highest point, put into his piece a small ball; and pointing it to the apex of the Camel, the ball rolled out. Both of them are, however, very lofty; higher, as I believe, than Killington Peak, notwithstanding the deference with which I regard the estimates of Doctor Williams. The peculiar form of t-( Camel’s Back invests this mountain with a sublimity entirely superior to any other ill the State.” The city is built on rising ground, which becomes more elevated as it recedes from the lake, being quite low immediately at the water. The harbor has been deepened and enlarged by the General Government, and a breakwater constructed for its protection. Two railroads centre here, and afford direct communication with Montreal, Boston, New York City, and Albany. An inmportant trade is carried on upon the lakle. About 7000 tonls of shipping and several steamers are owned here. The city is regularly laid off, and handsomely built. The streets intersect each other at right angles, extend back from the lake for more than a mile, and are well shaded. A handsome public square occupies the centre of the city, and upon this front the court house, the principal hotels, and the most prominent stores. Nearly all the houses have tasteful yards attached to them. Many have extensive grounds, planted with handsome shrubbery. The city contains 4 banks, a number of churches, and 3 newspaper offices. Tle population is about 14387. The Uiiv’ersity of Verrmont occupies a commanding eminence at the eastern end of the city. It was founded in 1791, and is liberally endowed. It occupies four spacious and handsome buildings, and from the dome of the central edifice a view of unsurpassed beauty may be obtained.

RUTLAND, In Rutland county, in the southwest part of the State, is the second city in Vermont. It is situated on Otter Creek, 55 mniles southwest 215

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‘THE GREAT REPUBLIC. RUTLAND. of Montpelier, and 67 miles southeast of Burlington. It is an important railroad centre, four lines converging here, and leading to all parts of the country. It is beautifully situated in the midst of a picturesque region, Killington Peak forming the leading feature of the landscape. The city is well laid out, and neatly built. It contains several churches, a number of schools, public and private, 2
banks, and 3 newspaper offices. It possesses an important trade with the surrounding country, and contains several manufactiiring establishments.

The population is over 8000. Rutland is growing with marked rapidity, and will soon be one of the most inmportant cities in New England. BENNINGTON.

In the county of the same name, in the extreme southwest part of the State, is a thriving town of 4500 inhabitants. It is famous as being the scene of the battle of Bennington, fought August 16th, 1777, when a detachment of Burgoyne’s army, under 216

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VERMONT. Colonel Baume, was terribly beaten by the “Green Mountain Boys,”

led by General Stark. The following account of the engagement is taken from a popular publication: John Stark, the hero of Bennington, was a native of New Hampshire. At an early age hle enlisted in a company of rangers, participated in several conflicts withl tlhe savages, and at last fell into their hands, a prisoner of war. Redeemed by hlis friends for $103, hle joined Rogers’ rangers, and served with distinction thlrough the French and Indian difficulty. AWhen the news camne to his quiet home, that American blood had b)een spilt upon the green at Lexingtonl, lie rallied his countrymen, and hurried on to Boston with 800 brave mountaineers. He presented himself before the American colnmander on the eve of the battle of Bunker Hill, and receiving a colonel’s conmmission, instantly hurried to the in trenlcliienlts. Throughout the battle of Bunker Hill, Stark and his New Hampshire men nobly sustained the hlonor of the patriot cause, and no troops exceecded in bravery the militia regiment of Colonel John Stark.

In the spring of 1776, lie wvent to Canada, and at the battle of Trenton he commanded the right wing of Washington’s army. Ile was at Princeton, Bennington, and several otlher severe battles, al-way-s sustaining his reputation, as a brave, honorable, sterling patriot, and an able general.

He was a great favorite of General Washlington, and very popular in the army. On the 8th of MIay, 1822, aged 93 years, lie “was gathered to his fathers, ” and his remains repose upon thle banks of the beautiful Merrimac, beneath a monument of granite, which bears the inscription-“

MA.JOR-GEN-ERAL STAIZK.” Having given a very brief sketch of the celebrated officer who led our patriot militia upon the field of Bennington, we will proceed with the account of that battle. Thle magnificent army of General Bturgoyne, which invaded thle States in 1777, having beconme straitened for provisions and stores, the royal coimmander ordered a halt, and sent Colonel Baume, a Hessian officer, to scour the country for supplies. Baume took a strong force of British infantry, two pieces of artillery, and a squadron of heavy German dragoons. A great body of Indians, hired and armed by the British, followed his force, or acted as scouts and flanking parties. Starkl, on the intelligence of Burgoyne’s invasion, was offered the command of one of two reginienlts of troops which were raised in New Hampshire, through the exertions, chiefly, of John Langcdon, Speaker of the General Assembly. Stark had served for a long period as General, but at that time was at home, a private citizen.

But at the call of his cotuntrymeli he again took the field. The two regiments were soon raised, and with themi, as senior officer, Stark hastened to oppose the British army. At that time the Vermont militia were enrolled into an organization, called the ” Berkshire Reg,iment,” under Colonel Warner. On arriving near Bennington, Stark sent forward Colonel Gregg, with a small force to reconnoitre, but that officer soon returned with the information that a strong force of British, Hessians and Indians was rapidly approaching. Upon this intelligence, Stark resolved to stand his ground and give battle. Messengers were sent at once to the Berkshire militia to hurry on, and the patriots were directed to see that their weapons were in good order. This was on the 14th of August, 1777. During the day, Baume and his army appeared, and learning that the militia were collecting in firont of his route, the commander ordered his 217

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THE GP-EAT REPI’UBLI,IC. army to halt, and throw up intrenchments. An express was also sent to General Burgoyne for reinforcements. The 1)thll was dull and rainy. Both armies continued their preparations, while waiting for reinforcements. Skirmishling was kept up all day and nig,it, between the miilitia and the Indians, and the latter suffered so severely, that a great polr tion of the savage force left the field, saying that “the woods were full of Yan kees.” About 12 o’clock on the nighlt of the 15thl, a party of Berkshlire militia came into the American camp. At tlhe head of one colmpany, was the Reverend [rr. Allen, of Pittsfield, and that worthy gentleman appeared( full of zeal to meet the enemy-. Sometime before daylight, lie called on General Stark, and said: ‘ General, the people of Berkshire county have often been called out, without being allowed to fight, and if you don’t give them a clhance, they have resolved never to turn out again.” ”’ ery wvell,” replied Stark, “do you want to go at it non, while it is dark and railiy?’ ” No, not just at this moment,”

said the warlike minister. ” Then,” said the General, “ift’ the iordl shlall once more give us sunshine, and I do not give you fi,lghting euou,ghl, I’ll never ask you to come out again! ” This satisfied the preachler, and lie went out to cheer up his flock with the good news. Day dawned, bright and warm, onl the 16th. All nature, invig,orated by the miild August rain, glared withl beauty and freslhness. Before sunrise, the Ameri cans Nwere in motion, while fromi the British intrenchmnents, the sound of btugles and the roll of drums, told that Baume’s forces were ready for action. Stark early arranged his plan of attack. Colonel Nichols, with 300 men, was sent out to attack the Britishl rear; Colonel Herrick, with 300 men, marchled against the ri,ght flank, but was ordered to join Nichlols before making his assault general. Withl about 300 men, Colonels Hubbard and Stickney were sent against the entrenched front, while Stark, withl a small reserve, waited to operate whenever occasion offered. It must be remembered that the American forces were esilitia, while Baume’s armv was made up of well-disciplined, well-armed, and experiencedl soldiers. Iaiay of the patriots were armed with fowling-pieces, and there were whole companies without a bayonet. They had no artillery. General Stark waited impatiently until the roar of musketry proclaimed that the different detacllhments had commenced their attack, and then formling his small battalion, lie made his memorable speech: “Boys! there’s thte eaeaiiy, and we 2usist beat them, or Jiolly Stark sleeps a widow to-nightt-Forward!” His soldiers, wvith enthusiastic shouts, rushed forward upon the Hessian defences, and the battle became general. The Hessian dragoons, dismounted, met the Americans with stern bravery. The two cannons, loaded with grape and canister, swept the lill-sidle with dreadful effect. Stark’s white horse fell in less than ten minutes after his gallant rider came under fire, but on foot, with his hat in one hand, and his sabre in the othler, he kept at the head of his men, who, without flinching a single foot, urged their way up the little lhill.

Brave Parson Allen, with a clubbed musket, was seen ainid the smoke, fighting in the front platoon of his company. The whole field was a volcano of fire. Stark, in his official report, says that the two forces were withlin a few yards of each other, and ” the roaring of their guns was like a continuous clap of tlhunder ” The Hessian and British regulars, accustomed to hlard-fout,lht fields, held their ground stubbornly and bravely. For more than two hours the battle hlung in even scale. At length, IBaumie ordered a charge; at that instant he fell, mortally wounded, and his men charging forward, broke their ranks in 218

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YAE’RMONT. suchl a manner, that thle Americans succeeded, after a fierce hand to hland fight, in entering, the intrenchments. Stark shouted to his men, “Forward, boys, charge them home!” and his troops, miaddened by the conflict, swept the hill with irresistible valor. Thley pushed forward without discipline or order, seized the artillery, and gave chase to tIhe flying enemy. The field being won, plunder became the object of the militia. The gutns, sabres, stores and equipments of the defeated foe were being gatlhered up, when Colonel Breymanl, with )00 men, suddenly appeared upon the field. He had been sent by Burgoyne to reinfi)rce Baume, but the heavy rain had prevented his men from marching, at a rapid rate. Thile flying troops instanltly rallied and joined the new array, wNhich speedily assumed an order of battle, and blegan to press the scattered forces of the patriots. This was a critical period. Stark put forthl every effort to rally his lmen, but they were exhausted, scattered, and nearly out of ammunition. It seemed as if the fortune of the day was in the royal hands, when from the edge of a strip of forest, half a mile off, came a loud and genuine American chleer. Stark turned, and behlleld emerging from the wood, the Berkshire reg,iment, under Colonel Warner. This body of men, also delayed by the rain. after a forced march, had just reached the battle field, panting for a share in the affray. General Stark hastened to the captain of the foremost cOlmpany, and ordered him to lead his men to the chlarge at once. But the captain coolly-asked, ” lhere’s the colonelt? I want to see Colonel Warner before I move. ” The colonel was sent for, and the redoubtable captain, drawing himself up. said, v-ithl a nasal twang peculiar to the puritans of old, ”’ Naow, Kernal, what d’ye wan-alt me tu dew?” “Drive those red-coats from the hill yonder,’” was the answer. ” Wall, it shall be dlone,” said the captain, and issuing the necessary orders, hlie led his men to the cliarge witlhout a moment’s hesitation. Said an eye-w-itness, afterwards, ” The last we sawv of Warner’s regiment for half an lhour, w-as lhen -they entered the smoke and fire about half way up the lhill.” Stark withl a portion of his rallied troops supported the Berkshire men, and the royal forces were defeated after a close contest. A portion of them escaped, but 700 men and officers were taken prisoners, among the latter Colonel Baume, who soon died of hlis wound. The British lost 207 men killed, and a large number wounded.

Of the Americans, about 100 were killed and the same number wounded. The spoils consisted of fiur pieces of cannon, several hundred stand of excellent muskets, 2;)0 dragoon swordscs, 8 brass drums, and 4 wagons laden with stores, clothling and ammunitiolln. This victory severely crippled Burgoyne, and discouraged his alrmly, while it enli-venled the Americans from one extent of the country to the o’tlther. It taught the Britishl troops to respect the American mnilitia, and it was a brilliant precursor to the victories of Saratoga and Bemis’ Heights. Congress voted thanks to General Starkl and his brave troops for their great victory, and took measures to push on the war witlh renewed energy and hope. MISCELI,A NY. THI-E TAKING OF TICONDEROGA. Inasimuch as the capture of the fortress of Ticonderoga was tle work of the ” Green Mountain Boys,” it seems but just to append the 219

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. account of their exploits to the description we have given of their State. The following narrative is taken firom “Williamis’

History of Vermiont:” The first steps for this object seem to have been taken by some gentlemen in Connecticut; and Mlessrs. Deane, Wooster, Parsons, and others engaged in the affair. The success depended on the secrecy with which the affair could be mnmaged. Thleir first object was to obtain a sum of money to bear the niecessary expenses. They procured this to the amount of about $1800, from thle general assemibly of Connecticut, by way of loan. Several of the mlilitia captains pushed forward to Salisbury, the nortlihwestern town in that colony; and after a little consultation concluded not to spend any time in raising men, but to procure a quantity of powder and b)all, and set off inmmediately for B
en’inigton, and engage Etlhan Allen in the business. With his usual spirit of activity and enterprise, Allen undertook the manageiment of the scheme; and set off to the northward, to raise and collect all the mien that he could find. The Connecticut gentlelmen having procured a small quantity of provisions, went on to Castleton; and were there joined by Allen, with the men that lie had raised from the new settlements. The lwhole number that were assembled amounted to 270, of which 230 were raised on the New Hampshire granlts, distinguishled at that tiime by thle name of Green lotuntain Boys; so called from the Green IounItains, ailmonig which tley resided. Sentries were immediately placed on all the roads, and the necessarly measures taken to procure intelligence of the state of the works and garrison at Ticon de rog,,a. AVWhile Allen and his associates were collecting at Castleton, Colonel Arnold arrived, attended only by a servant. This officer belouged to New Haven, in Connecticut. As soon as the news arrived at that place that hostilities had commenced at Lexington, Arnold, then a captain, set out at the head of a volunteer company, and miarchled with the greatest expeditioni to Cambridge. Tle day after his arrival, lie attended the Massachlusetts committee of salety, and reported to them that the fort at Ticonderoga was in a ruinous condition; tbat it was garrisoned by about 40 men, and contained a large quantity of artillery and nmilitary stores; and mi,ght easily be captured.

The committee wished to avail themselves of his information and activity; and on the 3d of May appointed lhim a colonel, and gave him directions to enllist 400 men, and marchl for the reduction of Ticonderoga. Under these orders, and with this design, lie joined the men that were assembling at Castleton; but was unknown to any of them but a MAr. Blagdelln, one of the Connecticut officers. His commission being examined, it was agreed in a council that lie should be adnmitted to join and act with tliheil; but that Allen should also have the commission of a colonel, and hlave the conmmandl; and that Arnold should be considered as his assistant. To procure intelligence, Captain Noahl Plhelps, one of the gentlemen fromn Connecticut, disguised himuself in the habit of one of the poor settlers, and went into the fort, pretending lie wanted to be shlaved, and inquired for a barber. Affecting an awkward appearance, and asking many simple questions, he passed unsuspected, and had an opportunity to observe the state of everytrling within tlhe walls. Returning to his party, lie gave them thle necessary infornmation, and the same night they began their march to the fort. WAVitlh so muchl expedition and secrecy had the enterprise been conducted, that Colonel Allen arrived at Orwell, opposite to Ticonderoga, on thle 9thl of May, at 220

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VERMONT. night, with his 230 Green Mountain Boys, without any intelligence or apprelhen sion on the part of the garrison. It was with difficulty that boats could be pro cured to pass the lake; a few, however, being collected, Allen and Arnold passed over, with 83 men, and landed near the works. Arnold now wished to assume the comnmand, to lead on the men, and swore that lie would go in himself the first. Allen swore that hlie should not, but that hle himself would be the first man that should enter. The dispute beginniing to run high, some of the gentlemen that were present interposed, and it was agreed that both should go in together, Allen on the right hand and Arnold on the left. On the 10th of Mfay, in the gray of the morning, they both entered-the port leading to the fort, followed by their men. The sentry snapped his fusee at Allen, and retreated thllrough the covered way. The Americans followed the sentry, and immediately drew up on the parade. Captain De la Place commanded, but hlie was so little apprehensive of any danger or hostility, that he was surprised in his bed.

As soon as lie ap peared, hlie was ordered to surrender the fort. “Upon what authority do you require it?” said De la Place. “I demand it,” said Allen, “in the name of the great Jehovah and the Continental Congress.”

Surrounded by the Americans, who were already in possession of the works, it was not in the power of the British captain to make any opposition, and hlie surrendered his garrison prisoners of war, without knowing by what authority Allen was acting, or that hlostilities had commenced between Britain and the Colonies. After Allen had landed with his party, the boats were sent back for Colonel Seth Warner with the remainder of the men, who had been left under his command. Warner did not arrive till after the place had surrendered, but he took the command of a party who set off for Croon Point. At that place there were only a sergeant and 12 men to perform garrison duty. They surrendered upon the first summons, and Warner took possession of Crown Point on the same day that Ticonderoga was given up. Another party surprised Skeensboroughl, made a prisoner of Major Skeen, the son, took possession of a strong stone house which lie had built, secured his dependents and domestics, and made themselves masters of that importalit harbor. By these enterprises the Americans had captured a British captain, lieutenant, and 44 privates. In the forts they found above 200 pieces of cannon, some mortars, howitzers, and large quantities of ammunition and military stores; and a warehouse full of materials for carrying on the business of building boats. Having succeeded in their attempts against Ticonderoga and Crown Point, it was still necessary, in order to secure the command of Lake Clhamplain, to get possession of an armed sloop which lay at St. John’s, at the north end of the lake. To effect this purpose, it was determined to man and arm a schooner, which lay at South Bay. Arnold had the command of the schooner, and Allen took the command of a number of batteaux, and both sailed for St. John’s. The wind being fresh at the south, Arnold soon passed the lake, surprised and captured the armed sloop in the harbor of St. John’s: in about an hour after he had taken her, the wind suddenly shifted to the north, and Arnold made sail with his prize, and met Allen with his batteaux at some distance from St. John’s. 221

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MAS SACHU SETT S. Area………… 7800 Square Miles. Population in 1str0…….. 1,o‘31,066 Population ill 1870…….. 1,457,351 THE State of Massachusetts is situated (including its islands) between 41~ 10’ and 42~ 53’ NT. latitu(le, and between 69~ 50’ and 73~ 30’ W. longitude. It is bounde(l on the north by N1ewf Hampshire and Vermont, on the east l)y the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by the Atlantic, and the States of Rhode Island and Connecticut, and on the west by New York. It is very irregular in shape, its southeastern extremity extending far out into the ocean, and curving so as to almost enclose Cape Cod Bay. Its greatest length from east to west is about 145 miles. The eastern side is about 90 miles wide from north to south, and its western end about 48 mriles broad.

TOPOGRAPHY. The State has a considerable extent of sea coast, and possesses a numl)er of excellent harbors. JI3assachusetts Bay and Cap)e Cod Bay are really one and the same sheet of water, and comprise a large gulf, whichl indents the eastern coast of the State for about 25 miles in a southwest and 65 miles in a southeast direction. The upper, or niortl-lern part of this gulf is called Massachusetts Bay, and the lower part Cape Cod Bay. The latter is famous as having b)een the harbor in which the Mayflower cast anchor after her long and weary voyage from England, in 1620. The extreme eastern part of the State extends around Cap)e Cod Bay, enclosing it in a kind of semicircle. Plymouth is situated oi the northwest side of this bay. Boston lies on the west side of Massachusetts Bay. 222

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MAISSACIIUSETTS. Bitzza(&d’s Bay, in the southeastern part of the State, extends inland in a northward direction for about 30 miles, and is about 7
miles wide. The harbors of New Bedford, Fair Ilaven, and Rochester lie along this bay, which is separated from Vineyard Sound by the Elizabeth Islands. J’IIacrtha’s Tineyard and the Elizabeth Islands lie ill the Atlantic to the south of Barnstable county, and together form Duke’s county. J-c1rtha’s Tri)ieyai’d is separated from Barnstable county, on the main land, by ivineyard Sound, a sheet of water from 3 to 7 miles wide.

The island is 21 miles long, and from 3 to 9 miles wide. Edgarton is the chief town. The Elizabeth Islands, 16 in number, lie between Buzzard’s Bay and Vineyard( Sound. Only 2 or 3 are inhabited. The people of Duke’s county are engaged principally in fishing and navigation. ~anttucket is the name given to a large island in the Atlantic, about 30 miles south of Barnstable couuty. It is about 15 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles wide.

Several small islands lie immediately on its northern coast, and with it form the county of Nantucket. The chief town is Nantucket, on the northern part of the main island. This town was founded in 1659, and is one of the most thlriving in the State. It is compactly and neatly built, has a library of several thousand volumes, 8 or 9 churches, a bank with a capital of $200,000, and several handsome buildings. The inhabitants are actively engaged in the fisheries, and, until the discovery of petroleum rendered this traffic of comparatively little importance, Nantucket was one of the princip)al depots of the whale trade. In 1863, 4407 tons of shipping were owned on the island. Steam communication is maintained with the mainland. In 1860, the population of the town was 5000, of the county 6064. In 1870, it was 4134. During the Revolution and the war of 1812-15, Nantucket sent out numerous privateers against the British commerce, and a Nantucket ship was the first to show the “Stars and Stripes” in the river Thames, after the recognition of our independence by Great Britain. The surface of MAIassachusetts is generally uneven, and in the western part is broken into mountain ranges of a moderate elevation. The southeastern part is level and sandy, and the eastern and middle parts are broken and rugged. The Green Mountains pass across the western part of the State, from Vermont, and extend into Connecticut. They are about 20 or 30 miles west of the Connecticut River, and l)ursue a course parallel with it.

Besides this range, there are several 223

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. isolated peaks in the State, the principal of which are Waclhusetts Mountain, 2018 feet; in the northcentral part of the State, Mount Tom, 1200 feet; and Mount Holyoke, 910 feet, near Northampton. These are considered outliers of the White Mountain range, of New Hampshire. The Green Mountains are divided into two ridges in Massachusetts. The eastern is the lowest, and is called the Hioosic Ridge; and the western is the most elevated, and is called the Tang kannic Range.

Its highest peak is Mount Washington, 2264 feet, in the soutlhwest corner of the State. The Conitecticut is the principal river of the State, flowing across it firom north to south, and into the State of Connecticut.

It is rendered navigable by means of canals, and furnishes excellent waterpower. The eier~‘imac, which has already been described in the chapter on New Hampshire, turns the mills of Lowell and Lawrence. The tributaries of the former stream in this State are MIiller’s, the Chicoopee, Deerfield, and Westfield rivers; those of the latter, the Nashua and Concord. Taunton River furnishes excellent waterpower, and supplies tile factories of the cities of Taunton and Fall River. Charles River rises in the interior, and flows into Massachusetts Bay.

“Massachusetts abounds in picturesque scenery. This observation is especially true of the western part of the State, and the view of the Connecticut River and Valley from Mount Holyoke has long been celebrated.

Though rather less than 1000 feet in height, the views it commands, and its easy ascent, being traversed to its summit by a good carriage road, have invited hither many tourists in the season for travelling. The spectator has below him the beautiful meandering Connecticut wending its way through the meadows and amnong the villages, while to the southwest, and at no great distance, is Mount Tom; and still farther in the same direction, Bald or Washington Mount, and in the northwest Saddle Mountain, the highest ground in the State; and turning to the east and northeast hle has the peaks of Wachusetts in Massachusetts, and Monad nock in New Hampshire; the intermediate parts of the scene being filled up with a great variety of landscape, villages, hills, rivulets, and low mountains.

There is a good hotel on the top of Mount Holyoke, and in the vicinity the beautiful village of Northampton, at which the tourist may take up his quarters and make his excursion from thence over the mountain. A yet more extensive view is obtained from Saddle Mountain, but it has hitherto lain more out of the line of travel, and been less visited, though of thrice the elevation of Mount Tom. It commands a view of the 224

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MAISSACHUSETTS. surrounding country for 40 or 50 miles, extending to the Catskills on the west, overlooking the Green Mountains on the north, south, and east, and on the northeast reaching to Monadnock Mountain, in New Hampshire. This mountain is fertile to the summit, near which is a small lake or pond. Goodrich describes a phenomenon as having oc curred here in 1784, called by the inhabitants the bursting of a cloud. About dclawn of a certain morning, the tenants of a house on the banks of the Hioosic, on the western slope, were aroused by the roaring of the torrent, and had barely time to escape before their dwelling was swept away by the flood. The torrent wore a gully in the mountain 20 feet deep, and swept away the timber entirely from about 10 acres of land. Berkshire county abounds in sublime and picturesque scenery, and has become a favorite resort not only for tourists, but for citizens seeking pleasant summer residences. Hawthorne, Miss Sed,g wick, Fanny Kemble, James, and others, have rendered their tribute to the chlarms of Berkshire scenery, by taking up their abode there for considerable periods. The Ice Hole, a narrow and deep ravine of great wildness, in Stockbridge, where the ice remains the year round; a fall of about 70 feet descent, anmid wil,l scenery, in the Housatonic, in Dalton; the Natural Bridge, on Hudson’s Brook, in Adams, where a fissure of from 30 to 60 feet deep, and about 500 feet long, has been worn through the limestone rock, forming a bridge 50 feet above the water; a rock of 30 or 40 tons, in New Ma\rlboro’, so nicely balanced that a finger can move it; and Hanging Mountain, on the Farmington River, in Sandisfield, rising in a perpendicular wall above the river to the height of more than 300 feet; are, after the mountains already named, the most remarkable natural objects in Berkshire. Blue Hill, 11 miles southwest of Boston, which cornmmnands a fine view of Boston Harbor and the ocean, is 635 feet high, being the most elevated land in Eastern Massachusetts. On the side of Mount Toby, a hill of sandstone, elevated about 1000 feet al)ove the Connecticut, is a cavern about 150 feet in length and 60 in depth. Nahant, a rocky promontory on the north shore of Boston Bay, extending 4 miles into the sea, is the most noted wateringplace in Massachusetts. It is about 9 miles northeast of Boston, and commands a fine view of the ocean, and of the shipping entering and departing from the harbor. In addition to its good beach, Nahant has the charm of wildness given to it by the rugged rocks which formn the promontory, and into the caves and recesses of which the sea surges at times with great violence. The mineral springs of this State have 15 225

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. not acquired any great celebrity beyond her own limits; the principal are, one in the town of Hopkinton, impregnated with carbonic acid, and carbonates of limnle and iron; one in Shutesbury, containing muriate of lime; and a chalybeate sulphur spring in Winchenden.

The Quincy granite quarries, 6 or 8 miles south of Boston, in a range of hills 200 feet high, are worthy of a visit.” * MINERALS. Granite abounds, and is shipp)ed to all parts of the Union for buildimg purposes. The gray granite of the Quincy Hills is famous. Marble is found in Berkshire county. The new wings of the Capitol at Washling,ton, and Girard College at Philadelphia are constructed of marble fromni this county. Small deposits of anthracite coal are found in Hampshire county. Iron is found in great abundance west of the Connecticut River, and in limited quantities in Plymouth and Bristol counties, while lead mines have been worked in Hampshire county (at Northampton), since 1765. The other minerals are gneiss, quartz, mica, limestone, hornl)lende, serpentine, asbestus, and slate. CLIMATE. The climate of Massachusetts is very severe in the winter. The writer has seen the thermometer indicate 28~ below zero at 8 o’clock A..r. in Boston. The sutmmers are short, and would be pleasant on the coast were it not for the sudden changes from extreme heat to cold by which they are marked. The spring is rendered disagreeable by severe northeast winds, which are a fruitful source of pulmonary complaints. In the western part of the State, the climate is steadier. The winter sets in early in all sections, and lasts long, but the spring, though late, is rapid. The early fruit trees are in full bloom by the middle of April. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil of Massachusetts is not naturally fertile, but has been rendered productive by the industry of its people. The best lands are in the central and western counties, especially in the valleys of the Connecticut, Housatonic, and other streams. The farmers of Massachlusetts compare favorably with those of any other part of the Union * Lippincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1156. 226

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MNIASSACHUSETTS. iln inatelig,ence, and there is perhaps no State which devotes more scientific skill to the production of its crops. The population is the densest in the Union, and the amount of grain produced is not adequlate to the demands of the community. In 1869 there were 2,155,512 acres of improved land in Massachulsetts, and 1,183,212 acres of unimproved land. The following statement shows the remainder of the agricultural wealth of the State at the present time: Casli value of farms,……… -… $123,255,948 Aalue of farming implements and inclhinery, 3,894,998 Numbler of horses,…… ” asses and mules,… m milch cows…… otlher cattle,….. sheelp,…. swille…….. A~alule of domestic ainimals,… 3utslhels of wheat,…….. rye……… Illdian’

CO’u,…. oats,……. Irish potatoes,…. barley,……. buckwheat,……

Pounlds of wool,……. butter,…… ” cheese..5….. liops,……. “
maple sugar,……. ” beeswax and honey… Tons of hay………. Value of oreliard products,… “4 market garden products,. ” lhome-made manufactures, “4 slaughtered a animals,.. COMMERCE. In the extent and valtie of her commerce, MAassachusetts stands next to Newv York. The total tonnage of the State in 1859 was 829,034, of which 154,048 were engaged in the whale fisheries. In 1855, the total value of the product of the whale fisheries was 86,766,996. In the same year the product of the cod and mackerel fisheries was $2,902,796. In 1861, the total exports of Ma.ssachusetts were 816 ),532,736, and the total imports, $45,399,844. 22

49,450 189 160,220 140 340 119,,560 98,540 ,-,‘9,737,744 167,000 462,000

1,950,000 1, 523, 000 4,300,000 144,000 8 i-), 0 0 0 377,267 8,297,936

5,’-) 94,090 111,301 1,006,078 62,414 8;-)O,Ooo ,”925,519 .$‘I,397,623

S,‘245,886 $2,91,5,045 I I

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. MANUFACTURES. Massachusetts is the third State in the Union in manufactures, and the first as regards her cotton and woollen manufactures. By the census of 1860, there were 8176 establishments in the State, devoted to manufactures mining, and the mechanic arts, employing a capital of $133,000,000, and 216,300 hands, and yielding an annual product of $266,000,000. There were 200 cotton mills, employing 12,635 miale, and 22,353 female hands, and a capital of $‘33,300,000. They consumed raw material worth $14,778,334; paid $7,221,156 for labor; and yielded an annual product of $36,745,864. There were 131 woollen mills, employing 6645 mlale, and 4608 female hands, and a capital of $10,179,500. They colnsumed raw material worth $11,613,174, paid $2,645,868 for labor, and returned an annual product of $18,930,000. The value of leather produced was $10,354,056; of boots and shoes, $46,440,209; of pig iron, $403,000; of rolled iron, $1,291,200; of steam en,gines and machinery, $5,131,238; of agricultural implements, $1,740,943; of sawed and planed lumber, $4,200,000; of malt liquors, $659,000; of spirituous liquors, $1,266,000; of filrniture, $3,665,415. In 1865, the value of paper manufactured was $9,008,521. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In proportion to its size and population, Massachusetts is the most important State in the Union as regards its railroads. In 1865, there were 1975 miles of single trackl in the State. These were constructed and equipped at a cost of $72,175,091, and during the year 1865, their net earnings amounted to $6,173,157.

Boston is the great railroad centre. Three continuous lines extend from that city into New York, two of them passing through the principal townus of IRhode Island and Connecticut. Two lines extend from Boston to Portland, passing through the intervening towns. Lines extend from the formier city to all parts of the State, into New Hamp)shire, Vermont, and Canada, and by means of the Boston and Troy (N. Y.) Railroad, there is now unbroken railroad comimunication between Boston and all parts of the west and the Pacific Ocean. EDUCATION. The State provides liberally for the cause of education. “The Board of Education, which consists of the Governor, Lieutenant 228

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BIASSACHUSETTS. HAIRVARD IUNIVERSITY, CAIMBIIDGE, M3ASSACHUSETTS.

Governor, and eight members appointed by the Governor and Council, has the general oversight of the Normal Schools, Public Schools, and of Educational Statistics. The officers, trustees, or persons in charge of every institution of learning, whether literary, scientific, or professional, public or private, and of all reform s(chools or almnshouses, are required by law to report to the Board on or before the 1st lay of June in each year, giving such statistics as the Board shall prescribe. The Board appoints a Secretary, who is its chief executive officer, and who gives his whole time to the supervision and improvement of common schools. Each town elects a School Committee of three persons, or a number which is a multiple of three, who examine teachers, visit schools, and have a general oversight of the schools of the town. In the cities and some of the larger towns, the School Committee appoints a superintendent, who has the immediate charge of the schools. The number of school districts is annually diminishiig, there being 323 less in 1867
than in 1866, and 672 less than in 1861. Where the districts are abolished, the schools are managed entirely by the towns. Each towni hlaving 500 or more families is by law required to maintain a public high school. 2,9

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. “Provision for the special education of teachers is made in four State Normal Schools, two of which are for both sexes, and two for female teachers only. A Girls’ High and Normal School, and an.ef ficient Training School, are also maintained by the city of Boston, for preparing teachers for primary schools. Teachers’ Institutes are held annually under the direction of the Secretary of the Board of Edu cation.”

The public schools are supported by direct taxes. In 1870, the amount expended for these schools, exclusive of the cost of erecting and repairing buildings, was $3,125,053. In 1867 there were in the State 4838
public schools, presided over by 7759 teachers. The attendance was as follows: in summer 235,241, in winter 237,364; average attendance-in summer 189,149, in winter 190,954. Harvard University, at Cambridge, is the oldest college in the Union, and ranks among the first in standing and usefulness. Besides the regular collegiate course, it has schools of divinity, medicine, law, science, and philosophy. Its museum of Scientific Zoology is the best in the country. Its faculty has included some of the most eminent men of the land, and many of our greatest statesmen, jurists, and men of science are numbered amongst its alumni. Williams College, at Williamstown, Amherst, at Amherst, Holy Cross, at Worcester, and Tufts, at Medford, are the other colleges of the State. All are well attended, anid are prosperous. In 1867, there were 55 incorporated academies, with an average attendance of 3696 pupils; and 553 private schools of all grades, the estimated average attendance of which was 14,417. In 1860, there were in the State 1852 libraries, containing 1,997,151 volumes. Of these, 853
were public. In Massachusetts, as well as in the other New England States, there is a public library in nearly every town. In 1860, there were 222
periodicals published in the State-112 political, 31 religious, 51
literary, and 28 miscellaneous. Of these, 17 were daily, 3 triweekly, 14
semiweekly, 145 weekly, 36 monthly, 6 quarterly, and 1 annual. Their aggregate annual circulation was 102,000,760 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

The State Prison is located at Charlestown. It was founded in 1800. The commutation system is in successful operation. Prisoners are confined in separate cells, and are required to perform their 230

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MASSACHUSETTS. work in silence. On the 30th of September, 1869, there were 593 prisoners confined in this establishment. The profits of the labor performed by the convicts amounted, during the year 1868-69, to $26,781
over the expenses of conducting the establishment. In the old graveyard adjoining the prison is the monument to John Harvard, erected to his memnory in 1828, by the students of Harvard University. There are in Massachusetts 20 jails, 16 houses of correction, and 1 House of Industry.

The Board of State Charities has charge of all the charitable institutions of the State. These are the lunatic asylums, the almshouses, and reform schools. There are three State Lunatic Hospitals, located respectively at Worcester, Taunton, and Northampton. All these receive State, town, and private patients. The State patients at the Northampton Hospital consist of incurables transferred from the other institutions. The State Almshouses are three in number, and are located respectively at Tewksbury, Monson, and Bridgewater. The Tewksbury Almshouse is a receptacle for aged, helpless, harmless, and insane paupers; that at Monson is provided with a primary school, and is devoted to children old enough to receive education; while the Bridgewater Almshouse is a place of confinement for persons sentenced to a workhouse. There are three Reform Schools,-the State Industrial School for girls, at Lancaster, where a most excellent influence is exerted for the purpose of reclaiming young girls from vicious lives; the State Reform School for boys, at Westborough, where a similar course of treatment is pursued for boys; and the Massachusetts Nautical Sehool, established on two ships, at Boston and New Bedford, in which boys of bad character are placed for reformation. In this school the boys are trained for the U.S. Navy and the whaling service. These institutions are all in a flourishing condition. The State also supports wholly, or in part, the School for Idiotic and Feeble-Minded Youth, at Soutli Boston; the Perkins Institution and Massachusetts Asylum for the Blind; the Massachusetts General Hospital; the Eye and Ear Infirmary; the Washingtonian Home; the Discharged Soldiers’ Home; the Temporary Asylum for Discharged Female Prisoners; the Home for the Friendless; the New England Moral Reform Society; and the Agency for Discharged Convicts.

Pupils are maintained at the expense of the State in the 231

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TI-IE GREAT REPUBLIC. “Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb,” at Hartford, Coun., and at the Clarke Institution for Deaf Mutes, at Northampton, Mass.

RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in Massachusetts was $15,393,607. In the same year there were 1636 churches ill the State. FINANCES. On the 1st of January, 1869, the total State debt was $27,735,870. Tin 1868, the receipts of the Treasury were $16,031,257, and the expenditures 817,233,220, leaving a deficit of $1,201,963, to be provided for by taxation. On the 1st of October, 1868, there were 207

National Banks in the State, with an aggregate paid-in capital of $80,032,000. GOVERNMENT. The right of suffrage in this State is denied to paupers and persons under guardianship, but is extended to each male adult, able to read the Constitution of the State in the English language and to write his name, who has been a resident of the State for one year, and of his. election district for six months. The State Government is vested in a Governor, assisted by an Executive Council of 8 members (one from each Council district of the State), a LieutenantGovernor, a Legislature consisting of a Senate (of 40 members) and a House of Representatives (of 240 members), together styled “The General Court of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts,” a Secretary of State, a Treasurer, an Auditor, and an Attorney General, all chosen annually by the people, on the Tuesday after the first Monday in November. They enter upon their duties on the first Wednesday in January. The Judiciary comprises a Supreme Judicial Court, a Superior Court, a Probate Court in each county, and municipal and police courts in the cities and towns. The Supreme Judicial Court consists of a Chief Justice, and five Associate Justices.

It has exclusive cognizance of all capital crimes, and “exclusive chancery jurisdiction so far as chancery powers are conferred by statute, and concurrent original jurisdiction of all civil cases where the amount in dispute exceeds $4000 in Suffolk county and $1000 in all other counties.”

232 L

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MASSACHUSETTS. The Superior Court consists of a Chief Justice, and nine Associate Justices. It has jurisdiction in all criminal cases, except capital cases, and in all civil cases where the amount in dispute is over $20. The Governor of the State, by and with the advice and consent of his Council, appoints the Judges of both Courts, who hold office during good behavior. The seat of Government is established at Boston. For the purposes of government, the State is divided into 14 counties. HISTORY.

According to the icelandic legend, Massachusetts was first discovered by Biorn, in the year 906; but, as we have elsewhere intimated, this legend is vague and devoid of substantial proof, and the credit of the first discovery must be given to John Cabot, who visited the coast in 1497, under the orders of Henry VII. of England, and five years after the first voyage of Columbus. He failed to discover any inhlabitants,‘but at a later period, his son, Sebastian, while endeavoring to discover a northwest passage to China, visited the waters of New England, found that the country was inhabited, and took three of the natives with him to England.

The Spaniards subsequently made some landings on the coast, and carried off a number of the natives, whom they sold in Europe as slaves. No attempt at settlement was made until 1602, when Bartholomew Goslold, with a colony of 32 persons, made a lodgement on one of the Elizabeth Islands.

The settlement was abandoned in a few weeks, however, in consequence of internal dissensions, and the expedition returned to England. This attempt had the effect of bringing the new country into prominent notice in England, and the Plymouth Company was organized, several years later, under the leadership of Sir Jolhn Popham and Sir Ferdinando Gorges, the first the Chief Justice of the King’s Bench, and the other the Governor of Plymouth. This company was given almost sovereign powers over the territory assigned it. In 1614, Captain John Smith published a map of New England, together with a description of the country along the coast, which greatly increased the interest felt in the matter. The company sent out one or two trading expeditions, which were successful; but the first permanent settlement was made in 1620, at Plymouth, by a band of English Puritans, who were fleeing from religious persecution in their own country, and whose attempt was made without the sanction or authority of the Plymouth Company. They held a patent from the Virginia Company, whose 233

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. territory lay south of the Hudson, and the king would do no more than promise not to molest them. Soon after landing at Plymouth, this colony made a treaty of friendship with the Indians, which was not broken for a long period. The settlers endured many privations and hardships, but bore them all bravely until they had placed their settlement beyond all danger of failure, and were joined by other emigrants from England. Other lodgemients were made along the coast during the next twenty years, at Salemn, Boston, Charlestown, Roxbury, Watertown, Dorchester, Mystic and Saugus (Lynn), and other places. In 1629, Charles I. granted the Plymouth Colony a charter, and the government of the province was divided between the colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay, which were united under one administration in 1692. The Bay colony was miuch annoyed by the interference of the home Government, which became jealous of its rapid growth and prosperity, and after an aggravating contest, which at one time bade fair to result in blows, the matter was settled. The king refilused to yield what he claimed as his right to interfere in the domestic affairs of the colony, whose officials, however, adroitly managed to prevent the exercise of such authority on his part. In 1637, the war against the Pequots broke out, and the settlements towards Connecticut, upon which colony fell the principal shock of the war, suffered considerably. In 1675, King Philip’s war began. This struggle was a blood(ly one, and lasted for more than a year. During its continuance, 12 or 13 towns were destroyed, more than 600 men were killed, and about 600 houses burned by the savages. The war cost the colony half a million of dollars, and rendered onetwentieth of the number of families homeless.

Massachusetts at this time claimed jurisdiction over New Hampshire and Maine, but was deprived of it by the home Government in 1684. This act was followed by the appointment of Sir Edmund Andros as Governor of New England. Andros and his Council were guilty of the most infamous tyranny.

They made laws and levied taxes in the most outrageous manner, and rendered themselves so odious to the colony, that as soon as news was received of the landing of William and Mary in England, the people of Boston rose in arms, imprisoned Andros and his companions, reinstated the former magistrates, and declared for the new king and queen. They were sustained in this action by the rest of the province. In 1690, in the war with France, Massachusetts sent out an expe 234

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MAiiSSACHUSETTS. dition under Sir William Phipps, which took and plundered Port Royal. When the fleet returned, the Province was not able to pay the men engaged in the expedition, and treasury notes were issued for that purpose. This was the first paper money seen in the colony. In 1692, the colonies of Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay were united by the Crown under one Government. Massachusetts at this time was divided into the counties of Suffolk, Essex, Middlesex, and Hampshire. It contained 55 towns, and had a total population of about 40,000. Plymouth was divided into the counties of Plymouth, Bristol, and Barnstable. It contained 17 towns, and had a population of 7000. Sir William Phipps was appointed the first Governor under the new charter. In 1692, a remarkable delusion broke out in the colony on the sub ject of witchcraft, beginning at and centering in Salem. In 1703, great suffering prevailed along the western border in consequence of the outrages of the French and Indians. During this war, Deerfield was burned a second time, having been first destroyed during King Philip’s war. The struggle lasted several years, but the colony continned to grow and prosper in spite of it. In 1722, war was resumed with the Indians, and continued for three years. It was prosecuted with such vigor on the part of the province, that the power of the savages was broken forever, and the long contest with them which had lasted for forty years was finally and triumphantly closed. In 1744, war again broke out with France, and the forces of the province distinguished themselves in the capture of Louisburg. Peace was restored in 1748, but did not long continue. The colony bore a fair share in all the struggles against the power of France in America, and responded liberally to every call for men and money. The lessons learned in these contests were of infinite value in the great struggle for freedom which followed them. At the commencement of the troubles with the mother country, the province was well settled in all its parts, and had a total population of about 250,000 souls. In spite of the efforts of Great Britain to prevent it, it had built up a flourishing commerce, was largely engaged in the fisheries, and was to some extent interested in manufactures. Its enterprise and energy, and above all, the native independence of its people, made it the chief mark of the aggressions of the Crown, which were met by it with spirit and firmness.

Massachusetts was the first to inaugurate an organized effort to secure justice from the Crown, which example was followed by her sister provinces. The 235

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. events which preceded the Revolution having been narrated in another chapter, it is not necessary to return to them here.

Massachusetts, being the principal object of British injustice, was forced inlto the most prominent position, which she maintained with dignity and credit. The other colonies made common cause with her, and the war began in the encounter between the Royal troops and the people at Lexington. The conflict at Concord followed, and the people of the province flew to arms with a rapidity which proved how thoroughly and carefillly they had prepared themselves for/ the maintenance of their rights. During the war which ensued, Massachusetts sustained her reputation for patriotism, bravery, and self-sacrifice. In 1780 a State Constitution was adopted, and John Hancock was elected Governor of the Commonwealth. Ill 1786, the people of the western counties, feeling themselves too poor to pay the heavy taxes levied for the purpose of defraying the State debt, took up arms against the authorities of the Commonwealth. The insurrection was settled after a sharp conflict withl the insurgents, who were forced to submit. The outbreak is known as “Shays’s Rebellion,” in consequence of the insurgents having been led by one Daniel Shays. The Constitution of the United States was ratified by Massachusetts in 1788. Although the State opposed the second war with England, the seamen of Massachusetts were true to the country, and formed a considerable part of the crews of those famous vessels which won the glorious naval victories of the war.

The people of the State, as a whole, however, sustained their authorities in opposing the war, in which they had a deeper interest than they were willing to admit, and throughout the struggle hampered the Federal Government by a most unwise and unpatriotic opposition. The State bore a prominent part in the Hartford Convention, in 1814. In 1820 the Constitution of the Commonwealth was amended, and again in 1857. In 1820
the State consented to the separation of the province of Maine, which was in the same year erected into an i(ndependent establishment, and admitted into the Union as a State. During the late Rebellion, Massachusetts furnished 159,165 men to the army and navy of the United States. CITIES

AND TOWNS. The principal cities and towns are: Cambridge, Lowell, Lynn, Lawrence, Charlestown, Salem, New Be(lford, Newburyport, Nantucket, Gloucester, Marblehead, Plymouth, Provincetown, Worcester, 236 L I

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MASSACHUSETTS. Springfield, Fall River, Chelsea, Taunton, Chicopee, Danvers, Andover, and Haverhill. BOSTON, The capital of the State, and the largest city in New England, is situated on MAassachusetts Bay, 464 miles northeast of Washington, and 236 miles northeast of New York. Latitude 42~

21’ 22”t N.; longitude 71~ 4’ 9” W. It is decidedly one of the most interesting cities in the Union, apart from its being the metropolis of New England and the second commercial city of the Republic. It is divided into 3 sections, Boston proper, East, and South Boston. Boston proper, or the old city, is built upon a peninsula originally covering about 700
acres, but now much enlarged by the addition of “made land.” The surface of this peninsula is broken by 3 hills, which caused the first settlers to call the place Tremont, or Triimountain. The city was originally very narrow at its southern end, but the “Back Bay,” as the shoal water surrounding it is called, is now being filled up with gravel brought from Needham, to an average height of 18 feet above the surface of the water.

This “made land” will eventually double the size of the old city. It is graded as it is formed, and is laid off regularly with broad streets and handsome parks. It is already well built up, and constitutes the handsominest part of Boston. It will ultimately be one of the most splendid cities in America. The old city was originally joined to the main land by a strip of land called “The Neck,” so narrow and low that it afforded scarcely roomi for a single vehicle to pass on firm ground. Now it has been raised and widened, and 4 fine avenues traverse it and connect Boston and Roxbury. South Boston formed a part of Dorchester until 1804, when it was added to Boston. It extends along the south side of the harbor for 2 miles, between Fort Independence and the city proper. It is de voted principally to the residences of the middle classes. This part of the city contains the famous “Dorchester Heights,” the occupation of which by Washington, during the Revolution, compelled the British commander to evacuate Boston. East Boston occupies an island in the harbor, formerly known as ~Noddle’s Island. It is about 650 yards distant from the city proper, with which it is connected by a steam ferry. It contains a number of residences of the middle classes, and is the seat of an important manufacturing interest. Shipbuilding is carried on, and the Grand Junction Railroad terminates here. 237

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Boston proper may be divided into the old and the new city. The old city still preserves its ancient characteristics. The houses are mostly in the style of a century ago; the streets are narrow and crooked, and have a prim, formal air. Wandering through them, one can scarcely help watching to see some old-time Puritan step out from the quaint doorways. The new city is regularly laid out. The streets are broad and straight; they cross each other at right angles, and are lined with magnificent edifices. Everything is modern. Near the southern end of the old city is one of the finest parks in America, known as “Boston Commnon.”

It covers an area of about 50 acres, and is beautifully ornamented.

Adjoining it is a handsome enclosure of 25 acres, used as a botanic garden, and known as the “Public Garden.” Both the “Garden” and “Common”

are surrounded by tasteful iron fences. The fence enclosing the “Common”

is nearly a mile and an eighth in length. The centre of the grounds is occupied by a pretty little pond, from which a fountain sends a fine jet of water into the air. Not far from the pond is an old elmn, supported by metallic bands and enclosed with an iron railing. It is the oldest tree in America, having attained its full growth in 1722. From the pond the grounds rise abruptly to the State House, which is situated on Beacon hill, just outside the enclosure. From this point they slope gently to Charles River, which washes the western shore of the city. Several small but handsome parks lie in various parts of the city. The residences of Boston exhibit considerable taste, and much wealth, but are marked by a sameness peculiar to American cities, and the stores and public buildings are among the finest in the( country. The State House, on Beacon street and Beacon hill, is a handsome, old-style structure, surmounted by a fine dome. It occupies the highest ground in the city, and is the most prominent feature of any view of Boston. Its foundation is 110 feet above the level of the sea. It was commenced in 1795, and completed in 1798, at a cost of $133,330. In 1855 it was enlarged, $243,204 being expended upon it for that purpose. From the dome, a magnificent view of the city, the harbor, and the surrounding country may be had. More than a dozen cities and towns can be seen from it, and in fair weather, the White Mountains of New Hampshire may be dimly discerned. The State Library is located in this building, and contains more than 25,009) volumes. In the rotunda is a collection of flags taken from the Southern forces 238

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iI’ I I Il111 :iiIII\1 III iI-Th;If!-IIl\IIIIII:rI<~IIIII I ?'\

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11

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MASSACHUSETTS. STATE IIOUSE, BOSTON. during the late war, and two cannon captured from the British during the war of 1812-15. I1 the D)oric Hall, on the entrance floor, is Chantrey’s statue of Washington. Statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann ornament the steps facing the “Common.” The Chambers of the Senate and House of Delegates are handsome apart ments.

The Old State House, at the head of State street, is a venerable and interesting building. The General Court sat here until the completion of the new State House, and in the square just below it occurred the famous “Boston Massacre.” The Court House, oil Court street, the Merchants’

Exchange and Post Office, on State street, and the Custom House, at the foot of State street, are fine granite buildings, and among the principal ornaments of the city. The City Hall, on School street, is a magnificent edifice, of light New Hampshire granite. It contains the offices of the City Government, but is badly located, and is almost hidden by the surrounding houses. Just opposite it stands a fine white marble hotel, called the “Parker House.” The Horticultural Hall and the Masonic 239

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THE GIEAT REPUBLIC. FANEUIL IIALL. Temple, on Tremont street, opposite the Common, are amongst the handsomest buildings in the city. They are exhibited to strangers by the Bostonians with a pardonable pride. The former is built of white marble, and the latter of a fine granite. Faneuil Hffall, in Faneuil Hall Square, is decidedly the most interesting building in Boston. It is a large oldfashioned building. The lower part is used as a market, and the upper part as a public hall. It is 129 years old, and was built in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, who presented it to the city for a town hall. It was destroyed by fire in 1761, rebuilt ill 1763, and enlarged to its present dimensions in 1805. It is often called “The Cradle of Liberty,” since the public meetings of the patriots were held here in the exciting days which preceded the Revolution. To the east of the Hall is a fine granite building called the Quincy Market. The upper part comprises one of the largest halls in the Union. The Music Hall, fronting on Winter street and Bumstead place, is one of the best halls in the country, and contains the great organ, one 240

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MASSACHUSETTS. of the most powerful and excellent instruments ever constructed. It was built at Ludwigslust, in Germany. It contains about 6000 pipes and 89 stops. It is 60 feet high, 48 feet broad, and 24 feet deep. It cost $60,000. The literary and scientific institutions of Boston are amongst the best in the country. The Athenceum, situated on Beacon street, is one of the wealthiest organizations in the world. It occupies a splendid freestone building, and possesses a library of 90,000 volumes, besides pamphlets and manuscripts, and fine galleries of paintings and statuary. The Public Library occupies a handsome brick building on Boylston street, erected at a cost of $250,000. It is one of the noblest institutions in the world. Its collection is free to all tax-payers upon certain liberal conditions. It contains nearly 200,000 volumes. The Jliercantile Library, on Summer street, contains over 20,000 volumes. The -Vassachusetts Historical Society possesses one of the best American libraries in the world. It numbers about 13,000 volumes, besides many valuable maps, charts, papers, manuscripts, and other documents. The Young Men’s Christian Association has also a good library. That of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences numbers over 20,000 volumes. The others are the State Library, Social Law Library, and General Theological Library.

Besides these, the city will compare favorably with any in the country, with respect to its private libraries. The other institutions of a literary and scientific character are, the Lowell Institute, the Institute of Technology, the Natural History Society, the American Statistical Society, the Musical, Educational, and Handel and Haydn Societies, and the Boston Academy of Music. The public schools of Boston are amongst the best in the world. There are 254 primary, 20 grammar, and 3 high schools in the city. The school houses alone have cost the city about $2,980,000, and the annual sum expended for their support is about $800,000. Besides these, there are a large number of private schools in the city. The benevolent institutions are numerous and well endowed. The Massachusetts General Hospital, on Charles River, just opposite Charlestown, and the new Free City Hospital, at the “South End,” are fine institutions. The buildings of the latter constitute one of the principal ornaments of the city. The McLean Asylum for the Insane, a branch of the General Hospital, is located at Somerville, two miles northwest of Boston. The Boston Lunatic Asylum is situated in 16 241

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TItE GREAT REFUBLIC. South Boston, and the Pet’kins institttioi and -Massachusetts Asylumn for the Blind is in the same part of the city. Tile Almns House, the House of Industry and -f’o)r)Cation, and the Quarantine Hlospital are on Deer Island. There are over 60 benevolent institutions in the city. We have not the space to name each one, and have given only the most important. About 125 newspapers and periodicals are issued in Boston, 6 of which are daily. Several of the leading literary and scientific journals of the country are published here. There are more than 115
churches in the city, the largest number belonging to the Unitarians.

Christ Church (Episcopal) in Salem street, was erected in 1722, Trinity Church (Episcopal) in 1734, and Kiniig’s Chapel in 1636. The graveyard attached to the last named church contains the remains of many of the Puritan settlers, and is one of the most interesting spots in the city.

The Old South Clhurch, on Washington street, was erected in 1730. The original edifice was of woodl, and was built in 1670. It was one of the famous meeting places of the leaders of the Revolution, and during the occupation of the city by the British, was used as a riding-school. In the front of the tower of the Brattle Street Church, finished in 1773, may be seen a round shot fired from the American batteries at Cambridge during the evacuation of Boston by the British. The clhurell edifices of Boston, as a general rule, are not so handsome as those of the other large cities of the Union. The Cemeteries are Mou?lt Auburn, Forest Hill, and Tfoodlawn. They are very beautiful, Mount Auburn being one of the loveliest in the world. The city is well supplied with theatres and places of amusement. The Boston Theatre is one of the largest and handsomest halls in the world. Boston is connected with the surrounding citie. of Cambridge, Charlestown, and Chelsea, and with South Boston by seven fine bridges. Nearly all are free, and all will eventually become so. A massive causeway unites it with Brookline, now a part of the city. Telegraph lines enter the city from all parts of the Uniion, and there is also a municipal fire alarm and police telegraph connecting the various sections of the corporate limits. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with excellent water from Cochitutiate Lake, 20 miles distant. Lines of horse cars connect all parts of Boston with a common centre at the foot of Tremont street, and with the surrounding towns and villages. 242

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MAISSACHUSETTS. Seven lines of railroad terminate here, extending directly to the Eastern, Middle, Southern, and Western States, and into Canada.

Tile principal hotels are the Parker, Tremont, and Revere Houses, and the American, St. James, and United States Hotels. The wharves are the finest in the United States, and among the best in the world. They would measure an aggregate length of 5 miles, and are lined with splendid warehouses, many of which are built of a rough granite, and are very handsome. The harbor opens to the sea between Point Alderton, on Nantaslket, and Point Shirley, ill Chelsea. The distance across from point to point is about 4
miles. There are three entrances formed by several islands which lie in the lower part. The main channel lies between Castle and Governor’s Islands, and is so narrow that two ships can scarcely sail abreast through it. It is defended by Fort Independence and Fort Winthrop. Fort Winthrop also protects the passage north of Governor’s Island, and Fort Warren, on George’s Island, guards the lower entrance. The harbor covers an area estimated at 75 square miles. It is free from sand-bars, is rarely closed by ice, is sheltered from the sea, and is easy of access. About onehalf of it affords a sure anchorage for vessels of the largest class. It receives the waters of the Charles, Mystic, Neponset, and Manatiquot rivers. Boston is the second commercial city in the Union. In 1864, its total imports were valued at $30,751,595, and its exports at ~21,142,834.

There are about 45 banks in the city, with a capital of about $30,000,000.

The population (including Roxbury and Dorchester) is 250,526. Roxbury was, until a few years since, a distinct city of Norfolk county, but is now a part of the corporation of Boston. At the beginning of the present century it was situated 3 or 4 miles south of Boston, but the intervening distance has since been built up, and the two cities, for some time before their union, joined each other so closely that a stranger could not tell where one begani or the other ended. It contains a number of manufactures of its own, but is occupied principally by the residences of persons doing business in Boston. The city abounds in picturesque views, and many of its localities are very beautiful. It contained a population of about 30,(00
previous to its annexation to Boston. Dorchester, in Norfolk county, has been recently annexed to Bostoin. Like Roxbnry, this city was chiefly occupied with residences. it contains a population of about 15,000. 243

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Boston, as we have said, was originally called Tremont. Its first white inhabitant was the Rev. John Blackstone, who lived here alone until the arrival of Governor Winthrop, in 1630, when a settlement was established here. By the year 1635, quite a thriving village had sprung up, and the Rev. Mr. Blackstone sold his claimn to the peninsula for ~30. The first church was erected in 1632, and the first wharf in 1673. In 1677, the first postmaster was appointed, and in 1704, the first newspaper, called The Boston News Lettei, was issued. Boston was one of the first communities to resist the aggressions of the mother country, and was the scene of many of the most interesting of the events which preceded the Revolution. On the 5th of March, 1770, the ” Boston Massacre” occurred; on the 31st of March, 1774, the harbor of Boston was closed; on the 17th of June, 1775, the battle of Bunker Hill was fought; and in March, 1776, the town was evacuated by the British. Boston was incorporated as a city on the 23d of February, 1822. The following incidents in the early history of Boston will be found interesting by the reader: THE BOSTON MASSACRE. On the 2d of March, 1770, a fray took place in Boston, near Mr. Gray’s ropewalk, between a private soldier of the 29th Regiment and an inhabitant. The former was supported by his comrades, the latter by the rope-makers, till several on both sides were involved in the consequences. On the 5th a more dreadful scene was presented. The soldiers when under arms were pressed upon, insulted, and pelted by a mob armed with clubs, sticks, and snow balls covering stones. They were also dared to fire. In this situation, one of the soldiers, who had received a blow, in resentment fired at the supposed aggressor. This was followed by a single discharge from six others. Three of the inhabitants were killed, and five were dangerously wounded. The town was immediately in commotion.

Such was the temper, force, and number of the inhabitants, that nothing but an engagement to remove the troops out of the town, together with the advice of moderate men prevented the townsmen from falling on the soldiers. The killed were buried in one vault, and in a most respectful manner, in order to express the indignation of the inhabitants at the slaughter of their brethren, by soldiers quartered among them, in violation of their civil liberties. Captain Preston, who commanded the party which fired on the inhabitants, was committed to jail, and afterwards tried. The captain, and six of the men, were acquitted. Two were brought in guilty of manslaughlter. It appeared, on the trial, that the soldiers were abused, insulted, threatened and pelted, before they fired. It was also proved, that only seven guns were fired by the eight prisoners. These circumstances induced the jury to make a favorable verdict. The result of the trial reflected great honor on John Adams (the late President of the United States) and Josiah Quincy, Esqrs. the counsel for the prisoners; and also on the integrity of the jury, who ventured to give an upright verdict, inll defiance of popular opinions. 244

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MASSACHUSETTS. The people, not dismayed by the blood of their neighbors thus wantonly shed, determined no longer to submit to the insolence of military power. Col. Dalrymple, who commanded in Boston, was informed the day after the riot in King street,’ that he must withdraw his troops from the town within a limited term, or hazard the consequences.” The inhabitants of the town assembled in Faneuil Hall, where the subject was discussed with becoming spirit, and the people unanimously resolved that no armed force should be suffered longer to reside in the capital; that if the king’s troops were not immediately withdrawn by their own officers, the Governor should be requested to give orders for their removal, and thereby prevent the necessity of more rigorous steps. A committee from the body was deputed to wait on the Governor, and request him to exert that authority whiiclh the exigencies of the times required from the supreme magistrate. Mr. Samuel Adams, the chairman of the committee, with a pathos and address peculiar to himself, exposed the illegality of quartering troops in the town in thle midst of peace; he urged the apprelhensions of the people, and the fatal consequences that might ensue if their removal was delayed. But no arguments could prevail on Sir. Hutchinson; who either from timidity, or some more censurable cause, evaded acting at all in the businiess, and grounded his refusal on a pretended want of authority.

After which, Col. Dairymple, wishing, to compromise the matter, consented that the 29thi Regiment, more culpable than any other in the late tumult, should be sent to Castle Island. This concession was by no meanis satisfactory; the people, inflexible in their demands, insisted that not one British soldier should be left within tile town; their requisition was reluctantly complied with, and within four days the whole army decamped.

THE DESTRUCTION OF THE TEA IN BOSTON HARBOR. As we have stated in another part of this work, the cargoes of three of the tea ships sent over to Boston in 1773 were destroyed by the citizens, in consequence of the refusal of the Governor to permit the vessels to return to ELngland. The following narrative of the occurence is I)y one of the actors in it-A-Mr.

Hewes: The tea destroyed was contained in three ships, lying near each other, at what was called at that time Griffin’s wharf, and were surrounded by armed ships of w-ar; the commanders of which had publicly declared, that if the rebels, as they were pleased to style tile Bostonians, should not withdraw their apposition to the landing of the tea before a certain day, the 17th day of December, 1773, they should on that day force it on shore, under the cover of their cannon’s mouth. On thile day preceding the 17th, there was a meeting of the citizens of the county of Suffolk, convened at one of the churches in Boston, for the purpose of consultinl on what measures might be considered expedient to prevent the landing of the tea, or secure the people from the collection of the duty.

At that meeting a committee was appointed to wait on Governor Hutchinson, and request him to inform them whether he would take any measures to satisfy the people on the object of the meeting. To the first application of this committee, the Governor told them he would give them a definite answer by five o’clock in the afternoon. At the hour appointed, the committee again repaired to the Governor’s house, and on inquiry found he had gone to his country seat at Milton, a distance of about 245

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. six miles. When the committee returned and informed the meeting of the absence of the Governor, there was a confused murmur among the memher]s, and the dmeeting was immediately dissolved, many of them crying out, Let every man do lhis duty, anld be true to his country; and there was a general hluzza for Griiffin’s wharf. It was now evening, and I immediately dressed myself in the costume of an Indian, equipped with a small hatchlet, which I and my associates denorninated the tomahawk, with which, and a club, after having painted my face and hands with coal dust in the shlop of a blacksmith, I repaired to Griffin’s wharf, where the ships lay that contained the tea. When I first appeared in the street, after being tl)us disguised, I fell in w-ith many who were dressed, equipped and painted as I was, and who fell in with me, and marched in order to the place of our destination. Whlen we arrived at the whlarf, there were three of our number who assumed an authority to direct our operations, to which we readily submitted. Thley divided us into three parties, for the purpose of boarding the three ships which contained the tea at the same time. The name of him who commanded the division to which I was assigned, was Leonard Pitt. The names of the other commanders I never knew. We were inmmediately ordered by the respecctive commanders to board all the ships at the same time, which we promptly olbeyed. Thie commander of the division to whichl I belonged,.s soon as we were on board the ship, appointed me boatswain, andcl ordered me to go to the captain, and demrand of him the keys to the hatches and a dozen candles. I made tlhe demand accordingly, and the captain promptly replied, and delivered the nrticles; but requested me at the same time to do no damage to the ship or rig’iA,’. We then ,(rce ordered )by our comimander to open the hatches, and takle out all tlhe chests of tea and throw thlem overboard, and we immediately proceeded to execute.,is o,letrs ~ first cutltting and splitting the chests w-ithl our tomalhawks, so as thorouglliy to expose them to the eff’cts of the water. In about three hours from the time we went on b)oard, we ha(l tIllus broken and thrown overboard every tea-chlest to be found in the s!rip, while those in the other ships were disposing of the tea in the same way, at the same time. We were surrounded by British armed sips, but no attempt w-as made to resist us. We then quietly retired to our several places of residenlce, without hlaving any conversation with each other, or taking any measures to discover who were our associates; nor do I recollect of our having, had the knowledge of the name of a single individlual concerned in that affair, except that of Leonard Pitt, the commander of my division, wh-o I have menitionedcl.

There appeared to be an understanding that each individual should volunteer his services, keep his own secret, and risk the consequences for himself. No disorder took place during that transaction, and it was observed at that time, that the stillest night ensued that Boston had enjoyed for many months. During the time we were throwing the tea overboard, thllere were several attempts made by some of the citizens of Boston and its vicinity, to carry off sma-ll quantities of it for their family use. To effect that object, they would watch their opportunity to snatch up a handful from the deck, where it became plentifully scattered, and put it into their pockets. One Captain O’Co nner, -whlom I well knew, came on board for that purpose, and( when he supposed he was not noticed, filled his pockets, and also tie lining of his coat. But I lhad detected lhim, and gave information to the captain of what lie was doing. We were ordered( to take him into custody, and just as hle was stepping from the vessel, I seized him by the skirt of his coat, and in attempting to pull him back, I tore it off; hut spring’ing forward, by a rapid effort he made his escape. IIe had 2 4 C)

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MASSACHUSETTS. however to run a gauntlet through the crowd upon the wharf; each one, as he passed, giving him a kick or a stroke. The next day we nailed the skirt of his coat, which I had pulled off, to the whipping post in Charlestown, the place of his residence, with a label upon it, commemorative of the occasion which had thus subjected the proprietor to the popular indignation. Another attempt was made to save a little tea from the ruins of the cargo, by a tall aged man, who wore a large cocked hat and white wig, which was fashionable at that time. He had slightly slipped a little into his pocket, but being detected, they seized him, and taking his hat and wig from his head, threw them, together with the tea, of which they had emptied his pockets, into the water. In consideration of his advanced age, he was permitted to escape, with now and then a slight kick. The next morning, after we had cleared the ships of the tea, it was discovered that very considerable quantities of it was floating upon the surface of the water; and to prevent the possibility of any of it being saved for use, a number of small boats were manned by sailors and citizens, who rowed them into those parts of the harbor wherever the tea was visible, and by beating it with oars and paddles, so thoroughly drenched it, as to render its entire destruction inevitable. CHARLESTOWN, In Middlesex county, is situated on a peninsula immediately north of Boston, is separated from it by the Charles River, and is connected with it by several bridges. It is regularly laid off, and handsomely built. It contains a number of churches, several banks, a large hotel, and the State Prison. It is supplied with water from Mystic Lake, is lighted with gas, and traversed by several street railways. It is extensively engaged in manufactures, but is, after all, merely a suburb of Boston, the majority of its inhabitants pursuing their avocations in that city. It contains an important Navy Yard of the United States, which covers an area of 70 or 80
acres. This is, perhaps, the most complete establishment owned by the Government. The population of Charlestown is 28,323. In the centre of the city stands Breed’s Hill, or, as it is more commonly called, Bunker Hill, the scene of the battle of the 17th of June, 1775. The site of the old American redoubt is enclosed with a handsome iron railing, and marked by a magnificent shaft of granite 220 feet high, 31 feet square at the base, and 15 at the top. It is ascended by means of an inner winding stairway, which leads to a chamber immediately at the top. In this chamber are two old cannon, which, with two others, constituted all the artillery owned by the Americans at the beginning of the Revolution. The corner stone of this monument was laid by Lafayette, on the 17th of June, 1825, in presence of an immense concourse of citizens. 247

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. BUNKER HILL MiONU3ENT. The following is a description of the struggle which the shaft com nmemnorates: After the affair of Lexington and Concord, on the 19thl of April, 1775, the people, animated by one common impulse, flew to arms in every direction. The husbandman changed his plouglishare for a musket; and about 15,000 men, 10,000 from Massachusetts, and the remainder from New Hampshire, Rhode Island, and Connecticut, assembled under General Ward in the environs of Boston, then occupied by 10,000 highly disciplined and well equipped British troops, under the command of Generals Gage, Howe, Clinton, Burgoyne, Pigotand others. Fearing an intention, on the part of the British, to occupy the important heights at Charlestown and Dorchester, which would enable them to command the surrounding country, Colonel Prescott was detached, by his own desire, from the American camp at Cambridge, on the evening of the 16thl of June, 1775, with about 1000 militia, mostly of Massaclhusetts, including 120 men of Putnam’s regiment from Connecticut, and one artillery company, to Bunker Hill, with a view to occupy and fortify that post. At this hill the detachment made a short halt, but concluded to advance still nearer the British, and accordingly took possession of Breed’s Hill, a position which commanded the whole inner harbor of Boston. Here, about midnight, they commenced throwing up a redoubt, which they completed, notwithstanding every possible effort from the British ships and batteries to prevent them, about noon the next day. 248

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MASSACHUSETTS. So silently had the operations been conducted through the night, that the British had not the most distant notice of the design of the Americans, until daybreak presented to their view thle half-formed battery and daring stand made against them. A dreadful cannonade, accompanied with shells, was immediately commenced from the British battery at Copps’ Hill, and the ships of war and floating batteries stationed in Charles River. The break of day, on the 17th of June, 1775, presented a scene, which, for daring and firmness, could never be surpassed; 1000 unexperienced militia, in the attire of their various avocations, without discipline, almost without artillery and bayonets, scantily supplied with ammunition, and wholly destitute of provisions, defying the power of the formidable British fleet and army, determined to maintain the liberty of their soil, or moisten that soil with their blood.

Without aid, however, from the main body of the army, it seemed impossible to maintain their position; the men having been without sleep, toiling through the night, and destitute of the necessary food required by nature, had become nearly exhausted. Representations were repeatedly made, through the morning, to headquarters, of the necessity of reenforcements and supplies. Major Brooks, the late revered Governor of Massachusetts, who commanded a battalion of minute-men at Concord, set out for Cambridge about 9 o’clock on foot (it being impossible to procure a horse), soliciting succor; but as there were two other points exposed to the British, Roxbury and Cambridge, then the headquarters, at which place all the little stores of the army were collected, and the loss of which would be incalculable at that moment, great fears were entertained lest they should march over the neck to Roxbury, and attack the camp there, or pass over the bay in boats (there being at that time no artificial avenue to connect Boston with the adjacent country), attack the headquarters, and destroy the stores: it was therefore deemed impossible to afford any reenforcement to Charlestown Heights, till the movements of the British rendered evidence of their intention certain. The fire from the Glasgow frigate and two floating batteries in Charles River, were wholly directed with a view to prevent any communication across the istlhmus that connects Charlestown with the mainland, which kept up a continued shower of missiles, and rendered the communication truly dangerous to those who should attempt it. When the intention of the British to attack the heights of Charlestown became apparent, the remainder of Putnam’s regiment, Colonel Gardiner’s regiment (both of which, as to numbers, were very imperfect), and some New Hampshire militia, marched, notwithistanding the heavy fire, across the neck, for Clharlestown Heights, where they arrived, much fatigued, just after the British had moved to the first attack. The British commenced crossing the troops firom Boston about 12 o’clock, and landed at Alorton’s Point, southeast from Breed’s Hill. At 2 o’clock, from the best accounts that can be obtained, they landed between 3000 and 4000
men, under the immediate command of General Howe, and formed, in apparently inlvincible order, at the base of the hill. The position of the Americans, at this time, was a redoubt on the summit of the height, of about 8 rods square, and a breastwork extending, on the left of it, about 70 feet down the eastern declivity of the hill. This redoubt and breastwork was commanded by Prescott in person, who had superintended its construction, and who occupied it with the MIassaclhusetts militia of his detachment, and a part of Little’s regiment, which had arrived about 1
o’clock. They were dreadfully deficient in equipments and ammnunition, had been toiling incessantly fbr many 249

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. hours, and, it is said by some accounts, even then were destitute of provisions. A little to the eastward of the redoubt, and northerly to the rear of it, was a rail fence, extending almost to MTystic River; to this fence another had been added during the night and forenoon, and some newly mown grass thrown against them, to afford something like a cover to the troops. At this fence the 120 Con necticut militia were posted. Tile movements of the British made it evident their intention was to march a strong column along the margin of the M,ystic, and turn the redoubt on the north, while another column attacked it in front; accordingly, to prevent this design, a large force became necessary at the breastworkl and rail fence. The whole of the reeinforcements that arrived, amounting in all to 800 or 1000 men, were ordered to this point by General Putnam, who had been extremely active throughout the night and morning, and had accompanied the expedition. At this moment thousands of persons of both sexes had collected on the church steeples, Beacon Hill, house tops, and every place in Boston and its neighbor hood, where a view of the battle ground could be obtained, viewing, with painful anxiety, the movements of the combatants; wondering, yet admiring the bold stand of the Americans, and trembling at the thoughts of the formidable army marshalled in array against them. Before 3 o’clock the British formed, in two columns, for the attack; one column, as had been anticipated, moved along the Mystic River, with the intention of taking the redoubt in the rear, while the other advanced up the ascent directly in front of the redoubt, where Prescott was ready to receive them. General Warren, President of the Provincial Colngress and of the Committee of Safety, who had been appointed but a few days before a major-general of the Massachusetts troops, had volunteered on the occasion as a private soldier, and was in the redoubt with a musket, animating the men by his influence and example to the most dairing determination. Orders were given to the Americans to reserve their fire till the enemy advanced sufficiently near to make their aim certain. Several volleys were fired by the British withi but little success; and so long a time had elapsed, and the British allowed to advance so near the Americans without their fire being returned, that a doubt arose whether or not the latter intended to give battle; but the fatal moment soon arrived: when the British had advanced to within about 8
rods, a sheet of fire was poured upon them, and continued a short time with such deadly effect that hundreds of the assailants lay weltering in their blood, and the remainder retreated in dismay to the point where they had first landed. From daylighit to the time of the Britishl advancing on the works, an incessant fire had been kept up on the Americans from the ships and batteries-this fire was now renewed with increased vigor. After a short time, the British officers had succeeded in rallying their men, and again advanced, in the same order as before, to the attack. Thinking to divert the attention of the Americans, the town of Charlestown, consisting of 500 wooden buildings, was now set on fire by the Britishl; the roar of the flames, the crashing of falling timber, the awful appearance of desolation presented, the dreadful shrieks of the dying and N ounded in the last attack, added to the knowledge of the formidable force advancing against them, combined to form a scene apparently too much for men bred in the quiet retirement of domestic life to sustain. But the stillness of death reigned within the American works, and nought could be seen but the deadly presented weapon, ready to hurl fresh destruction .0 5

0

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MASSACtIUSETTS. on the assailants. The fire of the Americans was again reserved till the British came still nearer than before, when the same unerring aim was taken, and the British shrunk, terrified, from before its fatal effects, flying, completely routed a second time, to the banks of the river, and leaving, as before, the field strewed with their wounded and their dead. Again the ships and batteries renewed their fire, and kept a continual shower of balls on the works. Notwithlstanding every exertion, the British officers found it impossible to rally the men for a third attack; one-thlird of their comrades had fallen; and finally it was not till a re;nforcement of more than 1000 fresh troops, with a strong park of artillery, had joined them from Boston, that they could be induced to form anew. In the mean time every effort was made on the part of the Americans to resist a third attack; General Putnam rode, notwithstanding the heavy fire of the ships and batteries, several times across the neck, to induce the militia to advance; but it was only a few of the resolute and brave who would encounter the storm. The British receiving reinforcements from their formidable main body-the town of Charlestown presenting one wide scene of destruction-the probability the Americans must shortly retreat-the shower of balls pouring over the neck-presented obstacles too appalling for raw troops to sustain, and embodied too much danger to allow them to encounter. Yet, notwithstanding all this, the Americans on the heights were elated with their success, and waited with coolness and determination the now formidable advance of the enemy. Once more the British, aided by their reinforcements, advanced to the attack, but with great skill and caution; their artillery was planted on the eastern declivity of the hill, between the rail fence and the breastwork, where it was directed along the line of the Americans, stationed at the latter place, and against the gateway on the northeastern corner of the redoubt; at the same time they attacked the redoubt on the southeastern and southwestern sides, and entered it with fixed bayonets. The slaughter on their advancing was great; but the Americans, not having bayonets to meet them on equal terms, and their powder being exhausted, now slowly retreated, opposing and extricating tllhemselves from the British with the butts of their pieces. The column that advanced against the rail fence was received in the most dauntless mannler. The Americans fought with spirit and heroism that could not be surpassed, alnd, had their ammunition held out, would have secured to themselves a third time the palm of victory; as it was, they effectually prevented the enemy from accomplishing his purpose, which was to turn their flank, and cut the whole of the Americans off; but having become perfectly exhausted, this body of the Americans also slowly retired, retreating in much better order than could possibly have been expected from undisciplined troops, and those in the redoubt having extricated themselves from the host of bayonets by which they had been surrounded. The British followed the Americans to Bunker Ilill, but some fresh militia at this moment coming iup to the aid o,f the latter, covered their retreat. The Americans crossed Charlestown neck about 7
o’clock, having in the last twenty hours performed deeds which seemed almost impossible. Some of them procee(led to Cambridge, and others posted themselves quietly on Winter and Prospeet lhills. From the most accurate statements that can be found, it appears the Britislh must have had nearly 5000 soldiers in the battle; between 3000 and 4000 having 251

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. first landed, and the reeinforcement amounting to over 1000. The Americans, throughout the whole day, did not have 2000 men on the field. The slaughter on the side of the British was immense, having had nearly 1500 killed and wounded, 1200 of whom were either killed or mortally wounded; the Americans about 400. Had the commanders at Charlestown Heights become terrified on being cut off from the main body and supplies, and surrendered their army, or even retreated before they did, from the terrific force that opposed them, where would now have been that ornament and example to the world, the Independence of the United States? When it was found that no reinforcements were to be allowed them, the most sanguine man on that field could not have even indulged a hope of success, but all determined to deserve it; and although they did not obtain a victory, their example was the cause of a great many. The first attempt on the commence ment of a war is held up, by one party or the other, as an example to those that succeed it, and a victory or defeat, though not, perhaps, of any great magnitude in itself, is most powerful and important in its effects. Had such conduct as was here exhibited been in any degree imitated by the immediate commander in the first military onset in the last war, how truly different a result would have been effected, from the fatal one that terminated that unfortunate expedition.

From the immense superiority of the British, at this stage of tile war, having a large army of highly disciplined and well equipped troops, and the Americans possessing but few other munitions or weapons of war, and but little more discipline, than what each man possessed when he threw aside his plough and took the gun that hlie had kept for pastime or for profit, but now to be employed for a different purpose, from off the hooks that held it,-perhaps it would have been in their power, by pursuing the Americans to Cambridge, and destroying the few stores that had been collected there, to inflict a blow which could never have been recovered from; but they were completely terrified. The awful lesson they had just received filled them with horror; and the blood of 1500 of their companions, who fell on that day, presented to them a warning which they could never forget. From the battle of Bunker Hill sprung the protection and the vigor that nurtured the tree of liberty, and to it, in all probability, may be ascribed our independence and glory. The name of the first martyr that gave his life for the good of his country on that day, in the importance of the moment, was lost; else a monument, in connection with the gallant Warren, should be raised to his memory. The manner of his death was thus related by Colonel Prescott: ” The first man who fell in the battle of Bunker Hill was Willed by a cannon ball which struck his head. He was so near me that my clothes were besmeared with his blood and brains, which I wiped off, in some degree, with a handful of fresh earth.

The sight was so shocking to many of the men, that they left their posts and ran to view him. I ordered them back, but in vain. I then ordered him to be buried instantly. A subaltern officer expressed surprise that I should allow him to be buried without having prayers said; I replied, this is the first man that has been killed, and the only one that will be buried to-day. I put him out of sight that the men may be kept in their places. God only knows who, or how many of us, will fall before it is over. To your post, my good fellow, and let each man do his duty.” The name of the patriot who thus fell is supposed to have been POLLARD, a young man belonging to Billerica. He was struck by a cannon ball, thrown from the line-of-battle ship Somerset. 252

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MASSACHIIUSETTS. CAMBRIDGE, In Middlesex county, lies west-northwest of Boston, and is connected with it by two bridges. It is a beautiful city.

The streets are broad, and are shaded with lofty elms, and the houses are mostly of wood, and stand back amidst a profusion of tasteful shrubbery.

The corporate limits contain 24 churches, several banks, and an excellent hotel. There are a number of manufacturing establishments in the city, but it is principally occupied with private residences. The population is 39,634. Cambridge is the seat of Harvard University, one of the oldest and most important institutions of learning in the country. It is about three miles from Boston, and was founded in 1638, by the Rev. John Harvard. The University embraces, besides its collegiate department, schools of law, medicine, and theology. The buildings are 15 in number, and are all located in Cambridge, except the Medical School, which is in Boston. They are very handsome edifices, and are surrounded by tasteful grounds.

LOWELL, In Middlesex county, is the second city in the State, and one of the most important manufacturing places in America. It is situated at the confluence of the Merrimac and Concord rivers, about 8 miles south of the New Hampshire line, and 25 miles northwest of Boston. The site is hilly, but the city is regularly laid out, and the streets are broad, are lighted with gas, and are traversed by a horse railway. Some of the buildings are handsome. The Court House is the principal edifice. The city contains 7
banks, 4 savings institutions, 22 churches, and 5 newspaper establishments. The population is 40,928. As a manufacturing city, Lowell has no rival. Early in the present century some Newburyportf merchants built a canal at-this place as a means of floating lumber around Pawtucket Falls in the Merrimac River. In 1821, a party of Boston merchants bought up this canal and the adjoining lands, for the purpose of utilizing the immense waterpower furnished by the falls. They enlarged the canal to a width of 60 feet and a depth of 8 feet, and constructed mill races and feeders. They then laid out the town, and offered mill sites and town lots for sale. Their venture met with such success, that in 1846 it became necessary to construct an additional canal, 100 feet wide, 16 feet deep, and with sides of mason work. 253

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. To-(day, the town projected by them has no superior in its specialit,. In 1864, there were 13 manufacturing corporations in Lowell, with an aggregate capital of $13,850,000, engaged in operating 54
mnlills and factories. Previous to the war there were 12,384 operatives employed in these mills, divided as follows: males 3979, females 8405.

Cotton and woollen goods, paper, cotton and paper machinery, locomotives, and machinists’ tools are the principal products. In 1862, the celebrated English writer, Anthony Trollope, visited Lowell and its mills. He gives the following as the result of his observations: That which most surprises an Eng,lish visitor, on going through the mills at Lowell, is the personal appearance of the men and women who work at them. As there are twice as many women as there are men, it is to them that the attention is chiefly called. They are not only better dressed, cleaner, and better mounted in every respect than the girls employed at manufactories in Englalnd, but they are so infinitely superior as to make a stranger immediately perceive that some very strong cause must have created the difference. W~e all know the class of young women whom we generally see serving behind counters in the shops of our larger cities. They are neat, well dressed, careful, especially about their hair, composed in their manner, and sometimes a little supercilious in the propriety of their demeanor. It is exactly the same class of young women that one sees in the factories at Lowell. They are not sallow, nor dirty, nor ragged, nor rough. They have about them no signs of want, or of low culture. MIany of us also know the appearance of those girls who work in the factories in England; and I think it will be allowed that a second glance at them is not waniting to show that they are in every respect inferior to the young women who attend our shops. The matter, indeed, requires no argument. Alny young woman at a shop would be insulted by being asked whether she had worked at a factory. The difference with regard to the men at Lowell is quite as strong, though not so striking. Workingmen do not show their status in the world by their outward appearance as readily as women; and, as I have said before, the number of the women greatly exceeded that of the men. One would of course be disposed to say that the superior condition of the workers must have been occasioned by superior wages; and this, to a certain extent, has been the cause. But the higher payment is At the chief cause. WVomen’s wages, including all that they receive at the Lowell factories, average about 14s. a week, which is, I takle it, fully a third more than women can earn in 3Ianchlester, or did earn before the loss of the American cotton began to tell upon them. But if wages at iManchlester were raised to the Lowell standard, the Ianchester women would not be clothed, fed, cared for, and educated like the Lowell women. The fact is, that the workmen and the workwomen at Lowell are not exposed to the chances of an open labor market. They are taken in, as it were, to a philanthropical manufacturing college, and then looked after and regulated more as girls and lads at a great seminary, than as hands by whose industry profit is to be made out of capital. This is all very nice and pretty at Lowell, but I am afraid it could not be done at M’anclhester. 254

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MASSACHIUSETTS. Thus Lowell is the realization of a commercial Utopia. Of all the statements made in the little book which I have quoted, I cannot point out one which is exaggerated, much less false. I should not call the place elegant; in other respects I am disposed to stand by the book.

Before I had made any inquiry into the cause of the apparent comfort, it struck me at once that some great effort at excellence was being made. I went into one of the discreet matrons’ residences; and, perhaps, may give but an indifferent idea of her discretion, when I say that she allowed me to go into the bed-rooms. If you want to ascertain the inner ways or habits of life of any man, woman, or child, see, if it be practicable to do so, his or her bed-room. You will learn more by a minute’s glance round that holy of holies, than by any conversation. Looking-glasses and such like, suspendedl dresses, and toilet-belongings, if taken without notice, cannot lie or even exaggerate. The discreet matron at first showed me rooms only prepared for use, for at the period of my visit Lowell was by no means full; but she soon became more intimate withl me, and I went through the upper part of the house. -Iy report must be altogether in her favor and in that of Lowell. Everything was cleanly, well ordered, and feminine. There was not a bed on which any woman need have hesitated to lay herself if occasion required it. I fear that this cannot be said of the lodgings of the manufacturing classes at MAanchester. The boarders all take their meals together. As a rule, they have meat twice a day. HIot meat for dinner is with tlhem as much a matter of course, or probably more so, than with any Englishman or woman who may read this book. For in the States of America regulations on this matter are much more rigid than with us. Cold meat is rarely seen, and to live a day without meat would be as great a privation as to pass a nighlt without bed. The rules for the guidance of these boardinghouses are very rigidcl. The houses themselves belong to the corporations, or different manufacturing establishments, and the tenants are altogether in the. power of the managers. None but operatives are to be taken in. The tenants are answerable for improper conduct. The doors are to be closed at ten o’clock. Any boarders who do not attend divine worship are to be reported to thle managers. The yards and walks are to be kept clean, and snow removed at once; and the inmates must be vaccinated, etc., etc. It is expressly stated by the Hamilton Company-and I believe by all the companies-tllat no one shall be employed who is habitually absent from public worship on Sunday, or who is known to be guilty of immorality. It is stated that the average wages of the women are two dollars, or eight shlillings, a week, besides their board. 1 found when I was there that from three dollars to three and a half a week were paid to the women, of which they paid, one dollar and twenlty-five cents for their board. As this would not fully cover the expense of their keep, twentyfive cents a week for each was also paid to the boardinghouse keepers by the mill agents. This substantially came to the same thing, as it left the two dollars a week, or eight shillings, with the girls over and above their cost of living. The board included washing, lights, food, bed, and attendance-leaving a surplus of eight shillings a week for clothes and saving. Now let me ask any one acquainted with Manchester and its operatives, whether that is not Utopia realized. Factory girls, for slwhom every comfort of life is secured, with 211. a year over for saving and dress! One sees the failing, however, at a moment. It is Utopia. Any Lady Bountiful can tutor three or four peasants and make them luxuriously comforta)le. B3ut no Lady Bountiful can give luxurious comfort to half a dozen parishes. Lowell is now nearly 40 years old, and 255

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. contains but 40,000 inhabitants. From the very nature of its corporations it cannot spread itself. Chicago, which has grown out of nothing in a much shorter period, and which has no factories, has now 120,000 inhabitants. Lowell is a very wonderful place and shows what philanthropy can do; but I fear it also shows what philanthropy cannot do… One cannot but be greatly struck by the spirit of philanthropy in which the system of Lowell was at first instituted. It may be presumed that men who put their money into such an undertaking did so with the object of commercial profit to themselves; but in this case that was not their first object. I think it may be taken for granted that when Messrs.

Jackson and Lowell went about their task, their grand idea was to place factory work upon a respectable footing-to give employment in mills which should not be unhealthy, degrading, demoralizing, or hard in its circumstances. Throughout the Northern States of America the same feeling is to be seen. Good and thoughtful men have been active to spread education, to maintain health, to make work compatible with comfort and personal dignity, and to divest the ordinary lot of man of the sting of that curse which was supposed to be uttered when our first father was ordered to eat his bread in the sweat of his brow. One is driven to contrast this feeling, of which on all sides one sees such ample testimony, with that sharp desire for profit, that anxiety to do a stroke of trade at every turn, that acknowledged necessity of being smiart, which we must own is quite as general as the nobler propensity. I believe that both phases of commercial activity may be attributed to the same characteristic. MIen in trade in America are not more covetous than tradesmen in England, nor probably are they more generous or philanthropical. But that which they do, they are more anxious to do thoroughly and quickly. They desire that every turn taken shall be a great turn-or at any rate that it shall be as great as possible. They go ahead either for bad or good with all the energy they have. In the institutions at Lowell I think we may allow that the good has very much prevailed. I went over two of the mills, those of the 3[errimiac corporation and of the Massachusetts. At the former the printing establishment only was at work; the cotton mills were closed. I hardly know whether it will interest any one to learn that something under half a million yards of calico are here printed annually. At the Lowell Bleachery fifteen million yards are dyed annually. The 3Ierrimac Cotton Mills were stopped, and so had the other mills at Lowell been stopped, till some short time before my visit. Trade had been bad, and there had of course been a lack of cotton. I was assured that no severe suffering had been created by this stoppage. The greater number of hands had returned into the country-to the farms from whence they had come; and though a discontinuance of workl and wages had of course produced hardship, there had been no actual privation-no hunger and want. Those of the work-people who had no homes out of Lowell to which to betake themselves, and no means at Lowell of living, had received relief before real suffering had begun. I was assured, with something of a smile of contempt at the question, that there had been nothing like hlunger.

But, as I said before, visitors always see a great deal of rose color, and should endeavor to allay the brilliancy of the tint with the proper amount of human shading. But do not let any visitor mix in the browns with too heavy a hand! 256

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I’ \ (II,’ 1I I i I \',:'I,,, I I A 1 S.

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MASSACHUSETTS. LYNN, In Essex county, 11 miles north of Boston, is charmingly situated on the northeast shore of Massachusetts Bay. It is regularly laid off, but does not compare with the generality of New England cities ill appearance. It contains about 50 public schools, 2
newspaper offices, 21 churches, several banks, and a free library. The population is about 28,233. Lynn is the principal seat of the manufacture of boots and shoes in this country. It contains 175 establishments, employing 17,200 persons, more than onehalf being females. About 10,000,000 pairs of ladies and misses’ shoes are made here annually. They are valued at about $14,000,000. Besides these, a number of other manufactures are produced here. LAWRENCE, In Essex county, 26 miles north of Boston, and 12 miles from Lowell, is an important manufacturing city.

It is built along both sides of the Merrimac River, which is made to fall over an artificial dam 28 feet high. The water is conducted from the head of this dam to the mills by a canal. The city is well laid off, and contains several fine buildings, the City Hall being the handsomest. The centre is occupied by a “Common” covering an area of 171 acres. There are 13 churches, a number of excellent free schools, 2 newspaper offices, several libraries, and 2 banks in Lawrence. The population is 28,921. The city contains over 30 manufacturing establishments, with a capital of about $8,000,000. Cottons, woollens, machinery, wroughtiron goods, and paper, are the leading manufactures. Lawrence is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water which may be used in case of fire; but for ordinary purposes, cisterns and wells are used. WORCESTER, In Worcester county, 45
miles westsouthwest of Boston, is the thlird city in the State. Six railway lines centre here, making it within easy reach of all parts of the Union. It is situated in the midst of a beautiful country, and is regularly laid out and handsomely built. The streets are broad, are planted with trees, and adorned with a ilimbl)er of lHandsome edifices.

Main street, the principal thloroutlh 1I 257

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THE GREG 1T REPUBLIC. A VIEW FRO3L GREE’NFII!T), ASS fare, is nearly 2
miles long, and is one of the finest streets in the State. It contains the principal stores, hotels, churches, and public buildiings. The city is lighted with gas, and is traversed by a street railway. It contains 18
churches, 7 banks, 4 savings banks, 4 newspaper offices, several libraries containing an aggregate of 60,000 voluimes, and a number of private and pul)lic schools. The State has a Lunatic Asylum here, which is provided with handsome buildings and grounds. Worcester is extensively engaged in manufactures. The leading articls are cotton and woollen goods, steel and iron wire, mechanics’ tools, agricultural impllements, machinery of all kinds, railroad iron, casti,ngs, fire-ariims, and boots and shoes. The population is 41,105. 258 I

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MIASSACHUSETTS. SPRINGFIELD, In Hampden county, on the banks of the Connecticut River, 98 miles southwest of Boston, and( 26 miles north of Hartford, Conn., is the largest city in Western Massachusetts. It is handsomely built, and is one of the most attractive cities in New England.

The principal thoroughfare, Main street, is nearly 3 miles long. The city contains many fine buildings, 12 or 13 churches, 8 or 9 banks, several good hotels, and 5 newspaper establishments. It is lighted with gas, an(l supplied with water. The Connecticut is navigable to this place during the season of navigation. Four lines of railway centre here, and lhave added very much to the prosperity of the city. The United States Arsenal is one of the principal features of the place, and the most important establishment belonging to the Government. About 2800 hands are employed in the various departments of the Arsenal. Thle buil(liugs are principally of brick, and are arranged around a square of 20 acres. They are very handsome, and being situated on rising ground, commiand a fine view of tl-he city and surrounding country. Springfield is actively engaged in manufactures. Paper, iron goods, locomotives, railroad cars, machinery, pistols, and woollen goods, are the principal articles. The population is 26,703. TttUiton, in Bristol county, contains 18,629 inhabitants. TFatl River, in the same county, contains 26,786 inhabitants. Botll are important manufacturing cities. Salemi, in Essex county, has a fine harbor, and is a city of some commercial importance. It has a population of 24,117, and is noted as the scene of the famous witchcraft delusion.

Plyio?tthU, in the county of the same name, is extensively engaged in mnanufactures and the fisheries. It is the oldest town in New England, and is the place where the Pilgrimn Fathlers first landed after their voyage from England. MISCELLANIES. ARRIVAL, OF THE PILGRIMS AT CAPE CO). On the 10thl of Novebl)er, 1620, the ilayflower, with her precious freight of ecaigrants, reached the harbor of Cape Cod. The charter whichl tlhey had brought with them firom England, gave them permiission to settle within the d(lominions of the South Virginia Company, and w-as wvorthlless in the reg,ion in wAlichl they had arrived. In this situation they determined to take the mattter into their own hands. A government wvas organized, a covenant diawn ulp and silgned l)y all on board, and John Carver was elected Governor. 259

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Government having been thus regularly established, on a truly republican principle, sixteen armed men were sent on shore, as soon as the weather would permit, to fetch wood and make discoveries. They returned at night with a boat load of juniper wood, and made report ” that they found the land to be a narrow neck, having the harbor on one side, and the ocean on the other; that the ground consisted of sandlills, like the Downs in Holland; that in some places the soil was black earth’a spit’s depth;’ that the trees were oak, pine, sassafras, juniper, birch, holly, ash, and walnut; that the forest was open and without underwood; that no inhabitants, houses, nor fresh water were to be seen.” This account was as much as could be collected in one Saturday’s afternoon. The next day they rested. While they lay in this harbor, during the space of five weeks, they saw great flocks of seafowl and whales every day playing about them. The master and mate, who had been acquainted with the fisheries in the northern seas of Europe, supposed that they might in that time have made oil to the value of 3000 or 4000. It was too late in the season for cod; and, indeed, they caught none but small fish near the shore, and shellfish. The margin of the sea was so shallow, that they were obliged to wade ashore, and the weather being severe, many of them took colds and coughs, which in the course of the winter proved mortal. On M1onday, the 13th of November, the women went ashore under guard to wash their clothes, and the men were impatient for a farther discovery. The sliallop, which had been cut down and stowed between decks, needed repairing, in which 17 days were employed. While this was doing, they proposed that excursions might be made on foot. M-uch caution was necessary in an enterprise of this kind, in a new and savage country.

After consultation and preparation, 16 men were equipped with musket and ammunition, sword and corslet, under the command of Captain Miles Standish, who had William Bradford, Stephen Ilopkins, and Edward Tilly for his council of war. After many instructions given, they were rather permitted than ordered to go, and the time of their absence was limited to two days. When they had travelled one mile by the shore, they discovered five or six of the natives, who, on sight of them, fled. They attempted to pursue, and, lighting on their tracks, followed them till night; but the thickets through which they had to pass, the weight of their armor, and thle debility after a long voyage, made them an unequal match, in point of travelling, to these nimble sons of nature. They rested at length by a spring, which afforded themin the first refreshing drauglht of American water. The discoveries made in this march were few, but novel and amusing.

In one place they found a deer trap, made by the bending of a yoting tree to the earth, with a noose under ground covered with acorns. lr.

Bradford’s foot was caulght in the trap, from which his companions disengaged him, and they were all entertained with the ingenuity of the device. In another place they came to an Indian buryingground, and in one of the graves they found a mortar, an earthen pot, a bow and arrows, and other implements, all which they very carefully replaced, because they would not be guilty of violating the repositories of the dead. But when they found a cellar, carefully lined with bark and covered with a heap of sand, in which about four bushels of seed-corn in ears were well secured, after reasoning on the morality of the action, they took as much of the corn as they could carry, intending, when they should find the owners, to pay them to their satisfaction. On the third day they arrived, weary and welcome, where the ship 260 41

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MASSACHUSETTS. lay, and delivered their corn into the common store. The company resolved to keep it for seed, and to pay the natives the full value when they should have an opportunity. When the shallop was repaired and rigged, 24 of the company ventured on a second excursion to the same place, to make a farther discovery, having Captain Jones for their commander, with 10 of his seamen and the ship’s long-boat. The vwind being high and the sea rough, the shallop came to anchor under the land, while part of the company waded on shore fr’om the long-boat, and travelled, as they supposed, six or seven miles, having directed the shallop to follow them the next morning. The weather was very cold, with snow, and the people, having no shelter, took such colds as afterwards proved fatal to many. THE FIRST SABBATH IN NEW ENGLAND. The 10th of December, 1620, was the first Christian Sabbath in New England. The ” M1ayflower,” a name now immortal, had crossed the ocean. It had borne its hundred passengers over the vast deep, and after a perilous voyage, it had reached the bleak shores of New England in the beginning of winter. The spot which was to furnish a home and a burial-place, was now to be selected. The shallop was unslhipped, but needed repairs, and 16 weary days elapsed before it was ready for service. Amidst ice and snow, it was then sent out, with some half a dozen Pilgrims, to find a suitable place where to land. The spray of the sea, says the historian, froze on them, and made their clothes like coats of iron. Five days they wandered about, searching in vain for a suitable landing-place. A storm came on, the snow and rain fell; the sea swelled; the rudder broke; the mast and the sail fell overboard. In this storm and cold, without a tent, a house, or the shelter of a rock, the Christian Sabbath approached-the day which they regarded as holy unto God-a day on which they were not to ”’ do any work.” What should be done?

As the evening before the Sabbath drew on, they pushed over the surf, entered a fair sound, sheltered themselves under the lee of a rise of land, kindled a fire, and on that island they spent the day in the solemn worship of their Maker. On the next day their feet touched the rock now sacred as the place of the landing of the Pilgrims. Nothing more strikingly marks the character of this people, than this act. The whole scene-the cold winter-the raging sea-the driving storm-the houseless, homeless island-the families of wives and children in the distance, weary with their voyage and impatient to land-and yet, the sacred observance of a dlay which they kept from p7-inciple, and not from mere feeling, or because it was a form of religion, shows how deeply imbedded true religion is in the soul, and how little it is affected by surrounding difficulties.

THE FIRST CRIMES IN NEW ENGLAND. The first offence punished in the colony was that of John Billington, who was clarged wAithl contempt of the captain’s lawful commands, while on board the iMayflow-er. He was tried by the whole company, and was sentenced to have his neck and heels tied together; but on humbling himself, and craving pardon, hlie was released.

This same Billington, however, in 1630, waylaid and murdered one John Newcomenl, for some affront, and was tried and executed in Octol-)er of that year. Governor Bradford says ” We took all due means about his trial; hlie w as 261

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. found guilty, both by grand and petit jury; and we took advice of Mr. Winthllrop and others, the ablest gentlemen in the Massachusetts Bay, who all concurred with us, that he otuglt to die, and the land be purged from blood.” The first duel and second offence that took place in the colony was between two servants of Stephen Hlopkins.

They fought with sword and dagger, and were both slightly wounded. They were arraigned for the offence, on the 18th June, 1621, before the Governor and company for trial, and were sentenced to have their heads and feet tied together, and to remain in that position for 24 hours. After an hlour’s endurance of this novel punishment, these men of valor begged for a release, and the Governor set them at liberty. THE SALEM WI’TlCHCRAFrT.

[Froom Goverinoi Htirtchilson’s History of Massach7usetts.] The great noise which the New England witclhcrafts made tlhroughlout the English dominions, proceeded more fiom the general panic with whiclh all sorts of persons were seized, and an expectation that the contagion would spread to all parts of the country, than from the number of persons who were executed, more having been put to death in a single county in England, in a short space of time, than have suffered in all New England fiom the first settlement until the present time. Fifteen years had passed, before we find any mention of witchcraft among the English colonists. The Indians were supposed to be worshippers of the Devil, and their powows to be wizards. The first suspicion of witchcraft, among the Englishl, was about the year 1645; at Springfield, upon Connecticut River, several persons were supposed to be under an evil hand, and among the rest two of the minister’s children. Great pains were taken to prove the facts upon several persons charged with the crime, but either the nature of the evidence was not satisfactory, or the fraud was suspected, and so no person was convicted until the year 1650, when a poor wretch,- Mary Oliver, probably weary of her life from the general reputation of being a witch, after long examination was brought to confession of her guilt, but I do not find that she was executed. Whilst this inquiry was making, Margaret Jones was executed at Charlestown; and Mr. Hale mentions a woman at Dorchester, and another at Cambridge about the same time, who all at their death asserted their innocence. Soon after, Hugh Parsons was tried at Springfield and escaped death. In 1655, Mrs. Hibbins, the assistant’s widow, was hlanged at Boston. In 1662, at Hartford in Connecticut (about 30 miles from Springfield, upon the same river), one Ann Cole, a young woman who lived next door to a Dutch family, and, no doubt, had learned something of the language, was supposed to be possessed with demons, who sometimes spake Dutch and sometimes Englishl, and sometimes a language which nol)ody understood, and -who held a conference with one another.

Several ministers, who were present, took down the conference in writing, and the names of several persons, mentioned in the course of the conference, as actors or bearing parts in it; particularly a woman, then in prison upon suspicion of witchcraft, one Greensmitli, who upon examination confessed and appeared to be surprised at the discovery. She owned that she and the others named had been familiar with a demon, who had carnal knowledge of her, and although she had not made a formal covenant, yet she had promised to be ready at his call, and was to have had a higo,h frolic at Christmas. when the agreement was to have been signed. Upon this confession she was 262

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MA SSACIU-IUETT$ S. executed, and two more of thle company were cond(lemnedl at the same time. In 1669, Sutsai.na Ma[rtin, of Salisbutriy, was bound ov-er to the court, upon suspicion of witclhcraft, but escaped at that time. In 1671, Elizabethl Knap, another vent,riloqua. alarmedl the people of Groton in much the same mainer as Ann Cole had (ldone those of HIairtfobrd(; but her demon was not so ctunniing, for instead of confiniug, himself to old women, le railed at the goodl minister of the town and other persons of good chlaracter, and the people could not then be prevailed on to believe him, but believed the giil, when she confessed she had been deluded, and that the devil had tormented her il the shape of good persons; so she escaped the punishment due to her fraud and ilposture. In 1673, Eunice Cole of Hampton was tried, and the jury found her not leg’ally guilty, but that there were strong grounds to suspect her of familiarity withl the devil. In 1679, WNilliam MIorse’s house, at Newbury, was troubled with the thlrowingi of bricks, stones, etc., and a boy, of the family, was stupl)(-)sed to be bewitclie(l, who accused one of the neighbors and in 1682, the house of George AValton, a quaker, at Portsmouth, and another house at Salmnon-falls (both in New Ilampshlire), were attacked after the same mainner. In 1653, the demons removed to Connecticut River again, where one Desborou,gh’s house was molested by an invisible hand, and a fire kind(led, nobody klnew how, vwhlichl burnt up great part of his estate; and in 1684, Pliilip Smithl, a judge of the court, a military officer and a representative of the town of HIadley, upon the same river (a hypochondriac person), fancied himself under anll evil land, and suspected a woman, one of his neighbors, and languished and pined away, and was generally supposed to be bewitchled to dleathl. While he lay ill, a nuniber of brisk lads tried an experiment upon the old woman. Ilaving diraTge(l lher out of her house, they hung her up until she was near dead, let her down, rolle(l her some time in the snow, and at last buried her in it and thlere left her, but it happened that she survived, and the melancholy man died. Notwithstandirng these frequent instances of supposed witcleclafts, none had suffered for near 30 years, in the MIassachlusetts colony. The execution of the assistant or councillor’s widow in 165, was disapproved of by many principal persons, and it is not unlikely that her death saved the lives of many other inlirior persons. But in 1685, a very circumstantial account of all or most of the cases I have mentioned, was publ)lished, and many arguments were broughlt to convince the country that they were no delusions or impostures, but the effects of a familiarity between the devil and such as he found fit for h’s instruments; and in 1687 or 1688, began a more alarming instance thlan any which had preceded it. Four of the children of Johln Goodwin, a grave mlanl and a good liver, at the north part of Boston, were generally believed to 1)e bewitchled. I haLve often heard persons, who were in the neighborhood, speak of the great consternation it occasioned. The children were all remarkable for ingenuity of temper, had been religiously educated and were thought to be without guile. The eldest was a,girl of 13 or 14 years. She had charged a laundress with taking away some of the family linen. The mother of the laundress was one of the wild Irish, of bad character, and gave the girl harsh language; soon after which she fell into fits, which were said to have something diabolical in them. One of her sisters and two brothers followed her example, and it is said, were tormented in tlhe same part of their bodies at the same time, although kep)t in separate apartments, 263

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and ignorant of one anothler’s complaints. One or two things were said to be very remarkable; all their complaints were in the day time, and they slept comfortably all night; they were struck dead at the si,ght of the Assembly’s Catechism, Cotton’s 3Iilk for Babes, and some other good books, but could read in Oxford jests, popish and quaker books, and the common prayer, without any difficulty. Is it possible the mind of man should be capable of suchl strong prejudices as that a suspicion of fraud should not immediately arise? But attachments to modes and forms in religion had such force, that some of these circumstances seem rather to have confirmed the credit of the children. Sometimes they would be deaf, then dumb, then blind; and sometimes all these disorders together would come upon them. Their tongues would be drawn down their throats, then pulled out uponl their chins. Thleir jaws, necks, shloulders, elbows and all thlleir joints would appear to be dislocated, and they would make most piteous outcries of burnings, of being cut with knives, beat, etc., and the marks of wounds were afterwards to be seen. The ministers of Boston and Charlestown kept a dlay of fasting and prayer at the troubled house; after which, the youngest child made no more complaints. The others persevered, and the magistrates then interposed, and the old woman was apprehended, but upon examination would neither confess nor deny, and appeared to be disordered in her senses. Upon the report of physicians that she was comapos 9vzeiitis, she was executed, declaring at her death the children should not be relieved. The eldest, after this, was taken into a minister’s family, where, at first, she behaved orderly, but, after some time, suddenly fell into her fits. The account of her affliction is in print; some things are mentioned as extraordinary, which tumblers are every day taught to perform; others seem more than natural, but it was a time of great credulity. The children returned to their ordinary behavior, lived to adult age, made profession of religion, and the affliction they had been under they publicly declared to be one motive to it. One of them I knew many years after. She had the character of a very sober virtuous woman, and never made any acknowledgment of fraud in this transaction. The printed account was published with a preface by Mr. Baxter, who says, “the evidence is so coavincing, tlact he must be a very obdlurate Scadd(ucee whto will not believe.” It obtained credit sufficient together with other preparatives, to dispose the whole country to be easily imposed upon by the more extensive and more tragical scene, which was presently after acted at Salem and other parts of the county of Essex. Not many years before, Glanvil published his witchli stories in England; Perkins and other nonconformists were earlier; but the great authority was that of Sir Matthew Hale, revered in New England, not only for his knowledge in the law, but for his gravity and piety. The trial of the witches in Suffolk was published in 1684. All these books were in New Elngl,.nd, and the conformity between the behavior of Goodwin’s children and most of’ the supposed bewitched at Salem, and the behavior of those in England, is so exact, as to leave no room to doubt the stories had been read by the New England persons themselves, or had been told to them by others who had read them. Indeed, this conformity, instead of giving suspicion, was urged in confirmation of the truth of both; the Old England demons and the New being so much alike. The court justified themselves from books of law, and the authorities of Keble, Dalton and other lawyers, then of the first character, who lay downI rules of conviction, as absurd and dangerous as any which were practised in New England. The trial of Richard Hatheway, the impostor, before Lord Chief Justice H-Iolt, was 10 or 12 years after.

This was a great discouragement to prosecutions in England 264

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MASSACHUSETTS. for witchcraft, but an effectual stop was not put to them, until the Act of Parliament in the reign of his late Majesty. Even this has not wholly cured the collmmon people, and we hear of old women ducked and cruelly murdered within these last twenty years. Reproach, then, for hanging witches, although it has been often cast upon the people of New England, by those of Old, yet it must have been done with an ill grace.

The people of New England were of a grave cast, and had long been disposed to give a serious solemn construction even to common events in providence; but in Old England, the reign of Charles II. was as remarkable for gaiety as any whatsoever, and for scepticism and infidelity, as any which preceded it. Sir \William Phllips, the governor, upon his arrival, fell in with the opinion prevailing. IMr. Stoughton, the lieutenant-goverlnor, upon whose judgment great stress was laid, had taken up this notion, that although the devil might appear in the shape of a guilty person, yet he would never be permitted to assume the shape of an innocent person. This opinion, at first, was generally received. Some of the most relig,ious women who were accused, when they saw the appearance of distress and torture in their accusers, and heard their solemn declarations, that they saw the shapes or spectres of the accused afflicting them, persuaded themselves they were witches, and that the devil, some how or other, although they could not remember how or when, had taken possession of their evil hearts and obtained some sort of assent to his afflicting in their shapes; and thereupon they thought they might be justified in confessing themselves guilty. It seems, at this day, with some people, perhaps but few, to be the question whether the accused or the afflicted were under a preternatural or diabolical possession, rather than whether the afflicted were under bodily distempers, or altogethlier guilty of fraud and imposture. As many of the original examinations have fallen into my hands, it may be of service to represent this affair in a more full and impartial light than it has yet appeared to the world. In February, 1691-2, a daughter and a niece of Mr. Parris, the minister of Salem village, girls of ten or eleven years of age, and two other girls in the nei,ghborhood, made the same sort of complaints as Goodwin’s children had made, two or three years before. The physicians, having no other way of accounting for the disorder, pronounced them bewitched. An Indian woman, who was brought into the country from New Spain, and then living with Mr.

Parris, tried some experiments which she pretended to be used in her own country, in order to find out the witch. This coming to the children’s knowledge, they cried out upon the poor Indian as appearing to them, pinching, pricking, and tormenting them; and fell into fits. Tituba, the Indian, acknowledged that slhe had learned how to find out a witch, but denied that she was one herself. Several )rivate fasts were kept at the minister’s house, and several, more public, by the wthole village, and then a general fast through the colony, to seek to God to rebuke Satan, etc. So much notice taken of the children, together with the pity and compassion expressed by those who visited them, not only tended to confirm them in their design, but to draw others into the like. Accordingly, the number of the complainants soon increased, and among them there were two or three Nwomene, and some girls old enough for witnesses. These had their fits too, and, when in them, cried out, not only against Tituba, but against Sarahl Osburn, a melancholy distracted old woman, and Sarah Good another old woman who was bedrid. Tituba, at length, confessed herself a witch, and that the two old women 265

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. were her confederates; and they were all committed to prison; and Tituba, upon search, was fotund to have scars upon her back which were called the devil’s mark, but might as well have been supposed those of her Spanish master. This commitnient was on the 1st of Marchl.

About three weeks after, two other women, of good characters and church members, Corey and Nurse, were complained of and brought upon their examilnation; when these children fell into fits, and the mother of one of them, and wile of Thomas Putnam, joined with the children and complained of Nurse as tormenting her; and made most terrible shrieks, to the amazement of all the neighborhood. The old women denied everything; but were sent to prison; and such was the infatuation, that a child of Sarahl Good, about four or five years old, was committed also, being charged with biting sonme of the afflicted, who showed the print of small teeth on their arms. On April 3d Mr. Parris took for his text, “I’Tave not I chosen you twelve, and one of you is ( devil.” Sarah Cloyse, supposing it to be occasioned by Nurse’s case, who was her sister, went out of the meeting.

She was, presently after, complained of for a witch, examined, and committed. Elizabeth Procter was charged about the same time: her husband, as every good husband would have done, accompanied her to her examination, but it cost the poor man his life. Some of the afflicted cried out upon him also, and they were both committed to prison. Instead of suspecting and sifting the wyitnesses, and suffering them to be crossexamined, the authority, to say no more, were impl)rudent in making use of leading questions, and thereby puttinig words into their mouths or suffering others to do it. Mr. Parris was over-officiotus; most of the examinations, although in the presence of one or more of the magistrates, were taken by hinm. Governor Hutcllhinson, in the second volume of his Ihistory, introduces an examination of several of the accused, which is certified by John Hawtlorne and John Corwin, Assistants, but owing to prescribed limnits they are here omitted: No wonder the whole country was in a consternation, when persons of sober lives and unblemislied characters were committed to prison upon such sort of evidence. The most effectual w-ay to prevent an accusation, was to become an accuser; and accordingly the number of the afflicted increased every day, and the number of the accused in proportion, who in general persisted in their ilnnocency; but, being strongly urged to give glory to God by their confession, and intimation being given that this was the only way to save their lives, and their friends urging them to it, some were brought to own their guilt. The first confession upon the files is of Deliverance Hobbs, May 11thl. 1692, being in prison. She owned everything she was required to do. The confessions multiplied the witches; new companions were always mentioned, who were immediately sent for and examined. Thus more than a hundred women, many of them of fair characters and of the most reputable families, in the towns of Salem, Beverly, Andover, Billerica, etc., were apprehended, examined, and generally committed to prison. The confessions being much of the same tenor, one or two may serve for specimens: ” The examination and confession (8 Sept. 92,) of Mary Osgood, wife of Captain Osgood of Andover, taken before John Ilawthlorne and other their Majesties justices. ” She confesses, that about 11 years ago, when she was in a melancholy state and condition, she used to walk abroad in her orchlard; and upon a certain time 266

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MASSACItUSETTS. she saw thile appearance of a cat, at thile end of the house, which yet slhe thought was a real cat. However, at that time, it diverted her from praying to God, and instead thereof she prayed to the devil; about which time she made a covenant with the devil, who, as a black man, came to her and presented her a book, upon which she laid her finger and that left a red spot: and that upon her signinig, the devil told her hlie was her God, and that she should serve and worship him, and, she believes, she consented to it. She says further, that about two years agone, she was carried through the air, in company with deacon Frye’s wife, Ebenezer Baker’s wife, and Goody Tyler, to five-mile pond, where she was baptized by the devil, who dipped her face in the water and made her renounce her former baptism, and told her she must be his, soul and body, forever, and that she must serve him, which she promised to do. She says, the renouncing her first baptism was after her first dipping, and that she was transported back again through the air, in company with the forenamed persons, in the same manner as she went, and believes they were carried upon a pole. Q. How many persons were upon the pole? A. As I said before (viz., four persons and no more but whom she had named above). She confesses she has afflicted three persons, John Sawdy, MIartha Sprague, and Rose Foster, and that she did it by pinching her bed clothes, and giving consent the devil should do it in her shape, and that the devil could not do it without her consent. She confesses the afflicting persons in the court, by the glance of her eye. She says, as she was coming down to Salem to be examined, she and the rest of the company with her stopped at Mr. Phillips’ to refresh themselves, and the afflicted persons, being behind them upon the road, came up just as she was mounting again, and were then afflicted, and cried out upon her, so that she was forced to stay until they were all past, and said she only looked that way towards them. Q. Do you know thile devil can take the shape of an innocent person and afflict? A. I believe he cannot. Q. Who taught you this way of witchcraft? A. Satan (and that he promised her abundance of satisfaction and quietness in her future state, but never performed anything; and that she has lived more miserably and more discontented since, than ever before). She confesses further, that she herself; in company with Goody Parker, Goody Tyler, and Goody Dean, had a meeting at Moses Tyler’s house, last MIonday night, to afflict, and that she and Goody Dean carried the shape of MIr. Dean, the minister, between them, to make persons believe that Mr. Dean afflicted. Q. What hindered you from accomplishing what you intended? A. The Lord would not suffer it so to be, that the devil should afflict in an innocent person’s shape. Q. Have yout been at any other witch meetings? A. I know nothing thlereof, as I shall answer in the presence of God and his people; (but said, that the black man stood before her, and told her that what she had confessed was a lie; notwithstanding, she said that what she had confessed was true, and thereto put her hand).

Her husband being present, was asked if hlie judged his wife to be any way discomposed. He answered, that having lived with her so long, lie dotli not judge her to be any ways discomposed, but has cause to believe what she has said is true…. When Mistress Osgood was first called, she afflicted Martha Sprague and Rose Foster, by the glance of her eyes, and recovered them out of their fits by the touch of her hand. Mary Lacey, Betty Johnson, and Hannah Post saw Mistress Osgood afflicting Sprague and Foster… The said Hannah Post, and Mary Lacey, and Betty Johnson, jun., and Rose Foster and Mary Richardson were afflicted by Mistress Osgood, in the time of their examination, and recovered by her touching of their hands. 267

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. “I underwritten, being appointed by authority, to take this examination, do testify upon oath, taken in court, that this is a true copy of the substance of it to the best of my knowledge, 5 Jan., 1692-3. The within Mary Osgood was exaimined before their Majesties justices of the peace in Salem. “‘Attest, JOHN HIGGINSON, Just. Peace.” A miserable negro woman, charged by some of the girls with afflicting them, confessed, but was cunning enough to bring the greatest share of the guilt upon her mistress: “Salem, Monday, July 4, 1692. The examination of Candy, a negro woman, before Bartholomew Gedney and John Hawthorne, Esqrs. Mr.

Nicholas Noyes also present: “Q. Candy, are you a witch? A. Candy no witch in her country. Candy’s mother no witch. Candy no witch, Barbados. This country, mistress give Candy witch. Q. Did your mistress make you a witch in this country? A. Yes, in this country mistress give Candy witch. Q.

What did your mistress do to make you a witch? A. Mistress bring book and pen and ink, make Candy write in it. Q. What did you write in it? A. She took a pen and ink, and upon a book or paper made a mark. Q. How did you afflict or hurt these folks, where are the puppets you did it with? She asked to go out of the room and she would show or tell; upon which she had liberty, one going with her, and she presently brou,lght in two clouts, one with two knots tied in it, the other one; which being seen by M1ary Warren, Deliverance Hobbs, and Abigail Hobbs, they were greatly affrighlted and fell into violent fits, and all of them said that the black man and MIrs. Hawkes, and the negro stood by the puppets or rags and pinched them, and then they were afflicted, and when the knots were untied yet they continued as aforesaid. A bit of one of the rags being set on fire, the afflicted all said they were burned, and cried out dreadfully.

The rags being put into water, two of the forenamed persons were in dreadful fits, almost choked, and the other was violently running down to the river, but was stopped. “‘Attest, JOHIN IIAWTIIORNE, Just. Peace.”

MIrs. Hawkes, the mistress, had no other way to save her life but to confess also. The recantation of several persons in Andover will show in what mianner they were brotughlt to their confessions: “Ae, whose names are underwritten, inhabitants of Andover; when as that horrible and tremendous judgment beginning at Salem village in the year 1692, by some called witchcraft, first breaking forth at Mr. Parris’s house, several young persons, being seemingly afflicted, did accuse several persons for afflicting them, and many there believing it so to be, we being informed that if a person was sick, the afflicted person could tell what or who w’as the cause of that sickness: Joseph Ballard, of Andover, his wife beiiing sick at the same time, le, either fliom himself or by the advice of others, fetched tweo of the persons called the afflicted persons, from Salem village to Andover, which was the beginning of that dreadful calamnity that befell us in Andover, believing the said accusations to be true, sent for the said persons to come together to the mneeting house in Andover, the afflicted persons being there. After Mr. Barnard had been at prayer, we were blindfolded, and our hands were laid upon the afflicted persons, they being in their fits and falling into their fits at our coming into their presence, as they 268

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MASSACHIIUSETTS. said; and some led us and laid our hands upon them, and then they said they were well, and that we were guilty of afflicting them: whereupon we were all seized as prisoners, by a warrant firom the justice of the peace, and forthwith carried to Salem. And, by reason of that sudden surprisal, we knowing ourselves altogether innocent of that crime, we were all exceedingly astonished and amazed, and consternated and affrighlted even out of our reason; and our nearest and dearest relations, seeing us in that dreadful condition, and knowing our great danger, apprehended there was no other way to save our lives, as the case was then circumstanced, but by our confessing ourselves to be such and such persons as the afflicted represented us to be, they, out of tenderness and pity, persuaded us to confess what we did confess. And indeed that confession, that it is said we made, was no other than what was suggested to us by some gentlemen, they telling us that we were witches, and they knew it, and we knew it, which made us think it was so; and our understandings, our reason, our faculties, almost gone, we were not capable of judging of our condition; as also the hard measures they used with us rendered us incapable of making our defence, but said anything and everything which they desired, and most of what we said was but, in effect, a consenting to what they said. Some time after, when we were better composed, they telling us what we had confessed, we did profess that we were innocent and ignorant of such tilings; and we hearing that Samuel Wardwell had renounced his confession, and quickly after condemned and executed, some of us were told we were going after Wardwell. MIARY OSGOOD, DELIVERANCE

DANE, SARAH WILSON, MARY TILER, ABIGAIL BARKER, HANNAH TILER.” The testimonials to these persons’ characters, by the principal inhabitants of Andover, will outweigh the credulity of the justices who committed them, or of the grand jury which found bills against them. Although the number of prisoners had been increasing, firom February until the beginning of June, yet there had been no trials. The charter was expected from day to day, and the new constitution of government to take place. Soon after its arrival, commissioners of oyer and terminer were appointed for the trial of witchcrafts. By the charter, the general assembly are to constitute courts of justice, and the governor with the advice of the council is to nominate and appoint jucldges, commissioners of oyer and terminer, etc., but whether the governor, with advice of council, can constitute a court of oyer and terminer, without authority for that purpose derived from the general assembly, has been made a question; however, this, the most important court to the life of the subject which ever was held in the province, was constituted in no other manner. It was opened at Salem, the first week in June. Only one of the accused, Bridget Bishop, alias Oliver, was then brought to trial. She had been charged witlh witchcraft twenty years before. The accuser, upon his death-bed, confessed his own guilt in the accusation; but an old woman, once charged with being a witch, is never afterwards wholly free from the accusation, and she being, besides, of a fractious temper, all the losses the neighbors met with in their cattle and poultry, and accidents in oversetting their carts, etc., were attributed to her spite against them, and now suffered to be testified against her. This evidence, together with tle testimony of the afflicted, and of the confessors, what they had heard from the spectres and seen of her spectre, and an excrescence, called a teat, found upon her body, were deemed by court and jury plenary proof, and she was con 269

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‘TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. victed, and on the 10thl of June executed. The further trials were put off to the adjournment, the 30thll of June. At the first trial, there was no colony or provincial law against witchcraft in force. The statute of James the First must therefore have been considered as in force in the province, witchcraft not being an offence at common law. Before the adjournment, the old colony law, which makes witchcraft a capital offence, was revived, with the other local laws, as they were called, and made a law of the province. At the adjournment, June 30, five women were brought upon trial, Sarah Good, Rebekah Nurse, Susannahi Martin, Elizabeth How, and Sarah Wilder. Thlere was no difficulty with any but Nurse. She was a meml)er of the church and of a good character, and, as to her, the jury brought in their verdict not guilty; upon which the accusers made a great clamor, and the court expressed their dissatisfaction with the verdict, which caused some of the jury to desire to go out again; and then they brought her in guilty. This was a hard case, and can scarcely be said to be the executiob of the law and justice in mzercy. In a capital case, the court often refuses a verdict of guilty, but rarely, if ever, sends a jury out again upon one of not guilty. It does not indeed appear that in this case the jury was ordered out again; but the dissatisfaction expressed by the court seems to have been in such a manner as to have the same effect. At the next adcljournment, August 5th, George Burroughs, John Procter, and Elizabeth his wite, John Willard, George Jacobs, and Marthla Carrier were all brought upon trial and condemned, and all executed upon the 19thl of August, except Elizabeth Procter, who escaped by pleading pregnancy. Butrroughlls had been a preacher, several years before this, at Salem village, -where there had been some misunderstanding between him and the people. Afterwards hlie became a preacher at Wells, in the province of Maine. We will be a little more particular in our account of his trial. The indictment was as follows: “Anno Regis et Reginre, etc., quarto. “Essex.s.s. The Jurors for our sovereign Lord and Lady the King and Queen, present, that George Burroughs, late of Falmouth, in the province of 3Massachusetts bay, clerk, the ninth day of May, in the fourth year of the reign of our sovereign Lord and Lady William and Mary, by the grace of God of England, Scotland, France, and Ireland, King and Queen, defenders of the faith, etc., and divers other days and times, as well before as after, certain detestable arts called witclhcrafts and sorceries; wickedly and feloniously hath used, practised, and exercised, at and within the town of Salem, in the county of Essex aforesaid, in, upon, and against one Diary Walcot of Salem village, in the county of Essex, single woman; by which said wicked arts, the said [Iary Walcot, the ninth day of May, in the fourth year above said, and divers other days and times, as well before as after, was and is tortured, afflicted, pined, consumed, wasted, and tormented, against the peace of our sovereign Lord and Lady the King and Queen, and against the form of the statute in that case made and provided. Endorsed Billa vera.”

Three other bills were found against him for witclicrafts upon other persons, to all which he pleaded not guilty, and put himself upon trial, etc. September the 9thll, 3lartha Cory, Jfary Esty, Alice Parker, Ann Pudeater, Dorcas Hoar, and Mary Bradbury were trie(ld, and Septelmbl)er 17thl, Marga)et Scott, TVilziot Read, Samuel Tacrdwell, l3Iary Ptarker, Abigail Falkner, Rebekah 2 -, 0

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MASSACHUSETTS. Eames, MIary Lacey, Ann Foster, and Abigail Hobbs, and all received sentence of death. Those in italics were executed the 22d following. Mary Esty, who was sister to Nurse, gave in to the court a petition; in which she says she does not ask her own life, although she is conscious of her innocence; but prays them, before they condemn any more, to examine the confessing witches more strictly; for she is sure they have belied thlemselves and others, lwhich will appear in the world to which she is going, if it should not in this world. Those who were condemned and not executed, I suppose, all confessed their guilt. I have seen the confessions of several of thlem. Wardwell also confessed, ])ut he recanted and suffered. His own wife, as well as his daughter.* accused him ind saved themselves. There arc many instances, among the examinations, of chlildrenl accusing their parents, and some of parents accusing their children. This is the only instance of a wife or husband accusing one the other, and surely this instance ought not to have been sulffered. I shudder iwhile I am relating it. Besides this irregularity, there were others in the course of these trials. The facts laid in the indictmients were, witclicrafts upon particular persons, there was no evidence of these facts, but what was called spectral evidence, which, in the opinion of the ministers, was insuffiieient; some of the othler evidence was of facts ten or twenty years before, which had no relation to those with which they were charged; and some of them no relation to the crime of witchcraft.

Evidence is not admitted, even against the general character of persons upon trial, unless to encounter other evidence brought in favor of it; much less ought their whole lives to be arraigned, without giving time sufficient for defence. Giles Cory was the only person, besides those already named, who suffered. He, seeing the fate of all who had put themselves upon trial, refused to plead; but the judges, who had not been careful enough in observing the law in favor of the prisoners, deteimined to do it against this unhappy man, and he had judgment of peiiefort et duire for standing mute, and was pressed to death; the only instance whlichl ever was, either before this time or since, in New Englanld. In all ages of the world superstitious credulity has produced greater cruelty than is practised among the Hottentots, or other nations, whose belief of a deity is called in question. This court of oyer and terminer, happy for the country, sat no more. Nineteen persons had been executed, all asserting their innocence; but this was not enoughll to open the eyes of the people in general. The jail at Salem was filled with prisoners, and many had been removed to other jails: some were admitted to bail, all reserved for trial, a law having passed constituting a supreme standing court, with jurisdiction in capital, as well as all other criminal cases.

The general court also showed their zeal against witchcraft, by a law passed in the words of tlhe statute of James I., but this law was disallowed by the king. Thle time, by law, for holding the court at Salem, was not until January. This gave opportunity for consideration; and this alone might have been sufficient for a change of opinions and measures, but another reason has been given for it. Ordinarily, persons of the lowest rank in life have had the misfortune to be charged with witcherafts; and although many such had suffered, yet there remained in prison a number of women, of as reputable families as any in the towns where they lived, * The daugh,iter upon a second enquiry denied thlat she keew her afther and mother to be witches; tlhe wife waVs not asked a second tinle. 2’t I

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THE GREAT IAEPUBLIC. and several persons, of still superior rank, were hinted at by the pretended bewitchlled, or by the confessing witches. Some had been publicly named. Dudley Bradstreet, a justice of the peace, who had been appointed one of president Dudley’s council, and who was son to the worthy old Governor, then living, found it necessary to abscond.

Having been remiss in prosecuting, he had been charged by some of the afflicted as a confederate. His brother, John Bradstreet, was forced to fly also. Calef says it was intimated that Sir WTilliam Phlips’s lady was among the accused. It is certain, that one lwho pretended to be bewitched at Boston, where the infection was beg’inning to spread, charged the secretary of the colony of Connecticut. At the court in January, the grand jury found bills against about 50 for witclhcraft, one or two men, the rest wvomen; but upon trial, they were all acquitted, except three of the worst characters, and those the Governor reprieved for the king’s mercy.

All that were not brought upon trial he ordered to be discharged. Such a jail delivery was made in this court as has never been known at any other time in New Elngland. PRIMITIVE EXTI’RAYAGANCE. MIr. Dudley was in favor of making Newtown, now Cambridge, the metropolis of the colony; and after consultation, Governor Winthrop, and the assistants, agreed to settle there, and streets and squares, and market places, were duly surveyed and laid out. In the spring of 1631, Mr. Dudley and others commenced building.

Governor Winthlrop had set up the frame of a house, but soon after changed his mind, and removed it to Boston. MIr. Dudley finlished his house, and moved into it with his family. The first houses were rude structures, the roofs covered with thllatchl, the fireplaces generally made of rough]

stones, and( tihe chimneys of boards, plastered with clay. The settlers were publicly enjoined to avoid all superfluous expense, in order that their money might be reserved for any unforeseen necessities. Mfr. Dudley having finished his house with a little more regard to domestic comfort, exposed himself to public censure. At a meeting of the Governor and assistants, he was told, that “he did not well to bestow such cost about wiainscoting and adorning his house, in the beginning of a plantation, both in regard to the expense, and the example.” Dudley’s answer was, that it was for the warmtlh of his house, and the charge was little, “being but clctbocards nfliled to the wall in the fornz of wainscot.” THE MIEN OF

“SEVENTY-SIX.” In Stockbridge, Berkshire county, Mass., Deacon Cleveland and another leading member of the church had been selected, for their positions in the centre of the valley and of the village, to spread the note of alarm. The son of the deacon, a young man only 17 years of age at the timle, gave to a friend of the writer a description of the reception of the news in that little village. One quiet Sabbath monring, when all was still, as it ever was in that peaceful valley on that holy day, he was suddenly startled by the report of a musket. On going out to ascertain what it meant, he saw his father in thle back yard with the dischlarged piece in his hand. Before he had time to express his wonder, another report broke the stillness of the Sabbath mnorning,, and as the smoke curled up in the damp atmosphere, hlie saw in the neighboring yard one of the chief pillars of the church, standing with his musket in his hand. He paused astounded, not know 2 6i-2

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MIASS.tACIIUSE TT’S. ing what awful l)llenomenon this strange event portended. IIe said that lie thloughlt that the judgmenit day had come.

But in a few moments lie noticed men hlurrying along, the hitherto deserted street, with weapons in their hands. One by one tlhey entered his faltlier’s gate, and gathered onI the low stoop. The flashing eye and flushed chleek told that something eventful had(l transpireld-and there had. When the report of those two muskets echloed along the sweet valley of the Housatonic and up the adjacenlt slopes, the sturdy farmers knew what it meant. The father, just preparing for the duties of the sanctuary, heard it, and. flinlging aside his Sabbath garments, hastily resumed his wo]rk-day dress, and taking down his musket, strained his wit’fe and children in one long farewell cembri’cee to his bosom. then turned friom tlhe home he might never see again. The young man buckled on his knapsack, and amid sobs and tears shut thle little farmn gate behind him. the fire in his eye drying up the tears as falst as they welled to thle surface.

Altlhoughll the hea’t heaved with emotion, the step was firm and the brow knit and i-esolute. In a short time the little porclh was crowded with mlen. A moment after, Dr. AWest, the pastor, was seen slownly descend(ling the lill towards the same place of relnd(lezvous. It was a cold, drizzly morning, and as, with his umbrella over his lei(adcl, and the 1Bible under his arm, hle entered the dooryard, his benevolent faice revealed the emiotion that was struggling within. He, too, knew the mleaninil, oft tlhose shots; they were the signals ag,reed upon to inform the minute-men of Stockl)bridge that their brethren in the East had closed withl tllhe foe in battle. Ilie ascended the steps, and, opening the Bible, read a few approp)riate passages, and then sent up a fervent prayer to HIeaven. Wheni lie c(iased, the rattling of armsIll was heard. A short and solemn blessing closed the impl)ressive scene, and before 12 o’clock twenty men, with lknapsacks on thlleir backs and(l muskets on their shloulders, had started onl foot for Boston, nearly 200 miles distant. Oh, lhow deep down in the consciences of men had the principles of that struggle sunk, when they made those Puritans forget the solemn duties of the sanctuary for the high,ler duties of tlle l)attlefield. They had been taught from the pulpit that it was the cause of God, and they took it up in the full belief they had his blessing and his promise. Such scenes as these were enacted every where, and from the consecrating hand of the man of Go(l went forthl the thousand separate l)ands that soon after met and stood shoulder to shoulder on the smoky heilghts oft’ Bunker Hill. 18 2’, “)

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: s~~~~~~A -~~~~ < ~~~~~~jx ~ \ RHODE ISLAND. Area,…………. 1,306

Sq(uare MAiles POl)ulation ill 1S60,…….. 174,6C)20 Population in 1870…….. 17.356 THE State of Rhode Island is the smallest in the Union. It is situated between 41 0 18’ and 42~ N. latitude, and 71~ 8’

alnd 71~ 52’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north and east by Massachusetts, on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the west by Connecticut. Its greatest length, front north to south, is 47 miles, and its greatest breadth, from east to west, about 37 miles. TOPOGRAPHY.

.~aircgc,nset Bay divides the State into two unequal portions. It enters the extreme eastern part, and extends inland for 30 miles in a northerly direction. It is a beautiful sheet of water, and has a depth sufticient to accommodate the largest vessels. It abounds in good harbors, of which the harbor of Newport is the finest, and is unsurpassed by any in the world.

The bay is about 12 miles wide, is thickly studded with the most picturesque islaunds. Different names are given its various parts. The upper part is called Providence Bay; the northeastern part, Bristol Bay; just east of wi. llh is Mlount Hop)e Bay, separated from Providence and Bristol bays by a long, narrow peninsula which comprises Bristol (‘ounty.

Providence, at the extreme northern end, and Newport at the southern end of Narraganset Bay, are the capitals of the State. Block Isctiid, lying in the Atlantic Ocean, 10 miles south of the mainland, belongs to this State.

Rhode Is(lan(l, lying near about the centre of Narraganset Bay, is the principal islandl belonging to the State, and has given its name 274

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RIIODE ISLAND. to the whole Commonwealth. It is exceedingly beautiful in formation; is delightfully situated, and covers all area of 37 square miles, being 15 miles long, and about 321 miles wide. It contains the city of Newport, and is one of the most fashionable summer resorts ill the UniOll. Ciionicut, Prudence, and several other small islands lie in the bay. The Rivers of Rhode Island are small. The principal are the Pacwtucket and the Pawtuxet. The former flows into Narraganset Bay to the east of Providence, while the latter and its tributaries drain the southern and western parts of the State. The Pawtucket has a fall of 50
feet at the town of Pawtucket. Above this fall, it is called the Blackstone; and below it, the Seekonk. Tile Taktnton Rive) enters the southeastern part of the State, from Massachusetts. These streams all possess admirable waterpower. Aloing the Atlantic coast and the shores of Narraganset Bay, the surface of the State is level; but as it recedes westward and northward it becomes rolling, altl-oughl there are no elevations in any part meriting the name of mountains. Mount Hlope, in the eastern part, the 5Voonsocket Hills, in the northern part, and Hopkins’

Hill, about the centre of the State, are the principal elevations.

MINERALS. Rhode Island possesses very few minerals. Anthracite coal has been found, but scarcely any attention has been paid to it. Iron, limestone, marble, and serpentine also exist to a limited extent.

CLIMiATE. The climate resembles that of Massachusetts, except that the ilamediate proximity of the sea does mnuch to mitigate the extiremes of cold in the winter and of heat in the summer, with which the Bay State is afflicted; so that RPlod(le Island is, perhaps, in this respect, the most pleasant of all the New England States. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. In some places the soil is passably fertile, but in others it requires the most careful and laborious cultivation. On the islands it is richer than on the mainland. Dairy farming and grazing occupy the attention of the principal portion of the agricultural class. 275

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1869, there were in the State 335,128 acres of improved land, and 186,096 acres of unimproved. The agricultural wealth of the State at the present time is as follows: Cash value of farms (estimated),…… $25,000,000 Value of farming implement (estimated),…….. Number of horses,…. asses and mules, ” milch cows,.

” other cattle,4 ” sheep,…. swine,…. Value of domestic animals,.

Bushels of wheat., rye…… ” Indian corn,.. oats,…… Irish potatoes,.

barley,…. Pounds of wool,…. butter,…. cheese,…. Tons of hay,……. Value of orchard products,. market garden products, homemade imanufactures, slaughtered aninmals,.. COMMERCE. Rhode Island is actively engaged in commerce, both foreign and domestic. During the year 1861, the total value of its exports was $255,297, and of the imports $543,652. In 1862, the tonnage owned in the State was 41,671, of which 11,440 was registered tonnage, 30,231 enrolled licensed, of which 5064 was steam tonnage. MANUFACTURES. The State is extensively engaged in manufactures, its streams furnishing waterpower unsurpassed by any in New England. The first cotton-mill ever erected in this country was built in Rhode Island.

By the census of 1860, there were 11(0 establishments in the State devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed 33,200
hands, and a capital of $23,300,000, consumned raw material worth $23,400,000, and yielded an annual product of $47,500,000. There were 135
cotton factories, employing 5474 male, and 6615 female hands, and a capital of $11,500,000, consuming raw 276 aiid maeliiiiery $s5o,ooo 9,120

20 23, 1 SO 21,420 34,320 21,960 $2,942,144 8,600 31,000 440,000 250,000

770,000 55,000 90,699’ 1,021,767 181,,511 71,000 $83,691 $146,661 $7,824

$713,725 I 4 4

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RHODE ISLAND. material worth $5,281,000, and returning an annual product of $12,258,657. There were 131 woollen factories, employing 2483 male, and 1568 female hands, and a capital of $2,986,000, consuming raw material worth $3,920,155, and yielding an annual product of $6,599,280. The other manufactures were as follows: Value of steam engines and machinery, agricultural ilmplements,.. ” sawed and planed lumber,.. “
flour,……….. “1 sewing machines……….. boots and shoes……. “1
furniture,……… ” jewelry, silver ware, etc.,. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS.

In 1865, there were 152 miles of railroad completed in the State of Rhode Island, which had been constructed and equipped at a cost of $5,011,000.

Providence and Newport have railway communication with Boston and New York, and the principal cities of the Union. Railroads also connect the principal towns of the State. EDUCATION. There is a permanent school fiuend which, in 1868, amounted to $412,685. The public schools are under the general supervision of the State Superintendents of Public Instruction, and are immediately in charge of the local school committees, who perform the duties already explained in connection with the committees of the other States. There was a Normnal School in operation until 1865, but it was abolished in that year. Efforts are now being made to revive it, and in the meantime the State provides for the education of teachers in certain Academies. In 1867, there were 400 public schools in the State.

The attendance was as follows: in the summer, 24,953 pupils; in the winter, 30,780; average summer attendance, 19,972; average winter attendance, 23,720. The only college in the State is Brown University, founded in 1764. It has schools of agriculture an(d science connected with it, and is in a flourishing condition. There are, also, a few academies in prosperous condition. In 1860, there were in Rhode Island 302 libraries, containing 465,419 volumnes-169 being public libraries. 277 … $1,068,825

… 117,845 … 170,000 … 510,000 … 90,000 … 315,959 … 217,472 …

3,006,678

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. There were, ill the same year, 5 daily, 1 semiweekly, 19 weekly newspapers, and 1 monthly periodical, published(l in this State.

Their aggregate annual circulation was 5,289,280 copies. PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS. The State Prison is located at Providence. It is provided with a library, and religious services are held regularly in the chapel.

The number of convicts in prison, in 1868, was 59. The Refo)rm? School at Providence, is not a State institution, though the Legislature makes a liberal donation to it for board of inmates sent there from localities outside of Providence. It receives both sexes; and after educating them, provides for their establishment in some useful trade. Rhode Island has no public asylum for the insane. Patients are maintained at the expense of the State in the Butler Asylim, at Providence, and in the State Lunatic Asylums of Massachusetts and Vermont. Patients are also supported by Rhode Island in the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Hartford, Conn., and in the Perkins Institution for the Blind, at Boston. RELIGIOUS DEINOMINATIONS. The total value of church property in 1860, was $3,308,350. There were 310 churches in the State, in the same year. FINANCES. The State debt, in 1870, amounted to $2,927,500. The receipts of the Treasury for the year 1868
were $397,736, and the expenditures $257,817, leaving a balance of $139,919. The State debt is due entirely on account of the late war. In 1868, there were 62 National Banks in Rhode Island, with an aggregate capital of $20,364,800. GOVERNMENT. Every male citizen, who has resided in the State one year, and in the town six months, and who owns real estate worth $134, or rents $7 per annum, and every native male citizen, twentyone years old, who has resided in the State two years, and six months in the town, lwho is duly registered, and has paid a tax of $1, or done militia duty within the year, is entitled to vote. 278

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RHODE ISLAND. The Governiment of the State is confided to a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, a Legislature, Secretary of State, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, who are chosen annually by the people on the first Wednesday of April, and hold office for one year, commencing from the last Tuesday ill MIay. The Senate consists of the LieutenantGovernor and one member from each of the 34 towns of the State, and is presided( over by the Governor. The House of Representatives consists of 72 members. The Legislature meets regularly at Newport on the last Tuesday ill May, and holds an adjourned session at Providence, the next January. The judiciary is comprised of a Supreme Court, consisting of a Chief Justice, and three Associate Justices. It has exclusive power to try all indictments for crimes for which the penalty is imprisonment for life. A Court of Common Pleas is held in each county, by one of the Justices of the Supreme Court, at stated times. The capitals of the State are Providence and Newport. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 5 counties. HISTORY.

Rhode Island was first settled in 16.6, by Roger Williams and five associates, who had been driven out of Massachusetts for expressinig opinions, upon political and religious matters, adverse to those entertained by the magistrates of the Bay Colony. They fixed their abode at the head of Narraganset Bay, and called the namne of their settlement Providence, “in grateful acknowledgment of God’s merciful providence to him (Williams) in his distress.” Tis colony was planted upon the basis of entire freedom in religious opinions and utterances. In 1637, WTilliam Coddington and 18 others, having been banished from MAassachusetts, for their religious opinions, joined Williams, and, by his advice, purchased the island of Aquetneck (Rhode Island) from the Indians, and settled upon it, founding Newwport and Portsmouth. A third settlement was made at Warwick, in 1642, and all three settlements began and continued to receive fresh accessions from the Bay Colony. In 1642, Williams went to England, and the next year secured a patent for the United Government of Providence, Newport, and Portsmouth, but the patent was not accepted until 1647. It continued in force until 1663, when the province was reorganized under a new charter, granted by Charles II., which fi)rmally established the colony of “Rhode Island and Providence Plantations.” 279

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. COAST FISIIING. This charter continued to be the sole Constitution of Rhode Island until the year 1842, when the present Constitutionr was adopted. The colony continued to grow and prosper, but suffered severely at the hands of the savages during King Phlilip’s war, in which struggle Providence was burned, as were miany houses in other parts of the province. Philip’s principal stronghold was in this State, in the swaup near MAount Hope. He was killed there in August, 1676. The great battle which destroyed the Narragansets as a nation, took place in a swamp in the southern part of this State. Rhode Island was opposed to the policy of exterminating the Indians, upon which Connecticut and Massachusetts had decided, and wias not even consulted in regard to the war by those colonies. In 1686, Sir Edmund Andros was appointed Governor-General of New England. One of his first acts was to abrogate the charter of Rhode Island, and reduce the province to a mere county, which he governed by his own creatures. Upon his downfall, the magistrates reorganized the colonial government under the charter. Rhode Island bore a prominent part in the various wars with the French in America. Her troops distinguished themrse!ves in the attacks upon Louisburg, Cape Breton, Crown Point, anll Osvwego, and 280

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RHODE ISLAND. in the various expeditions against Canada. Ill 1756, there were 50 privateers, manned by over 1500 men, belonging to this colony, and at sea. They were employed along the coast and in the MTest Indies, where they inflicted considerable damage upon the commerce of France. The colony was warm in its resistance of the injustice of Great Britain, and gave a liberal support to the Revolution. Privateers were sent out from, and government cruisers equipped in the ports of this State, and a full complement of men was furnished to the continental army. General Greene, of the army, and Captains Whipple and Talbot, of the navy, were natives of Rhode Island. The harbors along the Narraganset Bay were of the greatest importance to the colonial cause at the outset of the struggle. In December, 1776, Sir Henry Clinton, the British commander, occupied the island of Rhode Island, and held Newport for several years, during which time he kept the greater part of the State in a continual terror. In the fall of 1778, an unsuccessful effort was made by an American army, aided by the French fleet under Count de Grasse, to drive the enemy away. Late in 1779, Clinton evacuated Newport, and concentrated his forces at New York, and the next year the fleet and army of Count de Rochambeau reached Newport from France. Rhode Island was the last of the 13 original States to ratify the Federal Constitution, and was not admitted into the Union until the 29th of May, 1790. The victory on Lake Erie in 1812, was won by a Rhode Island Commander (Oliver H. Perry), whose force was principally made up of Rhode Island seamen. In 1842, a change in the Constitution of the State having become desirable, a portion of the people, known as the “
suffrage party,” illegally framed a new constitution, and proceeded to elect a legislature and Governor, and to make laws for the State. They were led by Thomas WV. Dorr, their pretended governor, and endeavored to establish their authority by force of arms. They were dispersed by the State troops. The proper authorities then summoned a convention. It met in September, 1842, and adopted the present Constitution of the State, which was ratified by the almost unanimous vote of the people in 1843. During the late war, Rlhode Island contributed 25,355 men to the military Fervice of the Union. ‘281

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. NARIRAGANSET BAY. CITIES AND TOWNS. The cities and towns of importance, besides the capitals, are, Smith field, North Providence, Warwick, Bristol, South Kingston, Coventry, East Greenwich, and Pawtucket. PROVIDENCE, In Providence county, is the largest city, and one of the capitals of the State. It is situated at the head of navigation oin Narraganset Bay, 43 miles south-southwest of Boston. ” It is one of the most beautifill cities in New England, and is surpassed only hy Boston in wealth and population. It is pleasantly situated on the northern arm of the Narraganset Bay, called Providence River. It is an ancient town, dating as far back as 1636 when its founder, Roger Williams, driven from the domain of Massachusetts, sought here that religious liberty which was denied him elsewhere. “This city makes a charming picture seen from the approach by 282

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RHODE ISLAND. the beautiful waters of the Narraganset, which it encircles on the north by its business quarter, rising beyond and rather abruptly to a lofty terrace, where the quiet and gratefully shaded streets are filled with dainty cottages and handsome mansions. Providence was once a very important commercial depot, its rich ships crossing all seas, and at the present day the city is equally distinguished for its manufacturing and commercial enterprise. In the former department of human achievement it early took the lead, which it still keeps, the first cotton-mrill which was built in America being still in use, in its suburban village of Pawtucket, and some of the heaviest mills and printworks of the Union being now in operation within its limits. It has also extensive mianufactories of machinery and jewelry. Thle workshops of the American Screw Company are the best appointed of their kind in the country. The total capital invested here in manufactures is upwards of $16,000,000.

“Providence is the seat of Brown University, one of the best educational establishments in America. It was founded in Warren, Rhode Island, in 1764, and removed to Providence in 1770. Its library is very large and valuable, and is remarkably rich in rare and costly works. “Rhode Island Hospital, now progressing towards completion in the southwestern suburb, will be one of the finest structures in the State. The entire cost, including grounds, will exceed a quarter million of dollars. “The Athenaeum has a fine reading-room, and a collection of 29,000 books. The Providence Historical Society, incorporated 1822, has a library of 4000
volumes. The Butler Hospital for the Insane, upon the banks of Seekonk River, is an admirable institution, occtllpying large and imposing edifices. In the same part of the city, and lying also upon the Seekonk River, is the Swan Point Cemetery, a spot of great rural beauty. There are upwards of 60 public schools in Providence, in which instruction is given to between eight and nine thousand pupils. The Dexter Asylum for the Poor stands upon an elevated range of land east of the river. In the same vicinage is the yearly meeting boarding-school, belonging to the Society of Friends. The Reform School occupies the large mansion, in the southeast part of the city, formerly known as the Tockwotton House. The Home for Aged W,omen and the Children’s Friend Society are worthy a visit. The Custom-House (Post-Office, and United States Courts) is a handsome granite structure, and one of the principal architectural ornaments of 283

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the city. The railroad depot, some of the banks, and many of the churches of Providence, are imposing structures. The railways di verging from Providence, are the Providence and Worcester, 43 miles, to Worcester, Mass.; Hartford, Providence and Fishkill, 123 miles, to Waterbury, Conn.; Boston and Providence, and Stonington and Provi dence, 62 miles, to New London; and the Providence, Warren and Bris tol. Upon the immediate edge of the city, onil the shore of a charming bay in the Seekonk River, stands the famous What Cheer Rock, where the founder of the city, Roger Williams, landed from the Massachu setts side, to make the first settlement here. “At Hunt’s Mill, 3 or 4 miles distant, is a beautiful brook with a picturesque little cascade, a drive to which is among the morning or evening pleasures of the Providence people and their guests. Yue de l’Eau is the name of a picturesque and spacious summer hotel, perched upon a high terrace 4 miles below the city, overlooking the bay and its beauties for many miles around. “Gaspee Point, below, upon the opposite shore of the Narraganset, was the scene of an exploit during the Revolution. Some citizens of Providence, after adroitly beguiling an obnoxious British revenue craft upon the treacherous bar, stole down by boats in the night and settled her business by burning her to the water’s edge.” * Providence contains many handsome buildings, both public and private. There are 54 churches, 35 banks, 27 public schools, and 7 or 8
newspaper establishments in the city. It is supplied with water, and lighted with gas. Street railways connect the prominent points. Providence is the centre of an important commerce with the Atlantic coast of the Union, and with foreign countries. Maniufactures are also extensively carried on here. Jewelry is made in great quantities, sometimes amounting to $3,000,000 per annum. Cotton and woollen goods, furniture and wooden ware, iron goods, machinery of various kinds, paper, boots and shoes, carriages, and locomotives, are the principal articles. In 1864, the value of the manufactures of Providence was $30,638,177. The population of the city is 68,906, which makes it the second city in New England. NEWPORT, In Newport county, 28 miles southeast of Providence, is one of the capitals of the State. It is situated on the west shore of the island * Iland-Book of American Travel. 284

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RHIODE ISLAND. NEWPORT. of Rhode Island, about 5 miles from the sea. The town is located on the slope of a slight hill facing the harbor, and is, in the main, handsonely built, containing a number of fine public buildings and private residences. The principal buildings are the State House, the Custom House, Market House, and the Redwvood Library, a fine Doric building containing about 1500 volumes, and a number of valuable busts and paintings. There are about 16 churches, 7 banks, 2 newspaper offices, and a number of manufacturing establishments in Newport. The city is wvell laid off, and is lighted with gas. It has a population of 12,521.

The hotels are its principal attraction. There are several firstclass establishments, capable of accommodating several thotsand visitors. Its admirable climate and situation have made Newport one of the most popular seaside resorts in the Union. The whole southern part of the island is lnow dotted with cottages and villas, many of them very handsome, belonging to wealthy citizens of various parts of the country, who pass the summer months here. “The facilities for surf-batlhing at Newport are not excelled by any place in this country. There are three fine beaches, called Easton’s, Sachuest’s, and Smith’s. Easton’s is the one generally used by the majority; and it is so situated that there is no danger to the bathers 285

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. from uiider-currents, while the breakers follow each other in majestic succession. This beach is about half a mile from the principal hotels, and public conveyances ply regularly to and fio. “The drives about Newport are excellent. In 1867, a new one was made by the city authorities, commencing at Bellevue avenue, near the Ocean House, and continuing south 2 miles; thence west 3 miles, along the shore; thence north 1 mile; and thence northeast to Bellevue avenue, 3 miles. The entire drive is 10 miles long, 80 feet wide, and is macadamized. It is pronounced the best one in the country, and some of the finest residences in the city are located on it. An unobstructed view of the Atlantic Ocean is afforded for nearly the entire length of this road. “Near Sachuest Beach, at the northern extremity of the Bluff, is a dark chasm called Purgatory. By actual measurement, the chasm is 160 feet in lengthl; from 8 to 14 feet wide at the top; from 2 to 24 feet wide at the bottom; 50 feet deep at the outer edge; and 10 feet of water at low tide. Near by are the Hanging Rocks, within whose shadow it is said that Bishop Berkeley wrote his “Minute Philosopher;” Thle Glen and the Spouting Cave are charming places to ride to, when the weather invites. Lily Pond, the largest sheet of spring water on the island, is easily reached from Spouting Cave. The waters of the pond swvarm with perch. “The city of Newport is so ancient, and once so prominent a town, that it would be of interest to the visitor, wholly apart from its present fashionable relations. Indeed, Newport may be sai(l properly to be two places-an old metropolis, and a wateringplace; and, like Quebec reversed, it has its upper, or new town, and its lower, or old town. The harbor is one of the best and deepest in the world. The entrance to it is 2 miles in width, 29 fathoms in depth, and in only one instance has it been closed by ice since the first settlement. As late as 1769, the city exceeded N\ew York in the extent of her foreign and domestic commerce. In the Revolution, the British long held possession of the place, during which time (till 1797) the population decreased from 12,000 to 4000. Among the interesting relics to be found in the town, are: Franklin’s printing-press, imported by James Franklin in 1720. It is in the office of the Xcuh)wort ~ericury, establishe(l in 1758.

Up)on this press the first newspaper issued (1732) was printed. The Chair of State, in which Benedict Arnol(i sat at the reception of the charter in 1663, is in the possession of the Gould family. The first Baptist Church, founded in 1 638, and claimed as the oldest church in Rhode Island, is worthy a visit. 286

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RIIODE ISLAND. “Newport was the birthplace of the gifted miniature painter Malbone, and Gilbert Stuart’s place of nativity may be seen in Narraganset, across the bay. Stuart made two copies of his great Washington picture for Rhode Island, one of which may be seen in the State House at Newport, and the other in that at Providence. “The old Stone Mill, in Touro Park, opposite the Atlantic House, is a curiosity, and is tenderly cared for by the city authorities. It is sometimes called the Round Tower. The origin and early history of this’old mill’ is a mystery, and has led to many fruitless conjectures. Some antiquarians claim for it the honor of having afforded a secure shelter to the Norsemen, who, they say, built it as a lookout and a tower of defence; but the modern observers deny it this enviable renown, and maintain that it was built by Governor Benedict Arnold, the first charter governor of the colony, who owned the property at the time of his death, and calls it in his will’my stone-built windmill.’ Redwood Library, near the opera-house, established by Abraham Redwood in 1750, contains one of the very best collections of paintings, choice books, and statuary in the country. The Jewish Synagog,ue, on Touro street, was built in 1672, and up to the Revolutionary war was regularly opened for worship, and was the only place in New England where Hebrew was chanted and read weekly. There were many families of wealthy and influential Jews in Newport at that time; now there are none. Abraham Touro left $20,000 in charge of the town authorities, the interest to be expended in keeping the synagogue and grounds, and street leading to it, in repair; and the wishes of the donor have been carefully complied with. Besides these places, the visitor should see the Perry Monument, Commodore Perry’s house, built in 1763, and long known as the’Granary;’ the fortifications in the harbor, Fort Adams, Fort Wolcott, Fort Brown, and the Dumplings. Fort Adams, on Brenton Point, is one of the largest works in the United States, mounting 460 guns” * The harbor of Newport is unsurpassed by any in the world. It is deep and safe, and may be entered at all times without a pilot. It is defended by Fort Wolcott, on Goat Island, and Fort Adams, a powerfil work on Brenton’s Point, a mile and a half southwest of the city. Tilis fine harbor formerly made Newport one of the most important commercial cities of the Union, and until the dawn of the Revolution it was the rival of Boston and New York.

Now it has but a small trade, the principal part of which is with the towns along the coast. * Book of Seaside Resorts. 287

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. It has regular steamboat communication with Providence and New York, and is connected with Boston by a railroad. Newport was occupied by the British during several years of the Revolution. They quartered 8000 troops upon the town, destroyed 480 houses, rol)bed the library, which was then the finest in America, and carried off the town records. In the spring of 1776, Admiral Wallace was driven out of the harbor of New port, by a vigorous attack, assisted l)y the Providence troops. But in December of the same year arrived the British fleet under Sir Peter Parker. It sailed up the West Passage, crossed from the north point of Conanicut, and landed an army of 8000 or 10,000 English and Hessians, commanded by General Clinton and Lord Percy, in Middletown, about five miles from Newport. The army immediately began to plunder, and was quartered upon the inhabitants until May, 1777, when Clinton and Percy, with a large party left for New York, and General Prescott succeeded to the command. He made himself obnoxious by petty tyranny, but Major Barton revenged the injuries of the island by a feat of memorable ingenuity anld valor. Barton was on duty with the Rhode Island line, and after the capture of General Lee, in November, 1776, hlie considered how he might retort upon the enemy, and resolved to capture Prescott. When the Englishl landed, Miajor Barton was stationed at Tiverton, upon the mainland, not far from the shore of Rhode Island. He waited for several months, but found no fit opportunity, until a British deserter was brought into his quarters. Barton ascertained from him the situation of Prescott’s headquarters, and all the necessary details, and prepared to put his plan immediately into execution. He and his menii were new to the service, and failure was permanent disgrace, as he well knew; but without a moment’s hesitation hlie selected his companions from the officers, told them the scope of the undertaking, and engaged their confidence and sympathly. Five whlale-boats were procured and fitted. At the last moment Barton addressed his soldiers, and said that he wished the voluntary assistance of about 40
men. The whole regiment advanced, and declared itself ready to accompany him. On the 4th of July, 1777, the party left Tiverton, and crossed to the western shore of the bay. At 9 o’clock on the evenlling of the 9thl of July, they left Warwick Neck in the whale-boats. That of Major Barton went in firont, and was distinguished from the others by a handkerchief tied to a pole in the stern. The little fleet dropped silently down the bay, between the islands of Patience and Prudence. In the stillness of the night they heard the drowsy call of “All’s well,” froni the sentinels on the English ships, and as they touched the shore of Rhode Island a sound as of running horses was heard. It was too late to be alarmed, and the party landed in silence, Major Barton detailing one man to remain in each boat. They landed about a mile friom the headquarters of General Prescott, and crept toward it in five divisions. There were three doors to the house-on the southl, the east, and the west. One division was to advance upon each door, the fourth was to guard the road, and the fifth to act as a reserve. As they reached the house they were challenged by the sentinel.

“Friends,” said Barton. “Advance and give the countersign,” was the reply.

“D-n you, wve have no countersign. Have you seen any deserters to-nigh]t?”

288

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RIIODE ISLAND. said Barton, advancing upon the sentry, seizing his musket, telling him he was a prisoner, and threatening him with instant death if he betrayed them by making a noise. The sentry said that the general was in the house. Each division had now reached its station; the doors were forced, and the soldiers rushed up stairs to the chamber of the host. He was speechless with fright, and pointed to the room below as that of the general. Making sure of the host, they returned into the entry, where Barton ordered them to fire the house at the four corners, as lihe meant to have the general, alive or dead. But at this moment, aroused by the noise, Prescott called to know what was the matter. The soldiers ran down stairs and entered his room, where Barton saw a man sitting on the side of the bed. ” Are you General Prescott?” demanded Barton. ” I am, sir,”

replied the officer. ” You are my prisoner,” returned Barton. “I acknowledge it, sir,” said the general. Major Barton then told him that lie must go with them, and to his request that he might be allowed to dress himself, replied that he was very sorry that his business required great dispatch, and the general was obliged to hurry off as he was.

Prescott’s aid, Major Barrington, had leaped out of a window at the beginning of the fray, and had landed safely in the midst of the guard of reserve. Of the three prisoners, only the sentinel had his shoes on; and as the party hurried across the field of rye-stubble tangled with blacklberry bushes, the general’s feet and legs, as also those of Major Barrington, were sorely scratched. But the party was led along to the shore as directly and rapidly as possible, and reached their boats safely.

Barton placed the prisoners in his boat, and wrapping his cloak around the shivering general, he ordered the little fleet to put off. The alarm was given from the shore by guns and rockets, but the boats darted silently and swiftly out of danger. General Prescott asked if Barton commanded, and said to him: ” You have made a bold push to-night,” and expressed the hope that he should not be hurt. “Not while you are in my care,” said Barton.

The bay was in a wild confusion with the spreading alarm; but straight under the bows and sterns of the English ships, in that darkest hour preceding dawn, the prisoner was safely rowed, and morning broke upon the expedition arriving under the guns of its own batteries. General Prescott was afterwards exchanged for General Lee. MISCELLANY. In 1772, the famous seizure of the British schooner Gaspee occurred in Narraganset Bay. The following account of the occurrence was written by Colonel Ephraim Bowen, of Providence, who was an actor in the scene: In the year 1772, the British Government had stationed at Newport, Rhode Island, a sloop of war, with her tender, the schooner called the Gaspee, of eight guns, commanded by William Duddingston, a lieutenant in the British navy, for the purpose of preventing the clandestine landing of articles subject to the payment of duty. The captain of this schooner made it his practice to stop and board all vessels entering or leaving the ports of Rhode Island, or leaving Newport for Providence. 19 289 I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. On the 17th of June, 1772, Captain Thomas Lindsay left Newport, in his packet, for Providence, about noon, with the wind at northl; and soon after, the Gaspee was under sail, in pursuit of Lindsay, and continued the chase as far as Namncut Point. Lindsay was standing easterly, with the tide on the ebb, about two hours, when lie hove about at the end of Namcut Point, and stood to the westward; and Duddingston, in close chase, changed his course and ran on the point near its end and grounded. Lindsay continued in his course up the river, and arrived at Providence about sunset, when he immediately informed 3Ir. John Brown, one of our first and most respectable merchants, of the situation of the Gaspbe. 3Ir. Brown immediately resolved on her destruction; and he forthwith directed one of his trusty shlipmasters to collect eight of the largest long boats in the harbor, with five oars to each, to have the oar-locks well muffled to prevent noise, and to place them at Fenner’s wharf, directly opposite to the dwelling of M3r. James Sabine. Soon after sunset, a man passed along the main street, beating a drum, and informing the inhabitants that the Gaspee was aground on Nallmcut Point, and inviting those persons who felt a disposition to go and destroy that troublesome vessel, to repair in the evening to Mr. James Sabine’s house.

About nine o’clock I took my father’s gun, and my powder-hlorn and bullets, and went to Mr. Sabine’s, and found it full of people; where I loaded my gun, and all remained there till ten o’clock, some casting bullets in the kitchen, and others making arrangements for departure, when orders were given to cross the street to Fenner’s wharf and embark, which soon took place, and a sea-captain acted as steersman of each boat, of whom I recollect Captain Abraham Whipple, Captain John B. Hopkins (with whom I embarked), and Captain Benjamin Dunn. A line from right to left was soon formed, with Captain Whipple on the right, and Captain Hopkins on the ri,ght of the left wing. The party thus proceeded, till within about sixty yards of the Gaspee, when a sentinel hailed, “Who comes there?” No answer.

He hailed again, and no answer. In about a minute, Duddingston mounted the starboard gunwale, in his shirt, and hailed, ” Who comes there? ” No answer. He hailed again, when Captain Whipple answered as follows: “I am the sheriff of the county of Kent; I have got a warrant to apprehend you; so surrender, d-n you.” I took my seat on the thwart, near the larboard row-lock, with my gun at my right side, and facing forward. As soon as Duddingston began to hail, Joseph Bucklin, who was standing on the main thwart by my right side, said to me, “Ephle, reach me your gun, and I can kill that fellow.” I reached it to him accordingly, when, during Captain Whipple’s replying, Bucklinll fired, and Duddingston fell; and Bucklin exclaimed, ” I have killed the rastal!” In less than a minute after Captain Whipple’s answer, the boats were alongside the Gaspee, and boarded without opposition. The men on deck retreated below, as Duddingston entered the cabin. As it was discovered that he was wounded, Johnl Mawney, who had, for two or three years, been studying medicine and surgery, was ordered to go into the cabin and dress Duddingston’s wound, and I was directed to assist him. On examinationl, it was found that the ball took effect directly below the navel. Duddingston called for Mr. Dickinson to produce bandages and other necessaries for the dressing of the wound; and, when this was done, orders were given to the schlooner’s company to collect their clothing and everything belonging to them, and to put them into the boats, as all of them were to be sent on shore. All were soon collected and put on board of the boats, including one of our boats. 290

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RHODE ISLAND. They departed and landed Duddingston at the old still-house wharf at Pawtuxet, and put the chief into the house of Joseph Rhodes. Soon after, all the party were ordered to depart, leaving one boat for the leaders of the expedition, who soon set the vessel on fire, which consumed her to the water’s edge. The names of the most conspicuous actors are as follows, viz: Mr. John Brown, Captain Abraham Whipple, John B. Hopkins, Benjamin Dunn, and five others whose names I have forgotten, and John Mawney, Benjamin Page, Joseph Bucklin, and Toupin Smith, my youthful companions, all of whom are dead-I believe every man of the party-excepting myself; and my age is eighty-six years, this twenty-ninth day of August, eighteen hundred and thirtynine. 291 I

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CONNECTICUT. Area,…………. 4,674 Square Miles. Population in 1860,………….460,147 Population in 1870,………537,454 THE State of Connecticut lies between latitude 41 ~ and 42~ 3’ Ni., and longitude 71~

55’ and 73~ 50’ W.; and is bounded on the north by Massachusetts, on the east by Rhode Island, on the south by Long Island Sound, and on the west by Niew York. Its extreme length from east to west is about 93 miles, and its greatest width fronm north to south 68 miles. It is, next to Rhode Island and Delaware, the smallest State in the Union. TOPOGRAPHY. The country bordering Long Island Sound is level, but a great part of the State is rugged and mountainous, though the mountains, as they are called, are little more than high hills. In the eastern part, between the Connecticut River and the Rhode Island line, is a ridge, supposed to be the extreme prolongation of the White Mountains of New Hamrnpshire. The western part is crossed by an extension of the Green Mountains of Vermont, which reach almost to the shore of the Sound. This range consists of a series of detached peaks. The Talcet or Greenwood Range passes across the State from the Massachusetts linle to the immediate vicinity of New Haven.

East of this range are the Middletown Mountains, which extend southward from Hartford to North Branford, east of New Haven, running parallel with the Greenwood Range. In the northern part of the State there is a small range between the Green and the Greenwood Mountains. Though of a mo(derate elevation, these ranges are exceedingly picturesque, and give a peculiar charmn to the scenery of the State. ” Most of the ridges are 292 ,4

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CONNECTICUT. VIEW.. t, F ROm~ MONT…… VIEW FROM MOUNT IIOLYOKE.

parallel, and their western parts generally precipitous, so that in many places the country seems divided by stupendous walls. Immense masses of ruins are collected at their feet. These consist sometimes of entire cliffs and pillars of many tons weight, which are thrown off by the freezing of water in the gullies, and often fall with a mighty concussion into the valleys. On the opposite side there is generally a slope covered with trees…… In Meriden is a natural icehouse, in a narrow defile, between ridges of greenstone. The defile is choked up with the ruins of the rocks which have fallen from the 293 I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ridges, and form a series of cavities overgrown with trees, and strewn with thick beds of leaves. The ice is formed in the cavities of these rocks, and remains the whole year. A portion of it melts during summer, causing a stream of cold water perpetually to flow from the spot. The space between the mountains is called Cat Hollow, and presents the most wild and picturesque scenery in the State.” The principal peaks are Mount Tom, near Litchfield, and Bald Mountain in the extreme northern part of the State. The entire southern border is washed by Long Island Sound, into which flow the principal rivers of the State. There are several good harbors along the Sound, of which New London is the best, though New Haven Bay is the largest. The Connecticut River enters the State from Massachusetts, and flows through it into Long Island Sound, dividing it into two unequal parts. It is navigable for a distance of 50
miles for vessels drawing eight feet of water, and much higher for steamers. The scenery of the valley of this stream is very beautiful in many places; Hartford, Middletown, and Haddam are the principal places on its banks. The Housatonic River flows through the western part of the State into the Sound. It is navigable for 12 miles for sinall vessels. It rises in the northern part of Berkshire county, Mass., and in its course through Connecticut receives a number of small tributaries, which drain the little lakes or ponds, which are quite numerous in Litchfield county.

The whole region through which it flows is noted for the beauty of its scenery, and the healthfulness of its climate. It is a region of bold hills and lovely valleys, through which the merry little streams come leaping to join the main river. The falls of the Housatonic, 67 miles from its mouth, are 60 feet in hleight, and are among the most beautiful in America. The Thames River is formed by the junction of the Quinebaug, Shetucket, and Yantic rivers, near Norwich, in New London county, and is about 14 miles long. It flows southward into the Sound. At its mouth it widens into the fine harbor of New London, which is the best in the State.

It is navigable for its entire length. Norwich and New London are its principal towns. Nearly all the rivers of the State furnish excellent waterpower. MINERALS. Connecticut is very rich in mineral deposits.

Granite abounds, and marble of an excellent quality is found. The chrysoberyl and the 294 t

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CONNECTICUT. precious beryl are found near Haddam, and the columbite near Midd]e town. Dr. Frankfort, of Middletown, thus sunms up the mineral re sources of the State: “The State of Connecticut may be geologically divided into two large fields, the first of which is composed of the unstratified and metamorphic rocks, and the other of those secondary strata which, under the name of’freestone,’ are so extensively quarried in different parts of the State for building purposes, and constitute the new red sandstone of Lyell. The best place to study this peculiar formation is near Portland, in Middlesex county. In the vicinity of the new red sandstone, are to be found in nearly every part of the State, large dykes of trap, which protrude and traverse it, as for example, at Meriden. This gives Connecticut a great analogy to the Lake Superior copper region, in which large veins of native copper, unequalled as yet in any other part of the world, are found nearly always at the junction of these trapdykes with the red sandstone. From this fact we might expect that inll Connecticut, also similar deposits of copper would exist. In several instances indeed, the vestiges of the presence of such have been found; as, for example, near New Haven, where a large mass of native copper was discovered; and also near Meriden, where ancient excavations made in search of copper may be seen. The State is very rich in mining resources, as veins of the different metals have been discovered, and more will undoubtedly be found.

In every part of the world, such veins are chiefly known to exist where the metamorphic strata are in junction with the secondary; and the mineral veins of Connecticutt are near these junctions, of which a great many may be found throughout the State. The following is a brief statement of the different localities in which valuable minerals are known to exist in veins or deposits. Gold has been found in small quantities in Middle Haddam, Middlesex county; silver, in the argentiferous lead ore of the Middletown mines, now extensively worked. One of the richest copper mines in the United States has been worked in Bristol, Hartford county, for ten years. The ores found here are chiefly sulphuirets. Copper deposits also exist near Litchfield, Simsbury, Plymouth, Granby, Farmington and Middletown. Lead occurs, as galena, at the mines near Middletown; also near Wilton and Brookfield, and near Monroe, Fairfield county. Iron is mined at Salisbury, where large furnaces are supplied with’brown hematite,’ the ore chiefly found at the mines. Roxbury furnishes an excellent ore, from which the very best of steel could be manufactured, if the large deposits of pure spathic 295

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. iron, known to exist there, should be worked. Bismuth is found at different places in the town of Monroe. The only vein containing these valuable metals (cobalt and nickel) in abundance in the United States is in the town of Chatham, where at present extensive mining operations for their extraction are carried on.”* CLIMATE. The climate is severe in winter, but pleasant in summer, owing to the cool sea breeze which mitigates the heat. The spring comes earlier than in the other New England States, but is accompanied by keen northeast winds, which are neither pleasant nor healthful. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. Except in the valleys of the principal rivers, the soil of Connecticut is not remarkable for fertility. In the river valleys the lands are very good, especially along the Connecticut River. The northwestern part of the State is devoted to dairy farming and grazing. Agriculture receives great attention in this State, and the soil is skilfully and industriously tilled. In 1869, there were 1,830,808 acres of improved, and 673,457 acres of unimproved land in Connecticut. The other agricultural products were stated as follows for the same year: ……. $125,000,000 ts and machinery, 3,500,000

…………….. 40,150 asses and mules, milch cows,. ” other cattle,.. “
sheep,…. swine,… Value of domestic animals, Bushels of wheat,…. “
rye…… Indian corn,. ” oats,…. Irish potatoes,. ” barley,…. “
buckwheat,. Pounds of tobacco,… ” wool,…. * Lil)ppiincott’s Gazetteer, p. 489. 2 96 110 99,350 112,680 118,300 90,450 $,17,311,009 75,000 837,000

1,950,000 2,100,000 2,500,000 25,000 270,000 6,000,000 350,000 tk

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CONNECTICUTT. Pounds of butter,……… ” cheese…………. ” maple sugar,…… ” beeswax and honey,.. Gallons of wine,………. Tons of hay………. COMMERCE. Connecticut possesses little or no foreign commerce of her own, her trade with other countries, except that with the West Indies, being conducted almost entirely through the ports of New York and Boston. An active trade is maintained with the principal ports of the American coast, especially with New York. In 1863, the total toinnage owned in the State was 110,033. In 1861, the total exports of Connecticut amounted to $421,320, and the imports to $753,309. MlANUFACTURES.

Connecticut is extensively engaged in manufactures, and contains, perhaps, more small establishments conducted by persons of moderate capital than ally of the New England States. The products of these little factories make up an imnposing, sum total, which compares favorably withl that of the States containing larger establishments. The wooden clocks of this State (to say nothing of its “wooden nutmegs “) are famous, and of late years have even been exported to Europe. “Nearly all the inhabitants are directly or indirectly interested in some kind of manufactures. It is the genius of the people to attend to a multiplicity of pursuits, and consequently, while all are busy, undertakings on a large scale are seldom made. More recently, however, combined capital, aided by men of means from other States, has much enlarged manufacturing operations. Much of the machinery used is the fruit of the inventions and improvements by the manufacturers themselves, among whomn we need mention but the namies of Whitney, Goodyear and Colt. The people are always contriving and enthusiastic in whatever they undertake. The most extensive manufactures are those of iron, clocks, carriages and india-rubber goods; iron of all possible varieties, fromnt the heaviest castings to the finest cutlery, including anchors and boilers, firearms, edge-tools, wire, etc.

Connecticut has almost engrossed the manufacture of clocks for our whole country, and for a large part of the civilized world…. The gLenius of Goodyear and of his co-laborers, has given STeater variety to 297

7,620,912 3,898,411 44,259 67,101 46,783 750,000 o.. …. …. ….

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the manufactures of india-rubber than of almost any other known substance. In the manufacture of carriages, Connecticut is second to no State in the Union.”* In 1860, there were in the State, 2923
establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing 65,780 hands, and a capital of $45,720,000, using raw material worth $40,140,000, and yielding an annual product of $83,000,000. There were 64 cotton mills, employing 3314 male and 4275 female hands, and a capital of $6,000,000, consuming raw material worth $4,000,000; paying $1,453,128 for labor; and yielding an annual product of $7,641,460. There were 90 woollen mills, employing 2291 male and 1460 female hands, and a capital of $2,494,000; consuming raw material worth $4,206,000; paying $917,437 for labor; and yielding an annual product of $5,879,000. The other manufactures are stated as follows in the same year.: Value of agricultural implements….. ‘ pig iron………… rolled iron,……….. steam engines and machinery,.. ” sewing machines,……

sawed and planed lumber,…. ” flour………… ” leather,……’…

boots and shoes,………. furniture,………. ” jewelry, silverware, etc…… INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In the year 1868, there were 637 miles of railroad in operation in Connecticut, the total cost of which was $24,370,000. Lines cross the State in every direction, connecting its principal tgwns with each other, and with New York and Boston. A continuous line skirts the shore of Long Island Sound, from which several routes diverge, at various points, to the northward. An important “Air Line” between New York and Boston is now in construction across the State.

There is but one canal in the State, and that a short one around Enfield Falls, in the Connecticut River. * Appleton’s Cyclopaedia, vol. v. p. 617.

298 $206,162 379,500 175,500 1,953,535 2,784,600 531,651 1,719,294 953,782

2,044,762 514,425 1,887,484

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CONNECTICUT. EDUCATION. This State has always been noted for the excellence of its public school system. There is a permanent school fund, which, in 1870, amounted to $2,044,058. The interest of this sum is applied to the support of the schools, and the remainder of the amount needed for their maintenance is raised by taxation. In 1868 there were 1645 public schools. The attendance was as follows: in the winter, 80,148, average attendance 57,117, in the summer, 73,863, average attendance 52,299. The proportion of children attending school is less than in any other New England State, and truancy prevails to such an alarming extent that the authorities of the State are urged by the Board of Education to take decisive measures to put a stop to the evil. They assert that less than one half the children of the State are found on an average in the public schools. The school system is under the control of the State Board of Education, which consists of the Governor and LieutenantGovernor, ex officio, and one person appointed by the Legislature fromn each of the four Congressional districts, for a term of four years. The principal executive officer is the Secretary, who is chosen by the Board, and manages its affairs, and supervises the public schools under its direction. The State is divided into 1620 educational districts, each of which is immediately in charge of a School Committee, elected by the people of the district. In order to be entitled to the benefits of the school fund, each common school must be conducted for at least six months in the year by a regularly licensed teacher. There is a State Normal School, for the education of teachers, at New Britain, and Teachers’

Institutes are held in various parts of the State under the direction of the Secretary of the Board of Education. The Commonwealth makes an appropriation 9f $3000 per annum to defray their expenses. Seven cities, and several of the large towns, support public high schools. There are 35
incorporated academies, and a number of flourishing private schools in the State. Connecticut contains three colleges, Yale College, at New Haven, Trinity College, at Hartford, and Wesleyan University, at Middletown. The first is a Congregationalist, the second an Episcopal, and the third a Methodist institution. rale College was originally located at Killingworth, and was founded in 1700. It was removed to Saybrook in 1707, and to New 299

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. YALE COLLEGE, NEW HAYEN. Haven in 1716. It embraces five schools, the academical, theological, medical, law school, and the school of science and the arts. Each of these has its own faculty. It is one of the best institutions of its kind in the Union, but is considerably hampered in its usefulness by a lack of means. Recently, however, it has received some assistance from the State and from private individuals.

Trinity College was founded in 1823, is located at Hartford, and is under the direction of the Episcopal Church. The college is in a prosperous condition, and ranks high amongst the institutions of its kind in the Union. The Wesleyan University, at Middletown, is a flourishing institution under the direction of the Methodists. The course is similar to that of other firstclass colleges. In 1860 there were 490 libraries in the State (of which 194 were public), containing 404,206 volumes. In the same year there were 300

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CONNECTICUT. 55 periodicals published in the State-45 political, 3
religious, 5 literary, and 2 miscellaneous. Of these, 14 were daily, 1.

semiweekly, 37 weekly, 1 monthly, and 2 quarterly. Their aggregate annual circulation was 9,555,672 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Prison is located at Wethersfield. The inmates work in silence during the day, and are confined in separate cells at night. Their labor is let out to contractors, and in 1868 the earnings of the institution were slightly in excess of its expenses. The commutation system is carried out here with great success, and concerts and other healthful entertainments are occasionally given in the prison by benevolent citizens. In March, 1870, there were 219 convicts con fined here. The Amnerican Asylum for the Deatf and Dunmb, at Hartford, is the oldest as well as one of the best institutions of its kind in America. It was incorporated in 1816, and opened the next year. In 1819 it received from Congress an endowment of 23,000 acres of land, and the Legislatures of several of the States made liberal provisions for it, upon the condition that they should each have the privilege of placing a certain number of pupils under its care. This arrangement is still in operation. ” In the earlier periods of instruction much use was made of the system of methodical signs, so carefully elaborated by Dr. L’Epee and Sicard, in which each word had a definite and fixed sign, and could be given in the proper order in the sentence. These signs were greatly simplified and improved by Mr. Gallaudet and his early associates. Hlis successors continued to introduce such modifications and improvements as the experience of intelligent teachers suggested. The methods now pursued have the same general ends in view as at first, that is, to enable the pupils to hold communication with society by means of written language, but they secure this result earlier and more satisfactorily by leading the pupil sooner to use forms of connected language. Special attention has been given from the first to the religious and moral culture of the pupils.” The average annual attendance at this institution is about 250. Nearly 1500 pupils have attended it since its establishment. The -Retreat for the Insane, at Hartford, is supported in part by the State, and was incorporated in 1822. A General Hospital for the Insane has been established by the State at Middletown, on the 301

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. l)anks of the Connecticut River, and is now in operation. In 1868 the number of patients at the Hartford Retreat was 413.

Patients are maintained here by some of the other Eastern States. The State Reform School, at West Meriden, was opened in 1854. Boys between ten and sixteen years of age, convicted of offences, other than those for which the penalty is imprisonment for life, may be sent to this school, and parents and guardians may indenture unruly youths to the school by paying a sum of $3 a week while they continue their connection with it.

The boys are required to be in the school-room four hours each day, where they are thoroughly taught in the various branches of a plain, practical education, and for several hours are engaged in the workshop and on the farm. The receipts of their labor in 1870 were as follows: from the farm, $1087; from the workshop, $20,887. In March 1870, there were 267 boys in the school. The State supports in part a School for Imbeciles, at Lakeville, and three Homes for Soldiers’ Orphans, located at Darien, Cromwell, and Mansfield, and makes an annual appropriation for the support of patients at the Perkins Institution for the Blind, at Boston. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the total value of church property in Connecticut, was $6,354,205. The number of churches was 802. FINANCES. In 1870, the public debt, over and above the assets of the State, was $6,808,925. Not deducting the assets (sinking fund, bank stock, and cash on hand), the amount was $9,705,400. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending March 31st, 1870, were $1,738,766, and the expenditures $1,227,797.

In 1868, there were 88 banks in the State (6 of which were State banks), with an aggregate capital of $25,994,220. GOVERNMENT. The Constitution of Connecticut was adopted in 1818. Every male white citizen 21 years old and able to read any article of the Constitution, who shall have resided in the State one year and in the town six months, may vote, upon taking the oath required by law. The Government of the State is conducted by a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, and Comptroller, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of not less than 18 nor more 302

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CONNECTICUT. than 24 members), and a House of Representatives (of 237
members), all chosen annually by the people, on the first Monday in April.

They enter upon their offices on the first Wednesday in May. The Legislature holds annual sessions, and meets alternately ill HIlartford and New Haven, the two capitals of the State. There is a Supreme Court of F}‘rors, composed of one Chief Jiudge and three Associate Judges. Appeals fromn the lower courts are heard and decided in this body. Its jud,gment is final and conclusive. The Superior Court consists of six judges, exclusive of those who are judges of the Supreme Court, and has cognizance of all cases, civil or criminal. In criminal cases, where death is the penalty of the crime for which the prisoner is on trial, the court is required by law to be composed of two judges, one of whom must be a judge of the Supreme Court. The judges of these courts are elected on joint ballot by the Legislature, and hold office for a period of eight years.

Upon reaching the age of 70 years, they are disqualified by the Constitution from holding office. Hartford and New Haven are the capitals of Connecticut. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 8
counties. HISTORY. In 1633, the Dutch built a trading house at Hartford, and defended it by a fort. As early as 1631, however, Seguin, the chief of the Indians who owned the lands along the Connecticut River, had sent messengers to Governor Winthrop, at Boston, and Governor Winslow, at Plymouth, inviting them to come and settle his country. His invitation was accepted, and the present town of Windsor, above Hartford, was founded in 1633, by a company from Plymouth, who built a trading house there. This is regarded as the first permanent settlement of the State, although the Dutch trading post was in existence at the time. The first town which was built, however, was Wethersfield, which was established by a company of emigrants from Massachusetts, in 1634. By 1633, three towns, Wethersfie]d, Windsor, and Hartford, were established, with an aggregate population of 750 inhabitants. In 1638, New Haven was settled by emigrants from England, and continued to form an establishment distinct from that of Hartford until 1662, when Charles II. united the two colonies under one government.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1637, the settlers of the Hartford or Connecticut colony were greatly harassed by the Pequot Indians. The authorities resolved to put an effectual stop to their depredations, and a levy of 90
men, half the number of ablebodied males in the colony, was ordered. This force was well armed, and placed under the orders of Captain John Mason, who at once made a descent upon the main stronghold of the Pequots, and inflicted upon them a blow that completely destroyed them as a tribe. The locality where this encounter took pla(e is known as Mystic. The effect of this decisive action was most happy as regarded the other tribes. In 1639, the colony of Connecticut adopted its first Constitution; and in 1662, Governor John Winthrop obtained from Charles II. a charter uniting the colonies of Connecticut and New Haven under one government, the name of the former being given to the whole province. New Haven at first opposed the measure, but at length consented to it in 1665, when the union was finally accomplished. “The charter granted the colony jurisdiction over the lands within its limits; provided for the election of a governor, deputy-governor, and 12 assistants, and 2 deputies from each town-substantially the same as provided for under the previous Constitution; allowed the free transportation of colonists and merchandize from England to the colony; guaranteed to the colonists the rights of English citizens; provided for the making of laws and organization of courts by the general assembly, and the appointment of all necessary officers for the public good; the organization of a soldiery, providing for the public defence, etc. This charter was of so general a character, and conferred so large powers, that no change was necessary when Connecticut took her stand as one of the independent States of the Union, on the declaration of independence in 1776; but it was continued, without alteration, as the Constitution of the State until 1818, wthen the present Constitution was formed. Until 1670, at the general election, all the freemen assembled at Hartford, and personally voted for the State officers and assistants. Thereafter they voted by proxy, or sent up their votes. In JuNly, 1685, a writ of quo warranto was issued by the King’s Bench, and served on the governor and company, with the design of taking away the charter and uniting the New England colonies in one government under a royal governor. Sir Edmund Andros arrived ill Boston, December 19th, 1686, with his commission as governor. In October, 1687, he came to Hartford, while the assembly was sitting, and demanded the charter. It was produced and laid upon the table. 304 I

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CONNECTICUT. The discussion was protracted into the evening. Suddenly the lights were extinguished, and Captain Joseph Wadsworth seized and carried away the charter and hid it in the famous charter-oak. Andros seized the government, which he administered, or rather it was administered under him, in a very oppressive manner. On the dethronement of James II., and the consequent deposition of Andros, the government, on May 9th, 1689, resumed its functions, as if the period since the usurpation of Andros to that time, were annihilated; and as the charter had not n the King’s Court been declared forfeit, it was, after a struggle, allowed to continue in force, the freest Constitution ever granted by royal favor.” During the wars with the French and Indians, the colony bore a liberal share of the burdens, and warmly supported the cause of American independence during the Revolution, in which struggle the shores of Long Island Sound suffered severely from the depredations of the British. New Haven was captured, and its inhabitants barbarously treated, and New London and Groton were taken and burned by a force under Benedict Arnold. In 1814, the famous New England Convention met at Hartford, and during this and the preceding year New London was closely blockaded by the British fleet. During the recent Rebellion, Connecticut contributed 54,468 men to the military service of the United States. CITIES AND TOWNS. The important cities and towns are, New London, Norwich, Middletown, Bridgeport, Waterbury, Stonington, Guilford, Danbury, Greenwich, Sharon, Meriden, Windsor Locks, Bristol, Falls Village, New Hartford, Norfolk, Greenville, Deep River, and New Milford. NEW HAVEN, One of the capitals of Connecticut, and the largest city in the State, is situated on a harbor of considerable size, 4 miles distant from Long Island Sound. It is in New Haven county, and is 76 miles northeast of New York, and 160 miles southwest of Boston. It is on the line of direct communication between those two cities, and from it railways diverge to all parts of New England. “The country round New Haven is very picturesque. Behind the town, at a distance of about two miles, is an amphitheatre of rugged hills, not unlike some of our Scottish scenery; in front is an inlet from 20 305 I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. NEW HIIAVEN. Long Island Sound, affording a safe and commodious harbor; to the right and left, a richly cultivated country, relieved by patches of forest; and, in wide expanse before it, the blue waves of the sea rolling in magnificence. Two large precipices, called East and West Rock, 400 feet high, and about two miles apart, form part of the semicircular range. They are prominent features in the landscape; and events in the annals of our native country, with which they are associated, impart to them that traditional charm which is so often wanting in American scenery. In the fastnesses of these rocks, some of the regicides of Charles I. found shelter from their pursuers, when the agents of his profligate son hunted them for their lives.” *’ Several small streams flow into New Haven Bay, as the harbor is called. Several bridges span them, and connect the city pith the opposite shores. New Haven extends back about 2 miles from the harbor, and is about 3 miles broad from east to west. It is regularly laid out, and is one of the handsomest cities in America. The streets are unusually broad, and are shaded with the most magnificent elms in the New World. Temple street, and some other thoroughfares, are so thickly shaded that the rays of the sun rarely penetrate the thick foliage overhead. The abundance of these trees *

Duncan’s Travels. 306

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CONNECTICUT. has gained for New Haven the sobriquet of “The City of Elnis.” There are several fine public squares within the corporate limits, and also one or two very beautiful cemeteries. The residences are sur rounded by large grounds handsomely ornamented and planted with a luxuriant shrubbery. The principal public buildings are the State House, a stuccoed edi fice, modelled after the Parthenon; and the City Hall, facing the green, a handsome Gothic edifice of Portland and Nova Scotia stone.

The tower, 84 feet high, is surmounted by a spire 66 feet high, which contains an observatory and an alarm bell. The churches, 32 in number, are very handsome, and formn conspicuous and attractive features in the general appearance of the city. New Haven contains several excellent institutions of learning, besides Yale College, and has one of the best free school systemns in the world. It has a good public library, 5 or 6
banks, and is lighted with gas, supplied with water, and traversed by street railways. Nine newspapers and three magazines are published here.

The population is 50,840. The city carries on an active trade with all parts of the country by means of its railroads. It has steamboat communication with Newv York and the towns on the Connecticut River. The harbor, though extensive and admirably sheltered, is too shallow to admit vessels of a large size. It is rapidly filling up. The General Government has made several attempts to deepen it, but it is feared that nothing can resist the course of nature, which seems to be rendering the harbor too shallow to be fit for use. A wharf, 3493 feet-the longest in the United States has been built out into the bay to accommodate vessels, but the water surrounding it is becoming very shallow. In spite of these disadvantages, however, the city possesses some foreign commerce, and an active coasting trade. ~New Haven is extensively engaged in manufactures, and it is estimated that fully one-fourth of the entire population is so employed. The principal wares produced are carriages, india-rubber goods, iron ware of various kinds, boots and shoes, and clocks. “The chief ornament and attraction of New Haven remains to be noticed,-its college, the rival of Harvard University in literary respectability, and honorably distinguished from it by the orthodoxy of its religious character. The buildings of Yale College make a conspicuous appearance, when entering the town eastward; and the erffect is considerably heightened by three churches, which stand at a little 307

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. distance in front, in a parallel line. The ground between the college and the churches is neatly divided and enclosed, and ornamented with trees. Including passage-ways, the principal edifices present a front of upwards of 800 feet. The buildings are chiefly constructed of brick, and consist of five spacious edifices, each four stories high, 104 feet by 40, containing 32 studies; a chapel for religious worship and ordinary public exhibitions; a Lyceum, containing the library and recitation rooms; an Athenaeum; a Chemical Laboratory; an extensive stone Dining Hall, containing also in the upper story, apartments for the mineralogical cabinet; a separate Dining Hall for Theological Students; a dwelling house for the President; a large stone building occupied by the medical department; and the Trumbull Gallery, a neat and appropriate building erected as a repository for the valuable historical and other paintings of Col. Trumbull. “Yale College was originally established at Saybrook, in the year 1700, and was incorporated by the colonial legislature in the following year. The project of establishing a college in Connecticut appears to have been seriously entertained fifty years before; but it was checked, Dr. Dwight informs us, by well founded circumstances, by the people of Massachusetts, who justly urged that the whole population of N’ew England was scarcely sufficient to support one institution of this nature, and that the establishment of a second would endanger the prosperity of both; these objections put a stop to the design for the time; it was not, however, lost sight of. Iln 1718, the infant Institution was removed by the Trustees to 2gew Haven. It was originally intended simply for the education of young men for the ministry: but, as it gathered strength from individual liberality and public patronage, the range of its plan of study was gradually extended, until it now embraces the more essential parts of a complete literary, scientific, and medical education. “The college received its name, in commemoration of the beneficence of the Honorable Elihu Yale, a son of one of the first settlers, who went to England in early life, and thence to India, where he became governor to Madras; and on his return to England, he was elected governor of the East India Company. From this gentleman the college received donations at various times, between 1714 and 1718, to the amount of ~500 sterling; and a short time before his death, he directed another benefaction to the same amount to be transmitted, but it was never received. Another of its early benefactors was the celebrated Dean Berkeley, afterwards Bishop of Cloyne, who II), 0 8

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CONNECTICUT came to America in 1 732, for the purpose of establishing a college in the island of Bermuda; a project to which he nobly sacrificed con siderable property, as well as time and labor. His efforts being frus trated by the failure of the promised support from Government, he presented to this Institution a farm which he had purchased in Rhode Island, and afterwards transmitted to it from England a very valua ble collection of books-‘tthe finest that ever came tog,etlher at one time into America.’ Sir Isaac Newton, and many other distinguished men, presented their works to the library. “Although founded under the sanction of the colonial legislature, and partly endowed by it, thle college was for a long time indebted for its support chiefly to individual patronage: the whole amount bestowed l)y the colonial legislature, during the first 90 years of its existence, did not muchl exceed ~4500 sterling. But when the Federal Government was consolidated, a grant was made, in 1792, to Yale College, out of a fund created by uncollected arrears of war taxes, by which ultimately $60,000 were realized. “The library of the college has recently been much enlarged by the addition of many valuable volumes, selected by Professor IKingsley, who visited Europe with reference to that selection. The libraries of the different societies receive frequent additions. At present the libraries belonging to the institution form an aggregate of from 30,000 to 40,000 volumes. The college possesses the richest mineralogical cabinet on the continent.” * The city was founded as a separate colony, in 1638, by a company of emigrants from London. It was incorporated as a city in 1784. During the Revolution, it was captured by the British. This occurrence took place on the 5thi of July, 1779, and is thus described in the Coniecticut Jour.cul, of July 7th-two days later: About two o’clock on the morning of the 5th instant, a fleet consisting of the Camiilla and Scorpion men-of-war, with tenders, transports, etc., to the number of 4S, commanded by Commodore Sir George Collier, anchoried off West Haven. They had on board about 3000 land forces, commanded by Major-General Tryon; about 1500 of whom, under Brigadier-General Garth, landed about sunrise on West Haven point. The town being alarmned, all the preparation which the confusion and distress of the inhlabitants, and a necessary care of their families would permit, was made for resistance.

The West Bridge on Milford road was taken up, and several fieldpieces were carried thither, and some slight works thrown lip for the defence of that pass. The division under General Garth libeing landed,( immediately began their miarchl toward the town. The first opl:)(osition was made * The Land WIe Live In, p)r. 153-154. 309

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. by about 25 of the inhabitants, to an advanced party of the enemy of two companies of light infantry. These, though advancing on the height of Milfo)rd hill, were attacked with great spirit by the handful of our people, and driven back almost to West Haven, and one of them was taken prisoner. The enemy then advanced in their main body, with strong flanking parties, and two fieldpieces; and finding a smart fire kept up from our fieldpieces at the bridge aforesaid, chose not to force an entrance to the town by that, the usual road, but to make a circuitous march of nine miles, in order to enter by the Derby road. In this march our small party on Milford hill, now increased to perhaps 150, promiscuously collected firom several companies of the militia, had a small encounter with the enemy’s flank near the Milford road, in which was killed their adjutant, Campbell, the loss of whom they lamented with much apparent sensibility. Our people on the hill, being obliged by superior numbers, to give way, kept up a continual fire on the enemy, and galled them much, through all their march to Thlomson’s bridge on the Derby road.

In the mean time, those who were posted at the West bridge, perceiving the movements of the enemy, and also that another large body of them had landed at the South End, on the east side of the harbor, quitted the bridge and marched thence to oppose the enemy at Thomson’s bridge. But by the time they had reached the bank of the river, the enemy were in possession of the bridge, and the places at which the river is here fordable: yet having received a small accession of strength by the coming in of the militia, they gave the enemy a sma-rt fire from two fieldpieces and small arms, which continued with little abatement, till the enemy were in possession of the town, or through the town across the Neck bridge. The enemy entered the town between 12 and 1 o’clock. In the mean time, the division of the enemy, before-mentioned to have landed at the South End, which was under the immediate command of General Tryon, was bravely resisted by a small party of men, with one fieldpiece, who, besides other execution, killed an officer of the enemy, in one of the boats at their landing. This division marched up by land, and attacked the fort at Black Rock; at tihe same time, their shipping drew up, and attacked it firom the harbor. The fort had only 19 men, and three pieces of artilery, yet was defended as long as reason or valor dictated, and then the men made good their retreat. The town being now in full possession of the enemy, it was delivered up, except a few instances of protection, to promiscuous plunder; in which, besides robbing the inhabitants of their watches, money, plate, buckles, clothing, bedding,, and provisions, they broke and destroyed their household furniture to a very great amount. Some families lost every thing their houses contained many have now neither food, nor clothes to shift. A body of militia sufficient to penetrate the town, could lfot be collected that evening: we were obliged therefore to content ourselves with giving the enemy every annoyance in our power, which was done with great spirit for most of the afternoon at and about the Ditch corner. Early on Tuesday morning, the enemy unexpectedly and with the utmost stillness and despatch, called in their guards, and retreated to their boats, carrying with them a number of the inhabitants captive, most, if not all of wlhom, were taken without arms, and a few who chose to accompany them. Part of them went on board their fleet, and part crossed over to General Tryon at East Haven. On Tuesday afternoon, the militia collected in such numbers, and crowded so close upon General Tryon, that he thought best to retreat on board his fleet, and set sail to the westward. 10 11

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CONNECTICUT. The loss of the enemy is unknown; but for many reasons it is supposed to be considerable, and includes some officers whom they lament, besides Adjutant Campbell. Ours, by the best information we can obtain, is 27 killed, and 19 wounded. As many of our dead upon examination appeared to have been wounded with shot, but not mortally, and afterwards to have been killed with bayonets, this demonstrated the true reason why the number of the dead exceeded that of the wounded to be, that being wounded and falling into the enemy’s hands, they were afterwards killed. A further confirmation of this charge is, that we have full and direct testimony, which affirms that General Garth declared to one of our militia, who was wounded and taken, that “he was sorry his men had not killed him, instead of taking him; and that he would not have his men give quarter to one militia man, taken in arms.” Although in this expedition, it must be confessed to the credit of the Britons that they have not done all the mischief in their power, yet, the brutal ravishment of women, the wanton and malicious destruction of property, the burning of the stores upon the wharf, and eight houses in East Haven; the beating, stabbing, and insulting of the Rev. Dr. Daggett, after he was made a prisoner, the mortally wounding of M3r. Beers, senior, in his own door, and otherways abusing him; the murdering of the very aged and helpless Mr. English in his own house, and the beating and finally cutting out the tongue of and then killing a distracted man, are sufficient proofs that thley were really Britons. HARTFORD, The other capital, and the second city in the State, is situated on the right bank of the Connecticut River, 36 miles northeast of New Haven, 124 miles southwest of Boston, and 112 miles northeast of New York. On the opposite side of -the river lies East Hartford, with which it is connected by a long covered bridge 1000 feet long. The city is about 2 miles long by 121 miles broad, and extends lengthwise along the banks of the river. It is laid off regularly in some places, and irregularly in others. Main street, the principal thoroughfare, is broad and well built up, and contains the majority of the prominent buildings. The houses are mostly of brick or freestone, and render the general appearance of the place very handsome. The city contains about 25 churches, several fine libraries, 12,)r 13 banks, and is supplied with water from the Connecticut River, and is lighted with gas. A street railway connects its various points. The public schools are numerous and are of a high character. There are also several fine institutions of learning in the city, the principal of which is Trinity College, founded in 1823. It has three handsome edifices of freestone, a fine library, apparatus, and cabinet, and ranks high amongst the educational institutions of the land. The Asylum ft)r the Deaf and Dumb, the Retreat for the Insane, and the Hartfornl Hospital are noble institutions, and are amongst the most prominent 311

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ornaments of the city. The old Charter Oak was until 1856, when it was blown down by a storm, one of the attractions of the city. There are 12 banks in Hartford, which is also the central point of a number of insurance companies, possessing a capital of between fifteen and twenty millions of dollars. A number of large book publishing houses are located here. In 1868 the gross amount employed in this business amounted to several millions of dollars. The principal public buildings are the City Hall and the State House. The former is a handsome building, the lower part of which is used as a market-house. Tile State House is the finest building in the State. It is surmounted with a cupola, and is 50
feet in width, 50 in height, and 130 in length. Hartford has railroad communication with all parts of the Union, and, except in the severe season of winter, when it is closed by ice, the Connecticut is navigable for steamers. The city is extensively engaged in manufactures. The capital employed in them is over $10,000,000. Firearms and hardware of various kinds constitute tile principal articles produced. The celebrated manufactory of the late Colonel Colt, the inventor of the “Colt Revolver,”

is located here. There are 12 newspapers published in the city. The population is 37,180, and is increasing. Hartford was permanently settled by the English in 1635. The following is an abstract from same of the first laws of the town: 1635.-It is ordered, that there shall be a guard of… men, to attend with their arms fixed, and two shot of powder and shot, at least,… every public meeting for religious use, with two sergeants to oversee the same, and to keep out one of them sentinel….

and the said guard to be freed from boarding, and to have seats provided near the meeting house door, and the sergeants repair to the magistrates for a warrant for the due execution thereof. It is order(ed, that every inhabitant which hath not freedom from the whole to be absent, shall make his personal appearance at every general meeting of the whole town, having sufficient warning; and whosoever fails to appear at the time and place appointed, shall pay sixpence for every such default; but if he’shall have lawful excuse, it shall be repaid him again; or whosoever departs away from the meeting before it be ended, without liberty from the whole, shall pay the likewise. It is ordered, that whosoever borrows the town chain, shall pay two pence a dlay, for every day they keep) the same, and pay for mending, if it be broken in their use. It is ordered, that there shall be a set meeting of all the townsmen together the first Thursday of every month, by nine o’clock in the forenoon, so that if any inhabitant have any business with them, he may repair unto them; and whosoever of them do not meet at the time and place set, to forfeit two shillings and sixpence for every default. 312 ‘t

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CONNECTICUT. The 17th September, 1640.-It is ordered, that…. Woodward shall spend his time about killing of wolves, and for his encouragement hlie shall have four shillings and sixpence for his board, in case he kill not a wolf, or a deer in the week; but if he kill a wolf or a deer, he is to pay for his board himself; and if he kill…. to have it for two pence a pound. This order is made for a month before he begins. It is further ordered, that if any person hath lost any thing that he desireth should be cried in a public meeting, he shall pay for crying of it two pence to Thomas Woodford, to be paid before it be cried; and the crier shall have a book of the things that he crieth. At a general Town Meeting in April, 1643-I was ordered, that Mr. Andrews should teach the children in the school one year next ensuing, from the 25thl of Marchl, 1643, and that he shall have for his pains ~16; and therefore the townsmen shall go and inquire who will engage themselves to send their children; and all that do so shall pay for one quarter at the least, and for more if they do send them, after the proportion of twenty shlillings the year; and if they go any weeks more than an even quarter, they shall pay sixpence a week; and if any would send their children, and are not able to pay for their teaching, they shall give notice of it to the townsmen, and they shall pay it at the town’s charge; and Mr. Andrews shall keep the account between the children’s schooling and himself, and send notice of the times of payment and demand it; and if his wages doth not conie in so, then the townsmen must collect and pay it; or if the engagenienits come not to sixteen pounds, then they shall pay what is wanting, at the town’s charges. At a general Town Meeting, October 30th, 1643-It was ordered, that if any boy shall be taken playing, or misbehaving himself, in the time of public services, whether in the meeting house or about the walls…. by two witnesses, for the first time shall be examined and punished at the present, publicly, before the assembly depart; and if any shall be the second time taken faulty, on witness, shall be accounted….

Further, it is ordered, if the parents or master shall desire to correct his boy, he shall have liberty the first time to do the same. It wats further ordered, in the same general meeting, that there should be a bell rung by the watch every morning, an hour before daybreak, and that they are appointed by the constables for that purpose; shall begin at the bridge, and so ring the bell all the way forth and back from Master Moody’s (Wyllys hill) to Jolhnl Pratt’s…. and that they shall be in every house, one up, and some lights within one quarter of all hour after the end of the bell ringing…. if they can…. the bell is rung before the time appointed, then to be up with lights as before mentioned, half an hour before daybreak, and for default herein is to forfeit one shilling and sixpence, to be to him that finds him faulty, and sixpence to the town. The other cities of the State are as follows: Norwich, at the head of navigation, on the Thames River. It has a population of 16,653, is connected with all parts of the country by railroad, and is the termintus of a line of steamers from New York. It is actively engaged in commerce and manufactures. Bridye,p)ort, on Long Island Sound, has 19,876
inhabitants, and is connected with New York by steamboat, and is on the line of the New York and New Haven Railway. 313

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. It is largely engaged in manufactures. Waterbury, on the Naugatuck Railway, 20 miles from New Haven, is an important place for the manufacture of brass, German silver, buttons, and other smnall articles. It contains a population of 10,876. New London, on the Thames River, has 9756 inhabitants. It is a thriving manufacturing place, and is actively engaged-in commerce, both foreign and domestic, having the best harbor in the State. Norwalk, on Long Island Sound, on the line of the New York and New Haven Railway, has a population of about 15,000, and is extensively engaged in maufactures. Jliddletown, on the Connecticut River (35 miles from its mouth), and Jvest Heriden, on the Hartford and New Haven Railway (16 miles from New Haven), each has a population of 10,000; they are growing manufacturing cities. MISCELLANIES. THE BLUFE LAWS OF

CONNECTICUT. The following is a transcript of the principal part of the celebrated judicial code, known as the Blue Laws, by which it is said the first colonists of Conlnecticut were governed for a considerable time.

Some writers have questioned the genuineness of the laws, and it seems certain that, if genuine, the code was never written, but was declared and interpreted by the select men, the judges, and the pastors of the different congregations: The Governor and magistrates, convened in general assembly, are the supreme power, under God, of this independent dominion.

From the determination of the assembly no appeal shall be made. The Governor is amenable to the voice of the people. The Governor shall have only a single vote in determining any question, except a casting vote when the assembly may be equally divided. The assembly of the people shall not be dismissed by the Governor, but shall dismiss itself. Conspiracy against this dominion shall be punished with death. Whoever attempts to change or overturn this dominion, shall suffer death. The judges shall determine controversies without a jury. No one shall be a freeman, or give a vote, unless he be conve’ted, or a membl)er in free communion in one of the churches in this domninion. No food or lo(dging shall be afforded to a Quaker, Adamite, or.other heretic No one shall cross a river without an authorized ferryman. No one shall run of a Sabbath day, or walk in his garden, or elsewhere, ex(cept reverently to and from the church. No one shall travel, cook victuals, make bedcs, sweep houses, cut hlair, or shlave, on the Sabbath day. No woman shall kiss her child on the Sabbath or fasting day. A person accused of trespass in the night, shall be judged guilty, unless lihe clear himself by his oath. No one shall buy or sell lands without permission of the select men. ( 314

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CONNECTICUT. Whoever publishes a lie to the prejudice of his neigll)or, shall sit in the stocks, or be whipped fifteen stripes. Whoever wears clothes trimmed with silver, or bone lace, above two shillings a yard, shall be presented by the grand jurors, and the select men shall tax the offender at the rate of 3001. estate. Whoever brings cards or dice into this dominion shall pay a fine of 51. No one shall read Common Prayer, keep Christmas or Saint’s day, make minced pies, dance, play cards, or play on any instrument of music, except the drum, the trumpet, and jews-harp. When parents refuse their children suitable marriages, the magistrates shall determine the point. The select men, on finding children ignorant, may take them away from their parents and put them into better hands, at the expense of the parents. A man that strikes his wife shall pay a fine of 101.; a woman that strikes her husband shall be punished as the court directs. M3arried persons must live together, or be imprisoned.

Every male shall have his hair cut round according to a cap. THE

REGICIDES. Soon after the restoration of monarchy in England, many of the judges who had condemned King Charles I. to death, were apprehended.

Thirty were condemned, and ten were executed as traitors; two of them, Colonels Goffe and Whalley, made their escape to New England, and arrived at Boston, July, 1660. They were gentlemen of worth, and were much esteemed by the colonists for their unfeigned piety. Their manners and appearance were dignified, commanding universal respect. Whalley had been a Lieutenant-General, and Goffe a /L,jor-General in Cromwell’s army. An order for their apprehension, from Charles II., reached New England soon after their arrival. The king’s commissioners, eager to execute this order, compelled the judges to resort to the woods and caves, and other hiding places; and they would undoubtedly have been taken, had not the colonists secretly aided and assisted them in their concealments.

Sometimes they found a refuge in a cave on a mountain near New Haven, and at others, in cellars of the houses of their firiends, and once they were secreted under the Neck bridge, in New Haven, while their pursuers crossed the bridge on horseback. WAhile in New Haven, they owed their lives to the intrepidity of Mr. Davenport, the minister of the place, whlo, when the pursuers arrived, preached to the people from this text: “Take council, execute judqment, make tly shadow as the night in tle mnidst of the noonday, hide the outcasts, betowray not him that wandereth. Let mzy outcasts dwell with thee. J~oab, be thout a covert to them from the face of the spoiler.” Large rewards were offered for their apprehension, or for any information which might lead to it. Mr. Davenport was threatened, for it was known that he had harbored them. Upon hearing that he was in danger, they offered to deliver tlhemselves up, and actually gave notice to the deputy governor of the place of their concealment; but Davenport had not preached in vain, and the magistrate tookl no other notice than to advise them not to betray themselves. After lurking about for two or three years in and near New Haven, they found it necessary to remove to Hadley, where they were received by Mr. Russell, with wnhom they were concealed fifteen or sixteen years. After many hairbreadth cs 315

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. capes, the pursuit was given over, and they were finally suffered to die a natural death in their exile. The following interesting incident is related in connection with the sojourn of the Regicides in Connecticut: In the course of Philip’s war, which involved almost all the Indian tribes in New England, and, among others, those in the neighborhood of this town, the inhabitants thought it proper to observe the 1st of September, 1675, as a day of fasting and prayer. While they were in the church, and employed in their worship, they were surprised by a band of savages. The people instantly betook themselves to their arms, which, according to the custom of the times, they had carried with them to the church; and, rushing out, attacked the invaders. The panic under which they began the conflict was, however, so great, and their number was so disproportioned to that of their enemies, that they foughlt doubtfully at first, and in a short time began evidently to give way. At this moment, an ancient mian, with hoary locks, of a most venerable and dignified aspect, and in ad(lress widely differing from that of the inhabitants, appeared suddenly at their head, and with a firm voice and an example of undaunted resolution, reanimated their courage, led them again to the conflict, and totally routed the savages. AVWhen the battle was ended, the stranger disappeared, and no one knew whence hle had come, or whither hle had gone. The relief was so timely, so sudden, so unexpected, so providential; the appearance and retreat of him, who had furnished it, were so unaccountable; his person was so dignified and commanding, his resolution so superior, and his interference so decisive, that the inhabitants, without any uncommon exercise of credulity, readily believed him to be an angel sent from heaven for their preservation. Nor was this opinion seriously controverted, until it was discovered, years afterwards, that Goffe and Whalley had been lodged in the house of Mr.

Russell. Then it was known that their deliverer was Goffe; Whalley having become superannuated some time before the event took place. There is an obscure and very doubtful tradition, that Goffe also was buried here.

PENALTY FOR KISSING. In 1654, a trial took place in Connecticut, under the section of the “Blue Laws” prohibiting kissing. The culprits were Sarah Tuttle and Jacob Newton. It seems that Sarah dropped her gloves, and Jacob found them. When Sarah asked for them, Jacob demanded a kiss for his pay, and Sarah, not thinking the charge extortionate, paid it in full.

Complaint was made by some sour-tempered individual, and the guilty parties were arraigned before tlhe magistrate. The facts were clearly proved, and the parties were each fined twenty shillings. THE DARK DAY.

The 19th of AIay, 1680, was remarkable for the intense darkness which prevailed throughout the New England colonies. At this time the Legislature of Connecticut was in session in Hartford. A very general opinion prevailed, that the day of judgment was at hand. The House of Representatives, being unable to transact their business, adjourned. A proposal to adjourn the council was under consideration. When the opinion of Colonel Davenport was asked, he answered, “I am against an adjournment.

The day of judgment is either ap 316

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CONNECTICUT. I)roaching, or it is not. If it is not, there is no cause for an adjournment; if it is, I choose to be found doing my duty. I wish therefore that candles may be brought.” AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE. The people of Connecticut resolved to maintain their independence of the Duke of York, as their charter was of prior date to that of the Duke. Detachments of militia were therefore ordered to New London and Saybrook, the troops at Saybrook being placed under the command of Captain Thomas Bull, of Hartiford. Early in July, 1675, the people of Saybrook were surprised by the appearance of Major Andros, with an armed force, in the Sound, making directly for the fort. They had received no intelligence of the hostile expedition of Andros, and having no instructions from the Governor, were undecided what course to take, when, at a critical juncture, Captain Bull with his company arrived, and preparations were at once made for the defence of the fort and town. The assembly met at Hartford on the 9th of July, and immediately drew uip a protest against the proceedings of Andros, which they sent by express to Saybrook, with instructions to Captain Bull to propose to Andros a reference of the dispute to commissioners. On the 11th, Major Andros, with several armed sloops, drew up before the fort, hoisted the king’s flag 6n board, and demanded a surrender of the fortress and town. Captain Bull immediately raised His Majesty’s colors in the fort, and arranged his men in the best manner possible. The major did not like to fire on the king’s colors, and perceiving that, should he attempt to reduce the town by force, it would in all likelihood be a bloody affair, hlie judged it expedient not to fire upon the troops. Early in the morning of the 12th of July, Andros desired that hlie might have permission to land on the shore, for the purpose of an interview with the ministers and chief officers of the town. He probably flattered himself that it’fl he could obtain a foothold upon the soil, and then read the Duke’s patent, and his own commission, to the people, it would make a serious impression upon them, and that he would be able to gain by artifice that which hlie could never accomplish by force of arms. He was allowed to come on shore with his suite. Captain Bull and his officers, with the officers and gentlemen of the town, met him at his landing, and informed him that they had, at that instant, received instructions to tender him a treaty, and to refer the whole matter in controversy to commiissioners, capable of determining it according to law and justice. Major Andros rejected the proposal at once, and forthwith commanded, in His Majesty’s name, that the Duke’s patent, and the commission which he had received from His Royal Highness, should be read.

Captain Bull, comprehending at once the artifice of Andros, commanded him, in His Majesty’s name, to forbear the reading. And when his clerk attempted to persist in reading, Captain Bull repeated his command, with such energy of voice and manner as convinced the major that it might not be altogether safe for him to proceed. The Yankee captain, having succeeded in silencing the valiant representative of the Duke, next informed him that he had a communication to deliver from the assembly, and he then read the protest. Governor Andros, affecting to be well pleased with the bold and soldierlike appearance of his opponent, asked, ” What is your name?” He replied, “My name is Bull, sir.”- ” Bull! ” exclaimed the governor. “It is a pity that your horns are not tipped with silver.”

Finding that he could make no impression upon the officers or people, and that the Legis 317

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. lature of the colony were determined to defend themselves in the possession of their chartered rights, Andros prudently gave up his design of seizing the fort. The militia of the town courteously guarded him to his boat, and, going on board, he soon sailed for New York, and Connecticut was no more troubled by his presence or interference until after the accession of James the Second. ELECTION DAY

IN THE OLDEN TIME. Previous to the adoption of the Constitution of 1819, the freemen of the State met annually at Hartford on the first Wednesday in May, to choose State officers. The following description of the counting of the votes, and the inauguration of the Governor, is taken form “I Kendall’s Travels,” published in 1808: I reached Hartford at noon, on Wednesday, the 19th of May, 1807. The city is on the west bank of the Connecticut, 50 miles above its mouth. The governor, whose family residence is on the east side of the river, at some distance from Hartford, was expected to arrive in the evening. This gentleman, whose name is Jonathan Trumbull, is the son of the late Governor Jonathan Trumbull; and though the election is annual, he has himself been three or four years in office, and will almost certainly so continue during the remainder of his life. It was known that the votes at this time were in his favor. The governor has volunteer companies of guards, both horse and foot. In the afternoon the horse were drawn up on the bank of the river to receive him, and escort him to his lodgings. He came before sunset, and the fineness of the evening, the beauty of the river, the respectable appearance of the governor, and tf the troop, the dignity of the occasion, and the decorum observed, united to gratify the spectators. The color of the clothes of the troops was blue. The governor, though on horseback, was dressed in black, but hle wore a cockade in a hat, which I did not like the less, because it was in the form rather of the old school than of the new. In the morning the foot guards were paraded in front of the State House, where they afterwards remained under arms, while the troop of horse occupied the street which is on the south side of the building. The clothing of the foot was scarlet, with white waistcoats and pantaloons; and their appearance and demeanor were military. The day was fine, and the apartments and galleries of the State House afforded an agreeable place of meeting, in which the members of the Assembly and others awaited the coming of the governor. At about 11 o’clock his excellency entered the State House, and shortly after took his place at the lhed of a procession, which was made to a meetinghouse or church, at something less than half a mile distant. The procession was on foot, and was composed of the person of the governor, together with the lieutenant-governlor, assistants, high sheriffs, members of the lower house of the assembly, and, unless with accidental exceptions, all the clergy of the State. It was preceded by the foot guards, and followed by the horse; and attended by gazers, that, considering the size and population of the city, may be said to have been numerous. The church, which from its situation is called the South Meeting House, is a small one, and was resorted to on this occasion only because that more ordinarily used was at this time rebuilding. The edifice is of wood, alike unornamented witlhin and without; and when filled, there was still presented to the eye nothing but what had the plainest appearance.

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CONNECTICUT. The military remained in the street, with the exception of a few officers, to whom no place of honor or distinction was assigned; neither the governor nor other magistrates were accompanied with any insignia of office; the clergy had no canonical costume, and there were no females in the church, except a few (rather more than twenty in number), who were stationed by themselves in a gallery opposite the pulpit, in quality of singers. A decent order was the highest characteristic that presented itself. The pulpit, or, as it is here called, the desk, was filled by three, if not four, clergymen; a number by its form and dimensions it was able to accommodate. Of these, one opened the service with a prayer, another delivered a sermon, a tlhird made a concluding prayer, and a fourth pronounced a benediction. Several lhymns were sung; and among others an occasional one. The total number of singers was between forty and fifty. The sermon, as will be supposed, touched upon matters of government. When all was finished, the procession returned to the State House. The clergy who walked were about a hundred in number. It was in the two bodies of guards alone that any suitable approach to magnificence discovered itself. The governor was full dressed, in a suit of black; but the lieutenant-governor wore riding boots. All, however, was consistently plain, and in unison with itself, except the dress swords, which were worn by high sheriffs, along with their village habilaments, and of which the fashion and the materials were marvellously diversified.

Arrived in front of the State House, the military formed on each side of the street; and, as the governor passed them, presented arms. The several parts of the procession now separated, each to a dinner prepared for itself at an adjoining inn; the governor, lieutenanlt-governlor, and assistants to their table, the clergy to a second, and the representatives to a third. The time of day was about two in the afternoon. Only a short time elapsed before business was resumed, or rather at length commeni ced.

The General Assembly met in the council room, and the written votes being examined and counted, the names of the public officers elected were formally declared. They were in every instance the same as those which had been successful the preceding year. This done, the lieutenant-governor administered the oath to the governor elect, who, being sworn, proceeded to administer their respective oaths to the lieutenant-governor and the rest; and here terminated the affairs of the election day. Soon after 6
o’clock, the military fired three fet de joies, and were then dismissed.

On the evening following that of election day, there is an annual ball at Hartford, called the election ball; and on the succeding Monday, a sgconld, which is more select. The election day is a holiday throughout the State; and even the whole remainder of the week is regarded in a similar light. Servants and others are now indemnified for the loss of the festivals of Christmas, Easter, and Whlitsuntide, which the principles of their church deny them. Families exchange visits, and treat their guests with slices of election cake and thus preserve some portion of the luxuries of the forgotten feast of the Epiphany. 319

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PART III. THE MIDDLE STATES. 21 I.

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Y O PR K. Ae,……. 47,000 Square Miles. ….. 3,880,735 ….. 4,374,499

Area,……. Population in 1860,… Population in 1870,… Is population, wealth, and variety of resources, New York is the first State in the Union. It is situated between 40~ 29’ 40” and 45~ 0’ 42” N. latitude, and between 71~ 51’ and 79~ 47’ 25” W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Canada and Lake Ontario; on the east by Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connecticut; on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania; and on the west by Pennsylvania, Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, and Canada. TOPOGRAPHY. The following admirable sketch of the topographical features of tilhe State is taken from French’s “Gazetteer of the State of New York:” “Su:face.-TlThis State lies upor that portion of the Appalachian Mountain system where the mountains generally assume the character of hills, and finally sink to a level of the lowlands that surround the great depression filled by Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrxence River. Three distinct mountain masses or ranges enter the State from the south and extend across it in a generally northeast direction. The f irst or most easterly of these ranges-a continuation of the Blue R i d g e of Virginia-enters the State from N e w Jersey, and extends northeast through Rockland and Orange counties t o the Hudson, app e a r s on the east side of that river, and form s the highlands of Putnam and Dutchess counties. A northerly extension of the same mountains passes into the Green Mountains of western Massa chusetts and V e r mont. This range culminates in the hi ghlands upon the Hud 323 N E W”T 4

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SCENE IN THE CATSKILL IOUNTAINS. son. The highest peaks are 1000 to 1700 feet above tide…. The deep gorge formed by the Hudson in passing through this range presents some of the finest scenery in America, and has often been compared to the celebrated valley of the Rhinie. “The second series of mountains enters the State from Pennsylvania, and extends northeast through Sullivan, Ulster, and Greene counties, terminating and culminating in the Catskill Mountains upon the Hudson. The highest peaks are 3000 to 3800 feet above tide; the Shawangunk Mountains, a high and continuous ridge extending between Sullivan and Orange counties and into the south part of Ulste(r, is the extreme east range of this series. The Helderberg and Hellibark Mountains are spurs extending north from the main range into Albany and Schoharie counties….

The declivities are steep and rocky; and a large share of the surface is too rough for cultivation. The highest peaks overlook the Hudson, and from their summits are obtained some of the finest views in eastern New York.

“The third series of mountains enters the State from Pennsylvania and extends northeast through Broome, Delaware, Otsego, Schoharie, 324

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NEW YORK. Montgomery, and Herkimer counties to the Mohawk, and appears upon the north side of that river, and extends northeast, forming the whole series of highlands that occupy the northeast part of the State and generally known as the Adirondack Mountain region. South of the Mohawk, this mountain system assumes the form of broad, irregular hills, occupying a wide space of country. It is broken by the deep ravines of the streams, and in many places the hills are steep and nearly precipitous. The valley of the Mohawk breaks the contiiunity of the range, though the connection is easily traced at Little Falls, the Noses, and other places. North of the Mohawk, the highlands extend northeast in several distinct ranges, all terminating upon Lake Champlain. The culminating point of the whole system, and the highest mountain in the State, is Mount Marcy, 5467 feet above the tide. The mountains are usually wild, rugged, and rocky. A large share of the surface is entirely unfit for cultivation; but the region is rich in minerals, and especially in an excellent variety of iron ore. West of these ranges, series of hills forming spurs of the Alleghlianies enter the State from Pennsylvania, and occupy the entire south half of the western part of the State. An irregular line extending through the southerly counties, forms the watershed that separates the northern and southern drainage; and from it the surface gradually declines northward until it finally terminates in the level of Lake Ontario. The portion of the State lying south of this watershled, and occupying the greater part of the two southerly tiers of counties, is entirely occupied by these hills. Along the Pennsylvania line they are usually abrupt and are separated by narrow ravines, but toward the north their summits become broader and less broken. A considerable portion of the highland region is too steep for profitable cultivation, and is best adapted to grazing. The highest summits in Allegany and Cattaraugus counties are 2000 to 3000 feet above tide. “From the summits of the watershed the highlands usually descend toward Lake Ontario in series of’ terraces, the edges of which are the outcrops of the different rocks which underlie the surface. These terraces are usually smooth, and, although inclined toward the north, the inclination is generally so slight that they appear to be level. Between the hills of the south and the level land of the north is a beautiful rolling region, the ridges gradually declining toward the north. In that part of the State south of the most eastern mountain range the surface is generally level or broken by low hills. In New York and Westchester counties, these hills are principally composed 325

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. of primitive rocks. The surface of Long Island is generally level or gently undulating. A ridge 150 to 200 feet high, composed of sand, gravel, and clay, extends east and west across the island north of the centre. ” Riveis and Lales.-The river system of the State has two general divisions,-the first comprising the streams tributary to the great lakes and the St. Lawrence, and the second those which flow in a generally southerly direction. The watershed which separates these two systems extends in an irregular line eastward from Lake Erie throtugh,l the southern tier of counties to near the northeast corner of Chemunig; thence it turns northeast to the Adirondack Mountains in Essex county, thence southeast to the eastern extremity of Lake George, and thence nearly due east to the eastern line of the State. “Thle northerly division has five general subdivisions. The most westerly of these comprises all the streams flowing into Lake Erie and Niagara River and those flowing into Lake Ontario west of Genesee River. In Chautauqua county the streams are short and rapid, as the watershed approaches within a few miles of Lake Erie. Cattaraugus, Buffalo, Tonawanda, and Oak Orchard creeks are the most important streams in this division. Buffalo Creek is chiefly noted for forming Buffalo Harbor at its mouti; and the Tonawanda for 12 miles from its mouth is used for canal navigation. Oak Orchard and other creeks flowing into Lake Ontario descend from the interior in a series of rapids, affording a large amount of waterpower. “The second subdivision comprises the Genesee River and its tributaries. The Genesee rises in the north part of Pennsylvania and flows in a generally northerly direction to Lake Ontario. Its upper course is through a narrow valley bordered by steep, rocky hills. Upon the line of Wyoming and Livingston counties it breaks through a mountain barrier in a deep gorge and forms the Portage Falls,-one of the finest waterfalls in the State. Below this point the course of the river is through a beautiful valley, one to two miles wide and bordered by banks 50 to 150 feet high. At Rochester it flows over the p)recipitous edges of the Niagara limestone, forming the Upper Genesee Falls; and three miles below, it flows over the edge of the Medina sandstone, forming the Lower Genesee Falls. The principal tributaries of this stream are Canaseraga, Honeoye, and Conesus creeks from the east, and Oatka and Black creeks from the west. Honeoye, Canadice, Hemlock, and Conesus lakes lie within the Genesee Basin. “The third subdivision includes the Oswego River and its tribu 326

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NEW YORK. taries, and the small streams flowving into Lake Ontario between Genesee and Oswego rivers. The basin of the Oswego includes most of the inland lakes vwhich form a peculiar feature of the landscape in the interior of the State. The principal of these lakes are Cayuga, Seneca, Canandaigua, Skaneateles, Crooked, and Owasco,-all occupying long, narrow valleys, and extending from the level land in the centre far into the highlanid region of the south. The valleys which they occupy appear like iimmcense ravines formed by some tremendous force, which has torn the solid rocks from their original beds, frolm the general level of the suLrrounding summits, down to the present bottoms of the lakes. Oneida and Onondaga lakes occupy basins upon the level land in the northeast part of the Oswego Basin. Mud Creek, the most westerly branch of Oswego River, takes its rise in Ontario county, flows northeast into Wayne, where it unites with Canandaigua Outlet and takes the name of Clyde River; tlhence it flows east to the west line of Cayuga county, where it empties into Seneca River. This latter stream, made up of the outlets of Seneca and Cayuga lakes, from this point flows in a northeast course, and receives successively the outlets of Owasco, Skaneateles, Onondaga, and Oneidla lakes. From the mouth of the last-named stream it takes the name Oswego River, and its course is nearly due north to Lakle Ontario. “The fourth subdivision includes the streams flowing into Lake Ontario and the St.

Lawrence, east of the mouth of the Oswego. The principal of these are Salmton, Black, Oswegatchie, Grasse, and Racket rivers. These streams mostly take their rise upon the plateau of the great northern wilderness, and in their course to the lowlands are frequently interrupted by falls, furnishing an abundance of wvater-power. The water is usually very dark, being colored with iron and the vegetation of swamps. ” The fifth subdivision includes all the streams flowing into lakes George and Champlain. They are mostly mountain torrents, frequently interrupted by cascades. The principal streams are tlhe Chlazy, Saranac, and Au Sable rivers, and Wood Creek. Deep strata of tertiary clay extend along the shores of Lake Chlamplain and Wood Creek. The water of most of the streams in this region is colored by the iron over which it flows. “The second general division of the river-system of the State includes the basins of the. Allegany, Susquehanna, Delaware, and Hudson. The Allegany Basin embraces the southerly half of Chautauqua an(l Cattaraugus counties and the southwest corner of Allegany. The i’i’ 2 7

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THE GREAT REPUlBLIC. Allegany River enters the State from the south inll the southeast corner of Cattaraugus county, flows in ncarly a semicircle, with its outward curve toward the north, and flows out of tle State in the southwest part of the same county. It receives several tributaries from the north and east. These streams mostly flow in deep ravines, bordered by steep, rocky hillsides. The watershed between this basinl and Lake Erie approaches within a few miles of the lake, and is elevated 800 or 1000
feet above it. “Thle Susquehanna Basin occupies about one-third of the south border of the State. The river takes its rise in Otsego Lake, and, flowing southwest to the Pennsylvania line, receives Charlotte River from the south and the Unadilla from the north. After a course of a few miles in Pennsylvania, it again enters the State, and flows in a general westerly direction to near the west border of Tioga county, whence it turns south and ag,ain enters Pennsylvania. Its principal tributary from the north is Chlenango River. Tioga River enters the State from Pennsylvania near the east border of Steuben county, flows north, receives the Canisteo from the west and the Conhloctonl from the north. From the mouth of the latter the stream takes the name Chemung River, and flowvs in a southeast direction, into the Susquehanna in Pennsylvania, a few miles south of the State line. The upper course of these streams is generally through deep ravines bordered by steep hillsides; but below they are bordered by wide and beautiful intervales. ” The Delaware Basin occupies Delaware and Sullivan and portions of several of the adjacent counties.

The north or principal branch of the river rises in the northeast part of Delaware county and flows southwest to near the Pennsylvania line; thence it turns southeast and forms the boundary of the State to the line of New Jersey. Its principal branches are the Pepacton and Neversink rivers.

These streams all flow in deep, narrow ravines, bordered by steep, rocky hills. “The Basin of the Hudson occupies about twothirds of the east border of the State, and a large territory extending into the interior.

The remote sources of the Hudson are among the highest peaks of the Adirondacks, more than 4000 feet above tide. Several of the little lakes which form reservoirs of the upper Hlludson are 2500 to 3000 feet above tide. The stream rapidly descends through the narrow defiles into WVarren county, where it receives from the east the outlet of Schroon Lake, and Sacondaga River from the west. Below the mouth of the latter the river turns eastward, and breaks through the 328

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NEW YORK. VIEW ON TIIE IIUDSON RIVER. barrier of the Luzerne Mountains in a series of rapids and falls. At Fort Edward it again turns south and flows with a rapid current, frequently interrupted by falls, to Troy, 160
miles from the ocean. At this place the river falls into an estuary, where its current is affected by the tide; and from this place to its mouth it is a broad, deep, sluggish stream. About 60 miles from its mouth, the Hudson breaks through the rocky barrier of the Highlands, forming the most easterly of the Appalachian Mountain Ranges; and along its lower course it is bordered on the west by a nearly perpendicular wall of basaltic rock 300 to 500 feet high, known as’The Palisades.’ Above Troy the Hudson receives the Hoosick River from the east and the Mohawk from the west. The former stream rises in western Massachusetts and Vermont, and the latter near the centre of the State. At Little Falls and the’Noses,’ the Mohawk breaks through the mountain barriers in a deep, rocky ravine; and at Cohoes, about one mile from its mouth, it flows down a perpendicular precipice of 70 feet, forming an excellent waterpower. Below Troy the tributaries of the Hudson are all comparatively small streams. South of the Highlands 3f’ <D

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TilE GREAT RIEPUBLIC. the river spreads out into a wide expanse known as’Tappan Bay.’ A few small streams upon the extreme east border of the State flow eastward into the Housatonic; and several small branches of the Pasaic River rise in the south part of Rockland county. “Lake Erie forms a portion of the west boundary of the State…. The harbors upon the’lake are Buffalo, Silver Creek Dunkirk, and Barcelona…….Niagara River, forming the outlet of Lake Erie, is 34 miles long, and, on an average, more than a mile wide…. Lake Ontario forms a part of the north boundary to the west half of the State.” Between Warren and Washington counties, lies Lake George, sometimes called by its Indian name, Horicon, the most beautiful body of water in the State. It is 36 miles long, with a breadth varying from three-quarters of a mile to 4 miles. “The water is remarkably transparent, and in some parts is more than 400 feet deep. To a passenger traversing this lake, scarcely anything can be imagined LAKE GEOGE. LAKvE

GEORG(E. ID30 I

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NEW YORK. more beautiful or picturesque than the scenery along its banks.

The romantic effect of the prospect is greatly enhanced by a multitude of delightful islands of various forms and sizes, which meet the gaze of the beholder on every side. Of these, if we include many little islets and rocks, there are more than 300: a popular notion prevails that their number corresponds to that of the days of the year. Twelve miles fromi the southwestern extremity of the lake, there is an islan(l of about 20 acres, called, from its position, Twelve Mile Island. A mile farther north there is a high point, or tongue of land, called Tongue Mountain, west of which projects a small arm of the lakle, named Northwest Bay. Here the Narrows, Chat is, the narrowest part of the lake, commence and continue 7 or 8
miles. INear the west end of the Narrows, on the eastern side of the lake, is Black Mountain, the summit of which is regarded as the highest point in the immediate vicinity of the lake, having an elevation of 2200 feet above its surface. About 12 miles beyond Black Mountain there is a rock about 200 feet high, rising almost perpendicularly from the surface of the water. Duriing the French War, Major Rogers, being closely pursued by the Indians, slid down this steep declivity, and landed safely on the ice, leaving his pursuers petrified with astonishment at the dangerous exploit which they had witnessed. From this circumstance, the rock has been named Rogers’ Slide. Two or three miles beyond the place just mentioned, is Lord Howe’s Point) where the division of the English army under Lord Howe landed previous to their attack on Ticonderoga.” The greatest of all the natural wonders of the State, however, are the fanmous Falls of the’Niagara, which lie partly within the limits of New York, and partly in Canada. The Niagara River, as has been stated, forms the outlet of the 4
great upper lakes, and discharges their waters which it receives thlrough Lake Erie, into Lakle Ontario. At the point where it leaves Lake Erie, the Niagara is very wide, but it narrows as it recedes from the lake, and about 16 miles from Lake Erie, it begins to contract suddenly, and the current increases in velocity. This is the beginning of the rapids, which are a mile in length. The fall of the river in this distance is 52 feet, and down this descent the immense volume of water rushes in great swells, until the Falls are reached. As it approaches the precipice, the river mnakes a curve from west to north, and spreads out to an extreme width of about 4750 feet. Goat Island, which extends down to the brink of the cataract, occupies about one-fourth of this space, leaving the river on the American side about 1100 feet wide, and on the Canadian side about double thlis 331

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. width. The line along the verge of the Canadian fall, is much longer than the breadth of this portion of the river, by reason of its horseshoe form, the curve extending up the central part of the current. In passing down the rapids the waters acquire a force which dashes them over the precipice in a grand, resistless torrent, and they fall in a magnificent curve, as they leap clear of the rocky wall into the boiling pool at its base. The fall is 164 feet on the American side, and 150 on the Canadian. The greater volume of water passes over the Canadian, or Horseshoe Fall.” The space between the cataract and the wall of rock over which it dashes, widens near the bottom, the strata being there of a loose, shaly character, and consequently hollowed out by the continual action of the spray. A cave is thus formed behind the fall, into which, on the Canadian side, persons can enter, and pass by a rough and slippery path toward Goat Island. Below the falls, the current, contracted to less than 1000 feet in width, is tossed tumultuously about, and forms great eddies and whirlpools as it sweeps down its rapidly descending bed. Small boats can pass the river in safety here, and a little steamer used to convey passengers almost to the foot of the falls. The river is crossed by two suspension bridges. One immediately below the falls, is used by vehicles and pedestrians, the other, a mile below, is used partly by these, and partly by the railway line entering Canada. Fourteen miles below, the river enters Lake Ontario. The Falls of Niagara are unsurpassed in grandeur and magnificence by any in the world. When the state of the atmosphere is favorable, the roar of the cataract may be heard for miles.

It sometimes rolls over the land to Lake Ontario, and across its waters to Toronto in Canada, 46 miles distant. Anthony Trollope has written of them as follows: “The falls, as I have said, are made by a sudden breach in the level of the river. All cataracts are, I presume, made by such breaches; but generally the waters do not fall precipitously as they do at Niagara, and never elsewhere, as far as the world yet knows, has a breach so sudden been made in a river carrying in its channel such or any approach to stuchl a body of water. Up above the falls for more than a mile the waters leap and burst over rapids, as though conscious of the destiny that awaits them. Here the river is very broad and comparatively shallow; but from shore to shore it frets itself into little torrents, and begins to assume the majesty of its power. Looking at it even here, in the expanse which forms itself over the greater fall, one 332

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NEIW YORK. 333 FALLS OF TIIE NIAGARA. feels sure that no strongest swimmer could have a chance of saving himself if fate had cast him in even among those petty whirlpools. The waters, though so broken in their descent, are deliciously green. This color, as seen early in the morning or just as the sun has set, is so bright, as to give to the place one of its chiefest charms. ” This will be best seen from the farther end of the island-Goat Island as it is called-which, as the reader will understand, divides

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the river immediately above the falls. Indeed, the island is a part of that precipitously-brokenl ledge over which the river tumbles, and no doubt in process of time will be worn away and covered wvith water. The time, however, will be very long. In the meanwhile, it is perhaps a mile round, and is covered thickly with timber. At the upper end of the island the waters are divided, and, coming down in two courses each over its own rapids, form two separate falls. The bridge by wvhich the island is entered, is a hundred yards or more above the smaller fall. The waters here have been turned by the island, and make their leap into the body of the river below at a right angle withl it-about 200 yards below the greater fall. Taken alone, this smaller cataract would, I imagine, be the heaviest fall of water known; but taken in conjunction with the other, it is terribly shorn of its majesty. The waters here are not green as they are at the larger cataract; and, though the ledge has been hollowed and bowed by them so as to form a curve, that curve does not deepen itself into a vast abyss as it does at the horseshoe up above. This smaller fall is again divided; and the visitor, passing ldown a flight of steps and over a frail wooden bridge, finds himself on a smaller island in the midst of it. “But we will go at once on to the glory, and the thunder, and the majesty, and the wrath of that upper hell of waters. We are still, let the reader remember, on Goat Island-still in the States-and on what is called the American side of the main body of the river. Advancing beyond the path leading down to the lesser fall, wve come to that point of the island at whiclh the waters of the main river begin to descend. From hence across to the Canadian side the cataract continues itself in one unabated line. But the line is very far from being direct or straight. After stretching for some little way from the shore to a point in the river which is reached by a wooden bridge at the end of which stands a tower upon the rock,-after stretching to this, the line of the ledge bends inward against the flood-in, an(d’in, and in-till one is led to think that the depth of that horseshoe is iimmeasurable. It has been cut with no stinting hand. A monstrous cantle has been worn back out of the centre of the rock, so that the fury of the waters converges; and the spectator, as he gazes into the hlollow with wishful eves, fancies that he can hardly trace out the centre of the abyss. “Go down to the end of that wooden bridge, seat yourself on the rail, and there sit till all the outer world is lost to you. There is no grander spot about Niagara than this. The waters are absolutely around you. If you have that power of eye-contrio which is so neces 334

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NEW YORK. sary to the full enjoyment of scenery, you will see nothing but the water. You will certainly hear nothing else; and the sound, I beg you to remember, is not an ear-cracking, agonizing crash and clang of noises, but is melodious and soft withal, though loud as thunder. It fills your ears, and, as it were, envelops them, but at the same time you can speak to your neighbor without an effort. But at this place, and in these moments, the less of speaking, I should say, the better. There is no grander spot than this. HIere, seated on the rail of the bridge, you will not see the whole depth of the fall. In looking at the grandest works of nature, and of art too, I fancy it is never well to see all. There should be something left to the imagination, and much should be half concealed in mystery. The greatest charm of a mountain rang,e is the wild feeling that there must be strange, unknown, desolate worlds in those far-off valleys beyond. And so here, at N:iagara, that converging rush of waters may fall down, down at once into a hell of rivers, for what the eye can see. It is glorious to watch them in their first curve over the rocks. They come green as a bank of emeralds, but with a fitfuil flying color, as though,l conscious that in one moment more they would be dashed into spray and rise into air, pale as driven snow. The vapor rises high into the air, and is gathered there, visible always as a permnanent white cloud over the cataract; but the bulk of the spray which fills the lower hollow of that horseshoe is like a tumult of snow. This you will not fully see from your seat on the rail. The head of it rises ever and ainoii out of that caldron below, but the caldron itself will be invisible. It is ever so far down -far as your own imagination can sink it. But your eyes will rest full upon the curve of the waters. The shape you will be looking at is that of a horseshoe, but of a horseshoe miraculously deep from toe to heel; and this depth becomes greater as you sit there. That whicl at first was only great and beautifill becomes gigantic and stl)litme, till the mind is at a loss to find an epithet for its own user To realize Niagara, you must sit there till you see nothing else than that which you have come to see. You will hear nothing else, and think of nothing else. At length you will be at one with the tumbling river before you. You will find yourself among the waters as thoulgh you belonged to them. The cool, liquid green will run through your veins, and the voice of the cataract will be the expression of your own heart. You will fall as the bright waters fall, rushing down into your new world with no hesitation and with no dismay; and you will rise again as the spray rises, brigh}t, beautifuli and pure.

Then you will flow away in your course to the uncompassed, distant, and eternal ocean. a’ 3 5

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. “When this state has been reached anid has passed away, you may get off your rail and mount the tower. It is not very high, and there is a balcony at the top on which some half-dozen persons may stand at ease. Here the mystery is lost, but the whole fall is seen. It is not even at this spot brought so fully before your eye, made to show itself in so complete and entire a shape, as it will do when you come to stand near it on the Canadian shore. But I think that it shows itself more beautifully. And the form of the cataract is such, that here on Goat Island, on the American shore, no spray will reach you, though you are absolutely over the waters. But on the Canadian side, the road as it approaches the fall is wet and rotten with spray, and you, as you stand close upon the edge, will be wet also. The rainbows as they are seen through the rising cloud-for the sun’s rays, as seen through these waters, show themselves in a bow, as they do when seen through rain-are pretty enough, and are greatly loved. “And now we will cross the water, and with this object will return by the bridge out of Goat Island, oil the mainland of the American side. But as we do so, let me say that one of the great charms of Niagara consists in this: that over and above that one great object of wonder and beauty, there is so much little loveliness-loveliness especially of water I mean. There are little rivulets running here and there over little falls, with pendent boughs above them, and stones shining under their shallow depths. As the visitor stands and looks through the trees, the rapids glitter before him, and then hide themselves behind islands. They glitter and sparkle in far distances under the bright foliage, till the remembrance is lost, and one knows not which way they run….. ” Having mounted the hill on the Canada side, you will walk on toward the falls. As I have said before, you will from this side look directly into the full circle of the upper cataract, while you will have before you, at your left hand, the whole expanse of tle lesser fall. For those who desire to see all at a glance, who wish to comprise the whole with their eyes, and to leave nothing to be guessed, nothing to be surinised, this no doubt is the best point of view….. “Here, on this side, you walk on to the very edge of the cataract, and, if your tread be steady and your legs firm, you dip your foot into the water exactly at the spot where the thin outside margin of the current reaches the rocky edge and jumps to join the mass of the fall. The bed of white foam beneath is certainly seen better here than elsewhere, and the green curve of the water is as bright here as when seen 3.) C,

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NEW YORK. from the wooden rail across. But nevertheless I say again tIhat that wooden rail is the one point from whence Niagara may be best seen aright. “Close to the cataract, exactly at the spot from whence in former days the Table Rock used to project from the land over the boiling caldron below, there is now a shaft, down which you will descend to the level of the river, and pass between the rock and the torrent. This Table Rtock broke away from the cliff and fell, as up the whole course of the river the seceding rocks have split and fallen from time to time through countless years, and will continue to do till the bed of the upper lake is reached….. “In the spot to which I allude the visitor stands on a broad safe path, made of shingles, between the rock over which the water rushes and the rushing water. He will go in so far that the spray, rising back from the bed of the torrent” does not incommode him. With this exception, the farther he can go in the better; but circumstances will clearly show him the spot to which he should advance. Unless the water be driven in by a very strong wind, five yards make the difference between a comparatively dry coat and an absolutely wet one. And then let him stand with his back to the entrance, thus hiding the last glimmer of the expiring day. So standing, he will look up among the falling waters, or down into the deep, misty pit, from which they reascend in almost as palpable a bulk. The rock will be at his right hand, high and hard, and dark and straight, like the wall of some huge cavern, such as children enter in their dreams. For the first five minutes he will be looking but at the waters of a cataract-at the waters, indeed, of such a cataract as we know no other, and at their interior curves which elsewhere we cannot see. But by and by all this will change. He will no longer be on a shingly path beneath a waterfall; but that feeling of a cavern wall will grow upon him, of a cavern deep, below roaring seas, in which the waves are there, though they do not enter in upon him; or rather, not the waves, but the very bowels of the ocean. He will feel as though the floods surrounded him, coming and going with their wild sounds, and he will hardly recognize that though among them he is not in them. And they, as they fall with a continual roar, not hurting the ear, but musical withal, will seem to move as the vast ocean waters may perhaps move in their internal currents. He will lose the sense of one continued descent, and think that they are passing round him in their appointed courses. The broken spray that rises from the depths below, 22

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. rises so strongly, so palpably, so rapidly, that the motion in every direction will seem equal. And, as he looks on, strange colors will show themselves through the miist; the shades of gray will become green or blue, with ever and anon a flash of white; and then, when some gust of wind blows in with greater violence, the sea-girt cavern will become all darkl and black. Oh, my friend, let there be no one there to speak to thee then; no, not even a brother. As you stand there speak only to the waters.” The principal rivers are navigable for a greater or less distance, and canals connect the various parts of the State, and afford water transportation along the unnavigable parts of the rivers. The principal islands are Long Island and Staten Island. Long Island extends eastward from the mainland, and lies south of Connecticut. Its northern shore is washed by Long Island Sound, and its eastern and southern shores by the Atlantic Ocean, while the East River, a narrow strait, separates it from Manhattan Island. It is aboutit 115 miles long, and about 20 miles broad. Its surface is generally level, rising only in slight elevations.

The coast is broken into numerous bays and harbors, some of which are excellent. Gardiner’s and Great Peconic bays, at the eastern extremity of the island, extend into the land for about 30 miles. The majority of these bays form the harbors of flourishing towns. The coast is well lighted, and several fine summer resorts are situated along it. The soil is fertile and highly cultivated. Several important towns are located on the island, and railroads furnish sure and rapid communication between them. Brooklilyn, the second city in the State, is located on the extreme western end of Long Island. Sitaten Island lies in the lower part of New York Bay. It is about 14 miles long, 4 miles wide, and is built up with a number of busy little villages. Its shores and heights are lined with handsome country seats, and a railroad extends throughout its entire length. MINERALS. The State is very rich in mineral deposits. Iron abounds. Extensive beds of hematite ores are found in Columbia and Dutchess counties, magnetic ores in Putnam, Orange, and Westchester counties, and the region lying between Lakes Champlain and Ontario is especially rich in specular and magnetic ores. The western counties also containii large deposits of this mineral.

Coal is found in Steuben county, and lead in St. Lawrence, Ulster, Sullivan, Columbia, Waslh 338

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NEW YORK. ington, DuLtchess, Rensselaer, and Westchester counties. Zinc, copper, titanium, manganese, arsenic, silver, cobalt, and bismuth are found to a limited extent. Marble, gneiss, and sandstone abound. Sulphuret of iron is found in St. Lawrence county, and carburet in Essex, Clinton, and Dutchess counties. Mineral springs are numerous. There are fine salt springs in Onondaga (which yield in this county large quantities of table salt), Erie, Genesee, and Orleans counties. Natural issues of carbureted hydrogen exist in several counties in the State. In Chautauqua county, the village of Fredonia is lighted by means of this gas, as is also Barcelona lighthouse in the same county. CLIMATE. In the northern and western parts of the State, the summer is short and hot, the winter long and severe, and the spring cold and damp, and rendered unpleasant by chilly winds. In the eastern section the sea breezes temper the severity of the cold, and lessen the heat of the summer. The climate of New York City is the most delightful in the country, taking it “the year round.” SOIL AND

PRODUCTIONS. In the valleys of the principal rivers of the State the soil is generally of an excellent quality, and very fertile. In the mountainous regions it is poor. The average soil, however, is good, and the State as a whole is fertile. Agriculture is carried on to a very great extent, much care being given to scientific farming. The State is noted for its market gardens, as well as for its dairy and grazing farms. In 1869, there were 14,355,403 acres of improved land, and 6,616,553 acres of unimproved land in the State, whose agricultural wealth for the same year may be stated as follows: Cash value of farms (estimated),……..$1,(000,000,000 Value of farming implemenlts and machinery

(estimated),……………….$38,000,000 Number of horses,……………. 703,120 asses and mules,…….. 1,960 milch cows,……….1,980,300 ” young cattle………..2,450,600
sheep,………….. 3,750,960 ” swine,……….. 4,960,300 Value of domestic animals…….. $108,856,290 Bushels of wheat………..9,750,000

” rye,………… 4,748,000 Indian corn,……….19,100,000
oats………………………….31,250,000 339

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bushels of peas and beans………1,909,339 ” Irish potatoes………28,500,000 barley…………………….4,600,000
buckwheat,………278,109 Pounds of
wool……………………….9,500,000 “
butter…………………….103,097,280 cheese,…………….

48,548,289 hops……………………….9,600,000 Tons of hay,…………..4,600,000 Maple sugar,…………..10,816,458 Gallons of wine…………. 62,000 Value of orchard products (estimated),…

$4,000,000 marketgarden products (estlmnated), $3,800,000 ” homemade manufactures, “. $825,000 ” slaughtered animals,.. “. $16,000,000

COMMERCE. The commerce of New York is the most important of any of the States. In 1863 the total tonnage owned in the State was 1,889,190 tons, of which 848,328 was registered, and 321,714 was steam tonnage. In addition to this, however, a very large proportion of the vessels owned in other States are engaged in trading with the ports of New York. This State possesses the principal harbor of the Republic, and is more extensively engaged in the foreign and coast trade than any other. A very large share of the exports, and nearly all the imports, of the country pass through the port of New York. The share of the State in the lake trade is immense.

Buffalo is the great centre of this trade. The enrolled and licensed tonnage of the port in 1863 was 112,893 tons, of which 50,964 was steam tonnage. In the same year, 7647 American and foreign vessels were entered, and 7729 were cleared at Buffalo. The value of imports from the west by lake and railroad, in the same year, was estimated at $125,000,000. Of this sum, $2,957,021 were on account of imports from Canada. The total value of imports from all sections was $256,214,614. Immense quantities of grain are received annually from all parts of the west, and shipped eastward by the Erie Canal. In 1863, the value of canal exports was $56,644,792. In 1869, the tonnage of merchandise carried through them amounted to 1,000,000 tons, the capacity of all the vessels entered at the ports of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, New Orleans, and San Francisco. In the same year the tolls amounted to $1,278,507.52. These tolls are pledged by the Constitution for the support and repair of the canals, the repayment of the State indebtedness on their account, the reimbursement of the 340

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NEW YORK. treasury for taxation upon the people, and for the support of the State Government. MANUFACTUIES. The State is largely engaged in manufactures, almost every species of industry being represented in this branch of its wealth. In 1860, there were in the State 23,236
establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing 221,481 hands and a capital of $175,449,206, consuming raw material worth $209,899,890, and yielding an annual product of $379,623,560. There were 70 cotton mills, with a capital of $5,427,079, employing 3043 male, and 4288 female hands, consuming raw material worth $2,988,270, paying $1,271,592 for labor, and yielding an annual product of $3,250,770. There were 235 woollen mills, with a capital of $4,598,233, employing 3786 male, and 4255 female hands, consuming raw material worth $4,979,631, paying $1,591,248 for labor, and yielding an annual product of $9,090,316. The other manufactures were as follows: Value of leather produced,…….. pig iron produced…….. rolled iron produced,……

steam engines and machinery produced agricultural implements produced,. “
sawed and planed lumber produced, flour produced,……… ” salt produced,…….. malt and spirituous liquors produced, boots and shoes produced,…. furniture produced,……. musical instruments produced,..

jewelry, silver ware, etc., produced, soap and candles produced,…..

INTERNAL IMPRO VEMENTS. The State of New York was the first member of the Union to engage in internal improvements upon a large scale. In 1817, the great Erie and Hudson Canal was commenced. It was completed in 1825 at a cost of $7,000,000. This magnificent work, connecting the waters of the Atlantic with those of the Great Lakes, is due to the genius and determination of De Witt Clinton, who more than any other man contributed to its successfil accomplishment. The Erie Canal has several branches diverging from it, viz: one from Utica to Binghampton, one from Syracuse to Oswego, one from Geneva to 341 $20,758,017 1,385,208 2,215,250 1, 10,484,863 3,429,037 10,310,000 33,100,000 1,289,000 12,694,000 10,878,797

4,996,092 3,392,577 5,466,463 3,836,503

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Montezuma, and one fromt Rochester to Danville. The next important main line is the Champlain Canal, from Albany to Lake Champlain, which is not far behind the ” Erie” in the extent and value of its trade. The other canals are the Delaware and Hudson, connecting the Hudson River with the coal mines in northeastern Pennsylvania; the Chemung, connecting Senaca Lake and Elmira; the Crooked Lake, between Penn Yan and Dresden; and the Black River and Genesee Valley Canal, which is not yet completed. There are about 873 miles of canal navigation completed in the State. The various routes are all in successful operation, each commanding a large and profitable trade. They have all been constructed by the State. The railroads of New York are among the most important in the country. In 1870 there were 4773 miles of completed roads in the State.

The total cost of these was about $225,000,000. The State is traversed in every direction by roads of this class, which connect its principal towns and cities, and extend into the States lying around it. Close connections are made with the most important roads of the Union, and by a judicious system, inaugurated within the last few years, travellers are conveyed from New York City to the principal cities of the Union without change of cars in the majority of instances, and with but one or two changes in the others. Freights are brought from the far South and the remote West to the metropolis in the cars in which they were originally placed. The New York Central Railway, extending from Albany to Lakes Erie and Ontario, at Buffalo and Oswego; the Erie Railway, from Jersey City, opposite New York City (and lying for a short distance in New Jersey), to Lakes Erie and Ontario, at Buffalo, Dunkirk, and Rochester; the Albany and Susquehanna, from Albany to Binghampton; and the Hudson River and Harlem Railways, the last two fromn New Yorki City to Albany, are the principal roads in the State. EDUCATION. “The institutions of higher education in this. State are mostly under the general supervision of a board styled’ The Regents of the University of the State of New York.’ The Board consists of the Governor, the LieutenantGovernor, the Secretary of State, and the Superintendent of Public Instruction, as ex-offlcio members, and of nineteen other persons chosen by the Legislature in the same manner as Senators in Congress. The officers of the Regents are a Chancellor, a Vice-Chancellor, a Treasurer, a Secretary and an Assistant Secretary, 342

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NEW YORK. who are appointed by the Board, and who hold their offices at its pleasure. The leading duties with which the Regents are charged, are the incorporation of colleges, academies and other institutions of learning, under such general rules and regulations as they miay from time to time establish, and the visitation and general supervision of all colleges and academies. “The Regents are the Trustees of the State Library, the Trustees of the State Cabinet of Natural History, and the Historical and Antiquarian Collection connected therewith. They annually apportion among the academies the sum of $40,000 from the income of the Literature Fund; also the sum of $18,000, or thereabouts, to academies appointed to instruct classes in the science of common school teaching; and $3000 to academies which shall have raised an equal amount, for the purchase of books and philosophical and chemical apparatus. “An organization consisting of the officers of colleges and academies, subject to the visitation of the Board, and called’The University Convocation of the State of New York,’ holds an annual session at Albany, commencing on the first Tuesday in August. “There are in the State 23 colleges, the oldest, Columbia College, having been incorporated by the colonial government in 1754. This college has, in addition to its academical department, a Law Department, and a School of Mines. The University of the City of New York has schools of Art; of Civil Engineering and Architecture; of Analytical and Practical Chemistry; and of Law. “Cornell University, at Ithaca, incorporated in 1865, and opened to students in 1868, has been liberally endowed by Mr. Ezra Cornell. It has also received the donation of land scrip made to this State by the General Government to found an agricultural college. In its plan and object, it combines the advantages of a university with the practical benefits of a school of science and art. - “Rutger’s Female College, in New York City, provides a thorough collegiate course of instruction, surpassing evenil many colleges for young men. “Vassar College, at Poughkeepsie; The Packer Collegiate Institute, Brooklyn; and other institutions for young ladies, offer every facility desired for complete education. “The Superintendent of Public Instruction has the general supervision of Public Schools in the State.

School Commissioners in the different counties, city and town superintendents in the principal 343

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. cities and towns, and trustees in the school districts, exercise a local supervision over the schools in their respective localities. Great improvenlents have been made in the public schools of the State. The schools were made free in 1867. There are four State Normal Schools in successful operation, and four others have been authorized by law. The State Normal and Training School at Oswego has been distinguished for its influence in introducing special methods of primary instruction, known as Object Teaching. During the year 1867-68, 81
academies instructed teachers’ classes in the science of common school teaching and government, under the supervision of the Regents of the University. Teachers’ Institutes are held in nearly all the counties, principally under the direction of the County Commissioners.” * In the year 1870, there were 11,705 public schools in the State, conducted by 5283 miale and 21,230 female teachers. The number of children at school during some portion of the year was 1,029,955. The amount expended on these schools in the same year was $9,929,462. In 1867 the number of private schools was 1433. In 1860 there were 8360 libraries in the State, containing 2,436,576 volumes. Of these 774 were public. In the same year the number of newspapers and periodicals was as follows: daily 74, semiweekly 10, triweekly 7, weekly 366, monthly 69, quarterly 10, annual 6-total 542. Of these 365 were political, 56 religious, 63 literary, and 58 miscellaneous. Their total annual circulation was 320,930,884 copies.

PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The charitable institutions of this State are, perhaps, the most complete and the best managed of any in America. They are under the general supervision of a Board of Public State Charities, appointed by the Governor. The New York Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, located at New York City, was founded in 1818. It is one of the largest and most complete in the world, and is famous for the excellence and success of its system of treatment. On the 1st of January, 1868, it contained 439 pupils. The New York Asylum for Idiots, at Syracuse, to which place it * American Year Book, vol. i. pp. 415-41(3. 344

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NEW YORK. was removed from Albany in 1855, is in a flourishing condition.

Thie number of inmates is 140. The State Ltnatic Asylum is at Utica. It was opened in 1843, and is alwvays full of patients. On the 1st of January, 1867, the numnber was 401. Besides this establishment the State maintains the Willard Asylum, at Ovid, and the Hudson River Asylum, at Poughkeepsie. The City and County of New York maintain a large Insane Asylum on Blackwell’s Island; King’s county has one at Flatbush, and the Commnissioners of Emigration have one on Ward’s Island. There are also several private, and a number of county asylums. The Inebriate Asylum is at Binghampton. Persons addicted to the use of strong drink are reclaimed here. There were 40 inmates in the asylum on the 1st of January, 1868. The UTestern House of Refuge, at Rochester, is for the confinement and reformlation of juvenile delinquents. It was opened in 1849. On the 1st of January, 1868, there were 448 boys confined here. There are three State-Prisons-one at Sing Sing, one at Clinton, and one at Auburn. They are each managed by a warden, and are under the supervision of a Board of five persons appointed by the Governor by and with the advice and consent of the Senate. They hold office ten years. The prisoners are required to labor during the day, and are confined in separate cells at night. The number of inmates in the Sing Sing prison on the 1st of September, 1867, was 1409; the number in the Auburn prison, 927; in the Clinton prison, 507. All the principal cities of the State are provided with excellent penal establishments of their own, and make liberal provision for the support of such charitable institutions as are needed. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860 the total value of church property was $35,1-5,257.

The number of churches was 5287. FINANCES. On the 30th of September, 1870, the total was $38,641,606.40, classified as follows: General fund……….. Contingent,……….. Canal,…………

Bounty,…………. Total………. 345 funded debt of the State ..

$4,040,026.40 .. 68,000.00 .. 11,966,580.CO ~. 22,567,000.00 ..

$38,641,606.40

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The following statement shows the amount of the State debt onr September 30th, 1870, after deducting the unapplied balances of the sinking funds at that date: As provided f,,. $3,031,050.66 50,007.79

9,816,695.39 19,511,39(). 4o $32,409,144.2”6 General fund, $4,040,026.40

Contingent, 68,000.00 Canlal, 11,966,580.00 BoLunlty, 22,567,000.00

$38,641,606.40 The State debt, on September 30th, 1869, after deducting the unapplied balances of the sinking funds, amounted to…….

$34,848,035.73 On September 30th, 1870, to…… 32,409,144.26 Showing a reduction of……. $2,438,891.47 The receipts of the State Treasury, on account of all funds except the Canal and Free School funds for the fiscal year, amounted to $13,846,258.39, and the expenditures to $14,787,804.98.

The gross valuation of taxable property in the State for the year 1870 was $1,967,001,180. The totalState tax amounted to $14,285,976, being a little more than seven mills on tile dollar. On the 1st of October, 1870, there were 292 National Banks in operation in the State of New York, with an aggregate paid-in capital of $13,497,741, and an aggregate circulation of $67,077,668. At the same time there were 61 banks doing business under the State laws, whose outstanding circulation was $2,253,937.50. There were, at the same time, 133 Savings Banks, with assets estimated at $220,000,000. GOVERNMENT. The original Constitution of New York was adopted in 1777. It has been amended and changed since then. The last Convention for this purpose met in June, 1867, and continued its sssions for several weeks into the year 1868. The Government of the State is placed in the hands of a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, Attorney General, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate (of 32 members) and an Assembly (of 128 members).

The Executive officers named above and the Senators are elected once every two years, and the members of the Assembly annually. The election for Governor and LieutenantGovernor and that for the other officers are lIel(
on alternate years. The Canal Commissioners and Inspectors of State 346

Balances. $1,008,975.74 17,992.21 2,149,884.61 3,055,609.58 $6,232,462.14

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NEW YORK. Prisons are elected for three years, one each year. The Canal Appraisers, the Superintendent of the Banking Department, and the Auditor of the Canal Department are appointed for three years by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate. The Adjutant-General and other officers of the military staff are appointed by the Governor. “The Court for the Trial of Impeachments is composed of the President of the Senate (who is president of the court, and when absent the chief judge of the Court of Appeals presides), the Senators, or the major part of them, and the judges of the Court of Appeals, or the greater part of them. It is a court of record, and, when summoned, meets at Albany, and has for its clerk and officers the clerk and officers of the Senate. “The Court of Appeals has fill power to correct and reverse all proceedings and decisions of the Supreme Court. It is composed of eight judges, of whom four are elected (one every second year) by the people at large, for eight years, and four selected each year from the Justices of the Supreme Court having the shortest time to serve. These selections are made alternately from the First, Third, Fifth, and Seventh, and from the Second, Fourth, Sixth, and Eighthl Judicial Districts. The judge (of the four chosen at large) whose term first expires, presides as Chief Judge. Six judges constitute a quorum. Every cause must be decided within the year in which it is argued, and, unless reargued, before the close of the term after the argument. “The Supreme Court has general jurisdiction in law and equity, and power to review judgments of the County Courts, and of the old Courts of Common Pleas. For the election of the Justices, the State is divided into eight judicial districts, the first of which elects five, and all the others four, to serve eight years. In each district one justice goes out of office every two years. The justice in each district whose term first expires, and who is not a judge of the Court of Appeals, is a Presiding Justice of the court, and the clerks of the several counties serve as clerks. “The County Courts are always open for the transaction of any business for which no notice is required to be given to an opposing party.

At least two terms in each county for the trial of issues of law or fact, and as many more as the County Judge shall appoint, shall be held in each year. “County Judges are elected for four years; they are vested with the powers of justices of the Supreme Court at Chambers, are mem 347

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. bers of Courts of Oyer and Terminer, and, with two Justices of the Peace, constitute Courts of Sessions. “The Criminal Courts are the Courts of Oyer and Termniner and the Courts of Sessions. The Courts of Oyer and Terminer in each county, except in the city and county of New York, are composed of a justice of the Supreme Court, who presides, the County Judge, and the two Justices of the Peace chosen members of the Court of Sessions. The Presiding Justice and any two of the others formn a quorum. In the city and county of New York they are held by a justice of the Supreme Court alone. These courts are all held at the same time and place at which the Circuit Courts are held. Courts of Sessions, except in the city of New York, are composed of the County Judge and the two Justices of the Peace designated as members of the Court of Sessions, and are held at the same time and place as the County Courts.” * The seat of Government is established at Albany. For purposes of government the State is divided into 60 counties. HISTORY. The first white man who trod the soil of New York, was Samuel Champlain, a French navigator, who entered the lake to which he has given his name, on the 4th of Jul-r, 1609. On the 12th of the same month, Hendrik Hudson, an Englishman, commanding a ship in the service of the Dutch East India Company, entered the bay of New York, having discovered the entrance to it three days previous. He explored the river which is called after him, as far as Albany; and during the next ten years, frequent voyages for trade were made to this region by the Dutch, and small trading posts were established by them at Manhattan Island (New York City) and Fort Orange (Albany). In 1623, Fort Orange and Manhattan Island were permanently settled, 18 families locating themselves at the former place, and 30 at the latter, which was called New Amsterdam.

The English claimed the territory by right of prior possession; and in March, 1664, Charles II. granted it to his brother, the Duke of York. In August of the same year, the English took forcible possession of the province, which had been called New Netherlands by the Dutch, and changed its name to New York, which also became the name of the town of New Amsterdam. * American Year Book, vol. ii. p. 412. 348

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NEW YORK. NEW YOIK IN 1664. Uncider the rule of James II., the colony was governed with an iron lhald. Large grants of land and odious privileges were awarded to unworthy favorites, but the people at large were oppressed with heavy taxes, and their industry hampered by burdensome restrictions upon manufactures and trade. Frequent conflicts between the authorities and the people were the result of these narrow measures. It was hoped that the accession of William and Mary to the throne would bring with it a change ill the policv of the Government towards the province, but this expectation was doomed to disappointment. The new king was quite as fond of high taxes as the old one had been. Nicholson, the Governor appointed by King James, oppressed the people so grievously, that they rose against him in 1689, seized the government, and made their leader, Jacob Leisler, a merchant of New York, Governor in the names of William and Mary. Leisler held his place for two years, although the home Government never formally recognized him. In 1691, the king sent Governor Sloughter over to supersede him. Leisler and his son-in-law, Milbornie, made some slight resistance to the new ruler, and were arested, tried for treason, and executed. The Indians gave great trouble to the first settlers, and the early history of New York is little more than a record of a continuous warfare with the various tribes of the Five Nations. In 1689, Schenec 349

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tady was taken and burnt by the savages, and many of its inhabitants killed. During the wars with the French in America, many incursions were made into the province by the French and Indians, and considerable suffering was experienced by the settlers. The province bore a prominent part in these struggles, furnishing many men and much money, and providiing some of the best officers connected with them. The country along Lakes George and Champlain was made historical by the events of these wars. The victory over Dieskau was won at the head of the former lake, which beautiful sheet of water was again made memorable by the fearful mnassacre of the garrison of Fort William Henry, in 1757. The fort had been surrendered to the French, but their Indian allies refused to respect the capitulation. The next year, Abercrombie’s army of 16,000 men, the largest and best equipped force that had ever been seen in America, was defeated before Ticonderoga. Besides these important events of the last French war, there were many other enterprises connected with these struggles, in which the colony won considerable renown. New York contained, perhaps, more royalist partisans than any of the colonies; but in spite of this, the people, as a whole, were warm in their resistance to the oppressions of England, and gave a hearty support to the measures adopted by the United Colonies for their common protection. In October, 1775, they forced Tryon, the last loyalist Governor, to take refuge on a British man-of-war. Some of the principal events of the Revolution occurred in this State, which, besides furnishing its fair share of men and means, gave to the cause many of the brightest names which adorn it.

The fortresses of Crown Point and Ticonderoga, which were situated within the limits of New York, were seized by the “Green Mountain Boys,” of Vermont, in May, 1775. The other events of the war occurring in this State, were the advance and retreat of the army of Montgomery and Schuyler, which was expected to conquer Canada, in July, 1775, the battle of Long Island, and the occupation of New York, in February, 1776; the invasion of the State by Burgoyne, in the summer of 1777, and his subsequent surrender at Saratoga, after the battles of Stillwater and Saratoga, in October of the same year; the contests with the Six NatioIns, who had espoused the English cause, and the destruction of their villages by General Sullivan, in 1779; and the evacuation of the city of New York by the British, on the 25th of November, 1783. Imnediately after the close of the war, the State was involved in 350

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NEW YORK. the renewal of an old controversy respecting the territory now known is the State of Vermont. * For some time it seemed that the quarrel would result in open hostilities between New York and Vermont; but it was at length compromised in 1790, as has beeni shown in another chapter. The original Constitution of New York was adopted in March, 1777. It was revised in 1801, 1821, and 1846. A fourth revision was made in 1868.

Slavery existed in New York until 1817, when it was finally abolished.

Indeed, at the time of the seizure of the province by the English, in 1664, it contained, in proportion to its )opulation, more slaves than Virginia. New York was the eleventh State to ratify the Constitution of the United States, wAhichl was done on the 26tth of July, 1788. The western part of the State was rapidly settled after the close of the Revolution, but suffered considerably fiomn the attacks of the British during the war of 1812-15. The State bore a conspicuous part in this struggle. The principal naval depot of the Americans on the lakes was at Sacket’s Hlarbor, on Lake Ontario, and was the object of an unsuccessful attack by the British. The battle of Plattsburg and the great naval fight on Lake Champlain both occurred within the limits of the State, which was also well represented in the gallant little navy which made such a glorious name on the high seas. “In 1796, the’Western Navigation Company’

was incorporated. This company built locks around the Rapids upon the Miollawk, and dug, a canal across the portage at Romne, so that laden boats could pass from the ocean to Oneida Lake, and thence by the outlet of that sheet of water to Lake Ontario. Various plans were brought before the public from time to time for improving this channel of navigation and for building locks around Niagara Falls, so as to unite the waters of Ontario and Erie. In 1800, Governeur Morris conceived the bold plan of bringing the waters of Lake Erie to the Hludson by means of a canal directly through the centre of the State. In 1808, James Geddes made a partial survey of the proposed route, and gave a report highly favorable to the enterprise. De Witt Clinton soon after investigated the matter, and from that time forward gave to the project the whole weight of his influence. The war of 1812 caused a suspension of the work, but upon the return of peace in 1815, the dis * See Chap)ter on Vermont. 351

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. cussion was vigorously resumed; and in 1816, a law was passed authorizing the construction of the canal. The work was actually commenced in 1817, and the canal was finished in 1825. It speedily became the great channel of trade and emigration, and poured into New York City the rich streams of traffic which have made it the commercial metropolis of the western continent. The State has been covered with a network of railways, rendering communication between distant points easy and rapid. The early attention paid to internal improvements, and the consequent development of internal resources, gave to New York the impetus which has placed it first in commercial importance, and given to it the name of’ The Empire State.’” * During the recent war, the State was amongst the first and most active in its support of the Government. It contributed to the service of the Union a force of 473,443 men, of which number the city of ANew York furnished 2(~7,551. CITIES AND TOWNS. The cities and towns of importance are New Yorkl, Brooklyn, Buffalo, Rochester, Troy, Syracuse, Utica, Watervleit, Oswego, Newtown, Poughkeepsie, Auburn, Newburgh, Elmira, Morrisania, Cohoes, Flushing, Hlempstead, Johnson, Lockport, Binghampton, Fishkill Romie, Schenectady, Kingston, Cortlandt, Yonkers, Oyster Bay, Ogdensburg,h, Brookhaven, Huntington, Ithaca, Rondcut, Sauger’. es, and Green l)urg. ALBANY, The capital and fourth city of the State, is situated in Albany county, on the rilght bank of the Htludson, at the head of tidewater and sloop navigation, in 42~ 39’ 3” N. latitude, 73~ 32’ W. longitude; 145 miles north of New York, 164 west of Boston, and 370 northeast from Washington.

It is finely located, the ground rising to the westward, from the river shore to an elevation of ahout 220 fet. These heights are divided into three distinct hills by ravines through which considerable streams of water flow, viz., the Foxen Kill, Rutten Kill, and the Beaver Kill. The ravines have been almost entirely filled up, and the creeks reach the river by means of huge sewers far below the surface. “The view from the most elevated points in Albany is very fine. To the north may be seen the city of Troy and adjacent vilages, and in the distance loomn up the Green Mountains * New American CyclopMedia, vol. xii. p. 269. 352

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N\TE ~0 YOIIK. 353 ALB.A. NY. of’t \eriont. To the east wve behold( a beautiful extent of coutntry stretching b)eyond the IHudson as far as the eye can reach; and to th( southl, the Helderbergs and the Catskill MIountains, wvith the river flowing at their base.” Being situated at the head of sloop navigation, Albany has a large commerce withl all parts of the State. The JHudsoi af’lbrds wvater coimmlunication withl the sea, the Erie Canal coninects it wvithll thle glieat lakes, and the Champlain Canal binds it to LJake Clhamplain and t-li(c lower St. Lawrence. Seven railwvays colinect it with all parts of tlie Unlion. The Erie Canal enters the city at its northernt l,nits. Tlhe boats are thlence conveyed to a large basin covering 32 acres, which lias been formed by constructing a pier, more than a mile in lelngth, which cuts off a(nd encloses a bendl in the river. A safe and fine anchiorage is thus secured for vessels and steamers during tlhe season of ice, and the sides of the basin afford excellent wharfage. The trade brought to the city by the canals is immense, and lTas been the chief cause of its rapid growthl and l)rosperityi. The lumber trade is estimated at about 87,000,0()00. AI)bout 2,00)0,000 barrels of flour, over 23

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‘rHE GREAT REPUBLIC. 3,000,000 bushels of corn, nearly 2,000,000 buslhels of barley, and about 5,000,000 pounds of wool, pass through Albany yearly.

The city is also largely interested ill manufactures. Iron, hollowware, and malt are the principal articles. Large numbers of stoves and large quantities of beer are produced annually. Pianofortes, hlats, caps, bonnets, sleighs, coaches, leathler, are also produtced in large quantities. The city is well built as a rule, and contains a number of handsome edifices. Tile streets are more crooked and irregular than those of any Amierican city, save Boston, but, with this exception, Albany retains few traces of its origin. State street, extending from the river, westward to the Capitol, is the principal thoroughfare. The city contains a liumber of public squares, some of which are handsome. The public buildings are handsome, though not in keeping with the wealth and importance of the Empire State. The Capitol was erected in 1807, at a cost of $173,000. It is a plain building of brown stone, from the quarries on the Hudson River, with a Doric portico of awhite marble. It is 115 by 90
feet, and is 50 feet high. It is surmounted by a dome ornamented with a statue of Justice. In this building are the halls of the two Houses of the Legislature, the offices of the Governor, and Adjutant-General, and the chambers of the Court of Appeals and Supreme Court. Irnmediately in the rear of the Capitol stands the newv State Library, a handsome modern fire-proof edifice, containing more than 60,000 volumes, among which are some of the rarest and most valuable works in print. The State Hall, a large edifice of white marble, stands opposite the Capitol, with a handsome park between them. It contains the offices of the Secretary of State and other State officials. It was ibuilt in 1843, at a cost of $350,000. A new and imposing Capitol is now in course of erection. Near the State Hall, and on the same side of the square, is the City Hall, also built of white marble, at an expense of $120,000. It is occupied by the officers of the city government, and by the city and county courts. The educational and scientific institutions of Albany are of a high character.

They possess many of the handsomest buildings in the city. In addition to the free common schools, the Albany Academy, the Alba)2y Femnale Academy, the State Normal School, for the edutcation of teachers in common schools, and the Albany Unirversity are the principal. The University embraces departments of lawi, niedicine, and science in its various branches, and connected with it is the 354

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NEW YORK. Dudley Observatory, founded by Mrs. Blandina Dudley. The Mer chants’ Exchange, Post Office, and Exchange Bank are handsome edifices.

The charitable and benevolent institutions are numerous, and are liberally supported. The city contains upwards of 50 churches and 6 missions. The most imposing church edifice is the Roman Catholic cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, one of the largest churches in the Union. It will seat 4000 persons. There are several fine libraries in the city, and the newspapers pub lished here are influential and possessed of a large circulation. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure water, which is distributed in pipes from a large reservoir built at an expense of $1,000,000. For purposes of government the city is divided into ten wards, each of whilch elects two aldermen, who, together with the Mayor and Recorder, form the Common Council, or city government. The population, according to the census of 1870, is 69,422. With the exception of Jamestown, in Virginia, Albany is the oldest settlement within the limits of the original thirteen States. Before the arrival of the whites, the Indians gave to the place the name of Scho-negh-ta-da, “over the plains,”

which name the Dutch settlers afterwards gave to an Indian settlement which marked the present site of Schenectady, as “over the plains” from Albany. In September, 1609, Hendrik Hudson, having discovered the river which bears his name, ascended it to a point now marked by the city of Hudson, where he anchored, having spent nearly two weeks in the voyage from the mouth of the river. From this point the mate and a boat’s crew ascended to the head of tide water, the present site of Albany, 27 miles higher up the stream. In 1614, a fort and a trading post were established by the Dutch on Boyd’s Island, near the southern limits of the present city. In 1617, the fort was carried away by a flood, and a year or two later, a new one was built near the present site of Fort Orange Hotel, on Broadway, and called Fort Orange in honor of the Prince of Orange. In 1630, Kiliaen Van Rensselaer, a dealer in pearls, of Amsterdam, bought from the Indians a large tract of land, including Fort Orange, on the west bank of the Hudson, and sent out a considerable colony of Dutch mechlanics and farmers to occupy his new estate. Seven years afterwards he purchased from the Indians another tract lying immediately across the Hudson, and thus became proprietor of a district extending for 24 miles along the river, and 48 miles from east to west. Over thisregion, to which he gave the name of Rensselaerswyck, he exercised sovereign authority, as its 855

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. patroon, committing tile administration of matters of justice and finance to a commissarygeneral. In 1664, the province passed into the hands of the English. Van Rensselaer was secured in his possession of the soil by a new patent fiom the king, but the sovereignty passed to the crown. The Van Rensselaer family still retain a large portion of the orininal estate, and a part of the Van Rensselaer manllsion, built in 1765, is still standing in Albany. After passing into the hands of the English, the settlement, which had been known as Fort Orange, Beaverwyck, Williamistad(t, and the Fuyck, was called Alb)any, in honor of the Duke of York and Albavny, afterwards James II., of England.

Albany received a city charter in 1686; with Peter Schuyler as its first mayor. The selection of the mayor was fortunate, as both he and his family possessed the confidence and friendship of the Indians to such an extent that the savages never attacked Albany, though they made the neighboring settlements feel severely the terrors of their hostility. During the Revolution, Albany gave an active supplllort to the patriot cause, and contributed many troops to the American armv. The defeat of Burgoyne at Saratoga saved it from capture, as tI)at general was miarching directly upon it. Sir Henry Clinton also made two attempts to reach it, both of which resulted in failure. In 1807, Albany became the capital of the State, but it was a comparatively insignificant town until the introductioa of steam navigation and the opening of the Erie Canal placed it in the path to its present prosperity. NEW YORK, The largest and most important city of the State and the United States, is situated in New York county, on Manhl-attan Island, at the mouth of the Htidson River, 18 miles from the Atlantic O(ean, latitude (of the City Hall) 40~ 42’ 43” N., longitude 74~ 0’ 3” W. The city limits comprise the entire county of New-York, embracing Manhattan Island, Rand(lall’s, Ward’s, and Blackwell’s islands, in the East River, and Governor’s, Bedloe’s, and Ellis’ islands in the bay, the last 3 of which are occupied by the military posts of the Federal Government. Manhattan Island is bounded on the north by Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvel Creek, on the east by the East River, on the west by the Hudson River, and on the South by New York Bay. It is 9 miles long on the east side, 131 miles long on the west side, and 21 miles wide at its greatest breadth. It is but a few feet in width at its southern extremity, but spreads out like a fan 356 i

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If. 4 NEW YORK (CITY. .1o, c’.Lx

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0

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NEW YORK. as it stretches to the nortlhward. The soutlhern point is but a few inches above the level of the bay, but the island rises rapidly to the northward, its extreme northern portion being occup)ied by a series of bofld, finely wooded hleights, whichl terminate at tlhe juinction of the llu,lson River and Spuyten Dtyvel creek, in a bold promontorv 130 fet hlighl. These hleilghts, known as Washington Heights, are 2 or 3 miles in lengthl. The southern portion of the island is prineipally a sand bed, but the remainder is rocky. The island covers an area of 22 square miles, or 14,000 acres. It is built up compactly for aboit 6 miles, and irregularly-along the east side to Harleml, 3 miles fhrtlher. Along the w-est side it is built tip compactly to the Central Park, 59th street, and irregularly to Ylanhattanville, 125th street, fr’om which point, to Spuyten D)uyvel creek, it is covered with country seats, gar,dens, etc.

Thlree wagon and 2 railroad b)ri(dges over the IHarlemni Riiver connect the island with the mainland, and 26 ineis of ferries connect it with Long and Staten islands and New Jersey. The city is finely built, and presents an aspect of industry and liveliness unsLrpassed by any city in tihe world. Lying in full sight of tlhe ocean, withl its mag,nificent bav to the southward, and the East anl Hu(lsoa rivers washling its shores, the city of New York 1)possesses a climate which renders it the most delilghtful residence in Americ(a. In the winter the proximity of the sea moderates the severity of the cold, and in the summer thLe hleat is temipered by the delightful sea breezes which sweep over the island. Snow seldom lies in the streets for miore than a few hours, and the intense “
heated terms” of the suiimmer are of very brief duration. As a natural consequence, tlhe city is healthy, and the death-rate, in p)roportion to the population, is small. The southern portion is densely built upl), and between the City Ilall and 23d street, it is more thickly populated than any city in America. It is in this section that the “tenement houses,” or buildings containing froin 10 to 20 families, are to be fouid. In this region there are many single blocks of dwellings containing twice tlhe number of families residing on 5th avenue, on both sides of tlat street, from WVashington Square to the Central Park, or than a continuous row of dwellings, similar to those of 5tit avenue, 3 or 4 miles in lengthl. There is a multitude of these squares, any one of which contains a larger population than the whole city of Hartford, Connecticut, lwhich covers an area of 7 square miles.* Tlhe greatest mortality is * Annual (Cyclopedia, 1861. IHartford at that time contained a population of about 28,000. 357

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TH-IE GREAT REPUBLIC. SCENE IN BROADWAY. in these overcrowded districts, which the severest police measures cannot keep clean and free from filth.

It must not be supposed, however, that poverty alone induces persons to live in such houses. MIany of the most crowded districts are occupied by people, especially foreigners, who wish to avoid the expense and trouble of more conmmnodious residences. The southern portion of the city is devoted almost exclusively to trade, comparatively few persons residing below the City Hall. Below Canal street the streets are narrow, crooked(l, and irregular, but above this point they are broad and straight, and are laid out at regular intervals. Above Houston street the streets extending across the islan(l are numbered. The avenues begin in the vicinity of 3d street, and extend, or will extend, to the northern limits of the island, running parallel with the Hudson River. They are generally 100 feet wide, and(l are compactly built up. The numbered cross streets are usually 60
feet wide, but a few have a width of 100 feet. First street is about a mile and three quarters above the southern end of the island, which is known as the Battery. The main thoroughfare is Broadway, which extends throughout the entire length of MIanhattan Island. It 358

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NIEW YORK. is built up compactly for about 5 miles. There are over 420
miles of streets in the patrol districts, and 11 miles of piers along the water. The’ se\verage is good in the main, but is defective in some places. Upwards of 300 miles of water pipes have been laid. The streets are lighted by over 15,000 gas lamps, the footways are generally made of broad stone flags, and the streets are laid in some cases with the wooden pavement, and in others with the Belgian, or stone block pavenment. Cobble stones are rapidly disappearing. For so large a city, New York is remnarkably clean, except in those portions lying close to the river, or given up to paupers. The city is substantially built. Frame houses are very rare. Many of the old quarters are built of brick, but this material is now used to a limited extent only. Broadway and the principal business streets are lined with buildings of marble, iron, brown and Portland stone, palatial in their appearance; and the sections devoted to the residences of the better classes are built utp mainly withl brown stone or Portland stone, and in some instances with marble. Thus the city presents an appearance of grandeur and solidity most pleasing to the eve. The public buildings will compare favorably with any in the wvorldcl, and there is no city on the globe that can boast so manv palatial warehlouses and stores. Broadway is one of the most magnificent thoroughfares in the world. The stores whie-ch line it are generally firom five to six stories highl above the ground, with two cellars below the level of the pavement, and vaults extending to near the middle of the street. The adjacent streets in many cases rival Broadway in their splendor. The stores of the city are famous for their elegance and convenience, and for the magnificence of the goods displayed in them. The streets occupied by private residences are broad, clean, well paved, and are lined with dwellings inferior to none in the world in convenience and elegance.

Fifth, Madison, Park, and Lexington avenues, and the nutmbered streets crossings tieni, are lined withl magnificent residences of brown or light-colore(I stone and marble. The amount of wealth and taste concentrated in tlhe( (Iwellings of the better classes of the citizens of New York is very great. The city is well provided( with public parks and promenades. The principal parks, commencing at the lower end of the island, are the Battery, containing 10 acres, and facing the Bay; the Bowling Green; the City Hall Park, comprising an area of 10 acres, and containing, the City Hall, the new Post Office, Court House, etc.; Washington Squares about 9 acres; Union Park; Grammercy Park, belol,nging to 359

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TTIE GREAT RPEPUBLIC. C __ Y E x SCEN\E IN FIF i’Il AVEN-UE. the owners of the residences facing it; Stuyvesant Square, about 3 acres, divided in the ceutre by tlhe passage of 2nd avenue; Tomlpkins Square, about 11
acres; Madison Square, 6 acres; and Hamiltoni Square, 15 acres. These are hlandsomtely laid off, with the exception of Tompkins Square, whlich is used as a drill ground, and are ornamiented with fountains, statues, etc., and are kept-in good order by the city. The chief pleasure ground is the Central Park, situated on the eastern slope of an elevated ridge extending along the western side of the island, in the upper part of the city, from 59thl street, on the south, to 110th street, on the north, and from 5thl avenue, on the east, to 8th avenue, on the west. It is two miles and a half in length, by half a mile in width, and embraces an area of 843
acres. It is laid out with great taste and skill, and comprises a variety of landscape, which renders it one of the most beauti 360

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ANEW YORK. VIEW IXN CEN’TRAL ful and attractive parks in the world. Up to the present day the outlay upon it has exceeded ten millions of dollars.

It is divided into the Lower Park, extending from 59th to 79th streets, and comprising an area of 336 acres; and the Upper Park, extending from 79th to 110thl streets. Between the Upper and Lower Parks lie the vast reservoirs of the Croton water works, which cover an area of 137 acres, and have a capacity of 1,150,000,000 gallons. The Lower Park is generally level, and is laid off in lawns, terraces, walks, and drives, with two beautiful lakes, which cover an area of 40 acres; and is ornamented with statuary, flowers, and tastefill buildings. Tile Upper Park is more rugged, and is naturally the more beautifil. It is a succession of charming hills and dales, whose beauties have been increased and heightened by the best landscape gardeners and engineers. A museum of natural history, and the beginning of a zoological garden are located in the Lower Park, near the principal entrance on 5thl avenue; and a museum of statuary has been opened in one of the buildings at Mount St. Vincent, in the Upper Park. The management of the Park is entrusted to a Commission, appointed by 361 PARIK.

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THE GREAT REPI’UBLIC. THE WATER TERRACE IN TItE CENTRAL PARK. the Goverlo,)r of the State. Naturally, the Park is an object of great pride to the citizens, and is one of thie principal attractions to strangers visiting the city. It is usually full of pleasure seekers, of all ages, sexes, and conditions, and it is pleasant to record that no crime, of the most trifling character, has ever been comnmiitted within its limits. In 1870, the total number of persons visiting it, including the drivers and occupants of carriages, was 8,421,427. Pleasure boats ply on the principal lake, and may b)e engaged for a small sum; and “park omnibuises,” or open carriages of a peculiar construction, under the control of the Conmmissioners, convey visitors through the grounds for the sum of 25
cents each. The streets enclosing the Park are being rapidly built up withl elegant mansions, and afford one of the most delightful quarters for residence on the island. New York is the commercial metropolis of the United( States. The local trade of the city is necessarily very great, but its trade with the rest of the Union is enorlnmous, and it conducts a large foreign commerce. Only tl)ree lines of railway enter the city limuits, but 14 lines, terminating on the shores of Long Island and New Jersey, connect it with all parts of the Union. At least 100 steamboats, large and small, ply between the city and the towns on the Bay, the Hudson Riiver, and Long Island Sound, while fuilly as many steamships coinnect New York with the more distant ports of the Union. Besides these, the number of sailing craft engaged in the coasting trade is very large. About 120 first class steamers ply between New York and the ports of Europe, and( about 20 sail to South American, Mexican, and WAVest Indian ports.

Being entirely surround(led by water, New 362

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NEW YORK. York is admirably adapted to commerce. The largest ships can lie alongside of its piers, of which there are eleven miles, constantly crowded with shipping, on the North and East River fronts. During the year 1870, the foreign imports of New York were valued at $315,200,022, and the exports to foreign countries at $195,945,733, exclusive of $58,191,475 in specie and bullion. About twothirds of all the imports, and about forty per cent. of all the exports of the UJnited States pass through the port of New York. In the year 1868, the arrivals at New York from foreign ports were as follows: Vessels. Steamers,……………… 9

Ships……………. Barks,……………. Brigs,……………..

Schloonlers,……………. Total…………………4,861 The domestic trade of New York is immense. Durilng the year 1864, some of the receipts of the port were as follows: Barrels of wheat flour,.. Bushels of wheat,… oats,…. corll,…. B3iles of cottol,…. Packages of pork,4
beef,. ” cut meat.s,. ” butter,… chleese,…. Ti;eres and barrels of l…., I~(~s of lard,…. Bairrels of w,hiskey,… ‘4 petroleum,. ……..

.. *….. …….. In June, 1863, the tonnage belonging to the port of New Yorkl was officially stated as follows: Regis tered-permanent, 609,025; temporary, 237,420. Enrolled-permanent, 745,330; temporary, 17,334. Total, 1,624,000. There was besides, 97,485 steam tonnage. This does not include the vessels owned in other cities and States, or foreign vessels trading, with lNew York. The city is amnply provided with means of communication b)etween its principal points. Lines of omnibuses and street railways traverse the island in every direction, the princip)al car lines continulling their trips through the night. The fares vary from finve to ten cents. More 363 3,967,717 13,4.53,1.-5 12,9,5:-I,238 7,164,,9,5

190,911 i, 3 2, 4,!j-4 2G,9,664 268,417 51-jl,153 7,56,872 186,000 16,104

2S9,4Sl 775,5S7

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. than 400 street cars and 200 omnibuses are engaged in transporting persons through the city. A steam railway, connecting the upper and lower portions of the island, is now in construction.

Communication with the shores of Long Island, Staten Island, and New Jersey is maintained by 26 lines of ferries, employing over 100 steam ferry boats, and transporting, it is estimated, upwards of 80,000,000 of passengers, and more than 3,000,000 of vehicles annually. Tile railway lines leading to the city run over 400 trains to and from points 5 miles and upwards distant from the city. Fourteen railways lead directly to the city. Three of these terminate within the city limits, six on the New Jersey shiore, four in Brooklyn, and one on Staten Island. The hotels of New York are the best in the world. They are built upon extensive plans, and are among the finest specimens of architecture in the city. They are fitted up luxuriously, and afford their guests every comfort and convenience. The principal are the Astor House, the St. Nicholas, the Metropolitan, the Grand Central, the Fifth Avenue, the St. James, and the Grand Hotels; and the Everett, the Clarendon, the Albemarle, the Hoffman, the Colelman, the Sturtevant, and the Gilsay Houses. The Astor is built of gray granite, and presents a massive appearance; the St. Nicholas, the Grand Central, the Fifth Avenue, the Hoff’man, the Albemarle, the St.

James, and the Grand are of pure white marble; and the Gilsay House, a magnificent modern structure, is of iron. These Houses are amongst the most elegant buildings in the city, and each is capable of accommodating several hundred guests. The theatres are numerous, and will compare favorably in splendor and convenience with any in the world. They are more comfortably arranged than those of other American cities, and are much handsomer. The performances are good, as a rule. There are about 30
firstclass places of amusement in the city, including theatres, concert halls, lecture rooms, music halls, circuses, summer gardens, etc., besides a number of inferior places. It is estimated that during the fall and winter season about 30,000 persons nightly attend the performances at these places. The principal telegraph lines of the country begin or terminate in New York. There is also a line connecting the principal points of the city, and used for local business. The public buildings are numerous and imposing, and the city is surpassed by only a few of the capitals of Europe in this respect. 364

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Ni’EW YORK. CITY HALL. The City Hall is a fine edifice of white marble, 216 feet in length, situated in the City Hall Park. The foundation was laid in 1803, and the building was opened for the use of the municipal Government in 1812. It is handsomely furnished and decorated with paintings and statuary. The County Court House, in the rear of the City Hall, is a splendid building of white marble in the Italian style of architecture, 250 feet long, 150 feet wide, and 3 stories hig’h, the whole being surmounted by a fine dome, the summit of which will be 210 feet above the street. The Custoi House, on ~assau street, corner of William, is a splendid building of Quincy granite, erected for a Merchants’

Exchlange, at a cost of over $1,800,000, including the ground. It is entirely fire proof, and covers the whole block, being 200 feet long, by 171 to 144 feet wide, and 124 feet to the top of the dome. The front is ornamented with a portico, resting on 18 massive Ionic columns. - The Sub-Treasury of the United States, on Al/all and Nassau streets, is built of white marble, in the Doric style. It cost, including the ground, $1,195,000. The Gall of Justiec, or the “Toiizbs,” on Centre street, between Leonard and Frankllin, includes 365

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC the lhalls of the Court of Sessions, and the police courts, and the city prison. The prison contains 150 cells. The building is in the Egyp tian style of architecture, is constructed of light granite, and is 253 feet long, by 200 wide. The Literary and Scientific institutions are numerous. There are about 260 free schools in the city, 89 of which are primiary, and 15 for colored children. The buildings used are mostly of b)rick, are large, and are provided with every convenience.

The annual atten dance is about 209,000. They are liberally supported by the city. Besides these, a number of private institutions are supported in part by the city. The University of Newv York occupies a gothic building of white marble, on University place, opposite Washington Square. It was founded in 1831. It has about 25 professors and tutors, and about 336
students. Its library contains over 5000 volumes. The New York Free College, Lexington avenue and 23d street, is a handsome building, erected in 1848. The students, whose number is limited to 1000, are chosen from the pupils of the public schools only, and here receive a thoroughly collegiate education free of charge. The Cooperi Institute, on Astor place, is an imposing building of brown stone, erected at a cost of $600,000, and presented to the city of New York by Peter Cooper, Esq. It contains a free reading-room and library, and affords a free education for the poorer classes in the practical arts and sciences. One of its departments is a school of design for women. .The basement is occupied by an immense lecture-room. The General Theological Seminary, West 20th street, between 9th and 10th avenues, is the principal school of the Protestant Episcopal Church. The other institutions of importance are Columbia College, 49th street, between Madison and 4th avenues; the Lycetem of Natural History, the Union Theoloyical Seminary, the New York Historical Society, the American Geographiccal and Statistical Soeiety, the New York Law Iistitute, the College of St. Francis Xavier, the College of Physicians and Surgeons, the College of Pharmacy, and R?utgers’ Femrale College. The Libraries are excellent. Thle principal is the Astor Library, founded by John Jacob Astor, and enlarged by his son William B. Astor. The collection numbers over 150,000 volumes. It is free to the public, and is open daily (Sundays and holidays excepted), from 9 to 5 o’clock. The books cannot be taken from the reading-room. The 3Iercantile Library, in Clinton Hall, Astor place, contains about 90,000 volumes. Its privileges are extended only to members, who 366

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NEW YORK. NEWV IUILDING OF TIlE YOUNG M’EN’S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION, NEW

YORK. pay a small subscription annually. The Society Library, 67

University place, contains over 55,000 volumes, and consists of one of the most valuable collections of books in the city. Its privileges are limited to members and such friends as they may introduce. The ANew Yokek Histor?ical Library, 2d avenue and lltli street, contains over 30,000
volumes, and a valuable collection of coins and antiquities. Tile others are the Apprentices’ Library, 18,000 volumes; Armericcai Itnstitute Librcary, 10,000 volumes; City Library, 5000 volumes; Law Institute Library; Young Men’s Christian Associatioit Library, about 15,000 volumes; General I’heological Seminary Library, 18,000 volumes; and the Library of the Union Theotogical Seminamry, 26,000 volumes. The Art Galleries are, the National Academy of Design, whose elegant hall, at the corner of 4th avenue and 23d street, forms one of the chief ornaments of the city; and the Artists’ Fuiid Society. The monuments, fountains, etc., are few in number, and insignificant in appearance. The principal are the Worth Monument, at the intersection of Broadway and 5th avenue; and the Martyrs’

Monument, in Trinity Church-yard. The churches are numerous and represent every denomination of Christians. Many are magnificent structures, erected at great ex 367

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TITHE GPREAT REPUBLIC. peilse alnd in the highest style of art. The principal is Trinity Church, Protestant Episcopal, on Broadway, opposite Wall street. It was founded in 1696, and the present is the third edifice which has marked the site, the others having been destroyed by fire. The present church was begun in 1839, and completed in 1846. It is ] 92 feet by 80 feet, and 60 feet high. The steeple is 284 feet high, and from it the best view of the city and suburbs, the bay, etc., is to be ob)tained.

The church is of brown stone, and is beautifully orna mented with carvings, sculptures, stained-glass windows, etc. The spire contains a clock and a fine chime of bells. The church is situ ated in the midst of an old graveyard, which is one of the most inter esting, spots in the city. Trinity Church is tlhe richest church in the Union, its property being estimated at over $60,000,000. G-ace Chuirch, Protestant Episcopal, Broadway and 10th street, is a beautiful stru(cture of light-colored stone, built in 1845. The interior is very fine. The others, conspicuous for their elegance andI splendor, are St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Romian Catholic), now building, on 5th avenue and 50thll street, St. George’s, Trinity Chlapel, St. Paul’s (AMethodist), St. Stephlen’s (Roaanl Catholic), and the Temple Emmanuel (Jewish). The Bible Houtse, occupying the square bounded by 3d and 4th avenues, and 8thl and 9thl streets, is a massive brick structare, and is the property, and the scene of the operations, of the American Bible Society. Upwards of 500 operatives are emplo:’-d here. The Charitable and Benevolent Institutions are numerous, and of high and useful character. The New York Hospital, on West 59thl near the Park, the itstitution for the Blind, the Deaf and Dumb Asyl, the Bloominydale Asyltt,), for the Insane, the New York Oi-)ha Asylion (besides which nearly all the religious denominations have similar institutions of their own), the Bellevue Hospital, St. Luke’s Hospfital, the Five Points Ylission, the Home of I]iust’y, the New York Jurvenile Asylum, the iiistitutioz for the Deaf and (Dumb, the Anmerican Female Guardian Society, the Eye and Ear Infirmary, the City Dispensar?ies (of which there are 8), and the Lyiny-in Iospitals, are the principal. Large sums are annually expended for charitable and benevolent purposes, by the city and the citizens. The prisons of the city, with the exception of the Tombs, are located on Blackwell’s Island. The city also provides a refuge for juvenile delinquents on Randall’s Island, and a hospital for emigrants on Ward’s Island. All of these are provided with splendid and spacious buildings. 368

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NEW YORK. The cemeteries lie out of the city limits, with the exception of that )belonging to Trinity Parish, which is located on the Hudson, near Washington Heights. The others number 12, and are situated on Long Island and in Westchester county. The principal are Green wood and Calvary on Long Island, and Woodlawn in Westchester county. The journals of New York stand at the head of the American press. The principal dailies are the Herald, Tribune, Times, World, Sui, Standard, Evening Post, Express, and Evening Mail. There are 140 newspapers and periodicals published in the city, claiming a circula tion of over 5000 copies. New York is also the principal place in the Union for the publication of books. The office of the New York Herald is one of the handsomest buildings in the city. The city is supplied with pure water by means of the Croton Aque duct, from the Croton River, a small stream in Westchester county. The total length of the Aqueduct, to the reservoirs in the Central Park, is about 38 miles.

It was begun in 1837, and completed in 1842, at an expense of $10,375,000.

It is the largest and most magnificent of all modern constructions of its class, and supplies the city with an abundance of pure and delightful drinking water. The water is conducted by the Aqueduct from the Croton River to the reservoirs at the High Bridge (on which bridge it crosses the Harlem River) and those in the Central Park, from which it is distributed over the city in large iron pipes, there being a small distributing reservoir on 5th avenue, at the corner of 42d street. The buildings, both public and private, of the city are thoroughly supplied with water.

Upwards of 300 miles of water pipes have been laid through the streets, and every portion of the city is well supplied in this respect. The capacity of all the reservoirs is nearly 2,000,000,000 of gallons. The city is lighted with gas, which is supplied by several private companies.

There are upwards of 15,000 gas lamps in the streets, which burn from dusk until dawn. The city is divided into 22 wards, and is governed by a Mayor and Common Council, elected by the people. The Mayor is chosen once in two years. The council is divided into a Board of Aldermen, 17 in number, elected for two years, and a Board of Councilmen, 25 in number, chosen annually. The police force consists of a Board of Commissioners, to whom the direct control of the force is entrusted, a Marshal, and about 2100
officers and men. They are dressed in a neat uniform of dark blue cloth, are armed with clubs and revolvers, 24 369

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THIIE GREXAT REPUBLIC. HIGHII BRIDGE, HIARLEM. and are drilled regularly in military tactics. There are 33 precincts, including the detective squad. The force is charged with the duty of guarding about 300 day and 400 night posts, about 425 miles of streets, and 14 miles of piers. There are 25 station houses fitted up with lodging rooms for the men, and having rooms also for the accommodation of wandering or destitute persons, large numbers of whom thus receive temporary shelter. The Fire Department is under the control of a Board of Commissioners. It consists of a Chief Engineer, an Assistant Engineer, 10 District Engineers, and over 500 men and 46 horses. There are 34 steam fire engines, 4 hand engines, and 12
hook and ladder companies in the department. The men are regularly enlisted, and are paid by the city. There is a fire alarm telegraph, with about 800 stations, extending through the city, and it is so arranged that the most inexperienced person can at once telegraph the exact location of a fire to all the engine houses in the city. It requires but 15 seconds in the day, and one minute at night, to get the engines ready for action and start them’on the way to a fire. A system of fire patrols is maintained by the city and by the insurance companies. There are also a number of lofty lookout towers, from which a constant watch is kept. According to the United States census of 1870, the population of New Yorkl is 9-12,337.

There can be no doubt, however, that the 370

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NEW YORK. actual population is over 1,000,000. The rate at which the city has grown is shown by the following table:.. 165……………

……..……..*.,0 Population. . 1,000 1 10,381 . 60,489 . 123,706 .

202,589 . 312,852 ~ 515,547 . 814,.287 18………..*…..

182………………….*** 183……………………….***258

1……..~……..~. ~5 1860,…………….. On the 12th of September, 1609, Henry Hudson, an English navigator in the service of the Dutch East India Company, discovered Manhattan Island. The Dutch made a temporary settlement on the island in 1612, and established a permanent colony in 1623, when a fort was built, and the settlement named New Amsterdam. The first white child, Sarah Rapelje, was born in the same year, and in 1626, Peter Minuits, the Dutch Governor, arrived. In 16.33, a new fort was begun on the present site of the Battery. Previous to 1638 tobacco was cultivated and slavery was introduced. Inl 1656, there were 1000
inhabitants and 120 houses in the town; in 1658, wharfs were constructed, and in 1662 a windmill was.built.:In August, 1664, an English fleet arrived in the bay, and took possession of the town in the name of the King of England. No resistance was offered, and the name of the town was changed to New York, in honor of; the Duke of York and Albany, afterwards James II., to whom Charles II. had granted the entire province. In July, 1673, the Dutch fleet recaptured the town, drove out the English, and named it New Orange. The peace between Great Britain and the Dutch, which closed the war, restored the town to the English, November 10th, 1674, and the name of New York was resumed. The Dutch Government was replaced by the English system under a.iberal charter, and during the remainder of the seventeenth century the town. grew rapidly in population and size. In 1700, New York contained 4500 white, and 750 black inhabitants, and about 750 dwellings.. In 1689, there was a brief disturbance, known as Leisler’s Rebellion.. In 1702, a terrible fever was brought from St., Thomas’, and carried off 600 persons, one-tenth of the’whole population. In 1696, the first Trinity Church was built, and in 1719, the first Presbyterian Church was built. In 1711, a slave market was established; in 1725, the N’ew York Gazette, the fifth of the Colonial newspapers, was estab 371 Year. 1656, 1756, 1800, 1820, 1830, 1840, 1850, 1,860.,

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. lished; in 1732, stages ran to Boston, the journey occupying 14 days; and in 1735, the people made their first manifestation of hostility to Great Britain, which was drawn forth by the infamous prosecution by the officers of the Crown of Rip Van Dam, who had been the acting Governor of the town. In 1741, a severe fire occurred in the lower part of the city, destroying the old Dutch fort and the Dutch church, and in the same year the yellow fever raged with great violence. The principal event of the year, however, was the so-called negro plot for the destruction of the town. Though the reality of the plot was never proved, the greatest alarm prevailed; the fire in the fort was declared to be the work of the negroes, numbers of whom were arrested; and upon the sole evidence of a single servant girl a number of the poor wretches were hanged. Several whites were also charged with being accomplices of the negroes. One of these, John Ury, a Roman Catholic priest, and, as is now believed, an innocent man, was hanged in August. In the space of six months 154 negroes and 20 whites were arrested; 20 negroes were hanged, 13
were burned at the stake, and 78 were transported. The rest were discharged. In 1750 a theatre was established, and in 1755 St. Paul’s Church was built. New York took a prominent part in the resistance of the Colonies to the aggressions of the mother country, and, in spite of the presence of a large number of Tories, responded cordially to the call of the Colonies for men and money during the war. On the 26th of August, 1776, the battle of Lonig Island having been lost by the Americans, the city was occupied by the British, who held it until the close of the war.

It suffered very much at their hands. Nearly all the churches, except the Episcopal, were occupied by them as prisons,?iding-schools, and stables; and the schools and colleges were closed. On the 21st of September, 1776, a fire destroyed 493 houses, all the west side of Broadway from Whitehall to Barclay street, or about one-eighth of the city; and on the 7th of August, 1778, about 300 buildings on East River were burned. On the 25th of November, 1783, the British evacuated the city, which was at once occupied by the American army. In 1785 the first Federal Congress met in the City Hall, which stood at the corner of Wall and Nassau streets, and on the 30th of April 1789, George Washington was inaugurated first President of the United States on the same spot. By 1791 the city had spread to the lower end of the present City Hall Park, and was extending along the Boston Road (Bowery) and Broadway. In 1799, the Manhattan 372

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NEW YORK. UNION SQUARE. STATUE OF WASIIINGTOX. Company, for supplying the city with fresh water, was chartered. On the 20th of September, 1803, the cornerstone of the City Hall was laid. Free schools were established in 1805. In the same year the yellow fever raged with violence, and had the effect of spreading the population by driving them up the island, where many located themselves permanently. In 1807, Robert Fulton navigated the first steamboat from New York to Albany. The War of 1812-15 for a while stopped the growth of the city, but after the return of peace, its onward progress was resumed. In August, 1812, experimental gas lamps were placed in the Park, though the use of gas for purposes of lighting was not begun until 1825. In 1822, the yellow fever again drove the population higher up the island, and caused a rapid growth of the city above Canal street. In 1825, the Erie Canal was completed. This great work, by placing the trade of the West in the hands of New York, gave a powerful impetus to the growth of the city, which was now increasing at the rate of from 1000 to 1500 houses per year. In 1832 and 1834, the cholera raged severely, carrying off upwards of 4484 persons in the two years. In 1835, the “great fire” occurred. This terrible conflagration (December 16th) laid 648
houses, almost the entire business portion of the city, south of Wall street, and east of Broadway, in 373

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ashes, and inflicted a loss of more than $18,000,000
upon the city. New York rose from this disaster with wonderful energy and rapidity, but only to meet, in 1837, the most terrible commercial crisis that had ever been known in the country. Even this did not check the growth of the city, the population increasing 110,100 between 1830 and 1840. In 1842, the Croton water was introduced. In 1849 and 1854, the cholera again appeared, killing over 5400 persons. In 1852, the first street railway was built. In 1858, the Central Park was begun. Since then the city has grown rapidly in extent and population, and is fast becoming one of the most beautiful and brilliant in the world. It possesses every advantage for rapid improvement, and is moving on surely to the accomplishment of a glorious destiny. BROOKLIYN, The second city in the State, and the third city in the United States, is situated in Kings county, on the western end of Long Island, immediately opposite the city of New York, from which it is separated by the East River. The city extends from Newtown Creek, including Green Point, to the boundary below Greenwood, a direct distance of 71 miles, and nearly 10 miles following the lowv-water line. From the river it stretches back inland for about 4
miles. The city proper is divided into the Western District (W. D.), Williamsburg, Greenpoint, the Eastern District (E. D.), and South Brooklyn. The ground on which the city is located is for the most part flat and low, and was formerly marshy, but a portion of the city is built upon a line of bold heights overlooking the bay, and commanding a fine view of New York and the harbor. The general appearance of the city is handsome and attractive. It is well built, and some portions of it will compare favorably with New York. The streets are broad, straight, and wellpaved, and many of them are delightfully shaded with noble trees.

Brooklyn covers nearly as much ground as New York, but its population is only about one-third as great, and(l is not so much crowded. Small houses are the rule in this city, large residences being rare, except in the wealthier quarters. Many of the streets are lined with tastefuil cottage residences, in front of which are yards of considerable size, ornamniented with flowers, shrubbery, etc. The site of Brooklyn was originally very irregular, but the constant improvements which have been carried on during the growth of the city have very much changed the primitive appearance of the land. Immediately opposite the lower end of New York, is a ridge 70
feet 374

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:NEW YORK. above the level of the East River, known as “The Heights.” This is the wealthiest and most fashionable quarter of Brooklyn, though it is now rapidly giving way to business edifices. The principal tho roughfare is Fulton street, stretching from the Fulton Ferry to the City Hall, from which point it turns abruptly to the eastward, and extends to the city limits, under the name of Fulton avenue. It is enclosed as far as the City Hall, about one mile, with large and hand some stores and offices. From the City Hall eastward, it is less sub stantially built. The proximity of Brooklyn to New York and its facilities for economical living have been the chief causes of its rapid growth. Thousands of persons living in Brooklyn conduct their business in New York, and pass and repass between the cities daily. The trade of Brooklyn is mostly local. The city is largely engaged in manufactures, but its productions are sold chiefly through New York. Large quantities of tobacco are manufactured here, and the city has a large trade in flour, sugar and whiskey. The public buildings are among the handsomest in the country. The City HIall, at the southern end of Fulton street, is an imposing edifice of white marble, 162
by 102 feet, and 75 feet high, surmounted by a dome, the top of which is 153 feet fromnt the ground. It was erected at a cost of $200,000. Just in the rear of the City Hall, and fronting on Joralemon street, is the County Court House, 140 feet wide, and 315 feet deep, built of white marble, in the Corinthian style of architecture. It cost $543,000. The Academy of Jlusic, and the Mercantile Library, on Montague street, are built in the modern Gothic style, of a fine quality of brick ornamented with stone, and are among the handsomest buildings in the city. There are nearly 200
churches in Brooklyn, in consequence of which the place is frequently called “The City of Churches.” Some of these are magnificent edifices, but the majority are simple and modest in their appearance. They are all in prosperous condition, and there are, perhaps, few cities in the land whose church finances make so favorable a showing as those of Brooklyn. The city is well supplied with public schools of every grade, and contains a number of thriving private schools and academies. The average attendance is over 50,000. There are also schools for colored children. During the year ending February 1st, 1864, tlhe amount expended by the city for purposes of education was $229,845.61. The Literary Institutions are of a high character. The Mercantile 375

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Library contains about 35,000 volumes, and is supported by the subscriptions of its members. The Loi-g Island Historical Society possesses a fine oollection of 15,000 volumes, besides numerous manuscripts and historical relics. The United States Lyceum is located in the Navy Yard, and possesses a large and valuable collection of curiosities, geological and mineralogical specimens. The Lyceum, in Washington street, possesses a splendid granite building and a fine lecture hall. The Art Association holds two exhibitions in each year.

Besides these, are the Philharmonic Society, and several other societies devoted to literary, scientific, and musical ends. The Charitable Institutions are the Long Island College Hospital; the City Hospital, in Raymond street, with beds for 170 patients; the Graham Institution, for the relief of respectable aged, indigent females; the Orp)han Asyltum of the City of Brooklyn, which shelters about 150 children; the Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor, a noble charity, which has in a single year rendered substantial aid to 8000 persons; the JlIarine Hospital, belonging to the United States; the Church Charity Foundation, for the relief of indigent and destitute persons; and the Brooklyn and Homoopathic Dispensaries. Besides these, are a number of religious and private charities, which are well sustained. There are several small squares and parks in the city, the principal of which is Washington Park (Fort Greene), occupying an elevated plateau northeast of the City Hall.

During the Revolutionary war, the site of this park was occupied by extensive fortifications designed to cover the Long Island approaches to the city of New York. The ruins of Fort Greene, the principal work, still remain. The park is tastefully laid out, and commands a good view of the city. During the last few years, a large park, known as Prospect Park, has been laid out in the southwestern portion of the city. It contains 550
acres, and promises to be one of the handsomest parks in the Union. The United States Navy Yard is situated within the city limits, on the south side of Wallabout Bay, which lies in the northeast part of Brooklyn. It occupies about 40 acres of ground, enclosed by a stone wall, and contains a large dry-dock, constructed at a cost of $1,000,000, several extensive shops for the construction of vessels, machinery, arms, etc. It is one of the principal naval stations of the Republic. To the north of the Navy Yard, stands the Marine Hospital, in the midst of extensive grounds.

During the war of the Revolution, the 376

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NEWV YORK. IUNITED STATES NAVY YARD, BROOKLYN. British prison ships were anchored in Wa]labout Bay. Large nullmbers of American prisoners of war were confined in these hulks, and it is said that 11,500 of them perished from ill usage and inmpure air. They were hastily buried on the shore of the bay. By 1808, their bones were entirely exposed, the tide having washed out their graves. In that year, their bones were collected and deposited in 13 coffins, inscribed with the names of the 13 original States, and deposited in a vault in Hudson avenue, near the present Navy Yard. The Government property at the Navy Yard, not counting the shipping, is estimated at $25,000,000. The Atlantic Dock, in South Brooklyn, opposite Governor’s Island, is a very extensive work. It embraces within the piers an area of nearly 41 acres, and can accommodate ships of the largest size. It was built by a company incorporated in 1840, with a capital of $1,000,000. The outer pier extends for 3000 feet along Buttermilk Channel, and is covered with large granite warehouses. It is the centre of one of the largest grain trades in the world. The cemeteries of Brooklyn are used by that city in common with 377

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. New York. The principal is Greenwood, in the extreme southern part of Brooklyn, about 3 miles from Fulton Ferry. The street cars run to the gates. It is beautifully laid out, contains 242 acres of ground, and is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. Many of its monuments are noted as works of art. It commands ex tensive views of the ocean and of the bay and city of New York. The cemeteries of the Evergreens and Cypress Hills lie about 4 miles to the eastward of Greenwood. Brooklyn is connected with New York by numerous ferries. It is lighted throughout with gas, and is abundantly supplied with pure water from the Ridgewood water-works. There is also a steam fire department, and an efficient police force. The city is divided into 20 wards, and is governed by a Mayor and Common Council. The population in 1870 was 396,300. Brooklyn was first settled in 1625, by a band of Walloons, sent out as agriculturists by the Dutch West India Company. These settled on the shores of the bay now used by the Navy Yard, and gave to their settlement the name of Waalboght, or Walloon’s Bay, which has since been corrupted into Wallabout Bay. From this beginning sprang a straggling town, to which the Dutch gave the name of Breuckelen, from a village in Holland. The first white man who actually settled within the limits of the present city of Brooklyn, was George Jansen de Rapelje. The Dutch Government bought the title to the land from the Canarsee Indians, a large tribe which dwelt in the southern part of what is now Kings county. In 1641, the Dutch allowed the English to settle on Long Island, on the condition of their taking the oath of allegiance to the States General. In 1654, the erection of the first church was begun by order of Governor Stuyvesant. It was located at Flatbush. Previous to this, the settlers on Long Island attended worship in New Amsterdam. The history of Brooklyn until the period of the Revolution is uneventful. During that struggle, it was the scene of several important events. On the 26th of August, 1776, the battle of Long Island was fought, the battlefield being within the present city limits in the direction of Flatbush. The American arnmy was defeated and compelled to abandon Long Island. The occupation of New York by the British forces was the result. Brooklyn grew very slowly after its settlement. In 1698, it contained 509 persons; in 1800, 3298; in 1820, 7175. In 1834, it was incorporated as a city. In 1855, it was consolidated with the city of

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NEW YORK. Williamsburg and the town of Bushwick, including the village of Greenpoint, under the general name of Brooklyn. BUFFALO, The third city in the State, is situated in Erie county, at the eastern extrePAtLy of Lake Erie, in latitude 42~ 53’ N., longitude 78~ 55’ W. It is 352 miles by the Erie Canal, and 300 miles by the New York Central Railway, west of Albany, and 460 miles northwest of New York by railway. It is connected with Albany and the Hudson River by the Erie Canal, and has railway connections with all parts of the Union. The water front of the city is 5 miles long, half of it lying along Lake Erie, and the rest along the Niagara River.

Buffalo Creek extends through the southern portion of the city, and forms a part of the harbor. “The harbor of Buffalo is now one of the best in the great chain of lakes. The present harbor is formed by Buffalo Creek, the Blackwell Canal, the Erie and Ohio Basins, and North Buffalo Harbor.

Buffalo Creek is navigable for more than 2 miles from its entrance into the lake for vessels drawing 12 feet of water. Nearly parallel to, and from 200 to 800 feet from it, is the Blackwell ShipCanal, one mile and a quarter long, and connected with it by 4 shipcanal slips. About 1 mile from the mouth of the creek, and connected with it by a shipcanal slip, is the Ohio Basin, containing 10 acres. A pier or breakwater on the south side of the creek, and a sea wall next the lake, give ample protection froni storms. On the end of this pier, extending about 1500 feet into the lake, is a mole on which is the Government lighthouse. On the north side of the creek is another pier, extending into the lake about 500 feet. At nearly right angles to the south pier, and distant from it and the north pier 600 feet, commences the Erie Basin Pier, extending towards North Buffalo Harbor 5000 feet, and about 1000 feet distant from the shore lineiof the lake. The intermediate space between this pier and the shiore line, 1000 by 5000 feet, is called the Erie Basin Harbor, which has sufficient depth of water for vessels drawing 10 feet. At the lower end of the Erie Basin sea-wall is a mole, and vessels can enter it at this point, or from the entrance through Buffalo Creek. About three-quarters of a mile from the mole of the Erie Basin Pier is the Black Rock Pier, eincelosing a portion of the Niagara River, about 2 miles long and from 200 to 600 feet wide, forming what is called’ Black Rock Harbor.’ The water in this harbor is shoal, and only vessels of light draught can enter it. 379

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. VIEW FROMI WEST POINT. It forms for more than a mile the Erie Canal, and boats drawing 6 feet of water can pass through it.

Buffalo Creek, the Blackwell Canal and slips, the Ohio and Erie Basin harbors, give abundance of sea-room to accommodate a fleet of 300 sail and steam vessels. The Erie Canal from Buffalo to Tonawanda, a distance of 12
miles, is nearly parallel with the Niagara River, and for a very considerable portion of the distance is only separated from it by an embankment of from 100 to 400 feet in width. The Niagara River from North Buffalo to Tonawanda, a distance of 8 miles, has from 16 to 25 feet of water, with good bottom for anchorage and wide river for a harbor. The rapid growth of the WVest and the large augmentation in the receipt of cereals have given rise to immense grain warehouses, called elevators, which were introduced to facilitate and cheapen the transhipment of this kind of produce. There are now built and in successful operation 27 of these grain warehouses, besides 2 floating elevators. They have a storage capacity for 5,830,000 bushels, and have a transfer capacity equal to 2,808,000 bushels in each 24 hours. They were first introduced in 1842.

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NEW YORK. dry-docks. They will admit the largest vessels navigating the lakes. There is a marine railway and a very powerful derrick for handling boilers and heavy machinery.” The position of Buffalo has placed in its hands the immense commerce of the Great Lakes and the Erie Canal, and its trade has been greatly increased by the great lines of railways which connect it with all parts of the United States and Canada. Its grain trade is enormous, and is growing rapidly. In 1863, the total number of vessels entering and clearing at the port of Buffalo was 15,376. These had a total tonnage of 6,757,903. In the same year the trade of Buffalo by lake, rail, and canal amounted to $256,214,614. In the same year there were received at this port grain and flour estimated as wheat to the amount of 64,735,510 bushels. It is not an unusual sight during the season of navigation to see a fleet of 150 sailing vessels and steamers enter Buffalo harbor from the west during a period of 24 hours. The manufacturing interests are increasing rapidly. Iron, leather, agricultural implements, and oil refining are the most important. It is believed that Buffalo will soon rank next to Pittsburg in its iron manufactures. Its proximity to the iron and coal regions of New York, Pennsylvania and Ohio afford it great facilities for the economical working of this metal. The city is well built. The streets are broad and well paved, and as a rule intersect each other at right angles. The stores and business houses are substantial, and in many cases handsome. The business portion of the city lies near the water. Farther back are the streets devoted to private residences. These are generally well shaded, and are lined with tasteful and sometimes with elegant dwellings. There are six public squares, viz: Niagara, Lafayette Place, Washington, Franklin, Delaware Place, and Terrace Parks. The public buildings include the City Halt, 2 CourtHouses, the City Penitentiary, the City Jail, the Custom House, the State Arsenal, and the building of the Young Men’s Christian Association. Among the Literary and Benevolent Institutions are the Buffalo University and 3ledical School; the Young JIen’s Association, with a library of over 13,000 volumes; the Buffalo Femntale Academy; the City and Jiarine Hospitals; St. Vincent’s Orphan Asylum; and the Hospital of the Sisters of Charity. All of these are provided with handsome and commodious buildings. There are upwards of 70 churches in the city, several of which are noted for their beauty and grandeur. 381

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TIHE GREAT REPUBLIC. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure water, and its thoroughfares are traversed by street railways. The city is divided into 13 wards, and is governed by a Mayor and Council chosen by the people. There are over 30 public schools, besides a Central High School, and a number of private institutions in the city. There are 18
publications issued here, 6 of which are daily, 8 weekly, and 3
semiweekly newspapers. The population in 1870 was 117,115. Buffalo was laid out in 1801 by the Holland Company, and in 1812 it became a military post, at which time it contained about 200 houses. In December, 1813, it was captured and burned by the British and Indians, and only 2 houses left standing. Congress made a donation of $80,000 to the settlers to assist them iu rebuilding the place. In 1832, it was incorporated as a city, and in 1852, the charter was amended so as to include Black Rock. Since 1814, the growth of the city has been very rapid. It contained only 2095
inhabitants in 1820, its wonderful growth being confined almost entirely to half a century. ROCHESTER, In iMonroe county, is the fifth city in importance in the State. It is situated on both sides of the Genesee River, 7 miles from its entrance into Lake Ontario, 230 miles west by north of Albany, and 68 miles east-northeast of Buffalo. Latitude 43~ 8’

N., longitude 77~ 51, W. The ground upon which the city stands is generally flat, and the corporate limits cover an area of 8 square miles, nearly all of which is closely built up. The streets are broad and straight, and are well paved. In the business sections are many handsome buildings, and the private residences are generally tasteful and often elegant. The Genesee River is navigable to the city limits, but the docks are situated at the mouth of the river, 7 miles distant. These are connected with the city by railway, and by lines of steamers. Rochester controls a large trade on Lake Ontario. The Erie Canal passes through the city, crossing the river on a fine stone aqueduct. The Genesee Valley Canal connects with it here, and extends southward from Rochester to the Alleghany River. The Erie and New York Central railways and their branches have added much to the wealth and importance of the city. The unlimited waterpower afforded by the Genesee, has been one of the chief sources of the prosperity of Rochester. Within a distance of 3 miles the river has a descent of 226 feet, which it accomplishes in 3 perpendicular falls of 95, 20 and 75 feet. The upper falls lie within the city limits and are noted for their beauty. 3‘82

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NEW YORK. In consequence of the possession of this waterpower, Rochester is now one of the principal manufacturing cities in the Union. The flour mills are the most extensive in the country. Shoes, iron ware, wooden ware, clothing, etc., are extensively manufactured. There is also an extensive trade in produce, which is collected here for shipment to other markets. The nurseries of Rochester are famous, and are unsurpassed. The public buildings of the city are handsome. The principal are the City Hall, and the Arcade, the latter containing the Post Office and other Federal offices. The Educational and Literary Institutions are the University of R?ochester, with a fine edifice of brown stonIe, and an endowment of $200,000; the Rochester Theological Seminary, under the control of the Baptists; the Athenecum; the P1ublic Library; and the Free Academny. There over 20 public schools, in excellent condition, and a number of private schools. The Charitable and Benevolent Institutions are St. -lury’s Hospital, the City Hospital, the Industrial School, the Hoine for the Friendless, an insane Asylum, two Oiphan Asylums, and the Western House of Refuge, for boys, belonging to the State. There are over 45
churches in the city, many of them elegant structures. The city is well supplied with water, and is lighted with gas. Street railways afford communication between its various parts. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. The population in 1870 was 62,315. Rochester was settled in 1812, and was named in honor of Colonel Nathaniel Rochester, one of the pioneers of the city. It was incorporated as a city in 1834. T’ROY, The sixth city in the State, lies on both sides of the Hudson River, at the mouth of Poestenkill Creek, at the head of steamboat navigation, 6 miles northeast of Albany, and 151 miles north of New York. The principal portion of the city lies immediately along the river, for about 3 miles, communication between the two banks being maintained by means of a bridge and ferry boats. The city lies in a plain. At the southern end of the east side rises a bold hill, called Mount Ida, from which an extensive view may be gained of Troy, the river, and the surrounding country. In the northern part of the city is a egged mass of rock, 200 feet high, called Mount Olympuis. 383

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ThIe city is regularly laid out. The streets, 60 feet in width, cross each other at right angles, except the principal business thoroughfare, River street, which follows the course of the Hudson, and is lined with large warehouses and hotels. The streets are well paved, as a rule, are handsomely shaded, and are lighted with gas. The city is well built, and those portions occupied with private residences are very beautifill. There are several handsome parks or public squares in the city limits. Troy is favorably situated for commerce, and has a large trade along the river, and with the interior. It has railway communication with all parts of the country; the Hudson gives it water transportation to New York and the ocean; the Erie Canal connects it with the Great Lakes, and the Champlain Canal with the lower St. Lawrence. Troy is extensively engaged in manufactures. Flour, paper, cotton and woollen goods, leather, nails and iron ware, including railroad iron, carpets, brushes, and stone ware are made in large quantities. The public buildings are handsome. The most imposing is the Court House, a fine marble edifice in the Doric style. The Educational and Literary Institutions are, the Troy Academy; the Rensselacer Institute, affording a thorough education in the exact sciences; the Troy Femnale Seminary, established by Mrs. Emma Willard in 1821; the Lyceum, and the Yountg Men’s Association. The.e are two public schools to each ward, besides a number of night schools. There are also several flourishing private schools. The Charitable and Benevolent Institutions are well supported. The principal are the Troy Hospital, the Mafurshal Infirmary, the Troy Oiphan Asylum, and St. flary’s Orphan Asylum. There are a number of churches in Troy, some of which are amongst the handsomest in the Union. The city is supplied with pure water from a neighboring stream. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. It is provided with street railways, an efficient police force, and a steam fire department. The population in 1870 was 45,481. In 1720, Derick Vanderheyden acquired from Van RensseIaer the title to 400 acres of land, now included in Troy, at an annual rent of 3-bushels of wheat and 4 fat fowls. The tract was converted into a farmn, and so used until 1786, when a company of New Englanders induced its owners to lay it out as a town. It was surveyed between 1786 and 1790, and was variously known as “Ferry Hook,” “Yan 334

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NEW YORK. derheyden’s Ferry,” and “Ashley’s Ferry.” In 1789, it contained about a dozen dwellings, and 5 small stores. A meeting of the freeholders was held on the 5th of January, 1789, and the place was named Troy. Until the completion of the Erie Canal it was a mere village. It owes its prosperity in a large measure to that great work. It was incorporated as a city in 1816. West Troy, on the west bank of the Hudson, in Albany county, and Green Island village, on an island of that name, above WVest Troy, are but suburbs of the city of Troy. SYRACUSE, The seventh city in the State, is situated in Onondaga county, at the southern end of Onondaga Lake, and on a creek bearing the same name. It is 148 miles west by north of Albany.

The site is nearly level. The city is regularly laid out in squares, and the streets are broad and well paved. The business streets are lined with warehouses of brick and stone, and the private streets are delightfillly shaded, and are occupied with tasteful cottages, and in some cases with more pretentious dwellings. The city is connected with all parts of the country by railway; with the Hudson and Lake Erie by the Erie Canal; and the Oswego Canal connects it with Lake Ontario. It is the centre of a large and thlriving trade. Its principal industry is the manufacture of salt, of whichl it is the principal seat in this country. The land in which the saline springs are found, is owned by the State, and is leased free of charge for the manufacture of salt alone. The wells are sunk, and the water pumped from them at the expense of the State, the manufacturer paying a tax of 1 cent per bushel for this service. A few of the wells are 400 feet deep. In 1861, the total amount of salt produced here was 9,053,874 bushels. The salt is fully equal in quality to the famous Turk’s Island salt. Syracuse is also largly engaged in the manufacture of machinery, steam engines, agricultural implements, stoves, woollen goods, leather, and flour. The City HiedL is the principal public building.

Besides this the city contains 2 immense halls used for public meetings.

The public schools are well conducted, and generally attended. There are several fine private schools in the city. The Charitable and Benevolent Institutions consist of the Onondaga Coztnty Orphai Asylumi, the Syracuse I-ome Associationfor thte Relief ( the Poor, and the AVcw York State Asyluitnfo’ I-Tiots. 25 385

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The churches are nurnerous and well supported, and are among the principal ornaments of the bity. Syracuse is governed by a Mayor and Council. It is provided with street railways, is supplied with water, and is lighted with gas. The population in 1870 was 43,058. Syracuse was first settled by an Indian trader, named Ephraim Webster, who located near the mouth of Onondaga Creek in 1786. In 1788 or 1789, John Danforth located at “Salt Point,” and began the manufacture of salt. The salt springs soon drew other settlers, and a town was speedily formed, which took the name of Salina, and became the most important place in the county. Syracuse, Webster’s village, did not thrive as rapidly as Salina at first, but in 1829, the population of the two towns, which lay side by side, was about the same. The completion of the Erie Canal gave a great impetus to both, but Syracuse became from that date the more prominent place. In 1847, the city of Syracuse was incorporated, including in its limits the towns of Salina and Lodi. UTICA, The eighth city in the State, is situated on the south bank of the Mohawk River, in Oneida county, 95
miles west-northwest of Albany. The site is nearly level, the ground rising slightly toward the north. It is one of the handsomest and best-built cities in the State or the Union. The streets are wide, wellpaved, shaded with fine trees; and the stores and residences, which are mostly of brick and stone, are substantial and showy. The public buildings are attractive, and are situated chiefly on Genesee street. The public schools are well conducted, and include all the departments from the primary to a thorough academic course. Besides these the city contains several fine private schools. - The State Lunatic Asylum, on the western verge of the city, is a noble institution, and is provided with handsome edifices. There are about 26 churches, the most of which are well built and tastefully decorated. Utica is connected with the East and West by the New York Central Railway, which passes through the town. It is the southern terminus of the Utica and Black River Railway. The Erie Canal connects it with the Hlludson and the Great Lakes, and the Chenango Canal extends from Utica to Binghampton, 97 miles. The city lies 386

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NEEW YORK. in the midst of a populous and fertile country, and possesses a considerable trade. It is also, to a limited’ extent, engaged in manufacturing enterprises. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure water. The population in 1870 was 28,804. Utica is built upon the site of Fort Schuyler, one of the most important forts of the Revolution. The settlement of the village began soon after the close of the war; but it grew slowly. In 1813, it had but 1700 inhabitants. The completion of the Erie Canal gave it the impetus which has carried it to its present prosperity. OSWEGO, The ninth city in the State, is situated, in Oswego county, on the southeast shore of Lake Ontario, at the mouth of and oni both sides of the Oswego River, 183 miles west-northwest of Albany. Although the ninth in population, Oswego is one of the most important cities in the State. It is the largest American town on Lake Ontario. It is handsomely built. The streets are 100 feet wide, and intersect each other at right angles. The city is divided by the river into two parts, nearly equal in size, connected by bridges placed above the limits of shlip navigation. The public buildings are handsome, and consist of a City Hall, 3~lIckcet House, Court House, Custon House, and Prison. There are 12 churches in the city. The public schools are organized under a special act of the Legislature, and are among the best in the State. Besides schools for each ward, there is a high school, in which the languages and higher branches of education are taught. There are several benevolent institutions in the city, the principal of which is the Orphan Asylum. The harbor of Oswego is one of the best on Lake Ontario.

The mouth of the river admits vessels of the largest class navigating the lakes, and the erection of piers and a lighthouse by the United States Government, has made it one of the safest and most accessible harbors on the frontier. It combines all the advantages of canal and railway transportation with that of being the nearest lake port to tidewater. A hydraulic canal, extending along both sides of the river, is thickly lined with mills, grain elevators and warehouses, and manufacturing establishments. The Oswego River receives the waters of Oneida, Cayuga, Seneca, Onondaga, and several other lakes, besides numerous 387

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‘THE GREAT REPUB1LIC. OSWEGO. tributary streams. These lakes form natural reservoirs, which prevent floods or undue exhaustion, the extreme elevation and depression of the river not exceeding 3 feet, so that destructive freshets, so coIrmon to great waterpower rivers, never occur.

The river falls 34 feet within the limits of the city, and thus furnishes immense waterpower, but a small portion of which has been utilized. The situation of Oswego being nearer to the St. Lawrence and to New York than any other lake port, gives it peculiar advantages. It is connected with all parts of the country by rail, and with the Erie Canal and Hudson River by the Oswego Canal, which joins the Erie at Syracuse. It is the greatest wheat market ib the State, and controls nearly onehalf of the entire commerce of the United States with Canada. In 1862, its receipts of grain were as follows: Flour, 235,382 barrels; Wheat, 10,982,132 bushels; Corn, 4,528,962 bushels; Oats, 187,284 bushels; Rye, 130,175 bushels; Barley, 1,050,364 bushels. The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure water. In 1870, the population was 20,910. Oswego was originally settled by the French, who established a 3888 i

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NEW YORK. trading post there, and erected a fort, soon after the settlement of Quebec. In 1700, the English explored the country of the Five Na tions; and in 1722, built a fort at the mouth of the river. At the outbreak of the “Old French War,” 1753, Fort Ontario was built on the eastern bank of the river; and in 1755, another fort was built lon the west bank. In the summer of 1756, the French, under Montcalm, crossed the lake from Fort Frontenac (Kingston), captured the forts, after a three days’ siege, burned them, and withdrew. In 1758, Colonel Bradstreet, with 3350 men, crossed to Fort Frontenac, and destroyed it, and returning to Oswego, rebuilt the forts there. Fort Ontario was enlarged, and was reconstructed in the most substantial manner. Il 1760, Lord Amnherst’s strong army embarked from Oswego in the expedition against Quebec. During the Revolution it remained in the hands of the British, who kept a strong garrison in it. Fromn this point they sent out many of the marauding parties that carried the torch and sword along the frontier. They held it until 1796, when it was surrendered in accordance with the provisions of Jay’s Treaty. They destroyed the fortifications, and left it as new as though it were virgin to the white man’s tread. In 1797, N-eil McMullin, a merchant of Kingston, settled on the spot, bringing with him a frame house made in Kingston. By the beginning of the second war with England, a thriving settlement had been formed there. This war greatly retarded the growth of the town, which, in May, 1814, was bombarded and captured by the British fleet under Sir James Yeo. After the return of peace, Oswego increased in size and population, but was a place of but little implortance until after the construction of the Welland and Oswego canals.

In 1816, steam navigation was introduced oni Lakle Ontario, and this has contributed considerably to the growth of Oswego. The principal pursuit of its inhabitants previous to the openinhg of the Oswego Canal, in 1828, was ship building. It was incorporated as a city in 1848. The other important cities and towns of the State are, Poughkeepsie, 20,080 inhabitants; Newtown, 20,274; Auburn, 17,225; Newburg, 17,014; Elmira, 15,863; Cohoes, 15,357; Flushing, 14,600; Hempstead, 13,999; Johnson, 12,273; Lockport, 12,426; }‘ishklill, 11,752; Kinligston, 11,820; Yonklers, 11,997. 389

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. MISCELLANIES. ANCIENT LAWVS OF THE PROVINCE OF NEW

YORK. The following laws are extracted from those established by the Duke of York for the government of New York, in the year 1664. This code (called the “Duke’s Laws”) was compiled under the direction of Nicolls, the first English Governor. It continued in force till the period of the Revolution in England, and ceased to have effect in 1691, when the General Assembly of the Province began to exercise a new legislative power under the sovereignty of King William: Capital Laws.-I. If any person within this Government shall by direct exprest, imlpious or presumptuous ways, deny the true God and his Attributes, he shall be put to death. 2. If any person shall Commit any wilful and premeditated Murder, he shall be put to Death. 3. If any person Slayeth another with Sword or Dagger who lath no weapon to defend himself; hlie shall be put to Death. 4. If any person forcibly Stealeth or carrieth away any mankind; He shall be put to death.

5. If any person shall bear false witness maliciously and on purpose to take away a man’s life, He shall be put to Death. 6. If any man shall Traitorously deny his Majestyes right and titles to his Crownes and Dominions, or shall raise armies to resist his Authority, He shall be put to Death. 7. If any man shall treacherously conspire or Publiquely attempt to invade or Surprise any Town or Towns, Fort or Forts, within this Government, He shall be put to Death. 8. If any Child or Children, above sixteen years of age, and of Sufficient understanding, shall smite their natural Father or Mother, unless thllereunto provoked and forct for their selfe preservation from Death or Mayming, at the Complaint of the said Father and Mother, and not otherwise, they being Sufficient witnesses thereof, that Child or those Children so offending shall be put to Death.

Bond Slavery.-No Christian shall be kept in Bondslavery villenage or Captivity, Except Such who shall be Judged thereunto by Authority, or such as willingly have sould, or shall sell themselves, In which Case a Record of such Servitude shall be entered in the Court of Sessions held for that Jurisdiction where Such Matters shall Inhabit, provided that nothing in the Law Contained shall be to the prejudice of Master or Dame who have or shaltI by any Indenture or Covenant take Apprentices for Terme of Years, or other Servants for Term of years or Lif’e. Chturc7.-Whereas the publique Worship of God is much discredited for want of painful and able Ministers to Instruct the people in the true Religion and for want of Convenient places Capable to receive any Number or Assembly of people in a decent manner for Celebrating Gods holy Ordinances. These ensueing Lawes are to be observed in every parish (Viz.) 1. That in each Parish within this Government a church be built in the most Convenient part thereof, Capable to receive and accommodate two Hundred Person s. 2. To prevent Scandalous and Ig,norant pretenders to the Ministry from in 390

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NEW YORK. truding themselves as Teachers; No Minister shall be Admitted to Officiate, within the Government but such as shall produce Testimonials to the Governour, that he hath Received Ordination either from some Protestant Bishop, or Minister within some part of his Majesties Dominions or the Dominions of any foreign Prince of the Reformed Religion, upon which Testimony the Governour shall induce the said Minister into the parish that shall make presentation of him, as duely Elected by the Major part of the Inhabitants householders. 3. That the Minister of every Parish shall Preach constantly every Sunday, and shall also pray for the Kinge, Queene, Duke of Yorke, and the Royall family. And every person affronting or disturbing any Congregation on the Lords Day and on such publique days of fast and Thanksgiving as are appointed to be observed. After the presentments thereof by the Churchliwardens to the Sessions and due Conviction thereof he shall be punished by fine or Imprisonment according to the merit and Nature of the offence, And every Minister shall also Pubiiquely Administer the Sacrament of the Lord’s Supper once every Year at the least in his Parish Church not denying the private benefit thereof to Persons that for want of health shall require the same in their houses, under the penalty of Loss of preferment unless the Minister be restrained in point of Conscience. Fasting Djays and Days of Thanks givia To be observed.-Whereas by an Act of Parliament the fifth Day of November is annually to be observed for the Great deliverance from the Gunpowder Treason, And whereas by one other Act of Parliament The thirtyeth Day of January is annually to be observed with Fasting and Prayer in all his MIajesties Dominions to shew a hearty and Serious Repentance and Detestation of that Barbarous Murther Commited upon the Person of our late King Charles the first, thereby to divert Gods heavy Judgment from falling upon the whole Nation, as also by another Act of Parliament we are enjoyned thankfully to acknowledge the providence of God upon the Nine and Twentyetli Day of M3ay for his Majesties Birth and Resturation to the Throne of his Royall Ancestors whereby Peace and unity is Established in all his Majesties Domains, Every Minister within his Severall Parish is enjoyned to pray and Preach on these days and all other Persons are also enjoyned to abstain from their Ordinary Laboure and Calling According to the true intent of both the said Acts. Every Person Licencedcl to keep an Ordinary shall always be provided of strong and wholesome Beer, of four bushels of malt, at the least to a Hoggshead which he shall not Sell at above two pence the quart under the penalty of twenty Shillings, for the first Offence, forty shlillings for the Second, and loss of his Licence, It is permitted to any to Sell Beer out of Doores at a peny the Ale quart or under. No Licenced Person shall suffer any to Drink excessively or at unseasonable hours after Nine of the Clock at night in or about any their houses upon penalty of two shillings six pence for every Offence if Complaint and proofe be made thereof. All Injuryes done to the Indians of what nature whatsoever; shall upon their Complaint and proofe thereof in any Court have speedy redress gratis, against any Christian in as full and Ample manner, (with reasonable allowance for damage) as if the Case had been betwixt Christian and Christian. No Indian whatsoever shall at any time be Suffered to Powaw or performe outward worship to the Devil in any Towne within this Government. Lyiny awed False Fewts.-Every Person of age of discretion which shall be re -ID 9 1

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TIE GREAT REPUBLIC. puted of fourteen years or upwards, who shall wittingly and willingly forge or Publish fals newes whereof no Certain Auther nor Authlentique Letter out of any part of Europe can be produced, whereby the minds of People are frequently dis quieted or exasperated in relation to publique Affairs, or particular Persons in juried in their good names and Credits by such Common deceites and abuses Upon due proofe made by Sufficient witnesses before the Governour or any Court of Sessions the Person so Offending in ordinary Cases shall for the first of fence be fined ten shillings, for the second offence twenty shillings and for the third offence forty Shillings and if the party be unable to pay the same he shall be Sett in the Stocks so longe, or publiquely whipt with so many stripes as the Governor or any Court of Sessions shall think fitt not exceeding forty stripes: or four houres Sitting in the Stocks, and for the fourth offence he shall be bound to his good behaviour, paying Cost or Service to the Informer and witnesses, such as shall be judged reasonable sattisfaction, But in Cases of high nature and publique Concernes, the fine or punishment shall be increast according to the dis cretion of the Governor and Council onely. If any Masters or Dames shall Tyrannically and Cruelly abuse their Servants, upon Complaint made by the Servant to the Constable and Overseers, they shall take Speedy redress therein, by Admonishing the Master or Dame not to provoke their Servants, And upon the Servants Second Complaint, of the like usage It shall be Lawful for the Constable and Overseers to protect and Sustaine such Ser vants in their Houses till due Order be taken for their Reliefe in the ensuing Sessions Provided that due Notice thereof be Speedily given to Such Masters or Dames, and the Cause why such Servants are Protected and Sustained, and in Case any Master or Dame by such Tyranny and Cruelty, and not casually, shall smite out the Eye or Tooth of any such man or maid Servant, or shall otherwise Maim or disfigure them such Servants after due proof made shall be sett free from their Service, And have a further allowance and recompence as the Court of Sessions shall judge meet. But in Case any Servant or Servants shall causelessly Complain against their Master or Dame If they cannot make proofe of a just occation for such Complaints such Servants shall by the Justices of the Court of Sessions be enjoyned to serve three Months time extraordinary (Gratis) for every such vndue Complaint. All Servants who have served Diligently; and faithfully to the benifit of their Masters or Dames five or Seaven yeares, shall not be Sent empty away, and if any have proved unfaithful or negligent in their Service, notwithstanding the good usage of their Masters, They shall not be dismist, till they have made satisiaction according to the Judgment of the Constable and Overseers of the parish where they dwell. No man Elected into any Military Office, shall refuse to accept thereof, or discharge his trust therein under the penalty of five pounds whereof one half to be paid to the Governour and the other halfe to him that is chosen in his place, and accepts thereof. No man shall be Compeld to bear Armes or wage war by sea or Land, without the bounds and limits of this Government, But from Defensive warrs noe man shall be exempted. At a sessions held at the City of New York, Oct. 6, 1694, in the 6th year of W0illiam and Mary, present the Mayor, Recorder, Aldermen, and assistants of the Comumon Council. 392

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A EW YORK. F,)r the better preservation of the Lords day, no servile work to be done, or any goods bought or sold on the Lords day, under the penalty of ten shillings for the first offence, and double for every subsequent offence. The Doors of Publick Houses, to be kept shut, no company to be entertained in them, or any sort of Liquor sold in time of Divine service; Strangers, Travellers, or such as lodge in such Houses excepted; also no person to drink excessively, or be drunk, the penalty 10s. for every offence. No Negro or Indian servants to meet together, above the number of four, on the Lords Day, or any other day, within the City liberties; nor any slave to go around with Gun, Sword, Club, or any weapon, under penalty of ten lashes at the publick whipping post, or to be redeemed by his master or owner, at six shillings per head. One of the Constables in the five wards on the south side the fresh Water, by turns to walk the streets of the city, in time of Divine Service, to see these laws observed, and to have power to enter into all publick Houses to put the same in execution. The Constable to make enquiry after all strangers, and give in their names to the MIayor, or in his absence to the eldest Alderman, no keeper of publick house &c, to entertain or lodge any suspected person, or men or women of evil fame, both these heads under penalty of 10s. for each offence. No person to keep shop or sell any goods by retail or exercise any halndy-craft trade, but such as are Freemen of the City, under penalty of 5s. every offence. All Jesuits, Seminary Priests, Missionaries, or other Ecclesiastical person, made or ordained by any power or Jurisdiction derived or pretended from the Pope, or see of Rome, residing or being within the Province, to depart the same, on or before the first of Nov. 1700. If any such continue, remain, or come into the Province, after the said first of November, he shall be deemed an Incendiary, a disturber of the publick peace, an Enemy to the true Christian Religion, and shall suffer perpetual imprisonmeIt. If any such person, being actually committed, shall break Prison and escape, he shall be guilty of Felony, and if retaken shall die as a Felon. Persons receiving, larbouring, succouring, or concealing any such person, and knowing him to be such, shall forfeit the sum of 200 pounds, half to the King, for and towards the support of the Government, and the other half to the prosecutor, shall be set in the Pillory three days, and find sureties for their behaviour, at the discretion of the court. Any Justice of peace may cause any person suspected to be of the Romisli Clergy to be apprehended, and if he find cause, may commit hifi or them, in order to a trial. Any person, without warrant, may seize, apprehend, and bring before a MIagistrate, any person suspected of the crimes above, and the Governor, with the Council. may suitably reward such person as they think fit. OLD

TIME CUSTOMS OF NEW YORK CITY. The Dutch kept five great festivals of peculiar notoriety, in the year: Kerstydt (Christmas); Nieuwjar (New Year); a great day of cake, Paas (the Passover); Pinzxter (i. e.

Whitsuntide); and San Claas (i. e. Saint Nicholas, or Christ-Kinkle d(ay).

The negroes on Long Island on some oft those days came in great crowds to Brooklyn, and held,thleir field frolics. 393

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. It was the general practice of families in middle life to spin, and make much of their domestic wear at home. Short gowns and petticoats were the general in-door dresses. Young women who dressed gay to go abroad to visit, or to church, never failed to take off that dress and put on their homemade, as soon as they got home; even on Sunday evenings, when they expected company, or even their beaux, it was their best recommendation to seem thus fiugal and ready for any domestic avocation. The boys and young men of a family always changed their dress for a common dress in the same way. There was no custom of offering drink to their guests; when punch was offered, it was in great bowls.. Dutch dances were very common; the supper on such occasions was hot chocolate and bread. The negroes used to dance in the markets, using tom-toms, horns, etc., for music. None of the stores or tradesmen’s shops then aimed at any rivalry as now. There were no glaring allurements at windows, no over-reaching signs, no big bulk windows; they were content to sell things at honest profits, and to trust to an earned reputation for their share of business. Many aged persons have spoken to me of the former delightful practice of families sitting out on their “stoops” in the shades of the evening, and their saluting the passing friends, or talking across the narrow streets with neighbors. It was one of the grand links of union in the Knickerbocker social compact. It endeared, and made social neighbors: made intercourse on easy terms; it was only to say, Come, sit down. It helped the young to easy introductions, and made courtships of readier attainment. I give some facts to illustrate the above remarks, deduced from the family B. with which I am personally acquainted. It shows primitive Dutch manners. His grandfather died at the age of sixty-three, in 1782, holding the office of alderman eleven years, and once chosen mayor and declined. Such a man, in easy circumstances in life, following the true Dutch ton, had all his family to breakfast, all the year round, at daylight. Before the breakfast hlie universally smoked his pipe. His family always dined at twelve exactly, at that time the kettle was invariably set on the fire for tea, of Bohea, which was always as punctually furnished at three o’clock. Then the old people went abroad on purpose to visit relatives, changing the families each night in succession, over and over again all the year round. The regale at every such house was expected as matter of course to be chocolate supper, and soft waffles. Afterwards, when green tea came in as a new luxury, loaf sugar also came with it; this was broken in large lumps and laid severally by each cup, and was nibbled or bitten as needed! The family before referred to actually continued the practice till as late as seventeen years ago, with a steady determination in the patriarch to resist the modern innovation of dissolved sugar while he lived. While they occupied the stoops in the evening, you could see every here and there an old Knickerbocker with his long pipe, fuming away his cares, and ready on any occasion to offer another for the use of any passing friend who would sit down and join him. The ideal picture has every lineament of contented comfort and cheerful repose. Something much more composed and happy than the bustling anxiety of “over business” in the moderns. The cleanliness of Dutch housewifery was always extreme; everything had to 394

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NEWV YORK. submit to scrubbing and scouring; dirt in no form could be endured by them: and dear as water was in the city, where it was generally sold, still it was in per petual requisition. It was their honest pride to see a well-furnishled dresser, showing copper and pewter in shining splendor, as if for ornament, rather than for use. It was common in families then to cleanse their own chimneys without the aid of hired sweeps; and all tradesmen, etc., were accustomed to saw their own fuel. No man in middle circumstances of life ever scrupled to carry home his one cwt. of meal from the market; it would have been his shame to have avoided it. Men wore three-square or cocked hats, and wigs; coats with large cuffs, big skirts lined and stiffened with buckram. None ever saw a crown higher than the head. The coat of a beau had three or four large plaits in the skirts, wadding almost like a coverlet to keep them smooth; cuffs very large, up to the elbows, open below and inclined down, with lead therein; the capes were thin and low, so as readily to expose the close plaited neck-stock of fine linen cambric, and the large silver stock-buckle on the back of the neck; shirts with hand ruffles, sleeves finely plaited, breeches close fitted, with silver, stone, or paste gem bluckles; shoes or pumps with silver buckles of various sizes and patterns; thread, worsted, and silk stockings: the poorer class wore sheep and buckskin breeches close set to the limbs. Gold and silver sleeve buttons, set with stones or paste of various colors and kinds, adorned the wrists of the shirts of all classes. The very boys often wore wigs; and their dresses in general were similar to those of the men. The women wore caps (a bare head was never seen), stiff stays, hoops from six inches to two feet on each side; high heeled shoes of black stuff, with white silk or thread stockings; and in the miry times of the winter they wore clogs, gala shoes, or pattens. As soon as wigs were abandoned, and the natural hair was cherished, it became the mode to dress it by plaiting it, by queuing and clubbing, or by wearing it in a black silk sack or bag, adorned with a large black rose.

In time, the powder with which wigs and the natural hair had been severally adorned, was run into disrepute (about 58 or 30 years ago) by the then strange innovation of “Brutus heads;” not only then discarding the long-cherishled powder and perfume, and tortured frizzle-work, but also literally becoming “round heads” by cropping off all the pendent graces of ties, bobs, clubs, queus, etc. The hardy beaux who first encountered public opinion by appearing abroad unpowdered and cropt, had many starers. The old men, for a time, obstinately persisted in adherence to the old regime; but death thinned their ranks, and use and prevalence of numbers at length gave countenance to modern usage. From various reminiscents, we glean that laced ruffles, depending over the hand, was a mark of indispensable gentility. The coat and breeches were generally desirable of the same material-of ” broadcloth” for winter, and of silk camlet for summer. No kind of cotton fabrics were then in use, or known.

Hose were, therefore, of thread or silk in summer, and fine worsted in winter; shoes were square-toed, and were often “double channelled.” To these succeeded sharp-toes, as piked as possible. When wigs were universally worn, grey wigs were powdered; and for that purpose sent in a wooden box frequently to the barber to be dressed on his block-head. But “brown wigs,” so-called, were exempted from the white disguise. Coats of red cloth, even by boys, were considerably worn; and plush breeches, and plush vests of various colors shining and smooth, were in common use.

Everlasting, made of worsted, was a fabric 395

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. of great use for breeches, and sometimes for vests.

The vest had great depend ing pocket flaps, and the breeches were short above the stride, because the art, since devised, of suspending them by suspenders, was then unknown. It was then the test and even the pride of a well formed man, that he could by his natu ral form readily keep his breeches above his hips, and his stockings, without gar tering, above the calf of his leg. With the queues belonged frizzled side-locks and tout pies, formed of the natural hair, or, in defect of a long tie, a splice was added to it. Such was the general passion for the longest possible whip of hair, that sailors and boatmen, to make it grow most, used to tie theirs in eel skins. Nothing like surtouts were known; but they had coating or cloth great-coats, or blue cloth and brown camlet cloaks, with green baize lining to the latter. In the time of the American war, many of the American officers introduced the use of Dutch blankets for great-coats. The sailors used to wear hats of glazed leather, or woollen thrums, called chapeaus; and their “small clothes,” as we now call them, were immensely wide “petticoat-breeches.” The workingmen in the country wore the same form, having no falling-flaps, but slits in front; and they were so full’in girth, that they ordinarily changed the rear to the front, when the seat became prematurely worn out. At the same time numerous workingmen and boys, and all tradesmen, wore leather breeches and leather aprons. Some of the peculiarities of the female dress were these, to wit: Ancient ladies are still alive, who often had their hair tortured for hours at a sitting, in getting up for a dress occasion, the proper crisped curls of a hair curler. This formidable outfit of head-work was next succeeded by “rollers,” over which the hair was combed above the forehead.

These were again superseded by “cushions” and artificial curled work, wlich could be sent to the barber’s block, like a wig, “to be dressed,”

leaving the lady at home to pursue other objects. When the ladies first began to lay off their cumbrous hoops, they supplied their place with successive substitutes, such as these, to wit: first camIe ” bishops,” a thing stuffed or padded with horsehair; then succeeded a smaller affair, under the name of Cue de Paris, also padded with horsehair. Among other articles of female wlear, we may name the following, to wit: Once they wore a “skimmer-hlat,” made of a fabric which shone like silver tinsel; it was of a very small flat crown and big brim, not unlike the present Leghorn flats. Another hat, not unliko it in shape, was made of woven horsehair, wove in flowers, and called “horsehair bonnets,” an article which might be again usefully introduced for children’s wear, as an enduring hat for long service. I have seen what was called a bath-bonnet, made of black satin, and so constructed to lay in folds that it could be set upon, like a chapeau bras; a good article now for travelling ladies.

The “muskmelon-boninet,” used before the Revolution, had numerous whalebone stiffeners in the crown, set an inch apart, in parallel lines, and presenting ridges to the eye between the bones. The next bonnet was the “whalebone-bonnet,5’ having only the bones in the front as stiffeners.

A “calash-bonnet” was always formed of green silk; it was worn abroad, covering the head, but when in rooms it could fall back in folds like the springs of a calash or gig-top; to keep it over the head, it was drawn up by a cord always held in the hand of the wearer. The ” wagon-bonnet,”

always of black silk, was an article exclusively if use among-the Friends, and was declred to look, on the head, not unlike the top of the “

Jersey wagons,” and having a pendent piece of like silk hanging from the bonnet and covering the shoulders. The only straw wear was that,called the “straw Cheshire bonnet,” worn generally by old people. 396

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NEW YORVK. The ladies once wore “h lollow-breasted stays,” which were exploded as inju iaious to the health. Then came the use of strai8gt st8(ys. Even little girls wore such stays. At one time the gowns worn had no fronts; the design was to dis play a finely quilted Marseilles, silk, or satin petticoat, and a worked stomacher on the waist. In other dresses, a white apron was the mode; all wore large pockets under their gowns.

Among the caps was the “queen’s nightcap,” the same always worn by Lady Washington. The ” cushlion head-dress” was of gauze, stiffened out in cylindrical form, with white spiral wire. The border of the cap was called the balcony. Formerly there were no sideboards, and when they were first introduced after the Revolution, they were much smaller and less expensive than now. Formerly they had couches of worsted damask, and only in very affluent families, in lieu of whlat we call sofas, or lounges. Plain people used settees and settles,-the latter had a bed concealed in the seat, and by folding the top of it outwards to the front, it exposed the bed, and widened the place for the bed to be spread upon it. In those days, there were no Windsor chairs: and fancy chairs are still more modern. Their chairs of the genteelest kind were of mahogany or red walnut (once a great substitute for mahogany in all kinds of furniture, tables, etc.), or else they were of rush bottom, and made of maple posts and slats, with high backs and perpendicular. Instead of japanned waiters as now, they had nmahllog any tea boards, and round tea tables, which, being turned on an axle underneatl the centre, stood uprighlt, like an expanded fan or palm-leaf, in the corner. An other corner was occupied by a beaufet, which was a corner closet with a glass door, in wvhichl all the china of the family was intended to be displayed, for orvna menit as well as use. A conspicuous article in the collection was always a great china punchbowl, which furnished a frequent and grateful beverage,-for wine drinking was then much less in vogue. China teacups and saucers were then about half their present size; and china teapots and coffeepots, with silver nozzles, was a mark of superior finery. The shamn of plated ware was not then known, and all who showed a silver surface had the massive metal too. This occurred in the wealthy families, in little coffee and teapots; and a silver tankard, for good sugared toddy, was above vulgar entertainment. AWhllere we now use carthenware, they then used delfware, imported from England; and instead of queensware (then unknown), pewter platters and porringers, made to shine along a “dresser,” were universal.

Some, aud( especially the country people, ate their meals from wooden trenchers. Gilded looking-glasses and picture frames of golden glare were unknown; and both, much smaller thai now, were used. Small pictures painted on glass, with black mouldings for frames, with a scanty touch of gold leaf in the corners, was the adornment of a parlor. The looking-glasses in two plates, if large, had either glass frames figured with flowers engraved thereon, or were of scalloped mahogany-painted white or black, with here and there some touches of’gold. Every householder in that day deemed it essential to his convenience and comfort to have an ample chest of drawers, in his parlor or sitting-room, in which the linen and clothes of the family were always of ready access. It was no sin to rummage them before company. These drawers were sometimes nearly as high as the ceiling. At other times they had a writing desk about the centre, with a falling lid to write upon when let down. A great hig,h clock case, reaching, to the ceiling, occupied another corner; and a fourth corner was appropriated to the chimney place. 397

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. They then had no carpets on their floors, and no paper on their walls. Thie silver sand on the floor was drawn into a variety of fanciful figures and twirls of the sweeping-brush, and much skill and even pride was displayed therein in the devices and arrangement. They had then no argand or other lamps in parlors, but dipt candles, in brass or copper candlesticks, was usually good enough for common use; and those who occasionally used mould candles, made them at home in little tin frames, casting four to six candles in each. A glass lantern with square sides furnished the entry lights in the houses of the affluent. Bedsteads then were made, if fine, of carved mahogany, of slender dimensions; but, for common purposes, or for the families of good tradesmen, they were of poplar, and always painted green. It was a matter of universal concern to have them low enough to answer the purpose of repose for sick or dying persons-a provision so necessary for such possible events, now so little regarded by the modern practice of ascending to a bed by steps, like clambering up to a haymow. A lady, giving me the reminiscences of her early life, thus speaks of things as they were before the war of Independence: Marble mantels and folding doors were not then known; and well enough we enjoyed ourselves without sofas, carpets, or girandoles. A white floor sprinkled with clean white sand, large tables and heavy highl-back chairs of walnut or mahogany, decorated a parlor genteelly enough for anybody. Sometimes a carpet, not, however, covering the whole floor, was seen upon the dining room. This was a show parlor up stairs, not used but upon gala occasions, and then not to dine in. Pewter plates and dishes were in general use. China on dinner tables was a great rarity.

Plate, more or less, was seen in most families of easy circumstances, not indeed in all the various shapes that have since been invented, but in massive silver waiters, bowls, tankards, cans, etc. Glass tumblers were scarcely seen. Punch, the most common beverage, was drunk by the company froml one large bowl of silver or china; and beer firom a tankard of silver. The use of stoves was not known in primitive times, neither in families nor churches. Their fireplaces were as large again as the present, with much plainer mantel pieces. In lieu of marble plates around the sides and top of the fireplaces, it was adorned with china Dutch tile, pictured with sundry Scripture pieces. Dr. Franklin first invented the “‘open stove,” called also the “Franklin stove,” after which, as fuel became scarce, the better economy of the “ten plate stove” was adopted.

The most splendid looking carriage ever exhibited among us was that used, as befitting the character of that chief of men, General Washington, while acting as President of the United States. It was very large, so as to make four horses, at least, an almost necessary appendage. It was occasionally Prawn by six horses, Virginia bays. It was cream colored, globular in its shape, ornamented with cupids, supporting festoons, and wreaths of flowers, emblematically arranged along the panel work;-the whole neatly covered with best watch glass. It was of English construction. Some twenty or thirty years before the period of the Revolution, the steeds most prized for the saddle were pacers, since so odious deemed. To this end thile breed was propagated with much care. The Narraganset pacers of Rhode Island were in such repute that they were sent for, at much trouble and expense, by some few who were choice in their selections. It may amuse the present generation to peruse the history of one such horse, spoken of in the letter of Rip Van Dam of New York, in the year 1711, which I have seen. It states the fact of the 398

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NEW YORK. trouble he had taken to procure him such a horse. He was shipped from Rhode Island in a sloop, from which he jumped overboard, when under sail, and swam ashore to his former home. He arrived at New York in 14
days’ passage, much reduced in flesh and spirit. He cost ~32, and his freight 50 shillings. This writer, Rip Van Dam, was a great personage, he having been President of the Council in 1731; and on the death of Governor Montgomery, that year, he was Governor, ex-offcio, of New York. His mural monument is now to be seen in St. Paul’s Church.+? THE NEGRO PLOT IN NEW

YORK. A robbery, which had been committed at the house of Robert Hogg, a merchant in New York, on the 28th of February, 1740-1, seemed to have led to the discovery of a plot, which was afterwards called the negro plot.

One Mary Burton, an indentured servant to John Hughson (a man of infamous character, and to whose house slaves were in the practice of resorting to drink and gamble, and of secreting the goods they had stolen), was the instrument, in the hands of the magistrates, for the detection and punisllhment of the offenders. On the 18th of March, after the robbery, a fire broke out in the roof of His Majesty’s house at Fort George, near the chapel, consuming the house, the chapel, and some other buildings adjacent. Most of the public records in the secretary’s office, over the fort gate, were fortunately rescued from the flames. A week after, another fire broke out at the house belonging to a Captain Warren, near the long bridge, at tile soutlhwest end of the city. Both these fires were, at first, supp6sed to be accidental. But about a week after the last fire, another broke out at the store house of a Mr. Van Zandt, towards the east end of the town. Three days after, a fourth alarm was given, and it was found that some hay was on fire in a cowstable near the house of a Mr.

Quick, or a Mr. Vergereau. The fire was soon suppressed. The people, in returning from that fire, were alarmed by a fifth cry, at the house of one Ben Thompson, next door west of a Captain Sarly’s house. It appeared that fire had been placed between two beds, in the loft of a kitchen, where a negro usually slept. The next morning coals were discovered under a haystack, near the coach house and stables of Joseph Murray, Esq., in Broadway. All these circumstances having occurred in quick succession, the people were induced to believe that some designing persons intended to destroy the city by fire. What strengthened this belief was, a seventh alarm of fire the next day, at the house of a Sergeant Burns, opposite the fort garden, an eighth alarm, occasioned by a fire breaking out the same day, in the roof of a Mr. Hilton’s house, near the fly market; and again, the same afternoon, and within a few hours after, a ninth fire occurring at Colonel Philipse’s store house. This strange coincidence of events leaves indeed little room for doubt that some one or more of the fires occurred through design. It was soon rumored that the negroes were the perpetrators. One Quacko, a negro belonging to a Mr. Walter, was said to have made use of some mysterious language and threats, indicating his knowledge of a plot. A proclamation was issued, offering rewards for the discovery of the offenders. Quacko and several other negroes were apprehended and closely interrogated, but without effect. The Supreme Court, at its April term, strictly enjoined the grand jury to make diligent enquiries as to the late robberies and fires within the *

Watsohi’s Historic T.tles of Oldlen Tinme. 399

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. city. Mfary Burton, who had been apprehended as a witness, relative to the rob bery at Mlr. Hogg’s, gave the grand jury reason to believe that she was also privy to the design to set fire to the city. After some difficulty, she made a disclosure, which, in all probability, was greatly exaggerated, though some of its parts might have been true. She stated that meetings of negroes were held at her master’s (Ilughlison). That their plan was to burn the fort and city. That one C,esar (a black) was to be Governor, and Huglison, her master, king! That they were to destroy the whites. That she had known seven or eiglit guns, and some sw7ords, in her master’s house. That the meetings at her master’s house consisted of twenty or thirty negroes at a time. Upon this evidence, warrants were issued, and many negroes committed to prison. One Arthur Price, a ser vant, charged with stealing goods belonging to the LieutenantGovernor, like wise became informer. Being in prison himself, and having access to the negroes there committed, he received, or pretended to have received, much information from them. He was afterwards employed by the magistrates, to hold private conferences with the negroes in prison, and to use persuasion and other means to gain confessions from them. In this business he was peculiarly expert, and received the most unqualified approbation of the magistrates. Yet many of his stories are of such a chivalrous and romantic description as to excite suspicion of their truth. But everything hlie related was implicitly believed. The more extravagant the tale, the more readily was it received and credited. A white woman, who was a common prostitute, and familiar even with negroes, of the name of Margaret or Peggy Salinburgh, alias Kerry, alias Sorubiero, likewise declared she could make great discoveries. The magistrates eagerly hastened to take her examination, and the consequence was, that firesh warrants were issued for the apprehension of many other negroes, not before implicated. Informers were now rapidly increasing. Arthur Priee, while in prison, was making great discoveries. Operating on the fears and hopes of the negroes, many declared themselves accomplices. The magistrates were unceasingly engaged. The grand jury were daily presenting bills of indictment against the parties accused. To be inculpated by 3[ary Burton, Arthur Price, or Peggy Salinburgh, was sufficient to authorize the indictment and conviction of any person. It is to be regretted that on proof of such suspicious characters so many lives were placed in the hands of the executioner. Not that we dispute the fact that some of the fires were designedly set, but that we mean to be understood as doubting the extent and nature of the plot ascribed to the negroes. It is evident that Mary Burton was wholly unworthy of credit. Independent of the absurdity and improbability of many of her stories, she had, on the 22d April, in her first examination and disclosure under oath, declared, “that she never saw any white personiin company when they talked of burning the town, but her master, her mistress, and Peggy; ” yet, on the 25th of June following, she deposed that one John Ury, a Catholic priest (a wTite person), was often at her master’s, and “that when he came to Hughson’s, hlie (Ury) always went up stairs in the company of Hughson, his wife and daughter, and Peggy, with whom the negroes used to be, at the same time, consulting about the plot;” and that “the negroes talked in the presence of the said Ury about setting fire to the houses and killing the white people.” She afterwards, on the 14th July following, declared, on oath, that one Corry, a dancing master (also a white person), used to come to Hughson’s and talk with the negroes about the plot. Yet, on evidence of this kind, Ury, who had previously been committed, under the act against Jesuits and Popish priests, was indicted, 400

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NEW YORK. tried, convicted, and executed. At the place of execution, he solemnly denied the charge, and called on God to witness its falsity. But Ury was a Catholic, and the public prejudice was so strong that it required very little more to ensure his condemnation. Had not Ury been obnoxious, on account of his religion, the accusation against him would perhaps never have been made, or, if made, would have been little regarded. Mary Burton received the hundred pounds which had been promised as a reward for discovering the persons concerned in setting fire to the city. We shall now dismiss this article, after giving the number who were accused, tried, and suffered on this occasion, with some remarks, which grow out of this subject. One hundred and fifty-four negroes were committed to prison, of whom 14 were burnt at the stake, 18 hanged, 71
transported, and the rest pardoned, or discharged for want of proof.

Twenty white persons were committed, of whom 2 only, John Hughson and John Ury, were executed. At this time the city of New York contained a population of about 12,000 souls, of whom one-sixthl were slaves. If a plot, in fact, existed for the destruction of the city and the massacre of its inhabitants; and if that plot was conducted by Ury, it certainly betrayed greater imbecility of intellect, and want of caution and arrangement, together with less union of action, than could have been expected from one who was evidently, if we believe his own account, a man of classical education, and profound erudition. It is worthy of remark, that Corry, the dancing master, accused by Mary Burton, was discharged for want of proof. It seems that Mary’s testimony began, at length, to be doubted. Indeed, it well might; for had the’prosecutions continued much longer, she would, more than probable, have accused a great portion of the white citizens of New York, as being concerned in this plot. Daniel Horsmanden, Esq., published, at the time, a history of this conspiracy, and labored hard to prove its existence and extent. But it is evident that that hostility to Catholicism, which the British Governmelit so industriously inculcated, tinctured his mind, and gave it a bias unfriendly to the fair development of truth, or to the full and impartial examination of facts and circumstances. The negroes were without defence.

All the counsel in the city were arrayed against them, and volunteered their services on behalf of the crown, on the trial of those unfortunate slaves. The want of education, and utter ignorance of those infatuated wretches, easily made them the victims of craft and imposition. The hopes of life, and the promise of pardon, influenced some of them to make confessions. Yet falsehood was so ingeniously and artfully blended with truth, that it was not an easy task to separate the one from the other. It must, however, be admitted, that many circumstances aided the opinion that the plot, in fact, existed, and if the people were mistaken in this, it was an error info which they might naturally fall at the moment of confusion and distress, and under the attending circumstances. A day of public thanksgiving for the deliverance of is MIajesty’s subjects from the alleged conspiracy, was appointed by the LieutenantGovernor, and was devoutly and reverently observed by the inhabitants.Smnith’s History. HOW

ROCHESTER WAS SAVED FROM THE BRITISH. In the spring of 1814-the war between the United States and Great Britain being in progress-Sir James Yeo, with a fleet of 13 vessels, appeared off the mouth of the Genesee, threatening the destruction of the rude improvements in 26 401

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and around Rochester. Messengers were despatched to arouse the people in the surrounding country, for defence against the threatened attack. At this time there were but thirty-1three people in Rochester capable of bearing arms. This little band threw up a breastwork called Fort Bender, near the Deep Hollow, beside the Lower Falls, and hurried down to the junction of the Genesee and Lake Ontario, 5 miles north of the present city limits, where the enemy threatened to land; leaving behind them two old men, with some young lads, to remove the women and children into the woods, in case the British should at tempt to land for the capture of the provisions, and destruction of the bridge at Rochester, etc. Francis Brown and Elisha Ely acted as captains, and Isaac W. Stone as major, of the Rochester forces, which were strengthened by the addi tions that could be made from this thinly settled region. Though the equipments and discipline of these troops would not form a brilliant picture for a warlike eye, their very awkwardness in those points, coupled as it was with their sagacity and courage, accomplished more, perhaps, than could have been effected by a larger force of regular troops, bedizzened with the trappings of military pomp. The militia thus hastily collected were marched and countermarched, disappear ing in the woods at one point, and suddenly emerging elsewhere, so as to impress the enemy with the belief that the force collected for defence was far greater than it actually was. (The circumstances here related are substantially as mentioned to the writer by one who was then and is now a resident of Rochester.) An offi cer with a flag of truce was sent from the British fleet. A militia officer marched down pith ten of the most soldierlike men to receive him on Lighthouse Point. These militia men carried their guns upright, as might be consistent with their plan of being ready for action by keeping hold of the triggers. The British officer was astonished: lhe “looked unutterable things.” ” Sir,” said he, “do you receive a flag of truce under arms, with cocked triggers? “-” Excuse me, excuse me, sir: we backwoodsmen are not well versed in military tactics,” replied the American officer, who promptly sought to rectify his error by ordering his men to “ground arms.” The Briton was still more astonished; and, after delivering a brief message, immediately departed for the fleet, indicating by his countenance a suspicion that the ignorance of tactics, which he had witnessed, was all feigned for the occasion, so as to deceive the British Commodore into a snare. Shortly afterwards, on the same day, another officer came ashore with a flag of truce for farther parley, as the British were evidently too suspicious of stratagem to attempt a hostile landing, if there was any possibility of compromising for the spoils.

Captain Francis Brown was deputed with a guard to receive the last flag of truce. The British officer looked suspiciously upon him and upon his guard; and, after some conversation, familiarly grasped-the pantaloons of Captain Brown about the knee, remarking, as he firmly handled it, “Your cloth is too good to be spoiled by such a bungling tailor,” alluding to the width and clumsy aspect of that garment. Brown was quick-witted, as well as resolute, and replied, jocosely, that he was prevented from dressing fashionably by his haste that morning, to salute such distinguished visitors. The Briton obviously imagined that Brown was a regular officer of the American army, whose regimentals were masked by clumsy over clothes. The proposition was then made, that, if the Americans would deliver up the provisions and military stores, which milght be in and around Rochester, or Charlotte, Sir James Yeo would spare the settlements from destruction. “Will you comply with the offer?”-” Blood knee deep first,” was the emphatic reply of Francis Brown. 402

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NEW YORK. lWhile this parley was in progress, an American officer, with his staff, returning from the Niagara frontier, was accidentally seen passing from one wooded point to another; and this, with other circumstances, afforded to the British ” confirmation strong” that their suspicions were well founded; that there was a considerable American army collected; and that the Yankee officers pretended ignorance for the purpose of entrapping ashore the Commodore and his forces. The return of the last flag to the fleet was followed by a vigorous attack in bombs and balls, while the compliment was spiritedly returned, not without some effect on at least one of the vessels, by a rusty old six-pounder, which had been furnished and mounted on a log for the important occasion. After a few hours spent in this unavailing manner, Admiral Yeo ran down to Pultneyville, about 20 miles eastward of Genesee River, where, on learning how they had been outwitted and deterred from landing by such a handful of militia, their mortification could scarcely restrain all hands from a hearty laugh at the “Yankee trick.” 403

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NEW JERSEY. Area,…………. 7,576 Square Miles. Population in 1860……… (‘72,035 Population in 1870……… 906,096 THE State of New Jersey was one of the original colonies which formed the American Union. It is situated between 38~ 56’ and 41~ 21’ N. latitude, and between 74~ and 75~ 33’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by New York, on the east by New York (from which the Hudson River separates it) and the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by Delaware Bay, and on the west by the States of Pennsylvania and Delaware, from which it is separated by the Delawvare River. TOPOGRAPHY. Tihe southern and middle parts of the State are generally low, flat, and sandy, especially along the coast and for some distance inland. The northern part is rugged and mountainous.

Schooley’s, Trowbridge, Ramapo, and Second mountains in the northeast part are ridges of the Alleghany range, making their way across the State from Pennsylvania into New York. The Blue Mountains cross the extreme northwestern part of the State, running parallel with the Delaware River at this point. Southeast of Raritan Bay, there is a range of high hills, extending for a short distance along the coast, called the LNevesink Highlands. They are crowned with a lighthouse and signal station, and are the first land seen by vessels entering the port of New York, and the last on leaving it. Along the Atlantic coast, the shores are cut up with numerous inlets, into some of which flow the principal rivers of the State. Some of these furnish excellent harbors. Raritan Bay, in the northeast part, lies opposite the harbor of New York, and possesses many ad 404

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NEW JERSEY. vantages for commerce over the waters of the Great Metropolis.

Newark Bay is connected with it by Staten Island Sound, and is really little more than a broad estuary by which the Passaic River finds its way to the sea. It also receives the waters of the Hackensack River. The Delaware River and Bay wash the entire western side of the State. The river rises on the western slope of the Catskill Mountains, in New York.

It at first consists of two branches, which unite near Hancock, in Delaware county, on the southwest border of the State. Flowing southeast, it forms the boundary between New York and Pennsylvania as far as the northwest corner of New Jersey, where its course is inflected to the southwest by the Kittatinny (or Shawangunk) Mountain. It pursues this course to near the 41 st parallel of N. latitude, when it breaks through the Blue Mountains by the famous Delaware Water Gap, and flows southward.

The “Gap” is one of the most celebrated places in the country. It lies in the State of Pennsylvania, but for convenience is mentioned here. The cliffs rise up perpendicularly from 1000 to 1200 feet highl, and the river rushes through it in grand style. It is much visited by tourists. The river flows southward until it passes Easton, Pa., when it turns again to the southeast, which course it pursues to its mouth. Its current is broken by a succession of Rapids at Trenton, but below this city it is smooth and deep. The river is 300 miles long, and is navigable for ships of the line to Philadelphia, about 40 miles from its entrance into Delaware Bay.

Steamboats ascend to Trenton. A canal has been constructed from Bristol, below Trenton, to Easton, Pa., along the wvest side of the river. A heavy trade is carried on by means of it. The Delaware is bridged in several places along its upper course, commencing at Trenton. A canal, extending from Trenton to New Brunswick, connects it with the waters of the Raritan River and New York Bay. Philadelphia and Easton, on the right bank, and Trenton, Burlington, and Camden, on the left bank, are the principal towns ol the river. The Hudson River washes part of the eastern shore of the State. The other streams are the Raritan, rising in Morris county, and flowing into Raritan Bay, navigable to New Brunswick; the Passaic, rising in Morris county, and flowing into Newark Bay, navigable to Newark; and the Hackensack, which rises in Bergen county, and flows into Newark Bay.

The Passaic has a perpendicular fall of 50 feet, at Paterson. A number of small streams flow into the inlets on the east coast. 405

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Cape iay, on the extreme southeastern side of Delaware Bay, is one of the most fashionable watering places in America. Long Branch, on the Atlantic coast, near New York, is another fashionable resort, and ranks next to Newport in the list of sea-shore resorts. There are several others on the Atlantic coast. The scenery of the State is very beautiful in many places, and very dreary in others. The Falls of the Passaic are noted for their beauty when the stream is full; and the mountainous region of the north, especially the country along the upper Delaware, is wild and picturesque. The Nevesink Highlands command a fine view of the ocean, and of Raritan and New York bays. The country northwest of New York is finely cultivated, and is well built up with numerous pretty towns and villages. MINERALS. Central and southern New Jersey contain immense beds of marl, which is now growing in favor as a fertilizer. The changes in the agriculture of the State, caused by the introduction and general use of this cheap manure, are almost marvellous.

These deposits seem to be inexhaustible, and for the most part lie very near the surface of the ground. Bog ore is found in the southern counties, and hematite and magnetic ores in the hilly regions of the north. Marble, limestone, slate, beds of peat, copperas, and a fine sand used in making glass are found. In Sussex county are situated the most valuable zinc mines in the Union. CLIMATE. The climate of the northern and northwestern parts of the State is severe. In the eastern and southern the winters are milder. The summers are hot and dry, but the spring comes early, and is pleasant. The southern and eastern parts are, to a great extent, marshy, and covered with rank, coarse vegetation. Agues and fever prevail along almost the entire water line of the State, and in many of the interior districts. The northern and northwestern portions are healthy. SOIL AND

PRODUCTIONS. Along the sea coast, and in some of the interior regions, the soil consists of a fine white sand, and is worthless for agriculture. The hilly region of the north is devoted to dairy farming and grazing. The soil of the greaterportion of the State is light and sandy, and was for 406

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NEW JERSEY. GATHERING WATERMELONS. a long time esteemed too poor to justify cultivation, but the liberal and judicious use of fertilizers has brought it to a high, and even remarkable state of fertility. Lying so near the great cities of New York and Philadelphia, unusual advantages are offered the farmers of this State for the rapid sale of their crops, and as a consequence they are largely engaged in marketgardening. In 1869, there were 1,944,441 acres of improved, and 1,039,086 acres of unimproved land in the State. The remainder of the agricultural wealth of New Jersey, for the same year, is given as follows: Cash value of farms (estimated)……$250,000,000 Value of farming implements and machinery (estimated)…………………………….$7,000,000 Number of horses,…………… 85,460 ” asses and mules……..6,960 ” milch cows……….149,450 young cattle………99,450 ” sheep,……… I…..

140,160 ” swine,……………300,540 Value of domestic animals,………

$19,134,693 Bushels of wheat,………… 1,646,000 407

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bushels of rye……….. ” Indian corn,…….

oats,………. ” potatoes……… barley,……… buckwheat……….

Pounids of butter,…….. cheese………. flax,………. beeswax and honey,…. Gallons of wine……….. Tons of hay………… Value of orchard products (about),.. ” market garden products (about), “
slaughtered animals (about),. COMMERCE. Though admirably situated for commerce, it is the misfortune of New Jersey to lie just between the great ports of New York and Philadelphia, which of course manage her commerce for her. This situation, however, throws an enormous internal transit trade into her hands, and has given to her railroads and steamboat communications an importance they would not otherwise have attained. Some idea of this may be gained from the following statistics. In 1867, the Camden and Amboy Railroad and Transportation Company carried over their road, 539,688 tons of freight, and 40,667 tons of coal. The Delaware and Raritan Canal in the same year transported 1,838,968 tons of coal, 2,636,738 cubic feet of timber, 20,348,288 feet of lumber, 2,605,012
bushels of grain and feed, 55,630 tons of iron, and 365,751 tons of merchandise. In 1861, the total value of the exports of this State was $46,067, and of the imports $5510. In 1863, the imports were valued at $3616, and the exports at $56,192. In 1863, the tonnage owned in the State was 138,046 tons. - MANUFACTURES. The waterpower of the State is excellent, and the manufactures are extensive. In 1860 there were 4060
establishments in New Jersey, devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing 127,720 hands, and a capital of $40,000,000, consuming raw material worth $42,600,000, and yielding an annual product of $81,000,000. The following is a list of the principal manufactures of the State in 1860: 408 .. 1,500,000 .. 9,200,000 .. 6,440,000 .. 5,300,000

.. 26,000 .. 800,000 .. 10,714,447 .. 182,172 .. 48,651 .. 194,055 ..

22,000 .. 525,000 .., $1,000,000 $2,000,000 $5,000,000

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;4 . $‘w 409 I”4 1 k , Ilk I I. ‘A f M5 w 4 ,, I

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11

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NEW JERSEY. Value of cotton goods…….. woollen good.-……..1 “
leather………. ” pig-iron……….. ” rolled iron,……… i steamin engines and machinery. ” agricultural implements,…. sawved and planed lumber,.. flour……….. ” malt and spirituous liquors,. ” boots and shoes……. jewelry, silverware, etc.,… INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. ,=.._=

This State is amply provided with railroad - communication. Four great lines, the New _ C Jersey, Erie, Central New Jersey, and Morris - and Essex, afford direct and unbroken trans portation to all parts of the West, and the i.~….~ Camden and Amboy extends across the State, from New York to Philadelphia. Five main TIIE BERGEN TUXXNEL. routes centre in Jersey City, opposite New York, and four in Camden, opposite Philadelphia.

In 1868, there were 904 miles of completed railroads in the State, constructed at a cost of $55,995,000. Two canals, having an aggregate length of 147 miles, extend across the State, one from Bordentown (through Trenton) to New Brunswick, affording steam transportation between the Delaware and Raritan rivers, and the other extending from Jersey City and Newark to Easton, Pennsylvania. EDUCATION. The educational system of New Jersey is controlled by a State Superintendent and Board of Education, the latter consisting of 17 persons, who are appointed for two years. Each county is in charge of a County Superintendent, who has immediate charge of its schools. There is a Normal School at Trenton, and a Normal Preparatory School at Beverly, both in flourishing condition. There is a permianent School Fund amounting to $557,115. In 1867, the State expended the stum of $896,530 on its schools. The number of children in the State, between the ages of five and eighteen years, in 1870, was 258, 411 …

$3,250,770 … 1,527,209 … 1,297,627 … 574,820 … 1,370,725 …

3,215,673 … 198,211 … 1,600,000 … 6,400,000 … 1,357,000 …

1,850,137 … 2,281,344

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. 227. Of these, 161,683 attended the public schools, and 32,447 attended private schools, making a total of 194,130 children receiving instruction. A number of private schools, and several academies are in successful operation in the State. The Colleye of New Jersey, at Princeton, is the oldest in the State, hlaving been established in 1746.

It is in a flourishing condition, and is justly regarded as one of the principal educational establishments of the Union. Rutuer’s College, at New Brunswick, is also a flourishiig institution. Connected with it is the State Agricultural Colleye, which is in prosperous operation. The instruction is by the example of the college farm, and the lectures of the Professor of Agriculture, delivered in all the counties of the State.

There are several other colleges and theological seminaries in the State.

In 1860, there were 725 libraries in INew Jersey, containing 433,321
volumes. Of these 402, containing 250,485 volumes, are public. In the same year, there were published in the State 15 daily, 1 semiweekly, 70 weekly and 3 monthly newspapers and magazines. Of these, 79 were political, 2
religious, 7 literary, and 1 miscellanleous, making a total of 89, with an aggregate annual circulation of 12,801,412 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

The State Prison, at Trenton, is overcrowded, and is in great need of more extensive buildings. The labor of the convicts is let out to contractors.

The separate and silent systems are not in force in this institution, to the injury of its discipline. A library is provided for the prisoners. On the 1st of January, 1868, there were about 550 convicts confined here, or nearly 200 more than the prison was designed to accommodate. The State Lunatic Asylum, at Trenton, is a flourishing institution, with 450
patients on the 1st of November, 1867. The State also maintains a flourishing Reform School, at Jamesbutrg, a Home for I)isabled Soldiers, at Newark, and a tome for Soldiers’ Children, at Trenton, and makes a liberal provision for its deaf, dumb, and blind, in the establishments of Philadelphia and HIartford. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the total value of church property in the State was $7,762,705. The number of churches was 1123. 412

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NEW JERSEY. FINANCES. The State debt is due entirely on account of the late war, and amounts to $2,996,200. Deducting assets it is $1,880,594.

The receipts of the Treasury for eleven months of 1870 were $631,303.66, and the expenditures, $562,123.71, leaving a balance on hand of $69,179.95. In 1868, there were 54 national banks, with an aggregate paid in capital of $11,583,450. GOVERNMENT. The Constitution of this State was adopted in 1844. By its terms, every white male citizen of the United States, 21 years old, having resided in the State one year and in the county five months, is entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is confided to a Governor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Comptroller, AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 21
members), and a House of Representatives (of 60 members). The Governor is elected by the people for the term of three years. The Senators are elected for three years, one-third every year; and the Representatives annually for one year. The Secretary of State holds office for five years, is appointed by the Governor by and with the advice and consent of the Senate. The State Treasurer is elected by the Legislature, on joint ballot, and holds office for one year. The Cotirt of Chancery is held by the Chancellor. The Supreme Court is composed of a Chief Justice and six Associate Justices. The members of this court and the Chancellor are appointed by the Governor, confirmed by the Senate, and hold office for seven years. The Court of Errors and Appeals consists of the Chancellor, the Judges of the Supreme Court, and six other judges (appointed and confirmed in the manner stated above, for a period of six years, one judge going out of office each year). The State is divided into seven districts.

A Judge of the Supreme Court is assigned to each one of these, and holds in his district courts of Oyer and Terminer three times a year in each county. He is also ex-officio judge of the court of Commnon Pleas, Orphans Court, and Court of Quarter Sessions in his district. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 21 counties. The seat of Government is located at Trenton. 413

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. HISTORY. New Jersey was settled by the Dutch, soon after their arrival in New Amsterdam. They established a colony at Bergen, between the years 1617 and 1620. In 1630, they built a small fort on the Delaware, below the present city of Philadelphia. In 1634, a company of English settlers, under the authority of a patent from their king, settled on the shores of the lower Delaware; and in 1638, the same region was colonized by a party of Swedes and Finns. The Dutch and Swedes drove out the English settlers, and in 1655, the Swedes, themselves, were driven out by the Dutch, and nearly all sent back to Europe. When the province of New York was seized by the English, New Jersey went with it. Soon after this, Elizabethtown, Newark, Middletown, and Shrewsbury were founded. A little later, and the district was purchased from the Duke of York, by Sir George Carteret and Lord Berkeley, and erected into a separate province with its present name. The seat of government was established at Eliza)eth, and some little difficulty was experienced in inducing the inhabitants to submit to the new authorities. The province suffered considerably from the despotic rule of Sir Edmund Andros. For some time, the government of the province was a condition of semi-anarchy, owing to the refusal of the home Government to recognize the claims of the proprietors. This dispute was complicated by the claim of Pennsylvania to the southern part of the State. It was settled in 1702, by the proprietors surrendering the right of government to the Crown. The provinces of New York and New Jersey were allowed separate Assemblies, but were both placed by Queen Anne under one Governor. In 1708, NTew Jersey protested against this arrangement, and was given a separate Governor, in the person of Lewis Morris. The colony suffered very little from the Indians, lint bore its share in the wars with the French. It gave a hearty support, and played a conspicuous part in the great Revolution. During this war, the battles of Trenton, Princeton, Millstone, Red Bank, and Monmouth, were fought in this State, whose territory was more or less occupied by the two armies during the greater part of the war. The first State Constitution was adopted in 1776.

On the 18th of December, 1787, the Constitution of the United States was ratified by New Jersey; and in 1790, the seat of government for the State was established at Trenton. 414

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NEW JERSEY. During the late war, New Jersey contributed a force of 79,348
men to the service of the Union. CITIES AND TOWNS. The principal cities and towns are, Trenton, the capital of the State, Newark, Jersey City, Paterson, Elizabeth, Camden, New BruLnswick, Orange, Morristown, Rahway, Burlington, Hackensack, Bridgeton, Bloomfield, Middletown, and Bordentown.

TRENTON, The capital, and fourth city of the State, is situated on the left bank of the Delaware River, in Mercer county, at the head of steamboat navigation. It is 30 miles northeast of Philadelphia, and 57
miles southwest of New York. The city is divided into two parts by the Assunpink Creek-Trenton proper and South Trenton. It is regularly laid out, and has many fine stores and handsome dwellings. It is built on a tolerably uneven surface. State street, which runs parallel with the river, contains many elegant residences. Main street, which intersects it at right angles, is the principal business thoroughfare. The situation of the city on the Delaware is very beautiful, and commands extensive views of the river and the vicinity. A fine, covered bridge crosses the Delaware at the lower part of the town, connecting Trenton with the Pennsylvania shore of the river. It is used by the railway and by vehicles and pedestrians. Another bridge, also covered, spans the river about a mile above. The Delaware and Raritan Canal passes through the city, connecting it with New York and Philadelphia. There is railway communication between Trenton and all parts of the State and country. There is excellent waterpower at Trenton, and the city is to a considerable extent engaged in the manufacture of iron and iron-ware, flour, paper, locomotives, cars, etc. The public buildings are, the City Hall; the State Capitol, a handsome edifice of stone, 100 by 60 feet, situated on State street, and overlooking the river; the County Court Hotose, built in the Grecian style; the State ILunatic Asylum; and the State Penitentiary. The State Library is also located at Trenton. The city possesses a system of public schools equal to any in the State in usefulness; it contains over 20
chlurches; and is governed by a Mayor and Council. The population in 1870
was 22,874. 415

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. Trenton was first settled by Phineas Pemberton and others, about 1680. In 1720 the settlement was called Trenton, in honor of Colonel WA illiam Trent, speaker of the Assembly. In 1790 it became the seat of Government for the State of New Jersey, and in 1792 was incorporated as a city. The most important event in its history is the battle of Trenton, which was fought within the present limits of the city, on the 26th of December, 1776. The Americans had lost the battle of Long Island, and had been forced to evacuate the City of New York, which was promptly occupied by the British under Sir Henry Clinton. A series of disasters ensued, and at the end of the year 1776 Washington had been driven across the Delaware, and the only troops that remained faithful to their colors consisted of less than 4000 half-starved men, destitute of blankets and tents. The people of the country were rapidly coming to the conclusion that the Colonial cause was hopeless, and were beginning to make their peace with the Royal authorities. Washington alone was hopeful, and he alone was resolved to put an end to the gloom of the situation.

Learning that a large force of Hessians had been thrown forward to Trenton, where they held an exposed position, he suddenly faced about, crossed the Delaware in open boats, despite the snow and ice, on the night of December 25th, 1776, and at daybreak the next morning made a sharp attack on the Hessian force, surprising them and routing them completely.

He took about 1000 prisoners, 6 brass field pieces, 1000 stand of arms, and 4 standards, and lost but 4 of his own men. On the night of the 26th he recrossed the Delaware to his own camp in Pennsylvania. This victory was highly important, as it marks the close of the long series of reverses we have referred to, and the beginning of the successful resistance of the nation. From this time forward the despondent took fresh courage from the example set them by their great commander, and with stout hearts and strong arms fresh attacks were made upon the enemy, resulting finally in the nation’s independence. Twelve years later, as Washington was returning from New York to Mount Vernon, he was accorded a most enthusiastic and touching welcome by the citizens at Trenton Bridge. NEWARK, The largest and most important city in the State, is situated in Essex county, on the right bank of the Passaic River, 4 miles from its entrance into Newark Bay, 9 miles west of New York. The site of the city is chiefliy a large plain, bounded on the west by a range of 416

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N”.EW JERSEY. moderate heights which extend from the northern to the southern limits of the town. The city is regularly laid off, and the streets are broad, straight, and shaded with fine trees. Broad street is the prin cipal thoroughfare, and is one of the handsomest streets in the country. It is 120 feet wide, and is lined with noble elms. At intervals along its course, are tastefully laid off parks, famous for their beautifill trees. These parks are surrounded by elegant residences, and constitute the fashionable quarters of the city. MAarket street intersects Broad street, about the centre of the city, and communicates with the principal railway depot. The private streets are generally attractive. The more pretentious residences are of brown stone, freestone, or brick, but the city is, as a rule, built up with tasteful frame cottages located often in the miidst of large grounds. Large numbers of persons doing business in New York have their residences in Newark. Upwards of 200
passenger trains go and come between the two cities every day. The public buildings are generally handsome. The principal are, the Ciy Hall, the Customi House and Post Office, the Court House, and the Libraiy Buidintg.

They are all elegant and costly edifices. In addition to these, there are several buildings used by banks, insurance companies, and merchants, wh]lich are worthy of special notice. The Literary and Educational Institutions are of a high character. Those most deserving notice are the Neiw Jersey Historical Society, with a fine library of over 2000 volumes; the Library Association, with anl eleg,ant building and( a collection of over 14,000 volumes; the Newaerk Acadenmy, beautifully located in’the most elevated part of the city; and the public schools, of which there are 12, and a high school. There are more than 75 churches in the city, some of which are very handsome. The city is well supplied with street railways; it is lighted with gas, is supplied with pure water, has an excellent system of sewers, and has a police and fire alarm telegraph, a steam fire engine department, paid by the city, and an efficient police force. The Passaic River, which is navigable for steamers to the upper portion of the city, furnishes good water commutnication with New Yorkl and the ocean.

The NMorris Canal, extending from Easton, Pa., to Jersey City, passes through Newark. At its entrance into the western portion of the city is a steep inclined plain, over which loaded boats are passed on trucks, the motive power being furnished by the water of the canal. There is daily steamboat communication with N’ew York, with which city Newark is connected by 3 lines of rail 27 417

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. way. Railways diverge from Newark to the principal towns of the State. The city has grown with great rapidity during the last 25 years, and owes its prosperity chiefly to its manufacturing interests.

These are scattered through a number of generally small establishments, but foot up an enormous aggregate. There are over 550 establishments in the city, the annual product of which is estimated at over $25,000,000. It is the principal point in the Union for the manufacture of jewelry. India rubber goods, carriages, omnibuses, machinery, castings, leather, boots, shoes, saddles, harness, trunks, and clothing are manufactured in large quantities. The India Rubber Works are very extensive, as are those for the manufacture of carriages, omnibuses, machinery, castings, etc. Newark is a port of entry, but its commerce is almost entirely confined to the coasting trade. Its proximity to New York renders it insignificant as a port. The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. The population in 1870
was 105,059. The foreign population is very large, and the city is the see of a Roman Catholic Bishop. Ini 1830 the population was 10,950; in 1840, 17,290; in 1850, 38,983; in 1860, 71,914. Newark was settled in May, 1666, by a company of 30 families from New Haven, led by Captain Robert Treat, and the next year they were joined by an equal number of settlers from Guilford and Branford, Conn., led by their minister, the Rev. Abraham Pierson. Mr. Pierson had come originally from Newark, in England, and the new settlement was called after his old home. “Their object seems to have been to establish a Puritan community, to be administered under the laws of God, by members of the church, on strictly democratic principles. They left Connecticut because the colony of New Haven, to which they belonged, had been united to the Connecticut colony of Hartford, a union which interfered with tlfeir independence. The proprietors of New Jersey had just issued their liberal proposals to settlers, known as’the grants and concessions;’ and Treat and Pierson, and their associates, having obtained from Philip Carteret, the proprietary governor, a licence to purchase land, paid to the Indians for the tract which now constitutes Newark, Clinton, Orange, Bloomfield and Belleville, ~310 New England currency, 12

Indian blankets, and 12 Indian guns. The settlers laid out the town plat of Newark, with its spacious streets and parks as they now exist. A homestead lot of 6 acres was assigned to each settler or head of family, 418

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NEW JERSEY. with out-lands and meadow for agricultural purposes, farming having for several generations constituted the main pursuit of the inhabitants. They passed a law that none should become freemen or free burgesses of the town, or vote at its elections, or be chosen to the magistracy, or to any chief military trust or office, but such planters as were members of the congregational churches; though all others admitted to be planters should have right to their inheritanc(es, and all other civil rights and privileges. Their first care was to build a meetinghouse, and in 1676 a schoolhouse was established.” Tile settlement prospered, and in 1683 contained 100 families. Tile troubles of the Revolution struck a severe blow at it, and scattered the population. After the close of the war its prosperity returned. The stone quarries in the vicinity were extensively worked, and the manufacture of shoes, carriages, and cider made it a place of importance. In 1794 bridges were built over the Passaic and Hackensack, which had until then been passed by means of ferry boats, and the intercourse of Newark with New York was thus greatly facilitated.

In 1832 the Morris Canal, connecting the city with Easton, Pa., was conmpleted; in 1834 the railway to Jersey City was opened; and in 1836

Newark was incorporated as a city. JERSEY CITY, The second city in the State, is situated in Hudson county, on the right bank of the Hudson River, at its entrance into New York Bay, and immediately opposite the city of New York. The city limits at present include Jersey City, Hoboken, Hudson City, and the other towns in Hudson county. The site of Jersey City proper is low and fiat, as is that of Hoboken, but Hudson City and the other towns now included within the corporate limits lie on a range of bold heights, extending back from the Hudson, which command fine views of New York and the surrounding country on both sides of tile Hudson. From the highest point on these heights, New York, Brooklyn, the neighboring towns in Westchester county, New York, Jersey City, Newark, Paterson, Orange, and Elizabeth, the Hudson, East Hackensack, and Passaic rivers, New York and Newark Bays, Long Island Sound, and the Atlantic Ocean, may all be seen. The streets are generally wide and straight, crossing each other at right angles. The appearance of the city is not prepossessing, though there are some handsome localities. There are no public buildings worthy of mention, though the city promises to improve in this re 419

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TiHE GREAT REPUBLIC. spect. Jersey City is, in fact, but a mere suburb of LNew York, having very little importance of its own. Its public schools are good; it has a number of chlurchles; is well supl)plied with street railways; is lighted with gas, and fiurnished with pure water from the Passaic River, 7 or 8 miles distant. It is, to a limited extent, engaged in manufactures. Being included waithllin the limits of the port of New York, it has no commerce of its own. It is the terminius of the Morris Canal, connecting it with Easton, Pa., by means of which it carries on a large coal trade. It is also the terinius of the New Jersey Central, the New York and Newark, the New Jersey, the Northern New Jersey, the Erie, and the Morris and Essex railways. The Cunard Mail Steamers, sailing to Liverpool, and the steamers to Bremen and Hamburg, have their docks in Jersey Citv. The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 82,547. The peninsula upon which Jersey City proper stands was granted to Sir AWilliamn IKieft, Director-Genieral of the Dutch West India Comlpany, in 1638, but it was used almost exclusively for farming purposes until the beginning of the present century. It was known as Paulus Hook. In 1802, there were but 13 persons living on the peninsula, and but one house and its outbuildings on the site of the present city. In 1804, the place was laid out in blocks. In 1820, the “city of Jersey” was incorporated, with a board of select-nmmi; and in 1838, the place was reincorporated as Jersey City. In 1870, its limnits were extended so as to include Hoboken, Hudson City, and the neighboring towns. PATERSON, The third city in the State, is situated in Passaic countvy, New Jersev, on the right bank of the Passaic RIiver, imnmed(liately below the fialls of that stream, 13 miles north of Newark, and 17 miles northwest of New York.

Although the third city in population, it is the second in importance, in consequence of its manufaetures. The city is well laid out, and is handsome in appearance. The streets are straight, well paved, and lighted with gas. There are many elegant dwellings in the private portions, the city being a favorite place of residence with persons doing business in New York. The scenery in the vicinity of the falls is very beautiful, and attracts many visitors. 420

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NEiW JERSEY. PASSAIC AT PATERSON. The Morris Canal furnishes water transportation to the ocean, and the Erie and other railways afford communication with all parts of the Union. The Passaic has here a total descent of 72 feet, and a perpelndicular fall of 50 feet. This affords an immense waterpower, wvllich has been improved by a dam and canals. The power thus sup)plied by the falls turns many factories, several of which occupy extensive buildings of stone. There are over 20 establ)lishments in the city, includiing the largest silk works in the United States. Silks, cotton goods, machinery, locomotives, guns, paper, carriages, steam engines, etc., are extensively produced here. The city contains a number of excellent public schools, about 16 churches, and is supplied with water fromn the Passaic. It is governed by a Mayor and Council, elected by the people. In 1870 the population was 35,582. Paterson was laid out in 1791, by an incorporated company, possessing a capital of $1,000,000. Their object was to use the falls for the manufacture of cotton cloth, but this being found premature was abandoned. In 1860 the population was 19,586.

421 FALLS OF

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TTIE GREAT REPUBLIC. ELIZABE’RH, The fifth city in the State, is situated in Union county, 15 miles westsouthwest of New York, and 5 miles south by west of Newark. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and is one of the handsomest cities in the State. It is mainly taken ulp with frame cottages and villas, but brown stone and brick are now coming into general use. Street railways connect its various parts, and the New Jersey and New Jersey Central Railways intersect each other here, and connect it with New York and the various parts of the country. It contains several large manufactories, a number of handsome buildings devoted to business, and over 20 churches, some of which are very handsome. Large numbers of persons doing business in New York reside here. Its public schools are noted for their excellence. It is lighted with gas; is supplied with water; and is provided with an efficient police force, and a steam fire department. It is governed by a Mayor and Council, elected by the people.

In 1870 the population was 20,838. Elizabeth was settled iii 1655, and was for a long time the capital and chief town of the Colony and State. It has always been noted as one of the most cultivated towns in the Union.

CAMDEN, The sixth city of New Jersey, is situated on the left bank of the Delaware River, in Camden county, immediately opposite the city of Philadelphia, with which it is connected by means of 4 steam ferries. It is 32 miles south-southwest of Trenton. It is located in a large plain, and is regularly laid off. It is well built, and contains some handsome residences and commercial buildings. It owes its importance to its powerful neighbor, Philadelphia. It contains some extensive manufacturing establishments, and is the terminus of the Camden and Amboy, New Jersey Southern, and West Jersey railways. It is lighted with gas; is supplied with water; and has a steam fire department, and an effective police force. Its public schools are good and numerous, and it contains one or two literary institutions. It is governed by a Mayor and Council, chosen by the people. In 1870, the population was 20,045. The city was incorporated in 1831. The other important towns of the State are New Brunswick, on the Raritan River; Rahway, between New Brunswick and Elizabeth; Burlington, on the Delaware River, below Trenton; and Orange, near 422

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NEW JERSEY. i Newark. Long Branch, in Monmouth county, and Atlantic City, in Atlantic county, on the sea shore, and Cape May, in Cape Mlay county, at the mouth of the Delaware Bay, are among the most fashionable watering places in the Union. THE BATTLE OF’I’RENTON. The summer and fall of 1776
was the most gloomy period of the American revolution. General WAVashlington had been obliged to retreat from Long Island to inew Yorlk, thence over the Hudson to New Jersey, and through New Jersey to Pennsylvania, vigorously pursued by an enemy flushed with a series of success. The retreat through New Jersey was attended with circumstances of a painful and trying nature. Washlington’s army, which had consisted of 30,000 men, w-as now diminished to scarcely 3000, and these were without supplies, without pay, and many of them without shoes or comfortable clothing. Their footsteps were stained with blood as they fled before the enemy. The affairs of the Americans seemed in such a desperate condition, that those who had been most confident of success, began despairingly to give up all for lost. Many Americans joined the British, and took protections from them. In this season of general despondency, the American Congress recommended to each of the States to observe ” a (lay of solemn fasting and humiliation before God.” General Wasllington saw the necessity of making a desperate effort for the salvation of his country. On the night of the 25tlth of December, 1776, the American army recrossed the Delaware, whichl was filled with pieces of floating ice, and marched to attack a division of Hessians, who had advanced to Trenton. The sun had just risen, as the tents of the enemy appeared in sight. No time was to be lost Washlington, rising on his stirrups, waved his sword towards the hostile army, and exclaimed, ” There, my brave friends, are the enemies of your country! and no?o aCl I have to ask of you is, to remember what you are about to .flyht for! lVarclh!” The troops, animated by their commander, pressed on to the charge; the Hessians were taken by surprise, and the contest was soon decided; about 1000 were taken prisoners, and 40
killed, among whom was their commander, (a German officer,) Colonel Rahl.

In thlis important expedition, Washington divided his troops into three parts, 423

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THiE GIEA’[T REPUBLIC. which were to assemble on the banks of thle Delaware, on the nighit of the 25thl of December. One of these divisions, led by General Irvine, was dclirecteJ to cross the Delaware at the Trenton ferry, and secure the bridge below the town, so as to prevent the escape of any part of the enemy by that road. Another division, led by General Cadwallader, was to cross over at Bristol, and carry the post at Burlington. The third, which was the principal division, and consisted of about 2400 Continental troops, commanded by General Washington in person, was to cross at I’Koionkey’s ferry, about nine miles above Trenton, and to mnarcli against the enemy posted at that town. The night fixed on for the enter I)rise was severly cold. A storm of snow, mingled with hail and rain, fell in great quantities; and so much ice was made in the river, that the artillery could not be got over until three o’clock; and before the troops could take up their line of marchi it was nearly four. Tile general, who had hoped to throw them all over by twelve o’clock, now despaired of surprising the town; but knowing that hlie could not repass the river without being discovered and harassed, lie determined, at all events, to push forward. Ie accordingly formed his detaclhment into two divisions, one of which was to mnarchl by the lower or river road, the other, by the upper or Pennington road. As the distance to Trenton by these two roads wvas nearly the same, the general, supposing that his two divisions would arrive at the place of destination about the same time, ordered each of them, immediately on forcing the outguards, to push directly into the town, that they might charge the enemy before they had time to form. The upper division, accompanied by the general himself, arrived at the enemy’s advanced post exactly at eight o’clock, and immediately drove in the outguards. In three minutes, a firing from the division that had taken the river road, gave notice to the general of its arrival. Colonel Ralil, a very gallant Hessian officer, who commanded in Trenton, soon formed his main body, to meet the assailants; but at the commencement of the action he received a mortal wound. His troops, at once confused and hard pressed, and having already lost their artillery, attempted to file off by a road on the right, leading to Princeton; but General Washington perceiving their intention, threw a body of troops in their friont, which intercepted and assailed them. Finding thelmselves surrounded, they laid down their arms. About 20 of the enemy were killed; and 909, including officers, surrendered themselves prisoners of war. The number of prisoners was soon increased to about 1000, by the additional capture of those who had concealed themselves in houses. Six field pieces, and a 1000 stand of small arms, were also taken. Of the Americans, two privates only were killed; two were frozen to death; one officer and three or four privates were wounded. General Irvine being prevented by the ice from crossing the Delaware, the lower road toward Bordentown remlainedcl open: and about 500 of the enemy, sttioned in the lower end of Trenton, crossing over the bridge in the commencement of the action, marched down the river to Bordentown. General Cadwallader was prevented by the same cause from attacking the post at Burlington. This well-judged and successful enterprise, revived the depressed spirits of the colonists, and produced an immediate and happy effect in recruiting the American army.

TIlE MURDER OF THE REV. JAMES CALDWELL. The next summer, in June, Knyphlausen made his sudden and apparently objectless inroad into New Jersey. On the night of the 24th, Mlr. Caldwell slep)t 424

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NEW JERSEY. in his own house, but was wakened early in the morning by the news of the approach of the enemy. MIounting his horse in haste, lie started for headquarters with the information. He had proceeded but a short distance, however, when ile began to have serious fears for his wife and family that le had left behind. The former, when she bade him good-bye, told him that she had no apprelensions for her owni safety, for the enemy, she said, would not hlarm her and her little children. HIe had often left tllhem in a similar way before, and always found them safe on his return, but now he was oppressed withl unusual anxiety, and, after strivinug in vain to shake it off, turned his horse and galloped back. As lie rode up to the door, his wife came out to inquire what lie wanted. lIe told her that hlie wishled her and the children to accompany him to camp, for lie felt very uneasy about leaving them behind. But she, knowing they would encumber his miovemlents, smiled at his fears, saying there was no danger at all, and declined entirely to leave the house. In the meantime she went in and brought from the breakfast table a warmi cup of coffee.

While he sat on his horse drinking it, the enemy came in si,lght. Ilanding back the cup, and flinging her a hlasty farewell, and commending her to the care and mercy of the God in whom they both trusted, he struck his spurs into his horse and dashed away. He had not been gone long before she had cause to regret that she had not yielded to his entreaties, for columns of smoke rising in the distanlce-tlthe screams of terrified women and children running through the streets, told her thlat the enemy was on a raid, and murder and devastation were miarking their passage. She saw at once that she was surrounded with deadly perils, but calm as became the wife of a hero as well as clergyman, she took her ilifant and retired into a private room to commit herself and clhildren in prayer to God. Arising frIom her devotions, she sat down upon the bed, and was pondering on her desolate condlitioii, Nwhlen the maid, who had accomlpaniiied her witli the other children, stepped to the window to look out. As she did so, she saw a “red coat jump over the feuce into the yard. Alarmed, she turned quickly and told MIrs. Caldwell. The latter knew at once that evil was intended her, and arose from the bed either to watch the man’s actions or to pass out of the room, whlen the villain catught a glimpse of her thl,rough the window. He knew her at a glance, and, having come onl purpose to kill her, lie raised his musket and fired at her through the window, when she fell amid her terrified clhildren, pierced by two balls.

In the midst of the alarm and confusion that followed, the torch was applied to the house, and soon the little parsonage was wrapped in flames.

It was wVithl great difficulty that some of the nei,ghbors, whom the maid informed of the murder, were enabled to drag the body out of the burning building. But, liaving accomiplishled this, they were compelled to flee, leaving it exposed in the hot sun in the public street, where it lay for hours with no one humane elough to throw a covering over the pale and ghastly face. At leugtli some of her friends obtained permission from the enemy to remove it into the only house left standing near by. MIr.

Caldwell was at the ” Short Hillls,” with the army, while this murderous scene was being enacted at his quiet home. That evening passing by chance two soldiers who were talking in whispers, he heard the name of “M Irs.

Caldwell” repeated two or three times. Suspecting at once that something was wrong, he asklied them what they were talkling about-if anything had happened to Mrs. Caldwell. They at first hesitated to reply, unwilling to break to him the painful intelligence, but hlie besoulght them so earnestly to let him know the worst that 425

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. they finally told him all. The good man staggered like a smitten ox under the sudden blow, and turned pale as death. Rallying, however, hlie murmured a broken prayer and turned away to weep alone. That was a painful night to the noble patriot, for not only did le miourn deeply over the tragical end of his wife, whom hlie loved tenderly, but hlie was filled with apprehension respecting his or phlaned children, one of whom was an infant-now in possession of the enemy. In the morning hlie procured a flag of truce and went over to “Connecticut Farms.” The quiet little village was a heap of smoking ruins, with only here and there a solitary building standing as monuments to mark the desolation. InI one of these lay the lifeless body of his wife, and in an adjoining apartment were grouped his wee)ping children. The enecmy, after burning Connecticut Farms, kept on towards Springfield, with the intention of committing the same barbarous cruelties there. Mr. Cald well, after seeing his wife buried and his children placed in the care of one of his parishioners, hastened forward to join the armly. At Springfield, a sharp en gagement took place between the einemy and the American troops, and though the former were compelled to beat a hasty retreat, it was not till they had burned the village to the ground. MIr. Caldwell was in the hottest of the fight, and see ing the fire of one of the companies slackening for want of wadding, lie galloped to the Presbyterian meeting house near by, and, rushing in, ran from pew to pew, filling his arms with hymn books.

Hastening back with these into the battle, he scattered them about in every direction, saying, as he pitched one here and another there, ” Now, put Watts into tlhem, boys.” Witlh a laugh and a cheer, they pulled out the leaves, and ramming home the charges did give the British Watts with a will. The next year this patriotic, gifted man met the tragical fate of his wife, and sealed his devotion to his country with his blood. New Jersey remained comparatively tranquil after the raid of Knyphausen, and flags of truce were constantly passing to and fro to New York, and only sol diers enough were left in the State to act as sentinels at main points. At this time there lived in New York a family by the name of Murray, who had relatives residing in Elizabethtown, and who were much beloved by the people in the vicinity for their kindness to Jersey prisoners confined in the city. One of the family, Miss Murray, wishing to visit Elizabethtown, camle to Elizabethtown Point on the 24th of November, under a flag of truce. Mr. Caldwell went down in a carriage to meet her, and accompany her to the town. The details of the events that followed, I will let Dr. Murray tell in his own language. “A sentry was kept up at that time at the fort. Tying his horse outside the sentinel, Mr. Caldwell proceeded to the wharf, and taking with him Miss Tirray, placed her in his carriage, and then returned to the boat for a small bundle that belonged to her. Thus hlie passed three times the man who was keeping guard. With a small package he was returning a second time to his carriage, when the sentinel ordered him to stop, thinking, probal)ly, that there was something contraband in the bundle. He replied that the bundle belonged to the young lady in his carriage. The sentinel said that it must be examined. Mr. Caldwell turned quickly about to carry it back to the boat, that it might be opened there, when the fatal ball struck him. The captain of the guard, hearing the report of a gun, looked around, and saw Mr.

Caldwell staggering before him. He ran and caulght him in his arms and laid him on the ground, and without speaking a word hlie almost instantly expired, the ball having passed through his heart. 426

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NEW JERISEY. “The man who shot lhim was James Morgan, belonging to the Jersey mlilitiaall Irishman by birth, and a man of the most debased and profligate character. He w-as always drunk when he could be; and liquor turned him into a savage. His family resided near a well in Elizabethtown, into which a child of his fell one day and was drowned. When hlie returned, he found his child dead, and taking it by the arms hle beat the broken-hearted mother with the dead body of her own child until her cries brought some of the neighbors to her rescue.” AWhethler M[organ was on duty as a sentinel when he shot Caldwell is at least questionable. It is said that on his trial it was proved that he had just been relieved.

Different motives are assigned for the murder. Some say that Morgan was angry because hle had not received his regular wages, and, inasmuch as Caldwell was commissary, supposed “he was responsilble for the neglect;”

others, again, say that lhe was bribed by the British, or Tories. Whatever the motives might have been that influenced him, hlie was, after a fair trial, convicted of murder, and hung the next January. The body of Mr.

Caldwell was placed on some straw in the bottom of a wagon, and taken up to town, and the next Tuesday buried. A IMUTINY IN THE CONTINENTAL ARMY.

The situation of General Washington was often, during the war, embarrassing, for want of proper supplies for the army. It was peculiarly so while at MIorristown, in 1780, where lie had encamped during the winter. The cold was uncommonly severe, and the army suffered extremely.

The following account of the state of the American army is taken from “Grimshaw’s History of the United States: ” “The distress suffered by the American army did not arrive at its highest pitch until the present season. The officers of the Jersey line now addressed a memorial to their State Legislature, complaining, that four months’ pay for a private would not procure for his family a single bushel of wheat; that the pay of a colonel would not purchase oats for his horse; and that a common laborer received four times as much as an American officer. They urged, that unless an immediate remedy was provided, the total dissolution of their line was inevitable; and concluded by saying, that their pay should be realized, either by 3lexican dollars, or something equivalent. Nor was the insufficiency of their support the only motive to complaint. Other causes of discontent prevailed. The original idea of a continental army, to be raised, paid, and regulated upon an equal and uniform principle, had been, in a great measure, exchanged for that of State establishlments; a pernicious measure, partly originating from necessity, because State credit was not quite so much depreciated as continental. Some States, from their superior ability, furnished their troops not only with clothing, but witlh many articles of convenience. Others supplied them with mere necessaries; whlilst a few, from their particular situation, could give little or perhaps nothing. The officers and men, in a routine of duty, daily intermixed and made comparisons. Those who fared worse than others were dissatisfied with a service that allowed such injurious distinctions.

Mutiny began to spread, and at lengthl broke out among the soldiers at Fort Schuyler. Thirty-one privates of the garrison went off in a body.

They were overtaken, and 13 of their number instantly killed. About the same time, two regiments of Connecticut troops mutinied, and got under arms, determined to return home, or gain subsistence by the bayonet. 427

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TIlE GREAT RiEPIUBLIC. Their officers reasoned with thlem, and used every argument that could interest their passions or their pride. Tlhey at first answvered,‘Our sufferings are too great, we want present relief;’ but military feelings were, in the end, triuim phant; after much expostulation, they returned to the encalmpment. It is natural to sup)pose that the British commander would not lose so favor able an opportunity of severing, the discontented from their companions, and attracting them to his own standard. He circulated a printed paper in the Anlleri can camp; tending, to iieiglhten the disord(lers by exal(geration, and create desertionI by promises of bounty and caresses. But, so great Avas tle firmness of the sol diery, and so strolng their attachment to thleir countryi. that on the arrival of only a scanty supply of meiat, for their immediate sul)sistence, military duty was cheerfully performed, and the rolls wvere seldom dishonored by desertion. The necessities of the American army grewT so pressing that Washington was constrained to call on the magistiates of tlhe adjacent counties for specified quan tities of provisions, to be supplied in a give.n nOuiillc of 4t’dls; and was compil)elled even to send out detaclhments to collect subsistence at the poiat of the ba3yonet. Even this expedient at lengthl failed; thle countly iii the vicinity of the army being soon exhausted. IIis situation was painfully embarrassing. The army looked to him for provisions; the inhabitants for protection. To supply the one, and not offend( the other, seemed impossible. To preserve order and subordination in an arnmiy of republicans, even when well fe(l, regularly paid, and conifortably clothed, is not an easy task; but to retain them in service, and subject them to the rules of discipline, when wanting not only the comforts but often the necessaries of life, requires such address and abilities as are rarely found in human nature. These were, however, combined in Washington.

lie not only kept his armiy in the field, but opl)osed those difficulties with so much discretion as to command the approbation of both soldiers and people. “To obviate these evils, Congress sent a committee of its own members to the encampment of the main army.’ They confirmied the representations previously made of the distresses and the disorders arising from coninissalial mismanagemnient, which everywhere prevailed. In particular, they stated that the mainl army was unpaid for five months; that it seldom had more tlhan six days’ provision in advance; and was on different occasions, for several successive days, without meat; that the horses were destitute of forage; that the medical delpartnient had no sugar, tea, chlocolate, wine, or spirituous liquors of any kindil; that every department was without money and without credit; and that the patience of the soldiers, worn down by the pressure of complicated sufferings, was on the point of being exhausted. “MIisfortunes, from every quarter, were at this time pou;ing in upon the United States. But they seemned to rise in the midst of their distresses, and gain strengthl from the pressure of calamities. When Congriess could obtain neither money nor credit for the subsistence of their army, the inhabitants of Plhiladcelpllia gave $300,000 to procure a supply of necessary provisions for the suffering troops; and the ladies of that city, at the same time, contributed largely to their imniediate relief. Their example was generally followed. The patriotic flame which blazed forth in the beginning of the war was rekindled. The different States were ardently excited; and it was arranged that the regular army should be raised to 35,000 effective men.” 42S

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P E SY L V A N I A. AreaP,………….4,(OO00 Square Mtiles. Pol)pulation inl 1%S0…,.. 2,9)0,115 Population ill 1817,……… 3,6 19,601 TI-E

State of Pennsylvania, one of the original members of the Unio’,, lies between 39~ 43’ and 42~ 15’ N. latitude, and between 74~ 42’ and 80~ 35’

W. longitude. Its extreme length is about 310 miles, and its extreme width, firom northl to south, about 160 miles. It is bounded on the north by New York and Lakle Erie, on the east bv New Yorkl and New Jersey, from which it is separated by the DI)elaware River, on the south by Delaware, Maryland, and West Virginia, and on the west by West Virginia and Ohio.

TOPOGRAPHY. ” No State in the Union presents a greater variety of surface than PennsNylvaniia. ThoLugh they do not rise to any great elevation (seldoin above 2000 feet), its mountains spread over about one-fourthl of thle State in parallel ridges, in a direction generally from northeast to southwest, and occupy the southern, central, and eastern counties.

Tlioughl all forming parts of the great Appalachlian chain, they are Iknown bv various local appellations. Commencing below Easton, on the Delaware, we have the South Mountain; then in order, proceeding( west or northwest, the Blue or IKittatinny Mountains (both entering the State from -New Jersey, and passing southwest into MIaryland), and the Broad Mountain, wvhich lies south of the North Branch of the Susquehanna. We now cross the river just mentioned, but still have with us the Broad Mountain, under the name of the Tuscarora; passing which, we comle upon another ridge, lying mostly 429  %’” z~,~-:’~ _,., s.’,,.’~.~‘I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. south of the Juniata River, known as Sideling Hill; which is suc ceeded in turn by the Alleghany Mountains proper, the dividing ridge between the Atlantic slope and the Mississippi Valley. De scencling the very gradual Ohio slope, we cross two inferior but well defined chains, known as Laurel and Chestnut Ridges. As before stated, these mountains do not rise to a great height; the South Moun tain is within 1000, and the Blue Mountain within 1500 feet. Broad Mountain is said to rise higher above its immediate base than the Alleghlany range, but to be inferior to them in elevation above the sea. These different ridges are separated by valleys, now contracted within narrow limits, and now spreading out to a width of from 15 to 30 miles. The entire belt in Pennsylvania spreads over a space of 200 miles-the greatest breadth the Alleghany range attains in its whole course from Maine to Alabama. In the northern part of the State the mountains become high and rugged hills; the wvest is also hilly, an(d the southeast and northwest moderately so, but occasionally level. The rivers of the western part of thie State, cutting their way through the tableland, present sometimes precipitous shores of several hundred feet in height, and many valleys bear evident marks of their having been formed by running water.” * The IDelaware Divei washes the eastern shore of the State, and furniishes the principal means of access to the sea. The city of Philadelphia, the second in size in the Union, is situated on this stream, albout 40 miles friom its entrance into Delaware Bay. The Sitsq~tehanna is the principal river of the State. It is formed by two branches, the eastern rising in Otsego Lake, in central New York, and the western in western Pennsylvania. They unite and form the main stream at Northumberland, 60 miles above Harrisburg. Then flowing in a southeasterly direction, it enters the State of Maryland, andl empties into Chlesapeake Bay. The East, which is also called the North, Branch is 250 miles long, and ale West Branch 200 miles. The length of the main stream is about 150 miles. They all flowv through a very beautiful and fertile country, which is also rich in mineral resources. A series of canals extends from the mouth of the river to Northumberland, and the navigation of its branches is improved in several places. The principal tributary of the Susquehanna is the Juniata, which enters it above Harrisburg, and which is famous for its beautiful and picturesque scenery.

* Lippiucott’s Gazetteer, ). 1453. 430

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PENNSYLVANIA. VIEW ON THE JUNIATA RIVER. The Alleghany River is the principal stream in the western part of the State. It rises in Potter county, and flows northward into New York, after whichl it sweeps back into Pennsylvania, and pursuing a southwesterly course, unites at Pittsburg with the Monongahela (which rises in West Virginia and flows northward to Pittsburg), and forms the Ohio. It is navigable for small steamers for about 200 miles above Pittsburg. The Ohio lies in this State for the first fifty miles of its course. The Schu,yl:ill is a beautiful river in the eastern part of the State. It empties into the Delaware at Philadelphia, and supplies that city with fresh water. The Lehigh flows into the Delaware at Easton. Lake Erie, already described in another chapter, is the only lake lying in the State. It washes the northwest part of Pennsylvania for about o0 miles. MINERALS. “Pennsylvania stands first among the United States in the abundance of her coal and iron. Though not possessing a great variety 431

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T’HE GREAT P REPUBLIC. TH’II SCHUYLKILL ABOVE PHILADELPHIIA. of rare minerals, and none of the precious metals, she has those which have made England the wealthiest and most powerful nation on the globe, while Spain and Portugal, with their gold, silver, and diamond mines, have become poor in national wealth, and have sunk to a low degree of political influence.

Owing no doubt to her hlomely, but usefill minerals, Pennsylvania has advanced, between 1840 and 1850, in a greater ratio in population than even the Emp)ire State (New York), or that vigorous and youthful giant of the West, Ohio. The vast anthracite coal fields of Pennsylvania lie mostly between the I)elaware and Susquehanna rivers, about the headwaters of the Lehligh, Schuylkill, and Lackawana. In 1854 this region sent to market, 5,919,555 tons of coal; in 1864, the product had increased to 10,564,926.

iNearly half of this came from Schuylkill county. At Blossburg, in Tioga county, and in Clintoii county, are mines of bituminous coal, said to be equal, if not superior, to the Newcastle coal of England; while the region around Pittsburg, the commencement of the coal field of the Mississippi Valley, abounds in coal of the same kind, but little inferior in purity.

Cannel coal of fine quality is found in Beaver county. ThIe bituminous coal mined in western Pennsylvania, in 1864, was estimated at 3,000,000
tons. Petroleum abounds in 432

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PENNSYL-ANIA. r. MIOUNT PISGAII AN.D TIIE COAL I1EGIOX. the western part of the State. The best evidences of the qualntity and excellence of the iron of Pennsylvania is the fact, according to the census report of 1850, that nearly half of the })ig, cast, and wrought iron manufactured in the Union was from her forges and furnaces. Tlhis State also abounds in lime, miarb)le, slate, and stones suitable for building. Mlarl)ie is particularly abundant in Chester and AIonitgomery counties. The m1ost important copper minies in Pcennsylvania are in the same counties. Zinc is linined in the vicinity of Betlhlelem, p)lunmbago in Bucks county, and lead in Chester and Montgomery counties. A bed of this mineral, of great richness, is reported to lhave been discovered recently in Blair county.

Clirominuma occurs in Clester and Lancaster counties. Scattered over tlhe State are some of the following, minerals: titanium, )lumbago, magnetic iron ore, iron )yrites, miagnesia, talc, asbestos, barytes, zircon, tourmalin, niirl, etc. Salt springs exist on the Ionongallela, Kiskeminitas, and Beaver rivers, and in other l)arts of the State. Nearly 12,000,000 bushels of salt were manufactured here in 1860. Nitre or saltpetre has recently been discovered in an extensive dep1osit, and of great richness, 28 433 L

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. in the central part of the State. There are several medicinal springs, generally chlalybeate, the mlost noted of whichl are Bedford, in the county of the same name; York, ill Adamls county; Doubling Gap, in Cumiberland; Yellow Springs, in Chester; and Ephrata, in Lancaster countv.” * CLIMATE. The southern and eastern portions of Pennsylvania have a milder climate than the western part. In the latter, the winters are long and severe. The summers are very hot all over the State, and all parts are liable to sudden changes from heat to cold. The spring comes early in the southern counties, but is late in the others. As a whole the State is one of the healthiest in the Union. S()OIL AND) PRODUCTIONS. As a general rule the soil of the State is good. That of the limiestone regions, and along the river valleys is excellent, and there are some fine ]a,nds in the mountain valleys. Pennsylvania is largely engaged in agriculture, being one of the first States ini the Union, wiith respect to its prod(uctions. The system of farminig is enlightened and progressive, and the people are amongst the most industrious in the world. In 1870
there were 11,515,965 acres of improved land in the State, and 5,740,864
acres of unilmproved land. The remainder of the agricultural wNealthl of the State for the same year was as follows: Cash value of farms,………

S.$1,043,481,582 AMalue of farminig imp)lements atnd machinery, $35,658,196 Numiber of horses,… ‘ millch cows,. ‘ working oxen, sheep,… swinle,… Value of all live stock,. Bushels of wheat,.. “
rye,… Indian corn,. ‘ oats,.. barley,…. Irish l)otatoes, ” buckwheat,7

ToIns of hlay,…. -* Lippincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1454. 434 460,339 706,437

30,048 1,794,301 - 867,548 $115,647,075 19,672,967 3,577,641 34,702,006

36,478,585 529,562 12,889,367 2,532,1-73 2,848,219 …….

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IENiN SYLVANIA. Pounds of maple sLugar,… ” tobacco,. i)eesvwax and honey,. wAVool,…. buttter,….. cheese,.. (GTallons of milk sold,…

Valute of orchard pirodlucts,.. ” market gardein I)ro(lIcts slaughtered animals. forest )products,.. COMMiERCE. The returns of the port of Philadelphia d(lo not fairly exlil-)it the forei,gn trade of this Sta4-e, since a large portion of its commerce passes thlrough the port of iNew York. The railroads and canals of the State transport immense quantities of freight every vear, and the trade wvith the South and WTest, by the Ohio RPiver, is enornmous. The discovery of )etroleumrn has greatly inere:sed tlhe forei,gn and domestic trades of the State. The export of this article fiom Phliladclpe)liia in 1868 was 40,505,620 gallons. In the same year the petroleau trade of Pittsourg amounted to about $13,000,C00.

In 1860 the State prod(luced $21,266,906 wiorth of coal, which amount has l)eeni greatly increased sillnce tihen. In 1863, the tonnage of tlhe State was 300,741, of which 94,305 was steaim tonnage. in 181, the total imp)orts of tlhe State amounted to $12,628,348, and the exports to 810,013,097. MANUUFTACTURES. Pennsylvania is largely eigaged in manufactures, ralnking in this respect amongst the most important States in the Uniion. In 1860, there were 21,000 establishments in the State devoted to mantifacetures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing 223),250 hands, a capital of $189,000,000;* consuming raw material wvorth $14.”,300,000, an(] yielding an annual product of $285,500,000. There were 151 cotton mills, employing a capital of $8,253,640, and 5350 male and 7370 female hands, consuming raw material worth $6,732,275, payilg $2,265,912 for labor, and yielding an annual product of $11,759,000. There were 447 woollen factories, employing 6682 male and 4022 female hands and a capital of $5,642,425; consuming raw material worth $6,770,347; paying $2,239,936 for labor; and yielding an :; The largest amount so invested in any State. 435 1,5445,917 3,467,539” 824,022 6,561,72‘2 C,0,834,6,44

1,145,5209 14,411,729 $4,208,094 $1,810,0l6 $,“28,412,903 $2,570,37 0

~….

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. annual product of $12,744,373. T same vear were valued as follows: Leather,………. Pig-iro,……… Rolled ironi………

Steam engines and mnachinery,. Agricultural implements, Satwed and 1)laiied lunmber, Flour,…… Alalt anid spiritulous liquors,. Boots and slhos,……. F]urnitiure,….. Jewelry, silverware, etc.,. $12,491,631

11,424,879 1-,643,500 7,243,453 1,455,760 11,311,000 26,570,000 5,430,000

8,17S,935 2,938:503 4,132,130 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. Pennsylvania was olne of the first states in the task of providing means of rapid and direct communication l)etween her various p)oints. The first great work ever undertaken in this country was the turnpike from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, lwhich until the completion of the Erie Canial of New York, was the great hi,ghway between the East and the WTest. In 1825, the State begani an extensive system of canals. This undertaking was badly managed, lhoweever, and she did not at once derive the great advantages from tlhem she had expected. M’any of these works were injudiciously located in parts of the State where there was no need for them. The consequence was that the profits of the paying lines had to be used to defray the expenses of these unprofitable routes, and in the course of time the State was burdened with a heavy debt on their account. The railroads have taken away the greater part of their business, and have thus greatly increased the burden to the State. The railroads of Pennsylvania are iramonogst the most important in the country. Philadelphia has direct railroad communication with all the important towns of the State, with New York, Ialtiinore, and all parts of the Union. Seven or eight main lines centre in this city, and three or four in Camden, New Jersey, immediately opposite. These bring through freights and passengers from all parts of the Union to Philadelphia. In 1868, there were about 1100 miles of canal navigation in Pennsylvania, constructed at a cost of over $40,000,000. In thie same year there were 4037 miles of completed railroads in the State. The cost of construction was $210,081,000. This mnakes Pennsylvania the first State in the Union with respect to the lengtlh and cost of her railroad system, 436
manufactures for the …… I….. ……

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PENNSYLVANIA. EDUCATION. The State has always beerl noted for the excellence of its schools. One of the first efforts of the original settlers was to provide for public education, and( we find that the plan of Government drawn utip by William Penn in 1682, provided for the establishment of public schools, and their control by the Governor and Provincial Council. Tile first Constitution of the State (1.776) required the establishment of at least one such school in eachl county, and( in 1786, the State made a donation of 60,000 acres of the public lands for the support of tile public schools. In 1836, a permanent school fund was established. ThIe educational system is under the control of a State Superintendent of Public Instruction, lwho is appointed by the Governor.

The State is divided into 2002 school districts, each of which is immediately controlled by six school directors, two of them being elected each year. They hold office for tlhree years. They manage all the business atflirs of the schools, appoint the teachers, select the text-books, and make an annual report to the county superintendent. This oflicer is required to be an experienced teacher, and is elected for three years by the school directors of the county. It is his duty to miake a thorough inspection of the schools in his county, to satisfy himself of the coinpetency of the teachers and the proficiency of the pupils, and to make an annuiial rel)oi-t of his observations to the State Superintendent. The Public Schools of the city of Philadelphia are distinct from those of the State, and are supported by the municipal authorities. Inclutding these, there were 14,212 public schools in Pennsylvania in 1870. The number of teachers was 17,612, of pupils, 828,981. The whole amount expended during the year for public instruction was $7,771,761.20. In Philadelphia, in the year 1867, there were 374 schools, with a force of 1314 teachers. The total number of pupils was 129,226, the average attendance, 66,333. There are five normal schools; at Millersville, Mansfield, Edinboro, and IKutztown. The city of Philadelphia has a fine normal school of its own.

The law provides for the establishment of twelve such schools in the State, whenever they may become necessary. The present number of pupils is 2675. There are 13 colleges in Pennsylvania. One of these, the College of Agriculture, is a State institution. It is in vigorous operation, and is meeting with great success. The AMed(lical School of the University 437

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rTHE GIREAT REPUBLIC. of Pennsylvania, and the Jefferson Medical College, the former founded in 1765, and the latter in 1824, are amongst tlhe best schools of their kind in the world. Besides these are 6 other Medical Colleges. There are 7 Theological Seminaries, 1 Lawv School, and 9

Colleges of Literature and Science in the State. The University of Pennsylvania and Girard College at Philadelphia; Dickinson College at Carlisle; Washlingtonj College at Washington; the Lewvisburg University at Lewvisburg; Frankllin and Marshal College at Lancaster; and the PeninsNylvania College at Gettysburg, are the principal institutions in the Strte. In 1870, there were 601 academies, seminaries, anild private schools in the State, with 848 teachers, and 24,81.5 pupils. In 1860, there were 1416 liblaries in Pennsylvaniia, containing 1,344,924 volumes.

Of t,hese, 529, with 761,299 voltumes were public. In the same year, the namber of newspapers and periodicals published in the State was as follows: daily 29, semiweekly 3, triweekly 1, weekly 297, nmonthly 28, quarterly 6, annutal 3,-total 367. Of these 277 were political, 43
religious, 25 literary, and 22 miiscellaneous. PUBLIC INSTITU TIO,TS. The public institutions of this State have long been noted for their extent and excellence. The Pen,tsyl,raniia ITosfpit&it foi’ the Iiisai-e, at Philadelphia, tlhe State Lit,(itic TIospiit(l, at Harrisbur(, and the TVestera Pensylvania Hosp)it(ul, near Pittsburg, are among the best establishments of their kind in the world. Besides these there are three incorporated hospitals, and several private establishments. T’he Pentisylania Intitctio; for the Deaf at,;d )u’ait, established in 1820, and the I3~stitUtioa, for the B1ti d, estabtlished in 1833, both at Philadelphia, are open to pupils from New Jersey and Delaware. Those States, consequently, contribute to the support-of these establishments.

The T2iainiiy Schoolfoi’ Feeble-midted Chilcdren is at Media. It is supported in part by the State. There are two Hotses of Refuge. One, for Western Pennsylvania and located at Pittsburg, is maintained entirely, and the other, at Philadelphia, in part, by the State, which also maintains 39
schools and homes for the support and instruction of soldiers’ orphans.

There are two great Penitentiaries in Pennsylvania-one at Philadelphia, and the other at Alleghaiiy City. The Philadelphia peni 438

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PENNSYLVANIA. tentiary is one of the most complete establishments of its kind in the country. Both prisons are conducted oni the silent system, and the prisoners are kept separate fiom each other. The discipline is miild but firm, and every effbrt is made to refi)rm as well as punish the prisoner. Ill 1866 there were 569 convicts in the Philadelphia prison, and 418 in the Alleghany prison. RELIGIOUS DEiNOMllINTATIONS. Iin 1860, the value of chulrch prop)erty ill Pennsylvania wIas $22,581,479. The number of chlur(ches was 5337. FINANCES. The total debt of the State in December, 1870, was $31,111,661.90. The funded debt was $.‘30,997,700.‘33, and the unfunded debt $113,964.57. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending November 30, 1870, amounted to $7,737,46;.73, and the expenditures to v~6,434,522.91. A large part of the debt was discharged in the same vear. In September, 1868, there were 197 National Banks in operation in the State, with a capital of $50,247,390. GOVERNMENT. Every male freeman, twentyone years old, who has paid a State or County tax, within two years, (except in cases of male freemen between 21 and 22
years, who are not required to pay tax as a condition to this right,) and has resided in the State for one year, and in his election district ten days, is entitled to vote at the elections. The State Governmaent is conducted by a Governor, Auditor-General, and Surveyor-General, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 33 members, elected for 3 years, one-third retiring annually), and a House of Representatives (of 100
members, elected annually), all chosen by the people. There are, also, a State Treasurer, elected annually by the Legislature, and a Secretary of State, AttorneyGeneral, and Adjutant-General, and several other executive oflicers, appointed by the Governor. The Suttieme Court of Pennsylvania consists of a Chief Justice and four Associate Judges, elected by the people for fifteen years. The Judge lwho has the shortest term to serve, is Chief Justice. This is the High Court of Errors and A)peals. 439

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. The District Courts are two in number, and are established at Philadelptlia (for the City and County of Philadelphlia) and at Pittsbulrg (for the County of Alle,ghany). Their jurisdiction extends over all civil suits in which the claim exceeds $1000, and in certain other cases prescril)ed by law. They are the principal commercial courts for tlle cities in Avhich they are held. T/he Couits of Com enoit Pleas are eachl presided over by one Judge, elected for ten years, and one or more Associate Judges, elected for five years. Thlere is a court in every county. They are also Judges of O-er a(nd Termiiner and general jail delivery in their respective counties. Besidles these, there are police courts in tlhe cities. For purposes of government, Pennsylvania is divided into 65 colIties. HIarrisburg is the capital of the State. HISTORPY. In 1627, a colony of Swedes and Finns, well provided with means fromn Europe, settled along tlhe lower part of the western shore of the Delaware, and in a short time spread their settlements to the mouth of the Schuylkill River. In 1655 they were compelled by the Dutchl to suibmit to tlhe authorities of Newv Amnsterdamn, and in 1664 passed under the rule of the ELg,lish. In 1681, Charles II. granted the territory west of the Delaware to Willitam Penn, in payment of a debt due by the Britishl Government to Penn’s grandlfathler. Penn colonized his grant at once withi memibers of his own faiith (Friends or Quakers), and in 1682 foun(led tlhe City of Philadelphia. I-is grant included the present State of Delaware, whichl was then known as the lower counties.” In 1699, Pennsylvania granted these counties a separate Assembly, but they continued subject to the authorlity of her Governor until 1776, when, upon the breaking out of the Revolution, they formed an independent establishment. Penn’s charter faile(d to define with exactness the boundaries of his grant, and this led to considerable unpleasantness wvith the neighlboring provinces, which was not settled until 1767, when the surveys of Mason and( Dixon definlitely established the boundaries of the province. The first years of the colony were passed in peace with the Indians, whose friendship was won and retained( by the wise and just policy pursued towards them. Upon the outbreak of the war of the Revolution, however, they waged upon the colonists a cruel and exterminating warfare, the character of whichi is well shown by the terrible massacre at Wyoming. 440

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PENNSYLVANIA. DEEP CUT, PENNSYLVANIA IRAILRIOAD. The lower counties of the State were settledT by thie Swedes originally, and after themi by the Friends or Quakers. These thrifty people soon brotughit the colony to a flourishing condition, and made it, perhaps, the most successful of all.

They were joined in 1750 by a large numrber of no less thrifty Germans, who settled in the counties around and wvest of Philadelphia, in the southern part of the State, to which thley gave the peculiar characteristics which distinguish them to-day. The colonists contributed their full share to the wars with France, and gave a hlearty support to the measuires for securin American independence. Philadelphia was at this time the largest and most important city in America, and was the place at which the Continental Co(ngresses first met. It continued to be the seat of Government until the occupation of the city by the British in 1777, compelled Congress to withdraw to York. The battles of BrandywNine and Germantown were foughlt in this State about the same time. The massacres of WVyoming and Paoli, in the same year, and(l the nmemorable winter at the Valley Forge, are thrilling incidents in the revolutionary history of Pennsylvania. 441

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‘THE GREAT REPIUBLIC. Trlhe ConventionI which adopted the Constitution of the United States held its sessions in the city of Philadelphia, which had already been made memorable by the adoption of the Declaration of Independence. The Whiskey Insurrection, to which we have already alluded, occurred during Washington’s administration. The State bore its share of the bur(lens of the war of 1812, and has since always maintained its position as one of the wealthiest, most progressive, and influential members of thle Union. During the late Rebellion, it contributed (exclusive of militia) a force of 362,284 men to the army and navy of the United States. The southern counties suffered very miuch froiil thie incursions of the Confederates. InI one of these raids the town of Chamlbersburg was burned. In June, 1863, the State was invaded by the Confederate army under General Lee. This force was defeated at Gettysburg, in Adamis county, on the 3(1 of Julv, in one of the most memorable and decisive battles of the war. Ini consequence of this defeat, General Lee retreated into’Maryland, and recrossed the Potomac. CITIES AND TOWN,S.

Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns are, Phliladelphia, Pittsburg,, Alleghlany City, Scranton, Reading, Lancaster, Erie, Easton, iNorristown, Pottsville, York, Allentown, Danvi]lle, Carlisle, W7illiamsport, Chambersburg, WAest Chester, Oil City, Wilkesbarre, Johnstown, andl Altoona. IHARPRISBURG, The capital, and sixthl city of the State, is situated in Dauphin county, on the east bank of the Susquehanna Rtiver, 106 mniles west by north of Philadelphia, and 110 miles north of Washington. Latitude 40~ 1(‘ N.; longitude 76~ 50’ W. The city is beautilly located, an(l its elevated points command fine views of river and mountain scenery. It lies in the midst of a fertile and healthy country, and is regularly laid off. The business of the place is extensive, owing to the fact that it is one of the principal railroad centres of the State, and has canal transportation to the tidewaters of Pennsylvania and Maryland. Its proximity to the great coal and ironi regions of the State also adds to its importance. It is already engaged in manufaicturing enterprises to a considerable extent. Several extensive iron furnaces, rolling mil]ls, a cotton fiactory, a manlufactory of railway cars, and other works are 442

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PENNSYLV. NIA. SUESQEIl[. lI -NX. A1l,OVE IIARRISBUI(lG. carried on. The city-is rapidly growin(g in size and population, and promiises to be a large and important inland city. The streets are wide and well paved, an(-l the city is substantially built. InI its genieral appearance it reseimbles Philadelphia, thle buildings being generally of redl brick trimmed wvith white marble. Front street, a handsome avenue, overlooks the Susquehanna, and contains many of thle handsoniest residences in the city.

The Public Buildings are few ill number. The SAtate House is ail imposing edifice, and occupies a picturesque and comlnanding position upon a natural eminence, a little northl of the centre of the city; and fromn its (dome a fine view may be ob-)tained of the broad and tortuous river, its beautifjul islands, its bridges, and the adjacent ranges of the 1Cittatinny Alountains. The Land QOgice, a brick l)uildinig, stands onil the righlt of tlhe State House; and the State DeparItnment, also of brick, on the left. To the southl of the Land Office, is the State A)-se)al. The C.t’i’t Hotousc, on Miarket street, is a stately structure, built of brick and surmounted by a dome. The State House contains a large aind valua bl e lil)rarv. There are 9 public schools in the city, and 19 churches. There are 443

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. also an efficient police force, and a steamn fire department. Thle city is lighted with gas, an(d supplied with pure water fromi the river. It is governed by a Mayor and Council, elected by the people. In 1870, the population was 23,109. The first white settlement made at Harrisburg was in 1719, by an Englishman namued Jolhn Harris. He purchased from thle proprietaries of Penlnsylvania a grant of 300 acres of land near his residence, and bought of other grantees 500 acres adjoining.

He carried onl a considerable trade vith i the neigbl)oring Indians. In 1753, the Penns grante(d to his son, John Harris, jr., the right to establish a ferry across the Susquehanna at this point, and the settlement became knowvn as Harris’ Ferry. In 1784, the town was laid out. It was made the seat of justice of the new county formed from Lancaster and called Dautphin, in hlonor of the heir to the Crown of France. The town itself was called Louisburg, in hionor of Louis XVI. In 1791, it was incorporated as a town, and its name chlanged to Harrisburg. In 1812, it became the capital of the State; and in 1860, it was incorporated as a city, and divided into six wards. PHIIILADELPI-IIA, In the county of Philadelphia, the largest and most important city of the State, and the seco nd city of the United States, lies between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, 5 miles fromi their junction an(-] nearly 100 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, following the course of the Delaw a r e River and Bay. It i s 1 36 miles northeast of Washington City, and 87 nmiles southwest of New York. The city proper is located in a perfectly level plain; but th e recent additions, especially those onl the northwest, are built on a fine rolling country, which abounds in picturesque views wwlich offer a striking contrast to the uniform flatness of the old city. As originally laid out in 1701, thle city was bounded by the Delaware and Sehuylkill rivers, and by Vine and Cedar streets. In 1854, the adjoining districts of Sprilng Gardlei, Penn, Northern Liberties, I1ensington, and Richmond on the north, West Philadelphlia on the west, and Southwark, Moyamensing and Passyunk on the southl, were consolidated with the city in one miunicipal government. These constitute, with old Philadelphia, tlhe city proper; but by a recent Act of the Legislature, the limits of the city of Philadelphia have been made coextensive withl those of the county, which include an area of 120 square miles. The entire length of’ the city, from north to southl, is 20 miles; and its greatest breadth, froinom 444

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-I iIIII ii

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I

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…… PEN.N SYL,VA NiA. VIEW OF PHIIILADELI’IIIA FROM FAIRlMOUNT PARK.

east to west, 8 miles. The suburbs are very beautiful, and are thickly built up with handsome country seats, villas, cottages, etc. Thev abound in exquisite scenery, especially in the vicinity of the Wissahickon. The most densely settled portion of the city is the southern part, b)etween the two rivers, where the peninsula is only about 2 miles in width. From this point it widens to the northward. Unlike New York, the population is not crowded into a few houses. The dwellings contain one family as a rule, and rarely more than two. They are small as a general thing,, large mansions being the exception, save in the richer portions of the city. The densely iinhabited portion covers an area of about 9 square miles, extending for about 5 mriles-along the Delaware, and 2 miles along the Schuylkill. The largest part of the business of the city is transacted between Vine andc Spruce streets, east of 12th street. The wealthiest private section, that inhabited by the ” fashion,” is southi of Walnut, and west of 7th street, Walnut being considered the most desirable street in the city. Business is making considerable inroads upon this section.

IHere are to be found somne of the most beautifill and elegant residences in the Union. Archl street, north of Market, and Broad street towards its northern end, are among the lhandsomnest and most desirable thoroughfares.

Market street, which is entirely devoted to business, extends 445

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‘TlHE GREAT ItLEPUBLIC. TIHE VWISSAIIICKON AT CIIESTNUT IIILLo throug,hout the city from east to west beginning at the Delaware and(l crossing the Sehuylkill. It is 100 beet in width, and is lined withlarge warehouses, usually of brick. Broad street, 113 feet wide, extends from the northern to the southern limit of the city. Its northern )ortion is lined with elegant residences. The central and southern portions are devoted to business, and contain some of the hlandsomest buildings in the place.

Philadelphia is laid out with great regularity. The original plani of Penn contemplated a city withi 10I streets running from river to 446

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PENNSYLVANIA. 4. PIIILADELPtII1A SMALL IIOMES. river, Xand cro.sse(t by 25
other streets at riglt anil(es to them-. Broad 1ad Ater et streets were to divide this city into ftinr nearly equal por tion eo:siderable area being reserved at the intersection of those streets fr iutir large squlires.

Tlhese constituted the famous 1eiinn Sqart’i, lich has )eeIl icently strip)ped of its liagnificelnt trees and shin)l1:)h1rr to mi-ake way 10r the lnev mnunicipal )lildings which are to occupI) its four divisions. The streets are u1uay from) 50 to 6() feet in ith itlh a fe\w of greater brealdthl. Tllose ulling firom north to southl are nunlblieredt, iiningo’

at the I)elaiware or eastern sidelo those extendin fron east to west are named. In the old *ectioiis of tlhe city, the sewerage is (lefective, in consequence of the flatness of the. lnd, hbut the liioher portions lhave notliing to complain of in this respect. Considering its size and importance, PIhiladelp)hia is remarlabl]y deficient in goo(d )avemnents.

The streets are generally paved wAithl cobble stonies, but Belgian anld wooden paveiments are now )begi nningi to make their applearance. The general aspect of the city is bri(lht and pleasing, mingled with a certaini prininess, ihowever, due to its Quaker origin. Except in th)ose portions along tlhe water, it is very clean, and is healthy. larllket street divides it into two 441

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TIlE GREAT REPUB:LIC. TItE LEDGEIt 13B UILDI NG. portions, called north and south. The lhouses are numbered according to the streets between which they are located, 100 to a block. Thus 740 would be located between 7th and 8th streets. This system renders it comtparatively easy to find a building in any part of the city. That portioil of the city lying east of tlhe Schluylkill is called Phlilad(lelphia, and all wvest of that river \Vest Philadelpllia. As a rule the city is built of brick, but of late years many edifices of brown and free stone, iron and marble, have b)een ere(ted(l. Iarklet street is tile principal busilness thoroughfare, and is line(d wvithl immense stores, generally devoted to the wholesale trade.

Cliestnlut street corresponds to Broadway in New York, and is the ha(ndsomest l)usiness street. It is Iquite narrow, but contains the lmost elegant )buildiings in the city, and is one of thle lhandisomest and tmost,attractive streets in tlhe Union. It contains thle 1)riniipail h)otels; Idlepelndlence Ilall; the Custom House; and( the Post-Office.

Third street is thle great money centre, and is occupied for a considerab)le distance witli the offices of balnkers an(l broklers, many of whiich are han(dlsone l)buildigs. ,Now that Penn Sqiuare has been (lestroyed, there are 7 pul)lic squares in the city. These are II(del)enden(e, AYashingtonl, Rittelnhouse, Logan, Franklin, Jefferson, and Norris Squares. They cover eachI from 6 to 8 acres, are enclosed with tastefiul iron railinigs, and are ornamented withl magnificent trees, sh rul)bery, fountains, etc. They are surrounded with large and ele,gant residences. 448

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PENN SYLVANIA. The principal pleasure ground is Fairmount Park, in the northwest portion of the citv. This mag,nificent pleasure groundt lies on both sides of the Sclhu lkill RIiver, from the Fairmount water-works to the mouth of the Wissahickon, and along both banks of the latter stream to Chestnut Hill, a distance of 71 miles along the Schuylkill and 6 miles along the Wissahickon, making in all, a distance of 131, miles. The entire park comprises nearly 3000 acres, making it the most extensive pleasure ground in the world. Its great length enables it to include the most beautiful p9rtions of the Schuylkill and the far-famed 29 449

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Tll’IIl E ( I IEJA’I I’ 1t;‘l [,. TIIE VISSAIIICKON. AWissahickon, andl(
it abotunds ill views of landscape an(d river scenery unsurpasse(d in any portion of the world. It is rich in forest trees, oni whichl the white ian’s hand has never beein laid. It is still in its infancy as a park, the workl of imp)rovemennt h-aving becn scarcely begun: butt what has been accomp)lished gives )ronlise of a judicious and tasteful assistance of nature. In its p)ri’fieval state, this park 450

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1P ENN _. i AN t A. t THIE UNION LEAGUE. BROAD STREET. constituted one of the loveliest regi6ns ill America. When art and wealth have done their part, it will be indeed worthy of the pride of the people of Philadelphia.

The Park contains the Fairmount water-works, and a number of interesting and historical localities. Small steamers ply on the Schuylkill from Fairmount water-works to the Falls, and carriages supplied by the Commissioners convey visitors to the principal points at a moderate rate of fares. From the high grounds in the northern portion a fine view of the city and the surrounding country is obtained. The public buildings are numerous and handsome. Giirard College, in the northern portion of the city, is the finest specimen of Grecian architecture in the United States.

It is built of white marble, and is entirely fire-proof. There are two additional lbuildings on each side of the main building, all of which are of marble. The U. S. CUitston, House, on Chestnut street, also of white marble, is a magnificent structure in the Doric style. It is built on a raised platform, and both fronts are ornamented with noble colonnades of fluted Doric columns. The U.S. Siit, on Chestnut street, extends back to Olive street, 220 feet. It is built of granite, and is the principal establishment of the Federal Government for the coining of money. The il erchants’ ExchctIge, at the intersection of Walnut, Thlird(l, and Dock streets, is a handsome building of white narl)le. The A’t,(te Io?utse, or as it is 451 !0

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‘THEl GREAi\T REiUBLIC. -E W IAS0~XI TE3I LE: ON BROAI) S’FllI~‘T. better known, I’ -tepelc(etce HUall, is a pl)aits edifice of brick, remnarkable only for its venerable appearance and its interesting history. It was in this building that the early sessions of the Continental Congress were held, and here was adopted the famouts Declaratioii of Independence, on the 4th of July, 1776. The L’ton i ct -LCe I-ouse on Broad street, is a handsome edifice of brick, used as a club house by the Union League of Philadelphia. The Jlasonic Ternpl)e, nowv in course of construction, on Broad street between Market and( Archl, wrill be one of the most mnagnificent structures in the city. Many of the chlurches are elegant and imposing. The theatres are about 6 in number, and besides these there are a number of inferior places of amusement. The Acaem)ty of Yttsic on Broad street, is one of the largest and finest halls in the country; but the other theatres, tlougt,h hlandcsome, are not equal to those of the other large cities of America. The hotels are large, elegant, and well kept. The principal are the Continental, the La Pierre, the Girard, the Merchants’, the Amterican, and Colonnade Hotel. The Continental is a splendid building, and in its internal arrangements is equal to any house of the kind in the Union. The city is well supplied with provisions by means of its excellent markets, of vwhich there are 24. Some of these are handsome structures of brick and iron; others are less pretentious; but the display of edibles of all kinds to be seen in them is perhaps the finest in the 452 Ii1 I

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PENNSYLV.A NIA. world. The great market garden regions of the Middle States lie so close to Philadelphia, that but a few hours intervene between the gathering of the articles and their delivery to the purchaser in the market. The Educational, Literary, and Scientific InstitutionIs are numerous and of a very high order. The Public Schools have long been noted for their excellence. They are distinct from the State Schools of this kind, and are conducted by the city. There are about 375 free schools within the corporate limits, including two high schools. The average attendance of pupils is about 67,d000. There are numei erous….,. I!?

priv ate school s and academiies?, which are well attended. Phiiladelphia has always been f famous for the care bestowed by its people upon the educa-l o ti on of t he yoiung, ansd oo doubt owes a large shaip e of its prosperity to thais care. The Uitiversi~y of j]s- } vania, 9th street, be twoeen Chesttnut and Market, erabraces four departments, viz.! the Academical, the Collegiate, the Medical, and the Law. It ranks among the first institutious of its kind in America, and its Medical College is -.

the oldest in the Union. The Jefferson ]fedical College is _ also a famous and flourishing institution. The Female ivedical College is devoted to the object indicated by its name. The others are an Eclectic and _hlomoeopathic Ymedical College, a College of Phaaimacy for the education of druggists and chemists, a College of Dental tSrgery/, a College of Physicians, which is one of the principal sources of the American Pharmacopoeia, and a Polytechnic College, organized on the plans of the Industrial Colleges of France and Germany. The TVagnei Free Institute, the gift of Professor Wagner, is a fine institution. Girard College, in the northwest portion of the city, about two miles from the ,itale Hfouse, was founded by Stephen Girard, a native of Prance and 453

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‘I’lE I (IE’T IEUlI… NEW ACADE.[Y OF NATIURAL SCIENCES. a nmerchant of Phliladelplia, hllo died in 1831l. Hie bequeathed $2,000,000 for this purpose. The butiildings wvere colp)leted in 1847, and the institution was opened January 1, 1848. It is devoted to the ” gratuitous instruction and support of destitute orplhans.” The buildi1 s,3 6 in number, are of white larle. Tle A1,lei-iecat P/iioso)Aijgl $[0CiC(} has a valuable library alnd collection of minerals, fossils, ani( ancient relics. The Fali, I)l.stittte is a flourishing society comp)osed of mInutfacturers, artists, mechanics, and persons friendly to the mechanic arts. It possesses a library of over SO8000 volumes, and holds an annual exhlil)ition in October. The AcUJ.de))y of 5etieurui S%ie)ces is one of the best institutions of its klind in thlle Unioa. It )ossesses tL library of 26,000 volunies, and a remarkably fine collection of sp)ecimens, embracing over 200,000 subl)jects. The Ai.toir l Society of ])ls’lva(rnicL was founded for the purpose of diffusing a lknowNledge of local history, especially in relationi to the State of Pennsylvania. It has published a number of valuable wvorkls on this sul)ject. It p)ossesses a library of 18,000 volumes, and a valuable collection of’contemiporary documents and relics. The Pthilcdelihia Libi/(try was founded in 1731 through the influence of Benjamiin Franklin. It numbers about 90,000 volumes, and is free to all wh-o wishl to use it. T’he -JIereantile ibr-tWy is supported by the subscriptions of its members. It contains over 40,000 volumes. The Athancruen Libr)(A(y,u:ll)ers about 25,000 volumes. Connected 4.54

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PiENNSYLVAN.NIA,. with it are a news and reading room and a chess room.

The A~1)rentices’ Library contains 22,000 volumes; the Friends’ Library 7000 volumes; and the Law Association Library 7500 volumes. The Peinsylvania Academy of I-ine Arts possesses a valuable permanent collection of paintings, and holds an annual exhibition of new works. The Artists’ Fuqnd Society, the NU,mism,at,ic Society of Phiia,delphia, and the School qf Design for Wooien, are the other art societies. The Benevolent and Charitable Institutions number more than 100. We can mention but a few of the most prominent. In respect to her institutions of this kind, P hilad elp hia is second to f n o city i n the land. Thebidg s 4)e ensyl vania Naospival is a t es ‘Y~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~: noble institution, founded. in 1751. It possesses an. anatomical museuam, and a t library of Pm ore than 0,000 volumes. The CountyAlans -fouse is an immense strutc-ture, situated in the midst of large grounds in We st Philadelphia. Co nnected with it is a hospital with 600 beds. The Pennsylvania Insane Asylum is in West Philadelphia. It is ~ one of the best institutions ON TIIE WISSAIIICKON DRIVE. of its kind in existence.

Its grounds cover an area of 114 acres. The main building is 430 feet long. The United States Naval Hospital, on the east bank of the Schuylkill, below South street, is for the use of invalid officers and seamen of the U. S. Navy. The ])ennsylvania Institute for the Deaf and Dutmb, the Pennsylvania Institution for the Blind, the Preston Retreat, the House of Refuge, the House of Correction, and Wills Hospital are noble charities. The Prisons are well conducted. The Eastern State Penitentiary occupies an area of 11 acres, enclosed by a stone wall, 30 fbet high. It is built of stone, and consists of an octagonal building in the centre, from which radiate wings, with rows of cells on each side, and a 455

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SCIIUYLKILL RIIVER, FRO-I TIlE FALLS. passag,e way extendingr, the entire leng,tli of each wing. It is a model institution in every respect. The P-hitadelphia CouKty PPrison is a massive builcding, of stone. It is used for the purposes of a penitentiary as well as a county jail and wvork-hlouse. There are about 375 churches ill the city. As a rule they are lhandCsolmle and substantially built. The mieeting-houlses of thtle Friends arc generally plain brick structures, remarkable for their absence of display. They are 14 in number. The Cemeteries are, Laurel ijill, Glenwood, JJ1ioutizt Thernjon, onuLmeit, TVoodclan-s, Ro)ialdsort’s, Odd Fellows’, and Jlot44it JIoriah. They are noted for their beauty. Laurel Itill is considered by many persons the most beautiful cemetery in the Union. It is located on the banks of the Schuylkill, in a lovely country, and contains many handsome tombs.

Philadelphia is lighlted with gas of an excellent quality, whichi is supplied at a reasonable rate to the citizens. The gas works are coInducted by the city, and the consumers are secured the best quality of gas that can be made, and are protected firom the extortions of private companies. The total length of street mains is about 500 miles. 456

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PENNS IL\ T AN I1. C-IIEST-NT’T ST ~E. ET” BiII,,.( i:.

(,;Vi!‘ti/i;,:CtIUFrIlLL, PAIILAI)EL,PIiIA. The city is st])Ilied wvvitih water froti th( Selhuylkill i~iver. In 1812 the 1oairmount Yvater lTik wer beg,n, and in 1827 vwater wNas introduced inito t’he city. Sinc,,i then the city has Constru(‘ted aditional reservoirs. The Faiirmouint Wvater Worl-s, on the Schuiiylkil River, in tlie northwest part of the city, are very interesting aind constitute on-e of the chief attr actions to vis tors. The avcrag-e amrount used per (diemi exceeds 25,000,000 galloris.

Phiiladelphia is connected with the Jersey shlore on thie opposite side of the Delaware by six lines of steami fCrriis. Numerotis steamers ply on the Delaware between Philadelphia and the towns on that river. The street railway lines are 22 in numnber. They constiute the best system of street transportation in the Union. By the use of transfer tickets almost any point within tlhe city limiits cani be reached at a uniform fare of seven cents. There are 9 bridges in and near Philadelphia. Some of these are used exclusively by the railway lines entering the city. The bridge over the Schuylkill at Chestnut street is a beautiful structure of iron, 390
feet long, 42 feet wide, and 40 feet above high water. It cost $500,000.

The city is provided with a strong and( (fficient police force, a fire

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TrHE GREAT REPUBLIC. alarm telegraph, and a steam fire department, with more than 30 steam engines. It is divided into 24 wards, and is governed by a Mayor and Council elected by the people. There are 10 daily, and 40
weekly newspapers, and about 50 periodicals, weekly and( monthlly, published in Philadelphia. A large share of the book publishing trade of the Union is carried on here. Philadelphia is largely engaged in manufactures. The district of Malayunk is almost whlolly engaged in these enterprises, devoting itself principally to cotton and woollen goods, and carpets. Sugar refilling is carried on extensively in the city. Large quantities of slaoes, chemicals, imediciines, paints, umbrellas, parasols, carts, wheel barrows, household furni ture, jewelry, iron manu factures of every descrip tion, steam engines, water and gas pipes, mi litary - goods, flour, soap, ale and PUBLIC }()I, Nbeer, glass, clotlhing, can dies, hosiery, etc., etc., are Philadelphia~ manufactured annually.-f. The total capital inve sted in manufactures in Phila delphia i s estimated at iHearly $100,000,000. Ship : building is also c arried on to a limited extent. ‘_ The commerce of Phi PtUBLIC F,OU \NTAIN. ladelphia is large, and is growing rapidly. Its foreign trade passes principally throug h t he por t of New York. Efforts are now being made to establish direct communication between Philadelphia and Liverpool. In 1865, there were 541
arrivals from foreign ports. TIe cit y car ries o n an immense coasti ng t rade, and it s harbor is usually crowded with vessels. In 1865, there were 31,705 arrivals from American ports. The total value of exports from the port of Philadelphia in 1865 was, $11,278,603. The imports in the same year amounted to $7,164,744. The city also conducts a large trade with all parts of the country, and especially with the West, by means of its railroads. Immense quantities of coal and petroleum ann~ually pass through Philadelp)hia, thus adding to its wealth. 4-8

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PEN NSYLA-ANIA. Philadelphia is at present the fourth city ill the Union in commercial importance, but it is making rapid progress towards a higher position. The U, S. ATavy Yard is located on the Delaware River in the southwestern part of the city. It covers an area of 12 acres, and contains 2 large ship-houses, and all the necessary works. Some of the best vessels in the Navy have been constructed here. It also contains a sectional floating dock. In 1870, the population of Philadelphia was 674,022. In 1684, it had 2500 inhabitants, in 1778, 42,520; in 1820 (up to which time it was the largest city in the IUnion), 167,325; and in 1860, 565,529. The city of Philadelphia was founded by William Penn immnediately upon taking possession of the grant of a province by Charles II. He sent out a body of colonists in August 1681, and in 1682, came over himself, and superintended the surveys of the new city. During the latter year, a larg,e number of colonists arrived, the majority of whom were Friends or Quakers, and persons of respectability and wealth. Penn’s deliberate intention was to found a large city, and the general plan of the present city differs very slightly from his original design. The new settlement was named by him Philadelphia, partly from the city of that name in Asia Minor, but principally because of the significance of the term. Penn’s first care was to make an equitable treaty with the Indlians, who, on their part, carefully abstained from molesting the new city, whlichl prospered il a malrked ldeg,ree, and became the largest and most important place on the continent, which preeminence it held until about 30 years after the opening of tihe Revolution. Philadelphia bore its full share in the events of the early wars of the country with the French and Indians, though it was itself never assailed. “In 1741, the city was divided into 10 wards. In December 1719, a printing press was set utip, and Andrew Bradford began to publish the AmericanT Wecekly ifercury, which was continued until 1746. In 1728, the Gazette was begun, which fell to Franklin to conduct in ] 729. In the latter year, the building of a State House was author ized, the site was selected in 1730, and the building begun in 1732, and completed in 1735. The bell tower was not erected till 1750; and on June 7th, 1753, the new’great bell,’ cast here, weighing 2080
pounds, with the motto,‘Proclaim liberty,’ etc., was raised to its place; this is the bell celebrated in connection with the Declaration of Independence, and now in Independence Hall. The first Colonial Congress met in Philadelphia at Carpenters’ Hall, a building still in 45Y

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THE GREAT IREPUBLIC. INDEPENDENCE ItALL, PHILADELPIIIA. use as a hall, on September 4, 1774. Congress held its sessions at the State House in 1776, and here adopted and signed the Declaration of Independence. The British forces occupied the city from September, 1777, to June, 1778. A census was then taken by General Cornwallis, and there were found to be 21,767
inhabitants and 5470 houses, but the people were then much scattered.

Congress resumed its 460

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P ENNSYLVAN IA. sessions at Philadelphia after the British left it, and continued to make this the national capital until the removal to Washington City in 1800. The battle of Germantown, October 4, 1777, was fought within tihe present chartered limits of the city, 7 miles northwest of the centre of the old city proper. The State Legislature removed its sessions to HIarrisburg in 1800, simultaneously with the removal of the seat of the General Government to Washington. The foreign commerce and general trade of Philadelphia increased rapidly after the close of the Revolution. At the war of 1812 this commerce almost wholly ceased; in 1816, business and speculation revived, hut the results were not fortunate, and direct external trade never recovered its former importanice. Previous to 1839, the banking capital of Philadelphia was larg,e, and for most of the period previous to 1836, it was thle monetary centre of the country. The First Bank of the United States, established by Act of Congress, in 1791, with a capital of $10,000,000, was located here; and the Second Bank of the United States was established here in 1816, with a capital of $35,000,000. The subsequent failure of the bank under its State charter in 1839, and the loss of its large capital, greatly weakened the financial strength of the city, and the monetary centre was permanently transferred to New York. The revulsion of 1837, and the subsequent financial depression, fell heavily on the city and State, the recovery from them not being apparent until 1844. In 1793, the yellow fever made terrible ravages, nearly decimating the population, and driving numbers into the country; and again in 1798, it was epidemic. In 1832, the Asiatic cholera was very destructive, the victims numbering 770. More recently, there have been milder forms of epidemic cholera and yellow fever, but as a whlole the city has from its foundation been conspicuously healthy:” The separate municipalities proved for many years the source of considerable trouble, and in 1854, they were all consolidated into one city, under the general name of Philadelphia. By the same enactment, the corporate limits of the city were made to embrace the entire county.

PITrTSBURG, The second city in the State, is situated in Alleghany county, at the junction of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, which here form the Ohio River. It is 357 miles west of Philadelphia, and 223 northwest of Washington city. The city is located on the triangular plain enclosed by the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers, and by Grant’s Hill 461

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THE G(REAT REPUBLIC. and the other eminences at the eastern side of the plain. “The general outline and many other features of this city bear a striking resemblance to the lower part of New York. Along the Monongahela the streets were laid out at right angles to each other, and extend either parallel or perpendicular to the river. The same plan was also adopted on the Alle ghany side, by which arrangement the cross streets meet obliquely a few squares south of the latter stream. The space included within these limits was found insufficient to meet the requirements of the rapidly increasing population, which soon extended itself to the opposite shlores.

Here have sprung up several large and flourishing towns, the most important of which are Alleghany City and Manchester, situated directly opposite the junction of the Alleghany River with the Ohio, and Birminlgham, on the left bank of the Monongahela. In commer cial and social interests, all these are identical with the city proper, and we should do Pittsburg injustice, not to consider them as a part of the same community.” The situation of Pittsbulrg is exceedingly beautiful. The city lies in a plain surrounded by hills from 400 to 500 feet in height. At the base of these flow the three rivers we have named. The hills are very rich in coal, iron, and limestone. The soil is fertile to the very summit of the hills, which are covered with picturesque forests, orchards, and gardens, thus giving an additional beauty to the landscape. An English traveller writes of the scenery as follows: “As regards scenery it is beautifullly situated, being at the foot of the Alleghany Mountains, and at the junction of the two rivers Monongahela and Alleghlany. Here, at the town, they come together, and form the River Ohio. Nothing can be more picturesque than the site, for the spurs of the mountains come down close round the town, and the rivers are broad and swift, and can be seen for miles from heights which may be reached in a short walk. Even the filth and wondrous blackness of the place are picturesque when looked down upon from above. The tops of the churches are visible, and some of the larger buildings may be partially traced through the thick, brown, settled smoke.

But the city itself is buried in a dense cloud. The atmosphere was especially heavy when I was there, and the effect was probably increased by the general darkness of the weather. The Monongahela is crossed by a fine bridge, and on the other side the ground rises at once, almost with the rapidity of a precipice; so that a commanding view is obtained down upon the town and the two rivers and the different bridges, from a height immediately above them. I 462

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1PEN’NSYLVLANIA.t. 1was never more ill love with smoke and dirt than when I stood here and watched the darkness of night close in upon the floating soot whlich hovered over the houtise-tops of the city. I cannot say that I saw the sun set, for there was no sun. I should say that the sun never shone at Pittsburg, as foreigners who visit London in November declare that the sun never shlines there.” The city is handsomely built, brick and stone being the principal materials used; but the dense smoke soon defaces the handsomest structure. In consequence of this the place has a black grimy appearance, which effectually mars the work of taste and wealth.

There are many handsome residences in the eastern section. The subut)rbs are preferred for purposes of residence however. They are very picturesque in themselves, and are beauttifully built tip, and present a very marked contrast to the city in cleanliness. The Public Buildings are among the handsomest in America. The Court Hot8se is situated on the summit of Grant’s Hill, and is a han(dsome edifice of granite, of thle Grecian Doric order, with a iinob)le portico. The summit of the dome is 148 feet from the ground. The new Ctstom House is built of freestone in the Grecian style. It contains the Post Office. Besides these are several others whichl are worthy of notice. Some of the churches and commercial buildings are among the principal ornaments of the city. There are also 2 fine market houses, one of which contains a large public hall. The Educational Institutions are in a flourishing condition. The public schools are numerous, and are attended by about 20,000 ptipils. Besides these the city contains a numl)er of private schools. The Benevolent Institutions are the Yferey Hos)ital, under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy, the Unitecl St(tes:,3frine Hospital, the Honie fo) the Friiendless, the Church Homite, designed chlliefly as a home for children of all denominations, the Pittsbury Infirmary, the Romarn Cutholic Or)hcan Asyhtm, and a Houttse of Rejkttge. Jn addition to these are the Wle-stern, Peansylvantia Hospital (which has a department for the insane at DI)ixmnont, 8 miles from the city), and the ffouse of iScdustry, situated in Alleghany City, but really to be regarded as among the institutions of Pittsburg. The IVestern Penitetiairy of Pennsylvania is located in Alleghallny City. It is an imnmense stone building in the Norman style. There are about 110 churches in the city of Pittsburg, and about 30 in Alleghany City. Some of them are imposing structures and are admirably located. 463

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1’f IIE (UIEA’ lEPUtBLI1C. Pittsburg is supplie(dl witlh )ure water from the Alleghany River, and is lighted with gas of an excellent quality. It is divided into 9 wards, and is governed by a Mavyor and Council. It is well provided with street railwrays, which also connect its business centres withl the suburbs on both rivers. Four fine bridges connect it with Alleghany City, and two extenda across the Monongalhela to Birminghlam. Alleghctqay (: ty is simply an extensive suburb of Pittsburg, and is divided from it by the Alleg’hinNy River. It is well built in the main, and contains many handsome residences, being a favorite residence of the people of the greater city, as it is very much cleaner. It contains a large number of manufact,,uring establishments, and is a place of considerable importance. Here are located the Westecrn Theolo’icUal Semia’y of the Prc’s,byteriacin Chu)ch; the Theolo.yical Sem-iinary of the A.ssociate RIefo7imed Church; and the Alle. hany Theoloyical I]stitete. In 1870 the l)oL)ulation of Alleghany City was 53. 181. The nmanufactures, etc., of the city will be treated of in connection with those of Pittsburg. Alleghany is a distinct corporation, and is governed by its own MIayor and Council. Birmi,ghamn and Jfanchester are considerable suburbs.

The former is situated on the south side of thie Mlonongehlela River, imme(liately opposite Pittsburg, and the latter is on the Ohio, 2 miles below the city. Mr. Geo. IT. Thurston, in his Quarterly Circular, thus describes manufacturing Pittsburg: “Pittsburgh is not to be seen in a day, nor yet in a week; and while the simple fact that it is a great manufacturing city is generally acknowledged, yet the details of that greatness are but little understood. Many years ago, before the iron horse had crossed the Alleghanies, while yet the transportation of the merchandise for the West was made in the old six-horse Conestoga wagons, the City of Wheeling claimed importance and coming greatness, inasmuch as that forty of those wagons had arrived in thlat city in one day. Since then Wheeling has grown into an active little colmpetitor of Pittsburgh, the great parent of all western manufactures, and of which it, as well as a dozen other manufacturing towns, are offshoots, the natural outspringing and colonization of Pittsburgh’s growth. That growth has been so marked and so continuous that we have often, in the past few years, been tempted to remodel the language of Wheeling, and say: Forty miles of mills and factories every day in operation in Pittsburgh. This is no brag, but almost literally a reality, although no doubt a terse explanation of’

what Pittsburglh really is like’ is rather startling to her 464

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PENNSYLVANIA. own citizens. The real faict is that actual measurement shows that in the limits of what is known throughout the country as Pittsburgh there are thirtyfive miles of manufactories of iron, of glass, of steel, of copper, of oil, of wools, of cotton, of brass, alone, not to include inaniufactories in other materials, nor including any of less grade than manufactories of iron chains in iron, or plows in wood. A measure ment of the ground also shows that these 35 miles of factories are so closely contiguous that were they placed il a single row each factory would have but about 400 feet of front space for its workings. “The statistics of this statement of the extent of Pittsburgh manu facturing power are these: From the point up the south bank of the Alleghany River to the Sharpsbutrg bridge is 5 miles; in that dis tance, between the river bank and Penn street, there are 115 factories of the classes designated.

From Sharpsburg bridge down the north bank of the Alleghany River to Wood’s Run is 8 miles, and in that distance there are 67 manufactories.

From Temperanceville to Brownstown, up the west bank of the Monongahela River, is 4 miles, and in that distance there are 70 factories, between the river and Carson street. From the Monongahela bridge up the course of the Monongahela River, to a point beyond BrowVnstown, is 321 miles, and in that distance, I)etween Carson street and the hill, there are 43
manufactories. From the Point to the Copper Works, on the east bank of the Monongahela, is 32 miles, and in that distance there are 55 factories.

From Federal street out Ohio street to Duquesne Boroutigh is 121 miles, and in that distance there are 15 factories. On Butcher’s Runi, in a distance of 2 miles, there are 32 factories. Along Liberty street, from the Point to the Outer Depot, there are 19 factories in a distance of 2
miles. On 2d and 3d avenues, from Liberty to Try streets, a distance of 1
mile, there are 18 factories. Along Pennsylvania avenue to Soho street, a distance of 21 miles, there are 17 factories. Between Ohio street and the base of the hill there are, in a distance of 3 miles, 24 factories. “Thus in a distance of 351 miles of streets, there are 475 mannfactories of iron, of steel, of cotton, of oil, of glass, of copper, occupying an average of less than 400 feet front each. “Were these factories placed in a single row, it will be easily seen how compactly they would be crowded, each occupying no more territory than was actually needed. They would be a continuous row, without interval, and show that in reality there are in Pittsburgh absolutely over 35 continuous miles of manufactures in daily operation. 30 465

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. ” Pittsburghers, then, in answer to the question, what is Pittsburgh like? can readily answer-Likle a row 35 miles long of facetories twisted up into a compact tangle all belching forth smoke, all glowing with fires, all swarming with workmen, all echoing with the clank of machinery. The territory over and around which this immense chain of machinery is strung, thlough all popularly known as Pittsburgh, is composed of the city of Pittsburgh and the city of Alleghany, the boroughs of Temperanceville, West Pittsburgh, Monongahela, South Pittsburgh, Birmingham, and East Birmingham. The whole formns, however, one compact city, in effect, divided only by the two rivers, which, running through the district, are spanned by numerous bridges, over several of which street railroads link, with their almost continuous lines of cars, in one mass, a population in this hive of industry numbering 200,000 souls.

Although the name of Pittsburgh, and the term Pittsburgh manufactures, have been’as household words’ throughout the West, since the days of the earlier Western settlements, still its growth has been so equable with that of the West that but few realize the real magiitude of the community.

— “Called into existence by no sudden speculative rush of emigration, drawn primarily by some adventitious circumstances, Pittsburgh has accumulated its population through the course of years from the soli(-l advantages each passing year renders but more apparent. InI all past years Pittsburgh has been a point of departure for much of the emigration to the West, a position the city still maintains. Thus naturally Pittsburgh became a supply point for the West, and the West the chief market for her productions. The increase of the population of the West has told with unerring certainty upon the business and the population of Pittsburgh. “In 1800, the population of the States through and along which Pittst)burgh eijoys river navigation, was 385,667, and that of Pittsbutrgh was 1565, or a little over ~4 per cent., while the value of ler business was, in 1803, but $350,000, or equal to 92 l per cent. of the population of the West.

“In 1810, there were in the same western territory 1,057,531 inhabitants, and in Pittsburgh 4876, or 92-per cent., being y  over the necessary increase to preserve the ratio of our increase in the city’s population, in proportion to that of the West. The amount of business of the city was then estimated at $1,000,000, equal to 93 per cent. on the population of the territory indicated. “In 1830, there were 3,331,298 inhabitants in the section of the 466

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PENNSYLVANIA. Union before indicated, and in Pittsburgh there were 16,988, still showing tile growth of the city was not in the same ratio of increase as the VWest, as in past periods, but a gain of IL over what was neces sary. “In 1840, there were 5,173,949 inhabitants in tile western and southwestern States, and the population of Pittsburgh was 38,931, being 2
per cent., showing not only the maintenance of the progres sive ratio, but a gain over it of -2,’ per cent. “In 1836, the business of the city was estimated at $31,146,550, being something over 600 per cent., showing the business of the city had not only kept pace with the population of the West, as shown in previous ratios, but had compounded thereon 500 per cent. “In 1860, the population of the Mississippi basin and the western lake slopes (Pittsbur,gh’s market), was shown by the census of that year to be in round numbers 17,000,000. At that date the business of Pittsburgh was estimated at over $100,000,000, showing the ratio of business on the population of the West, attained in 1836 and 1840, was still maintained.

“The population of the district considered and claimed as Pittsul)ug, being the compact mass of population between and on both sides of the rivers to the city limits, was estimated at 140,000 it] that year, showing that in population as well as business the ratio of Pittsburghl’s prosperity with the wealth of the West continues to be maintained. What the population of the West may be as shown by the census of 1870 we know not, but those who know the great growth of Pittsburgh in the last nine years, the vast increase in her rollingmills and in her workshops, cannot doubt that the ratio of increase is still maintained. In the great swell of the population of the West, Pittsburgh seems not only to keep pace and to hold her trade, but that trade, like her population, seems to increase in arithmetical proportion with the growth of the country. Considering the competitors which have arisen for the market Pittsburgh supplies with her staples, this is wvorthy especial note as indicative of a natural force in her position and her resources not to be lost sight of in contemplating her future. “The force of Pittsburgh’s position is seen at a glance.

I)istant only 300 to 400 miles from three of the greatest seaboard cities of the Union; but 200 nmiles from the great chain of inland seas, and reaching in all directions by continuous river navigation an area of country 1200 by 960 geographical miles, she is at the same time the 467

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. key point of a railway route nearer by 40 miles from Nest York to the West than any now constructed. Situated in the heart of a bituminous coal formation of the Appalachian field, and equally advantageously located as to deposits of iron ore, her geographical relations to the staples for manufacturing are unequalled. She stands in a geographical centre from which a circle with a radius of 400 miles embraces Pennsylvania, New York, Vermnont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Delaware, New Jersey, Maryland, Virginia, Ohio, North Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, Indiana, Michigan, Canada, parts of Illinois and South Carolina. This circle embraces every variety of climate, and nearly, if not quite all the staples of the United States and its valuable manufacturing minerals, over which she holds the magician’s wand in her unequalled supply of fuel. For’coal,’ says Vischers,‘is the indispensable aliment of industry. It is to industry what oxygen is to the lungs-water to the plant-nourislhment to the animal.’ “The statistics of the coal by which Pittsburgh is surrounded shows how inexhaustible is this element of her force and her progress. The extent of the bituminous coal fields by which Pittsburgh is surrounded is equal to 8,600,000 square acres. The amount of coal contained in that area it is difficult to estimate. It has been stated that the upper seam, rating it at 8 feet, contains 53,516,430,000 tons, which at $2 per ton, or a little over 7
cents per bushel, would be worth $107,032,860,000-a sum which, could it be realized, would pay the national debt thirty times. Of course although centuries will not see it taken from the earth, the figures show what a mine of wealth Pittsburgh has to draw from; and how mighty is the magnet she possesses to attract to her boundaries minerals and staples of all the States, population and wealth. At the present time the coal trade of the city amounts to about $10,000,000 annually, and there are in the vicinity of Pittsburgh 103 collieries; the value of lands,.4Iouses, improvements, cars, etc., amounts to about $11,000,000. The amount of coal mined from these collieries in 1864 was 48,462,966 bushels, of which nearly 30,000,000 bushels were exported down the Ohio River alone. “But not in coal alone is her strength shown. In those things which coal enables her busy artizans to produce, is her power equally apparent. As nearly as can be ascertained, onehalf of the glass factories in the United States are located at Pittsburgh, where there are 40 firms engaged in the manufacture of glass, who run 60 factories producing the various descriptions of green, window, flint, and lime 4G8

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PENNSYLVANI,A. glass, employing over 4000 workmen, and producing between four and five millions worth of glass. “In iron and steel, Pittsburgh claims and maintains to be the great market of the country. The exact money value of this great trade has always been difficult to arrive at.

Much of the iron is shipped by rail to various points, and much by river.

By figures we have at command of the shipments of plate, bar, sheet, and rod iron and steel from Pittsburgh in the year 1865, it would seem that there were exported, by rail alone, to 24 different States, over 143,000
tons, and 180,000 kegs of nails to 20 different States. These railroad exportations, it must not be forgotten, are not probably half the manufacture. That of castings there were shipped by rail alone 5,143,008
pounds in 1864, to 22 different States; and that by one railroad alone there were received in 1864, into the city, 107,000 tons of pig-iron and blooms, exclusive of the yield of 6 or 8 furnaces running in the city of Pittsburgh, or the imports by river and other railroads. It is estimated that of shipments made from Pittsburgh, at least as much is sent by river as by rail. There are over 30 iron rollingmills in Pittsburgh, 6 steel mills, and between 50 and 60 iron founderies. These figures but feebly indicate the full extent of the great iron and steel trade of the city, of which the sales alone of articles made of iron subject to tax, made and returned to the city, was from March, 1865, to March, 1866, over $27,000,000. “Oil is another great staple, and there are in Pittsburgh 58
refineries, in which is invested a capital of nearly $8,000,000 in buildings and machinery; and in the tanks and barges necessary to the carrying on of the business, nearly $6,000,000 more. The oil trade of the city for the 5 years from January, 1863, to January, 1868, amounted to about $56,000,000, or an average of about $11,000,000 annually. “Other branches of Pittsburgh manufactures might be cited to show its force and solidity, but enough has been stated to partially show what Pittsburgh is like. To show that she is like a great city of nearly 200,000 population; that she is a great arsenal for the supply of manufactured articles; that she grows with the growth, and increases in wealth with the prosperity of the West. Although she hlas apparently grown but slowly, yet she has grown like the oak, and but counts her infancy in the years in which other cities spring and mature; and she stands like a sooty giant astride the head waters of the Ohio, rejoicing in the lusty strength of her fresh youth, while her powerful servant, the mighty Geni of the Mine, throughout the waters 469

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THE GREAT RIEPUBLIC. of the Ohio, along the shores of the Father of Waters, around the borders of the great lakes, on either hand of the pathway of the iron horse, athwart the Western prairies, proclaims her the dusky Queen of Industry, and commands homage to her iron sceptre in threefourths of the States of the Union.” Its very location has placed an enormous trade in the hands of Pittsburg. Lying at the head of the Ohio River, it has water communication with every town on the navigable portion of the Ohio, thie Mississippi, and the Missouri rivers and their tributaries. Being one of the principal railway centres of the West, it has railway connections with all parts of the Union. The principal harbor is ftirnished by the Monongahela River, which has a greater depth of water than the Alleghany. The Ohio is navigable to the confluence of those streams for boats of light draught, except at infrequent periods of very great dryness. The boats are generally built in such a manner as to adapt them to the lowest stages of water. Large side-wheel steamers also navigate the Ohio during the season of high water. By means of these steamers, a heavy trade is maintained with the States along the rivers we have mentioned. Pittsburg thus controls about 12,000 miles of water transportation, and can deliver its products without breaking bulk in over 400 counties of 17 States. In 1865, there were 159 steamboats owned in the city. The number is much greater at present. Besides these, hundreds of steamers, owned in other States, trade with Pittsburg. In 1870, the population of Pittsburg was 86,235. In February, 1754, a party of En,glish settlers built a stockade and established a trading post on the point of land lying between the Monongahela and Alleghany rivers at their confluence, on the site of the present city of Pittsburg. In April, they were attacked and driven away by the French, who claimed the country. The conquerors erected a fort on the spot, and called it Diquesne, in honor of the Governor of Canada. This fort at once became the centre of all the military operations of the French in this part of the country. To the French claim, which was based upon their discovery of the region, the English advanced a counter claim based upon a charter from the Crown, strengthened by a treaty with the Iroquois. The importance attached to the position by the French made it a matter of the greatest moment to the English to obtain possession of it. General Braddock was sent, in 1755, at the head of the largest force that had ever crossed the mountains, to recapture it. He was attacked 4-70

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PENNSYLVANIA. and defeated by the French and Indians, on the 9th of July of that year, at a point on the Monongahela, about 12 miles above the fort. On the 15th of October, 1758, a force of 800 men, under Major Grant, advancing to attack the fort, was defeated with terrible loss. On the 25th of November, 1758, the fort fell into the hands of a force of 6000 men under General Forbes. The French and their Inidian allies vainly endeavored to check Forbes’ advance, and failing in this, set the fort on fire and retreated on the 24thl, the day before the arrival of the English. General Forbes rebuilt and strengthened the fort. It was completed ill January, 1759, and was called Fort Pitt, in honor of the great English Minister. Tile French made several efforts to recapture it, but without success. In 1764, the settlement of the town began, the houses being erected in the vicinity of the fort. In 1772, the fort was abandoned by the English, who had no further use for it as a military post. The site was claimed by Virginia under a charter from James I. Pennsylvania also claimed it under a charter from Charles II. Virginia prepared to assert her claim by force, and on the 11th of August, 1775, threw a company of soldiers into Fort Pitt. The Revolution made this a minor question, however, and in August, 1779, Commissioners, appointed by the two provinces, met in Baltimore, and agreed upon the existing boundary which was ratified by their respective Legislatures. The excise troubles of 1791-4, made Pittsburg the scene of considerable violence. In 1845, a fire destroyed the entire business portion of the city, causing a loss of $5,000,000. Pittsburg was incorporated as a borough in 1804, and as a city in 1816. SCRANTON, The fourth city in population in the State, is situated in Luzerne county, on the left bank of the Lackawanna River, 137 miles northeast of Harrisburg. It is the terminus of several railway lines leaditlig direct to Harrisburg, Philadelphia, and New York, and the centre of an immense coal trade. Iron ore is found in large quantities in the vicinity, and the city is largely engaged in the manufacture of iron wares of various kinds. The principal sources of its prosperity, however, are the rich coal mines which lie near the town. These mines are worked by the Pennsylvania and other companies, and employ large numbers of miners of all nationalities. Scranton is a well built town, containing about 4
public schools, 11 churches, and 2 newspaper offices. It is prettily situated, and is 471

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SCRANTON. improving in its architectural pretensions.

During the last few years, the population has increased with unprecedented rapidity. In 1860, the city contained 9223 inhabitants. In 1870, the population was 35,762. If Pittsburg and Alleghany are regarded as one city, Scranton is the third city in Pennsylvania. READING, The fifth city of the State, is situated in Berks county, on the left or east bank of the Schuylkill River, 52 miles east of Harrisburg, and 52 miles northwest of Philadelphia, with both of which places it is connected by railways. It has railway connections with other parts of the State. The Schuylkill Canal brings it in direct cominunication with the entire Schuylkill region. The river is here crossed by two bridges, one of which is 600 feet long. The city is beautifully situated on a sloping plain, which rises from the river, and is terminated on the east by an eminence called Penn’s Mount. The city is well built, brick being the principal material. The streets are broad and straight, and intersect each other at right 472

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PENNSYLVANIA. angles. The streets are macadamized and afford a firm, smooth roadway, admirably adapted to travel. The general appearance of the town is clean. The principal buildings are the Court House and the churches, some of the latter of which are very handsome. The public schools are excellent, and there are several private schools. There are 23
churches in the city, and 2 daily and 6 weekly newspapers are published here. Reading is lighted with gas, and supplied with water. The surrounding country is very beautiful, and as this section of the State is one of the finest agricultural regions of the Union, Reading is a place of considerable trade. It is also largely engaged in manufactures-iron, cotton, and flour being the principal articles. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 33,932. Reading was laid out in 1748, by Thomas and Richard Penn, and named from the town of Reading in England. In 1783, it was incorporated as a borough; and in 1847, as a city. LANCASTER, The seventh city of the State, is finely situated in Lancaster county, 1 mile west of Conestoga Creek, 70 miles west of Philadelphia, and 37 miles east-southeast of Harrisburg. The Pennsylvania Central Railway passes through the city, and connects it with Philadelphia, Harrisburg, and Pittsburg. The slack-water navigation of the Conestoga gives it water transportation to the sea, and is a source of considerable wealth to it. It is situated in the wealthiest and most thickly populated section of the State, and possesses a large trade with the surrounding country and with Philadelphia. It is also largely engaged in manufactures, and is extending its efforts in this direction. It is noted for the production of rifles, axes, carriages, agricultural implements, locomotives, and cotton goods. The city is regularly laid off.

The streets are straight and well paved, and intersect each other at rightangles. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with pure water from Conestoga Creek. The majority of the buildings are of brick, and this gives to the place a substantial appearance. Many of the dwellings are elegant and would do credit to any city. The Court House is a fine edifice of stone, in the Grecian style; and the County Prison is a handsome structure, of sandstone. There are several excellent public schools in the city, and about as many flourishing private schools.

Lancaster 473

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. is the seat of zIlarshal Colleye, organized in 1853, in connection with the old establishment of Franklin College, which was founded in 1787. The city contains 15 churches, and 2 public libraries.

Two daily and 7 weekly newspapers are published here. Lancaster is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 20,233.

Lancaster was laid out in 1730. It was settled principally by Germans, and the present inhabitants are mostly of German descent. It was for many years the largest inland town in the United States, and was the capital of Pennsylvania from 1799 to 1812. In 1818, it was incorporated as a city.

ERIE, The eighth city of the State, is situated in Erie county, on the southeast shore of Lake Erie, 90 miles southwest of Buffalo, 129 miles north of Pittsburg, and 310 miles northwest of Harrisburg. It lies immediately opposite the island of Presque Isle, which was once a peninsula. The harbor is one of the largest and best sheltered on the lake. It is about 1 mile wide and 321 miles long, with a depth of from 9
to 25 feet of water along its entire length. It has been greatly improved and strongly fortified by the United States Government, and its entrance is marked by a lighthouse. It is connected with the Ohio River at Beaver, by the Erie Extension Canal, and has railway communication with all parts of the Union. It possesses a flourishing lake trade, and is largely engaged in the export of lumber, petroleum, and coal. It is also interested in manufactures to a limited extent, the canal affording extensive waterpower. The town is well built, being constructed chiefly of brick. It is situated onl an elevated bluff, overlooking and commanding a fine view of the lake. The streets are wide and straight, and cross each other at rightangles. Near the centre of the city is a tasteful park.

Erie contains about 13 churches, a public library, 7 newspaper offices, and several public schools, which rank among tl-he best in the State. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water. It is governed by a Miayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 19,646. It is the only lake port situated in Pennsylvania. Erie was settled about the beginning of the present century. In 1805, it was incorporated. Its history is uneventful, and its growth was slow. The principal event connected with it was the fitting out here of Perry’s fleet during the war of 1812-15. 474

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PENNSYLVANIA. EASTON. EASTON, In Northampton county, on the right bank of the Delaware River, at the junction with that stream of the Lehigh River and Bushkill Creekl, is a flourishing city. It is regularly laid out in rectangular blocks, is well built, and is lighted with gas and supplied with pure water. It is finely situated in the midst of some of the most beautiful scenery of the State, and is in many respects one of the most picturesque cities in America. The Lehigh and Delaware are here crossed by fine bridges. The city possesses good waterpower, and is largely engaged in manufactures. Flour, oil, iron, limber, cotton goods, and firearms are the principal articles produced. The city is connected with New York, Philadelphia, and all parts of the State, by railway. By means of these and the Delaware, Lehigh, and Morris Canals, large quantities of coal, lumber, and grain are received and shipped to the principal markets of the country. Easton is one of the most enterprising places in Pennsylvania, and is growing rapidly in population and importance. It contains the county buildings, several handsome churches, and several excellent schools. It is the seat of Lafayette College, a flourishing institution.

Five newspapers 475

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. are published here. The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 10,987. Easton was laid out in 1738, and was incorporated as a town in 1789. The surrounding country is very beautiful, and is rich in iron ore and limnestone. MISCELLANIES. OLD

TIME CUSTOMS IN PHILADELPHIA. ]Mr. Watson, in his “I Historic Tales of the Olden Time,” gives some interesting accounts of the customs of the people of Philadelphia prior to the Revolution. He says: They were distinguished for a frank and generous hospitality. They made many entertainments, but they were devoid of glare and show, and always abl)un dant and good. Dr.

Franklin, describing the state of the people about the year 1752, says they were all loyal, and submitted willingly to the government of the Crown, or paid for defence cheerfully. “They were led by a thread. They not only had a respect, but an affection, for Great Britain, for its laws, its customs, and its manners, and even a fondness for its fashions,-not yet subsided. Natives of Great Britain were always treated with particular regard; and to be’an Old England man’ gave a kind of rank and respect among us.” The old people all testify that the young of their youth were much more reserved, and held under much more restraint in the presence of their elders and parents, than now. Bashfulness and modesty in the young were then regarded as virtues; and the present freedom before the aged was not then countenanced. Young lovers then listened and took sidelong glances, when before their parents or elders. It was the custom for the younger part of the family, and especially of the female part, to dress up neatly towards the close of the day, and sit in the street porch.

Sometimes they would go from porch to porch in neilghborhoodls, and sit and converse. Tea was such a rarity that it was measured out for the teapots in small hanld-scales. Afternoon visits were not made, as now, at night, but at so early an hour as to permit matrons to go home and see their children put to bed. Before the Revolution, no hired man or woman wore any shoQs so fine as calfskin; coarse neats leather was their every day wear. MIen and women then hired by the year-men got 16 to 20, and a servant woman 8 to 10. Out of that it was their custom to lay up money, to buy before their marriage a bed and bedding, silver teaspoons, and a spinning whleel, etc. Among the rough amusements of men might be mentioned shooting, fishing, and sailing parties. These were frequent, as also mutton clubs, fishing, house and country parties were much indclulged in by respectable citizens. Great sociability prevailed among all classes of citizens, until the strife with Great Britain sent’ every man to his own ways; ” then discord and acrimony ensued, and the previously general friendly intercourse never returned. We afterwards grew another and enlarged people. Our girls in the daytime used to attend the work of the family, and in the even 476

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PENNSYLVANIA. ing paraded in their porch at the door. Some of them, however, even then, read novels, and walked without business abroad. Those who had not housework employed themselves in their accomplishments, such as making shell-work, cornucopias, working of pocket books, with a close, strong-stitched needlework. The ladies, seventy years ago, were much accustomed to ride on horseback for recreation. It was quite common to see genteel ladies riding, with jockey caps. Boarding schools for girls were not known in Philadelphia until about the time of the Revolution, nor had they ally separate schools for writing and ciphering, but were taught in common with boys. The ornamental parts of female education were bestowed, but geography and grammar were never regarded for them, until a certain Sir. Horton-thanks to his namie-proposed to teach those sciences to young ladies. Similar institutions afterwards grew into favor. It was usual, in the gazettes of 1760 to 1770, to announce marriages in words like these, to wit: “MIiss Betsey Lawrence, or Aliss Elizabeth Caton, a most agreeable lady, with a large or a handsome fortune.” In still earlier times, marriages had to be promulged by affixing the intentions of the parties on the court house or meeting house door; and when the act was solemnized, they should have at least twelve subscribing witnesses. The act which imposed it was passed in 1700. The we(ldding entertainments of olden times were very expensive and harassing to the wedded. The house of the parent would be filled with company to dine; the same company would stay to tea and to supper. For two days, punch was dealt out in profusion. The gentlemen saw the groom on the first floor, and then ascended to the second, where they saw the bride; there every gentleman, even to 100 in a day, kissed her. Even the plain Friends submitted to these things. I have known rich families which had 120 persons to dine-the same who had signed their certificate of marriage at the monthly meeting; these also partook of tea and supper. As they formally passed the meeting twice, the same entertainment was repeated. Two days the male firiends would call and take punch, and all would kiss the bride. Besides this, the married pair, for two entire weeks, saw large tea parties at their home, having in attendance every night the groomsman and bridesmaids. To avoid expense and trouble, Friends have since made it sufficient to pass but one meeting.

When these marriage entertainments were made, it was expected also that punch, cakes, and meats should be sent out very generally in the neighborhood, even to those who were not visitors in the family. Of articles and rules of diet, so far as it differed firom ours, in the earliest time, we may mention coffee, as a beverage, was used but rarely; clocolate for morning and evening, or thickened milk for children. Cookery in general was plainer than now. In the country, morning and evening repasts were generally made of milk, having bread boiled therein, or else thickened with pop-robins-things made up of flour and eggs into a batter, and so dropped in with the boiling milk. A lady of my acquaintance thus describes the recollections of her early days, preceding the war of Independence: Dress was discriminate and appropriate, both as regarded the season and the character of the wearer. Ladies never wore the same dresses at work and on visits; they sat at home, or went out in the morning, in chintz; brocades, satins, and mantuas were reserved for evening or dinner parties. Robes or negligees, as they were called, were always worn in 4’.1

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THEL GREAT REPI’UBLIC. full dress. Muslins were not worn at all. Little Misses at a dancing school ball (for these were almost the only fetes that fell to their share in the days of discrimination) were dressed in frocks of lawn or cambric. Worsted was then thought dress enough for common days.

As a universal fact, it may be remarked, that no other color than black was ever made for ladies’ bonnets, when formed of silk or satin. Fancy colors were unknown, and white bonnets of silk fabric had never been seen.

The first inno vation remembered was the bringing in of blue bonnets. The time was when the plainest woman among the Friends (now so averse to fancy colors) wore their colored silk aprons, say, of green, or blue, etc. This was at a time when the gay wore white aprons. In time, white aprons were dis used by the gentry, and then the Friends left off their colored ones and used the white. The same old ladies among Friends, whom we can remember as wearers of the white aprons, wore also large white b)eaver hats, with scarcely the sign of a crown, and which was indeed confined to the head by silk cords tied under the chin. Eighlt dollars would buy such a hat, when beaver fur was more plentiful. They lasted such ladies almost a whole life of wear. They showed no fur. Very decent women went abroad and to churches with check aprons. I have seen those who kept their coach in my time to bear them to church, who told me they went on foot, with a check apron, to the Arch street Presbyterian meeting in their youth. Then all hired women wore short gowns and petticoats of domestic fabric, and could be instantly known as such whenever seen abroad. In the former days, it was not uncommon to see aged persons with large silver buttons to their coats and vests-it was a mark of wealth. Some had the initials of their names engraved on each button. Sometimes they were made out of real quarter dollars, with the coinage impression still retained-these were used for the coats, and the elevenpenny-bits for vests and breeches. My father wore an entire suit decorated with conch-shlell buttons, silver mounted. The articles of dress in those early times would at the present day not be recognized by their names. The following is an advertisement for the year 1745: “,For sale. Tandems, isinghams, nuns, bag and gulix (these all mean shiirting), hluckabacks (a figured worsted for women’s gowns), quilted humliums, turketees, grassets, single allopeens, children’s stays, jumps and bodice, whlalebone and iron busks, men’s new market caps, silk and worsted wovle patterns for breeches, allibanes, dickmansoy, cushloes, chuckloes, cuttanees, crimson dannador, cliaia’d soosees, lemonllees, byrampauts, moree, naffermamy, saxlingham, prullielloe, barragons, druggets, florettas,” etc., etc. It was very common for children and working women to wear beads made of Job’s tears, a berry of a shrub. They used them for economy, and said it prevented several diseases. Until the period of the Revolution, every person who wore a fur hat, had it always of entire beaver. Every apprentice, at receiving his “freedom,” received a real beaver at a cost of six dollars.

Their every day hats were of wool, called felts. What were called roramn hats, being fur faced upon wool felts, came into use directly after the peace, and excited much surprise, as to the invention. Gentlemen’s hats, of entire beaver, universally cost eight dollars. The use of lace veils to ladies’ faces is but a modern fashion, not of more than twenty to thirty years standing. Now they wear black, white, and green-the last only lately introduced as a summer veil. In olden time, none wore a veil but as a mark and badge of mourning, and then, as now, of crape in preference to lace.

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PENNSYLVANIA. Ancient ladies remembered a time, in their early life, when the ladies wore blue stockings and party-colored clocks of very striking appearance. May not that fashion, as an extreme toa of the upper circle in life, explain the adoption of the term, “Blue-stocking Club? ” I have seen, in possession of Samuel Coates, Esq., the wedding silk stockings of his grandmother, of a lively green, adll great red clocks My grandmother wore, in winter, very fine worsted green stockings, with a gay clock surmounted with a bunch of tulips. The late President, Thomas Jefferson, when in Plhiladelphia, on his first mission abroad, was dressed in the garb of his day after this manner, to wit: he wore a long waisted white cloth coat, scarlet breeches and vest, a cocked hat, with a black cockade.

Even spectacles, permanently useful as they are, have been subject to the caprice of fashion. Now they are occasionally seen of gold-a thing I never saw in my youth; neither did I ever see one young man with spectacles-now so numerous. A purblind or half-sighlted youth then deemed it his positive disparagement to be so regarded. Such would have rather run against a street post six times a day than have been seen with them. Indeed, in early olden time they had not the art of using temple spectacles. Old Mrs.

Shoemaker, who died in 1825, at the age of 95, said she had lived many years in Philadelphia before she ever saw temple spectacles-a name then given as a new discovery, but now so common as to have lost its distinctive character. In her early years, the only spectacles she ever saw were called “bridge spectacles,” without any side supporters, and held on the nose solely by nipping the bridge of the nose. My grandmother wore a black velvet mask in winter, with a silver mouth-piece to keep it on, by retaining it in the mouth. I have been told that green ones have been used in summer for some few ladies, for riding in the sun on horseback. Ladies formerly wore cloaks as their chief overcoats; they were used with some changes of form under the successive names of roquelaurs, capuchins, and cardinals. In Mrs. Shoemaker’s time, above named, they had no knowledge of umbrellas to keep off rain, but she had seen some few use kitisols-an article as small as present parasols now. They were entirely to keep off rain from ladies. They were of oiled muslin, and of various colors. They were imported from India by way of England. They must, however, have been but rare, as they never appear in any advertisements. Dr. Chancellor and the Rev. Mr. Duche were the first persons in Philadelphia who were seen to wear,umbrellas to keep off the rain. They were of oiled linen, very coarse and clumsy, with ratan sticks. Before their time, senie doctors and ministers used an oiled linen cape, hooked round their shoulders, looking not unlike the big coat capes now in use, and then called a roquelaur. It was only used for severe storms. About the year 1771, the first efforts were made in Philadelphia to introduce the use of umbrellas in summer, as a defence from the sun. They were then scouted in the public gazettes as a ridiculous effeminacy. On the other hand, the physicians recommended them, to keep of vertigoes, epilepsies, sore eyes, fevers, etc. Finally, as the doctors were the chief patrons, Doctor Chancellor and Doctor Iorgan, with the Rev. Parson Duche, were the first persons who had the hardihood to be so singuilar as to wear umbrellas in sunshine. Mr. Bingham, when he returned f,o’mn the West Indies, where he had amassed a great fortune 479

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TIE GREAT REPUBLIC. in the Revolution, appeared abroad in the streets attended by a mulatto boy bearing his umbrella. But his example did not take, and he desisted from its use. HOW GENERAL BRADDOCK WAS KILLED. There had long existed a tradition that Braddock was killed by one of his own men, and more-recent developments leave little or no doubt of the fact. A recent writer says: “When my father was removing with his family to the west, one of the Fausetts kept a public house to the eastward from, and near where Uniontown now stands, as the county seat of Fayette, Pa. This man’s house we lodged in about the 10th of October, 1781, twenty-six years and a few months after Braddock’s defeat, and there it was made anything but a secret that one of the family dealt the death-blow to the British general. “Thirteen years afterwards I met Thomas Fausett in Fayette county, then, as he told hlie, in his 70thl year. To him I put the plain question, and received a plain reply,‘I did shoot him!’ He then went on to insist, that, by doing so, hlie contributed to save what was left of the army. In brief, in my youth, I never heard the fact either doubted or blamed, that Fausett shot Braddock.” Hon. Andrew Stewart, of Uniontown, says hlie knew, and often conversed with Tom Fausett, who did not hesitate to avow, in the presence of his friends, that lie shot General Braddock.

Fausett was a man of gigantic frame, of uncivilized halfsavage propensities, and spent most of his life among the mountains, as a hermit, living on the game which lie killed. He would occasionally come into town, and get drunk. Sometimes hle would repel inquiries into the affair of Braddock’s death, by putting his fingers to his lips and uttering a sort of buzzing sound; at others, he would burst into tears, and appear greatly agitated by conflicting passions. In spite of Braddock’s silly order, that the troops should not protect themselves behind trees, Joseph Fausett had taken such a position, when Braddock rode up, in a passion, and struck him down with his sword. Tom Fausett, who was but a short distance from his brother, saw the whole transaction, and immediately drew up his rifle and shot Braddock through the lungs, partly in revenge for the outrage upon his brother, and partly, as lie always alleged, to get the general out of the way, and thus save the remainder of the gallant band, who had been sacrificed to his obstinacy and want of experience in frontier warfare.

THE MASSACRE OF WYOMING. The year 1776 commenced a new era in the history of the American colonies, and in some measure gave peace to Wyoming in the midst of war, by removing from Pennsylvania the authority of the proprietaries, and royal governors. During this interval of comparative repose, three companies of troops were enlisted at Wyoming for the service of the united colonies. They were attached to the Connecticut line, and made part of the troops of that colony. At this time, a full enumeration of the population at Wyoming was mnade, and the settlements were found to contain 5000 souls. Their militia at the same time amounted to 11.00 men, capable of bearing arms; and of this force about 300 enlisted to serve against the common enemy. After their march, the settlers continued to guard themselves with increased vigilance. Regular garrison duty was 480’

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PENNSYLVANIA. performed in the several fortifications by classes of the militia in successive order; in addition to which, a patrol called the “Scout,” was established through the valley, which was on duty night and day in succession, exploring all thickets and unfrequented grounds, in search of any lurking enemy which mighlt have come to disturb their peace, or spy out the land. The frontier settlements of the different colonies were at this time continually harassed by incursive parties of British troops and Indians from Canada; and the surrender of General Burgoyne, which took place in October, 1777, did not produce an abandonment of the system. Early in the spring of 1778, a force consisting of about 800 men, and composed of British regulars, tories, and In dians, under the command of Colonel John Butler, assembled at Niagara, and marched to the reduction of Wyoming. The Indians were in number about 400, and were commanded by Brandt, a warlike chief of mixed blood. At Tioga Point, these troops procured boats and rafts of wood, upon which they floated down the Susquehanna until they arrived about 20 miles above Wyoming Fort. Here they landed, the latter part of June. On the evening of the 2d of July, they took possession of a fort which the settlers had built on the bank of the river, about a mile below the head of the valley, called Fort Wintermoot. From this fort, which the British commander made his headquarters, were sent small scout ing parties in search of plunder and provisions, as well as to ascerta4in the situa tion and strength of the force which remained for the defence of the settlement. Upon the arrival of these troops, the settlers collected their principal forces in a fortification situated on the west bank of the river, at a large eddy in the stream below Monockonock Island, and about 3 miles above Wyoming Fort.

This fort had been built and defended by 40 of the settlers in that vicinity, and had thence obtained the name of “Forty Fort.” The garrison, now assembled here, consisted of the most active of the settlers, and amounted to 368 men, a small party being left in the other forts for the protection of the settlement in their immediate vicinity. About a month previous, messengers had been sent from the settlers to the continental army, to inform the commander-in-chlief of their situation, and to request that a detachment might be sent to their assistance. On the morning of the 3d of July, the officers of the garrison at Forty Fort held a council to determine on the propriety of marching from the fort, and attacking the enemy wherever found. The debates in this council of war are said to have been conducted with much warmth and animation. The ultimate determination was one on which depended the lives of the garrison, and the safety of the settlements. On one side it was contended that their enemies were daily increasing in numbers-that they would plunder the settlements of all kinds of property, and would accumulate the means of carrying on the war, while they themselves would become weaker; that the harvest would soon be ripe, and would be gathered or destroyed by their enemies, and all their means of sustenance during the succeeding winter would fail; that probably all their messengers were killed, and as there had been more than sufficient time, and no assistance arrived. they would probably receive none, and consequently now was the proper time to make the attack. On the other side it was argued, that probably some or all of the messengers may have arrived at headquarters, but that the al)sence of the commander-in-chief may have produced delay; that one or two weeks more may bring the desired assistance, and that to attack the enemy, superior as they were in number, out of the limits of their own fort, would produce almost certain destruction to the settlement and themselves, and captivity and slavery-perhaps 31 481

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. torture, to their wives and children. While these debates were progressing, five men belonging to Wyoming, but, who, at that time, held commissions in the continental army, arrived at the fort. They had received information that a force from Niagara had marched to destroy the settlements on the Susquehanna, and being unable to bring with them any reinforcements, they resigned their appointments and hastened immediately to the protection of their families. They had heard nothing of the messengers, neither could they give any certain information as to the probability of relief. The prospects of receiving assistance became now extremely uncertain. The alvocates for the attack prevailed in the council; and at dawn of day, on the morning of the 3d of July, the garrison left the fort, and began their march up thle river, under the command of Colonel Zebulon Butler. Having proceeded about 2 miles, the troops halted for the purpose of detaching a reconnoitering party to ascertain the situation of the enemy. Colonel Buttler rode along the flank of the column to invite volunteers for this service. Abraham Pike and an Irish companion offered their services, and they being the only volunteers, were accepted. The scout found the enemy in possession of Fort Wintermoot, and occupying huts immediately around it, carousing in supposed security; but on their return to the advancing column, they met two strolling Indians, by whom thei were fired upon, and upon whom they immediately returned the fire without effect. The settlers hastened their march for the attack, but the Indians had given the alarm, and the advancing troops found the enemy already formed in order of battle a small distance from their fort, with their right flank covered by a swamp, and their left resting upon the bank of the river. The settlers immediately displayed their column, and formed in corresponding order; but as the enemy was much superior in numbers, their line was much more extensive.

Pine woods and bushes covered the battle-ground; in consequence of which, the movements of the troops could not be so quickly discovered, nor so well ascertained. Colonel Zebulon Butler had command of the right, and was opposed by Colonel John Butler at the head of the British troops on the left. Colonel Nathan Denison commanded the left, opposed by Brandt at the head of his Indians on the enemy’s right. The battle commenced at about 40
rods distant, and continued about 15 minutes through the woods and brush without much execution. At this time, Brandt, with his Indians, having penetrated the swamp, turned the left flank of the settlers’ line, and with a terrible war-whoop and savage yell, made a desperate charge upon the troops composing that wing, which fell very fast, and were immediately cut to pieces with the tomahawk. Colonel Denison having ascertained that the savages were gaining the rear of the left.gave orders for that wing to fall back, in order to prevent being surrounded by the enemy. At the same time, Colonel John Butler finding that the line of the settlers did not extend as far towards the river as his own, doubled that end of his line, which was protected by a thick growth of brushwood, and having brought a party of his British regulars to act in column upon that wing, threw Colonel Zebulon Butler’s troops into some confusion. The orders of Colonel Denison for his troops to fall back having been understood by many to mean a retreat, the troops began to retire in much disorder. The savages considered this as a flight, and commenced a most hideous yell, rushed forward with their rifles and tomahawks, and cut the retiring line to pieces. In this situation, it was found impossible to rally and form the troops, and the rout became general throughout the line. The settlers fled in every direc 482

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PENNSYLVANIA. tion, and were instantly followed by the savages, who killed or took prisoners whoever came within their reach. Some succeeded in reaching the river, and escaped by swimming across; others fled to the mountains; and the savages, too much occupied with plunder, gave up the pursuit. When the first intelligence was received in the village of Wilkesbarre that the battle was lost, the women fled with their children to the mountains, on their way to the settlements on the Delaware, where many of themi at length arrived after suffering extreme hardships. Many of the men who escaped the battle, together with their women and children, who were unable to travel on foot, took retuge in Wyoming Fort, and on the following day, July 4th, Butler and Brandt, at the head of their combined forces, appeared before the fort and demanded its surrender. The garrison being without any’efficient means of defence, surrendered the fort on articles of capitulation, by which the settlers, upon giving up their fortifications, prisoners, and military stores, were to remain in the country unmolested, provided they did not again take up arms. In this battle, about 300 of the settlers were killed or missing, and from a great part of whom no intelligence was ever afterwards received. Thle officers killed were, 1 lieutenant-colonel, 1 major, 10 captains, 6 lieutenants, and 2 ensigns. A considerable number of the inhabitants of the different settlements on the Susquehanna, who, from their attachment to the British cause, were denominated tories, joined the British and savage troops previous to the battle, and exhibited instances of the most savage barbarity in the manner in which they carried on the war against their former neighbors and friends. One instance may serve to show the desperate feelings which those times produced. A short distance below the battle-ground, there is a large island in the river called “‘Monockonock Island.” Several of the settlers, while the battle and pursuit continued, succeeded in swimming to this island, where they concealed tllhemselves among the logs and brushwood upon it. Their arms had been thrown away in their flight, previous to their entering the river, so that they were in a manner defenceless. Two of them in particular were concealed near and in sight of each other. While in this situation, they observed several of the enemy who had pursued and fired at them while they were swimming the river, preparing to follow them to the island with their guns. On reaching the island they immediately wiped their guns and loaded them. One of them with his loaded gun soon passed close by one of these men who lay concealed from his view, and was immediately recognized by him to be the brother of his companion who was concealed near him, but who, being a tory, had joined the enemy. He passed slowly along, carefully examining every covert, and directly perceived his brother in his place of concealment. He suddenly stopped and said, ” so it is you, is it?” His brother finding that he was discovered, immediately came forward a few steps, and falling on his knees, begged him to spare his life, promising to live with him and serve him, and even to be his slave as long as he lived, if he would only spare his life. “All thiis is mighty good,”

replied the savage-hearted brother of the supplicating man, “but you are a d-d rebel;” and deliberately presenting his rifle, shot him dead upon the spot. The other settler made his escape from the island, and having related this fact, the tory brother thought it prudent to accompany the British troops on their return to Canada. The conditions of the capitulation were entirely disregarded by the British and savage forces, and after the fort was delivered up, all kinds of barlbarities were committed by them. The village of Wilkesl)arrc, consisting of 23 houses, was 483

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. l)urnt; men and their wives were separated from each other and carried into captivity; their property was plundered and the settlement laid waste. The remainder of the inhabitants were driven from the Valley, and compelled to proceed on foot 60 miles through the great swamp almost without food or clothing. A number perished in the journey, principally women and children-some died of their wounds, others wandered from the path in search of food and were lost, and those who survived, called the wilderness through which they passed, “The S’hades of Death;”

an appellation which it has since retained. On their way through the swamp, the unhappy fugitives met a detachment of regular troops from the continental army under the command of Captain Spalding, which, in consequence of the representations made by the messengers had been sent to the relief of the inhabitants at Wyoming; but as all was now lost, they returned to the Delaware, and the remnant of the inhabitants proceeded to their former homes in Connecticut. THE SERMON BEFORE THE BRANDYWINE. There are contradictory opinions about the following sermon, said to be delivered on the eve of the battle of Brandywine. Hence I give it without comments, just as I find it. The name of the chaplain is said to have been Trout. “They that take the sword slall perish by the sword! “-Matt. xxvi.

52. “SOLDIERS AND COUNTRYMIEN! We have met this evening, perhaps for the last time. We have shared the toil of the march, the peril of the figllt, the dismay of the retreat-alike we have endured cold and hunger, the contumely of the internal foe, and outrage of the foreign oppressor. We have sat night after night, beside the same camnp fire, shared the same rough soldiers’ fare;-we have together heard the roll of the reveille which called us to duty, or the beat of the tattoo which gave the signal for the hardy sleep of the soldier, with the earth for his bed, and his knapsack for a pillow. And now, soldiers and brethren, we have met in the peaceful valley, on the eve of the battle, while the sunlight is dying away behind yonder heights, the sunlight that to-morrow morn will glimmer on scenes of blood. We have met amid the whitening tents of our encampment; in times of terror and gloom have we gathered together. God grant it may not be for the last time. ” It is a solemn moment. Brethren, does not the solemn voice of nature seem to echo the sympathies of the town? The flag of our country droops heavily from yonder staff. The breeze has died away along the green plain of Chadd’s Ford-the plain that spreads before us glistening in sunlight-the heights of the Brandywine arise dark and gloomy beyond the waters of yonder stream, and all nature holds a pause of solemn silence on the eve of the uproar of the bloodshed and strife of to-morrow. “‘They that take the sword shall perish by the sword;’ and have they not taken the sword? ‘ Let the blood-stained valley-the desolated homes-the burned farm housethe murdered farmer-let the whitening bones of our own countrymen answer! Let the starving mother with the babe clinging to her withered breast, let her answer-with the death rattle mingling with the murmuring tones that mark the last struggle for life; let the dying mother and her babe answer! “It was but a day past, and our land slept in the light of peace. War was not 484

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PENNSYLVANIA. here, wrong was not here. Fraud, and woe, and misery and want dwelt not among us. From the eternal solitude of the green woods, arose the blue smoke of the settler’s cabin; and golden fields of corn looked forth from amid the waste of the wilderness, and the glad music of human voices awoke the silence of the forest. “Now! God of mercy! Behold the change. Under the shadow of a pretext, under the sanctity of the name of God-invoking the Redeemer to their aid, ldo these foreign hirelings slay our people. They throng our towns, they darken) our plains, and now they encompass our posts on the lonely plain of Chadd’s Ford. “‘They that take the sword shall perish by the sword.’ Brethren! think me not unworthy of belief, when I tell you that the doom of the Britisher is near! Think me not vain when I tell you that beyond the cloud which now enshirouds us, I see gathering thick and fast, the darker cloud and the blacker storm of Divine Retribution! They may conquer us on the morrow!-might and wrong may prevail, and we may be driven firom the field-but the hour of God’s vengeance w~ill come! Aye, if in the vast solitudes of eternal space, if in the heart of the boundless universe, there throbs the being of an awful God, quick to revenge and sure to punish guilt, there will the man, George of Brunswick, called king, feel in his brain and in his heart the vengeance of the eternal Jehovah! a blight will be upon his life-a withered brain, an accursed intellect; a bli,ght will be upon his children, and his people. Great God! how dread the punishment “Soldiers! I look around upon your familiar faces with a strange interest. To-morrow we will all go forth to battle-for need I tell you that your unworthy minister will march with you, invoking God’s aid in the fight. We will march forth to battle. Need I exhort you to fight the good fight for your homesteads, your wives, and your children? “And in the hour of battle when all around is darkness, lit by the lurid cannon glare, and the piercing musket flash, when the wounded strew the ground and the dead litter your path; then remember, soldiers, that God is with you. The eternal God is withl you, and fights for you. God! the awful, the infinite, fights for you, and you will triumph. ‘“They that take the sword shall perish by the sword.’ “You have taken the sword; but not in the spirit of wrong and revenge. You have taken the sword for your homes, for your wives, and for your little ones. You have taken the sword for truth, for justice, and for right, and to you the promise is, be of good cheer, for your foes have taken the sword in defiance of all man holds dear. They shall peris7i by the swoo-d. ” And now, brethren and soldiers, I bid you all farewell. Many of us may fall in the fight of to-morrow. God rest the souls of the fallen-many of us mUiy live to tell the story of the fight of to-morrow, and in the memory of all will rest the quiet scenes of this autumnal night. “Solemn twilight advances over the valley; the woods on the opposite heights fling their long shadows over the green of the meadow-aroundcl us are the tents of the continental host-the suppressed bustle of the camp, the hurried tread of the soldiers to and fro among the tents, the stillness that marks the eve oi battle. A”When we meet again, may the long shadows of twilight be flung over a peaceful land. God in heaven grant it! Amen.” 485

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. THiE BATTLE OF THE BRANDYWIINE, SEPT. 11th, 1777. The American army, in order to encourage the partisans of independence and overawe the disaffected, marched through the city of Philadelphia; it afterwards advanced towards the enemy, and encamped behind White Clay Creek. A little after, leaving only the riflemen in the camp, Washington retired with the main body of his army behind the Red Clay Creek, occupying with his right wing the town of Newport, situated near the Christiana, and upon the great road to Phlila delphia; his left was at Hockesen. But this line was little capable of defence. The enemy, reinforced by tlhe rear guard under General Grant, threatened with his right the centre of the Americans, extended his left as if with the intention of turning their right flank. Washington saw the danger, and retired with his troops behind the Brandywine; he encamped on the rising grounds which extend from Chadsford, in the direction of northwest to southeast. The riflemen of Max well scoured the righlit bank of the Brandywine, in order to harass and retard the enemy. The militia under the command of General Armstrong, guarded a passage below the principal encampment of Washington, and the right wing lined the banks of the river higher up, where the passages were more difficult. The passage of Chadsford, as the most practicable of all, was defended by the chief force of’ the army. The troops being thus disposed, the American general waited the approach of the English. Although the Brandywine, being fordable almost everywhere, could not serve as a sufficient defence against the impetuosity of the enemy, yet Washington had taken post upon its banks, from a conviction that a battle was now inevitable, and that Philadelphia could only be saved by a victorv. General Howe displayed the front of his army, but not however without great circumspection. Being arrived at Kennen Square, a short distance from the river, he detached his light-horse to the right upon Wilmington, to the left upon Lancaster road, and in front towards Chadsford. The two armnaies found thlemselves within 7 miles of each other, the Brandywine flowing between them. Early in the morning of the 11th of September, the British army marched to the enemy.

Howe had formed his army in two columns; the right commanded by General Knyphausen, the left by Lord Cornwallis. His plan was, that while the first should make repeated feints to attempt the passage of Chadsford, in order to occupy the attention of the republicans, the second should take a long circuit to the upper part of the river, and cross at a place where it is divided into two shallow streams. The English marksmen fell in with those of Maxwell, and a smart skirmish was immediately engaged. The latter were at first repulsed; but being reinforced from the camp, they compelled the Engish to retire in their turn. But at length, they also were reinforced, and Maxwell was constrained to withdraw his detachment behind the river. Meanwhile, Knyphausen advanced with his column, and commenced a furious cannonade upon the passage of Chladsford, making all his dispositions as if he intended to force it. The Americans defended themselves with gallantry, and even passed several detachments of light troops to the other side, in order to harass the eneniy’s flanks. But after a course of skirmishes, sometimes advancing, and at others obliged to retir’e, they were finally, with an eager pursuit, driven over the river. Knyphausen then appeared more than ever determined to pass the ford; he stormed and kept up an incredible noise. In this manner the attention of the Americans was fully occupied in the neighborhood of Chadsford. Meanwhlile, Lord Cornwallis, at 486

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PENNSYLVANIA. the head of the second column, took a circuitous march to the left, and gained unperceived the forks of the Brandywine. By this rapid movement, he passed both branches of the river at Trimble’s and at Jeffery’s fords, without opposition, about 2 o’clock in the afternoon, and then turning short down the river took the road to Dilworth, in order to fall upon the right flank of the American army. The republican general, however, received intelligence of this movement about noon, and, as it usually happens in similar cases, the reports exaggerated its imp)ortance exceedingly; it being represented that General Howe commanded this division in person. Washington therefore decided immediately for the mlost j udicious, though boldest measure; this was, to pass the river with the centre and left wing of his army, and overwhelm Knyphausen by the most furious attack. He justly reflected that the advantage he should obtain upon the enemy’s right would amply compensate the loss that his own might sustain at the same time. Accordingly he ordered General Sullivan to pass the Brandyvwine withl his division at an upper ford, and attack the left of Knyphlausen, while lie, in person, should cross lower down and fall upon the right of the general. They were both already in motion in order to execute this design, when a second report arrived, which represented what had really taken place as false, or in other words, that the enemy had not crossed the two branches of the river, and that he had not made his appearance upon the right flank of the American troops. Deceived by this false intelligence, Washington desisted; and Greene, who had already passed with the vanguard, was ordered back. In the midst of these uncertainties, the commander-in-chief at length received positive assurance, not only that the English had appeared upon the left bank, but also that they were about to fall in great force upon the right wing. It was composed of the brigades of generals Stephens, Sterling, and Sullivan; the first was the most advanced, and consequently nearest to the English; the two others were posted in the order of their rank, that of Sullivan being next to the centre. This general was immediately detached fromn the main body, to support the former brigades, and being the senior officer, took the command of the whole wing. Washington himself, followed by General Greene, approached with two strolig divisions towards this wing, and posted himself between it and the corps he had left at Chadsford, under General Wayne, to oppose the passage of Knyphausen. These two divisions, under the immediate orders of the commander-in-chief, served as a corps of reserve, ready to march, according to circumstances, to the succor of Sullivan or of Wayne. But the column of Cornwallis was aready in sight of the Americans. Sullivan drew up his troops on the commanding ground above Birminghamn meetinghouse, with his left extending towards the Brandywine, and both his flanks covered with very thick woods. His artillery was advantageously planted upon the neighboring hills; but it appears that Sullivan’s own brigade, having taken a long circuit, arrived too late upon the field of battle, and had not yet occupied the position assigned it, when the action commenced. The English having reconnoitred the dispositions of the Americans, immediately formed, and fell upon them with the utmost impetuosity. The engagement became equally fierce on both sides about 4 o’clock in the afternoon. For some length of time the Americans defended themselves with great valor, and the carnage was terrible. But such was the emulation which invigorated the efforts of the English and Hessians, that neither the advantages of the situation, nor a heavy and well supported fire of small arms and artillery, nor the unshaken courage of the Americans, were able to resist their 4 8’t

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. impetuosity. The light infantry, chasseurs, grenadiers, and guards threw them selves with such fury into the midst of the republican battalions, that they were forced to give way. Their left flank was first thrown into colnfusionl, but the rout soon became general.

The vanquished fled into the woods in their rear; the victors pursued, and advanced by the great road towards Dilworth. On the first fire of the artillery, Washington, having no doubt of what was passing, had pushed forward the reserve to the succor of Sullivan. But this corps, on ap proachling the field of battle, fell in with the flying soldiers of Sullivan and per ceived that no hope remained of retrieving the fortune of the day. General Greene, by a judicious manceuvre, opened his ranks to receive the fugitives, and after their passage having closed them anew, hlie retired in good order; checking the pursuit of the enemy by a continual fire of the artillery which covered his rear. Having come to a defile, covered on both sides by the woods, hlie drew up his men there, and again faced the enemy. His corps was composed of Vir ginians and Pennsylvanians; they defended themselves with gallantry; the former especially, commanded by Colonel Stephens, made a heroic stand.

Knyphlausen finding the Americans to be fully engaged on their right, and ob serving that the corps opposed to him at Chladsford was enfeebled by the troops which had been detached to the succor of Sullivan, began to make dispositions for crossing the river in reality. The passage at Chadsford was defended by an intrenclhment and battery. The republicans stood firm at first; but upon intelligence of the defeat of their right, and seeing some of the British troops who had penetrated through the woods, come out upon their flank, they retired in disorder, abandoning their artillery and munitions to the German general. In their retreat, or rather flight, they passed behind the position of General Greene, who still defended himself; and was the last to quit the field of battle.

Finally, it being already dark, after a long and obstinate conflict, he also retired. The whole army retreated that night to Chester, and the day following to Plhiladelphia. There the fugitives arrived incessantly, having effected their escape through by-ways and circuitous routes. The victors passed the night on the field of battle. If darkness had not arrived seasonably, it is very probable that the whole American army would have been destroyed. The loss of the republicans was computed at about 300
killed, 600 wounded, and near 400 taken prisoners. They also lost ten fieldpieces and a howitzer. The loss in the royal army was not in proportion, being something under 500, of which the slain did not amount to one-fiftlh. ADAM POE’S FIGHT WITH THE INDIANS. A REMINISCENCE OF THE

EARLY HISTORY OF PITTSBURG. About the year 1782, six or seven Wyandotte Indians crossed over to the south side of the Ohio River, 50 miles below Pittsburg, and in their hostile excursions among our early settlers killed an old man, whom they found alone in one of the houses which they plundered. The news soon spread among the white people, seven or eight of whom seized their rifles and pursued the marauders. In this party were two brothers named Adam and Andrew Poe, strong and active men, and much respected in the settlement. The Indians had frequently been over before, had sometimes penetrated 20 miles into the country, and had always succeeded in recrossing the river without being overtaken by our people.

The Poes and their companions were, therefore, particularly anxious not to let them escape 4 8,S

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PENNSYLVANIA. on this occasion. They pursued them all night, and in the morning found themselves, as they expected, upon the ri,ght track. The Indians could now be easily followed by the traces left upon the dew. The print of one very large foot was seen, and it was thus known that a famous Indian of uncommion size and strength must be of the party. The track led to the river. Our people followed it (Iirectly, Adam Poe excepted, who feared that they might be taken by surprise, and broke off firom the rest to go along on the edge of the bank, under the cover of trees and bushes, and to fall upon the savages suddenly that hlie might get them between his own fire and that of his companions. At the point where he suspected they were, he saw the rafts, which they were accustomed to push before them whien they swam the river, and on which they placed their blankets, tomllalhawks, and guns. The Indians themselves he could not see, and was obliged to go partly down the bank to get a shot at them. As lie descended, with his rifle cocked, hlie discovered two, the celebrated large Indian and a smaller one, separated froom the others, holding their rifles also cocked in their hands. He took aim at the large one, but his rifle snapped without giving the intended fire. The Indians turned instantly at the sound. Poe was too near them to retreat, and had not time to cock and take aimi again. Suddenly lie leaped down upon them, and caught the large Indian by the clothes on his breast, and the small o)ne by thlrowing an arm round his neck. They all fell together, but Poe was uppermost. Whiile lie was struggling to keep down the large Indian, the small one, at a word spolken by his fellow savage, slipped his neck out of Poe’s embrace, and ran to the raft for a tomahawk. The large Indian at this moment threw his arms about Poe’s body, and held him fast that the other might come and kill him. Poe watched the approach and the descending arm of the small Indian so well that at the instant of the intended stroke he raised his foot, and by a vigorous and skilful blow knocked the tomahawk from the assailant’s hand. At this the large Indian cried out with an exclamation of contempt for the small one. The latter, however, caughlt his tomiahawk again, and approaclhed more cautiously, waving his arm up tand down with mock blows to deceive Poe as to the stroke which was intended to be real and fatal. Poe, however, was so vigilant and active that lihe averted the tomahawk from his head, and received it uponl his wrist, with a considerabl)le wound, deep enough,l to cripple, but not entirely to destroy the use of his hand. In this crisis of peril, hlie made a violent effort, and b)roke loose from the large Indian. He snatched a rifle and shot the small one through the breast as lie ran up a third time with his lifted tomahawk. The large Indian was now on his feet, and, grasping Poe by the shoulder and the leg, hurled him in the air heels over head upon the shore. Poe instantly rose, and a new and more desperate struggle ensued. The bank was slippery, and they fell into the water, where each strove to dclrown the other. Their efforts were long and doubtful, each alternately under and half strangled, till Poe fortunately grasped, with his unwounded hand, the tuft of hair upon the scalp of the Indian, and folced his head into the water; this appeared to be decisive of his fate, for soon lhe manifested all the symptoms of a drowning man bewildered in the moment of death. Poe relaxed his hold, and discovered too late the stratagem. The Indian was instantly upon his feet again, and engaged anew in the fierce contest for life and victory. They were naturally carried further into the stream, and the current, becoming stronger, bore them beyond their depth. They were now compelled to loosen their hold upon each other, and to swim for mutual safety. Botlh sought the shore to seize a gun, but the Indian was the best swimmer, and gained it first. 4S9

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Poe then turned immediately back into the water to avoid a greater danger, meaning to dive, if possible, to escape the fire.

Fortunately for him, the Indian caught up the rifle which had been discharged into the breast of his smaller companion. At this critical juncture, Andrew, his brother, returned in haste, having left the party who had been in pursuit of the other Indians, and who had killed all but one of them, at the expense of three of their own lives. He heard that Adam was in great peril, and alone in the fight with two against him. One of our people, following not far in the rear of Andrew, mistook Adam in the water with his bloody hand for a wounded Indian, and fired a bullet into his shoulder. Adam cried out to his brother to kill the big Indian on the shore, but Andrew’s gun had been discharged and was not again loaded.

The contest was now between the savage and Andrew. Each labored to load his rifle first. The Indian, after putting in his powder, and hurrying his motions to force down the ball, drew out his ramrod with such violence as to throw it some yards into the water. While he ran to pick it up, Andrew gained an advantage, and shot the Indian just as he was raising his gun to his eye for a deadly aim. Andrew then jumped into the river to assist his wounded brother to the shore; but Adam, thinking more of carrying the big Indian home as a trophy than of his own wounds, urged Andrew to go back and prevent the struggling savage from rolling himself into the current and escaping. Andrew, however, was too solicitous for the fate of Adam to allow him to obey, and the Indian, jealous of his honor as a warrior even in death, and knowing well the intention of his white conquerors, succeeded in retaining life and action long enough to reach the current, by which his dead body was carried down beyond the chance of pursuit. This native was the most distinguished among five celebrated brothers belonging to the royal family of the tribe of Wyandottes. Notwithstanding he was engaged in this predatory expedition, he was acknowledged by all to be peculiarly magnanimous for an Indian, and had contributed, more than any other individual, to preserve and extend the practice which was known to prevail in his tribe, that of not taking the lives of prisoners, and of not suffering them to be treated ill. This practice was an honorable distinction for the Wyandottes, as was well understood by the white people who were traders with the Indians, and by those of our early settlers and brethren who had been made prisoners in war. It was a common remark among them, ” If we become the prisoners of the Wyandottes, we shall be fortunate.” The death of this large Indian and of his four brothers, who were all in the party, was more deeply lamented by the tribe, as was afterward learned, than all the other losses sustained during the hostilities carried on between them and us. There was a universal, solemn, and distressing mourning. Adam Poe recovered from his wounds, and gave this adcount in person to James Morrison, Esq., from whom we have received it, and by whom we are assured that it is correct. The courage and enterprise, the suffering and fortitude, the decision and perseverance of the early settlers of this western country, by whose labors we are now so peaceful and happy, ought not to be forgotten, but may well be related from timhe to time to excite in us the spirit of similar virtues, and to teach us how to consider the slight privations which we are, or may be, called to meet. Gratitude is more appropriate to our condition than discontent. 490

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DELAWAR E. Area…………..2,120 Square Miles. Population ill 1860………112,216 Population in 1870,………125,015 THE State of Delaware, one of the original members of the Union, is situated between 38~ 28’ and 39~ 50’ N. latitude, and 75~ and 75~ 45’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Pennsylvania, on the east by Delaware River and Bay (by which it is separated from New Jersey) and the Atlantic Ocean, and on the south and west by Maryland. It is about 96 miles long, from north to south, and 37 miles wide, from east to west. TOPOGRAPHY. The northern part of the State is a fine rolling country, healthy and beautiful; but the southern and central counties are low and generally sandy. The lower part of the State is occupied by a large cypress swamp. Just north of this swamp, is a slight elevation running north and south. It is occupied with swamps, in which rise the waters flowing into the Delaware Bay. This State and the eastern shore of Maryland, lying between the Delaware and Chesapeake bays, form a low peninsula, over which the salt air sweeps with but little to interrupt it. The Delctware River, which washes the eastern shore of the State, has been described. It is the principal stream. The Brandywine, w h ich enters the State from Pennsylvania, on th e north, and flows i n t o the Delaware at Wilmington, is a fine mill stream. Indian River, which flows into the Atlantic in the southern part of the State, is the l a r g e s t stream lying wholly within the limits of Delaware. A num 491

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. ber of creeks flowv into Delaware Bay and the Atlantic, and the Nanticoke and Choptank rivers of Maryland rise in the southwestern part of the State. Delaware Bay is a large arm of the sea, separating the States of Delaware and New Jersey. It is 13 miles wide at its mouth. Cape Hlenlopen, on the southwestern side, is in Delaware; a(nd Cape Mlay, on the northeast side, in New Jersey. The bay is 60 miles long, fiom the capes to the mouth of the Delaware River, and is 25 miles wide at its broadest part. It is considerably obstructed with shoals, which make its navigation difficult in many places. It offers the only harbor between New York and the Chesapeake; and for the purpose of protecting it, the Government has erected, at a cost of over $2,0()0,000, a magnificent breakwater consisting of two sides, extending out from the Delaware shore at Cape Henlopen. The upper side protects the harbor thus formed from floating ice, and the lower side guards it from the violence of the waves of the sea. The breakwater is built of massive stone, and is one of the best in the world. MINERALS. Delaware is almost without mineral resources.

Bog iron ore exists in the southern swamps; and a fine white sand, used in making glass, is found near the head of Delaware Bay. Large quantities of it are shipped to New England. CLIMATE. The sea breeze, which sweeps over the entire State, renders the climate mild and pleasant, as a general rule; but the winters are sometimes severe and trying. The southern and central portions are afflicted with ague and fever, and are consequently unhealthy. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil in the southern portion of the State is sandy; in the centre it consists of a mixture of clay and sand; and in the northern part it is a fine, fertile loam. Since the census of 1860, the State has made great progress in agriculture, and the cultivation of firuit has increased beyond the most sanguine expectations.

The abolition of slavery has drawvn into the State a considerable emigration of snmall farmers from New England, and it is becoming one of the most p)roductive sections of the Union. The peach crop is rarely a failure in 492

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DELAWARE. this State, and its small fruits, melons, and sweet potatoes have made it famous throughout the country. In 1869, there were 637,065
acres of improved, and 367,230 acres of unimproved land in Delaware. The other products for the same year were as follows: Cash value of farms (estimated),……………. $31,426,357 Value of farming implements and machinery (estimated)………………………..$820,000 Number of horses,…… ” asses and mules,. milch cows,. ” young cattle,… “
sheep,…… swine,….. Value of domestic animals,. Bushels of wheat,…… ” rye,…… ” Indian corn,.. ” oats……. peas and beans,..

” potat oes, barley, ” buckwheat,. Pounds of butter,…. cheese,….. “
beeswax and honey, Tons of hay…….. COMMERCE. Delaware has but little direct foreign trade, almost the entire business of the State passing through the ports of Philadelphia and Baltimore. In 1863, the tonnage owned in the State amounted to 25,963. Delaware exports large quantities of fruit to the northern States, together with a considerable quantity of lumber from her swamps. MANUFACTURES. The only manufacturing town in Delaware, is Wilmington; but manufacturing establishments are located in various parts of the State. In 1860, the State contained 564
establishments devoted to manufactures. They employed 6192 hands and a capital of $5,360,000, consumed raw material worth $5,375,000, and yielded an annual product of $9,920,000. The following is a detailed statement of the value of the principal manufactures in 1860: 493 25,160 4,112 24,198

35,340 19,540 51,360 $5,144,706 830,000 35,000 3,200,000 1,723,000 81438

200,000 6,000 12,000 1,430,502 6,579 68,130 30,000

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Cotton goods,……. Woollen goods,……

Leather,……… Steam engines and machinery, Agricultural implements,..

Sawed and planed lumber,.. Flour,………. Boots and shoes,……

Carriages,…….. The railroad cars and gunpowder of Wilmington rank high amongst the products of the State, but no estimates of them are at hand.

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The principal public work in the State is the Canal, extending entirely across the State and connecting Delaware and Chesapeake bays. It is 16 miles long, 66 feet wide at the surface, 10 feet deep, and is provided with two lift and two tide lockls, 100 feet long by 22 feet wide. It was completed in 1829, cost $2,750,000, and affords inland steami communication between Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York.

Near the eastern end of the canal, is the famous “deep cut,” an excavation 90 feet deep, and 6 miles long, through which the canal passes. A railroad from Philadelphia to Baltimore, the main line of the through travel between the North and the South, extends across the northern part of the State. The Delaware Railroad extends from Wilmington through the centre of the State to the lower part of the eastern shore of Maryland. A branch road leads of from the main stem to Easton, Md., and another into the eastern part of Sussex county. Owing to the extreme narrowness of the State, the Delaware road brings every part of it below Wilmington within direct railroad communication with all parts of the Union. In 1868, the State contained 157 miles of completed railroads, constructed at a cost of $5,608,000. The Delaware road, it should be added, connects with steamers for Norfolk at Crisfield, Md., and thus forms the most direct route from Norfolk to Phliladelphia and New York. EDUCATION. There is no regular public school systemn in Delaware, as in the other Middle States. The counties and towns are left to themselves in their efforts to provide public instruction. The State makes an 494 $919,103 156,635 37,240 550,500

90,581 260,000 1,840,000 226,470 608,580 *…..

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DELAWARE. annual appropriation for this purpose, of 50 cents for each pupil in Sussex and Kent counties. and 20 cents for each pupil in Newcastle county. In 1860, there were 256 public schools in the State, with 11,736 pupils. The number is about the same at present. A State Normal School was established in 1866. Besides this, there are two colleges in the State with about 90 students. Delaware College is located at Newark, and St. Ma,y’s College at Wilmington. The schools being closed to colored children, al)olit 24 colored schools have been opened in various parts of the State. Ill 1860, the State contained 114 libraries, of which 64 were public. There were 13 political papers-9 weekly, and 4
semiweekly-and 1 literary paper (a weekly), published in Delaware. They had a total annual circulation of 1,010,776 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.

Delaware maintains its insane, deaf, dumb, and blind, ill the institutions of other States, and has no such establishments of its own. The State is also without a penitentiary. Criminals are confined in the county jails.

Until within a year or two, many offences were punished by whipping at the public whipping-post, and standing in the pillory. As late as the 5th of December, 1868, a scene of this kind occurred at Newcastle. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in Delaware was $846,150. The number of churches was 220. FINANCES. At the beginning of the year 1871, the aggregate indebtedness of the State of Delaware amounted to $1,632,000, anl increaseg9f $176,000 in two years. The State has investments amounting to $1,074,150, which is $224,000 more than it held at the beginning of 1869. The receipts of the Treasury for the year 1870 were $120,577. In 1868, there were 11 National Banks in Delaware, with an aggregate capital of $1,428,185. GOVERNMENT. In this State every free male citizen, 22 years of age, who has resided one year in the State, and for the last month of this year in the 495

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. county, and who has paid a county tax assessed at least 6 months be fore the election, is entitled to vote; but free male citizens between 21 and 22 years of age may vote without paying taxes, provided they have complied with the other conditions. The Government is conducted by a Governor, and Legislature consisting of a Senate (of 9
members) and a House of Representatives (of 21 members),-all elected by the people. The Secretary of State is appointed by the Governor, and serves for 4 years. The AttorneyGeneral is appointed in the same way, and holds office 5 years. The State Treasurer and Auditor are elected by the Legislature for 2 years. The Governor serves for 4 years, and the members of the Legislature for 2 years. The Legislature meets once in two vears.

The Judiciary consists of a Court of Errors and Appeals, Superior Court, Court of Chancery, Orphans’ Court, Court of Oyer and Terminer, Court of General Sessions of the Peace and Jail Delivery, Register’s Court, and Justices of the Peace. The Chancellor is the principal Judge of the State.

Dover, in Kent county, is the capital. For purposes of government, Delaware is divided into three counties, viz: Newcastle, Kent, and Sussex.

HISTORY. The first settlements in this State were made by the Swedes and Finns, in 1627. As we have shown in the sketch of Pennsylvania, they were conquered by the Dutch, in 1655, and turned over to the English when New York passed into their hands, in 1664. Delaware formed a part of the territory granted to William Penn, in 1682; and fromi that time until the Revolution, continued to form a part of Pennsylvania. It was allowed a separate Assembly about the year 1701, but remained subject to the authority of the Governor of Pennsylvania until 1776, when it was granted an independent existence. It adopted a State Constitution, on the 20th of September, 1776, and was received into the Union of the States. The province bore its full share of the burdens of the wars with France; and in the Revolution, the Delaware regiment was known as one of the most efficient in the army. On the 7th of December, 1787, the State ratified the Constitution of the United States; and in 1792, a new State Constitution was adopted. In 1865, slavery was abolished in the State by the ratification of an 496

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DELAVWARE. amendment to the Federal Constitution. The number of slaves was 1798 in 1860, but had been considerably reduced by 1865. CITIES AND TOWNS.

Wilmington is the largest town in the State. The other places of importance are, Smyrna, Dover, Newcastle, Delaware City, Seaford, and Lewes. DOVER, The capital of the State, is situated in Kent county, on Jones’ Creek, 5 miles above the Delaware River. It is 50 miles south from Wilmington, and 114 northeast from Washington City. The town is prettily situated on high ground, and is built mostly of brick. The streets are wide and cross each other aIt rightangles, and are prettily shaded with trees. The town contains a fine State House, and the buildings devoted to the public offices, all of which face an open and tastefully ornamented square. The railway from Wilmington to Crisfield, Md., passes through Dover, which is thus brought in communication with all parts of the State.

There are several flourishing schools in Dover, 4 churches, and 1
newspaper office. Many of the residences are handsome and attractive. In 1870, the population was 1913. WILMINGTON, The largest and most important city of the State, is situated in Newcastle county, on Christiana Creek, just above its julnction with the Brandywine, and within 2 miles of the Delaware River. It is 28 miles southwest of Philadelphia, and 108 miles northeast of Washington City. It is built on the southern slope of a hill, the summit of which is 110 feet above tidewater. The upper portions of the city command excellent views of the Delaware River and thesurrounding country. The general plan of Wilmington is regular, with wide, straight streets intersecting each other at rightangles. The buildings are principally of brick, and give to the city a substantial air, which is being greatly improved of late by the frequent introduction of stone in the more modern edifices. The principal business thoroughfare is Marklet street, about a mile in lengthl. It extends from the Christiana to the Brandywine, intersects the other streets at righlt-angles, tand crosses each of the creeks named b-)y a handsome bridge. Street railways connect the principal points of the city. 32~~~~~~~~~ 32 497

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. 0 PEACII FARM.f Tile Public Buildings are the Towi Hall, the Custon1 l-ouse, a fine granite structure, and the Institute. The Roman Catholic College, about 10 public schools, and 7 or 8 private schools constitute the educational establishments. The Institute contains a spacious hall, a scientific lecture-room, and a library of over 8000
volumes. The city also contains a large hospital, an almshouse, and about 30 churches; is supplied with pure water from the Brandywine, and is lighted with gas. It has a well organized police force, and a steam fire department. It is governed bv a Mayor and Council. Five newp.lapers are published here. Wilmington is accessible to steamers and ships, and is connected with Philadelphia and Baltimore by railway. It is also the northern terminus of the Delaware Railway. It is a place of considerable trade, and is also largely engaged in manufactures. The principal of these are iron steamboats, railway cars, steam engines, railroad wheels, locomotive and car springs, mill machinery, other iron goods, powder, carriages, flour, leather, shoes, cotton and woollen goods, and agricultural implements. The famous powder works of the Duponts are 498

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DELAWARE. situated about 2 miles fromi the city. In 1870, the population of the city was 30,841. Wilmington occupies the site of Fort Christiana and the village b)uilt back of it, which the Dutch called Christianliam.

After the surrender of the Dutch possessions on the Delaware, it was called Altona. The town was first laid out in 1732, by Thomas Willing, and was called Willing Town, which name was afterwards changed to Wilmington.

In 1777, it was occupied by the British. In 1809, it was chartered as the “Borough of Wilmington;” and in 1832, it was incorporated as a city. The other towns of the State stand as follows, in respect to population: Smnyrna, 2110 inhabitants; Newcastle, 1766; Delaware City, 1545; Seaford, 1308; Lewes, 1090. 499

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PART IV. THE SOUTHERN STATES.

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3,,I M A R YLAN.D. P.’………….. 9),3)6 S(luare Miles.* Population ill 1S60,…….. (3 )7,A)49 Population in 1870,………780,894 THE State of Maryland, one of the original members of the Union, is situated between 38~ and 39~ 44’ N. latitude, and 75~ 10’ and 79~ 20’ Al. longitude. It is 190 miles long from east to west in the extreine northern part, and 120
imiles wide from north to south ill the extreme eastern part. Its width, however, varies greatly in different localities. It is bounded on the north by Pennsylvania, oil the east by Delaware, on the south by Virginia and West Virginia, and on the west by West Virginia. It is separated from the two Virginias on the south by the Potomac River. The District of Colunmbia, the seat of the Federal Government, lies on the bankls of the Potomac, in the southwestern part of the State, and originally formed a part of the State of Maryland. TOPOGRAPHY. The Chesapeake Bay divides the State into two unequal portions, called the Eastern and Western Shore. The Western Shore is about t~wice the size of the Eastern, and comprises the mnore important part of the State. The Eastern Shore is mostly level, or at the best slightly rolling. The surface of the Western Shore rises as it recedes from the bay, and west of Baltimore is rugged and mountainous. The Alleghany Mountains cross the State in the western part, and are known as the Southeast Mountain, Sugar Loaf Mountain, Catoctin, Blue Ridge, Kittatinny, Rugged Moulntain, and Will’s Mountain. * This estimnate is exclusive of the area occupied by the Bay. Including the Chesapeake, the area of the State is about 11,124 square miles. 503

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The State is not over 6 or 7 miles wide in the greater part of this re gion, but it is rich in magnificent scenery. The Chesapeake Bay lies in the eastern part of the State, and di vides it, as we have stated, into two unequal portions. It receives the waters of the Susquehanna at its head, the Elk, Chester, Sassafras, Choptank, and Nanticoke rivers from the Eastern Shore, and the Patapsco, Patuxent, and Potomac from the Western. The bay is about 200 miles long, and for 120
miles lies entirely in Maryland. The lower part, fromnt the mouth of the Potomac, lies in Virginia. Its northern point is called Cape Charles, and its southern Cape Henry. The widthl between these capes is 12 miles. Above this the bay varies in width from 10 to 40 miles. Its shores are thickly studded with inlets, many of which are fine harbors. It is navigable for the largest ships nearly to its head, and for steamers into the Susquehanna. It is one of the most beautiful sheets of water in the world.

After passing the southern boundary of Maryland, it receives the waters of the Rappahannock, York, and Jamnes rivers, of Virginia, on its western side. It connects Alexandria, Norfolk, and Richmond, in Virginia, Washington City, in the District of ColUimbia, and Baltimore, in Maryland, with the sea. An immense trade is carried on over its waters. The Chesapeake is famous for the abundance and variety of the game which it firnishes. Its oysters are world-renowned, and seem inexhaustible. The bay and inlets abound in a variety of the finest fish and terrapin, and other salt-water delicacies are found all along its shores. These waters supply the principal markets of the Eastern States with such delicacies. “There is,” says Dr. Lewvis, in the “American Sportsman,” “no place in our wide extent of country where wild fowl shooting is followed with so much ardor as on the Cliesapeake Bay and its tributaries, not only by those who make a comfortable living from the business, but also by gentlemeli weho resorit to these waters from all parts of the adjoining States to participate iI the enjoyments of this far-famed ducking ground. All species of wild fowl come here in numbers beyond credence, and it is really necessary for a stranger to visit the region if he wvishes to form a just idea of the wonderftll multitudes and numberless varieties of ducks that darken these waters, and hover in interminable flocks over these famed feeding grounds. It is not, however, the variety or extraordinary numbers of ducks on the Chesapeake that particularly attract the stops of so many shooters to these parts, as there are other rivers 504

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MARi YiA N.0 OYSTER FISHING. and streams equally accessible where wild fowl also abound. But the great magnet that makes these shores the centre of attraction, is the presence of the far-famed Canivass-Back, that here alone acquires its peculiar delicacy of flavor, while feeding upon the shores and flats of these waters.” “The canvass-backs,” says Dr.

Sharpless, of Philadelphia, in a paper contributed to “Audubon’s Birds of America,” “pass up and down the bay, from river to river, in their morning and evening flights, giving, at certain localities, great opportunities for-destruction. Thley pursue, even in their short passages, very much the order of their migratory movements, flying in a line of baseless triangle: and when the wind blows on the points which may lie in their course, the sportsman has great chance of success. These points or courses of the ducks are materially affected by the winds; for they avoid, if possible, an approach to the shore; but when a strong breeze sets them on to these projections of the land, they are compelled to pass within shot, and often over the land itself. In the Susquehanna and Elk rivers there are few of these points for shooting, and there success 505

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. depends on approaching them while on their feeding grounds. After leaving the eastern point at the mouth of the Susquehanna and Tur key Point, the western side of the Elk River, which are both mode rately good for flying shooting, the first place of much celebrity is the Narrows, between Spesutic Island and the western shore. These Narrows are about 3 miles in length, and from 300 to 500 yards in breadth. By the middle of November, the canvass-backs, in particu lar, begin to feed in this passage, and the entrance and outlet, as well as many intermediate spots, become very successful stations. A few miles down the western shore is Taylor’s Island, which is situated at the mouth of the Rumney and Abbey Island, at the mnouthl of Bush River, which are both celebrated for ducks, as well as for swans and geese. These are the most northerly points where large fowl are met with, and projecting out between deep coves, where immense numbers of these birds feed, they possess great advanitages. The south point of Bush River, Legoe’s Point, and Robbins’ and Pickett’s points, iear Gunpowder River, are famous localities. Immediately at the mouth of this river is situated Carroll’s Island, which has long been known as a great shooting ground. Maxwell’s Point, as well as some others up other rivers, and even further down the bay, are good places, but less celebrated than those mentioned. Most of these places are let out as shooting grounds for companies and individuals, and are esteemed so valuable that intruders are severely treated.” Norfolk, Virginia, on the Elizabeth River, at the lower extremity of the bay, is the depot for the receipt and sale of the game taken in the Chesapeake, and there the best purchases can be made. The sport, as all who have joined in it full well know, is not without its difficulties and its dangers. Says the learned doctor from whom we have already quoted: ” Notwithstanding the apparent facilities that are offered of success, the amusement of duck-shooting is probably one of the most exposing to cold and wet; and those who undertake its enjoyment without a courage’screwed to the sticking-point,’ will soon discover that’to one good a thousand ills opp)ose.’ It is, indeed, no parlor sport; for, after creeping through mud and mire, often for hundreds of yards, to be at last disappointed, and stand exposed onl points to the’pelting rain or more than freezing cold,’ for hours, without even the promise of a shot-would try the patience of even Franklin’s’glorious nibbler.’ It is, however, replete with excitement and charmn. To one who can enter on the pleasure with a system formed for polar cold, and a spirit to endlure the weary toil of 506

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MARYLAND. many a stormy day, it will yield a harvest of health and delight that the roamer of the woods can rarely enjoy.” The rivers of the State are little more than arms of the bay. The Patapsco River rises in Carroll county, in the northern part of the State. It flows southward as far as the line of Baltimore and Anne Arundel counties, where it turns to the east, forming the boun dary between those counties, and emptying into the Chesapeake, 14 miles east of Baltimore City. It is about 80 miles long.

Until it reaches the border of Anne Arundel county, it flows through a hilly country, and, being broken by numerous falls, forms a fine mill stream. It flows into the bay through a wide estuary about 14 miles long, and 3 miles wide, which is navigable to Baltimore for the largest ships.

The Patuxent River rises about 18 miles southeast of Frederick City, and flowing south-southeast between the counties of Montgomery, Prince George’s, Charles, and St. Mary’s, on the right, and Howard, Anne Arundel, and Calvert, on the left, empties into Chesapeake Bay, through a broad estuary, 3 or 4 miles wide. The river is 90 miles long, and is navigable for about 48 or 50 miles from its mouth. It flows through a fine agricultural region. The Choptank River rises in Kent county, Delaware, and flows into the Chesapeake Bay, between Dorchester and Talbot counties, on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. About 20 miles from its mouth, it spreads out into a broad estuary, 3 or 4 miles wide, which affords some of the finest water scenery in America. It is about 100 miles long, is navigable for steamers for about 40 miles, for sloops for 10 or 15 miles higher, and lies for the greater part in Maryland. The other rivers are the Elk, Sassafras, Chester, Pocomoke, and Nanticoke. These, with the bay itself, cut up the Eastern Shore into so many inlets that vessels can lie alongside the shores of the majority of the farms in that part of the State and receive the crops on board. Keitt Island, in Chesapeake Bay, opposite Annapolis, forms a part of Queen Anne’s county, and is famous as having been the site of the first English settlement in the State.

MINERALS. Coal and iron are found in large quantities in the western part of the State, and of the very best qualities. Copper is found in Frederick and Carroll counties, where important mines are located. Cobalt is found along the Patapsco, and traces of nickel have been discovered 507

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. in some of the copper mines. Lignites occur in quantities in Anne Arundel county, mixed with amber and iron pyrites.

Alum, porcelain-clay, lime, chrome, manganese, magnesia, barytes, marble, marl. and ochres are also found, and gold has been discovered. CLIMATE.

Lying between the Northern and Southern States, Maryland does not share the extremes of the temperature of either section, but possesses a climate noted for its evenness and mildness. The breezes from the bay sweep over the greater part of the State, and add much to this effect. The country along the bay and its tributaries, however, is sickly, being afflicted with chills and fevers. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil of the eastern shore is sandy in the lower part, but consists of mixtures of clay and sand above the Choptank River. The lands of Talbot county are among the finest in the State. The southern counties of the western shore have also a sandy soil, but that of the other counties is very fertile. That of Frederick county will compare in productiveness with any in the Union. The agriculture of the State is backward. Manures have been but little used, although lime and marl exist in considerable quantities in the State. A change for the better has taken place of late, however. The abolition of slavery has opened the way for the small farmers of New England and the Middle States, who are settling in the State, especially upon the eastern shore, in great numbers. Great attention is being paid to the growing of fruits, to which this State is peculiarly adapted. Large quantities of peaches and small fruits are annually sent to northern markets. Tobacco also forms an important staple. The land is easily brought to a high state of fertility, and in the eastern countres the winters are short and mild.

Horses in the sandy counties do not require to be shod, and many of the farms having water boundaries need little or no fencing. In 1869 there were about 3,002,269 acres of improved, and 1,833,306 acres of unimproved land in the State. The other products for the same year may be stated as follows: Number of horses,…………..99,112 * 4 asses and mules,…….

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MIARYLAND. Number of young cattle,.. sheep,…. swine,. Value of domestic animals,. Bushels of wheat,… ” rye….. Indian corn,. oats…… peas and beans,. ” potatoes,… ” barley,….. ” buckwheat,.. Hhds of tobacco…. Pounds of wool (estimated), butter,….. ” cheese,…. Tons of hay,…….. COMMERCE. Baltimore is the chief commercial city of the State, and is actively engaged in an important trade with the Southern and WTestern States, and with Europe. The tonnage owned in the State in 1863
was 288,860. During the same year the exports of the State amounted to $12,089,072, and the imports to $4,484,399. The coal of this State is coming into considerable prominence as fiuel for steamers, and an important trade is carried on with all parts of the world in canned fruits, vegetables, oysters, etc., prepared in the Bay counties and in Baltimore. MANUFACTURES. Maryland is extensively engaged in manufactures.

In 1860 there were 2980 establishments in the State devoted to manufactures, millning, and the mechanic arts. They employed a capital of $51,800,000, and 40,900 hands, consumed raw material worth $21,900,000, and returned an annual product of $43,000,000. The value of the principal manufactures for 1860 was as follows: Cotton goods,……. Woollen goods……. Leather,……… Pig-iron,……… Rolled iron,….. Steam engines and machinery,. Agricultural implements…. Sawed and planed lumber,?. Flour……….. 509 170,110 160,211 398,120 $15,667,853

7,733,000 182,000 12,300,000 7,100,000 39,407 1,050,000 24,000 150,000

25,000 500,000 5,265,29,5 8,342 191,000 $2,796,877 581,955 1,723,033

739,600 556,000 1,285,000 318,980 720,000 8,020,000 …… …… ……

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Copper,…………….. Spirituous and malt liquors,………. Boots and shoes………….

Furniture,…………….. Soap and candles,…………. INTERNAL

IMPROVEMENTS. Miaryland was one of the first States in the Union to engage in internal improvements. Her first effort was to build the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, between Washington City and Cumberland. This work cost her over $7,000,000, but has never been a source of profit to her. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, extending from Baltimore across the mountainls to the Ohio River, at Wheeling, West Va., is one of tIle most important lines in the Union, and was the first ever opened iii this country for purposes of general travel. Baltimore is connected with all the important towns of the State, and with all parts of the Union. In 1868
the State contained 522 miles of completed railroads (including a few miles in the District of Columbia), constructed at a cost of $30,574,000.

The total length of canals in the State is about 200 miles. EDUCATION.

Until recently the public school system of Maryland was not in keeping with the traditional enterprise and public spirit of the State. Since the close of the war, however, the system has been reorganized and established upon a much better plan. The supervision of schools is rested in a State Board, County Boards, and School District Boards. The State Board consists of four mnembers, appointed by the Governor. The principal of the State NTormal School is ex-oficio a member of this board. The State Board has the general control of the educational system of the State. Each county is in charge of a Board of County School Commissioners, appointed by the judges of the Circuit Court, and consisting of three members. Each District Board consists of three persons, appointed by the County School Commissioners. The County Commissioners appoint County Examiners, who have power to grant to teachers, after examination, certificates of two grades, which are good for three years, but no longer. A State tax of 10 cents on each one hundred dollars of taxable property throughout the State is to be levied annually for the support ~f the shools. 510 $60,000 571,927

1,244,167 626, 154 433,345 ‘k

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MARYLAND. The State LNormal School is located in Baltimore, and was opened in January, 1866. In September, of the same year, a Model School was added to it. A liberal provision is made for a system of colored schools thoughout the State. The schools of the city of Baltirtmore are distinct from those of the State, and are controlled by the municipal authorities.

They have long been noted for their excellence. The school system in the city is of far older date than that of the State. In 1870 Maryland contained 1347 public schools, exclusive of those of Baltimore City, attended by 75,402 children. The total amount expended upon the public schools in the same year was $751,310. The principal collegiate institutions are Waslington College, at Chestertown; St. Jolhn’s College, at Annapolis; St. Mary’s College, at Baltimore; St. Charles’s College, at Ellicott’s Mills; Mount St. Mary’s College, at Eimmittsburg; the College of St. James, in Waslhington county; St. John’s College, at Frederick City; St. Mary’s Theological Seminary, at Baltimore; the Medical School of the Uniiversity of Maryland, Washington Medical College, the College of Dental Surgery, and Baltimore Female College, at Baltimore; and the State Agricultural College, in Prince George’s county. They are all prosperous.

During the war some of them were temporarily closed, but all are again in operation. The State supports the Agricultural College, and assists St.

John’s College, at Annapolis, Washington College, at Chestertown, and the Baltimore Female College, at Baltimore City. There were in Maryland, in 1860, about 130 libraries, containing between 130,000 and 140,000 volumes.

In the same year the number of newspapers and periodicals published in the State was as follows: daily 6, triweekly 2, weekly 49total 57-all political. In the same year several literary and religious papers were published in the State. The political journals had an aggregate annual circulation of 20,721,472 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The city of Baltimore is well provided with penal and charitable establishments of its own. Those of the State are the Penitentiary and the Hospital for the Insane. The Jlciyland Peniteitiary is located at Baltimore. Extensive additions have been made to its buildings, of late, but there is still a 511

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. deficiency in the accommodations provided for the prisoners. In November, 1867, the number of inmates was 679. The JIaryland Hospital fo the tInsane, at Baltimore, is an excellent institution, and is liberally supported by the State. In January, 1868, it contained 113
patients. Two classes are received hereState patients, and those who pay their own expenses. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in Maryland was $5,516,1 50. The number of churches was 1016.

FINANCES. In 1870, the public debt of the State was $13,317,475. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending September 30th, 1870, were $2,522,478, and the expenditures $2,4:75,069. In 1868, there were 32

National Banks, with a total capital of $12,790,202, doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. In this State every male citizen of the United States, twentyone years old, who has resided one year in the State and six lmonths in the county, is entitled to vote at the elections. The first Constitution of Maryland was adopted in August, 1776. It has been changed several times, the present Constitution having been adopted in 1867. The Government is vested in a Governor (elected by the people for four years), a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 24 members, elected for four years, onehalf going out of office every two years), and House of Delegates (of 86 members, elected for two years),: Comptroller, and Treasurer, elected for two years, a Secretary of State, and an AttorneyGeneral and Superintendent of Labor and Agricultutre, elected for four years. The Governor, Legislature, Comptroller, Attorniey-General, and Superintendent of Labor are chosen by the people, the Treasurer by the Legislature, and the Secretary of State and other officers appointed by the Governor and confirmed by the Senate. No person holding an office under the United States, and no minister of the gospel is eligible to a seat in either house. The Legislature meets biennially. The general election is held in November. The Coutrt of Ap)peals consists of the Chief Judges of the first seven judicial districts of the State, and a judge from the city of Baltimrore, 512

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MARYLAND. vwho is specially elected for that purpose. The Chief Justice is nominated by the Governor and confirmed by the Senate. Four of the judges constitute a quorum, but a decision cannot be rendered without the concurrence of at least three. The judge who tried the cause ill the lower court, is not allowed to participate in the decision in this court. The court has appellate jurisdiction only, but that in all parts of the State.

The other courts are the Circuit Courts of the counties, Orphans’ Courts, and Justices’ Courts, held by justices of the peace. Besides these are the several courts-Superior, Circuit, and Criminal  of Baltimore City.

Annapolis, in Anne Arundel county, is the capital. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 22 counties. HISTORY. The first settlement in the State was made on Kent Island, in Chesapeake Bay, in the year 1631, by Captain William Clayborne, with a party of men from Virginia. Onl the 20th of June, the terri tory of Terra Marise, or Mary’s Land, so named in honor of Queen Henrietta MIaria of England, was granted by Charles I. to Cecilius Calvert, second Lord Baltimore. Calvert sent out a colony in two vessels, the Ark and the Dove, in November, 1633. This expedition reached St. Clement’s Island on the 25th of March, 1634, and on the 27th founded the settlement of St. Mary’s (in what is now St. Mary’s county), on the mainland. The expedition was composed mainly of Catholic gentlemen, their families, and followers, and was in charge of Leonard Calvert, the brother of Lord Baltimore, who was appointed Governor. As soon as the colony was firmly established, other emigrants came from England in considerable numbers, and Clayborne, having refused to submit to the authority of the Governor, was driven from Kent Island. The Indians gave the settlers some trouble, but were promptly made to keep the peace.

The first Legislative Assembly met in 1639. In 1642, a band of Puritans, expelled from Virginia for refusing to conform to the worship of the Church of England, settled in Maryland, and were not long in giving evidences of their determination to disregard the authority of the rightful government of the province. Clayborne also came back and regained possession of Kent Island. The Governor made an effort to expel him, but hlie and his followers, aided by the Puritan settlers, not only defeated this effort, but seized 33 513

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the government of the province, and forced Calvert to fly into Virginia, in 1644. Clayborne held the control of affairs until 1646, when Calvert entered the province at the head of a considerable force, and reestablished the authority of the proprietary. In 1649, the Assembly enacted this wise statute: “Whereas the enforcing of the conscience in matters of religion hlath frequently fallen out to be of dangerous consequences in those Commonwealths where it has been practised, and for the more quiet and peaceful government of this Province, and the better to preserve mutual love and amity among the inhabitants, no person within this Province, professing to believe in Jesuts Christ, shall be anyways troubled, molested, or discountenanced for his or her religion, or in the free exercise thereof.” The Puritans gave great trouble to the colony. They had founded the town of Providence, which was afterwards called Annapolis, and were centred mainly in that part of the State.

Finally they were granted the county of Charles. Upon the establishment of the Commionwealtli in England, they insisted that the colony ought to submit to it, but the authorities proclaimed Charles II. When the Assembly met again, it was found that the Puritans were largely in excess of the followers of the Proprietary. In 1652, the Commissioners sent out from England by the Parliament arrived, and completely established the authority of the Commonwealth. Governor Stone, the representative of Lord Baltimore, was removed. One of the Commissioners referred to was no other than Clayborne, the old enemy of Lord Baltimore. IKent Island was given up to him, and he was also assigned Palmer Island, at the month of the Susquehanna River. In 1654, Lord Baltimore made a vigorous attempt by force of arms to regain his rights. A bitter contest was begun, and continued with alternate success and failure until March 25th, 1655, when Lord Baltimore’s forces made an attack on Providence (Annapolis), and were repulsed with terrible slaug,hter by the Puritans, the whole force being killed or captured. Governor Stone was among the prisoners, all of whom were condemned to death. It is known that at least four of them were executed. The Puritans continued to hold the government until 1657, when Lord Baltimore’s rights were restored, and his brother Philip Calvert appointed Governor. His family continued to hold the government until 1688, when William and Mary, having come to the throne of England, assumed the control of the Province. Froml this time the Governor was appointed by the Crown, until 1714, when Benedict Charles Calvert, the lineal heir of the first pro 514

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MARYLAND. prietor, was granted the government again. Unlike the rest of his familily, he was a Protestant, which was the cause of his succession to his hereditary rights. In 1691, the seat of government was transferred to Providence, the name of which was changed to Annapolis. In 1695, a post route, the first in America, was established from the Potomac, through Anna polis, to Philadelphia. In 1729, the town of Baltimore was founded, Frederick City in 1745, and Georgetown (now in the District of Columbia) ill 1751. By 1756 the population of the colony had in creased to 154,188
souls, of whom over 40,000 were negroes. The colony also increased in material prosperity. By the year mentioned above, the annual export of tobacco was 30,000 hogsheads, and, in spite of the efforts of the home government to prevent it, there were 8 furnaces and 9 forges for smelting copper in operation in the province. During the wars with France, Maryland contributed liberally to the common cause. Between 1754 and 1758, her western frontier sufLiered severely from the savages, whose outrages were stopped only by the capture of Fort Duquesne. The colony offered a spirited resistance to the injustice of the home Government, and promptly made common cause in this matter with the other provinces. The outbreak of the Revolutionl caused the overthrow of the proprietary government, which patriotically submitted to the necessity, and in August, 1776, a Convention of the people adopted a State Constitution, which went into immediate operation. The State made liberal contributions of men and money for the maintenance of the war. The “Maryland Line” won a name in this struggle, which is one of the mnost precious legacies they have left to their children. Congress assembled at Baltimore, and afterwards at Annapolis, towards the close of the war, and it was at the latter place that Washington resigned his commission, on the 23l of Decenmber, 1783.

Upon the close of the war, great and successful efforts were made to settle the western part of the State. Maryland ratified the Federal Constitution April 28th, 1788. During the war of 1812, the shores of the Chesapeake Bay were brutally ravaged by a British fleet commanded by Admiral Cockburn. Frenchtown, Havre de Grace, Frederictown, and Georgetown were sacked and burned. The militia of the State were defeated at Bladensb)ur, where they attempted to arrest the march of the British upon Washington City, in 1814. They repulsed the same force at 515

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. North Point, near Baltimore, onil the 13th of September, 1814, and killed the British Commander, General Ross; and on the 14th repulsed the attack of the enemy’s fleet upon Fort McHenry, which protected the entrance to the city of Baltimore. When the question of establishing a seat of Government was brought up, near the close of the last century, Maryland granted to the United States 60 square miles of her territory, lying near the falls of the Potomac. Virginia united with her, and added enough of her own territory to make the grant consist of 100
square miles. The offer was accepted by the United States, and the District of Columbia was erected. The seat of Government was transferred to it in 1800. At the outbreak of the late war, it was generally supposed that Maryland would secede from the Union, and join the other States of the South in their attempt to establish a new Confederacy. This course would undoubtedly have been pursued, had the State been fiee to act as it wished; but at the first opening of the struggle, it was promptly occupied by the forces of the General Government. During the war, it was nominally allowed to control its own affairs, but was really held down by force until the cessation of hostilities. It was invaded three times by a Confederate army, and, with the District of Columbia, formed the base from which the operations of the Federal Army of the Potomac were conducted.

The battles of South Mountain and Antietam, or Sharpsburg, and Monocacy Bridge, near Frederick City, were fought in the western part of the State; and Maryland Heights, opposite Harper’s Ferry, on the Potomac, bore a prominent part in the military operations around that place. Raiding parties entered the State repeatedly from Virginia, penetrating upon one occasion beyond Baltimore, and a number of minor conflicts occurred between these parties and detachments of the Union army. During the war, the State furnished a considerable force to the army and navy of the United States; but a much larger number of native Marylanders crossed the Potomac and entered the Southern army. Slavery was abolished by a State Convention in 1864. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the most important cities and towns in the State are, Baltimore, Frederick, Cumberland, Cambridge, Easton, and Chestertown. 516

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MARYLAND5 ANNAPOLIS, The capital of the State, is situated in Anne Arundel county, on the south or right bank of the Severn River, 2 miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay. It is beautifully located in full view of the bay, of which it commands extensive and picturesque views. It is 30
miles south by east from Baltimore, and 37 miles east by north from WVashington. It is one of the oldest towns in the country, and bears marks of its antiquity on every hand. The buildings are generally in the style of a century ago, though the city contains many handsome modern edifices.

As a rule the town is well built. The plan of the city bears some resemblance to that of the National Capital, all of the streets radiating from two points, the State House and the Episcopal church. The city bears ample evidence of the wealth and prosperity which it once possessed in many ancient and extensive mansions, with large ranges of offices and stables, now gone to decay, and in some cases uninhabited. The State House stands near the centre of the city, and is a venerable edifice of brick, with a lofty dome and cupola. It is situated in a small park on the highest point of the city, and contains the halls of the Legislature, the offices of the Governor and Secretary of State, and the State Library. The hall now occupied by the State Senate was used for the sessions of the Continental Congress near the close of the Revolution, and it was here that Washington resigned his commission as Commander-in-Chief of the American armies. The hall is now ornamented with a large painting commemorating that event. It is from the pencil of Mr. Edwin White, of New York. To the east of the State House stands the official mansion of the Governor of Maryland, who is obliged to reside here during his term of office. Annapolis is lighted with gas, but many of the buildings still use oil lamps. It is connected with Baltimore and Washington City by a railway, and with the former city by a line of steamers. It was formerly a place of considerable trade, but is now important only as the capital of the State. It contains 6 churches, and 2 newspaper offices, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 5744. The city is well supplied with public and private schools. St. John’s College is a flourishing institution, supported in part by the State. It was closed during the civil war, but is now in a fair way to regain its former prosperity. 517

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. Annapolis is the seat of the Naval Academy of the Utited States, established during the administration of President Polk, the Hon. Geo. Bancroft being Secretary of the Navy. It is located in the northeast part of the city, immediately on the shore ofthe Severn, and is designed for the education and training of officers of the United States Navy. Annapolis was founded about 1649, and was at first called Providence. The events of its early history have been already related in the sketch of the history of the State. Iin 1708 it was chartered as a city, and named Annapolis, in honor of Queen Anne, who had bestowed several valuable presents upon the towni. It was for many years the most important city in Maryland, but was at length surpassed by Baltimore, to whichl city its large trade was transferred. BALTIMORE, The largest and most important city of the State, and the sixth city of the United States, is situated in Baltimore county, on the north side of the Patapsco River, about 12 miles from its entrance into Chesapeake Bay. It is 38 miles northeast from Washington, 98 miles southwest from Philadelphia, and 200
miles from the ocean by the course of the Chesapeake. The city is built partly along the river shore, and partly along a range of hills overhanging the Patapsco and commanding distant views of the bay. Below Baltimore the river widens into a broad estuary, several miles in width.

Some portions of the city are 100 feet above tide water, and the view of Baltimore from the river is very beautiful and attractive. This rolling character of the ground enables the city to provide the best system of sewerage in the country, and does much to render Baltimore a remarkably clean city. “Perhaps no city in the United States has such a picturesque sight as Baltimore, covering as it does a number of eminences, which, however inconvenient they may be for the residents, furnish a pleasant variety for the stranger. If the visitor ascends the Washington Monument, in the northern part of the city, on a hill, itself 100 feet above tide, he has one of the finest panoramas furnished by any city in the Union.

Immediately beneath and around him are some of the most capacious streets, lined with residences rarely equalled in elegance, size, and position. To the north and northwest are the newer and finer buildings, constituting the fashionable part of the city, vwhiile to the south lies the great centre of trade; a little to the southeast is the harbor, and beyond it Federal HIill; while far in the 513

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MARYLIAND. BATTLE MON’UMENT. distance, but nearly in the same direction, stretches the beautiful arm of the bay on which Baltimore stands. To the east and southeast, across Jones’ Falls (a small creek which divides the city into two portions), lie the Old Town and Fell’s Point; and to the west the newer portions, which are extending rapidly. The view is varied by the dome of the Catholic cathedral, the Unitarian church, and the Exchange, by the Shot-tower, by the Battle Monument, and by the steeples and towers of the various churches scattered in all directions; the whole girt on the northwest and east by beautiful hills crowned with a natural growth of trees. Although the site of the city is such as to cause irregularity in some of the streets, the different sections are laid out with great uniformity. Baltimore street, the fashionable promenade, and seat of the retail and jobbing business, divides the city into two nearly equal portions, the larger part lying to the north. Charles street, crossing this at right angles, also divides the city into two nearly equal parts, the portion called North Charles street being mostly occupied with elegant residences, and South Charles street, between Baltimore and Lomrnbard streets, with extensive wholesale warehouses. 519

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. “From the number and prominence of its monuments, Baltimore has been denominated the’ Monumental City.’ The most remarkable of these is the Washington Monument, standing in a small, open area at the intersection of Charles and Monument streets. Its base, 50 feet square and 20 high, supports a doric column 17621 feet in height, which is surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington, 16 feet high, giving its summit an elevation of 31221 feet above the level of the harbor. The shaft, 20 feet square at the base, and 14 at the top, is ascended by means of a winding stairway within. The whole is con structed of white marble, and cost $200,000. Battle Monument, also a beautiful structure of marble, is situated in Monument Square, in Calvert street, near Lexington street.

From the base, which is square and ornamented with various devices, rises a facial column, 18 feet high, on the bands of which are inscribed the names of those who fell while defending the city from the attack of the British, September 12th, 1814. This is surmounted by a beautiful statue of the Goddess of Liberty, 721 feet high, making the entire height of the monument 521 feet. Another object of much interest to strangers is the Mer chants’ Shot-tower, the highest, it is said, in the world, having an elevation of 246 feet.” The public buildings are handsome. The City Hall, on Hiolliday street, is a magnificent building of white marble, covering an entire square; the U. S. Court House, on Fayette street, is a fine granite structure; and the U. S. Custom ilouse and Post 0ffice, on Lombard and Gay streets, the City Jail, the Maryland and Peabody Institutes, the latter of white marble, and the Masonie Hall, also of white marble, are imposing structures. The depots of the Baltimore and Ohio and the Northern Central Railways are among the handsomest buildings of the city. There are also many elegant buildings of stone, iron, and marble, used for mercantile purposes, which must be included among the ornaments of the city. Many of the churches are also worthy of notice in this connection. The educational, literary, and scientific institutions of Baltimore have always been amongst the best in the land. The public schools were famous when those of the other large American cities were striving for the excellence they have since attained. In 1870, the city contained 119 schools, attended by 23,913 pupils. In the same year the city paid $26,322 for schools for colored children. The private

Lippincott’s Gazetteer. 520

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MARYLAND. schools are numerous, of a high character, and are well attended. The higher schools are the University of Maryland, the Medical Department of which was founded in 1807; Loyola College; the Theological School, formerly connected with St. Mary’s (R. C.) College; the Baltimore College of Pharmacy; and the College of Dental Surgeons. The Peabody Institute, on Charles and Monument streets, is the gift of George Peabody, and is devoted to literary and scientific purposes. It contains a good and growing library, and a gallery of fine arts. The Athanceum, St. Paul and Saratoga streets, contains the Mercantile Library, about 20,000 volumes, and the Baltimore Library, 15,000 volumes. It is also occupied by the Historical Society of JIaryland, which possesses a library of 1000
volumes, and a collection of papers and other relics. An annual exhibition of paintings is held in the rooms of this society. The MVaryland itstitute occupies a large building on Baltimore street near Jones’ Falls. The lower part is used as a market. The upper part is an immense hall, in which an annual exhibition of the mechanic arts is held. It possesses a fine library. The reading room belonging to the Board of Trade is supplied with newspapers from all parts of the world. The benevolent and charitable institutions are the Maryland Hospital for the Insane, situated on a hill in the eastern part of the city; the Mount Hope Institution, for the same purpose, under the charge of the Sisters of Charity; the Baltimore Infirmary, with beds for 300 patients; the Maryland Institution for the Instruction of the Blind; the Church Hlome and Infirmary, connected with the Episcopal Church; the Lintion Protestant Infirmary; the Aged TVomcen’s Home; the Old Men’s Home; the Honie of the Friendless; the House of the Good Shepherd, for the reformation of fallen women; the Almshouse, and four Dispensaries. The prisons and reformatory establishments are the State Penitentiary, the City Jail, a handsome granite structure, and the House of Refutge, for the reformation of juvenile delinquents. The hotels of Baltimore are good. The principal are the City Hotel (Barnum’s), and the Gilmore and Eutaw Houses. Baltimore is very far behind its eastern rivals in many things. The streets are badly paved, cobble stones predominating, and the sidewalks are of brick. While the city contains a large number of magnificent buildings, its principal thoroughfare, Baltimore street, cannot compare with the corresponding streets of either New York, Philadelphia, Boston, Chicago, or St. Louis. In the private portions, the 521

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. BALTIMORE STREET. principal material used is brick, with white marble trimmings. Brown stone is now becoming common in the wealthier sections. The city is noted for the large number of small dwellings which it contains. These furnish homes for the working classes, who live in greater comfort and privacy than in almost any other large city in the world. Few houses contain more than one family. The more fashionable quarters are beautifully built up, and will compare favorably with any city in the country. Street railway lines connect the various parts of tle city. The cars of every line touch Baltimore street below Calvert and above Gay street, and thus bring all points in connection with the business centre. Similar lines connect the city with its principal suburbs. There are between 160 and 170 churches in Baltimore. Some of these are very costly and beautiful. Baltimore is the See of a Roman Catholic Archbisllop, who is the Primate of the United States. The city contains several parks and pleasure grounds. These are Union, Franklin, and Lafayette squares, and Patterson and Druid Hill parks. Patterson Park contains 36 acres, and embraces the 522

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MARYLAND. earthworks thrown up for the defence of the city in the war of 1812. Druid Hill Park contains 550 acres, arnd abounds in fine trees and shrubbery. It is naturally one of the most beautiful of the American parks, and has been greatly improved and ornamented since its purchase by the city. It is situated in the northern suburbs of the city, beyond the extreme end of Madison Avenue. The cemeteries are Greenmount, Loudon Park, Baltimore, Mount Olivet, Mount Carmel, and the Western. Greenmount is very beautiful, and contains many handsome monuments. The theatres of Baltimore are behind those of the other large cities of the Union. The principal are the Holliday Street Theatre and the Concordia Opera House. Baltimore is the terminus of five railway lines, which connect it with all parts of the country. The Baltimore and Ohio Railway is one of the great trunk lines to the West, and one of the finest works in the world. By means of these it conducts an enormous trade with the West, and with the interior of the State of Virginia. Steamboats ply between Baitimore and the principal towns on the Chesapeake Bay and the rivers emptying into it, and a large coasting trade is carried on from this port. A line of firstclass steamers connects the city with the port of Bremen, in Germany, and is bringing a large portion of the emigration from that country through the port of Baltimore. Baltimore enjoys very great facilities for commerce from its situation, and needs but the energy and enterprise of its former days to be a more important commercial city than it is. In 1864, the arrivals at the port of Baltimore, not counting the bay craft, were 1143
steamers, 38 ships, 137 barks, 197 brigs, 1025 schooners, making a total of 2540 vessels. In the same year, the foreign imports of Baltimore were $6,076,300; and the exports were $12,362,448. The registered tonnage for the same year was 45,198; enrolled and licensed, 203,497; making a total of 248,695 tons. By leans of the Baltimore and Ohio and Northern Central Railways, a heavy coal trade is carried on through Baltimore. Large quantities of this are shipped from Locust Point. Baltimore is largely engaged in manufactures, Jones’ Falls furnishilg excellent waterpower.

Some of the largest machine shops in the country are located here. The principal manufactures are cotton and iron goods, machinery, steam engines, agricultural implements, and flour. The city is abundantly supplied with water from Swann Lake and 523

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Jones’ Falls. The water is brought a distance of seven miles to the city reservoirs, which are from 110 to 150 feet above tidewater. The city is lighted with gas of an excellent quality, and is provided with a police and fire alarm telegraph, an efficient police force, and an admirable steam fire department. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 267,354. In the year 1729, the General Assembly of Maryland took meas ures for “erecting a town on the north side of the Patapsco in Balti more county.” The site had been settled as early as 1682, by David Jones, who gave his name to the small stream which now flows through the city of Baltimore, dividing it into “old” and “new” town. On the 12th of January, 1730, a town of 60 acres of land was laid out by the county surveyor and commissioners, and called Balti more in honor of Cecilius Calvert Lord Baltimore. “In the sanme year, William Fell, a ship-carpenter, having purchased a tract east of the falls, called it Fell’s Point, after his own name, which it still bears.

In 1732, a new town of 10 acres in 20 lots, was laid out on the east of the falls, and called Jonestown, in honor of David Jones, the first settler. The name has long been forgotten, and as a settlement existed there before that of Baltimore, it was called’ old town.’ Jonestown was united to Baltimore in 1745, dropping its own name, and two years afterward Baltimore, which properly lay up about the head of the’basin,’

near the foot of the present South Charles street, was extended as far eastwardly as Jones’ Falls, under an express provision that there was nothing in the Act recognizing a right to’elect delegates to the Assembly as representatives from the town.’ This was the earliest manifestation of that singular jealousy, which has ever since been shown in the Legislature by the Maryland county members against the city of Baltimore.” In 1755, Baltimore contained but 25 houses and 200 inhabitants. In 1767, it was made the county seat. In 1769, the first fire engine was introduced. In 1773, William Goddard began the publication of the “Maryland Journal and Baltimore Advertiser.” In the same year a line of stage coaches and a line of sailing packets were established between Baltimore and Philadelphia; and a theatre was built on Albemarle street. In 1775, Baltimore contained 564 houses, and 5934 inhabitants. In 1776, Philadelphia having fallen into the hands of the British, Congress removed to Baltimore, and held its sessions in a building on the southeast corner of Baltimore and Liberty streets. In 1784, the streets were lighted with oil lamps, and 524

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MARYLAND. SCENE ON BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILWAY. 3 constables and 14
watchmen were appointed “for the security of the town.” In 1796, Baltimore was incorporated as a city, the population being about 20,000. In 1800, the population was 26,514. The city was now highly prosperous, and was possessed of a large and thriving trade with all parts of the world. In 1814, it was attacked by the British, who were repulsed at North Point and at Fort McHenry, by both land and water. In 1829, the first public school was opened. In 1813, the first steamboat, called the Chesapeake, was placed upon the line to Philadelphia viad Frenrhtown and Newcastle, Del.

On the 4th of July, 1828, the cornerstone of the great Baltimore and Ohio Railway was laid by the venerable Charles Carroll of Carrollton. During the civil war, the city was occupied by the United States troops. It was the scene of a bloody riot on the 19th of April, 1861. FREDERICK CITY, The second city of the State, is situated in Frederick county, 2 miles west of the MIonocacy River, 65 miles west of Baltimore, and 44 525

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. miles northwest of Washington City. It is 3 miles distant from the main line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, with which it is connected by a branch railway. The city is built chiefly of brick and stone; the streets are broad and straight, and cross each other at rightangles, and are shaded with fine trees. The Court House is a handsome building. Thle town contains the Deaf ancd Dumb Asylum of JIaryland, 11 churches, a college and an academy and several fine schools, both public and private. Two newspapers are published here. Frederick is next to Baltimore in wealth and commercial importance. It lies in the midst of a fine agricultural section, and possesses a considerable trade.

To a limited extent it is engaged in manufactures, leather, iron, wool, paper, and flour being the principal articles produced. It is lighted with gas, is supplied with water, and is provided with a steam fire department.

It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 8526.

CUMBERLAND, The third city of the State with regard to population, is situated in Alleghany county, on the left bank of the Potomac River, 179
miles west-by-north of Baltimore, with which it is connected by the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. It is the eastern terminus of the National Road. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, whose eastern terminus is at Georgetown, D. C., ends here. The town is connected with Pittsburg, Pa., by the Connellsville Railway. It is beautifully located at the foot of the mountains, and is generally well built. The Court iLouse is the principal building. The importance of Cumberland is due to its vicinity to the coal and iron mines of Maryland, which lie but a few miles to the west of it, and in the mountains. Immense quantities of a semi-bituminous coal are mined in this region and shipped east and west. The city is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. It contains about 6 churches, several schools, and 3 newsp)aper offices. In 1870 the population was 8056. MISCELLANIES. H’llE BALTrIMORE iIO’T. A few days after the declaration of war, the town of Baltimore was seriously disturbed. Some harsh strictures on the conduct of Government having appeared inl a newspaper of that city, entitled the Federal Reputblicans, the resentment of the opposite party was sl)hown by destioying the office and press of that establish 5 2- )

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MARYLAND. ment. The commotion excited by this outrage had, however, in a great measure subsided, and the transaction was brought before a criminal court for inlvestigation. But events more alarming and tragical shortly afterwards succeeded. On the 26th of July, MIr. Hanson, the leading editor of the obnoxious journal, who had deemed it prudent to leave the disordered city, returned, accompanied by his political adherents; amongst whom was General Henry Lee, of Alexandria, an officer distinguished in the Revolution for his bravery in partisan warfare at the head of a legion of cavalry, afterwards Governor of Virginia, and a representativre from that State in the Congress of the Federal Government. Determined to recommence the paper, by first printing it in Georgetown, in the District of Columbia, and then transmitting it to Baltimore for distribution, a house was for this purpose occupied in Charles street, secured against external violence, and guarded by a party well provided for defence. On the 28th, papers were accordingly issued. These contained severe animadversions against the Mayor, police, and the people of Baltimore, for the depredations committed on the establishment in the preceding month, and were generally circulated throughout the city. In the course of the day it became known that Mr. Hanson was in the new office in Charles street, and it was early whispered that the building would be assailed. A number of citizens who espoused his opinions went, therefore, to the house, and joined in its protection. Towards the evening, a crowd of boys collected, who, after using opprobrious epithets to those within, began to throw stones at the windows; and about the same time a person on the pavement, endeavoring to dissuade the youths from mischief, was severely wounded by something ponderous thrown from the house. They were cautioned from the windows to desist; but still continued to assail the place with stones.

Two muskets were then fired fronl the upper story; charged, it was supposed, with blank cartridges, to deter them from further violence; immediately the crowd in the street greatly increased; the boys were displaced by men; the sashes of the lower windows were broken, and attempts made to force the door. Muskets, in quick succession, were discharged from the house; some military arrived to disperse the crowd several shots were fired in return; and at length a Dr. Gale was killed by a shot from the office door. The irritation of the mob was increased. They planted a cannon against the house, but were restrained from discharging it by the timely arrival of an additional military force, and an agreement that the persons in the house would surrender to the civil authority.

Accordingly, early in the following morning, having received assurances on which they thought themselves safe in relying, they surrendered, and were conducted to the county jail, contiguous to the city. The party consisted of about 20 persons; amongst whom were General Lee, General James Lingan, and Mr. Hanson. The Mayor directed the Sheriff to use every precaution to secure the doors of the prison, and the commander of the troops to employ a competent force to preserve the peace. In the evening everything bore the appearance of tranquillity; and the soldiers, by the consent of the magistrate, were dismissed. But shortly after dark, a great crowd of disorderly persons reassembled about the jail, and manifested an intention to force it open. On being apprised of this, the Mayor hastened to the spot, an(], with the aid of a few other gentlemen, for a while prevented the execution of the design: but they were at length overpowered by the number and violence of the assailants. The Mayor was carried away by force, and the turnkey compelled to open the doors. A tragedy ensued, which cannot be described: it can be imagined only by those who are familiar with scenes of 527

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. blood. General Lingan was killed; eleven were beaten and mangled with weapons of every description, such as stones, bludgeons, and sledgehammers, and then thrown as dead, into one pile, outside of the door. A few of the prisoners fortunately escaped through the crowd: Mr.

Hanson, fainting from his repeated wounds, was carried by a gentleman (of opposite political sentiments), at the hazard of his own life, across the adjoining river, whence he with difficulty reached the dwelling of a friend. No effectual inquisition was ever made into this signal violation of the peace, nor punishment inflicted on the guilty. The leaders, on both sides, underwent trials; but, owing to the inflammation of public feeling, they were acquitted. ANECDOTE OF CHARLES CARROLL. The name of Carroll is the only one on the Declaration to which the residence of the signer is appended. The reason why it was done in this case is understood to be as follows: The patriots who signed that document, did it, almost literally, with ropes about their necks, it being generally supposed that they would, if unsuccessful be hung as rebels. When Carroll had signed his name, some one at his elbow remarked, ” You’ll get clear-there are several of that name-they will not know which to take.”-” Not so,” replied he, and immediately added, “of Carrollton.” 528 A

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DISTRICT OF Ae,……….. 60 Square Miles. …….. 75,08OSO ……….

131,706 THE District of Columbia originally embraced an area of ten miles square, but the portion ceded by Virginia was restored to that State in 1846, so that thle present District comprises only the grant made to the General Government by the State of Maryland. It lies on the east side of the Potomac at the head of tide water, 160 miles from the mouth of the river. It includes the cities of Washington and Georgetown, and is the seat of the Federal Government of the Republic. Ili its physical features it is like those portions of the State of Maryland immediately surrounding it. Until recently it was governed exclusively by Congress, and had no voice in its own affairs. Early in the year 1871, however, the two Houses of Congress passed a bill, which received the signature of the President on the 21st of February, making great changes in the affairs of the District. By this law the District of Columbia has been given the management of its own affairs. The District is orgalnized as a Territory, with a Government, consisting of a Governor and an Assembly. The Governor is appointed by the President of t}le United States by and with the advice and consent of the Senate. He holds office for four years and until his successor shall be appointed and qualified. He must be a citizen of the District for at least 12 months previous to his appointment, and have the qualifications of a voter. His duties and powers are similar to those of the Governor of a Territory of the United States. The Assembly 34 529

COLUMBIA. Area,….. Population-in l’dO”)O. Population in 1870,.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. consists of a Council and a House of Delegates. The Council is composed of 11 members, of whom 2 are residents of the City of Georgetown, 2 residents of the District outside of Washington and Georgetown, and 7 residents of the City of Washington. They are appointed by the President, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate. They must have the qualifications of voters to be eligible to their office.

They hold office for two years, five and six going out on alternate years.

The House of Delegates consists of 22 members, 2 from each of the 11
districts into which the District of Columbia is divided. They are elected by the people, and must have the qualifications prescribed for members of the Council. The right of suffrage is conferred upon all male citizens of the United States above the age of 21 years, who have resided in the District for a period of 12 months previous to an election, except persons of unsound mind and those convicted of infamous crimes. The Assembly has no power to abridge or limit the right of suffirage. The Government must confine itself entirely to the affairs of the District of Columbia. The inhabitants of the District do not vote for President or VicePresident of the United States. They send one delegate to Congress, who is entitled to the same rights and privileges in that body as are exercised and enjoyed by the Delegates from the several Territories of the United States to the House of Representatives. He is by virtue of his position a member of the House Committee for the District of Columbia. His term of office is 2
years. All the acts of the Legislative Assembly are subject at all times to repeal or modification by the Congress of the United States, which body retains its powers of legislation over the District as formerly. By this law the charters formerly held by the Cities of Washington and Georgetown are repealed, and all offices of those corporations abolished. The cities are brought directly under the control of the District Government, which succeeds to the possession of the municipal property. The cities retain their names and boundaries, but no longer exist as separate corporations, the government of both being confided to the authorities of the District.

The Supreme Court of the District of Columbia is the highest judicial tribunal. It consists of four justices (one of whom is designated as the Chief Justice), appointed by the President and confirmed by the Senate of the United States. The other Courts are the District and Criminal Courts, below which are the Justices of the Peace 530

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7 ffi <~ ffi~ _ ~ COLUIIBIAN DEAF AND DUMIB INSTITUTION.

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5TIIE G,IEAT REPUBLIC. HISTOlY. After the close of the Revolution, Congress continued to meet in the City of Philadelphia. In June, 1783, a band of mutinous soldiers broke into the hall where Congress was in session, and in a grossly insulting manner demanded the “back pay” due them, which amounted to a considerable sum1. This insult was felt deeply by the members, and it was agreed by common consent that it would be better for the seat of Government to be removed to a part of the country where the danger of a repetition of the occurrence would not be so imminent. Elbridge Gerry introduced a resolution authorizing the building of a Federal City, on the banks of the Delaware or Potomac, and the erection of buildings suitable for the use of Congress, provided a good location and the proper amount of land could be obtained on either of those rivers. This resolution was carried on the 7thl of October, 1783, but was amended by a provision for buildings on both rivers, and was repealed on the 26th of April, 1784. Congress met at Trenton, N. J., in October, 1784, and appointed three commissioners, who were authorized to lay out a district between two and three miles square on the Delaware, for a Federal City. The next January, Congress met in New York, and efforts were made to locate the district on the Potomac, but without success. In September, 1787, the present Constitution of the United St::tes was adopted, which provides that Congress shall have power “to exercise exclusive legislation, in all cases whatsoever, over such district (not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular States, and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of Government of the United States.” This clause of the Constitution fixed definitely the size of the new district, and was the first real step towards its acquisition.

Appreciating the advantage of having the Capital withhi its limits, the State of Maryland, through its Legislature, on the 23d of December, 1788, offered to Congress “any district (not exceeding ten miles square) which the Congress may fix upon and accept for the seat of Government of the United States.” The matter was debated in Congress in 1789. It was agreed on all sides that the district ought to be located in a section of the country easy of access from all parts of the Union, and ought to be as central as was consistent with the wealth and population of the section chosen. The North and the South-for the sec 532

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. tional division of the country had been made even at that early day each desired to secure the location of the new city within its own limits. The former demanded that the capital should be built on the banks of the Susquehanna, and the latter made a similar demand in favor of the Delaware or Potomac. New York, Philadelphia, Germailtown, Havre de Grace, Wright’s Ferry, Baltimore, and ConIococheague (now Washington City), each had its partisans. The controversy ran very high, and came near resulting in a serious quarrel between tile States. On the 5thl of September, 1789, the House of Representatives passed a resolution, “That the permanent seat of Government of the United States ought to be at some convenient place on the banks of the Susquehanna, in the State of Pennsylvania.” This resolution gave great offence to the Southern members, and even Mr. Madison went so far as to declare that had such ani action on the part of Congress been foreseen, Virginia would not have ratified the Constitution. The matter was made worse by the immediate passage of a bill by the House for the purpose of carrying the resolution into effect. The vote stood, 31 to 19. The Senate amended the bill by inserting Germantown, Pennsylvania, instead of the location on the Susquehanna, which amendment was accepted by the House. The House further amended the Act by providing that the laws of Pennsylvania should continue in force in the new district until Congress should order otherwise. The Senate decided to postpone the consideration of this amendment until the next session, and the matter w-ent over. Germantown was thus actually chosen as the Federal City, and it needed only the consent of the Senate to the last-mentioned amendment to make the transaction complete. Thus far none of the States but Maryland had taken any official action in this matter. The South was greatly excited over the course of Congress, all of the Northern States were not pleased, and the matter was felt to be a very serious danger to the harmony of the new Confederation. On the 3d of Decembler, 1789, the General Assembly of Virginia passed an Act ceding a district to Congress on the banlks of the Potomac. The cooperation of Maryland was asked in inducing Congress to accept the offer, and a sumI not exceeding $120,000
was pledged for the erection of public buildings, if Maryland, on her part, would contribute a sum not less than two-fifths of that amount for the same purpose. Maryland at once agreed to the request of Virginia, and pledged herself for the money. Other States now made offers of territory to Congress, but no immediate action upon the subject was taken by that body. 533

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THE GREIAT REPUBLIC. The great question which at that time occupied the attention of the people, was the funding of the public debt. Congress was divided upon the subject. An amendment had been presented to the House, and had been rejected, providing that the General Government should assume the State debts to the amount of $21,000,000. This question had become very closely interwoven withl that of selecting a Federal district. The Northern members were in favor of the assumption, but did not desire the location of the district in the South; and the Southern members, while divided upon the assumption question, were to a man in favor of having the offers of Maryland and Virginia accepted. Matters were at a dead halt, and the future seemed ominous. Jefferson was at this time Secretary of State, and Hamilton Secretary of the Treasury. Both were anxious to avert the danger which the vexed questions threatened, and after discussing the matter confidentially, came to the conclusion that a compromise was necessary. Hamilton urged that the South should consent to the assumption of the State debts by the Government, and declared that he felt sure if they would do this, the North would agree to locate the capital on the Potomac. It was decided that Jefferson should ask the members whose votes would accomplish this, to dine with him the next day, and lay the matter before them. The dinner was given, the plan proposed by Hamilton discussed, and a sufficient number of votes pledged for the assumption bill. Hamilton undertook to win over the Northern members to the capital scheme, and succeeded. The assumption bill became a law, and Congress definitely accepted the offers of Maryland and Virginia. On the 3d of March, 1791, Congress amended the original Act so as to include the city of Alexandria in the district, and the following proclamation was issued by President Washington, establishing the new district: “TfVhereas, By a proclamation, bearing date the 14th of January of this present year, and in pursuance of certain Acts of the States of Maryland and Virginia, and of the Congress of the United States, therein mentioned, certain lines of experiment were directed to be run in the neighlborhood of Georgetown, in Maryland, for the purpose of determining the location of a part of the territory of ten miles square, for the permanent seat of the Government of the United States; and a certain part was directed to be located within the said lines of experiment, on both sides of the Potomac, and above the limits of the Eastern Branch, prescribed by the said Act of Congress; 534

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. “And Congress, by an amendatory Act, passed on the 3d day of this present month of March, have given further authority to the President of the United States to make any part of the said territory, below the said limit, and above the mouth of Hunting Creek, a part of the said District, so as to include a convenient part of the Eastern Branch of the lands lying on the lower side thereof, and also the town of Alexandria; “Nowv, therefore, for the purpose of amending and completing the location of the whole of the said territory of ten miles square, in coinformity with the said amendatory Act of Congress, I do hereby declare and make known that the whole of the said territory shall be located and included within the four lines following, that is to say: “Beginning at Jones’ Point, being the upper cape of Hunting Creek, in Virginia, and at an angle in the outset of 45~ west of north, and running in a direct line ten miles, for the first line; then beginning again at the same Jones’

Point, and running another direct line at a right angle with the first, across the Potomac, ten miles, for the second line; then, from the terminations of the said first and second lines, running two other direct lines, of ten miles each, the one crossing the Eastern Branch aforesaid, and the other the Potomac, and meeting each other in a point. “And I do accordingly direct the Commissioners named under the authority of the said first-mentioned Act of Congress to proceed forthwith to have the said four lines run, and by proper metes and bounds defined and limited, and thereof to make due report under their hands and seals; and the territory so to be located, defined, and limited, shall be the whole territory accepted by the said Act of Congress as the District for the permanent seat of the Government of the United States. “In testimony whereof, I have caused the seal of the United States to be affixed to these presents, and signed the same with my hand. Done at Georgetown aforesaid, the 30th day of March, in the year of our Lord, 1791, and of the Independence of the United States, the fifteenth. GEORGE WASHINGTON.” The District was laid out by three Commissioners, appointed by the President, in accordance with the Act of Congress, in January, 1791. These Commissioners were Thomas Johnson, David Stuart, and Daniel Carroll. On the 15th of April, in the same year, they superintended the laying of the cornerstone of the District, at Jones’

535

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I)ISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. Point, near Alexandria. This act was performed with the ceremonies prescribed by the Masonic ritual. The District was named Columbia, in honor of the great discoverer of the continent. Having thus acquired a Federal District, and having definitely located its boundaries, the next step was to lay off the new city which was to be the capital of the nation. This task was confided to Major L’Enfant, a distinguished engineer, who was informed by the Commissioners that the new city would bear the name of “Washington.” In February, 1871, the Government of the District was reorganized, as has been already described. The cities of the District are Washington and Georgetown. WVASHINGTON CITY, The capital of the United States, is situated on the left bank of the Potomac River, between that stream and a tributary called the East Branch, a few miles below the head of tide water. It is 295 miles from the ocean, 226 miles southwest of New York, 432 miles soutthwest of Boston, 544 miles northeast of Charleston, 1203 miles northeast of New Orleans, 497 miles east of Cincinnati, 763 miles southeast of Chicago, 1200 miles northeast of St.

Louis, and 2000 miles in an air line northeast of San Francisco. The Capitol, which is nearly the centre of the city, is located in 38~ 52’ 20”

N. latitude, and 77~ 0’ 1.5” W. longitude from Greenwich. Thle city has connections by railroad and steamboat with all parts of the continent, and telegraphic lines extend from it all over the world. The Potomac is navigable for ships of the largest size as far as Greenleaf’s Point, the site of the Arsenal and Penitentiary. The British fleet anchored here in 1814, and the frigate Minnesota was launchled at the Navy Yard some years ago, and carried downl the stream after being equipped. The situiation of the city is advantageous in many respects. Its firont is washed by the Potomac, on the east is the East Branch, and on the left a stream called Rock Creek, which separates. it from Georgetown. “The general altitude of the city plot is 40 feet above the river, but this is diversified by irregular elevations, which serve to give variety and commanding sites for public buildings. The plot is slightly amphitheatrical, the President’s House, on the west, standing on one of the sides, and the Capitol on the other, while the space between verges towards a point near the river. The President’s House and the Capitol stand centrally with regard to the whole, though situated at the distance of a mile and a half from each other, the former 44 feet 637

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. above the Potomac, and the latter 72 feet. The summit of the hill on which the Capitol stands is the commencement of a plain stretch ing east, while that to the north of the President’s House tends westward.” Washington is laid off in a peculiar manner. According to the original plan, the Capitol was designed to be the centre of the city, and the starting point of the whole system of streets. This plan has been adhered to in the main, though it has been altered in some re spects. The streets running east and west are designated by letters. They are divided into two classes or sets-those north of the Capi tol, and those south of it. Thus, the first street north of the Capitol is A Street North, and the first street south of it, A Street South; the next is B Street, North or South, and so on. The streets running north and south are numbered. Thus, the street immediately east of the Capitol is First Street East, and that immediately west of it, First Street West, and so on. These distinctions of North, South, East, and West are most important, as forgetfulness of them is apt to lead to very great blunders. The streets are laid off at regular distances from each other, but for convenience, other thoroughfares, not laid down in the original plan, have been cut through some of the blocks. These are called “Half streets,” as they occur between and are parallel with the numbered streets. Thus, Four-and-a-half Street is between Fourth and Fifth streets, and runs parallel with them. The avenues run diagonally across the city, cutting the streets at rightangles. New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Delaware avenues intersect at the Capitol, and Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, and Connecticut avenues intersect at the President’s house. Pennsylvania Avenue is the main thoroughfare. It is 160 feet wide, and runs the entire length of the city, from the Eastern Branch to Rock Creek,-wwhich latter stream separates Washington from Georgetown. It was originally a swampy thicket. The bushes were cut away to the desired wi(ldth soon after the city was laid off, but few persons cared to settle in the swamp. Through the exertions of President Jefferson, it was planted with four rows of fine Lombardy poplars,-one on each side and two in the middle,-with the hope of making it equal to the famous Unter den Linden, in Berlin. The poplars did not grow as well as was hoped, however, and, when the avenue was graded and paved by order of Congress, in 1832 and 1833, were removed.

The street is now well paved and lighted. It is handsomely built up, and contains some buildings which would do credit to any city. The 538

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. view from either the Capitol or the President’s House along t,ic ave nue is very fine. There are 1170 blocks or squares, bounded by 22 avenues ranging fromn 130 to 160 feet in width, nanled, as far as they go, after the different States; and 100 streets, from 70 to 100 feet wide. The circumference of the city is 14 miles. There are 199
miles of streets, and 65 miles of avenues. The paving and grading of the streets has been done almost entirely by the city. The Government claims every privilege accorded to it by the original design, but steadily refuses to carry out the part assigned it by that same plan. Were it not for the Public Buildings which it contains, Washington would be a most uninteresting city; but these have made it one of the principal attractions of the country. With the single exception of the City Hall and the Smithsonian Institute, these buildings are ownled and used by the Federal Government of the United States. The Capitol is the grandest and most majestic edifice in the New World, and one of the finest on the globe. It stands on the western brow of a commanding hill, and overlooks the city and the surrounding country. The site was chosen by Washington, who was greatly impressed with its advantages. The cornerstone of the original building was laid by Washington, on the 18th of September, 1793.

This edifice was finished in 1811, and was burned by the British army, in 1814. Its reconstruction was begun immediately after the close of the war, and the building was completed according to the original design in 1825.

In 1851, work was begun on the Capitol for the purpose of enlarging and beautifying it. The principal additions consist of a massive dome over the central building, and a wing at the northern and southern extremities of the old structure. The building is not quite finished at present, but will require only a few years to complete it. The extension consists of two wings, each of which hAs a front of 142 feet 8 inches, and a depth of 238
feet 10 inches, not including the porticoes and steps. The porticoes front the east, and have each 22 monolithic fluted columns. They “extend the entiro width of the firont, having central projections of 10 feet 4
inches, forming double porticoes in the centre, the width of the gable.

There is also a portico of 10 columns on the west end of each wing, 105
feet 8 inches wide, projecting 10 feet 6 inches, and like porticoes on the north side of the north wing and south side of the south wing, with a width of 121 feet 4 inches. The centre building is 352 feet 4 inches long and 121 feet 6 inches deep, with a portico 160 feet wide, of 24 columns, 5:) 9

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4THE GREAT REPUBLIC. witil a double fagade on the east, and a projection of 83 feet on the west, embracing a recessed portico of 10 coupled columns. The en tire length of the Capitol is 751 feet 4 inches, and the greatest depth, including porticoes and steps, is 324 feet. The ground actually cov ered by the building, exclusive of the courtyards, is 153,112 square feet, or 652 feet over 321 acres. “The material of which the extension is built, is a vlwhite marble slightly variegated with blue, and was procured from a quarry in Lee, Massachusetts. The columnis are all of white marble obtained from Maryland. The principal story of the Capitol rests upon a rustic basement, which supports an ordonnance of pilasters rising to the height of the two stories above. Upon these pilasters rests the entablature and beautifill frieze, and the whole is surmounted by a marble balustrade. The main entrances are by tihe three eastern porticoes, being made easy of access by broad flights of stone steps with massive cheek-blocks, and vaulted carriage-ways beneathl to the basement entrances.” The buil(ling faces the east, and the rear is in the direction of the principal part of the city. This location was made under the impression that the neighborhood of the Capitol would be first settled in the growthl of the new city; but the designs of the projectors not having been realized, the building now faces the wrong way. Standing ill front of the edifice, and at a distance sufficient to take in the whole view, the effect is indescribably grand. The pure white marble glitters and shines in the sunlight, and the huge structure towlers above one like one of the famed palaces of old romance. The broad flights of steps of the wings and central buildings have an air of elegance and lightness which is surprising when their massive character is considered. The pediments of the porticoes will contain magnificent groups of sculpture. The central pediment is decorated with a group sculptured in alto-relievo. The Genius of America, crowned withl a star, holds in her right hand a shield bearing the letters U. S. A., surrounded with a glory. The shield rests on an altar inscribed with the date, “July 4, 1776,” encircled with a laurel wreath. A spear is behind her within reach, and the eagle crouches at her feet. She is gazing at Hope, who stands on her left, and is directing her attention to Justice, on her right, who holds in her right hand a scroll inscribed, “Constitution of the United States,” and in her left the scales. The group is said to have been designed by John Qtuincy Adams, and was executed by Signor Persico. The northern pediment contains Crawford’s famous group, representing the progress of civilization in the United States. America stands in the centre of the tympanunm, in 540

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. the full light of the rising sun. On her right hand are WTar, Com iierce, Youth and Education, and Agriculture; on her left the pio neer b)ackwoodsman, the hunter, the Indian and his squaw withl an infant in her arms, sitting by a filled grave. The southern pediment has not yet been filled. It is said that the design adopted for it is by William R. Barbee, and represents the discovery of the country by Columbus. The cheek-blocks of the steps to the central portico are ornamented by two fine groups of statuary. The group on the right of the steps represents the discovery of America, and is by Persico. Columbus, landing in the New World, holds aloft in his right hand a globe, symbolic of his discovery. IHe is clad in armor, which is said to be a faithful copy of a suit worn by him. An Indian maiden crouches beneath his uplifted arm, her face expressive of the surprise and terror of her race at the appearance of the whites. The group on the left is called ” Civilization,”

and is by Greenough. A terrorstricken mother, clasping her babe to her breast, crouches at the feet of a stalwart Indian warrior, whose arms, raised ill the act of striking her with his tomahawk, are seized and pinioned by the husband and father, who returns at the fortunate moment, accompanied by his faithful dog, which stands by ready to spring to the aid of his master. The entire~cost of the Capitol and its improvements, when completed, will be over $12,000,000. The interior of the Capitol is in keeping with the exterior. The Rotunda, which is the central portion of the old building, is surmounted by a grand dome, the ceiling of which is beautifully frescoed with allegorical designs. The walls are adorned with paintings and statuary, illustrating the history of the country. The effect of the whole is very beautiful. On the east side of the central building, opposite the main entrance, is the Library of Congress, a magnificent hall, filled with a collection of nearly 200,000 volumes. The copyright laws require a copy of each and every copyrighted bookl published in the United States to be deposited in this library. The library is free to the public for use within the hall, but only Members of Congress and certain other per-. sons are privileged to take the books from the hall. On the north side of the Rotunda is the portion of the building used by the Supreme Court of the United States, its officers, and its library, numbering between 25,000 and 30,000 volumes. A handsome corridor leads from this portion to the new North Wing, used by the Senate of the United States and its Committees. The base 541

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ment of this wing is exquisitely frescoed with illustrations belonging to the natural history of North America, the designs being painted from life. The Committee rooms in this wing are handsome apart ments, elegantly fitted up. The corridors are beautiful, and are mostly of marble, with floors of encaustic tiles. Two handsome marble stairways lead firom the basement to the second, or main floor.

They are situated in the southeastern and southwestern ends of the wing.

They are continued, on a much more magnificent scale, from the second floor to the galleries and rooms of the third floor. This portion of the two wings is on a level with the floor of the Rotunda, and contains the principal apartments of the Capitol. The main entrances are by the magnificent North and South Porticoes, which are now ornamented with the superb bronze doors designed for them. The doors of the Senate portico illustrate the events of the life of Washington. The retiring rooms of the Senate, and the rooms used by the President and VicePresident of the United States are gorgeous apartments. The President’s room is adorned with fresco portraits of Washington’s first Cabinet. Lying between the President’s and VicePresident’s rooms is a suite of sumptuous apartments-the most magnlificent in the b)uilding-known as the Marble Room. The total length of the three rooms is about 85 feet, the width 2121
feet, and the height 1921 feet. The floor is an exquisite piece of mosaic ill marble, and the ceiling is in panels of slightly colored Italian marble, and rests upon a series of magnificent white Italian marble pillars with elaborate capitals. The walls are adorned with large and superb mirrors, and are veneered with the finest specimens of Tennessee marble in the country. The windows are richly curtained, the furniture is exquisite, and tile apartment is lighted by a large brass chandelier. The suite is used by the Senators as a retiring and private reception room.

The principal apartment in this wing is the Senate Chamb’er, a magnificent hall, 112 feet in length, 82 feet wide, and 30 feet high. The ceiling is constructed entirely of cast iron, deeply panelled, with stained glass skylights, and ornamented with foliage, pendants, and drops, of the richest and most elaborate description. The walls and ceiling are painted with strong, brilliant colors, and all the iron work is bronzed and gilded. A cushioned gallery extends entirely around the hall. That portion immediately over the chair of the VicePresident of the United States is assigned to the reporters of the press, and a section enclosed by handsome iron railings, and immediately 5 -,I,)

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D)ISTRICTr OF COLUMBIA. facing the Chair, is for the use of the members of the Diplornatic Corps. The rest of the gallery is divided into sections for ladies and gentlemen. A fine view of the hall call be obtained firom any part of it. The space under the gallery is enclosed, and used as cloak-rooms, etc. The gallery will seat one thousand persons. Immediately opposite the main door of the Chamber is the chair of the VicePresident of the United States, who presides over the Senate. It is placed on a platform of pure white marble, and behind a desk of the same material.

Just below this is a similar but larger desk, used by the Secretary of the Senate and his assistants, and at the foot of this table are the chairs of the short-hand reporters of the debates. The floor rises in the form of an amrnphitheatre from the space in front of the Secretary’s desk to the rear. Along these rows of steps, the registers are built in the floor, and keep the temperature of the Chamber at a fixed hleat. The desks of the Senators are of oak, of a handsome and convenient pattern, and are arranged in three semnicircular rows facing the Chair. A comfortable armchair is provided for each desk; and sofas and chairs for the convenience of Senators and those entitled to the privileges of the floor, are arranged around the sides of the hall. The choice of seats is determined by drawing lots. During the day the glass ceiling allows a soft and pleasant light to pass into the chamnber, and at night the gas jets, which are arranged above the skylights, shed through the beautifill hall a radiance which can scarcely be distinguished from the light of the sun. In the South Wing of the old building, and opening upon the Rotunda, is the old Hall of the House of Representatives, one of the most beautiful apartments in the Capitol. In accordance with the popular wish this hall is preserved in its original state, and is now used as a gallery of Statuary. A fine corridor, ornamented with a pair of bronze doors, leads to the new South Wing, now used by the House of Representatives and its officers. These doors are the work of Randolph Rogers, an American artist, and are said to be the finest works of their kind in the world. They illustrate the principal scenes in the life of Columbus. The basement of the South Wing contains the Committee rooms of the House of Representatives. These are equal in magnificence to those of the Senate.

The corridors are not as handsome as those of the North Wing, but are still very beautiflil. The first floor is reached by an elegant stairway of marble at each end of the wing. 543

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. These stairways are continued to the second floor on a more magnificent scale, and are ornamented with fine paintings by Leutze and other artists. The corridors contain several statues of the great men of America. The Speaker’s Room, used by the presiding officer of the House of Representatives, is a beautiful apartment, and is ornamented with portraits of nearly every Speaker since the organization of the Government. The Hall of the House of Representatives occupies the central portion of the wing. It is 139 feet long, 93 feet wide, and 36 feet high.

It is of sufficient size to afford comfortable accommodations for the increased number of members a century hence. It has an area of 12,927
square feet. Thle galleries extend entirely around it, and will seat 1200
persons. The seats are cushioned, and present a handsome appearance. That portion opposite the Speaker’s chair is ornamented with a magnificent bronze clock. Immediately over the Speaker’s chair is the Reporters’

Gallery, which is for the exclusive use of the Press. It is furnished with handsome private desks, one of which is assigned to the accredited reporter for some particular journal for the entire session. Sonme 25 or 30 of the leading newspapers of the land are represented here. The rest of the gallery is divided into sections for the members of the Diplomatic Corps, for ladies, and for gentlemen unaccompanied by ladies. These are separated from each other by iron railings. The ceiling is of cast iron, and is similar to that of the Senate Chamber, but handsomer. In the centre is a large skylight containing a number of panels ornamented with the coats of arms of the various States and Territories of the Union. The hall is lighted by means of this skylight. “An arrangement of movable metallic plates, on the principle of Venetian blinds, is placed under the sunny side of the respective roofs of the House and Senate, so that the same amount of light may be admitted all the time.” The arrangement of the gas lights is similar to that of the Senate Chamiber. Fifteen hundred burners are placed over the glass of the ceiling, at a distance of an inch apart.

Over each one of these passes an incombustible wire. The gas is turned on, an electric current flashes along the wire, and in an instant the hall is filled with a soft, pleasing light, which resembles that of the sun.

Opposite the principal door, are three desks of pure white marble, ranged one above the other. The highest is occupied by the Speaker of the IHouse, the next by the Clerk of the House and his assistants, and the lowest by the official reporters of the debates. The registers for warming the hall are built 544

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. ill the sides of the different steps into which the floor is divided, and openings in the wall permit the heated air to pass off. The engines which work the heating and ventilating apparatus are situated in the basement, and are of such power that the air of the entire hall is re newed every five minutes. The ceiling is magnificently painted, and the walls below the galleries are laid off in large panels, which are to be ornamented with paintings in fresco illustrative of the principal events in the history of the country. One of these panels has already been filled with a magnificent fresco, by Brumidi, illustrating an event which occurred at the Siege of Yorktown. On the right and left of the Speaker’s chair are full-length portraits of Washington and Lafayette. The portrait of Washington was painted by Vanderlyn, by order of Congress, and that of Lafayette was presented to Congress by the great Frenchman himself, on the occasion of his visit to the United States, in 1825. Both pictures were among the ornaments of the old Hall of Representatives. The floor rises from south to north, like an amphitheatre. The seats and desks of the members (which are similar to those of the Senators) are arranged along this amphitheatre, in successive circles, facing the Speaker. There are at present 236 of these desks and seats in use. The desks and chairs are all of a handsome pattern, and make a very showy appearance. Seats are chosen by lot at the beginning of every session. The desk of the Sergeant-at-Arms is on the Speaker’s right, that of the Door-keeper on his left. The space under the galleries is enclosed and occupied by two cloak rooms for Members, a Barber Shop for Members, a Folding Room, and Document Room. The Capitol grounds cover an area of several acres, and are handsomely ornamented with statuary, fountains, shrubbery, etc. The dome of the Capitol is surmounted by Crawford’s statue of Freedom, a magnificent work of bronze. It is placed at an altitude of 300 feet from the ground. From the gallery below the base of-the statue magnificent views of the city, the Potomac, and the surrounding country may be had. The Executive Mansion, or, as it is more commonly called, the White Hoause, is the official residence of the President of the United States. It is situated on Pennsylvania avenue, near the western end of the city, and is surrounded by the Treasury, State, War, and Navy Departments. The grounds in front are handsomely ornamented, and in the rear a fine park stretches away to the river. The location is attractive, and commands a magnificent view of the Potomac, but it 35 545

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. UNITED STATES TREASURY. is not healthy. Ague and fever prevail in the spring and fall, and render it anything but a desirable place of residence. The building is constructed of freestone, painted white-hence its most common name, the “AVhite Ioutse.” It was designed by James Hoban, and was modelled after the palace of the Duke of Leinster. The cornerstone was laid on the 13th of October, 1792, and the house was ready for occupancy in the summer of 1800. It was partially destroyed by the Britishl in 1814. It has a front of 170 feet, and a depth of 86 feet. It contains two lofty stories of rooms, and the roof is surrounded with a handsome balustrade. The exterior walls are ornamented with fine Ionic pilasters. On the north front is a handsome portico, with four Ionic columns in front, and a projecting screen with three columns.

The space between these two rows of pillars is a covered carriage way. The main entrance to the house is from this portico through a massive doorway, which opens into the main hall. The garden front has a rusticated basement, which gives a third story to the house on this side, and by a semicircular projecting colonnade of six columns, with two fli,ghIlts of steps leading from the ground to the level of the prin 546

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. cipal story. The interior is handsome, but simple, and contains the state apartments, or rooms used for public receptions, the Executive offices, and the private residence of the President and his family. The United States Treasury is located on Pennsylvania avenue, at the corner of Fifteenth street west, fronting G street. The old building was commenced in 1836, and was constructed of inferior brown sandstone, painted in imitation of granite. In 1855, the extension was begun. It is now nearly completed. This extension has more than doubled the size of the original edifice, and has made the whole building one of the handsomest and most imposing in the country. The old building extended along Fifteenth street, and was ornamented with an unbroken Ionic colonnade, 342
feet long, which, though showy, was inconvenient, as it excluded the light from the rooms. The plan of the extension flanks the old building at each end with massive granite masonry, and makes beautiful terminations of the north and south fronts, which serve to relieve the dreary monotony of the long colonnade, besides providing a large new building at each end. “There are two inner quadrangles formed by the old rear building, extending back from the eastern entrance. These courts are each 130 feet square. The walls of the extension are composed of pilasters, resting on a base which rises some 12 feet above the ground on the southern or lower side. Between the pilasters or ante are belt courses, beautifully moulded, and the facings of the doors and windows are fine bold mouldings in keeping. In the centre of the southern, western, and northern fronts are magnificent porticoes. The west front has also the projecting pediments at the ends, corresponding with those on the east side, and each supported by square antre at the angles, with two columns between. The whole building is of the Grecian or Ionic order, and is surmounted by a massive balustrade. The new structure is of the best and most beautiful granite in the world, brought from Dix Island, on the coast of Maine.- The ante and columns are monoliths. The large, solid ante weigh nearly 100,000 pounds, and the columns some 75,000. The facility with which the immense masses are hewn out of the quarries, swung on board vessels, brought to the capital, and raised to the positions which the architect in his studio designed them to occupy, conveys a high idea of American art and enterprise. The Treasury Building, as extended, is 465 feet long, exclusive of the porticoes, by 266 feet wide.” The courts are ornamented with handsome fountains. A very beautiful one adorns the space in front of the western portico, at the en 547

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TIE GREAT REPUBLIC. trance to the President’s Park, and another is now being constructed before the north front. The entrances are through massive gateways. The yard on the north and west sides is lower than the street, and broad flights of steps lead to it. A handsome granite balustrade ex tends along the north wall. The interior arrangements are unusually fine. The architecture ranks next to that of the Capitol in its mag nificence, and is peculiarly American in its details. Unlike most of the public buildings, the offices are large, airy, and handsome, pre senting the appearance of splendid saloons, and affording a greater degree of comfort to the occupants than the narrow, cell-like apart ments of the old Treasury. The Department of State will soon be located in the Treasury Ex tension, where elegant and convenient apartments are being prepared for it. The Patent Office, or, as it is sometimes called, the Department of the Interior, is used by the Secretary of the Interior and his clerks, but was designed originally for the use of the Bureau of Patents. This bureau is entrusted with the duty of granting letters patent securing a profitable reward to any person inventing articles beneficial to civilization. The building, known as the Patent Office, occupies two whole squares, and fronts south on F street, north on G street, east on 7thl street west, and west on 9th street west. The length of the building, from 7th to 9th streets, is 410 feet, and the width, from F to G streets, is 275 feet. It is built up along the four sides, with a large interior quadrangle about 265 by 135 feet iit size. It is constructed in the plainest Doric style, of massive crystallized marble, and though devoid of exterior ornament, is one of the most magnificent buildings in the city.

It is grand in its simplicity, and its architectural details are pure and tasteful. It is ornamented with massive porticoes, one on each front, which add much to its appearance. The eastern portico is much admired.

That on the soutlf front is an exact copy of the portico of the Pantheon of Rome. The interior is divided into three stories. The ground and second floors are arranged in offices for the accommodation of the business of the Interior Department, but the third floor is occupied by an immense saloon extending entirely around the quadrangle. This is used as the Model Room, but partakes, as far as the south hall is concerned, of the character of a museum. Tile models and other articles are arranged in glass cases on each side of the room, ample space being left in the centre for promenading. There are two rows of cases, one above the other-the upper row be 548

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE. ing placed in a handsome light gallery of iron, reached by tasteful iron stairways, and extending entirely around the east, north, and west halls. The halls themselves are paved with handsome tiles. The ceiling is supported by a double row of imposing pillars, which also act as supports to the galleries, and both the walls and ceilings are finished in marble panels and frescoes. A more beautiful saloon is not to be found in America.

Connected with the Patent Office is a valuable library, and the most interesting museum of American antiquities, etc., in the country. The General Post Office is used by the Postmaster-General of the United States, and his assistants. It covers an entire block, almost directly opposite the Patent Office, and is bounded by E and F streets north, and 7th and 8th streets west. It is 300 feet long, from north to south, and 204 feet wide, from east to west. It is built of white marble, in the Corinthian style of architecture, and is the best representation of the Italian palatial ever erected upon this continent. It is rectangular in form, with a spacious interior courtyard, 95 by 194 feet in size. On the 7th street side there is a vestibule, which consti 549

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tutes the grand entrance into the building. The ceiling is composed of exquisitely ornamented marble panels, supported by four marble columns; and the walls, niches, and floor, are of marble, the floor being richly tesselated. On 8th street there is an entrance for mail wagons, handsomely ornamented. The City post-office is in the F street side of the building, and is tastefully arranged. The TJar Departmnent is situated on Pennsylvania avenue, west of the President’s House. It is a plain, oldfashioned edifice of brick, painted in lead color. It contains the offices of the Secretary of War and his assistants. The Navy Department is situated immediately in the rear of the War Department, and fronts on 17th street west. It is a plain build ing of brick, and contains the offices of the Secretary of the Navy and his clerks. It is proposed to erect new and handsome edifices for the War and Navy departments. The Bureau of Agriculture stands upon a portion of the Smith sonian Reservation. The grounds about it comprise about 20 acres, and have been laid out with much taste. The building is of pressed brick, four stories high, and is surmounted with a French roof. It contains the offices of the Commissioner of Agriculture and his assistants, whose business it is to overlook and promote the agricultural interests of the country, and to receive and publish statistics concerning them. This is one of the most.

interesting departments of the Government. The Navy Yard, situated on the Eastern Branch, at the foot of 8th street east, covers an area of 20
acres, enclosed by a high brick wall. It is one of the principal establishments of the Government, and contains several ship houses, and machine shops for the manufacture of everything needed for the building, equipping, and fitting-out of ships of war. The Arsenal stands at the extreme southern end of the city, on Greenleaf’s Point, at the mouth of the Eastern Branchof the Potomac. It is quite an extensive establishment, and is one of the principal Arsenals of Construction in the country. It is interesting as having been the scene of the trial and execution of the persons concerned in the assassination of President Lincoln. The National Observatory is situated upon all elevated site, southwest of the President’s mansion, near the Georgetown line, and commands a fine view of both cities and of the Potomac River as far down as Fort Washington and Mount Vernon. It is under the control of the Navy Department, and is in charge of a corps of naval officers selected 550

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. for their scientific abilities. It ranks high amongst the Observatories of the world, that of Russia only being superior to it. It is in charge of all the nautical books, maps, charts, and instruments belonging to the Navy. The Smithsonian Institution stands on a part of the portion of the public grounds extending westward from the Capitol to the Potomac River, and called “The Mall.” The grounds extend from 7th street west to 12th street west, and from the Canal (which forms the northern boundary) to B street south. They are very extensive, comprising an area of 52 acres, and were laid out by the distinguished horticulturist and landscape gardener, Andrew Jackson Downing, who died while engaged in this work. A handsome monument to his memory stands in the grounds. It consists of a massive vase resting on a pedestal, the whole being executed of the finest Italian marble. The building stands near the centre of the park. The site is about 20 feet above the average level of Pennsylvania avenue, and the centre of the building is exactly opposite 10th street west. The structure is in the style of architecture belonging to the last half of the twelfth century, the latest variety of rounded style, as it is found immediately anterior to its merging into the early Gothic, and is known as the Norman, the Lombard, or Romanesque. The semicircular arch, stilted, is employed throughout-in doors, windows, and other openings. The main building is 205 feet long by 57 feet wide, and, to the top of the corbel course, 58 feet high. The east wing is 82 by 52
feet, and, to the top of its battlement, 4221 feet high. The west wing, including its projecting apsis, is 84 by 40 feet, and 38 feet high. Each of the wings is connected with the main building by a range, which, including its cloisters, is 60 feet long by 49 feet wide. This makes the length of the entire building, from east to west, 447 feet. Its greatest breadth is 160 feet. The north front of the main building is ornamented with two central towers, the loftiest of which is 150 feet high. It has also a handsome covered carriage-way, upon which opens the main entrance to the building. The south central tower is 37 feet square, 91 feet high, and massively constructed. A double campanile tower, 17 feet square, and 117 feet high, rises from the northeast corner of the main building; and the southwest corner has a lofty octagonal tower, in which is a spiral stairway, leading to the summit. There are four other smaller towers of lesser heights, making nine in all, the effect of which is very beautiful, and which once caused a wit to remark that it seemed to him as if a “collection 551

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. of church steeples had gotten lost, and were consulting together as to the best means of getting home to their respective churches.” The entire edifice is constructed of a fine quality of lilac-gray freestone, found in the new red-sandstone formation, where it crosses the Poto mac near the mouth of Seneca Creek. The Institution was founded by James Smithson, an eminent Englishman. He died in 1828, and left the sum of $515,169 to the United States for the purpose of founding the Institution which bears his name. The object of Smith son in founding this institution was, in his own words, “to found at Washington, under the name of the Smithsonian Institution, an estab lishlment for the ilncrease and diffusion of knowledge among men.” The National Washington Monument stands immediately on the shore of the Potomac, directly west of the Capitol, and south of the White House. It is unfinished. Its total height is to be 600 feet, of which 184 feet have been completed. No work has been done on it for several years. It is to be finished by the voluntary contributions of the citizens of the Republic. It is to be built of white marble. The City Hall is the property of the City of Washington. It is a common place structure of white marble. Besides the public buildilgs, there are a number of fine edifices used for business purposes and for residences. The city is improving rapidly in this respect. The trade of Washington is almost entirely local. The City is connected with all parts of the country by railways, and the Potomac is navigable for steamers. Its manufacturing interests are in their infancy. The principal amount of the work done is on Government account. The principal points of the city are connected by street railways. Pure water is brought into the city from the Potomac above Georgetown. The Aqueduct is one of the finest works in the world. It was constructed by the U. S. Engineer Corps. The city is lighted with gas. It contains about 60 churches, some ofrwhich are very handsome.

The Markets are bountifully supplied. The Hotels are numerous, but do not compare favorably with those of the other large cities of the country. The Public Schools are, as yet, in their infancy. There are five large “public schools,” as they are called, which correspond to the “high schools” of most other cities, and a number of primary schools. The system is still incomplete, and capable of great expansion and reform. Of late years it has received - more attention from the city authorities and the people, and there is now a fair prospect that the system will soon be placed upon a basis which will enable it to meet the wants of all classes of the community. 552

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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. There are many private schools, some of which are excellent, and the city also contains several male and female boarding schools. Columbia Gonzaga (a Roman Catholic Institution) and the National Jiedical Colleges are located here. The government of the city is merged with that of the District of Columbia. In 1870 the population was 109,204.

The early history of Washington has been given in connection with the District of Columbia. In 1800, the period of the removal of the Government fromni Philadelphia, the population was 3210. By 1810 it had increased to 8208. In 1814 the city was captured by a British army under Lord Ross.

Upon their withdrawal from the city, they set fire to the Capitol, the President’s House, and the other public buildings, which were either wholly destroyed or greatly injured. In 1864, the city was attacked by a Confederate army under General Early, who failed to capture it, and was forced to retreat. The city has been the scene of some of the most interesting events of the late history of the Republic. GEORGETOWN Is situated in the District of Columbia, on the left bank of the Potomac River, at the head of tide water. It is separated from Washington City by Rock Creek. It is built along a range of hills, the highest of which are called the “Heights.” These are occupied by numerous villas and tasteful residences, and command extensive views of Washington and the surrounding country. The city is regularly laid off and is well built, though somewhat “old timey” in appearance. It was once a place of considerable trade, and possessed a large foreign commerce fifty years ago. At present the tonnage owned in the port does not exceed 3000 tons. It is still one of the most important fish markets in the country. Vast quantities of shad and herring are caught in the Potomac and are brought to Georgetown to be packed in barrels. The city is interested in manufactures to a considerable extent, and is improving rapidly in this respect. There are nearly 50 flour mills in the city. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal really terminates here, although there is a prolongation extending across the Potomac to Alexandria, in Virginia. The canal is carried over the Potomac in an aqueduct, a tremendous structure, 1446 feet in length, and 36 feet above the ordinary level of the river. The cost of this structure was $2,000,000. 553

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Georgetown is said to be a more agreeable place of residence than Washington. It is noted for its cultivated society, and the hospitality of its people. It is the seat of the Georgetown College, a Roman Catholic institution of high rank. The city has its public schools, and a number of private schools. A United States hospital for soldiers is located here. Georgetown is connected with Washington by a street railway.

It is supplied with water from the Potomac, is lighted with gas, and contains 10 churches. The government of the city is merged in that of the District. In 1870 the population was 11,384. Georgetown is a much older place than Washington. It was laid out by act of the Colonial Government of Maryland in 1751, and was incorporated as a city in 1789. 554

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VI GIN IA. Area,……………….. 38,352 Square Miles. Population in 1860,*…….. 1,596,318 Population in 1870………1,225,163 THE State of Virginia, the oldest of the original members of the Union, is situated between 36~ 30’ and about 39~ 20’ N. latitude, and between 75~ 10’ and 83~

30 WI. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Maryland, West Virginia, and Kentucky, on the east by Maryland and the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by North Carolina and Tennessee, and on the west by Kentucky and West Virginia. TOPOGRAPHY. The following description of the natural features of this State is taken from a pamphlet recently issued by General John D.

Imboden, the “Domestic State Agent of Immigration for Virginia.” “No State in the Union presents a greater variety of surface and climate than Virginia-from the mountains of the interior and the rugged hills east and west of them, to the rich alluvions of the rivers, and the sandy flats on the sea-coast. The greatest extent of mountains, and the greatest variety of timbers are found in this State. White Top Mountain, in Grayson county, attains an elevation of six thousand feet. “The State is by nature divided into five districts or regions, viz.: the Lower or Tidewater, the Piedmont, the Valley, the Alleghanies, and the Trans-Alleghanies. We will glance at them in their natural order. * Since the census of 1860, the western counties of the old State have been erected into the new State of West Virginia. 555 n…~ !]?

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. “LOWER OR TIDEWATER DISTRICT. - Thirty-seven counties, mostly bordering on the Atlantic Ocean and Chesapeake Bay, compose this district. It is generally level, not more than 60 feet above tide, even in the highest places. Great navigable streams traverse it in a southeastern direction, such as the Potomac, Rappahannock, York, and James, with a multitude of smaller streams. The great slope which forms this district is’divided by natural boundaries into no less than twelve principal peninsulas,’ says General Wise, of Virginia, in a recent address, replete with valuable information,‘the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, that between the Potomac and Rappahannock; between the Rappahannock and Piankatank; between the Piankatank and York; the York and James; the Mattapony and Pamunkey; the Chickahominy and the James; the Nansemond and Dismal Swamp and the Ocean; the Nansemnond and James and the Blackwater; the Blackwater and the Nottoway; the -Nottoway and Meherrin; the Meherrin and the Roanoke.’ “This favored region contains every variety of soil. The delta of these rivers’ in the borders of Virginia is richer and rarer in every production than the garden of the Nile.’ There is nowhere near it any’arida nutrix leonum,’ says General Wise,‘and its only quags of swamp, even in the Big Dragon of the Piankatank, and on the Chickahominy, and around the fire-fly camp of Drummoid Lake, are capable of being converted into a New Holland, by dyke and ditch of easy spit and drain, or horticulture of every fruit and vegetable, where drought cannot parch, and of a temperature milder than that much farther south.

Vegetation is confined to no one class of plants and trees, and flower, and fruit, and cereal, and staple crops of every variety flourish with a beauty and a fullness and a flavor to cheer industry and art with luscious plenty at home and a paying profit at the markets of every Eastern city.

There is a navigable stream at almost every door. There are eligible sites on every creek and river in this region, not only for all the more common fruits, such as apples, peaches, pears, cherries, berries, plums, and melons, but for the rarer and more delicate fruits-such as grapes, figs, pomegranates, apricots, nectarines, Persian cantelopes, strawberries, and cranberries. According to Prince, there are no sites on the continent so Italy-like for fruits, as some of these peninsulas of lowland Virginia.

“The crops of grain and vegetables are still more various, and the lands the easiest tilled in the world, with mines of marl and shell, and fossils and muck for manure in every part. It is a great mistake 556

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VIRGINIA. to suppose that this section is not equally good for stockraising of its kind, and for clothing as well as for food. It has the finest ranges in its savannas and salt marshes, for small cattle of the Devon breed. and the best for hogs and sheep-and the hardiest blooded horses. The pony of the Chincoteague Island will sell for a higher price than any horse in America proportioned to his girth; and the best racers of the two last centuries were foaled from the blood the south side of the James. Flax and hemp may be grown to any extent, and cotton has been grown profitably. Its forests furnish the choicest ship-timber from its salt sea atmosphere in thirty miles of the coast. Its Hampton Roads is the largest harbor of the continent, to which the eastern rivers converge from every point of the compass for commerce. And, everywhere, on land and water, nature has provided a meat-house of fisheries and game, venison, wild turkeys, quails and woodcock, rabbits, squirrels, robins, sora, reed-birds, shellfish, scale-fish, terrapins, turtles, swans, wild geese, brant, wild ducks, and plover innumerable, and indestructible. “The salubrity’of its climate,’ says General Wise,‘will compare with that of any region since drainage and liming of the lands began to remove the causes of malarial fevers chiefly at the point where the tides of salt water meet the currents of the fresh water at the rivers.’ “The entire region is favorable to the growth of the finer kinds of tobacco, offering great inducements for the settlement of growers from the various portions of European tobacco regions. There is no reason why the finest Cuban tobaccoes should not grow here, and with the now spreading cultivation of the Latakia tobacco plant, brought by Bayard Taylor from Palestine, and successfully introduced already by him in Pennsylvania, a great future is open for this staple in Virginia. Mr. Taylor thinks this variety incomparably better than the finest Yara or Cuba ever grown, and states that it does not deteriorate by being transplanted, but retains perfectly all its delicious charaeteristics. “Market gardeners near Norfolk cultivate early vegetables for the markets of Maryland, Pennsylvania and New York, having their produce ripening from three to four weeks earlier than in those more northern latitudes. They have been known, on from five to ten acres in cultivation, to make per annum from $2500 to $5000 clear profit. By the Anamessic line of railroad, which now in thirteen hours’

travel connects the city of Norfolk with the metropolis of New York, market gardeners and farmers on the lower Chesapeake Bay, especially those who live in Accomac and Northampton counties, may directly, and 557

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. those of Princess Anne, Norfolk, York, Gloucester, Mathews, Middlesex, Lancaster, and Northumberland may, by means of their own little schooners, in one night’s travel across the bay, offer their produce for sale within twenty-four hours, in the best market on the American continent. The fisheries on these coasts are world-renowned. On the whole linle of the counties above mentioned, fish manure can be abundantly obtained for the labor of carrying it away. Wheat and other cereals flourish. During the war ill this section, the inhabitants felt no apprehension on the score of living; they could find fish and oysters, and wild ducks, everywhere, and in plenty. In Nansemond county, in the celebrated Dismal Swamp, peat has been discovered. It is now being cut, moulded and shipped to the northern cities, and found to be extremely profitable. “By allowing 100 inhabitants to the square mile, and giving 60
acres as a homestead to each family, the lowlands of Virginia can maintain a population of 1,600,000 souls. “PIEDMONT DISTRICT. At the foot of the mountains, stretching away to where the navigation of the rivers which traverse the lowlands ceases, a region embracing 32 counties, lies, more diversified in surface than the lowlands-and, of course, more elevated, with a genial, healthful climate. Here are found the greatest inducements fbr the erection of manufacturing establishments,-natural waterpower being everywhere abundantly at command. This land is the Piedmont of Virginia-like the vinous land of Italy, though not so naked. As General Wise says:‘For hill and dale, and grove and meadow, for lawns and orchards, and mountain spires and undulating surface of waving wheat-fields and green swards, and buoyant springs and sparkling fountains, and bracing air-it surpasses all classic lands of Arcadia.’ It is divided by the James into North and South Piedmont, from the Point of Rocks to Lynchburg, and from Lynchburg to the North Carolina line. The difference in theselwo divisions of the Piedmont is attributable more to the difference in the past habits of cultivating the two than to any great variation of soil or climate. Though one is farther north, yet the climate of each is much the same as that of the other, both being affected by a mountain atmosphlere. The northern has the stiffest clay, and cultivates wheat and corn and artificial grasses, and raises live stock; the southern cultivates mostly tobacco and corn, though wheat also largely, and grazes but little. Both are beautiful and fertile and fit for farming-capable of the highest culture; are cool and bracing in temperature and blessed with health. 55S

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VIRGINIA. “This district has an area of 10,000 square miles, and is capable of maintaining a population of 1,000,000 souls. It is not generally a lime land, but portions of it are very rich, viz.: Loudoun, Fauquier, Albemarle, and Bedford counties. The tobacco which is raised in the southern section of Piedmont, south of 38~, is known as shipping tobacco. The fine tobacco counties in this section are Albemarle, Henry, Pittsylvania, Halifax, Campbell, etc. “Before wb reach the third principal region of Virginia we must cross the Blue Ridge, where we find still some of the most beautiful forests of America, and an atmosphere of surpassing saltibrity. The productions of this magnificent mountain-belt are similar to those regions on its sides. Waving wheat-fields and pastures and charming valleys, with grazing cattle and hardy husbandry, may everywhere be met. Vineyards are everywhere springing up, and its honey finds now, and its wines will soon find, a market in the world. “To the sturdy emigrant this ridge offers still thousands of acres of virgin lands, and nowhere in America will he have nature’s assurance of a long life so plainly indicated as here. This ridge alone contains at least 2000 square miles, or 1,280,000 acres-enough to divide into 6400 farms of 200 acres each, and to support a population of 50,000 more than it has now. ” VALLEY

DISTRICT.-Crossing the Blue Ridge Mountains we come to the celebrated valley of Virginia (Shenandoahl and South Branch), not only renowned for the fertility of its soil-8000 square miles in area, and capable of supporting 800,000 people-but for the splendid characteristics of its inhabitants-originally English, German, Scotch and Irish, now intermixed in one brave race. A continuation of the fruitfill Cumberland Valley of Pennsylvania, it stretches between the Blue Ridge and Alleghany Mountains the entire length of Virginia, obliquely from northeast to southwest, nearly 300 miles, and is from 25 to 30 miles wide. Possessing the finest grazing country in the world, and having throughout a limestone foundation, its lands yield from 20 to 40 bushels of wheat, and from 40 to 50 bushels of Indian corn is by no means an extraordinary crop. “To show the remarkable permanancy of its fertility, we cite the following from a traveller in the last century. Burnaby, in his travels, describes the condition of the Germans on the Shenandoah as follows:‘I could not but reflect with pleasure on the situation of these people, and think if there is such a thing as happiness in this life they enjoy it. Far from the bustle of the world, they live in the 559

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TIlE GREAT’ REPUBLIC. most delightful climate and richest soil imaginable; they are everywhere surrounded with beautiful prospects and sylvan scenes, lofty mountains, transparent streams, falls of water, rich valleys, and majestic woods; the whole interspersed with an infinite variety of flowering shrubs, constitute the landscape surrounding them; they are subject to few diseases; are generally robust and live in perfect liberty; they are ignorant of want and acquainted with but few vices; their inexperience of the elegancies of life precludes any regret that they possess not the means of enjoying them; but they possess what many prinees would give their dominions for-health, content, and tranquillity of mind.’

Seventy years later, Bernhard, Duke of SaxeWeimer, says of this valley:‘The country was pretty well cultivated, and by the exterior of many country houses, we were induced to believe their inhabitants enjoyed plenty.’ Daniel Webster, twenty years after this, in a public oration in the Shenandoah Vallev, said:‘he had seen no finer farming land in his European travels than in that valley.’ Still twenty years later, and the Northern troops when they entered it victoriously, after its great defender, Stonewall Jackson, had fallen, exclaimed:‘Here is a second Canaan, let us rest here and pitch our tents.’ What gives particular interest to this valley and to the Blue Ridge to the European and Northern emigrant is the fact that there have never been many negroes within them-at this day the land is cultivated almost entirely by white laborers.

“THE ALLEGHANIES.-Beyond this valley westward rise the Alleghanies. Their range runs northeast and southwest 250 miles, by 50 miles of average width-making of mountains, valleys, and dales, 12,500 square miles.

Besides their aspect of rocks, ridges, caves, valleys, slopes, healing springs, streams, and fountains, they present to the eye a most luxuriant indigenous verdure of blue-grass spread over forests and fields, which offer grazing to live stock on nature’s pastures without cost of clearing or cultivation. North of the High Knob and Haystack there are no negroes.

The whole region of these mountains abounds in minerals of every description, which wait for capital to develop them. Wheat, rye, oats, and other grains, and the fruits of northern latitudes grow luxuriantly everywhere in the valleys, dales, plateaus, and on the slopes of these rugged mountains, and offer a most inviting home to a Swiss, a Scot, a Swede, a Norwegian, etc. There is room enough in these mountains for 1,200,000 immigrants of every kind of occupation.” The lower part of the State is divided by the Chesapeake Bay, two 560

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VIRGINIA. NATURAL BRIDGE. counties lying between the Bay and the Ocean.

They are known as the Eastern Shore of Virginia. Below the mouth of the Potomac River, the Chesapeake lies wholly in the State, and receives the waters of the Rappahannock, Piankatank, York, and James rivers. The famous oyster fishing grounds of the Chesapeake are within this part of the State, and from them millions of bushels of oysters are gathered every year, and shipped to Baltimore and the northern cities. The Potomac River washes the entire northeast border of the State. It rises in two branches, in the eastern part of West Virginia. These branches unite in Hampshire county, West Va., from which point the main river pursues a generally southeast course to its mouth. It is 350 miles long, exclusive of its branches. It flows into the Chesapeake Bay through a broad estuary, 50
miles long, and fromnt 6 to 10 miles wide. It is navigable to Washington for firstclass vessels. 36 561

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. At Georgetown, in the District of Columbia, it is broken by a magnificent fall, over 50 feet high. The country along its upper waters is beautiful and grand beyond description. At Harper’s Ferry, the river first touches the soil of Old Virginia. Here it breaks through the Blue Ridge, a mountain-pass of the greatest magnificence. It forms the boundary between Maryland and West Virginia and Virginia. Leesburg and Alexandria are the principal towns of Virginia on the river. George Washington was born on the shores of the lower Potomac. The Rappahannock River is formed by the junction of the North and Rapidan rivers in the eastern part of Culpeper county. Flowing southeast, it empties into the Chesapeake Bay, about twentyfive or thirty miles below the mouth of the Potomac. It meets the tide at Fredericksburg, its principal town. Above this place it possesses almost unlimited waterpower of the best description. It is 125 miles long, and flows through a beautiful and fertile country. Together with the Rapidan, it has been rendered famous by the events which occurred on its shores during the late civil war. The York River is formed by the junction of the Mattapony and Pamunkey rivers, at the southeast end of King William county. It is about 40 miles long, with an average width of 3 miles, and flows southeasterly into Chesapeake Bay, directly opposite Cape Charles. West Point, at its head, now a mere hamlet, was once the most important place in the colony of Virginia.

Yorktown, so famous in the Revolution and the Rebellion, is situated on the right bank of the river, a mile or two from its mouth. The James River, the principal stream ill the State, is formed by the confluence of the Jackson and Cowpasture rivers, on the borders of Alleghany and Bottetourt counties. It flows southeast to the Blue Ridge Mountains, through which it forces its way, forming one of the grandest river passes in America. From this point its general course is northeast to the southern border of Albemarle county, after which it flows east-soutleast to the bay, emptying into that body of water between Capes Charles and Henry. It is broken in several places by falls, and at Richmond flows over a succession of rapids six miles long. It is about 450 miles long, exclusive of its branches. It is navigable for ships and steamers to Richmond, 150 miles from the sea, at the head of tide water. The James River and Kanawha Canal furnish uninterrupted navigation froml Richmond to beyond the Blue Ridge. The James flows through a beautiful and fertile country along its whole length. Above Richmond its waterpower is magnificent. The lower part of the river is 562

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VIRGINIA. known as Hampton Roads, and is defended by the powerful works of Fortress Monroe and Fort Wool. Lynchburg and Richmond are the principal towns on the river. Norfolk is situated on the Elizabeth River, 14 miles from its entrance into the James, opposite Fortress Monroe. The Roanoke River of North Carolina, and the Holston of Tennessee, rise in the southeast part of Virginia. The State is crossed by the Alleghany and Blue Ridge ranges, the former separating it from West Virginia. The Cuinberland Mountains form the southwestern boundary, and separate Virginia from Kentucky. The region immediately south of Norfolk is occupied by an immense marsh known as the Dismal Swamp, through which a canal has been cut fromn Norfolk to Elizabeth City, North Carolina, connecting the waters of the Chesapeake with those of Albemarle Sound. “The celebrated swamp called the’Dismal,’ lies partly in Virginia and partly in North Carolina; it extends from north to south nearly 30 miles, and averages, from east to west, about 10 miles. Five navigable rivers and some creeks rise in it.

The sources of all these streams are hidden in the swamp, and no traces of them appear above ground. From this it appears that there must be plentiful subterraneous fountains to supply these streams, or the soil must be filled perpetually with the water drained from the higher lands which surround it. The latter hypothesis is most probable, because the soil of the swamp is a complete quagmire, trembling under the feet, and filling im[nediately the impression of every step with water. It may be penetrated to a great distance by thrusting down a stick, and whenever a fire is kindled upon it, after the layer of leaves and rubbish is burned through, the coals sink down, and are extinguished. The eastern skirts of the Dismal Swamp are overgrown with reeds, ten or twelve feet high, interlaced everywhere with thorny bamboo briers, which render it almost impossible to pass. Among these are found, here and there, a cypress, and white cedar, which last is commonly mistaken for the juniper. Towards the south there is a very large tract covered with reeds, without any trees, which being constantly green, and waving in the wind, is called the green sea. An evergreen shrub, called the gall-bush, grows plentifully throughout, but especially on the borders; it bears a berry which dyes a black color, like the gall of an oak, and hence its name. Near the middle of the swamp, the trees grow much closer, both the cypress and cedar; and being always green, and loaded with large tops, are much exposed to the wind, and 563

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. easily blown down in this boggy place, where the soil is too soft to afford sufficient hold to the roots. From these causes the passage is nearly always obstructed by trees, which lie piled in heaps, and riding upon each other; and the snags left in them pointing in every direc tion, render it very difficult to clamber over theml. On the western border of the Dismal Swamp is a pine swamp, above a mile in breadth, the greater part of which is covered to the depth of the knee with water: the bottom, however, is firm, and though the pines grow ing upon it are very large and tall, yet they are not easily blown down by the wind; so that this swamp may be passed without any hinderance, save that occasioned by the depth of the water. With all these disadvantages, the Dismal Swamp, though disagreeable to the other senses, is in many places pleasant to the eye, on account of the perpetual verdure, which makes every season like the spring, and every month like May. Immense quantities of shingles and other juniper lumber are obtained fronm the swamp, and furnish employment for many negroes, who reside in little huts in its recesses. Much of the lumber is brought out of the swamp, either through ditches cut for the purpose, in long narrow lighters, or are carted out by mules, on roads made of poles laid across the road so as to touch each other, forming a bridge or causeway. There are very many miles of such road. The laborers carry the shingles, etc., to these roads from the trees, on their heads and shoulders. The Dismal Swamp Canal runs through it from north to south, and the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad passes for five miles across its northern part. It looks like a grand avenue, surrounded on either hand by magnificent forests. The trees here, the cypress, juniper, oak, pine, etc., are of enormous size, and richest foliage; and below is a thick entangled undergrowth of reeds, woodbine, grapevines, mosses, and creepers, shooting and twisting spirally around, interlaced and complicated, so as almost to shut out the sun. The engineer who had constmicted the road through this extraordinary swamp, found it so formidable a labor as almost to despair of success. In running the line, his feet were pierced by the sharp stumps of cut reeds; he was continually liable to sink ankle or knee deep into a soft muddy ooze; the yellow flies and mosquitoes swarmed in myriads; and the swamp was inhabited l)y venomous serpents and beasts of prey. The Dismal Swamp was once a favorite hunting-ground of the Indians; arrow-heads, some knives and hatchets are yet found there; and it still abounds in deer, bears, wild turkeys, wild-cats, etc. The water of this swamp is gene 564

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VIRGINIA. LITTLE STONY FALLS. rally impregnated with juniper, and is considered nmedicinal by the people of the surrounding country, who convey it some distance in barrels. This swamp is much more elevated than the surrounding country, and by means of the Dismal Swamp Canal might be drained, and thus a vast body of most fertile soil reclaimed; and the canal might be transformed into a railroad; and the juniper soil, which is vegetable, migllt, perhaps, be used as peat.” MINERALS. The State of Virginia is especially rich in mineral resources, which are still comparatively undeveloped. Gold is found in Fluvanna, Orange, Spottsylvania, Goochland, and Buckinglham counties, and the 565

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. mines in these regions can be made to yield a profitable return. The copper ore found in Fauquier county is said to yield 75 per cent. of pure copper. Coal and iron exist in great quantities. Immense beds of bituminous coal lie in the neighborhood of Richmond and in the mountain regions, while anthracite is found in quantities ill and beyond the Valley. Numerous salt springs exist in the southwestern counties of the State, from which large quantities of salt were annually produced before the late war. The salt works were either destroyed or greatly damaged during the war, so that this branch of the industry of the State has not filly recovered its importance. The other minerals are lead, plumbago, gypsum, porcelain-clay, fine granite, marble, slate, soapstone, lime, water-lime, and fire-clay. The State also abounds in mineral springs of nearly every known variety. They are famous among the fashionable summer resorts of the Union, and are visited every year by persons from all parts of the country. PRODUCTIONS. The climate, soil, and products of the State having been already described in the quotation from General Imboden’s pamphlet, it is only necessary to offer here a statement of the principal agricultural products in 1866. The following table is taken from the report of the Department of Agriculture for that year: Bushels of Indian corn, ” wheat,.. i; rye,….. ” 4 oats,.. ~ ” 4
buckwheat,. ” 4 potatoes,.. Pounds of tobacco,.. Tons of hay,….

……….. t COMMERCE. Previous to the war, Virginia was engaged in a large and lucrative trade with the States of the Union, and had a growing foreign commerce. Her tobacco commanded a high price in the markets of Europe, and her export of flour to South America and the West Indies amounted to near 200,000 barrels annually. Her oyster trade was extremely valuable. Her trade with Europe, however, was carried on mainly through the ports north of her. The statistics for 1860, the year before the war, include the present State of West Virginia, but we give them, as there have been no accurate returns since 566 24,369,908 4,331,364 698,453

10,245,156 162,686 1,592,166 114,480,516 203,698

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VIRGINIA. the close of the struggle. In 1861, the total exports of the State amounted to $5,858,024, and the imports to $1,326,249. MANUFACTURES.

The figures given below represent the condition of Virginia in 1860, and, of course, include the present State of West Virginia. In that year there were 4890 establishments in the State devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed 36,590 hands and a capital of $26,640,000, consumed raw material worth $30,880,000, and returned an annual product of $51,300,000. The value of the principal products was as follows: Cotton goods…….. Woollen goods…… Leather,……….

Pig-iron,………. Rolled iron………… Steam engines and machinery,.

Agricultural implements,.. Sawed and planed lumber,.. Flour,……….

Salt,……….. Manufactured tobacco,… The manufacturing interests of Virginia were almost fatally injured by the war, and are but slowly recovering from their reverses. The State possesses the most abundant waterpower in the world, and is destined to become one day one of the principal seats of American manufactures. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The great rivers of the State are navigable for a large part of their course, and a fine canal, extending from Richmond to Buchanan, in Bottetourt county, beyond the Blue Ridge, connects the mountains with the sea. Railroads extend through the State in various directions, connecting its various cities and towns with the capital, and with all parts of the Union. Five lines centre in Richmond, four in Petersburg, two in Norfolk, three in Lynchburg, and three in Alexandria. In 1868, the State contained 1416
miles of completed railroad, constructed at a cost of $49,975,000. The canals of the State have an aggregate length of about 175 miles. 56T

$1,063,611 809,760 1,218,700 251,173 1,147,425 1,478,036 339,959 2,540,000

15,210,000 479,000 12,236,683 …… ……

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. EDUCATION. There is no free school system in Virginia, though a complete system, including colored schools, will probably be established during the present year (1871). In 1860, there were 23
colleges in the State, some of which are now in West Virginia. Others were burned. The Uiniversity of Virgihia, at Charlottesville, is the principal school in the State. It was attended by 600 students in 1860. Since the close of the war, it has been reopened, and has regained a large share of its former prosperity. At present the number of stu dents is about 500. A student is admitted from each Senatorial dis trict of the State, without charge for matriculation, tuition, or room renit, these expenses being borne by the State. In return for these advantages, the student enjoying them is required to teach in some school in the State for a period of two years after his graduation. TVilliam and Ylary College, at Williamsburg, was established in 1693, and liberally endowed by William and Mary of England. It was in successful operation until 1860, and was regarded, next to the University, as the best school in the State. During the war, the buildings and other college property were destroyed by fire. Efforts are Inowv being made to restore the institution to its former condition. The Washingyton-Lee University, at Lexington, was established as an academy before the Revolution. In 1798, it was endowed by Washington, and reorganized as a college. It resumed its operations after the close of the war under the Presidency of General R. E. Lee, assisted by an excellent faculty, and is one of the best and most prosperous institutions in the State. It was formerly known as Washington College. After the death of General Lee, in 1870, it was given its present name. IHavtpder-Sidney College, in Prince Edward county, RandolphlIaeoa College, in Hanover county, and Emory and ILenry College, in Washington county, are the other collegiate institutions in the State. The Viiginia Jlilitary Institute, at Lexington, is entirely a State institution. It was in a high state of prosperity in 1860, but was burned during the war. It was reorganized upon the return of peace, and is now in a flourishing condition again. It is an admirable school, and furnishes its pupils with a thoroughly practical, scientific, and military training. 568

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VIRGINIA. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State of Virginia possesses a Penitentiary, at Richmond, all Asylum for the Blind, an Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, and an Asylum for the Insane, at Staunton, and an Eastern Asylum for the Insane, at Williamsburg. No returns of these institutions are at hand. FINANCES. The finances of the State are not in a prosperous condition. The State debt is large and increasing, and the interest thereon has not been paid as it accrued. This is attributed to the increased expenses incident to the peculiar condition of affairs in the State, the administration of the Government by the military authorities, and the partial failure to collect the revenue. On the 1st of January, 1871, the amount of principal and interest due by the State was $47,390,840. The State holds about $10,048,267 of valuable assets, which, in a few years, will be available for the reduction of the public debt, and it is believed that the ad valorem system of taxation prescribed by the Constitution will produce an annual revenue more than sufficient to meet the annual expenses; and now that the control of the State is once more in the hands of its own citizens, it is very certain that its obligations will be faithfully met, and that its time-honored reputation for integrity will suffer no stain. GOVERNMENT. After the close of the civil war, Virginia was kept under military rule until the early part of 1870. In the summer of 1869, the people of the State, in accordance with the provisions of the Reconstruction Act, elected a State Government, and the Legislature thuis chosen, acting provisionally, met at Richmond in October of the same year. Upon the reassembling of Congress, after the Christmas holidays, in 1869, measures were taken for the readmission of the State into the Union. On the 25th of January, 1870, a bill, which had passed both Houses of Congress, received the Executive signature. This bill readmitted the State under certain stringent conditions, one of the principal of which was a guarantee on the part of the State never to alter its Constitution so as to deprive negroes of the right of suffrage, nor to pass laws depriving negroes of the right to hold office, or of their school privileges. On the 27th of January, General Canby, the mili 569

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tary commander of the department, transferred the government of the State to the civil authorities. The Legislature met, at the call of the Governor, on the 8th of February, 1870. By the terms of the new Constitution adopted in 1869, the right of suffrage is secured to every male citizen of the United States of the age of 21 years, who has been a resident of the State for one year, and of the county, city, or town, three months next preceding the election at which he desires to cast his vote. The Government consists of a Governor, and LieutenantGovernor (who is ex-officio the President of the Senate), elected by the people for four years, and a Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, Second Auditor, and Register of the Land Office, elected by joint ballot of the two Houses of the Legislature. The Legislature consists of a Senate of 43 members, and a House of Delegates of 181 members. The two Houses are styled the General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Virginia. The highest judicial body is the Supreme Court of Appeals. It consists of five judges, chosen for a term of 12 years. There are 16 Circuit Courts, the judges of which hold office for 8 years. The State is divided into 82 districts, for each of which a county judge is elected. The courts of the cities have their separate judges. The term of office of the county and city judges is 3
years. All the judges of the State are chosen by a concurrent vote of the two Houses of the General Assembly. Elections for township and city officers are held onl the fourth Thursday in May, and elections for State officers and members of Congress on the first Tuesday after the first Monday in November. The State makes a liberal provision for the cause of education, and measures are now in progress for the establishment of a free school system. Richmond, in Henrico county, is the capital of the State. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 99counties.

HISTORY. Virginia was the first settled of the English colonies. On the 13th of May, 1607, a party of 105 settlers, sent out by the London Company, to whom James I. had given a charter for South Virginia, settled on the north bank of the Jamies River, and founded the town of Jamestown.

This colony was composed of worthless adventurers, and came in search of gold, which, of course, was not found. It was 570

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VIRGINIA. nominally under the control of Captaili Newport, but its real leader was the celebrated Captain John Smith, one of the most remarkable men of that period. Nothing but his energy and firmness prevented the colony from becoming a disastrous failure. In 1609, the powers of the London Company were greatly enlarged, and the government of the colony placed ill its hands. Additional emigrants were sent out to Virginia, to the number of about 500 persons, and Lord Delaware was appointed Governor.

The settlers were greatly harassed by the savages, and suffered much from privation and famine, and in 1610 were reduced to only 60 souls, with scarcely food enough to last them ten days. They were reinforced at this juncture by the arrival of Newport, Gates, and Somers, with 150 men, who had been wrecked upon the Bermudas, on their passage from England. They expected to find the colony in a prosperous condition, and were so discouraged by the state of affairs at Jamestown, that they took the remnant of the colonists on board, and started down the river, intending to sail for Newfoundland, where they hoped to be able to take passage to England in some of the fishing vessels. Upon reaching the mouth of the James, they were met by Lord Delaware, the Governor, who had arrived from England with three ships, with supplies and additional colonists; and the whole party returned to Jamestown. Virginia now grew rapidly. The settlement at Jamestown was placed beyond all danger of failure; the Indians were punished for their attacks on the early settlers; and additional villages were founded. In 1619, 1200 colonists were sent over, including 90 respectable young women, who were sold to the planters as wives, for 100 pounds of tobacco (worth $75), the price of their passage from England. One hundred felons were also sent over from the English prisons, by the express order of the king, and sold to the colonists as slaves. In the same year, a Dutch trading ship anchored in the James, and sold a number of negro slaves to the planters, thus introdlucing African slavery into the New World. The col06y continued to thrive, and in 1649, contained 15,000 white inhabitants, and 300 negroes. About 30 ships came yearly to trade, and there were nearly 30,000 horses, cattle, sheep, goats, swine, and asses within its limits. During the great civil war in England, Virginia remained faithful to the king, and continued to maintain its loyalty, in spite of the efforts of the Parliament to win it over, until 1652, when it submitted to the Commissioners of the Commonwealth upon termns which were all that the colony could have desired. On the restoration of Charles 571

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. II., Sir William Berkeley, the leader of the Stuart party in the pro vince, returned to Virginia, and was reelected Governor.

Charles granted many unjust privileges to his favorites, who oppressed the people of Virginia so sorely, being assisted in their oppressions by the Governor, that a portion of the people of the colony took up arms to maintain their ancient rights. They were conquered by the Governor, who treated the vanquished party with such cruelty that he was severely rebuked by the king. This struggle is generally known as “Bacon’s Rebellion,” from Nathaniel Bacon, the military leader of the so-called rebels. In 1698, the town of Williamsburg was built, and named in honor of William III. The country around Janmestown being marshy and sickly, the seat of government was removed to Williamsburg. The original settlement at once fell illtO decay, and at present only a ruined church tower marks the site. Virginia bore a prominent part in the wars with France. The war of 1754 originated in the efforts of the colony to break up the line of military posts which the French were establishing along the Ohio River.

This struggle first brought into notice a young surveyor, George Washington, who acquired in it a reputation and experience, which made him the foremost soldier in the Province. In 1764 the General Assembly of Virginia made an energetic and spirited protest against the claim on the part of the English Crown to tax the colonies without their consent. The colony was not represented in the first Continental Congress which met in New York, in October, 1765, the Legislature having adjourned before the invitation of Massachusetts was received; but the measures of that body were cordially endorsed at the next session of the Legislature, and throughout the whole struggle, Virginia and Massachusetts were the leading and most influential members of the colonial union. All the leading measures of resistance were originated by one,or the other of these provinces. The Royal Governor, Lord Dunmore, endeavored to check the efforts of the people, and was driven out of the capital, and forced to seek refuge on board a British man-of-war. He succeeded in capturing the town of Norfolk, but was finally driven out of it, after which he bombarded it from his ships. During the summer of 1776, he continued to ravage the coast, but was finally driven southward. In 1779, the British General Mathews captured and destroyed the town of Norfolk, took the villages of Portsmouth and Gosport, and destroyed several ships of war in course of construe 572

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VIRGINIA. tion there, and burned or captured 130 merchant vessels ill the vicinity. In 1781, Benedict Arnold, the traitor, captured and burned the village of Richmond, but being hotly pressed by the American mnd French forces, retreated to the lower James, and reeminbarked for Newport, Rhode Island. A few months later, Cornwallis and Phillips entered eastern Virginia, and swept it with fire and sword, dlestroying and stealing $10,000,000 worth of property. These out rages were partially avenged bv the capture of Cornwallis’ army at Yorktown, on the 19th of October, 1781.

During the war, Virginia furnished her flll share of men and means to the cause, besides contrilbuting to it many of its great leaders. She gave to it, George Washinigtoni, Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, Patrick Henry, Richard Henry Lee, ind many other good and great men. At the outbreak of thie war, Virginia was the first to propose a Confederation of the States, and at its close, perceiving that the system of Government in force was not suited to the necessities of the country, was the first to propose a Convention for the purpose of remedying its defects. This Convention met at Philadelphia, in 1787, and finally adopted the present Constitution of the United States, which was principally the production of James Madison, of Virginia. It was ratified by Virginia on the 25th of June, 1788, after encountering a strong opposition in the State Convention, led by Patrick Henry and Geor,e 5[ason. The State, in 1784, ceded to the United States its territory northwest of the Ohio river, which has since been organized into the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin. The present State of IKentucky also formed a part of the original State of Virginia, and was erected into a separate Territory, in 1789.. During the war of 1812-15, the shores of the Chesapeake and its tributaries were ravaged by the British, and in 1814, the city of Alexandria was captured by them. During this struggle Virginia again gave a great soldier to the country, in the person of Winfiel(l Scott, who, with Zachary Taylor, also led the American armies to victory in the war with Mexico. In 1831 a serious insurrection occurred, under the leadership of Nat Turner, among the negroes of Southampton county. It was suppressed and the leaders were executed, but not before a numiber of whites had been massacred. In 1859, the state was invaded at Harper’s Ferry by John Brown and his adherents, the details of which event have already been given in another chapter. 57

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Upon the secession of the Southern States, Virginia made great efforts to secure a peaceful solution of the troubles between the sections; but failing to accomplish this, withdrew from the Union, and joined the seceded States. Richmond was made the capital of the new Confederacy, and the Confederate forces were transferred to Virginia, which was thus made the theatre of war. The events of this unhappy struggle are too well known to need repetition here. It is sufficient to say that this State was the scene of some of the most important events of the war. Seven Federal armies were defeated, and over thirty pitched battles, besides numerous minor conflicts, were fought on its soil.

Finally Richmond and Petersburg were captured by the Union army, and General Lee, the great military leader of the South, was made a prisoner with all his troops. Virginia seceded from the Union on the 17th of April, 1861, and on the 23d of May, the ordinance of secession was ratified by a popular vote of 90,000. The people of the Western counties were opposed to this action, and being determined not to be forced out of the Union by the action of Eastern Virginia, summoned a convention, which met at WVheeling in June, 1861, and formed the new State of West Virginia, which now includes that portion of the old State lying between the Alleghany Mountains and the Ohio river.* After the close of the war, the State was subjected to the process of reconstruction, and until January 26th, 1870, was governed by a military commander. Virginia was greatly impoverished by the war. Her manufactures were almost totally destroyed, and her agriculture crippled to a very great degree. The State is now slowly recovering from the effects of these disasters. Now that slavery has been abolished, Virginia offers so many inducements to settlers fromn other States and from Europe, and such great advantages to capitalists, in its waterpower and mineral resources, that there can be little doubtthat a fewv years more will see her embarked in a career of industry and prosperity, which will far exceed anything in her past career. CITIES AND

TOWNS. Besides the capita], the principal cities and towns are, Norfoll Petersburg, Alexandria, Lynchburg, Portsmnouth, Winchester, Fred * For a more complete account of this separation, see West Virginia. 574

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VIRGINIA. ericksburg, Leesburg, Danville, Farmville, Lexington, Charlottesville, Salem, Liberty, Cliristiansburg, Staunton, and Wytheville. RICHMOND, The capital and the largest city of the State, is situated in Henrico county, on the northeast bank of the James River, at the head of tidewater. It lies at the foot of the lower falls of the James, and is about 184 miles from the sea by the course of the river, and 100 miles in an air-line south-by-west from Washington. Latitude 37~ 32’

17” N., longitude 77~ 27’ 28” MW. Richmond is one of the handsomest cities in the Union, and its situation is much admired for its romantic beauty.

The city is built on several hills, which are separated from each other by a picturesque valley, through which flows Shockoe Creek. The principal are Shockoe and Church or Richmond hills. From any of these elevations a magnificent prospect may be gained, embracing the beautiful country around the city, and the noble river winding among its green lhills, and leaping and dashing over the rocks which break its current for a distance of several miles. Three fine bridges span the stream at intervals of from 100
yards to half a mile apart. Two are used by railways entering the city, and connecting it with the States south of Virginia. The other is for vehicles and pedestrians. Richmond is laid out with great regularity, in perfect squares. The streets are broad, straight, and well paved, and, with the exception of the business thoroughfares, are shaded with fine trees. The city is built generally of brick and stone, and the most of the houses are situated in yards adorned with flowers and shrubbery. The principal business thoroughfare, Main street, runs throughout the lengthl of the city, and with the exception of the upper and lower portions, is one of the best-built streets in the Union. Broad street, parallel with Main, is a noble thoroughfare, and is occupied principally-withl retail stores. The general appearance of the city is handsome and attractive. The long streets, or those running parallel with the river, are named. Those crossing them at rightangles are numbered. The public buildings are handsome. The Capitol is the most conspicuous object in the city. It stands on Shockoe Hill, in the midst of a handsome square of 10 acres. It is an imposing building, and is adorned with a portico of Ionic columns.

It contains a marble statue of Washington, by Houdon, the famous French sculptor. To the west of the Capitol, and within the enclosure of the Capitol Square, 57~i5

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TIHE GREAT REPUBLIC. 57( I =O . L….. ItM OND. is the monument erected to Washington by the State of Virginia. It contains an equestrian statue of Washington, by Crawford, and statues of Jefferson, Mason, Henry, Marshal, Lee, and Morgan, by Crawford and Randolph Rogers. The monument is of fine granite; the statues are of bronze. To the south of the Washington monument stands a fine marble statue of Henry Clay. The Governor’s Mansion, a fine oldfashioned edifice, occupies the northeast portion of the square. The City Hall is an elegant structure on Broad and Capitol streets, opposite the square. The Custom House extends from Main to Bank street, immediately south of the Capitol. It is an elegant building of granite, and contains, besides the customs offices, the city post-office, and the United States Court-rooms. During the civil war, the building was occupied by the Executive, State and Treasury Departments of the Confederate Government. The Confederate Congress sat in the Capitol.

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VIRGINIA. The public schools are good, though few in number. The city also contains the Richmond College, conducted by the Baptist church; St.

Vincelt’s College, a Roman Catholic institution; and the Medical De p)artment of Hia(npden-Sydney College, the last of which occupies a fine granite building of Egyptian architecture. There are a number of excellent private schools and seminaries in the city, which has always been celebrated for its schools of this character. The Virgin,a His torical Society possesses a fine library. The State Library is in the Capitol.

There are several colored schools in the city. There are over 30 churches in Richmond, some of which are very handsome. St. John’s, on Church Hill, is interesting from its historical associations. The Penal establishments are the City Prison and the State Penitentiaiy. The latter is situated on a hill overlooking the river, and is a large edifice of brick with a fagade nearly 300 feet in length. The Benevolent establishments are numerous, and consist of a city Almnshouse, the Bellevue Hospital, the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylumn, and several societies for the assistance of the poor and distressed. The Cemeteries are Holywood and Shockoe Hill. The former is very beautiful. In the latter are buried some of the most distinguished men of the country., Richmond is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from the James River. Street railways connect its principal points. It is provided with an efficient police force, and a steam fire department, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. It has always been a place of great political and commercial importance, and is noted for the culture and hospitality of its people. In 1870, the population was 51,038. Richmond is admirably situated for commerce and manufactures. It lies in the midst of one of the finest agricultural regions of the Union, and has railway connections with all parts of the country. The James River and Kanawha Canal afford water transportation to the very heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Valley of Virginia. The river is navigable to the city for vessels drawing 10 feet of water, and those drawing 15 feet can lie within 3 miles of the city. There is regular communication by steamers with Norfolk, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and New York. The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway is now completed across the mountains, and will soon be finished to the Ohio River. Thile city is one of the most important tobacco aind wheat markets in the Union, and is one of the principal seats of the 37 511

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. manufacture of tobacco, which is exported in large quantities to the Northern cities for sale. Richmond is already largely engaged in manufactures, and is destined to become one of the most important manufacturing centres of America. It is already famous for its flour, its mills being among the most extensive in the country. Cotton and woollen goods, paper and iron ware are produced in considerable quantities. The waterpower is derived from the James River, which in the course of a few miles descends 100 feet, thus furnishing an amount of power sufficient to turn all the mills of New England. The water is never too low to be used. The civil war struck a terrible blow at the manufacturing interests of Richmond, but the city is slowly recovering its former prosperity. Five daily papers, and a number of weeklies and monthlies are published in the city. Richmond was founded in 1742; and in 1779, while still but a small village, was made the capital of the State.

In 1781, it was invaded and occupied by the British, under the command of Benedict Arnold. The invaders burned some public and some private buildings, and a quantity of tobacco, and retreated towards the lower James. IIn 1789, the place contained 300 houses, and a bridge was built across the rive* by Colonel John Mayo. In 1800, it contained 5737
inhabitants. It was from the first a place of great political importance, exercising a considerable influence over the country south of Virginia as well as over that State. After the secession of the Southern States and the beginning of hostilities in April, 1861, Richmond was made the Capital of the Confederacy, the Southern Government arriving there in June, 1861.

From that time the city was the chief object of the efforts of the military forces of the United States. It was defended with great skill and determination, but was finally entered by the United States forces, on the 2d of April, 1865. It was set on fire by the Confederate forces on the night of their departure from it, and almost the entire business quarter, including the large mills, etc., was destroyed. Since then, it has been rebuilt on a handsomer and more substantial scale. NORFOLK, The second city of the State, is situated in Norfolk county, on the north bank of the Elizabeth River, 8 miles from Hampton Roads, 32 miles from the ocean, and 160 miles by water, or 106 miles by land, from Richmond. 578

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VIRGINIA. The city is built principally of brick and stone, on a level plain, and is somewhat irregular in its plan. The streets are wide and are well paved, but the general appearance of the place is unattractive. There are, however, many fine stores and handsome dwellings, and of late the appearance of the city is being gradually improved. The City Hall and the Custom House are the principal buildings. The city contains 14 churches, a number of excellent schools, public and private, and a hospital. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. Norfolk possesses one of the finest harbors in the world. It is easily reached from the sea, and vessels of the largest size can lie alongside the wharves. The entrance to the harbor is defended by the works at and near Fortress Monroe, which also command the entrance to Hampton Roads. The Dismal Swamp Canal connects the Elizabeth River with Albemarle Sound. A very extensive trade in grain, fruits, and lumber is carried on by means of this canal, which is navigable for schooners. A railway connects the city with Petersburg, Lynchburg, and the southwest, and regular lines of steamers and steamships ply between Norfolk and Richmond, Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York, and Boston. The foreign trade of the city is growing rapidly. Its coasting trade is very great. An enormous traffic in market garden produce, fruits, eggs, etc., is maintained with the Northern Cities, the vicinity of Norfolk being devoted almost exclusively to truck farms. The trade in oysters and fish is also heavy. Portsmouth, in the same county, lies immediately opposite Norfolk, and is separated from it by the Elizabeth River. It is the terminus of a railway to Weldon, N. C., and the far South. Previous to the war it was the principal naval station of the Republic, and was provided with one of the largest and most complete navy yards in the world. These works were abandoned and destroyed by the United States authorities upon the secession of Virginia. It is doubtful whether they will ever be rebuilt upon as complete a scale.

Ferryboats connect the city with Norfolk. The war greatly injured the prospects of both cities, but they are gradually recovering from their losses. The foreign trade of Norfolk promises to increase rapidly, while the situation of the city will always throw into its hands a large coasting trade. In 1870 the population of Norfolk was 19,256. That of Portsmouth was 10,492. Norfolk was laid out in 1705, and named from the county of that 579

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TIE GREAT REPUBLIC. name in England. In 1736, it was incorporated as a borough; in 1776, it was burned by the British, and in 1845 it was incorporated as a city. In May, 1861, it was occupied and fortified by the Confederates, and in May, 1862, was captured by the United States forces, who held it until the close of the war. PETERSBURG, The third city of the State, is situated in Dinwiddie county, on the south bank of the Appomattox River, 10 miles from the junction of that stream with the James River at City Point, and 22 miles south of Richmond. It is connected with all parts of the countrv by railway, and by railway with City Point, where the large vessels trading with the city discharge their cargoes. The city can be reached by vessels of 100 tons. Petersburg possesses a large trade in flour and tobacco, and is to a limited extent engaged in manufactures, thle falls of the river, situated above the town, furnishing an enormous waterpower. A canal has been cut around these falls, above which small boats can ascend the river for about 100 miles. The city is regularly laid off, and is well built. It contains a number of handsomne buildings, public and private; several fine schools, including a large female college, about 12 churches, and 3 newspaper offices. It includes the village of Blandford, in Prince George county. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from the Appomattox, and is governed by a Mayor and Coulncil. The city was severely injured by the bombardment to which it was subjected during the civil war. In 1870 the population was 18,950.

Petersburg was founded by Act of the General Assembly in 1748, and was named after Peter Jones, the first settler on the spot. In 1752, a bridge was built over the Appomattox. In April, 1781, a British force under General Phillips, 2300 strong, landed at City Point, and advanced upon the city, defeating a small force of mnilitia under Baron Steuben, which sought to oppose their progress, and captured the town, to which they did considerable damage. They held Petersburg for about 24 hours. In May, of the same year, the town was occupied by Cornwallis’ army. In 1784, the place became a city, and the towns of Blandford, Pocahontas, and Ravenscrofts were united with it. In the summer of 1864, General Grant crossed the James River with his army, and laid siege to Petersburg, continuing at the saine 580

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VIRGINIA. time his demonstrations against Richmond. The siege was continued until April, 1865, when the Confederates, after a series of severe battles, were compelled to abandon their position around both cities. The retreat which ensued terminated in the surrender of the army of General Lee, which practically closed the war. During the siege Petersburg was frequently cannonaded, and was severely injured.

ALEXANDRIA, The fourth city of the State, is situated in Alexandria county, on the right bank of the Potomac River, 7 miles below Washington City, with which it is connected by a steam ferry and a railway. The city is delightfully situated on undulating ground, and commands a fine view of the river and of Washington City. It is substantially built, and possesses some handsome buildings, but its general appearance is that of a quiet inland town. The streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally well paved. Some of them are shaded with magnificent trees. The city is supplied with water fronm Cameron’s Run, a small stream close by, and is lighted with gas. It contains several public and private schools, and is the seat of a Theological Seminary and of a Hligh School of the Protestant Episcopal Church. There are about 12 churches, and 3 newspaper offices in the city. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 13,570. Alexandria was once a place of considerable commercial importance, and possessed a large foreign and domestic trade.

Some shipping is still owned in the port. The river furnishes unlimited water transportation to the sea, which is continued to the mountains by the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and there is railway communication with all parts of the country. The city seemed on the point of recovering some share of its former importance when the civil war put an end to its hopes.

Alexandria was settled in 1748, and was incorporated as a city in 1779. In 1801 it was ceded with other territory to the General Government, and constituted a part of the District of Columbia until 1844, when it was restored to the State of Virginia. In the spring of 1861 it was occupied by the United States forces, and was held by them during the war. Eight miles below Alexandria, on the same side of the Potomac, and within the limits of Fairfax county, is Mount Vernon, the residence and the site of the grave of George Washington. A few years previous to the civil war it was purchased from the Washington 581

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. MOUNT VERNON. family by a fund raised through the efforts of Edward Everett and others, and made the property of the nation.

During the civil war it lay between the lines of the two armnies, each of which scrupulously respected it. “Mount Vernon, then known as the Hunting Creek estate, was bequeathed by Augustine Washingtonl, who died in 1743, to Lawrence Washington, who received a captain’s commission ill one of the four regiments raised in the colonies, to aid the mother country in her struggle against France and Spain. It was namied after Admiral Vernon, under whom Lawrence Washington had served, and for whom he cherished a strong affection. The central part of the mansion, which is of wood, was erected by Lawrence, and the wings by George Washingtonl. It contains many valuable historical relics, among which are the key of the Bastile, presented by Lafayette, portions of the military and personal furniture of Washington, tfle pitcher, portrait, etc. The tomb of Washington, which is now fast going to decay, occupies a more picturesque situation than the present one, being upon an elevation in full view of the river. The new tomb, 582

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VIRGINIA. into which the remains were removed ill 1837, and subsequently placed within a marble sarcophagus, stands in a more retired situation, a short distance from the house. It consists of a plain but solid structure of brick, with an iron gate at its entrance. Above the arch of this vault are inscribed the following lines: ‘Within this enclosure rest the remains of GENERAL GEORGE WASIHINGTON.’ “The Mount Vernon domain, which has remained since the death of Washington in the possession of his descendants, was purchased a few years ago for the sum of $200,000, raised by subscription, under the auspices of a society of ladies known as the’Ladies’ Mount Vernon Union Association.’ It is therefore, and will continue to be, the property of the nation. In this noble movement the late Hon. Edward Everett took a distinguished and active part.”

LYNCHIBURG, The fifth city of the State, is situated in Campbell county, on the southl bank of the James River, 120 miles westsouthwest of Richmond, and 20 miles from the Blue Ridge. It is built along a steep declivity, which rises from the river shore, and is situated in a beautiful and picturesque country. It is irregularly laid off, but contains several handsome buildings. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from the river, which is pumped into a reservoir situated 253 feet above the level of the river. Lynchburg is one of the principal railway centres of the State, being the junction of roads leading directly from Norfolk, Richmond, Washington City, and Bristol, Tennessee. It is connected with Richmond by the James River Canal. These roads and the canal have made it a place of considerable trade. It is one of the principal tobacco markets of the State, and has also a large grain trade. Large quantities of tobacco are manufactured here. The city is,-to a limited extent, engaged in manufactures, the river affording extensive waterpower. Tobacco, cotton and woollen goods, and flour are the principal articles. The city contains 10 churches, several public and private schools, and 3 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council.

In 1870 the population was 6825. Lynchburg was founded in 1786, and named after John Lynch, one of the original settlers. In 1805 it was incorporated as a city. 583

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. MISCELLANIES. THE FIRST LEGISLA’I’IVE ASSEMBLY IN

AMERICA. One of the first acts of Yeardley, in Virginia, was to emancipate the remaining servants of the colony. The labor now being free, each man enjoying the fruits of his own industry, and anxious to increase his store, there was no fear of scarcity, and no time or opportunity for mutiny among the scattered and indus trious planters. With the increasing strength and independence of the colony, all fear of the savages had vanished. It is manifest that in these altered circum stances a modification of the despotic government ought to have been made, be cause its severity was no longer necessary, and while the power existed it might be abused, as the colony seriously experienced in the case of Argall. The mo ment the colonists began to take an interest in the country, by the enjoyment of their own labor and the possession of property, it was right that they should have some share in that government, in the prudent conduct of which they were most interested. Yeardley was aware of this, for, without any authority from home which we can trace, he called together a General Assembly, consisting of two members from every town, borough, or hundred, besides the Governor and Council, which met at Jamestown, near the end of June, 1619. Inl this Assembly seven corporations were represented, and four more were laid off in the course of the same summer. In this first North American legislature, wherein were ” debated all matters thought expedient for the good of the colony,”

several acts were passed which were pronounced by the treasurer of the company to be “well and judiciously carried,” but which are unfortunately lost to posterity. This was an eventful year to the colony, for, in addition to their Assembly, a college was established in Henrico, with a liberal endowment. King James had exacted ~15,000 from the several bishops of his kingdom for the purpose of educating Indian children, and 10,000
acres of land were now added by the company; and the original design was extended to make it a seminary of learning also for the English. One hundred idle and dissolute persons, in custody for various misdemeanors, were transported by the authority of the king and against the wishes of the company to Virginia. They were distributed through the colony as servants to the planters; and the degradation of the colonial character, produced by such a process, was endured for the assistance derived from them in executing the various plans of industry, that were daily extending themselves. This beginning excited in the colonists a desire for using more extensively other labor than their own, an opportunity for the gratification of which, unfortunately, too soon occurred. In this eventful year, too, a new article was introduced into the trade of the company with the colony, by the good policy of the treasurer, Sir Edward Sandys, which produced a material change in the views and feelings of the colonists with regard to the country. At the accession of Sir Edward to office, after twelve years’ labor, and an expenditure of ~80,000 by the company, there were in the colony no more than 600 persons, men, women, and children. In one year he provided a passage for 1261 new emigrants. Among these were 90
agreeable young women, poor, but respectable and incorrupt, to furnish wives to the colonists. The wisdom of this policy is evident-the men had hitherto regarded Virginia only as a place of temporary sojourn for the acquisition of wealth, and never dreamed of making a permanent residence in a place where it was impos 584

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VIRGINIA. sible to enjoy any of the comforts of domestic life. They had consequently none of those endearing ties of home and kindred to bind them to the country, or attach them to its interests, which are so necessary to make a good citizen. This new commodity was transported at the expense of the colony, and sold( to the young planters, and the following year anotlher consignment was made of’ 60 young maids of virtuous education, young, handsome, and well recommended. A wife in the first lot sold generally for 100 pounds of tobacco, but as the value of the new article became known in the market, the price rose, and a wife would bring 150
pounds of tobacco. A debt for a wife was of higher dignity than other debts, and to be paid first. As an additional inducement to marriage, married men were generally preferred in the selection of officers for the colony. Domestic ties were formed, habits of thrift ensued, comforts were increased, and happiness diffused; the tide of emigration swelled: within three years 50 patents for land were granted, and 3500 persons found their way to Virginia. In the month of August of this year an event occurred which stamped its impress upon the Constitution of Virginia, and indeed of the whole southern portion of America. This was the introduction of 20

African slaves by a Dutchl vessel, which availed itself of the freedom of commerce, which had been released firom the shackles of the company’s monopoly in the early part of this year, to rivet the bonds of slavery upon a portion of their fellow creatures and their descendants. The indented and covenanted servants which had been long known in Virginia, and whose condition was little better than that of slavery, was a small evil and easily removed, because they were of the same color and country with their masters; when they were emancipated, they leaped at once from their shackles to the full dignity of freedom. No one scorned to associate with them, and no one spurned their alliance; if honorable and worthy in other respects, they were equal to their masters, and might even rise to distinction. But not so the poor African. Nature has fixed upon him a stamp which cannot be erased or forgotten, even when his fetters have crumbled to the dust. TREATY BETWEEN VIRGINIA AND ENGLAND. In 1650, the Government of the Commonwealth of England sent a powerful fleet to reduce the Colony of Virginia to submission, as that colony had until then refused to acknowledge any authority but that of King Charles. The fleet cast anchor before Jamestown, in the month of June, 1650. The colonists made a formidable show of resistance, which so impressed the Cromwellian officers that they consented to receive the surrender of the colony upon the following terms, which were highly honorable to Virginia. The reader will notice that the poor little colony is recognized by the Commonwealth as its “equal.” The articles of surrender are concluded between the Commissioners of the Commonwealth, and the Council of State and Grand Assembly of Virginia, as equal treating with equal. It secures 1st. That this should be considered a voluntary act, not forced or constrained by a conquest upon the country; and that the colonists should have and enjoy such freedoms and privileges as belong to the freeborn people of England.

2dly. That the Grand Assembly, as formerly, should convene and transact the affairs of Virginia. doing nothing contrary to the Government of the Commonwealth or laws of England. 3dly. That there should be a full and total remission of all acts, words, or writings against the Parliament.

585

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THE GREAT. REPUBLIC. 4thly. That Virginia should have her ancient bounds and limits, granted by the charters of the former kings, and that a new charter was to be sought from Parliament to that effect, against such as had trespassed upon their ancient rights. [This clause would seem to be aimed at some of the neighboring colonies.] 5thly. That all patents of land under the seal of the colony, granted by the Governor, should remain in full force. 6thly. That the privilege of fifty acres of land for every person emigrating to the colony, should remain in full force. 7thly. That the people of Virginia have free trade, as the people of England enjoy, with all places and nations, according to thile laws of the Commonwealth; and that Virginia should enjoy equal privileges, in every respect, with any other colony in America. 8thly. That Virginia should be free from all taxes, customs, and impositions whatsoever; and that none should be imposed upon them without the consent of their Grand Assemrbly; and no forts or castles be erected, or garrison maintained, without their consent. 9thly. That no charge should be required from the country on account of the expense incurred in the present fleet. 10thly. That this agreement should be tendered to all persons, and that such as should refuse to subscribe to it, should have a year’s time to remove themselves and effects from Virginia, and in the meantime enjoy equal justice. The remaining articles were of less importance. This was followed by a supplemental treaty, for the benefit of the Governor and Council, and such soldiers as had served against the Commonwealth in England-allowing them the most favorable terms. ANECDOTES OF PATRICK HENRY. The wants of a large family compelled his father to find employment for his sons. At the age of 15, Patrick was put behind the counter of a country merchant. and the year following entered into business with his elder brother, William, with whom was to devolve its chief management; but such were his idle habits, that he left the burden of the concern to Patrick, who managed wretchedly. The drudgery of business became intolerable to him, and then, too, “he could not find it in his heart” to disappoint any one who came for credit; and he was very easily satisfied with apologies for non-payment. He sought relief from his cares by having recourse to the violin, flute, and reading. Am opportunity was presented of pursuing his favorite study of the human character, and the chliaracter of every customer underwent this scrutiny. One year put an end to the mercantile concern, and the two or three following Patrick was engaged in settling up its affairs. At 18
years of age he married Miss Shelton, the daughter of a neighboring farmer of respectability, and commenced cultivating a small farm; but his aversion to systematic labor, and want of skill, compelled him to abandon it at the end of two years. Selling off all his little possessions at a sacrifice, he again embarked in the hazardous business of merchandise. His old business habits still continued, and not unfrequently he shut up his store to indulge in the favorite sports of his youth. His reading was of a more serious character; history, ancient and modern, hle became a proficient in. Livy, however, was his favorite; and having procured a copy, he read it 586

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VIRGINIA. through at least once a year in the early part of his life. In a few years his sec. ond mercantile experiment left him a bankrupt, and without any friends enabled to assist him further. All other means failing, he determined to try the law. His unfortunate habl)its, unsuitable to so laborious a profession, and his pecuniary situation unfitting him for an extensive course of reading, led every one to sup pose that he would not succeed. With only six weeks’ study, he obtained a li cense to practise, hlie being then 24 years of age. He was then not only unable to draw a declaration or a plea, but incapable, it is said, of the most common and simple business of his profession. It was not until his 27thl year that an oppor tunity occurred for a trial of his strength at the bar. In the meantime the wants and distresses of his family were extreme. They lived mostly with his father in-law, SIr. Shelton, who then kept a tavern at Hanover Courthouse. Whenever Mlr. Shelton was from home, Henry took his place in the tavern, whlich is the identical public house now standing at Hanover Courthouse. The occasion on which his genius first broke fortl, was the controversy between the clergy and the Legislature and people of the State, relating to the stipend claimed by tlhe former.

The cause was popularly known as the Pa-soizs’ cause. A decision of the court on a demurrer, in favor of the claims of the clergy, had left nothing undetermined but the amount of damages in the cause which was pepdilg. Soon after the opening of the court, the cause was called. The scene which ensued is thus vividly described by Wirt: “The array before Mr. Henry’s eyes was now most fearful. On the bench sat more than 20
clergymen, the most learned men in the colony, and the most capable, as well as the severest critics before whom it was possible for him to have made his debut. The courthouse was crowded with an overwhelming multitude, and surrounded with an immense and anxious throng, who, not finding room to enter, were endeavoring to listen without, in the deepest attention.

But there was something still more awfully disconcerting than all this; for in the chair of the presiding magistrate sat no other person than his own father. MIr. Lyons opened the cause very briefly: in the way of argumnent he did nothling more than explain to the jury, that the decision upon the demurrer had put the Act of 1750 entirely out of the way, and left the law of 1748 as the only standard of their damages; lie then concluded with a highlly-wroughlt eulogiumll on the benevolence of the clergy. And now came on the first trial of Patrick Henry’s strength. No one had ever heard him speak, and curiosity was on til)toe He rose very awlkwardly, and faltered much in his exordium. The people hlung their heads at so unpromising a commencement; the clergy were observed to exchange sly looks with each other; and his father is described as having almost sunk with confusion from his seat. But these feelings were of short duration, and soon gave place to others of a very different character. For now were those wonderlul faculties vlhichl he possessed for the first time developed; and now was first witnessed that mysterious and almnost supernatural transformation of appearance, which the fire of his own eloquence never failed to work in him. For, as his mind rolled along, and began to glow from its own action, all the exuvice of the clown seemed to shed themselves spontaneously. His attitude by degrees became erect and lofty. The spirit of his genius awakened all his features. His countenance shone with a nobleness and grandeur which it had never before exhibited.

There was a lighltning in his eyes which seemed to rivet the spectator.

His action became graceful, bold, and commanding; and in the tones of his voice, but more especially in his emphasis, there was a peculiar charm, a magic, of which any one who 587

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ever heard him will speak as soon as he is namled, but of which no one can give any adequate description. They can only say that it struck upon the ear and upon the heart, in an manner whichi language cannot tell. Add to all these his wonder-working fancy, and the peculiar phraseology in which he clothed its images; for he painted to the heart with a force that almost petrified it. In the language of those who heard him on this occasion,‘lie made their blood run cold, and their hair to rise on end.’ “It will not be difficult for any one who ever heard this most extraordinary man to believe the whole account of this transaction, which is given by his surviving hearers; and, from their account, the courthouse of Hanover county must have exhibited, on this occasion, a scene as picturesque as has been ever witnessed in real life. They say that the people, whose countenances had fallen as hlie arose, had heard but a very few sentences before they began to look up; then to look at each other with surprise, as if doubting the evidence of their own senses; then, attracted by some strong gesture, struck by some majestic attitude, fascinated by the spell of his eye, the charm of his emphasis, and the varied and commanding expression of his countenance, they could look away no miore. In less than 20 minutes they might be seen, in every part of the house, on every benchl, in every window, stooping forward from their stands, in deathlike silence; their features fixed in amazement and awe, all their senses listening and riveted upon the speaker, as if to catch the last strain of some heavenly visitant. The mockery of the clergy was soon turned into alarm, their triumphl into confusion and despair, and at one burst of his rapid and overwhelming invective, they fled from the bench in precipitation and terror. As for the father, such was his surprise, such his amazement, such his rapture, that, forgetting where he was, and the character which lie was filling, tears of ecstasy streamed down his cheeks, without the power or inclination to repress them. ‘ The jury seem to have been so completely bewildered that they lost sight not only of the Act of 1748, but that of 1758 also; for, thoughtless even of the admitted right of the plaintiff, they had scarcely left the bar when they returned with a verdict of one penny d(amajes. A motion was made for a new trial; Ibut the court, too, had now lost the equipoise of their judgment, and overruled the mlotion by a unanimous vote. The verdict, and judgment overruling the motion, were followed by redoubled acclamation, from within and without the house. The people, vwhlo had with’difficulty kept their hands off their champion from the moment of closing his harangue, no sooner saw the fate of the cause finally sealed, than they seized him at the bar, and, in spite of his own exertions and the continued cry of i order’ from the sheriffs and the court, tjiey bore him out of the courthouse, and, raising him on their shoulders, carried him about the yard in a kind of electioneering triumph.” From this time Mr.

Henry’s star was in the ascendant, and hlie at once rose to the head of his profession in that section. In the autumn of 1764, hlaving removed to Roundabout, in Louisa county, hlie was employed to argue a case before a committee on elections of the House of Burgesses. He distinguished himself b)y a brilliant display on the right of suffrage. Such a burst of eloquence from a man of so hlumble an appearance, struck the committee with amazement, and not a sound but from his lips broke the deep silence of the room. In 1765, hlie was elected a member of the House of Burgesses, when he introduced his celebrated resolutions on the Stamp Act. Among his papers there was found, after his decease, one sealed and thus endorsed: 588

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VIRGIN IA.5. ‘Enclosed are thile resolutions of thle Virginia Assembly, in 1765, concerning the Stamip Act. Let my executors open this paper.” On the backl of the paper containing the resolutions was the following endorsement: 1 The within passed the -iouse of Burgesses in May, 1765.

They formed the first opposition to the Stamp Act, and the scheme of taxing America by the British Parliament. All the colonies, either through fear, or the want of opportunity to form an opposition, or fiom influence of some kind or other, had remained silent. I had been for tile first time elected a burgess a few days before, was young, inexperienced, unacquainted with the forms of the house and the imembers who composed it.

Findiing the men of weight averse to opposition, and the commencement of the tax at hand, and that no person was likely to step forthl, I determined to venture; and alone, unaided and unassisted, on the blank leaf of an old law-book, wrote the withlin. Upon offering them to the house, violent debates ensued. Many threats were uttered, and much abuse cast on me by the parties for submission. After a long and wariii contest, the resolutions passed by a very small majority, perhaps one or two only.

The alarm spread tliroug,lout America with astonishing quickness, and the ministerial party were overwhlelmied. The great point of resistance to British taxation was universally established in the colonies. This brought on the war, which finally separated the two countries, and gave independlence to ours. Whether this will prove a blessing or a curse, will depend upon the use our people make of the blessings which a gracious God lath besto-wedl on us. If they are wise, they will be great and happy. If they are of a contrary character, they will be miserable. Righteousness alone can exalt them as a nation. Reader, whoever thou art, remember this; and, in thy sphere, practise virtue thyself, and encourage it in others.

P. HIENIY.” It was in the midst of the above-mentioned debate that he exclaimed, in tones of thlunlder, ” Cmsar had his Brutus-Cliariles the First his Cromwell-and George the Third ”(” Treason!” cried the speaker-

” Treason! treason! ” echoed from every part of the house. Henry faltered not for a moment; taking a loftier attitucle, and fixing on the speaker an eye of fire, he finished his sentence with the firmiest emphasis)-“iie ay profft by their-example. If this be treason, make the most of it.”

Henceforth IMr. Henry was the idol of the people of Virginia, and his influence as one of the great champions of liberty extended throughout America. In 1769, he was admitted to the bar of the general court. Without that legal learning which study alone can supply, he was deficient as a mere lawyer. But before a jury, in criminal cases particularly, his genius displayed itself most brilliantly. ltis deep knowledge of the springs of human action, his power of reading in the flitting expressions of the countenance what was passing in the hearts of his hearers, has rarely been possessed by any one in so great a degoree. In 1767 or 1768, AIr. Henry removed back to Hanover, and continued a member of the Ilouse of Burgesses until the close of the Revolution, acting upon its most important committees, and infusing a spirit of bold oppositioni in its members to the pretensions of Britain. He was a delegate to the first Colonial Congress, which assembled Sept. 4, 1774, at Philadelphia. Upon Lord Dunmore’s seizing the gunpowder at Williamsburg, in the night after the battle of Lexington, Henry summoned volunteers to meet him; and, marching down towards the capitol, compelled the agent of Dunmore to give a pecuniary compensation for it. This was the first military movement in Virginia. The Colonial Convention of 1775 elected him the colonel of the first regiment, 589

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and the commander of ” all the forces raised and to be raised for the defence of the colony.” Soon resigning his command, lie was elected a delegate to the Convention, and not long after, in 1776, the flrst Governor of the commonwealth, an office he held by successive reelections until 1779, when, without an intermission, he was no longer constitutionally eligible. While holding that office, hlie was signally serviceable in sustaining public spirit during the gloomiest period of the Revolution, providing recruits, and crushing the intrigues of the Tories.

On leaving the office of Governor, hlie served, until the end of the war, in the Legislature, when he was again elected Governor, until the state of his affairs caused him to resign in the autumn of 1786. Until 1794 hle regularly attended the courts, where his great reputation obtained for him a lucrative business. “In 1788 hlie was a member of the Convention of Virginia, which so abl)ly and eloquently discussed the Constitution of the United States. He employed his masterly eloquence, day after day, in opposition to the proposed Constitution. His hostility to it proceeded entirely from an apprehension that the Federal Government would swallow the sovereignty of the States; and that ultimately the liberty of the people would be destroyed, or crushed, by an overgrown and ponderous consolidation of political power. The Constitution having been adopted, the Government organized, and Washington elected President, his repugnance measurably abated. The chapter of amendments considerably neutralized his objections; but, nevertheless, it is believed that his acquiescence resulted more from the consideration of a citizen’s duty, confidence in the Chief Magistrate, and a hopeful reliance on the wisdom and virtue of the people, rather than from any material change in his opinions.” In 1794, Mr. Henry retired from the bar. In 1796, the post of governor was once more tendered to him, and refused. In 1798, the strong and animated resolutions of the Virginia Assembly, in opposition to the alien and sedition laws, which laws hlie was in favor of, ” conjured up the most frightful visions of civil war, disunion, blood, and anarchy; and under the impulse of these phantoms, to make what he considlered a virtuous effort for his country, he presented himself in Charlotte county as a candidate for the House of Delegates, at the spring election of 1799,”

although he had retired to private life three years previously. His speech on this occasion, before the polls were opened, was the last effort of his eloquence. ” The power of the noonday sun was gone; but its setting splendors were not less beautiful and touching.” Mr. Henry was elected by his usual commanding majority, and the most formidable preparations were made to oppose him in the Assembly. But “1the disease which had been preying upon him for two years now hastened to its crisis; and on the 6tlL.of June, 1799, this friend of liberty and man was no more.” By his first wife he had six children, and by his last, six sons and three daughters. He left them a large landed property. He was temperate and frugal in his habits of living, and seldom drank anything but water. IHe was nearly six feet in hleight, spare, and raw-boned, and with a slight stoop in his shoulders; his complexion dark and sallow; his countenance grave, thoughtful, and penetrating, and strongly marked with the lines of profound reflection, which with his earnest manner, and the habitual knitting and contracting of his brows, gave at times an expression of severity. ” Hle was gifted with a strong and musical voice, and a most expressive countenance, and he acquired particular skill in the use of them….. He could be vehement, insinuating, humorous and sarcastic, by turns, and always with the utmost effect. He was a natural orator of the 590

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VIRGINIA. highest order, combining imagination, acuteness, dexterity, and ingenuity, with the most forcible action, and extraordinary powers of face and utterance. As a statesman, his principal merits were sagacity and boldness. His name is brilliantly and lastingly connected with the history of his country’s emancipation.” ” In private life, MIr. Henry was as amiable as hlie was brilliant in his public career. Ite was an exemplary Christian, and his illustrious life was greatly ornamented by the religion which he professed. In his will he left the following testimony respecting the Christian religion:‘I have now disposed of all my property to my family. There is one thing more I wish I could give them, and that is the Christian religion. If they have that, and I had not given one shilling, they would be wich; and if they have not that, and I had given them the whole world, they would be poo?r.” SPEECH OF LOGAN, A MINGO CHIEF. [ This celebrated chief was distinguished for magnanimity in war, and greatness of soul in peace. He was always acknowledged the friend of the white people, until the year 1774, when his brother and others of his family were murdered by the whites. This drew on a bloody war with the whites, and the Indians were obliged to sue for peace. The following speech was delivered at a treaty held by Governor Dunmore, of Virginia, with the Mingoes, Shawanese, and Delawares. Logan, though desirous of peace, remained in his cabin in silence, till a messenger was sent to him, to know whether he would accede to the proposals. Logan, after shedding many tears for the loss of his friends, answered as follows: ] “I appeal to any white man to say, if ever he entered Logan’s cabin hungry, and he gave him not meat: if ever hle came cold and naked, and he clothed him not. During the course of the last long and bloody war, Logan remained idle in his cabin, an advocate for peace. Such was my love for the whites, that my countrymen pointed as they passed, and said,’ Logan is the friend of white men.’ I had even thought to have lived with you, but for the injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last spring, in cold blood, and unprovoked, murdered all the relations of Logan, not even sparing my women and children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the veins of any living creature. This called on me for revenge. I have sought it: I have killed many: I have fully glutted my vengeance. For my country, I rejoice at the beams of peace: but do not harbor a thought that mine is the joy of fear.

Logan never felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his life. Who is there to mourn for Logan?-Not one.” WASHINGTON AND THE WIDOW CUSTIS. It was in 1758 that Washington, attired in a military undress, and attended by a body servant, tall and militaire as his chief, crossed the ferry called Williams’s, over the Pamunkey, a branch of York River. On the boat touching the southern or New Kent side, the soldier’s progress was arrested by one of those personages who give the beau ideal of the Virginia gentleman of the old r6gime, the very soul of kindness and hospitality. It was in vain the soldier urged his business at Williamsburg, important communications to the Governor, etc. Mr.

Chamberlayne, on whose domain the militaire had just landed, would hear of no excuse. Colonel Washington was a name and character so dear to all Virginians, that his passing by one of the castles of Virginia, without calling and partaking of the hospitalities of the host, was entirely out of the question. The colonel, however, 591

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. did not surrender at discretion, but stoutly maintained his ground till Chamber layne, bringing up his reserve in the intimation that he would introduce his friend to a young and charming widow, then beneath his roof, the soldier capitulated, on condition that he should dine-only dine-and then, by pressing his charger and borrowing of the night, he would reach Williamsburg before his excellency could shake off his morning slumbers. Orders were accordingly issued to Bishop, the colonel’s body servant and faithful follower, who, together with the fine English charger, had been bequeathed by the dying Braddock to Major Washing ton, on the famed and fated field of Monongahela. Bishop, bred in the school of European discipline, raised his hand to his cap, as much as to say, “Your orders shall be obeyed.” The colonel now proceeded to the mansion, and was introduced to various guests, (for when was a Virginia domicil oft the olden time without guests?) and, above all, to the charming widow. Tradition relates that they were mutually pleased, on this, their first interview-nor is it remarkable; they were of an age when impressions are strongest. The lady was fair to behold, of fascinating manners, and splendidly endowed with worldly benefits. The hero was fresh from his early fields, redolent of fame, and with a form on which ” every god did seem to set his seal, to give the world assurance of a man.” The morning passed pleasantly away, evening came, with Bishop, true to his orders and firm at his post, holding the favorite charger with one hand, while the other was waiting to offer the ready stirrup. The sun sunk in the horizon, and yet the colonel appeared not. “‘Twas strange,‘twas passing strange;” surely he was not wont to be a single moment behind his appointments-for he was the most punctual of all men. Meantime, the host enjoyed the scene of the veteran at the gate, while the colonel was so agreeably employed in the parlor; and proclaiming that no visitor ever left his home at sunset, his military guest was, without much difficulty, persuaded to order Bishop to put up the horses for the night. The sun rode high in the heavens the ensuing day, when the enamored soldier pressed with his spur his charger’s side, and speeded on his way to the seat of government, where, having dispatched his public business, hlie retraced his steps, and, at the White House, the engagement took place, with preparations for marriage. And much hath the biographer heard of that marriage, from the gray-haired domestics who waited at the board where love made the feast and Washington the guest. And rare and high was the revelry at that palmy period of Virginia’s festal age; for many were gathered to that marriage, of the good, the great, the gifted, and they, withl joyous acclamations, hailed in Virginia’s youthful hero,a happy and prosperous bridegroom. “And so you reimember when Colonel Washington camne a courting of your young mistress?” said the biographer to old Cully, in his hundredth year. ” Ay, master, that I do,” replied the ancient family servant, who had lived to see five generations; “great times, sir, great times-shall never see the like again!” “And Washington looked something like a man, a proper man-hey, Cully?” “Never seed the like, sir-never the like of him, though I have seen many in my day-so tall, so straight! and then lie sat on a horse and rode with such an air! Ahl, sir, hlie was like no one else. Many of the grandest gentlemen, in the gold lace, were at the wedding; but none looked like the man himself.”’ Strong, indeed, must have been the impression which the person and the manner of Washington made upon the “rude, untutored mind” of this lpoor negro, since tie lapse of three-quarters of a century had not sufficed to efface it. 592

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VIRGINIA. The precise date of the marriage the biographer has been unable to discover, having in vain searched among the records of the vestry of St. Peter’s church, New Kent, of which the Rev. Mr. Munson, a Cambridge scholar, was the rector, and performed the ceremony, it is believed, about 1759. A short time after their marriage, Colonel and MArs. Washington removed to Mount Vernon, on the Potomiac, and permanently settled there. ‘

This union,” says Sparks, “was in every respect felicitous. It continued forty years. To her intimate acquaintances and to the nation, the character of MIrs. Washington was ever a theme of praise. Affable and courteous, exemplary in her deportiment, remarkable for her deeds of charity and piety, unostentatious, and without vanity, she adorned by her domestic virtues the sphere of private life, and filled with dignity every station in which she was placed.” Previous to his acquaintance with Mrs.

CuLstis, Washington had been pleased with other ladies. The author above quoted on this point says, that in 1756, ” While in New York, lie was lodged and kindly entertained at the house of Mr. Beverley Robinson, between whom and himself an intimacy of friendship subsisted, which, indeed, continued without change, till severed by their opposite fortunes twenty years afterwards in the Revolution. It happened that Miss Mary Philips, a sister of Mrs. Robinson, and a young lady of rare accomplishmeats, was an inmate of the family. The chlarms of this lady made a deep inmpression upon the heart of the Virginia colonel. He went to Boston, returned, and was again welcomed to the hospitality of Mr.

Robinson. He lingered there till duty called him away; but he was careful to intrust his secret to a confidential firiend, whose letters kept him informed of every important event. In a few months, intelligence came, that a rival was in the field, and that the consequences could not be answered for, if he delayed to renew his visits to New York. Whether time, the bustle of a camp, or the scenes of war had moderated his admiration, or whether he despaired of success, is not known. He never saw the lady again till she was married to that same rival, Captain Morris, his former associate in arms, and one of Braddock’s aid(s-de-camip. “He had before felt the influence of the tender passion. At the age of 17, lihe was smitten by the graces of a fair one, whlom he called a’lowland beauty,’

and whose praises hlie recorded in glowing strains, while wandering with his surveyor’s compass among the Alleghlany Mountains. On that occasion hle wrote desponding letters to a friend, and indlited plaintive verses, but never ventured to reveal his emotions to the lady who was unconsciously the cause of his pains.” TIlE DEATH OF WIASHIN(GTON. Tobias Lear, a gentleman of fine education, who was Washlington’s Secretary for a long time, gave a simple but graphic account of the scenes at the time of the death of WVashllington. It will be remembered that the malady was violent illnflaiimation of the throat. On the first attack, Washington paid no attention to it, and on being advised to take some simple remedy for hoarseness, lie said, “No, you know I never take anything for a cold.

Let it go as it came.” That was on Friday evening, the 13thl of December, 1799. Between 2 and 3 o’clock the next morning, he awoke Mrs. Washington, and, with great difficulty of utterance, told her he was very unwell, and lhad had an ague. He would not permit her to rise to procure a remedy, lest she should take cold; but at daylight, when the servant came to make the fire in the room, she was sent to call Mr. Lear. 38 5 9;1)

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Washington was then breathing with great difficulty, and one of the overseers was called in to bleed him, while a servant was dispatched for Doctor Craik. The bleeding afforded no relief. Dr. Craik arrived about 9 o’clock, and other physicians were sent for. But all their remedies were applied in vain. The malady increased in violence, and at 4
o’clock in the afternoon the General whis pered, “I find I am going. MIy breath cannot last long. I believed from the first that the disorder would prove fatal.” Between 5 and 6 o’clock, Dr. Craik went to the bed and asked the sufferer if he could sit up. He held out his hand, and was raised up.

He then said to the several physicians present, “I feel my self going I thank you for your attentions; but I pray you to take no more trouble about me.” He lay down again, and all retired except Dr. Craik. He continued ill the same situation, uneasy and restless, but without complaining; frequently asking what hour it was. At about 8 o’clock, the physicians came into the room and applied blisters and cataplasms of bran to his legs and feet, after which they went out, except Dr. Craik, without a ray of hope. About 10 o’clock, he made several attempts to speak, and at length, with great difficulty, he whispered to Mr. Lear, “I am just going.

Have me decently buried; and do not let my body be put into the vault in less than three days after I am dead.” He then looked at Mr. Lear, and said, “Do you understand me?” Mr. Lear replied, “Yes,” when the expiring Patriot said, ” It is well.” These were his last words. About ten minutes before his death, his breathing became easier. He felt of his own pulse, and a few moments afterwards expired. The hour was 11 o’clock on Saturday evening. The only persons in the room at the time were Mrs. Washlington, Dr. Craik, Mr. Lear, Mrs. Forbes, the housekeeper, Washington’s favorite house-servant Chlristopher, and Caroline, Molly, and Charlotte, other servants. Mr. Lear held the hand of Washington to his bosom. Dr. Craik stood weeping near. Mrs. Washingtor sat at the foot of the bed, and Christopher was at its side. When all was silent, Mrs. Washington asked, with a firm and collected voice, ” Is he gone?” All were too full for utterance, but an affirmative sign assured her that he was no more. “‘Tis well,” she said, in the same voice, “all is over now; I shall soon follow him; I have no more trials to pass through.” 594

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CAROLINA. Area………… 50,704 Square Miles. Population in 1860……..

992,622 Population in 1870.,…….. 1,071,404 THE State of North Carolina, one of the original members of the Union, lies between 33~ 53’

and 36~ 33’ N. latitude, and between 75~ 25’ and 84~ 30’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Virginia and Tennessee, on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, onl the south by South Carolina, Georgia, and the Atlantic Ocean, and on the west by Tennessee. Its extreme length, from east to west, is about 450 miles, and its extreme width, from north to south, about 180 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. In the southern and southeastern parts of the State, the surface is level and sandy, and often marshy. These swamp lands are owned by the Board of Literature, in trust for the Public Schools, and are now offered to actual settlers on very liberal terms. “The better class of these lands are generally covered with a heavy and dense growth of tiimber, vines, reeds, and grass; the soil is from five to fifteen feet deep, and consists of decomposed vegetable matter, fine sand, and finely cotmmninuted clay. It produces exuberantly all the grains, grass, cotton, rice, peas, potatoes, turnips, pumpkins, melons, the garden vegetables, apples, peaches, and grapes; but the best test of its fertility is its growth of Indian corn, an exhausting crop, which it will yield in large amounts, from year to year, without manures or stimulants, and for an indefinite period. It will not produce as much per acre as the heavy clay soils in the highest state of improvement; but considering 595 N OR T H

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the difference of the expense of production, the crops of the former are vastly the more profitable. The average yield of Indian corn per acre, without the application of fertilizers or stimulants, is from fifty to seventy-five bushels; and experience has proved that this will continue, from year to year, for more than a century; while science infers, from the facts of the past and from careful analyses, that even two centuries of close cultivation will not exhaust the natural and ever renewing fertility of these soils. The swamps of eastern North Carolina do not generate the malaria which, in the marshy regions fiurther south, causes malignant fevers; and the experience of a large population devoted for over a century to open-air pursuits, will confirmi the state ment that the laborers here, in the woods, in the fiel(ls, and on the waters, are generally as healthy as in any part of the country.” The great Dismal Swamp, already described, occupies the upper part of the counties lying immediately north of Albemarle Sound. About sixty miles back from the coast, the surface begins to rise, and forms a fine hill country in the central part of the State. The western part is traversed by the ranges of the Alleghany Mountains, one of which (the Iron MIountains) forms the boundary between North Carolina and Tennessee. These mountains are rarely lower than 1000 feet. The principal peaks are Clingman’s Peak, 6941 feet, and Mount Mitchell, 6732 feet high, which form parts of the Black Mountains, and Roan Mountain, 6720 feet, Grandfather MAountain, 5788 feet, and Grandmother Mountain, 2500 feet high. The coast is lined by a chain of low islands or sand reefs, which lie between the mainland and the ocean, enclosing a series of sounds or lagoons, which are very shallow and(
difficult of navigation. Albemarle Souncr, one of the most important of these, lies in the extreme northeastern part of the State, immediately south of the Dismal Swamp. It extends inland from the ocean about 60
miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles wide. Just northeast of it is a’smaller body of water called Currituck Sound, with which it communicates by a narrow inlet. Communication is had with Pamlico Sound in the same way.

Pamlico Sound lies immediately south of Albemarle Sound, and is separated from it by a swampy neck of land, which comprises the counties of Hyde, Tyrrel, Washington, and Beaufort. The Sound is 80 miles long, and from 10
to 25 miles wide. Its average depth is about 20 feet, but many shoals occur in it. It is connected with Albemarle Sound at its northeastern extremity by a narrow inlet, in which, halfway between the two sounds, lies Roanoke Island, famous as 596

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NORTH CAROLINA. having been the site of the first English colony in America, and the scene of a fierce and bloody battle during the late war.

The Roanoke and Chowan rivers are the principal streams flowing into Albemarle Sound, and the Tar and Neuse rivers the principal streams flowing into Pamlico Sound. The Roanoke River rises in two branches in Virginia, which unite at Clarksville, in Mecklenburg county, in that State. Its general course is east-southeast, as far as the northwest end of Halifax county (N. C.), where it enters North Carolina, and flows southeast to Albemarle Sound. It meets tidewater at Weldon in Halifax county, 150 miles from its mouth, but above that place is frequently broken by rapids. The length of the main stream is 250 miles. One of its branches, the Staunton River, is about 200 miles long, and is regarded by some writers as the true Roanoke. This would make the length of the river about 450 miles. The Tar River, the lower part of which is sometimes called the Pamlico River, rises neatr the western border of Granville county, and flows southeast into Pamlico Sound. It is navigable for small vessels to Tarborough, in Edgecombe county. The Neuse River rises in Person county, the central northern county of the State, and flows southeast into Pamlico Sound. It is about 300 miles long, and is the second river in size in the State. It is navigable to Waynesborough, 100
miles from its mouth, but light draught boats have ascended it 100 miles farther. Its lower part forms a broad estuary several miles wide, and about 25 miles long, through which it empties its waters. Extensive forests of pitch and pine lie along its upper waters, or more properly above Kinston. Goldsborough, Smithfield, Kinston, and Newberne are its principal towns. The Cape Fear River, the principal stream in the State, is formed by the confluence, in Chatham county, of the Haw and Deep rivers. It flows thence, inii a southeasterly direction, through the centre of the State, into the Atlantic Ocean. At its mouth it is divided into two channels by Smith’s Island. It is the only river of the State flowing directly into the ocean, and is navigable to Fayetteville, 120
miles. By means of canals, dams, etc., boats are enabled now to reach the coal mines of Chatham county. It is a little over 300 miles long.

Wilmington, the principal city of the State, Fayetteville, and Elizabethtown are situated on its banks. Cape Fear, the most southern point of the State, is formed by the lower end of Smith’s Island. The mouth of the river is defended by Fort Fisher, which was bombarded and taken from the Confederates by the naval and land forces of the Union during the late war. The Yad 597

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SEA COAST OF NORTH CAIOLINA. kie (called the Great Pedee in South Carolina) and Catawba (WVateree in South Carolina), and several of the principal rivers of South Carolina rise ill and flow for some distance through this State. The waters of North Carolina abound in fish. The fisheries of Pamlico and Albemarle Sounds are amongst the most valuable in the world. There are several inlets breaking through the sand ridge lying along the coast, and several fine harbors within the limits of the State. The most prominent points of this ridge are known (commencing on the north) as Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout, and Cape Fear. SOIL, PRODUCTIONS, CLIMATE, MINERALS, MANUFACTURES, etc. From a communication from the Governor of North Carolina to the United States Commissioner of Emigration, we take the following descripl)tion, which fairly represents the present condition of the State: “The eastern section is mostly covered with pines, the mid(dle and western with vast forests of oaks (of many species) interspersed with the poplar, hickory, walnut, maple, etc. Seven large rivers, with their numerous tributarics, traverse the State, furnishling unlimited 598

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NORTH CAROLINA. waterpower as they flow down from the mountains through the middle section; and as they move with a moderate current across the champaign country, on the east, into the chain of sounds which skirt the coast, they furnish with these an aggregate of 900 miles of inland navigation, which might be doubled by carrying westward the system of slack-water improvements already commenced. With these navigable waters is interlaced the railroad system of the State, amounting to 998 miles completed, and 400 more in progress, which, with 350 miles of plank-roads and turnpikes, brings the sea-coast into ready communication with every part of the State. “THE SOIL is very various; alluvial and peaty accumulations abound near the coast and along the rivers, while in the middle and wvesterni regions the soil is mainly of granitic origin, and represents every grade of sandy or clayey loam of various fertility. “THE

CLIMATE has also a wide range, being tempered on the seaboard to something like the mildness of that of the Gulf States, while in the mountain region it approaches the rigor of New York. In the middle section, which constitutes the larger part of the State, and represents the average climate, the mean annual temperature is 60 degrees (Fahrenheit)-the mean summer temperature 75 degrees; mean winter, 43 degrees; extreme summer (diurnal), 89 degrees; average absolute maximum, 99 degrees; extreme winter (diurnal), 20 degrees; average absolute minimum, 12 degrees. The annual fall of rain is 45 inches. The number of cloudy days in the year is 130; rainy days, 60. “THE VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS are numerous. The most important are wheat, corn, oats, rye, potatoes, sweet potatoes, peas, rice, cotton, tobacco, turpentine, grapes, and fruits. Wheat and corn are produced with facility and abundance in all parts; rye, oats, and potatoes flourish in the middle and western regions; rice, sweet potatoes and peas in the eastern; tobacco in the middle; cotton in the southern counties of the middle, and in the eastern section; turpentine and pine lumber are peculiar to the east. The fruits most extensively and largely cultivated are the apple, peach, pear, and cherry, represented by numerous varieties.

No part of the continent is better adapted to these than the middle and western regions. The principal grasses are the orchard, herd’s, timothy, and blue, to which must be added clover and lucerne. All these flourish in the middle and western regions, and some of them grow wild; hence, stockraising is easy and profitable. The stock chiefly raised are horses, mules, cows, 599

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. sheep, and hogs. The grapes usually cultivated, besides foreign varieties, are the Scuppernong, Catawba, Lincoln, and Isabella, all natives of the State, the first three being excellent wine grapes. The Scuppernong is peculiar to the eastern section. The following abstract from the United States Census Report for 1860, will best show the productions and capabilities of the State: 3,326,000 annual product.

4,700,000 bushels annual product. 30,000,000 ” ” ” 2,800,000 ”’ ” 437,000

”’ ” 1,900,000 ” ” ” 830,000 ” 6,140,000 ” ” ” 58,000,000 pounds per annium. 32,900,000 ” ” 7,600,000 ” ” 4 883,000 ” ” ” 2,055,000 ” ” “

1,000,000 barrels ” ” Live stock,.. Wheat,… Corn,…. Oats,… Rye,.

Peas,…. Potatoes,.. Sweet potatoes, Cotton, Tobacco,… Rice,…

Wool,…. HIoney,… Turpentine,. “THE MANUFACTURES are chiefly cotton, wool, spirits of turpentine, lumber, iron, and paper. “The amount invested in the manufacture of cotton is $2,250,000; lumber, $1,000,000; turpentine, $2,000,000; iron, $500,000; wool, $350,000. “FISHERIES abound in the sounds and rivers of the eastern counties. The species of fish mostly taken are the herring, shad, blue-fish, mullet, and rock. The number of barrels annually packed for market is about 100,000 on the waters of Albemarle Sound. Considerable quantities are packed at other points. “MI.NERALS.-The most important of these are coal, iron, gold, copper, silver, lead, plumbago, limestone, marble, agolmatolite, soapstone, manganese, whetstones, grindstones, roofing-sTates, porcelain clay, and fire-clay. The coal is bituminous, and exists in two beds, situated respectively one hundred and two hundred miles from the coast, on Cape Fear River and on Dan River. It is abundant, accessible, and of good quality. Iron ore of excellent quality abounds in all parts of the state; the principal seats of its manufacture being on the Cape Fear, Catawba, and Yadkin rivers. Gold is found in almost all parts of the State, especially in the middle region; the annual product for many years has been $250,000. Copper mines abound in the middle, northern, and western counties. Plumbago is 600

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NORTH CAROLINA. found in great abundance near the capital, and again in the western region; marble in the middle and western; and marl everywhere in the eastern section. A chain of silver and lead mines (containing gold also) traverses the central portion of the State.” COMMERCE. The exports of North Carolina are principally pitch, tar, turpentine, cotton, and rice. In l 860, the commerce of the State was as follows: Exports $760,094; imports $365,931. A vigorous trade with the Northern States has sprung up since the war. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868 there were 977
miles of completed railroads in North Carolina, constructed at a cost of $20,121,000. Two main lines cross the State, one from Weldon to Wilmington, the other from Danville, Virginia, to Charlotte. There is still another important road from Greensboro in Guilford county, to Morehead City, on the Atlantic coast. This road crosses the Wilmington and Weldon road at Goldsborough. There is direct communication between the important tovwns of this State, by the lines above mentioned and their branches, and also with all parts of the Union. Tlhe roads of North Carolina were almost destroyed during the war, and are slowly recovering from their losses. EDUCATION. The University of North Carolina is located at Chapel Hill, in Orange county. It was founded in 1789, and with “its lands, emoluinenits, and franchises, is under the control of the State, and is to be held to an inseparable connection with the Free Public School System of the State. The benefits of the University as far as practicable are to be extended to the youth of the State, free of expense for tuition.

Previous to the late war, this institution was in a veryflourishing condition, but its resources have been crippled by the failure of the State Bank, in which $200,000 of its endowment was invested. The Board of Education elect for the University one Trustee for each county in the State, whose term of office is eight years. One-fourth of the Trustees are chosen every second year. The Board of Education and the President of the University are ex-o.fficio members of the Board of Trustees, and with three other Trustees to be appointed by tl]e Board, constitute the Executive Committee of the Trustees of the University of North Carolina.

The Governor is ex-oficio President 601

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. of the Board of Trustees, and Chairman of the Executive Committee of the University. “Before the war, public schools were maintained in the State, by means of the income derived from the Literary Fund, which amounted to $2,500,000 in 1860. About half of this fund was swept away by the war; and the system of district schools, which had brought a rudimentary education within the reach of all, free of cost, was prostrated, but measures have been taken to revive it. “The Constitution provides for a general and uniform system of Free Public Schools. The Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, Superintendent of Public Works, Superintendent of Public Instruction, and AttorneyGeneral constitute a State Board of Education, which succeeds to all the powers and trusts of the President and Directors of the Literary Fund of North Carolina, and has full power to legislate and make all needful rules and regulations in relation to Free Pul)lic Schools, and the Educational Fund. The Superintendent of Public Instruction has the chief oversight of the schools. Each county is divided into school districts, in each of which one or more public schools must be maintained at least four months in the year. The schools of each county are under the supervision and control of county commissioners elected biennially.” * In 1870 there were about 1250 schools in the State, attended by 32,650 white, and 12,350 colored children. In 1860 there were 16 colleges in the State. In the same year there were in North Carolina 301 libraries, containing 190,091 volumes. The newspapers and periodicals of the State were 73 in number, with an aggregate circulation of 4,862,572
copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. This State has no Penitentiary, l)nt the Constitution of 1868 requiires that one shall be erected as speedily as possible, and also authorizes the establishment of Houses of Refuge and Workhouses, as they may become necessary. The State Insane Asylum, at Raleigh, is an excellent institution. It was in a very prosperous condition before the war, but during hostilities it was greatly impoverished, and was greatly inconvenienced l)y the lack of funds and supplies. It is now in operation under more favorable auspices, and has about 180 inmates. * American Year Book, vol. i. p. 424. 602

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NORTII CAROLINA. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, at Raleigh, was closed for a while during the war, but was reopened in January, 1866. Binding books, and making shoes and brooms, constitute the principal work of its pupils. In 1867 it had 93 inmates, 26 of which were blind. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in the State was $1,999,227, and the number of churches, 2270. FINANCES. In January, 1871, the State debt amounted to $29,900,045. The annual expenses of the State, including the interest, at six per cent. on the debt, are al)out $2,500,000, and are provided for by taxation. In 1868 there were 6

National Banks in the State, with a capital of $653,300. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of North Carolina was adopted by the people in April, 1868. The present State officers were elected at the same time, and hold office for four years from the 1st of January, 1869. Every male citizen, 21 years old, who has resided in the State one year, and in the county six months, has the right to vote at the elections, but no person may vote without being registered. The Government of the State is vested ill a Governor, Lieutenant Governor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 50
members) and House of Representatives (of 120 members), all chosen by the people. The Executive officers are chosen every fourth year, and members of the Legislature every two years. The Governor is advised in his duties by a Council of State, of which the Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, and the Superintendents of Public Works and’ of Public Instruction, are ex-ofcio members. A separate journal of the proceedings of this Council is kept, which must be submitted to the Legislature for examination whenever called for. The courts of the State are the Supreme Court, Superior Court, and one County Court for each county, the judges of which are elected by the people. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and four Associate Justices. For purposes of government, North Carolina is divided into 86 counties. Raleigh, in \Wake county, is the capital of the State. 603

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. HISTORY. The first attempt of the English to settle their possessions in America, was made at Roanoke Island, in this State, in 1585. The colonists got into trouble with the Indians, and the settlement was abandoned the following year. In 1630, an immense tract of land, south of the Chesapeake, was granted to Sir Robert Heath, and called Carolina. As he did not colonize it, however, the grant was afterwards declared forfeit. Ill 1663, the territorv was granted by Charles II. of England to a company of eight of the most distinguished noblemen of England. This grant embraced the territory lying between latitudes 290 and 36~ 30’ north, and the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The grantees were given filll powers over their domain. The northern part of this province was, about this time, settled by dissenters from Virginia. It was called Albemarle, and an absurd Constitution for its government was drawn up for the proprietors by John Locke. It was for about twentyfive years, nominally, the supreme law of the province, but was at length abandoned, because of the impossibility of carrying out its provisions. The colonists, however, showed a rare wisdom in the establishment of their government. They carefully guarded the rights of property and of person, and granted entire freedom in matters of religion. The colony grew and prospered slowly, and in 1674 contained only 4000 inhabitants. Its early history, however, was marked by continuous strife between the authorities and the inhabitants. In 1695, John Archdale, a Quaker, was appointed Governor. By a series of wvise measures, he succeeded in restoring order and quiet, and in establishing churches and providing for their support.

During his administration tar and turpentine were first exported. In 1711, by the aid of troops from Virginia, a rebellion which had been incited by Thomas Cary, who wished to retain his place as Governor, was suppressed. A little later, the Tuscarora Indians commenced a merciless war upon the settlers. They were conquered, with the aid of the neighboring colonies, in 1713, and compelled to move northward. In 1729, the king purchased the privileges of the proprietors, and Carolina became a royal province, and was divided into two colonies, called North and Southl Carolina. Slavery was introduced into the colony at an early day, and continued to form the basis of its agricultural industry until 1865. In 1765, the population was greatly increased by the arrival of a band of Presbvterians from the north of Ireland, who settled in the northwestern 604

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NORTH CAROLINA. part of the State. They were followed by a colony of Moravians, who settled between the Yadkin and Dan rivers, and a colony of Highlanders, who settled on the upper Cape Fear, near the present town of Fayetteville. The colony actively supported the measures of resistance to the aggressions of the crown, and was represented in the first Continental Congress, which met in 1774. The Governor endeavored to put a stop to the “seditious” proceedings of the patriots, but without effect. A hearty cooperation was given to the cause of the United Colonies, and in MIay, 1775, a convention of the people of Mecklenburg county fornmally threw off their allegiance to Great Britain, and proclaimed the independence of North Carolina. This declaration was not generally sustained in the province, however. In July, 1775, the Governor took refuge on board a man of war in Cape Fear River, from which he issued his orders to his partisans to join him on the coast. They made several efforts to do so, being very numerous in the State. In the summer of 1775, a party of 1500
loyalists, under command of McDonald and McLeod, on their way to the coast, were met by a force of patriots, under Caswell and Moore, and routed, with a loss of 850 prisoners, including McDonald. McLeod was killed. The assembly took vigorous measures to maintain the cause of the colonies, and between August 20th, 1775, and July, 1776, ordered nine re,iments to be raised for service in the American army. In April, 1776, the delegates of the colony, in the Continental Congress, were ordered to ufinite with the delegates of the other colonies in a declaration of independence of the British crown. In December, 1776, a State Constitution was adopted. Northi Carolina was partly exempt from the horrors of the war until 1780. The successes of the British forces in Georgia encouraged a strong party of tories to rise in arms, and 700 of them set out to join the British at Augusta, Georgia. They were met and routed on their march by Pickens’ partisan band of South Carolina. Seventy of them were tried for and convicted of treason, and five of them were hanged. Two parties of tories rose in 1780. One succeeded in reaching the British outposts, but the other was dispersed. On the 9th of October, 1780, the strongest body of tories, which had yet taken arms for the king, was defeated at King’s Mountain, by a force of militia under Shelby and Sevier. They lost 150
killed, including their leader, General Fergusson, and a large number wounded. The rest, 800 in number, surrendered, and 10 of their leaders were hanged on the field. 6C,5

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. T’lhe battle of Guilfoird Court House, (March 15th, 1781,) in which General Greene was defeated, was fought in this State.

North Carolina filrnished her full quota of men during the war, and fairly won the privileges which the successful issue of the struggle brought the States. In 1784, the State ceded to the United States the territory now embraced in the State of Tennessee. The Constitution of the United States did not prove acceptable to North Carolina, and was rejected by the Convention in 1788, but was finally ratified in 1789. The sympathies of the people of North Carolina were with the South in the late war, and on the 20th of May, 1861, an ordinance of secession was adopted, and the State withdrew from the Union and joined the Southern Confederacy. Large numbers of troops were contributed to the Confederate army, and the forts along the coast were occupied. Fort Hatteras, at Hatteras Inlet, was taken by the Federal fleet in 1861, and Fort Fisher and the other defences of the Cape Fear, by the army and navy in 1865. The fall of Fort Fisher opelled the way to Wilmington, which was at once occupied by the Union army. The State was held by the various columns of Sherman’s army, in 1865, vlwhich advanced from Cheraw, South Carolina, through Fayetteville, and from Wilmington, and Morehead City, and concentrated at Goldsborough, after which they advanced on Raleigh. The Confederates made several efforts to check this advance, but were too weak to accomplish anything.

The battles of Averasboro and Bentonville were fought by the armies of Sherman and Johnston, and the latter general surrendered his forces to the former, near Raleigh, and closed the war in the State. During the war, several severe struggles occurred on the coast, the principal of which were the capture of Roanoke Island by the Union forces, and of Plymouth by the Con federates. In 1865 a Provisional Governor was appointed by the President, and in 1867 the State became a part of the “Second Mvilitary District,” commanded by Major-General Daniel E. Sickles. A State Convention was held in 1868, which adopted the present Constitution. This instrument was ratified by the people at the polls in April, and on the 25th of June, 1868, Congress formally readmitted the State into the Union.

CITIES AND TOWNTS. The principal cities and towns are, Newberne, Fayetteville, Salisbury, Charlotte, Henderson, Elizabeth City, Beaufort, Warrenton, Greensboro, Kinston, and Tarboro. 606

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.NORTH CAROLINA. CAPITOL AT RALEIGH. RALEIGH, The capital of the State, is situated in Wake county, 4 miles west of the Neuse River, 286 miles southwest of Washington, latitude 35~ 47’ N., longitude 78~ 48’ W. It is very near the centre of tihe State, and lies in the midst of a beautiful country. The site of the city is elevated, and is noted for its healthfulness. The city is well built as a rule, the central portion is occupied by a handsome park, covering 10 acres, and known as Union Square.

From this park four streets, each 100 feet in width, radiate in as many directions; these streets divide the city into four parts, each of which is a square of four acres. In Union Square stands the State Hiouse, a magnificent edifice, and one of the largest and most imposing of all the State Capitols. It is built of granite in imitation of the Parthenon, is surrounded with columns of the same material, and is crowned with a grand dome. It is 166 feet long by 90 feet wide. Raleigh also contains the Governor’s residence, and the other State buildings, the State Lunatic Asylum, and the North Carolina Institution foe the Deaf and Dumb, a Courthouse, a jail, 5 churches, and about 9 news 607

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. paper offices. It has direct railway communication with all parts of the State and the Union. Raleigh was made the capital of North Carolina in 1788. It is named after Sir Walter Raleigh. In 1870 the population was 10,149. WILMING’I’ON, The largest city in the State, is situated in New Hanover county, on the east bank of the Cape Fear River, just below the entrance of the northeast branch of the Cape Fear into the main stream. It is 34 miles from the sea, 135 miles southeast of Raleigh, and 416 miles southwest of Washington City. The city is located in a plain extending back from the river, and those of the streets that are not paved are very sandy. As a general rule the city is well built. It contains several fine public buildings, a number of churches, several public and private schools, a theatre, and about 4 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and has an efficient police force. It is the handsomest city in the State, and is regarded as a pleasant place of residence. Wilmington is the chief commercial city of North Carolina. It is connected with all parts of the Union by railway. Lines of steamers navigate the Cape Fear to Fayetteville, and steamships ply regularly between this port and the principal cities of the Northern and Southern States. Large quantities of rice, cotton, turpentine, rosin, tar, pitch, lumber, and naval stores are exported annually from Wilmington. In 1861, the year before the civil war, the tonnage of the district was 14,511 tons registered, and 10,394
licensed and enrolled. The war struck a severe blow at the commerce of the city, but it is now rapidly regaining its former proportions. The city contains a number of steam sawmills, planing and rice-mills, machine shops, and distilleries. Wilmington is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 13,446. Wilmington was originally called Newton, and was given its present name in honor of an English nobleman of that namie, who had secured Governor Johnston the government of the colony. It was settled before the Revolution, and during the war was merely an unimportant village. It was occupied by the British in January, 1781, and held by them until the close of the war. During the civil war it was strongly fortified by the Confederates, and was one of the principal ports from which they kept up their communications with Europe. It was the centre of a large blockade trade. It was blockaded by the 608

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NORTII CAROLINA. Unites States fleet during the war, but the arrival and departure of vessels from foreign ports continued with great regularity, until the capture of Fort Fisher, and the defences at the mouth of the Cape Fear, by a combined attack of the land and naval forces of the United States on the 15thl of February, 1865. Oni the 22d of the same month, Wilmington was occupied by the United States army, and remained in their possession until the close of the war. NEWBERNE, A flourishing town in Craven county, is one of the principal ports of the State. It is situated at the junction of the Neuse and Trent rivers, 50 miles from Pamlico Sound, and 120 miles southeast of Raleigh. It is a fine old town, substantially built, and attractive in al)p)earaince, and is connected with all parts of the State by railway. It is a place of considerable trade. The Neuse is a mile wide at this point, and is navigable for steamers for about 8 months in the year. The principal exports are grain, lumber, turpentine, tar, and naval stores. Newberne contains the county buildings, several churches, schools, and 2 newspaper offices. In 1870 the population was 5849. Newberne is one of the oldest towns in the State, and was at one time the capital of North Carolina. In March, 1861, it was attackled and captured by the United States forces, under General Burnside, after a sharp fight of four hours. CHARLOTTE, In Mecklenburg county, is one of the most important towns in the State. It is situated on Sugar Creek, 158 miles westsouthwest of Raleigh. It is pleasantly located in a beautifiul country, and lies in the midst of the gold region of the State. In 1838, a branch Mint was established here by the United States, for the purpose of coining the gold mined in this section. The war put an end to its.operations, and since then it has not been revived. Charlotte contains several churches and schools, 2 newspaper offices, and the county buildings. It is one of the principal railroad centres of the State, and possesses a considerable trade. In 1870 the population was 4473. Charlotte was settled before the Revolution. The famous Mecklenbnrg Convention met here in 1775, and adopted its Declaration of Independence. The British troops occupied the town in 1780, and it was here that General Greene relieved Gates of the command of the American army. 39 609

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. MISCELLANIES. ‘I’HE FIRST ENGLISH COLONY IN AMERICA.

Sir Humphrey Gilbert is entitled to the honor of planting the first English colony in America. His first expedition, on which hlie had expended miuchl of his private fortune, tailed-ft’om what cause is uncertain. The second expedition, undertaken four years afterwards, was still more unfortunate; for it lost to the world the gallant and accomplished projector of the expedition. Five vessels sailed from Plymouth on Tuesday, the 11th of June, 1583. Two days afterward, the vice-admiral complained of sickness aboard, and returned with tlhe finest ship in the fleet to Plymouth. The admiral, neverthleless, continued his course with his little squadron, and took possession, with the feudal ceremony, of Newfoundland, to be held by him as a fief of the crown of England, in accordance with the terms of his charter. Thie looseness of morals displayed by the mariners of that day is truly disgusting, and increases our wonder at the daring of men who could venture so far from homDe, in such frail barks, with almost a certainty of encountering on the great lhighway, in their fellow-men, greater perils than were presented by all the terrors of the deep. Robbery by sea was too common, and often committed in violation of the most sacred obligations, even upon persons engaged in the very act of relieving the distress of the d(lepredators.

Gilbert seems to have been cursed with a remarkably riotous and insul)ordinate company. The sick and disaffected were left at Newfoundland, to be sent home with the Swallow, and the admiral proceeded with his three remaining barks. On Tuesday, the 20thl of August, they sailed ifrom the harbor of St. John’s, and on the 29th, in about latitude 44 degrees, the largest remaining vessel, by the carelessness of the crew, struck, and went to pieces, and the other barks were forced by a high sea and a lee shore to struggle for their own preservation, which they accomplished with difficulty-alleging, at the same time, that they could see none of the crew of the wreck floating upon timbers, but all seemed to have gone down when the ship broke up. A few, however, escaped to Newfoundland in the ship’s pinnace, as was afterwards discovered. This calamity, followed by continual storms, in an unknown and shoaly sea, enhanced by an extreme scantiness of provisions, and want of clothes and comforts in the two little barks which yet remained, induced the admiral, at the earnest solicitation of his men, to return lhomeward(l. Sir Humphrey Gilbert was vehemently persuaded by the crew of the Golden Hind to remain with them during the voyage; but, as some malicious taunts had been thrown out by some evil-disposed person, accusing him of being afraid of the sea, hlie chose to continue to sail in his little pinnace, the Squirrel, which was burdened beyond her strength. After the vessels had left the Azores to the south, and reached the latitude of England, they encountered violent and continued storms. On Monday, the 9thll of Septemiber, the Squirrel was nearly cast away, but recovered, and the admiral was seen sitting abaft with a book in his hand, and heard to cry out to those in the Hind, ” We are as near to heaven by sea as by land.”

That same night, at 12 o’clock, the Squirrel being in advance, her light suddenly disappeared, and her hardy crew, with their gallant commander, sleep forever in the deep. The tlin(d reaclhed Falmnouth in safety, but after encountering imminent peril to the last moment. 610

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NORTH CAROLINA. The daring spirit of the imariners of that day is amazing.

Sir Walter Raleigh, the step-brother of Sir Humphrey Gilbert, so far from being intimidated by the melancholy fate of his relative, or disheartened by the unprofitable and disastrous termination of most of the voyages to America, undertook in the very next year an expedition to the coast of the present United States. He easily obtained one of the usual unlimited patents from Elizabeth, and, leaving the cold north, with its barren snows, its storms, icebergs, and certain evils, together with its imagin ary wealth, he spread his sails for the sweet south, where he was sure to find a fertile soil and a delightful climate, though his ship’s company might not all be enriched by the discovery of gold. On the 2dcl of July they found shoal water, ” and smelt so sweet and strong a smell, as if they had been in the midst of some delicate garden abounding with all kinds of odoriferous flowers.” On the 13thl, they entered Ocracock Inlet, on the coast of the present State of North Carolina, and landed on Wocoken Island. They commenced an inter course with the natives, who proved to be bold, confiding, intelligent, and hlonor able to their friends, but treacherous, revengeful, and cruel towards their enemies. The Englishl explored a little the surrounding islands and bays, and returned home in September, carrying with them two natives, Manteo and Wanchese. The glowing description given by the adventurers, on their return, of the beauty of the country, the fertility of the soil, and pleasantness of the climate, delighted the queen, and induced her to name the country of which she had taken possession, Virginia, in commemoration of her unmarried life. It mlight be expected that so favorable an account would soon lead to a new expedition. Accordingly, another was prepared for the succeeding year, consisting, of seven vessels. Ralph Lane was appointed by Raleighl, Governor of the colony, whlichl consisted of 105 persons. Sir Richard Grenville took command of the fleet, and several learned and accomplished men attended the expedition, one of whom has transmitted to posterity many interesting particulars of the nature of the country, and the habits, manners, and government of its inhabitants. The Englishl soon began to maltreat the harmless, unpretending, and simple natives, and they, on the other hand, to grow jealous of the power of the overbearing strangers.

They soon learned the inordinate passion of the newcomers for gold, and, taking advantage of their credulity, inflicted upon them the labor of many fruitless expeditions in search of pretended mines-hoping, at the same time, by these divisions, to weaken the power of the little colony to such a degree that they might be able to destroy it in detachment; but the English were too cautious for this, and went too short a distance, and in force too powerful for the Indians to encounter with the great disparity of arms. The greatest advantage which accrued from these expeditions, and indeed from the whole attempt at a settlement, was the discovery of Chesapeake Bay. The little colony, finding no gold, and receiving no supplies from England, had begun to despond, when most unexpectedly Sir Francis Drake arrived, on his return from his expedition against the Spaniards in South America, with a fleet of 23 ships. The sagacity of Drake perceived in a moment what was necessary for the colony, and his generosity supplied them with provisions, vessels, and other things necessary to maintain their position, extend their researches, and, if necessary, to return to England; but the accomplishment of his purpose was defeated by a violent storm which suddenly arose, and nearly wrecked his whole fleet, driving the vessel of provisions intended for the colony to sea, and 611

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. destroying the vessels which had been set apart to be left for their use. HIle would have supplied others; but the colony, with their Governor at their head, earnestly requesting permission to return to England, lie complied with their wishes. Thus terminated the first English settlement in America. This little colony, during its sojourn with the Ind(lians, had acquired something of their fondness for the use of tobacco, and learned to regard it with almost the same superstitious reverence, as a powerful medicinal agent. Upon their return, they introduced the use of this plant into England; and a weed at first disgusting and nauseating to all who use it, has become gradually the favorite luxury (and indeed with many a necessary of life) of all classes of society, and of both the young and the old throughout the world-and this, after experience has proved that in most cases it is an injury rather than a benefit to the health. T’HE GREA’IEST AMERICAN. The largest man on record was Miles Darden, a native of North Carolina, who was born in 1798, and who died in Tennessee in 1857. He was 7 feet and 6 inches high, and in 1845 weighled 872 pounds. At his death he weighed a little over 1000 pounds. In 1839, his coat was buttoned around three men, each of them weighing over 200 pounds, who walked together in it across the Square at Lexington. In 1850, it required 132 yards of cloth, 1 yard wide, to make him a coat. Until 1853 hlie was active and lively, and able to bear labor; but from that time was compelled to stay at home, or be hauled about in a two-hlorse wvagon. His coffin was 8 feet long, 35 inches deep, 32 inches across the breast, 18 inches across the head, and 14 inches across the feet. It required 24 yards of black velvet to cover the sides and lid of the coffin. Miles Darden was twice married, and his children are very large, though it is probable that none of them will ever attain the gigantic weight and size of their father. 612

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CARP-OLINA. Area,………… Population in I8S60………0 (Whites, 291,388; Negroes, 412,320) Population in 1870,……… THE State of South Carolina, one of the 13 original States of the Union, lies between 32~ and 35~ 10’ N. latitude, and between 8~ 35’ and 83~ 30’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north and northeast by North Carolina, on the southeast by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the west by Georgia. The State is almost triangular in shape. The Savannah River forms the western boundary, and separates it from Georgia; and the coast line is about 200 miles long.

TOPOGRAPHY. Along the coast, and for about 100 miles inland, the surface is low and sandy. Large swamps occupy the lower part of the State, and in this district rice is extensively cultivated. A chain of low islands of great fertility and beauty extends along the coast, separated from the mainland by a series of shallow lagoons, tlhrough which navigation is maintained between Charleston and Florida, safe froniL the violence and dangers of the sea. These islands extend down the Georgia and Florida coast, and produce the famous “Sea Island Cotton.” About 100 miles inland, a large sandy tract occurs, and is known as the “Midland country.” Bevond this is the “Ridge,” a sudden elevation, which is overtopped in the northwest by the Blue Ridge Mountains, which cross this part of the State, and attain their greatest height in Table Mountain, 4000 feet above the sea. ” From the mouth of the Great Pedee River to that of the Savannah, the coast of South Carolina is lined with a series of bays, sounds, 613

SOU LTTH ~ 34,000 Square Miles. . 703,708 . 705,163

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and lagoons, which, though mostly shallow, have sufficient depth to allow of an extensive coasting navigation. Commencing at the Great Pedee, and proceeding south, we have Winyaw Bay, at the mouth of that river; then, in order, Bull’s Bay, Charleston Harbor, St. Helena Sound, and Port Royal Entrance, with a number of smaller inlets. The harbor of Beaufort is much the best of these, admitting vessels drawing 11
feet water; Charleston Harbor is obstructed by a danger ous bar; St.

Helena Sound is the most capacious of these inlets, but is beset with shoals. Georgetown, at the head of Winyaw Bay, can only be reached by vessels of small draught; and Stono Inlet, south of Charlestonl, has but 10 feet water on the bar. The Santee River, with its main affluents, the Congaree and Wateree, passes almost directly through the middle of the State. It is about 100 miles from the junction of the Congaree and Wateree to the mouth of the Santee, and about 300 miles from their confluence to their sources in North Carolina. The Great Pedee enters the State from North Carolina (where it bears the name of Yadkin), and courses through the northeast part of South Carolina, about 150 miles, into Winyaw Bay; the Saluda and Broad rivers drain the northwest of the State, and unite to form the Congaree; the Broad River rises in the west of North Carolina; the Edisto and Combahee drain the southwest of the State, and flow into the Atlantic after courses of 150 to 200 miles; Lynch’s Creek is a tributary from the west, and Wacamaw and Little Pedee from the east of the Great Pedee; all have their sources in North Carolina. The larger streams run in a southeast direction, and fulrnish an inland navigation of about 2400 miles, apart from the creeks and inlets of the sea. The Savannah River can be navigated by steamboats to Hainburg, and for smaller boats still higher. The Wacamaw may be ascended 12 miles, the Great Pedee 200
miles, the Congaree and the Wateree about the same distances by steamboats. All these rivers are boatable above the distances mentioned, for keelI)oats. Greenville is the only district in the State without the advantage of navigation. Watercourses abound in all the districts favorable for mill-sites.” MINERALS. The Agricultural Bureau of the United States makes the following statement of the mineral resources of the State in 1868: ” Iron of superior quality, in great abundance, is found in Spartan Lippincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1814. 614

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SOUTII CAROLINA. burg, but only used for plantation purposes; ore is reported in Abbeville. Gold is found in Spartanburg, in Piekens (where a company is successfully at work, near Walhalla), in Abbeville (where’Horn’s gold mine,’ discovered in 1834, has already yielded $1,000,000, and is still worked with profit); and in York some mines have lately been sold to Northern capitalists, including some California miners. Lead, also, is found in Spartanburg, copper and silver ill Pickens, very pure ochre in Abbeville, and immense beds of kaolin and superior bluhrstone. MIarl in Barnwell contains a large percentage of lime. This district has had several manufactories of cotton, paper, etc., in profitable operation, and some are yet running successfully.” CLIMATE.

The climate of South Carolina corresponds with that of the south of France, and of Italy. The winter is mild and short, the spring is pleasant, and the heats of the summer are tempered by the cool seabreezes which sweep over the State. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil of the State is divided into six varieties; 1. The Tide Swamp, which is devoted exclusively to the culture of rice. 2. The Inland Swamp, in which grow rice, cotton, corn, and peas. 3. The Salt MIarshl, in which grows the long cotton. 4. The oak and pine, in which grow long cotton, corn, potatoes, etc. 5. The oak and hickory, growing short cotton and corn. 6. The Pine Barrens, devoted to fruits, corn, etc. A publication, recently issued by the State authorities, gives the following account of the productions of South Carolina: “The usual productions of this State are cotton, the long and short staple, rice, both swamp and upland, tobacco, indigo, sugar, wheat, rye, corn, oats, millet, barley, buckwheat, peas, beans, sorghlum, broomcorn, sunflower, guinea corn, sweet potatoes, and Irish potatoes.

Hemp, flax, and hops grow luxuriantly. Of fruits, our orchards will show apples, pears, quinces, plums, peaches, apricots, nectarines, cherries, oranges, lemons, olives, figs, pomegranates, and the American date, the persimmons, of many kinds. Of berries, we have the mulberry, raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, huckleberry, sparkleberry, and elderberry. Of nuts, we have the walnut, pecan nut, chestnut, hickory, hazel-nut, and chincapin. The grape grows luxuriantly in 615

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. RICE FIELDS, SOUTH CAROLINA. every portion of the State. In our wood(s and swamps enormous vines are found, extending to the to)nmost branches of the tallest forest-trees. Around Aiken, about 500
acres are now planted in grapes, and the quantity increases annually. The vines are healthy and vigorous. The silkworm thrives well with us, and the Aforus mu:ticaulis flourishes without any more care or attention than any of our forest-trees, and the growth is so rapid that the leaves can be used the second year after planting. The tea-plant is successfully cultivated. Of garden products, we have turnips, carrots, parsnips, artichokes, mustard, benne, rhubarb, arrow-root, water-melons, muskmelons, cucumbers, cabbages, kale, salads, peppers, squashes, tomatoes, pumpkins, onions, leeks, okra, cauliflower, beans, peas, radishes, celery, etc., etc.-in short, almost whatever can be raised in any garden inll the world.

Of flowers, we have in our gardens whatever the earth will yield in beauty and fragrance. The rose is a hedge-plant, the japonica blossoms in the open air throughout the winter, the jasmine perfumes our thickets, and the violet borders our roads.” In 1869, the principal products of the State were as follows: Pounds of rice (estimated),……. Bales of cotton,……………. Bushels of wheat……….. 616 60,000,000 220,000

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SOUTH CAROLINA. Bushels of corn………… ” 1 peas and beans,…… 1 “
sweet potatoes (estimated),.. 3 Pounds of butter,………….. The agiiculture of South Carolina was much damaged by the war. Many of the inland plantations, and nearly all along the coast were ruined, and the abolition of slavery produced serious losses by greatly demoralizing the only class of laborers available. The State is slowly recovering from its misfortunes. It has, however, a serious difficulty to contend against-the majority of its inhabitants are negroes. Whatever we may hope for them in the future, the blacks are now ill a wretched condition of ignorance and degradation, and it will require all the energy and genius of the Palmetto State to rise to the position to which it is naturally entitled.

COMMIERCE. The foreign trade of South Carolina was very large previous to the war, owing to her heavy exports of cotton and rice, much of lwhich was also shipped to the Northern States. The principal port is Charleston. In 1860, the total exports of the State amounted to $21,205,337, and the imports to $1,569,570. MANUFACTURES. Agriculture being almost the exclusive pursuit of the people, manufactures are comparatively neglected in South Carolina, though the northwestern part of the State is admirably suited to themn, having a salubrious climate, and an abundance of fine waterpower. In 1860, the aggregate capital of the manufactures of this State was $5,610,000. Thle annual product of manufactures and mining was $6,800,000. “With the raw material on the spot,” says a recent State publication, ”’ and waterpower and fuel everywhere in abundance, no better opening for the establishment of factories can anywhere be found than in South Carolina. This must be obvious to all reflecting minids. We have the cotton, the most valuable manufacturing material in the world, growing in fields on the borders of which the stream passes by, where the mill would find an effective site we have the iron ore in abundance, and the fuel near at hand, to make our own metal and build our own machinery; we have the clay for stoneware and pottery, the fine kaolin for porcelain, and the silica for glass, in many portions of the State; we have the fine-grained and hard woods in 617 8,100,000 1,728,074 3,000,000 3,177,934

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THIE GREAT REPUB1LIC. our forests for all the branches of cabinetmaking; and we have an excellent and ever-ready market for all our produce. The port of Charleston is connected by a system of railroads with all parts of the State and the vlwhole country, the harbor is safe and capacious, and is visited by vessels from all parts of the world. In addition, we have the port of Georgetown, and the magnificent Port Royal, situated in a rich and fertile region, enjoying a pleasant and salubrious climate, deep and capacious enough for the mianceuvres of the largest war-vessels in the world.” INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The railroads of South Carolina were almost destroyed by the contending armies during the war, but are now slowly but surely recovering from their prostration. In 1868, there were 988 miles of completed railroads in the State, constructed at a cost of $25,2()8,000. “

A glance at the map,” continues the publication from which we have just quoted, “will show that a railroad station is within easy reach of every corner of the State. The Charleston and Savalnnah Railroad connects us with all the principal Southern cities. The South Carolina Railroad runs up to Columbia, the capital of the State, and by a branch to Augusta, from thence forming a chain of connections with the Western States. The Greenville and Columbia Railroad, by its main line and several branches, reaches every western and northwestern section of the State, and by its connection with the Blue Ridge Railroad (which for the present terminates at the German town and settlement of Walhalla, in Pickens District), will in a few years unite us with Cincinnati, in Ohio. The Columbia and Charlotte Railroad traverses the northern sections of the State, and, by the Danville Railroad, terminates in Richmond, Virginia. The Northeastern Railroad connects with the Wilmington and Manchester Railroad, and is one of the lines of travel froln Charleston to New York. Thus it will be seen, that this State has a complete network of intercommunication, whilst connecting with every main avenue of the business and travel of this continent by direct lines.” EDUCATION. In 1860, there where 14 colleges, 226 academies and other schools and 757 public schools in the State. The University of South Carolina, at Columbia, was an institution of high reputation, and was enjoying great prosperity in 1860. The war caused the discontinu 618

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SOUTH CAROLINA. ance of all the schools, many of them having their buildings burned, and since the restoration of peace the State has been too poor to do much for the cause of education. The system of public instruction has been revised under the new Constitution, and is placed in charge of a State Superintendent, who is chosen by the people at each general election for State officers. Each county or district is in charge of one School Commissioner, chosen biennially by the people of the district. These Commissioners constitute a State Board of Education, of which the State Superintendent is ex-oficio Chairman. The Legislature is required by the new Constitution to provide a uniform system of public schools. Attendance at these or at private schools is made compulsory upon all children between the ages of 9 and 16 years, except in case of bodily or mental infirmity. The State is also required to levy taxes for the support of these schools, and for the support of a Normal School, a State University, an Agricultural College, schools for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind, and a State Reform School. A permanent school fund is also established for this purpose. In 1860, the number of volumes in the libraries of this State was 471,512, but nearly, if not fully, twothirds of these were destroyed during the war. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State is provided with a Penitentiary and Lunatic Asylum, and the Constitution makes a liberal provision for their support, and for the establishment and maintenance of such other charitable and penal institutions as may be found necessary. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, the value of church property in this State was $3,481,236. Much of this was destroyed during the war, the heaviest losses occurring in Charleston and Columbia, where nearly all the church buildings were utterly demolished. FINANCES. On the 31st of October, 1870, the total debt of the State was $7,665,908. The expenditures of the treasury from the 15th of May to the 15th of November, 1868, were $409,688, and the receipts for the same period were $435,373.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. There were at the same time 3 National Banks, with a capital of $685,000, doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of the State was adopted in 1868. Every mnale citizen of the United States, 21 years old, without regard to race, color, or former condition, who has resided in the State one year and in the county six months, is a voter. The disfranchised are paupers, convicts, persons of unsound mind, and persons disqualified by the Constitution of the United States. The Government is vested ill a Governor and LieutenantGovernor, who must be 30 years old, and two years a resident of the State. They are elected by the people biennially. The other executive officers are a Secretary of State, Treasurer and Receiver-General, Auditor, and AttorneyGeneral, elected by the people for four years. The Legislature consists of a Senate (of 31 members) and House of Representatives (of 124
members). The Senators are elected for four years, onehalf retiring every two years. Representatives are chosen biennially. “The judicial power of the State is vested in a Supreme Court; ill two Circuit Courts, viz: a Court of Common Pleas, having civil jurisdiction, and a Court of General Sessions, with criminal jurisdiction only; in Probate Courts, and in justices of the peace. The General Assembly may also establish such municipal and other inferior courts as may l)e deemed necessary. The Supreme Court is to consist of a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices, chosen by a joint vote of the General Assembly for a term of six years.

The Circuit Judges are to be chosen in the same manner, and hold office four years. A Court of Probate is to be established in each county, the judge of which shall be chosen by a vote of the people for a term of two years. Justices of the peace are elected by the people, and have jurisdiction of all cases where the amount involved does not exceed one hundred dollars.” The seat of Government is located at Columbia. For purposes of government, the State is divided into 30 districts or counties. HISTORY. The State was first settled by a band of French Huguenots under Jean Ribault, who, in May, 1562, planted a colony on a beautiful island in a spacious inlet, which he named Port Royal. The sur 620

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SOUTHr CAROLINA. rounding country he called Carolina, in honor of Charles IX., of France. He left 26 persons in this colony, and went back to Europe; but the settlers became dissatisfied, mutinied, killed their commandant, abandoned the enterprise, and sailed for France in a rude vessel which they had built. Their vessel proved a failure, and, after suffering great hardships and privations, they were rescued by an English ship, and carried to Europe. A permanent colony was planted at Port Royal by the English in 1670. The settlers removed, in 1671, to the site of old Charleston, on the west side of the Ashley River, and in 1680 again removed to the point of land between the Cooper and Ashley rivers, and founded the present city of Charleston. The province grew rapidly, and under the general name of Carolina was united with the settlements in North Carolina, under one Government, the nature of which we have already described in the last chapter. In 1729, the king bought out the proprietors, and South Carolina came into existence as a separate royal province. By this time it had been well settled by a considerable number of French Huguenots, and Swiss, Irish, and German emigrants. The colony was greatly harassed during its infancy by the savages, and united with Georgia in putting a stop to the depredations of the Spaniards, who had settled Florida and were guilty of many outrages upon their English neighbors. The province was one of the most prominent in the measures of resistance to British aggression adopted by the colonies, and in the summer of 1775 repulsed a British fleet under Sir Peter Parker, which sought to force an entrance into Charleston Harbor. The State was the scene of many desperate and bloody encounters during the war. Charleston was taken by the British, who held the country for nearly two years, during which the partisan bands of Marion, Sumter, and Pickens maintained a constant and bloody guerilla warfare against tlhem, and against their Tory adherents, of whidil the State contained large numbers. The battles of Camden, Entaw Springs, and the Cowpens were fought in South Carolina, which State maintained its ancient reputation for bravery and patriotism throughout the whole struggle. The original Constitution of the State was adopted in March, 1776, and the Constitution of the United States was ratified in May, 1798. The State grew rapidly in wealth and importance after the formationI of the Federal Union. Negro slavery increased rapidly. Tlhe numnber of slaves in 1790 was 107,094, and in 1860, 402,406, while 621

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TrHE GREAT REPUBLIC. the white population had increased only 107 per cent.

in 70 years, being 140,178 in 1790, and 291,388 in 1860. In the latter year, the free and slave negroes constituted nearly 60 per cent. of the whole population. Being a strictly agricultural community, the State was naturally averse to the high tariff system so popular in the manufacturing States of the North, and, as we have seen elsewhere in this book, carried its opposition to the tariff measures of the General Government to the verge of open war. From that time it bI)ecame the leader of the extreme States’ Rights party of the South, and upon various occasions threatened to secede from the Union. In December, 1860, after the election of Abraham Lincoln to the Presidency, the State seceded from the Union. The ordinance of secession was adopted by the State Convention, on the 20th of December, 1860. The forts, arsenals, and public property of the United States in South Carolina were seized and occupied by the State forces, except Fort Sumter, in Charleston Harbor, which was held by a detachment of the Federal army. Hostilities began in the bombardment and capture of this fort by the Confederates in April, 1861. During the war Charleston was besieged by the United States army, and its harbor blockaded by the navy.

Several severe battles occurred in its immediate vicinity, but all the efforts of the fleet to reduce its defences were repulsed. In the summer of 1863, the defences of James Island were captured, and from that titie the city was subjected to a severe bombardment, which laid a large part of it in ruins. It was held by the Confederates until Sherman’s movemnents compelled them to evacuate it. As they left it they set fire to it, and nearly the whole city was destroyed. It was at once occupied by the Union troops. Port Royal Harbor was the scene of a severe naval bombardment in the fall of 1861. The Confederate forts. defending the entrance were captured, and the harbor and its islands held during the war. After reaching Savannah at the close of his march from Atlanta, Sherman moved his army through this State, from the neighborhood of Port Royal to beyond Cheraw. His troops destroyed immense quantities of property, and damaged the State to a terrible extent. The capital, Columbia, was fired (the origin of the fire still remaining a disputed question) and almost entirely destroyed. After the close of the war, a Provisional Government was appointed by the President. A State Convention was held, a new Constitution 622

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SOUT’H CAROLINA. framed, and an excellent system of Government established. Congress, howvever, denied the right of the President to make such changes, and in 1867 abolished the new order of affairs, and organized the State into a military district, the commnand of which was given to MAajor-General Daniel E. Sickles. In August, 1867, General Sickles was removed, and General Canby put in his place. In January, 1868, a State Convention met at Charleston and adopted a Constitution, which was ratified by the people, and on the 25th of June, 1868, the State was readmitted into the Union. CITIES AND TOWNS. The principal cities and towns, besides the capital, are Charleston, Georgetown, Camden, Greenville, Orangeburg, and Winnsboro. COLUMBIA, The capital and second city of the State, is situated in Richland district, or county, on the east bank of the Congaree, just below the confluence of the Broad and Saluda rivers. Latit(ude 330 57t NT., longitude 81~ 7’ W. It is 124 miles north-northwest of Charleston, and 500 miles southwest of Washington.

Columbia is one of the most beautiful cities in the Union. It is handsomely built, its streets are well paved, and are broad, straight, and shaded with stately trees, among which the magnolia and the live oak are conspicuous. It is located on the bluffs of the Congaree, a few miles below the falls of that stream, and is noted for the elegant mansions and exquisite gardens with which it abounds. The vicinity of the city is one of the most highly cultivated portions of the Union, and is noted for its model plantations, as well as for its finle scenery. The public buildings are among the handsomest in the country. The State Itoitse is a magnificent edifice, 170 feet long and 60 feet wide, and cost nearly three millions of dollars. Tile Insane Asylumn is under the control of the State. It is a splendid building and is richly endowed. The city buildings are handsome. Columbia contains a number of fine public and private schools. The South Carolina College, sometimes called the University of South Carolina, is a flourishing institution. IHere are located a theological school of the Presbyterian Church, and a Roman Catholic College. The city is supplied with pure water, and is lighted with gas. It is governed by a Mayor anid Council. It contains a number of churches and 3 newspaper offices. In 1870 the population was 9298. 623

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Columibia is at the head of steamboat navigation on the Congaree River, and is connected withl all parts of the Union by railways. It is the centre of a large cotton trade. The city was occupied by the forces of General Sherman on the 17th of February, 1865. On the same day a disastrous fire occurred, which laid a large portion of the city in ashes. CHARLESTON, The largest city and the metropolis of the State, is situated in Charleston district, or county, at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper rivers, which unite to form its harbor. It is 7
miles from the sea, 124 miles south-southeast of Columbia, and 540 miles southwest of Washington. The city is built upon a plateau elevated about 12 feet above the level of the water. The tides rise to a height of 6
feet, and sweep by the city with a strong current, thus contributing greatly to its healthfulness. The Cooper and Ashley rivers are from 30 to 40 feet deep, the former is 4200, and the latter 6300 feet wide. The harbor is spacious, and will admit vessels drawing 17 feet water. “The cOUp d’eil is imposing and highly picturesque. Though the grounds are low, hardly more than 12 feet above high water, the effect is fine; and the city, like Venice, seems, at a little distance, to be absolutely rising out of the sea. The bay is almost completely land-locked, making the harborage and roadstead as secure as they are ampl)le. The adjuncts contribute to form a tout ensemble of much beauty. Directly at the entrance of the city stands Castle Pinckney, a fortress which covers an ancient shoal. A little south of Pincekley is Fort Ripley, a small square work, built of Palmetto logs, and filled with paving stones, built in 1862. On the sea-line rises Fort Moultrie, famous, as Fort Sullivan, in beating off, and nearly destroying, the British fleet, under Sir Peter Parker, in 1776. On the eastern extremity of the same island (Sullivan’s), on which Fort Moultrie stands, may yet be traced the outline of the fortress which, under Colonel Thompson, with 700 Carolina rifles, defeated Sir Henry Clinton at the very moment when Moultrie drove Parker away from the South. Within the harbor the most conspicuous object, and the one also of commanding interest, is the ruined walls of Sumter. This fort, with that of Mouitrie, once constituted the chief defences of Charleston. The events and operations of which these massive ruins have formed the chief centre and culminating point are too fresh in the public recollection to 624

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SOUTHII CAROLINA. CHARLESTON. require more than a brief retrospect in these pages. The fort, which is an octagonal work of solid masonry, stands in the middle of the harbor. The armament consisted, at the time of the attack, of 140 guns. It was occupied by Major Anderson on the night of December 26, 1860, and at noon of the 27th the Union flag was hoisted over it. On the 11th of January following, Governor Piekliens demanded a surrender of the fort, which being refilsed, preparations were conmmenced to attack it. Fire was opened under direction of General G. T. Beauregard at 4.30 o’clock A. M., April 11th, 1861, from the batteries on James Island. After a defence of thirty-two hours the garrison surrendered, and were transported to New York ill the steamer Baltic. The present condition of the work sufficiently attests the warmth of the second attack, August, 1863. On James Island are seen the ruins of old Fort Johnson. On the opposite headlands of the Haddrill you may trace the old lines which helped in the defence of the city eighty years ago, but which are now mostly covered by the smart village of Mount Pleasant. These points, north, east, and southl, with the city lying west of them, bound the harbl)or, leaving an ample circuit of biay-coursinig over which, from 40

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. south to north, the eye pursues the long stretch of Cooper River, the Etiwando of the red men, along the banks of which, for many miles, the sight is refreshed by noble rice-fields, and in many places by the mansions and homesteads of the former planters. Steamers ply up this river, and return the same day, affording a good bird’s-eye view of the settlements, along a very picturesque shore line on either hand. It was up this river that Mr. Webster distinguished himself by shooting an alligator, or rather shooting at him-the alligator diving at the shot, and leaving the matter sufficiently doubtful to enable an old lawyer and politician to make a plausible case of it. Standing on James Island, or on the battlements of Fort Sumter, the eye notes the broad stream of the Ashley, winding from west of the city, round its southernmost point, to mingle with the waters of the Cooper. The Ashley was anciently a region of great wealth and magnificence. It is still a river of imposing aspect-broad, capacious, with grassy, well-wooded banks, beyond which you may still behold some antique and noble edifices.” The city is regularly built, and is about 2 miles long by about 1 miles in width. The streets are not very wide, but are laid off regularly, and the city is one of the best built in the country. The principal streets are Meeting and King.

These run north and south, nearly parallel, the whole length of the city.

Meeting street is 60 feet wide, and on it is transacted the principal business of the city. It contains some of the handsomest public buildings, and the leading hotels. King street is much narrower, and is the principal shopping street. “A large proportion of the population of Charleston consists of the gentry of the contiguous parishes, who, possessing large planting interests, are sufficiently opulent to maintain abodes in the city as well as on their plantations. Here they educate their children, and hither they resort in midsummer. This is the secret of something anomalous inl the life of Charleston. It is resorted to in summer as a wateringplace by the people of the country. This practice will account for some of those characteristics which are thouight to be peculiar to the city. The planters bring with them wealth and leisure, and these naturally beget luxurious tastes and habits. These elevate the tone of society, but tend to the disparagement of labor and industry. Hence extravagant standards of living, and deficient enterprise as well as industry. “The city covers a considerable extent of territory, more than its 6‘26

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SOUTIH CAROLINA. number of people would seem to imply, as in other cities, ill consequence of the suburban character of so many of the residents. The dwelling-houses of these are generally isolated, having large open g,‘oun(ds on every side, whichl are used for gardens. Rare exotics, the finer fruits, the peach, the nectarine, the orange, fill these spaces, and, with the vine, impart a rich, tropical character to the aspect of the abode, which itself may be neither very large nor very magnificent. Ample piazzas and verandahs, ranging from 1 to 3 stories, give coolness and shade to the dwelling. The houses are of brick or wood; there are few of stone. Charleston exhibits a peculiar taste in architecture. It is like no other city in the Union in this respect. There are few regular blocks or rows of buildings. There is no uniformity. Each man has built after his own fashion; and there are some singular emanations of taste; but what is lost in propriety is gained in variety, and with fine gardens, open plats of shrubbery, shade and fruit trees, the orange, peach, etc., creepers, vines, the rich foliage of the magnolia, the oak, the cedar, the Pride of India, girdling the lwhite dwellings and the green verandahs, the effect is gratefiul and highly picturesque.” Scattered through the city are a number of small public squares, the principal of which, the Battery, commands a fine view of the harbor. The public buildings are numerous and handsome. The most conspicuous are the City Hall, Court House, Police Court, Custom House, Jail, TlVorkhotse, and South Carolina Hall. The schools of Charleston have always been famous. They embrace all classes, from the public primary school to colleges of a high grade. The principal establishments of the higher class are the Military Acctde),y, conducted by the State (onehalf of its pupils being State or free students); the Chtarleston College, founded in 1788; and the MIedical College of the State of South Carolina. The city contains several fine libraries, among which are the Mericantile, -‘Apprentices, and City Libraries. The Art Society and HIistorical Society are excellent institutions, and each possesses a valuable collection of works relating to its objects. The benevolent establishments are well conducted. They consist of an Ablshottse, an Or])han Asylum, and a Hospital, together with several humane and charitable societies. The cemeteries are among the most beautiful in the world, and are greatly admired. The city contains over 30
churches, several fine hotels, about 4 daily newspapers, and several weeklies. It is lighted with gas, and is sup 627

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. plied with water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 48,956. During the late war, the city was subjected to a severe bombard ment from the United States batteries on the bay islands, and was se verely injured. It is now slowly recovering from this damage, and the old buildings are being replaced with better and more convenient edifices. Charleston is connected with the principal cities of the Union by railway, and by steamers with the Atlantic and Gulf ports. It is the centre of a large coasting trade, and possesses some foreign commerce. It exports more rice than any other city in the Union, and is next to New Orleans and Mobile in its exportation of cotton. It has also a large trade in tobacco, lumber, and flour. Considerable shiplping is owned in the port. The commerce of the city was entirely destroyed by the late war, but is now rapidly reviving. Charleston was settled about the year 1679, by an Englishl colony acting under a charter from the British Crown. The expedition was led by W\illiam Sayle, who became the first Governor. Some years later the settlers were joined by a number of French Huguenots, who had been exiled from their native country on account of their religion. Its growth was greatly retarded by the fierce fevers incident to the southern coast, and by many other difficulties; but it surmounted these, and by 1731 contained 600 houses and 5 churches. It took -n active part in the troubles of the Revolution, and, although it contained a large number of persons devoted to the royal authority, sided with the colonies. On the 24th of June, 1776, a British fleet under Sir Peter Parker, consisting of 9 ships of war, attacked the American fort on Sullivan’s Island, which commanded the entrance to the hlarbor. The fort was unfinished and badly armed, and was garrisoned by only 400 men under Colonel Mioultrie. The British were repulsed with severe loss, and camne near losing their fleet. Ial 1778, a severe fire consumned 252 houses. On the 1st of April, 1780, Charleston was besieged by the British under Sir Henry Clinton. It was defended by General Lincoln and a small American force, who held out until May 12th, when they surrendered, half the city being in ruins and the people starving. The British held the city until 1782. In 1783, Charleston was incorporated as a city. In 1796, it was again ravaged by a fire, which destroyed nearly a third part of the city and property to the amount of $2,500,000. Charleston was the centre of the Secession movement which resulted 628

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SOUTH CAROLINA. in the civil war. The beginning of hostilities-the bombardment and capture of Fort Sumter-occurred here. The harbor was closely blockaded during the war, and the defences of the city were frequently attacked by land and sea, and the city itself was subjected to a severe and destructive bombardment. After a long and desperate siege, it was recaptured by the United States forces on the 18th of February, 1865.

MISCELLANY. AN INCIDENT IN THE LIFE OF SERGEANT JASPER. Jasper had a brother, who had joined the British, and who held a similar rank in the army. To this brother he was warmly attached, and actually ventured into the British garrison at Ebenezer to see him. His brother was exceedingly alarmed, lest he should be seized and hung as an American spy; for his name was well known to many of the British officers. “Do not trouble yourself;” said Jasper; “I am no longer an American soldier.” ‘Thank God for that, William,” exclaimed his brother, heartily shaking him by the hand; ” and now only say the word, my boy, and here is a commission for you, with regimentals and gold to boot, to fight for His Majesty, King George.” Jasper shook his head, and observed, that though there was but little encouragement to fighlit for his country, he could not find it in his heart to fight against her. And there the conversation ended. After staying two or three days with his brother, inspecting and hearing all that he could, he took his leave, returned to the American camp by a circuitous route, and told General Lincoln all that he had seen. Soon after he made another trip to the English garrison, taking with him his particular firiend, Sergeant Newton, who was a young man of great strength and courage. His brother received him with his usual cordiality; and he and his friend spent several days at the British fort without giving the least alarm. On the morning of the third day, his brother observed that he had bad news to tell him. “Ay! what is it?” asked William. ‘“Why,” replied his brother, “Ihere are ten or a dozen American prisoners, broughlt in this morning, as deserters from Savannah, whither they are to be sent immediately; and, from what I can learn, it will be apt to go hard’with themfor it seems tlhey have all taken the king’s bounty.” “Let us see them,” said Jasper. So his brother took him and his friend Newton to see them. It was indeed a melancholy sight to see the poor fellows handcuffed upon the ground. But when the eye rested on a young woman, wife of one of the prisoners, wIth her child, a sweet little boy of five years, all pity for the male prisoners was forgotten. Her humble garb showed that she was poor; but her deep distress, and sympathy with her unfortunate husband, proved that she was rich in conjugal love, more precious than all gold.

She generally sat on the ground opposite to her husband, with her little boy leaning on her lap, and her coal black hair spreading in long, neglected tresses on her neck and bosom. Sometimes she would sit, silent as a statue of grief, her eyes fixed upon the 629

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. earth: then she would start with a convulsive throb, and gaze on her hlusbalcnd’s face with looks as piercing sad as if she already saw him struggling in the halter, herself a widow, and her son an orphlan. While the child, distressed by his mothler’s anguish, added to the pathos of the scene by the artless tears of childish suffering.

Thoulgh Jasper and Newton were undaunted in the field of battle, their feelings were subdued by such heart-stirring misery. As they walked out into the neighboring wood, the tears stood in the eyes of bothl. Jasper first broke silence. “Newton,” said he, ” my days have been but few; but I believe their course is nearly finished.” ” Why so, Jasper?” ” IWhy, I feel that I must rescue those poor prisoners, or die with them, otherwise, the remembranlce of that poor womanl and her child will haunt me to my grave.” “That is exactly what I feel, too,” replied Newton; “and here is my hand and heart to stand by you, miy brave friend, to the last drop.

Thank God, a man can die but once; and why should we fear to leave this life in the way of our duty?” The friends embraced each other, and entered into the necessary arrangements for futlfilling their desperate resolution. Immediately after breakfast, the prisoners were sent on their way to Savannlah, under the guard of a sergeant and corporal, with 8 menl.

They had not been gone long, before Jasper, accompanied by his fiiend Newton, took leave of his brother, and set out on some pretended errand to the upper country. They had scarcely got out of sight of Ebenezer, before they struck into the woods, and pushed hard after the prisoners and their guard, whom they closely dogged for several miles, anxiously watchling an opportunity to make a blow. The hope, indeed, seemed extravagant; for what could two unarmed men do against ten, equipped with loaded muskets, and bayonets? However, unable to give up their countrymen, our heroes still travelled on. About 2 miles from Savannah, there is a famous spring generally called the Spa, well known to travellers, who often stopped there to quench their thirst. ” Perhaps, ” said Jasper, ” the guard may stop there. ” Hastening on through the woods, they gained the Spa, as their last hope, and there concealed themselves amiong the thick bushes that grew around the spring. Presently, the mournful procession came in sight of the spring, where the sergeant ordered a halt. Hope sprung afresh in the bosoms of our heroes, though no doubt mixed with great alarms; for “it was a fearful odds.” The corporal, w-ithl his guard oft four men, conducted the prisoners to the spring, while the sergeant, with the other four, hlaving grounded their arms near the road, brought up the rear. The prisoners, wearied with their long walk, were permitted to rest themselves on the earth. Poor Mlrs. Jones, as usual, took her seat opposite to her husband, and her little boy, overcome with fatigue, fell asleep in her lap. Two of the corporal’s men were ordered to keep guard, and the other two to give the prisoners drink out of their canteens. These last approached the spiing, where our heroes lay concealed, and, resting their muskets against a pine tree, dclipped up water. Having drunk themselves, they turned away with replenished canteens, to give to the prisoners also.

“Now, Newton, is our time,” said Jasper. Then, bursting like lions from their concealment, they snatched up the two muskets that were resting against the pine, and in an instant shot down the two soldiers who were upon guard. It was now a contest who should get the loaded muskets that 630

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SOUTL’H CAROLINA. fell from the hands of the slain; for by this time a couple of brave Englislhmen, recovering from their momentary panic, had sprung and seized upon the muskets; but before they could use them, the swift-hlanded Americans, with clubbed guns, levelled a final blow at the heads of their brave antagonists. The tender bones of the skull gave way, and down they sunk, pale and quivering, without a groan. Then hastily seizing the muskets, which had thus a second time fallen from the hands of the slain, they flew between their surviving enemies and their weapons, grounded near the road, and ordered theim to surrender; whichl they instantly did. They then snapped the handcuffs off the prisoners, and armed them with muskets. At the commencement of the fight, poor Mrs. Jones had fallen to the earth in a swoon, and her little son stood screaming piteously over her. But, when she recovered, and saw her husband and his firiends freed from their fetters, she behaved like one frantic with joy.

She sprung to her hlusband’s bosom, and, with her arms round his neck.

sobbed out, ” My husband is safe-bless God, my husband is safe.” Then, snatchinlg up her child, she pressed him to her heart, as she exclaimed, “

Thank God! my son has a father yet.” Then, kneeling at the feet of Jasper and Newton, she pressed their hands vehemently, but in the fullness of her heart she could only say, ” God bless you! God Almighty bless you!” For fear of being retaken by the English, our heroes seized the arms and reginmentals of the dead, and, with their firiends and captive foes, recrossed the Savannah, and safely joined the American army at Parisburgh, to the inexpressible astonishment and joy of all. 631

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GEORGIA. Area,..S i…… Population in 1860,……… (Whites, 591,588.

Negroes, 465,698) Population in 1870,…… THE State of Georgia, the most southern of the original members of the Union, lies betweeln 30~ 21’ 39”

and 35~ N. latitude, and between 81~ and 85~ 53’ 38” W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by North Carolina and Tennessee, on the east by South Carolina, and the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by Florida, and on the west by Florida and Alabama. The Savannah River separates it from South Carolina, and the Chattahoochee forms a part of the western boundary, separating the lower half of the State from Alabama and Florida. The greatest length of Georgia, from north to south, is about 300 miles, and its greatest width, from east to west, about 250 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. Along the coast, and for about 100 miles inland, the surface is flat and marshy, resembling the lower part of South Carolina. Rice is largely cultivated hered. A fine rolling country occupies the centre of the State, while the northern and northwestern parts are traversed by the ranges of the Blue Ridge Mountains, which vary in height from 1200 to 4000 feet. The southeastern part contains a series of swamps, having a circuit of about 180 miles, known under the general name of Okefonokee Swamp. This is one of the wildest and rankest tracts in the South, and abounds in alligators, lizards, cranes, snakes, etc. The coast is lined with a chain of islands, similar to those of South Carolina, which produce the Sea Island cotton.

The 632 58,000 Square Miles. 1,057,286 1,195,338

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GEORGIA. waters lying between these islands and the shore constitute an inner passage along the coast, and are navigable for light draft vessels.

The coast is deeply indented with inlets, some of which afford good harbors. The Savannah River, which separates the State from South Carolina, is formed by the Tugaloo and Seneca rivers. It is about 500
miles long, and is navigable for large steamboats to Augusta, 230 miles firom the sea. Ships ascend to Savannah, about 15 miles from its mouth. It is lined with fine cotton and rice plantations, and above Augusta is an excellent mill stream. The Ogeechee River flows almost parallel with it, and empties into Ossabaw Sound, a short distance south of Savannah. It is navigable for small vessels for 30 or 40 miles, and for flatboats to Louisville, near the centre of the eastern part of the State. Its principal branch, the Cannouchee, is navigable for small vessels for 50
miles. The Altamnaha River flows into the Atlantic, south of the Ogeechee.

It is formed by the Oconee and Ocnmulgee, which, rising in the northern part and flowinvg through central Georgia, unite about 100 miles from the sea, and form the Altamaha. The main river is ascended by ships to Darien, not far from its mouth. The Ocmulgee is navigable for small steamers to Macon, and the Oconee to Milledgeville, the capital of the State-each nearly two hundred miles from the sea. The Santilla and St. Mary’s drain the extreme southeastern part of the State, and are navigable for small vessels for about 30 or 40 miles, and much higher for flatboats. The Chattahooehee River rises in the Blue Ridge Mountains, in Habersham county, in the extreme northeastern corner of the State. Flowing southwest to West Point, it strikes the boundary between Georgia and Alabanma, and turns to the south, washing the western shore of the State to its southern extremity, where it empties into the Appalachicola River, of Florida. It is about 550 miles long, and is navigable for steamers, from November to June, to Columbus, 350 miles from its mouth. The rapids begin at Columbus.

The upper part of the river flows through the gold region of Georgia, and is a fine mill stream. The tlint River is its principal branch. It rises in the western part of the centre of the State, and flows southwest into the Chattahoochee, just above the mouth of that river. It is about 300
miles long, and is navigable for steamers to Albany. The other rivers are the Tallapoosa and Coosa, the sources of the Alabama, in the northwest, the Hiawassee, one of the sources of the Tennessee, in the north, and the Ocklockony and Suwanee and their branches, in the south, which flow into Florida. 633

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T’HIE GREAT REPUBLIIC. MINERALS. The minerals of this State are gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, manganese, titanium, graphite, autimony, zinc, granite, marble, gypsum, limestone, coal, sienite, marl, burrstone, soapstone, slate, jasper, amethyst, chalcedony, cornelian, agate, rose quartz, garnets, and several others more or less valuable. Dianlond(s are sometimes found. The gold region lies in the northern part of the State, principally in and around Lumnpkin county. Until the discovery of gold in California, it was the principal source of our supply. Previous to the war, the General Government maintained a branch mint at Dahlonega, in the centre of the gold region. In 1852, $476,788 were coined at this mint.

These mines are far from being exhausted, and are worked now with considerable profit. “The white marble quarries of Cherokee county are of great extent, a portion of them affording statuary marble. The slate quarries of Polk county are now attracting much attention. The slate is considered equal to the Welsh, and is now being shipped to New York. The quarry is of enormous extent. Hydraulic cement, nearly white in color, and of excellent quality, is made near Kingston, Bartow county. The indications of petroleum in Floyd county are strong. That section has been thrown up in the wildest confusion. The formation is the lower silurian, abounding in fossils, and both the limestone and shale are highly bituminous. Iron ore abounds in Bartow and other counties.” CLIMATE. The climate of Georgia is the most delightful of any of the far Southern States. The southern and southeastern parts are coole(d by the sea breeze, and the mountain regions are, though severe in winter, delightfully cool in summer. The sp)rilng comes early and is pleasant. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.

The soil along the coast and the rivers is fertile, and produces almost any variety of food. About 65 or 70 miles from the coast, the Pine Barren region begins. This soil is naturally poor, but is easily fertilized. It produces valuable timber and naval stores. In the southwestern part of the State, the soil is light and sandy, but, although fertile, is easily-worn out, and requires careful manuring. 634

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GEORGIA. In the middle counties the soil consists of a red loamt originally fert ile, but greatly exhausted by t he ba d system of agriculture pursued in the State. The northern part of th e State is very fertile, and will p r o d u c e cotton, but is mmuch better adapted to the growth of grain, to w h i c h it is principally devoted. Cotton is raised in tile central and southern counties, and rice al ong the c oast and the lower parts of the principal rivers. The great extent of navigable rivers in this State re nder s it easy to bring tile crops to mLi arket, and thus lightecns tile burdlens of the producer. Grailn is extensively grown in this State. The greater part of the cotton region can he tilled by white labor, but here and elseNlwhere, rice requires a cultivation which would be ihtal to white laborers. The agricultural interests of Georgia were fearfully damaged by the civil war, and the State is but slowly recovering firom its losses. The statistics of 1869, the latest availal)le, are very imperfect. Th cy are as follows: Acres of iimproved land,.. Bushels of wheat,.. ” rye,….. oats,…… Indian corn,.. ” barley,.. ” potatoes,…

peas and beans, Tons of hay,……. Nuamber of horses…. ” mules and asses, millch cows,.. young cattle,.. swine,…. Value of domestic animnals,. Bales of cotton,……. Pounds of rice (estimated),. COMMERCE.

At the commencement of the civil war, Georgia was building up) a valuable and growing trade with the Northern States and with Europe. In 1860, the foreign exports of the State amounted to $18,483,038, and the imports to $782,061. MANUFACTURES. With an enterprise which won her the title of the “Empire State of the Southi,” Georgia was making great progress in mIanufitctures 635 8,062,7D-8 2,170,()I)() 1,200,0()O 27,500,000 13,300

248,000 1,965,212 48,000 198,300 200,1.50 301,180 780,350 2,150,300

$45,372,734 495,000 30,000,000

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. when the war broke out. Nearly all her establishments were either entirely destroyed, crippled, or forced to suspend operations by the events of the struggle. The State possesses unusual advantages for mnaniufactures, and there can be little doubt that it will in a few years begin to develop this branch of its industry with its old energy. In 1860, there were 1724 establishments in Georgia devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing a capital of $11,160,000. There were 32
cotton mills (30 of which were driven by waterpower), with a capital of $1,854,603, yielding an annual product of $2,215,636; and 28 woollen factories, with a capital of $174,600, yielding an annual product of $465,000. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, there were 1437 miles of completed railroads in Georgia, constructed at a cost of $29,178,000. The principal towns of’ the State are connected by railroad. Two main lines extend across the centre of the State, from Savannah to Macon and Columbus, and from Augusta to Atlanta and Chattanooga, Tenn. Three roads centre at Savannah, three at Augusta, three at Columbus, three at Macon, and four at Atlanta. By means of these and their branches, all parts of the State and the Union may be reached with ease and rapidity. Nearly every road in the State was destroyed during the war, but almost all have been restored since the return of peace. EDUCATION. In 1860, the State contained 32 colleges, averaging over 100 students each; 242 academies and other schools, with 11,075 pupils; and 1752 public schools; with 56,087
pupils. The schools were broken up by the war, and it was not until very recently that anything was done to restore them. The present Constitution places the system of public education under the control of a State School Commissioner, appointed by the Governor and confirmed by the Senate, for a period of four years. A permanent school fund has been authorized, which now amounts to $242,000, and the Legislature is required to establish at least one or more common schools in each school district of the State as soon as possible, and to levy taxes for their support. The University of Georgia is located at Athens, and was founded in 1801. It includes Franklin College, and is in a prosperous con 636

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GEORGIA. dition. It is an excellent school, and possesses a library of 13,000 volumes, a valuable and complete chemical apparatus, and one of the best cabinets of mineralogy and geology in the Union. Ogletho1pe University, at Milled(geville; Mercer University, at Renfield; Emiory College, at Renfield; and the Wesleyan Female College, at Macon, are the other prominent schools. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The Stace Penite)ntiary, at Milledgeville, was established in 1811, and was provided with fine and commodious buildings of granite. It was destroyed during the war, but has been partially rebuilt since the peace. The $S(tte Lunatice Asylum is located at Medway, near Milledgeville. It was established in 1842. Blacks as well as whites are admitted. The institution is provided with ample and substantial buildings, and is now doing well. The Aca(demy for the Blin(l, at Macon, is an excellent institution. It is provided with handsome brick buildings, and is in successful operation. The Asyltmn for the Deaf and Dumb, in Murray county, in the northern part of the State, was closed during the war, and has not yet been reopened. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 2393 churches in Georgia. The total value of church property was $2,440,391, much of which was destroyed during the war.

FINANCES. In 1870, the debt of the State amounted to $6,014,500, and had not been increased since 1867. The State, according to the assertion of the Governor, possesses valuable assets to the amount of $12,000,000. In 1869, the receipts of the State Treasury amounted to $2,183,9.0, and the expenditures to $1,857,825. The finances of Georgia are in a very unhappy condition. A portion of the public debt was overdue in 1870, and no provision had been made for its payment, and the credit of the State had been considerably damaged by the quarrels between the Governor and the Treasurer. In 1868, there were 8 National Banks in Georgia, with an aggregate capital of $1,600,000. 637

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T tIE GREA,T REPUBLIC. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of the State was ratified by the people on the 20th of April, 1868. Every nmale person, born ill the United States, or who has been naturalized, or who has legally declared his intention to become a citizen of the United States, twentyone years ol(l, who has resided in the State one year, and in the county thirty days, who has paid taxes, and every male citizen of the United States, who was a resident of this State at the time of the adoption of this ConIstitntion, is entitled to vote at the elections.

Soldiers and sailors in the service of the United States, idiots, insane persons, and convicts are excluded from the ballot. The Government is vested in a Governor, chosen by the people for four years, a Secretary of State, Treasurer, Comnptroller-General, and AttorneyGeneral, elected for four years by the General Assemtbly, and a Legislature, composed of a Senate (of 44 members) and House of Representatives (of 175 miemhers).

Senators are elected for four years, onehalf retiring biennially, and Representatives for two years. “The Judicial powers of the State are vested in a Supreme Court, Superior Courts, Courts of Ordinary, Justices of the Peace, Comniis. sioned( Notaries Public, and such other courts as may be established by law. The Supreme Court consists of three judges, and has jurisdiction only for the trial and correction of errors on appeal friom lower courts. The judges are to be appointed, those of the Supreme Court for 12 years, and those of the Superior Courts for 8 years.” The seat of Government is located at Atlanta. For purposes of government, Georgia is divided into 132 counties. HItSTORY. Georg,ia was the last settled of the thirteen original colonies. It was at first included within the charter of Carolain, and was the ol)jeet of rival claims oii the part of Spain and England. On the 9th of July, 1732, George II. of England, after whom the province was namied, granted it to a corporation, who were styled “Trustees for settling the colony of Georgia.” It was designed to make this colony a refuge for the respectable poor of England. The first colony was planted at Savannah, in the spril( of 1733, )y General James Oglethorpe, butt the condition of military service was attached to the possession of lands by the colonists, and had the effect of driving the best settlers from the colony, and in 1734 the system was changed, 638

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GEORGIA. and fifty acres in fee simple were offered to each settler. This offer drew a number of emigrants to the colony from Europe, chiefly from Germany and Scotland. In 1739, war broke out between England and Spain, and General Oglethorpe, with 1000 militia from Georgia and Florida, and a band of Indian allies, invaded Florida, and made an unsuccessful attempt to capture St. Augustine. In 1742, the Spaniards revenged this invasion by sending 36 ships and 3000 men into Georgia. Fort St. Simon, on the Altamaha River was taken, and Fort Frederica, on St. Sirmon’s Island, would have fallen, had not the Spaniards, becoming alarmed at a stratagem of Oglethorpe, retired into Florida. Peace was restored soon after. The early years of the colony were marked by troubles caused by the restrictions imposed by the Trustees. These and the prohibition of slavery occasioned so much discontent amongst the settlers that there was danger that the colony would be abandoned. In 1752, the Trustees surrendered their charter to the crown, and Georgia became a royal province.

Privileges similar to those granted the other colonies were allowed it, not the least of which was the permission to import and hold negro slaves.

After this the colony grew rapidly, and rice and cotton were largely cultivated. In 1775 the population numbered 75,000 souls. In this year its exports amounted to $517,385, and its imports to $558,885. Georgia was prompt to give her support to the measures of protection and resistance, adopted by the other colonies, and made liberal contributions of men and money to the cause during the Revolution. In 1778, the British captured Savannah, and in 1779 took Augusta and Sunbury. From these points they overran the State, compelling many of the principal inhabitants to abandon their homes and flee for their lives. In 1779, the American forces made an effort to retake Savannah, but without success, and the British continued to hold the State until the close of the war. The State Government was established and a Constitution adopted in 1777, and a second Constitution in 1785. The Federal Constitution was ratified on the 2d of January, 1788.

The Creeks and Cherokees, dwelling on the north and west frontiers of the State, gave considerable trouble by their hostilities, but in 1791, treaties were concluded with them which established the boundaries of the State, and put a stop to the troubles. In 1802, the Creeks ceded to the United States the lands which they held, and in the southwest part of this State, which were assigned l)y the General 639

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. Government to Georgia. In the same year, the State ceded to the United States all its claims to the lands west of its present limits. This territory is now embraced in the States of Alabama and Missis sippi. Ill 1838 the Creeks were removed beyond the Mississippi, by the General Government, and Georgia came into possession of their lands, which now form the northern counties of the State. At the outbreak of the civil war Georgia had reached a high de gree of prosperity, which she was destined to lose during the struggle. The State seceded from the Union on the 19th of January, 1861. From the commencement of the war it began to suffer. Its coast was at the muercWy of the navy of the United States, and was greatly damaged during the early part of the war. In the winter of 1862 the western armies commenced to operate in the northwestern part of the State, and from this time until the capture of Atlanta this section was the scene of a constant warfare. The battles of Chickamauga, between Rosecrans and Bragg, and the campaign between Sherman and Johlnston, occurred in this State. In the fall of 1864 the Conlfederates were forced to evacuate Atlanta, which was at once occupied by Sherman. The inhabitants were driven out, and the city burned. After destroying Atlanta, Sherman marched southward to Savannah, which he reached and occupied on the 24th of December, 1864, ravaging the plantations along his march, destroying railroads, bridges, factories, and mills, carrying off provisions of all kinds, and marking his way by a wide belt of ruin. It is said by competent State authorities that the destruction of property in Georgia during the war amounted to $400,000,000. After the restoration of peace a Provisional Governor was appointed by the President, and a new State Government put in operation. Congress repudiated all these acts, and made the State a part of the Third Military District, the command of which was given to Major General Pope, who was succeeded by Major General Meade.

In March, 1868, a State Convention was held, and a new Constitution adopted, which was ratified by the people in April, and the State was readmitted into the Union on the 25tlh of June, 1868. Owing, however, to the failure of the Constitution to admit the negroes to all the privileges possessed by the whites, Congress, on the 22d of December, 1869, passed a bill declaring Georgia not reconstructed, and handed the State over to the military authorities again. After an exciting contest the terms imposed by CongIress were complied with, and the State was readmitted into the Union on the 14thl of July, 1870. 640

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GEORGIA. CITIES AND TOWNS. Beside the capital, the principal cities and towns of Georgia are, Savannah, Augusta, Macon, Columbus, Rome, West Point, Dalton, Americus, Kingstoil, Marietta, Albany, Brunswick, and Darien. ATLANTA, Capital and fourth city of the State, is situated in Fulton county, 7 miles southeast of the Chattahoochee River, 171 miles west of Augusta. The location is high and healthy. Four of the principal railroads of the State terminate here, and it is to this that the city owes its rapid growth. Previous to the introduction of railways, it was an unimportant country village. It was incorporated as a city in 1847, and at the outbreak of the civil war had a population of about 10,000. It was occupied by the Confederate forces at the outset of the war, and was one of their most important posts. It was attacked by General Sherman in the summer of 1864, and several severe battles were fought in its vicinity. On the 2d of September it was captured by Sherman, who banished the inhabitants into the Southern lines. On the night of the 15th of November he caused the city to be burned, on the eve of his setting out on his’

March to the Sea.” Since the close of the war Atlanta has been almost entirely rebuilt. Owing to its position as a railroad centre, and the location of the capital of the State here, it is rapidly recovering its former trade and importance. It is well built and regularly laid out. The principal buildings are the City Hall, the Medical College, and the Opera House, purchased in 1870 by the State, and now being fitted up as a State House. It contains 5 churches, several excellent public and private schools, and 9 newspaper offices. Three monthly magazines are also published here. The city is lighted with gas, is supplied with water, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1868 it becanme the capital of the State. In 1870 the population was 16,986. SAVANNAH, The largest city in the State, is situated in Chatharn county, on the south bankl of the Savannah River, 18 miles from the sea, and 188 mniles east-southeast of Milledgeville. It is situated on a sandy plain about 40 feet above low-water mnarkl, and is one of the most interesting cities in the South.

Its streets are wide and straight, and at everv othclr corner there is a public square, usually circular or oval in 41 641

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‘rlE GREAT REPUBLIC. ,SAVANNAH. shape, planted with the Pride of India.

The streets are broad, unpaved, and densely shaded with magnificent trees.

Broad and Bay streets have handsomely turfed promenades in the centre, with carriage ways on each side. There is also a broad walk on each side of these streets. Its beautiful streets have gained for Savannah the name of “the Forest City” of the South. The squares are ornamented with handsome fountains, statues, monuments, etc. In Johnson’s Square stands a handsome monument erected to the memories of Generals Greene and Pulaski.

It is of pure white marble, and stands on the spot where Pulaski fell in the attack on the city by the American army in 1779. It cost $22,000 in gold. The city is handsomely built, many of the residences being of brick.

The majority are of wood, however. In the business edifices brick and stone are extensively employed. The Public Buildings are in keeping with the rest of the city. The principal are the Exchange, the Court House, the State Arsenal, the Custom Hfouse, the Jail, the Lyceum, OQlethorpe and St.

Andrew’s Halls, the Armory, the Theatre, and the Chatham Acad(emy. 642

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GEORGIA. The schools are excellent, and the free schools are among the best in the South. The Benevolent and Charitable Institutions comprise the Orphan Asylum, the Union Society, founded by Whitfield, the Hibernian and Seaman’s Friend Societies, the Georgia Infirmary, and the S,cvannah Hoslpital. The State Historical Society possesses a fine library. The city contains about 18 churches, a public library, several reading rooms, and 3
newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, is supplied with pure water, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. It is considered one of the healthiest cities in the South; and is inmproving in this respect in consequence of the improved manner of cultivating the land in the vicinity. It is a favorite winter resort for invalids. In 1870 the population was 28,235. In the vicinity is the Cemetery of Bonaventure, one of the most remarkably beautiful spots in the world. Savannah is connected with all parts of the State, and with Charleston, S. C., by railway.

Steamers navigate the Savannah to Augusta, and an active coast trade is maintained with the Northern and Southern ports of the Union. The chief articles of export are cotton, rice, lumber, and naval stores, of which large quantities are shipped annually from this port. The trade of the city is growing rapidly. Savannah was founded by General Oglethorpe, in 1732 or 1733. It was captured by the British in December, 1778, and was evacuated by them in 1783. In 1796, and again in 1820, it suffered severely from fire. In December, 1864, it was captured by the United States armny, under General Sherman, and was held by the Federal Governmnent until the close of the civil war. On the 28th of January, 1865, a severe fire destroyed a considerable portion of the city. AUGUSTA, The second city of the State, is situated in Richmond county, on the west bank of the Savannah River, 120 miles north-northwest from Savannah, 230
miles from the mouth of the river by its course, and 136 miles northwest of Charleston. It lies at the head of navigation on the Savannah, and controls to a great extent the lucrative trade of upper Georgia. It is one of the handsomest cities in the South, and is laid off regularly, with broad, straight streets crossing each other at right angles. Broad street is the main thoroughfare, and is lined with substantial buildings. It contains the principal stores, the hotels, the banks, and the markets, and is the fashionable promnenade. The principal public buildings are the City Hall, the Masonic Hall, 643

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the Rlichmnond Academy, and the Medlical College. The city contains about 14 churches, several excellent public and private schools, an arsenal, a hospital, and about 4 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure water. Having railroad communication with all parts of the country, and water transportation to Savannah, Augusta carries on a large trade. A considerable portion of the produce of’ utipper and central Georgia finds a market in this city.

Augusta is paying considerable attention to manufactures, a canal, 9 miles in length, bringing the waters of the utipper Savannah into the city, and furnishing a fall of 40 feet. A bridge connects the city with the South Carolina shore. Augusta has grown very rapidly during the past ten years.

In 1870, the population was 15,389. Augusta was laid out in 1735, under a royal charter. It was again chartered in 1798, and was incorporated as a city in 1817. MACONT The third city of the State, is situated in Bibb county, on both sides of the Ocmnulgee River, 30 miles southwest of Milledgeville, and 191 miles west-northwest of Savannah. It is a handsomely built city, and is regularly laid out. The streets are usually 180 feet in width, and are lined with shade trees. The city is built of brick and stone to a larger extent than most southern towns, and presents an aspect of solidity. It contains a number of elegant residences, and some o.f the handsomest public buildings inll the State. The suburbs are very beautiful, and are occupied chiefly with private residences. The schools of Macon, both public and private, have long been noted for their excellence. The higher schools are the Wesleyan Female Colleye, the Academy for the Blind, and the Botanico-Mledical Colleye. The charitable and benevolent institutions are well conducted, and are doing a noble work. The city is the point of intersection of three railways, and possesses a large trade. It lies at the head of navigation on the Ocmiilgee, which stream is navigated by small steamers. Macon is engaged in manufactures to a considerable extent. Cotton goods, iron ware, machinery, and flour are the principal articles. The city contains a handsome courthouse, about 7 churches, and several newspaper offices, and is lighted with gas and supplied with pure water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 10,810. 644

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GEORGIA. Although one of the most important places in the State, Macon entirely escaped injury during the civil war. COLUMBUS, The fifth city of the State, and one of the handsomest in the South, is situated on the east bank of the Chattahoochee River, 128 miles westsouthwest of Milledgeville, 90 miles westsouthwest of Macon, and 290 miles west of Savannah. It is located in a beautiful country, and is handsomely built.

The city extends along the river for about a mile and a half, and is over half a mile in width. It is laid out ill oblong blocks, each of which contains 4 acres, and is divided into 8 square lots. The streets are from 99 to 165 feet wide, are well shaded, and cross each other at right angles. The business streets are well built, and the main thoroughfare is lined with elegant stores. The private residences are generally surrounded with large grounds, tastefully ornamented with shrubbery, flowers, etc., and many of them are palatial. The Court House is one of the finest buildings in the State. The city contains 5 churches, several flourishing schools, public and private, and 2 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas and supplied with pure water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. A fine bridge across the Chattahoochee unites it with Girard Village, in Alabama, on the opposite side of the river. Previous to the war, the river was spanned by three bridges at this point. In 1870, the population was 7401. Columbus lies in the heart of a fine agricultural region, and is the centre of an extensive trade. The Chattahoochee is navigable for light draught steamers, from Columbus to the Gulf of Mexico, for 8 months in the year. About 80,000 bales of cotton are shipped annually from this place.

The city is connected by railway with all parts of the State. The Chattahoochee is broken at Columbus by a series of falls, which furnish excellent waterpower. This has been improved by the construction of a dam 500 feet long. The city is already extensively engaged in manufactures, and it is believed will be before many years one of the principal manufacturing cities of the South. Cotton and woollen goods, iron, machinery, and agricultural implements are the principal articles.

Columbus was laid out in 1827, on what was then known as the Coweta Reserve. It suffered considerably by the civil war. 645

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TIIE GLEAT IREPUBLIC. MISCELLANY. THE ” EMPRESS” OF GEORGIA. Among the Georgia settlers was a man by the name of Thomnas Boso2mworth, a chaplain in the regiment of Oglethorpe. It appears that lie was an artful and avaricious man. In 1747, he laid a plan either to destroy the colony or acquire a fortune. Among a number of Indians present at Frederica, a sinall English settlement, not far from Savannah, in December, was an Indian king by the name of Mfalatche. Bosomworth suggested to him the idea of being crowned in imperial form, by those of his tribe who were with him: accordingly, a paper was drawn up, filled with royal ceremonies, acknowledging Malatc7he Opiya llIeco to be the rightful, natural prince and emperor of the dominions of the Creek Nation; vest ing him with powers to make laws, frame treaties, declare war, convey lands, and transact all affairs relating to the nation; binding themselves, ol the part of their several towns, to abide by and fulfil all his contracts and engagenlenlts.

This paper being signed and sealed by the pretended killngs and chiefs, and wit nessed in due form, Malatclie requested that a copy of it might be sent over to the king of England, for his sanction, and to have it put on record among the archives of his great ally. Bosomworth had thus accomplished anl important object. He had some time before married Mary Miusgrove, a half-breed Indian. Hle now drew up a deed of conveyance in the common form, from Malatclie Opiya Meco, Emperor of the Upper and Lower Creek Nations, to Thomas and Mary Bosomworth, of the Colony of Georgia, “for, and in consideration of ten pieces of stroud, twelve pieces of duffles, two hundred weight of powder, two hundred weight of lead, twenty guns, twelve pair of pistols, and one hundred weight of vermilion; warranting and defending to the said Thomas and Mary all those tracts of land known by the names of Hussoope, or Ossabaw, Cowleygee, or St.

Catherines, and Sapelo islands, with their appurtenances, etc., to the said Thomas and Mary his wife, their heirs and assigns, as long as the sun shall slline, or the waters run in the rivers, forever. Signed on the 4th day of the windy moon, corresponding with the 14th of December.” His next object was to induce Mary to claim to be the elder sister of MAalatche, and of having descended in a maternal line from an Indian king, who held from nature the whole territories of the Creeks; and Bosomwortli now persuaded her to assert her right to them, as superior not only to the trustees, but also to that of the king. Accordingly, Mary assumed the title of an independent Empress. A meeting of the Creeks was summoned, before which she set forthl her claims. The Ind(lians became fired through her eloquence, and escorted her towards Savannahl to prosecute her claim.

A messenger was dispatched to notify the president and council of the royal family’s approach. On receiving this intelligence, the council felt embarrassed. Mary was an artful and eloquent woman; tlie English were few in number, and small their means of defence. The militia were ordered under arms. Captain Noble Jones, at the head of a troolp, was dispatched to prevent, if possible, their entrance into Savannah armed. Having met them, lie ordered them to stop and lay down their arms. At first they refused; but his determined appearance at length prevailed, and they laid aside their arms, upon which Thomas Bosom 646

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GEORGIA. worth, in his canonical robes, with his queen by his side, followed by the king and chiefs, nmarched into the town. The inhabitants were struck with terror at the sight of this ferocious tribe of savages.

When they advanced up to the parade, they found the militia drawn up under arms to receive them, by whom they were saluted with fifteen cannons, and conducted to the presidenlt’s house. Bosomworth being ordered to withdraw, the Indian chiefs, in a friendly manner, were requested to declare their intention in paying this visit in so large a body, without being sent for by any person in authority: the warriors, as they had been instructed, answered that Mary was to speak for them, and that they would abide by whatever she said; that they had heard that she was to be sent like a captive over the great waters, and they were come to know on what account they were to lose their queen; that they intended no lharm, and begged that their arms might be restored to them; and after consulting with Bosomworth and his wife, they would return and amicably settle all public affairs. To please them, their guns were returned, but strict orders were issued to allow them no ammunition, until the council should see more clearly into their dark designs. On the day following, the Indians, having had some private conferences with Mary, were observed, with sullen countenances, to march in a tumultuous manner through the streets, evidencing a hostile temper, apparently determined on mischief: all the men being obliged to mount guard, the women and children were terrified and afraid to remain in the houses by themselves, expecting every moment to be murdered and scalped. During this confusion, a false rumor was circulated, that they had cut off President Stephlen’s head with a tomahawk, which so exasperated the inhabitants that it was with difficulty the officers could restrain the troops from firing upon the savages: perhaps the exercise of the greatest prudence was never more requisite to save the town from being deluged with blood. Orders were given to lay hold on Bosomwortli, to whom it was insinuated that hlie was marked as the first victim in case of extremities; and he was carried out of the way, and closely confined, upon which Mary, his beloved queen, became outrageous and fiantic, and threatened the thunder of her vengeance against the magistrates, and the whole colony: she ordered all white persons to depart immediately from her territories, and at their peril to refuse; she cursed Oglethorpe and his fraudulent treaties, and, furiously stamping her foot upon the earth, swore by her Maker that the whole globe should know that the ground she stood upon was her own. To prevent any ascendancy by bribes over the chiefs and warriors, she kept the leading men constantly under her eye, and would not suffer them to utter a sentence on public affairs, but in her presence. The president, finding no peaceable agreement could be made with the Indians while under the baleful influence of their pretended queen, ordered her to be seized and confined.

To allay the storm of indignation excited by this, a feast was made for the Indians, at which the evil designs of Bosomworth were unfolded in a speech by the president. This had a temporary effect. Even Malatclhe seemed satisfied. But wishing to see Bosomworth and his wife alone for a tew minutes, the artful couple again seduced the aged chief, who returned to the council full of inldignation, insisting on the rights of the queen.

Upon this, the president rose, and in a short but plain address, so set forth the impositions of Bosomworth and Mary, that the Indians said they were satisfied; their eyes were opened, and they now offered to smoke the pipe of peace. Accordingly, pipes and rum were brought, and they joined hand in hland and smoked together. Presents were distributed, and all appeared satisfied and happy. 647

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rTHE GREAT REPUBLIC. But in the midst of this friendly interview, Mary, who by some means had contrived to escape, rushed in like a fury, and insultingly told the president that she would soon convince him that the Indians were her people, and that lie had no business with them. The president advised her quietly to retire to her lodgings, or he would send her to prison. Upon this Malatche took fire; and, swinging his arms, declared that no one should touch the queen. The house was filled in a moment with tumult; every Indian having his tomahawk in his hand, and the president and council expecting nothing but instant death. At this critical juncture, Captain Noble Jones with his guard interposed, and required the Indians to surrender; they did so with great reluctance. Mary was conveyed to a safe place. Bosomworth was sent for; but for a time treated the council with great indignity. At length, through the interposition of Bosomworth’s brother, the difficulty was settled. This rash and wicked man was forgiven, and the idle claims of Mary were relinquished. They were, however, afterwards renewed; Bosomworth himself instituted a suit in England, founded upon his deed from the Indians. This case was in the courts of Great Britain twelve years. In 1759, a decision was made at the Court of St. James, granting to Bosomworthli and his wife the island of St. Catherines. Bosomworth and Mary took possession of the island. There, some time after, Mary died, and Bosomnworth married his chambermaid. Finally, the remains of these two were deposited in the same graveyard, on the island for which they had so long contended. 648

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F L OR ID A. Area,………….. Population in 1860……… (Whites, 77,748; Negroes, 62,677.) Population in 1870,…….. THE State of Florida is situated between 25~ and 31~ N. latitude, and between 80~ and 87~ 44’

W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Alabama and Georgia, on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by the Gulf of Mexico and Alabama. The southern part of the State forms a large peninsula. In the eastern part, Florida is about 385 miles long from north to south. Its width along its northern border is about 250
miles from east to west. The average width of the peninsula is about 80
miles. TOPOGRAPHY. “Florida,” says Professor De Bow, “is generally level, probably never elevated more than 250 or 300 feet above the sea, and the southern part of the peninsula is covered with a large sheet of water, called the Everglades, of an immense extent (filled with islands, which it is supposed may be rendered available by drainage. The central portion of the peninsula is somewhat elevated, the highest point being about 171 feet above the ocean, and gradually declining towards the coast on each side.

The country between the Suwanee and Chattahloochee is elevated and hilly, and the western portion of the State is level. The lands of Florida are almost sui generi, very curiously distributed, and may be designated as high hummock, low hummock, swamp, savanna, and the different qualities of pine land. High hummock is usually timbered with live and other oaks, magnolia, 649 59,268 Square Miles. 140,425 187,748

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THE GREAT REI’UBLIC. laurel, etc., and is considered the best description of land for general purposes. Low hummock, timbered with live and water oak, is sub ject to overflow, but when drained is preferred for sugar.

Savannas, on the margins of streams, and in detached bodies, are usually very rich alluvions, and yielding largely in dry, but needing ditching and dyking in ordinary seasons. Marsh savannas, on the borders of tide streams, are very valuable, when reclaimed, for rice or sugarcane.”

Southwest of Florida, is a chain of small rocky islands, called the Florida Keys. They are inhabited principally by wreckers, and by persons engaged in the fisheries and the manufacture of salt. The largest and most important of these is Key West, which is strongly fortified, and is one of the chief naval stations of the Union. The Sea Islands extend from South Carolina and Georgia, along the northeast coast of Florida, and are among the finest and most productive parts of the State. The Everglades cover an immense area, about 160 miles long, and 60 miles broad. Professor De Bow speaks of them as a vast lake, filled with innumerable islands of all sizes, which are covered with a low dense undergrowth, out of which occasionally rises a huge pine or palmetto. The water is 6 or 8 feet deep, and is filled with a long rank grass which grows from a vegetable deposit at the bottom. The banana and plantain grow well in this region. The principal bays are Pensacola, Choctawhatchie, St. Andrew’s St. Joseph’s, Appalachicola, Appalachie, Waccasassa, Tampa, Charlotte Harbor, Oyster, and Ponce de Leon bays, all on the west side. Pensacola Bay affords an excellent harbor, and is the principal naval station of the Republic in the Gulf of Mexico. The rivers of the State are the Perdido, a small stream separating Florida from Alabama on the west; the Escanbia, Yell-sow, Choctawhatehie, Ocklockonee, and Suwanee, which rise in Alabama and Georgia and flow into the Gulf of Mexico oni the south, nwne of them being, over 50 or 60 miles in length. The others are the Carlosahatchie, through which Lake Okeechobee discharges its waters into the Gulf, the Withlacoochee and Tamtpa, on the west, and the St. Mary’s (partly separating the State from Georgia), the St. John’s, and Indian rivers, emptying into the Atlantic on the east. The Indian River is a mere inlet from the ocean entering the State at its southeast part, and extending north and south. It is about 100 miles long, and of very unequal breadth.

The St. John’s is the principal river of Florida. It rises in a marshy tract near the central part of the peninsula, and 650

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FLORIDA. ST. JOHN’S RIVER. flows in a generally northwest course into the Atlantic in the northern part of the State. It is over 200 miles long, and is navigable for steamers to Pilatka, about 60 miles. Vessels drawing 8
feet of water ascend the river for 107 miles. The country along the greater portion of the stream is a region of cypress swamps and pine barrens. The Appalachicola is navigable for vessels to its head. A chain of lakes extends through the centre of the peninsula. The most southern of these is Lake Okeechobee, about 20 miles long. CLIMATE. The climate is mild and pleasant. It partakes largely of the characteristics of the torrid zone, on the borders of which the State lies. It is of great benefit to invalids. A writer in the New York Observer thus speaks of it: “As to the most desirable localities for invalids, the most accessible are on the St. John’s River and St. Augustine. The interior or central portion of the peninsula may present a climate even better for 651

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. pulmonary invalids; but those parts of the country are not supplied with suitable accommodations, and( are not much visited…..

” Range of the thermometer and the weather. The A?rany Mateorological Register gives the monthly mean temperature for 20 years at St. Augustine, and for 31 years at West Point, N. Y., as follows: Jacn. Feb. Afar. 41,r.

Mety. Oct. -Yov. Dec. St. Augustine….57-03 59.94 63-34 68-78 73‘50 71-88

64‘12 57‘26 West Point…….28-28 28‘83 37‘63 48-70 59-82 53‘04 42-23

31-98 “MIost of the common garden vegetables flourish all winter, oranges ripen on the trees, roses bloom, and mocking-birds sing. A few times we have frost-three times, I believe, last winter. Do not suppose there are no changes of termperature, though there are fewer than in any other State. There are many, and, at times, they are sudden; but the thermometer rarely goes down to freezing, and the shock is far less to a delicate constitution than where it goes far below. During the greater part of the time the sun shines brightly, and invalids can be in the open air. This is the greatest benefit of the climate. I have known many who dared not set foot on the ground from November to April at the North, who have spent part of every day walking, ridiing, playing croquet, or hunting and fishing. Often, parties are formed who go down the peninsula, camping out, and, as they get beyond the reach of frost within 100 miles south of St.

Augustine, such life is most enjoyable for those who have strength for it.

Much of the time during every winter we sit with open doors and windows.

Above all things, it is important for those who come here for health to keep as much as possible in the open air.” SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil is generally sandy. In the hummocks, however, it is mixed with clay. It is fertile, and yields abundant returns with judicious culture. The best lands in the State are in the marshles. With a proper system of drainage they could be made the most productive spots in America. The natural growth of the State is very rich. The live oak and other varieties of this tree, so highly prized by ship-builders; the cyprus, pine, hickory, dogwood, magnolia and laurel abound. The timber trade of the State is very valuable, and is growing in importance every year. “Cotton, corn, sugarcane, rice, potatoes, and fruits are the princi 652

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FLORIDA. pal crops, but under the present system of culture yields are small and agriculture not profitable. In a number of counties cotton has been the specialty, but under present prices its production will doubtless decline in favor of other crops. Sugarcane is considered a good crop, and is getting more in favor; it is easily cultivated, and, as our Leon correspondent says,‘would be a good crop for white labor.’ In Baker county, sea-island cotton and sugarcane are thie chief productions. Duval county, sweet potatoes, corn, and sugarcane; corn yielding twenty bushels per acre, sweet potatoes one hundred to two hundred bushels, sugarcane two hundred gallons syrup and two hundred pounds of sugar; the latter is the most profitable crop. In Alachua, sea-island cotton is the specialty, of which our reporter says:‘The price of this cotton last year ranged from 40 cents to $1.60 per pound; this year, from 35 to 90 cents. The average yield is about eighty-five pounds of lint per acre, but as high as four hundred pounds have been raised. At 50 cents, with the present labor, it is a paying crop. Cotton is a hard crop to raise, takes the whole year, and, for the labor expended, is the least paying crop in the country.

During the past season ninety-nine out of every hundred have lost money.

Conl produces an average of eight bushels on pine lands, and fifteen bushels on hummocks. Sugarcane does well, but is raised for home consumption only.’ Wheat is not grown as a crop in Florid(a, though a correspondent writes from Levy county, that he thinks it would do well on their hummock lands; and our MaIatee reporter says he has sown a package sent from this department, and it now looks as well as he has ever seen wheat in Maryland or elsewhere. There are a variety of natural grasses growing throughout the State, and, as a general rule, cattle are pastured on the wild lands and without expense, firequently the whole year round.

Among the grasses named by our correspondents are, Bermuda grass, crab-grass, crow-foot, joint-grass, carpet-grass, wiregrass, etc. Our Levy county correspondent writes:-‘The grasses are all wild; stock runs out all the year in the woods. They are gathered in the spring, and penned every night until about August, when they are again turned out to run during the fall and winter. While kept lup they are branded, and the cows are milked, though they are generally small, and give but little milk, from one to three quarts per day.’ Tropical fruits are easily cultivated in this State. Agricultural Report for Febriuary, 1868. 6 D 3

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Oranges and lemons are raised in considerable quantities; also, bananas, citrons, figs and other fruits, and it is believed that coffee can be successfully cultivated in the southern part.

The agricultural statistics for 1869 are incomplete and unsatis factory.

They are as follows: Acres of improved land,……. Bushels of Indian corn,…… Pounds of tobacco (estimated),….. Bales of cotton,……….. Pounds of rice (estimated)…… Bushels of peas and beans…… ” sweet potatoes (estimated),. Hhds of cane sugar. ” Number of horses,…….. milch cows,…….. ” asses and mules…… swine,……..

sheel),……. The undergrowth of the State, as we have remarked, is very rank. Huge alligators and snakes abound in the swamps; the rivers are well stocked with fish; and turtle, oysters and wild fowl abound along the coast. COMMERCE. This State has little or no foreign commerce. Its trade is almost entirely with the States north of it, and its exports consist of cotton, rice, naval stores, and fruits. In 1860 the exports of the State amounted to $1,330,230, and the imports to $336,931. MANUFACTURES. Very little attention is paid to manufactures. In 1860 the capital invested in them amounted to $6,675,000. The annual product was valued at $2,700,000.

The lumber trade almost monopolized this, the value of sawed and planed lumber being $1,470,000. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868 there were 407
miles of completed railroads in Florida, constructed at a cost of $8,888,000. The principal towns are connected with each other, and with all parts of the UTnion by railroad. 654 . 654,213 1. 3,100,000 . 600,000

:. 50,000 .. 175,000 .. 363,217 .. 1,200,000 .. 1,500 … 18,740 …

15,320 … 99,108 … 299,750 … 35,600

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FLORIDA. EDUCATION. In 1860 there were 93 public schools in Florida, with 2032 pupils, and 138 other schools and academies, with 4486 pupils. They were nearly all closed by the war. The new Constitution makes provision for a system of public free schools, which are to be supported by a special tax levied by the Legislature, and a permanent school fund has been created. The system is in charge of a State Superintendent of Public Instruction. This officer, and the Secretary of State and AttorneyGeneral, constitute the State Board of Education. Two State seminaries, the east Florida and west Florida, have been established. The State Superintendent, in his report for 1870, says free schools are gaining in favor with the people. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. This State has no penitentiary or charitable asylums. The Constitution makes provision for them, and the Governor strongly recommnends their establishment. Criminals are supported in idleness in tile county prisons, by the State, which receives no return for this outlay. The Governor, in his message for 1868, declared that this expense was so heavy that he was compelled to pardon many criminals in order to save the State from bankruptcy. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860 there were 319 churches in Florida, and the value of church property was $284,390. Many of the churches were destroyed during the war. FINANCES. On the 1st of January, 1871, the State debt amounted to $1,288,697, including $276,325 in outstanding Comptroller’s warrants and Treasurer’s certificates. The receipts of the Treasury for the year 1870 were $230,764, and the expenditures $208,587. GOVERNMENT.

The present Constitution of the State was ratified by the people in May, 1868. Every male person twentyone years old, without regard to race, color, nationality, or previous condition, who is a citizen of the United States, or who shall have legally declared his 655

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THE GREAT’ REPUBLIC. intention to become a citizen of the United States, and who shall have resided in the State one year, and in the county six months, is entitled to vote at the elections. Persons coming of age, or becoming citizens after 1880, will not be allowed to vote without being able to read and write, but no one who is an elector previous to that year shall be afterwards deprived of the elective franchise because of such ignorance. The Government is vested in a Governor, Lieutenant,Governor, Secretary of State, Comptroller, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate (of 24 members, chosen for four years, onehalf retiring biennially), and an Assembly (of 53 members, elected for two years). The Seminole Indians are entitled to one member in the Assembly. He must be a member of that tribe, and chosen by the qualified electors thereof. The Governor and LieutenantGovernor are chosen for four years by the people. The Executive officers are appointed by the Governor and confirmed by the Senate. The Legislature meets annually. The courts of the State are the Supreme Court, seven Circuit Courts, and a County Court in each county. All the judges are appointed by the Governor and confirmed by the Senate. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices. For purposes of Government the State is divided into 37 counties. The seat of government is located at Tallahassee. HISTORY.

Florida was discovered by the Spaniards, on Easter Sunday, Pascua Florida, and partly on this account, and partly because of its natural beauty, was given its present name, which signifies “the flowery.” It was first visited by Ponce de Leon, in 1513. Subsequently, Vasquez, a Spaniard (in 1520), Verazzani, a Florentine (in 1523), and De Geray, a Spaniard (in 1524), made voyages to it. In 1526, Charles V., of Spain, granted all the lands between Cape Fliridca and the Rio Panuco to Pampilo de Narvaez, who, in 1528, landed at Appalachee with a considerable military force. He was stoutly resisted b)y the Indian tribes, and was finally shipwrecked and drowned on the coast, near the mouth of the Panuco. Only ten of his followers returned to Europe. In 1539, Florida was explored by Fernando de Soto, lwho penetrated as far into the continent as the Mississippi River.

Some years later a colony of French Huguenots was established in Florida.

The Spaniards attacked them in 1564, and hanged many of them on the trees.

Having driven out the French, they built a fort on the 656

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FLORIDA. spot. It was subsequently taken by a French expedition, and the garrison hanged, in retaliation for the original murders. In 1565, the Spaniards founded the city of St. Augustine, now the oldest Euro pean settlement in the Union. They held it until 1586, when it was captured by the English under Sir Franicis Drake. In 1696, Pensacola was settled by the French. The English had claimed the northeastern part of the country nearly a century before, and now made frequent inroads upon the Spanish settlements. In 1702, an expedition from Carolina made an unsuccessful attempt to capture St. Augustine, and the next year took Fort St. Mark.

The expedition of Oglethorpe, and the counter invasion of Georgia by the Spaniards, have already been related in the preceding chapter. In 1763, Spain ceded the whole of Florida to Great Britain, in exchange for the Island of Cuba, which had been captured by the English. The country was now divided into two provinces, the Appa lachicola River being the dividing line. Many settlers came over from Carolina, and a number of emigrants arrived from Italy and the islands of the Mediterranean. The English held the country during the Revolution, and sent out many privateers from it, and incited the Indians to hostilities against the Americans in Carolina and Georgia. In 1778, General Prevost invaded Georgia, from this State, and cap tured Savannah and other towns. This withdrawal of his forces, however, left Forida at the mercy of the Spaniards, who at once entered it, and in 1781 captured Pensacola, and occupied a considerable part of the province. The treaty of 1783 restored Florida to Spain, upon which the majority of the inhabitants abandoned it, and removed to the United States. The cession of Louisiana to the United States, by France, gave the former country a claim to the country west of the Perdido River, which now comprises the extreme southern end of Alabama. This section was promptly occupied by the Federal army. During the second war with England, it was ascertained that the British had been allowed by the Spaniards to fit out an expedition against the United States from Pensacola. General Jackson at once entered Florida with his army, and captured Pensacola. I-e retook the town in 1818, and also Fort St. Mark, but they were restored to Spain, who, in 1819, sold the whole province to the United States. The American authority was established in Florida, in 1821. Emigrants at once commenced to flock thither, and the territory began to prosper. The growth of Florida was much impeded by the war which broke out in 1835, between the Government and the Seminole 42

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Indians, who occupied the best lands in the State, and refused to allow tile whites to settle upon them. The war lasted until May, 1858, when the Seminoles agreed to remove to the West, and were at once conveved thither. The war cost the Government over $30,000,000 and thousands of lives. Florida was organized as a territory in 1819, and admitted into tile Union as a slaveholding State, on the 3d of March, 1845. It seceded from the Union on the 10th of January, 1861, and joined the Southern Confederacy. The State authorities, in January, 1861, seized the navy yard and the forts at Pensacola, with the exception of Fort Pickens, on Santa Rosa Island, in Pensacola Bay, which was held by its commander, Lieutenant Slemmer. It was afterwards strongly reinforced, and on several occasions bombarded the Confederate works at Pensacola. The State suffered much during the war. Key West, the Tortugas, and Fort Pickens were held by the Government from the beginning of the struggle, and afforded ready means of entering its territory; while the possession of Port Royal, in South Carolina, by the National forces, placed northeasern Florida at their mercy. A large part of the plantations were ruined, several towns were destroyed, and others more or less injured, and several severe battles were fought within the limits of the State. Slavery was abolished by the result of the war, but by that time desertions and disease had greatly reduced the negro population. At the close of the civil war, a Provisional Government was established by the President of the United States, which was the next year repudiated by Congress. In 1867, the State was made a part of the Third Military District, the headquarters of which were at Atlanta, Georgia. In January, 1868, a State Convention assembled at Tallahassee, and adopted a Constitution, which was ratified by the people on the 6th of May, and Congress, approving this action, readmitted the State into the Union on the 25th of June, 1868.

CITIES AND TOWNS. Beside the capital, the principal towns are, Pensacola, Key West City, Jacksonville, St. Augustine, Quincy, and Monticello.

TALLAHASSEE, The capital of the State, is situated in Leon county, about 25 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, and 194 miles east of Mobile. Latitude, X,58

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FLORIDA. 30~ 28’ N.; longitude, 84~ 36’ W. The city lies on elevated ground, is regularly laid out, and contains several tasteful public squares. It is well built, and is regarded as one of the healthiest and pleasantest cities in the South. It lies ill the heart of the most populous and fertile portion of the State, and is connected with the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, and with Savannah, Ga., by railway. It contains the State Hlouse, Court House, a jail, a Land Office of the United States, several churches, several fine schools, and 2 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. Its importance is due solely to its being the capital of the State. In 1870 the population was 2023. PENSACOLA Is situated in Escambia county, on the west shore of Pensacola Bay, about 10
miles from the Gulf of Mexico, 180 miles west of Talla hassee, and 64
miles east of Mobile. It is one of the principal places in the State, and now that it has railway communication with the rest of the Union, is rapidly growing in its commercial importance. It possesses an admirable harbor, admitting vessels drawing 21 feet of water. The town is a naval station of the United States, and contains an important navy yard. The entrance to the harbor is defended by Fort Piekens, on Santa Rosa Island, and Forts Barrancas and McRea on the mainland. The city presents rather a decayed appearance, and bears many marks of its Spanisll origin. The houses are mostly oldfashioned and of wood; the streets are generally unpaved, and the sidewalks are frequently of wood. The principal building is the C,ustom House. There are several churches and schools, and 2
newspaper offices in the city. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 3347. Pensacola was permanently settled by the Spaniards about the year 1699. The French made frequent efforts to drive away thle Spaniards, and in 1719 captured the place, and held it until 1723, when they restored it to Spain. In 1763 all Florida, including Pensacola, passed into the hands of the British. Pensacola was besieged and recaptured by the Spanish in 1781. In 1783 the whole province was restored to Spain. In 1814 the city was attacked and captured, with its adjacent forts, by General Jackson, whose object was to drive out the British who had been allowed by the Spaniards to establish themselves there. In 1818 the Spaniards being either unable or unwilling to put a stop to the inroads of the Indians from Florida into the 655

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. United States, General Jackson again took possession of the city, and obliged the Spanish Governor, who had taken refilge in Fort Barrancas, to surrender that work. In 1821 Pensacola became a city of the Union by the purchase of Florida. In January, 1861, after the secession of Florida from the Union, the State troops took possession of the navy yard, Forts Barrancas and McRea, and the other Government property. The United States forces, under Lieutenant Slemruer, occupied Fort Pickens, on Santa Rosa Island, and held it until reinforced. The Southern forces at once laid siege to Fort Pickens, which was also defended by a naval force. The siege of this fort, and the blockade of Pensacola, lasted during the greater portion of the civil war. ST.

AUGUSTINE Is situated in St. John’s county, on the north shore of Matanzas Sound, 2 miles from the Atlantic, from which it is separated by Anastasia Island. It is 200 miles east by south from Tallahassee. It possesses but little trade, although its harbor is safe and large. Large ships cannot enter it, however, as there is but 9 or 10 feet of water on the bar. It is reached by steamer from Jacksonville. It contains the county buildings, several churches and schools, and 1 newspaper office. In 1870 the population was 1717. St. Augustine is the oldest town in the United States, and one of the most interesting. It was settled by the Spaniards in 1564. The site was originally a shell hummock, scarcely 12 feet higher than the surface of the sea. The town formerly stood in a grove of orange trees, but in 1834 a great frost destroyed these. Frost, however, is very rare in this part of Florida. Many winters pass without the slightest mark of it, and snow is almost unknown. “St. Augustine is built along the seaward side of a narrow ridge of land, situated between a salt marsh and estuary half a mile from the beach, two miles from the ocean, in sight of the bar and lighthouse, and in hearing of the surf. The soil is sandy loam and decomposed shell, and is very productive. Approaching by a bridge and crossing the St. Sebastian River and marsh, the stranger enters a wellshaded avenue, flanked by gardens and orange-groves, which leads directly to the centre of the quaint old city. Here is the publlc square, a neat enclosure of some two acres, facing which, on either side, stand the Court House, the market and whlarf, the Protestant Episcopal Church-a plain building, in the pointed style, handsomely 660

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FLORIDA. furnished-and, immediately opposite, the venerable Roinan Catholic Church, a striking edifice of seemingly great antiquity, but built only about eighty years ago. It is of the periwig pattern, and in the worst possible taste. One of its bells bears date 1682. Connected with this church is a small convent and school. A minute’s walk brings us to the sea-wall or breakwater, a broad line of massive masonry, built about 1840 by order of Government, at great cost, for the pro tection of the city, but whose chief use is that of affording to the in habitants the pleasantest promenade in fine weather. This wall ex tends half a mile southward to the now deserted barracks and maga zine, and as far northward as Fort Marion (formerly Castle of St. Mark), a picturesque and decayed fortress, which once commanded the whole harbor, looming up out of the fiat landscape, grand as a Moorish castle, and forming the most conspicuous and interesting relic of the Spanish occupation. Parallel to this sea-wall, run north and south, with short intersections, the three principal streets or lanes, long, narrow, without pavement or sidewalk, irregularly built up with ‘ dumpy’ but substantial houses, rather dingy and antediluvian, mostly of stone, or with the lower stories stone and the upper of wood. They have invariably the chimneys outside, and are ornamented with projecting balconies and latticed verandahs, from which the gay paint has long since faded, being all toned and weather-stained into one sombre gray hue, which, ill keeping with the surroundings, is the joint result of age, neglect, sun, and saline air. Every house is separated from its neighbor by more or less of garden plot, ill protected by broken fence and crumbling wall, wherein they raise two or more crops of vegetables every year, figs in perfection, and roses in unmeasured abundance. St. Augustine is sometimes styled the’Ancient City.’ Its appearance is in strict keeping with its venerable age, seen in the unequivocal marks of decay or decrepitation. Perhaps the friable nature of the common building material contributes to thi. ruinous appearance, all the older houses being constructed of a stratified concrete of minute shell and sand called’coquina,’ in blocks conveniently obtained, and easily worked, hardening by exposure, but abrading and crumbling in course of time. Coquina houses are invariably dark, and always damp in winter, on which account frame dwellings, though not so cool, for summer houses, are much preferred by the innovating Yankees. But the Minorcan, or sub-Spanish population, still adhere to their traditions, and refuse to be reformed.

They build for the summer time-the longest season. Northerners seeking in Florida a 661

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THE GREAT REI’UBLIC. mild climate generally prefer St. Augustine; and with the best reason. The proximity of the Gulf Stream renders it wartmer in winter and cooler in summer than the settlements on the St. John’s River.

It is at present the most southern habitable place on the eastern coast; and it has peculiar advantages over all other towns in East Floridain its churches, its company, and its comforts. Good society may be always had there; the citizens are hospitable, and among the visitors are always some agreeable persons, cultivated and distinguished. Visitors begin to arrive about the holidays. From the middle of Marchl to the middle of April is the height of the season, and then the hotels are crowded. Deliciously fresh and mild is the atmosphere during the first spring heats. Then the soft south wind fills the senses with a voluptuous languor, and the evening land breeze comes laden with the fragrance of orange-blossoms and the breath of roses. A moonlight walk upon the sea-wall suggests the Mediterraifean, and the allusion is heightened by the accents of a foreign tongue. The effect of these happy climatic and social conditions is very noticeable. The most morose tempers seem to lose their acerbity, and even the despairing invalid catches the contagion of cheerfulness. Twothirds of the population of St. Augustine are of Spanish origin, and still speak the Spanish language. The women are pretty, modest, dark-eye(d brunettes; dress neatly in gay colors, are skilful at needlework. and g(od housewives. The men exhibit equally characteristic traits of race and nationality. The people are generally poor. There are no ST. AUGUSTINE.

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FLORIDA. manufactures. The town produces little, and exports nothing-its chief support, since the loss of its orange-groves, being derived fromi Government offices, and receipts from strangers. It has one sawmill, rarely running.” KEY WEST CITY, In Monroe county, in the most populous town in the State. It is situated on the island of Key West, about 60
miles southwest of Cape Table, latitude 24~ 33t N.; longitude 81~ 40’ W.

It is a w-ell-built town, of nearly 700 houses. The streets are 50 feet wide and cross each other at rightangles. It contains 4 churches, 5
schools, and a fine ilicarine Hospital belonging to the United States.

About 30,000 bushels of salt are made annually at Key West by solar evaporation. Large quantities of sponges, turtles, and fish are exported to the Atlantic cities. The principal business of the place, however, is wrecking. About forty-five or fifty vessels are annually wrecked in the vicinity of the island, and the inhabitants derive an annual profit of about $200,000 from the salvages and other perquisites of these vessels.

This business is conducted under equitable and strict laws, and is of benefit to ship-owners as well as to the islanders. Key West was first settled in 1822. It is one of the most importanit military stations of the United States, as it is the key to the Florida Pass and the Gulf of Mexico. The harbor is large and safe, and will admit vessels drawing 22
feet of water. Its entrance is defended by Fort Taylor, a powerful work.

The steamers from Charleston and New York touch at this port once a week, and furnish tl-he only regular communication with the mainland. In 1870
the population was 5000. 663

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ALABA MA. A r e a…………. 50,722 Square Miles. Population in 1860………946,244 (Whites, 526,431; Negroes, 419,813) Population in 1870………996,992 THE State of Alabama is situated between 30~ 10’ and 35~ N. latitude, and between 85~ and 88~ 30’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee, on the east by Georgia, on the south by Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by Mississippi. TOPOGRAPHY. The northeast part of this State is occupied by the southwest end of the Alleghany Mountains, which terminate here. They gradually silnk down into a fine rolling country, which covers the whole surface of the State to within sixty miles of the Gulf, where it becomes level. The principal rivers are the Alabama, Tennessee, Tombigbee, Black Warrior, and Coosa.

The Perdido separates the State from Florida in the southeast, and the Choctawhatchic, Pea, Yellow, Connecuh, and Escambia rivers rise in the southern part of the State, and flow southl into Florida. The Alabamna River, the most important stream in the State, is formed by the Coosa and Tallapoosa, which unite about 10 miles above Montgomery. It flows in a generally southwest direction, and empties through Mobile Bay into the Gulf of Mexico. About 45 miles above Mobile, it is joined by the Tombigbee. Below this, it is called the Mobile River. It is navigable at all seasons for firstclass steamers. The Tallapoosa is navigable for a short distance, and the Coosa for about 160 miles. The length of the main stream is 664

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ALABAMA. about 300 miles. Its tributaries are the Cahawba and Tombigbee, besides several small streams. Mr. Russell, the correspondent of the London Times, draws the following picture of this celebrated river in its prosperous times: “The vessel was nothing more than a vast wooden house, of three separate stories, floating on a pontoon which upheld the engine, with a dining-hall or saloon on the second story surrounded by sleeping berths, and a nest of smaller rooms up-stairs; oni the metal roof was a’

musical’ instrument called a’calliope,’ played like a piano by keys, which acted on levers and valves, admitting steam into metal culps, where it produced the requisite notes-high, resonant, and not un pleasing at a moderate distance. It is 417 miles to Mobile, but at this season the steamer can maintain a good rate of speed, as there is very little cotton or cargo to be taken on board at the landings, and the stream is full.

“The river is about 200 yards broad, and of the color of chocolate and milk, with high, steep, wooded banks, rising so much above the surface of the stream, that a person on the upper deck of the towering Southern Republic, cannot get a glimpse of the fields and country beyond. High banks and bluffs spring up to the height of 150 or even 200 feet above the river, the breadth of which is so uniform as to give the Alabama the appearance-of a canal, only relieved by sudden bends and rapid curves. The surface is covered with masses of drift wood, whole trees, and small islands of branches. Now and then a sharp, black, fang-like projection standing stiffly in the current gives warning of a snag, but the helmsman, who commands the whole course of the river, from an elevated house amidships on the upper deck, can see these in time; and at night pine boughs are lighted in iron cressets at the bows to illuminate the water.

“The captain, who was not particular whether his name was spelt Maher, or Meaher, or Meagher (les trois se disent), was evidently a character-perhaps a good one. One with a grey eye fiull of cunning and of some humor, strongly-marked features, and a very Celtic mouth of the Kerry type. He soon attached himself to me, and favored me with some wonderful yarns, which I hope he was not foolish enough to think I believed. One relating to a wholesale destruction and massacre of Indians he narrated with evident gusto. Pointing to one of the bluffs, he said that some thirty years ago the whole of the Indians in the district being surrounded by the whites, betook themselves to that spot, and remained there without any 665

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THE GRt,EAT REPUBILIC. A BLUFF ON THE ALABAMA RIVER. means of escape, till they were quite starved out. So they sent down to know if the whites would let them go, and it was agreed that they should be permitted to move down the river in boats. When the day came, and they were all afloat, the whites anticipated the boat-massacre of Nana Sahib at Cawnpore, and destroyed the helpless red-skins. Many hundreds thus perished, and the whole affair was very much approved of. “The value of land on the sides of this river is great, as it yields nine to eleven bales of cotton to the acre-worth 101. a bale at present prices. The only evidences of this wealth to be seen by us consisted of the cotton sheds on the top of the banks, and slides of timber, with steps at each side downvl to the landings, so constructed that the cotton bales could be shot down on board the vessel. These shoots and staircases are generally protected by a roof of planks, and lead to unknown regions inhabited by niggers and their masters, the latter all talking politics. And so they talk through the glimmering of bad cigars for hours. “The management of the boat is dexterous,-as she approaches the landing-place, the helm is put hard over, to the screaming of the steam-pipe, and the wild strains of’Dixie’

floating out of the throats of the calliope, and as the engines are detached, one wheel is worked forward, and the other backs water, so she soon turns head up stream, and is then gently paddled up to the river bank, to which she is just kept up by steam-the plank is run ashore, and the few passengers who are coming in or out are lighted on their way by the flames of pine in an iron basket, swinging above the 1)ow by a long pole. Then 666

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ALABAMA. we see them vanishing into black darkness up the steps, or coming down clearer and clearer till they stand in the fuill blaze of the beacon, which casts dark shadows on the yellow water. The air is glistening with fire-flies, which dot the darkness with specks and points of flame, just as sparks fly through the embers of tinder or half-burned paper. “Some of the landings were by far more important than others. There were some, for example, where an iron railroad was worked down the bank by windlasses for hoisting up goods; others where the negroes, half-naked, leaped ashore, and rushing at piles of fire-wood, tossed them on board to feed the engine, which, all uncovered and open to the lower deck, lighted utip the darkness by the glare from the stoke-holes, which cried forever’Give, give!’ as the negroes ceaselessly thrust the pine-beams into their hungry maws. I could understand how easily a steamer can’burn up,’ and how hopeless escape would be under such circumstances. The whole framework of the vessel is of the lightest resinous pine, so raw that the turpentine oozes out through the paint; the hull is a miere shell. If the vessel once caught fire, all that could be done would be to turn her round, and run her to the bank, in the hope of holding there long enough to enable the people to escape into the trees; but if she were not near a landing, many must be lost; as the bank is steep down, the vessel cannot be run aground; and in some places the trees are in eight or ten feet of water. A few minutes would suffice to set the vessel in a blaze from stem to stern; and if there were cotton on board, the bales would burn almost like powder.

The scene at each landing was repeated, with few variations, ten times till we reached Selma, 110 miles distance, at 11.30 at night. “Selma, which is connected with the Tennessee and Mississippi rivers by railroad, is built upon a steep, lofty bluff, and the lights in the windows, and the lofty hotels above us, put me in mind of the old town of Edinburgh, seen from Princes Street. Beside us, there was a huge storied wharf, so that our passengers could step on shore from any deck they pleased. “The cabin of one of these steamers, in the month of May, is not favorable to sleep.

The wooden beams of the engines creak and scream ‘ consumedly,’ and the great engines themselves throb as if they would break through their thin, pulse covers of pine,-and the whistle sounds, and the calliope shrieks out’Dixie’ incessantly. So, when I was up and dressed, breakfast was over, and I had an opportunity of seeing the slaves on board, male and female, acting as stewards and stew 667

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC, ardesses, at their morning meal, which they took with much good spirits and decorum. They were nicely dressed-clean and neat. I was forced to admit to myself that their Ashantee gran(1sires and grandmothers, or their Kroo and Dahomey progenitors, were certainly less comfortable and well clad, and that these slaves had other social advantages, though I could not recognize the force of the Bishop of Georgia’s assertion, that from slavery must come the sole hope of, and machinery for, the evangelization of Africa. I confess I would not give much for the influence of the stewards and stewardesses in Christianizing the blacks. “The river, the scenery, and the scenes were just the same as yes terday’s-high banks, cotton slides, wooding-stations, canebrakes and a very miserable negro population, if the specimens of women and children at the landings fairly represented the mass of the slaves. They were in strong contrast to the comfortalble, well-dressed domestic slaves on board, and it can well be imagined there is a wide difference between the classes, and that those condemned to work in the open fields must suffer exceedingly.” The Tonmbigbee River, or, as it is familiarly called by the natives, the Bigbee, rises in Tishomingo county, in the extreme northeast of the State of Mississippi, and flows southward to Columbus, in that State, where it turns to the east, enters the State of Alabamna, and flows southeast to Demopolis, where it receives the waters of the Black Warrior, after which it flows south into the Alabama River, 45 miles north of Mobile. It is 450 miles long, and is navigable for steamers to Columbus, Miss., 366 miles from Mobile. Flat-bottomed steamboats can ascend to Aberdeen, 40 or 50 miles above Columbus. The Tombigbee flows through a fine, fertile country, and its banks are lined with cotton plantations.

Its principal branch, the Black Warrior, extends into the northeast part of the State, and is navigable for 150 miles, to Tuscaloosa, 305 miles from its mouth. It flows through a country rich in mineral resources. The Tennessee River has 130 miles of its course in Alabama, flowing westward across the northern part of the State. It will be described in another chapter. MJobile Bay divides the extreme southwest part of the State in half. It extends southward from the mouth of the Mobile River to the Gulf, with which it communicates by two channels separated by Dauphin Island. It is 35 miles long, and from 3 to 15 miles wide. It was the scene of a desperate naval battle between the Federal and Confederate fleets, in which the latter was destroyed by Admiral 668

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ALABAMA. Farragut. It communicates with Mississippi Sound on the west, and, in connection with that body of water, which is protected from the waves of the Gulf by a chain of low, sandy islands, furnishes an inner and safe water route from Mobile to Lake Pontchartrain and New Orleans. SOIL, CLIMATE, MINERALS, PRODUCTS, AND MANUFACTURES. “The soil varies with the geographical locality and elevation. The mountain region of the north is well suited to grazing and stockraising, and is interspersed with valleys of excellent soil. The undulating surface of the central portion is well watered, and, especially in the river bottoms, highly charged with fertilizing elements. The valley of the Alabama is one of the richest on the continent. The removal of the canebrakes of Marengo and Greene counties, has disclosed soil of surpassing quality. Toward the coast the vegetation becomes decidedly tropical. Cotton is the great staple, but sugarcane is cultivated on the neck between Mississippi and Florida, and indigo has been produced in considerable quantities. Oaks in great variety, poplars, hickories, chestnuts, and mulberries, cover the northern and central parts, while in the south the pine, cypress, and loblolly are the prevailing species. “The climate varies with the latitude, approaching within seven degrees of the tropics. The southern coast is strongly assimilated to the torrid zone in its temperature. The nights, however, are alleviated, even in the hottest weather, by the Gulf breezes. During the coldest seasons the rivers, even in the north, are seldom frozen, and the general winter temperature of the State is very mild. The low lands near the rivers are malarious, but the State generally is remarkable for salubrity. “The agricultural statistics of 1860 disclose an advafce, in ten years, of fifty per cent. in the amount of land brought under cultivatioii, and of nearly two hundred per cent. in the value of farms and farm implements. “Live stock presents some enlargement of aggregate numbers, and more than doubles in value. Animal products, such as butter, cheese, wool, honey, and slaughtered animals, have increased fifty per cent. Cereals, tobacco, cotton, potatoes, and hay show likle increment.

Market garden products nearly double in value, while orchard produets increase nearly fifteen fold. Like the neighboring Gulf States, 669

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. an injudicious cultivation of cotton, tobacco, and other heavy staples, has somewhat exhausted the fertility of portions of the land. Tillage and rotation of crops will remedy the mischief and restore the elements of productiveness. The agricultural development of Alabama awaits the final adjustment of the system of labor, the State possessing elemients promising a bright future. “The mineral resources of Alabama are sufficiently known to indicate their abundance and variety.

The central region is underlaid by vast beds of iron ore, alternating with thick coal measures of great extent. The juxtaposition of these minerals favors mining operations and the processes of preparing iron for market.

Lead, manganese, ochres, and marbles, are found in different localities, and even gold is reported. Sulphur and chalybeate springs are of frequent occurrence. “The returns of 1860 show 1459 manufacturing establishments, with capital of $9,098,181, producing articles valued at $10,588,571, at an outlay for labor and raw material of $7,622,903; the margin of profits was $2,965,668, or nearly 30 per cent. on the capital invested. A new era in manufacturing enterprise may be expected in the reorganization of labor now in progress in this and other States, in which this great industrial interest will find its true position and influence in the social system.”

In 1869 there were 6,385,724 acres of improved land in Alabama. In the same year the agricultural statistics were as follows: Bales of cotton,………. Pounds of rice (estimated),…. Bushels of wheat……… ” Indian corn,…….. ” peas and beans……, sweet potatoes (estimated), ” oats,…….. Tons of hay,…………6 Pounds of butter,……. Number of horses……… ‘ mules and asses,…. ” milch cows,……. ” sheep,……… ” swine,…….. ” young cattle,… Value of domestic animals,…. Report of the General Land Office. 670 510,000

300,000 930,000 30,200,000 65,780 5,000,000 - 567,000 68,000 6,028,478

165,063 140,687 270,537 680,960 2,500,000 600,347 $49,111,911

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ALABAMA. COMMERCE. Alabama, having 1500 miles of river navigation, and one of the best harbors on the Gulf (Mobile), possesses considerable commerce.

The export of cotton and lumber is very large. In 1860 the total value of the exports of the State was $38,670,183 (making Alabama the third State in the Union as regards the value of its exports that year), and that of the imports, $1,050,310. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868 there were 891
miles of completed railroads in Alabama, constructed at a cost of $21,011,000. The capital and the principal towns are connected with each other, and with all parts of the Union. The great railroad route between Memphis and the Eastern States extends across the northern part of the State, and there is a main route direct from Mobile to the Ohio River. The roads of the State were almost destroyed during the war, but are slowly regaining their former prosperity. EDUCATION. Alabama was one of the most enterprising States in the South in the cause of education previous to the war. In 1860 the State contained 17 colleges, with 2120 students; 1903
public schools, with 61,751 Dupils; and 206 academies and other schools, with 10,778 pupils. The Uivei-sity of Alabama is located near Tuscaloosa.

It was a flourishing institution previous to the war, and held a high rank amongst the colleges of the country. Its buildings were destroyed by fire in 1865. Measures were at once taken to restore them upon a larger and more perfect plan. The schools of the State were generally closed by the war, many of them having been destroyed during the struggle. The new Constitution places the educational system of the State in the hands of a State Board of Education, consisting of the State Superintendent of Public Instruction, the Governor of the State, who is a member ex officio, and two members from each Congressional District. They also constitute a Board of Regents of the State University. The Board meets annually at Montgomery, at the opening of the session of the Legislature, and sits for the transaction of business for a period not to exceed 20 days. The Board is required to establish one or 671

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. mniore free public schools in each school district. A permanent school fiund is established, and the Legislature is required to levy taxes for the support of the public schools. In 1860 the State contained 395 libraries, with 13,050 volumes. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Penitentiary is located at Wetumnpka, and contains about 200
prisoners, threefourths of whom are negroes. The penitentiary is let out to contractors, and is self-supporting. The convicts are put to work, outside the prison, on railroads, and in the iron and coal mines, a guard being kept over them. The Insane Hospital is at Tuscaloosa. It was established in 1852, and opened for the reception of patients in July, 1861. It is an excellent institution, is well managed, and is prosperous.

In 1866 there were 151 patients under treatment here. Those who are able to pay their expenses are charged a moderate sum. The institution will accommodate 350 patients. The Institution for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind is at Talladega. It contains 40 pupils, who are being instructed in the various branches of a good education. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860
there were 1875 churches in the State, but many of these were destroyed during the war. FINANCES. The total bonded debt of the State in July, 1868, was $5,382,800. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending September 30th, 1868, were $1,577,144, and the expenditures $1,461,429. There were 2 National Banks in the State, with a capital of $500,000, in 1868. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of the State was adopted by the people in February, 1868. Every male citizen, 21 years old, who has resided in the State six months, and has taken the oath to support the Constitution and laws of the United States, and of Alabama, are entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, 672

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ALABAMA Secretary of State, Treasurer and Receiver-General, Auditor and Attorney General, and a General Assembly, consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives. The Executive officers are elected by the people, and all except the Auditor, who is chosen for four years, hold office for two years. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, Circuit Courts, Chancery Courts, Courts of Probate, and such inferior courts as the General Assembly may see fit to establish. The Supreme Court consists of three judges, and has appellate jurisdiction only. All the judges in this State are chosen by the people. For purposes of government the State is divided into 52 counties. The seat of Government is at Montgomery.

HISTORY. The word ALABA.IA is an Indian expression, signifying, “Here we rest.” The first white man who entered the State was Fernando de Soto, who traversed it in 1540, defeating the Indians who sought to oppose his progress in several severe battles. He found the savages less barbarous and more civilized in this part of the country than in the other sections visited by him. He crossed the State fromn the northeastern part to Miaubila, said to have occupied the present site of Choctaw Bluff, just above the confluence of the Tombigbee and Alabama rivers. “This place consisted of eighty handsome houses, each sufficiently capacious to contain a thousand men. They were encompassed by a high wall, made of immense trunks of trees, set deep in the ground and close together, strengthened wvith cross-timb)ers and interwoven with large vines.” After De Soto’s arrival in the town, he and his followers were treacherously attacked by the Indians to the number of ten thousand. A battle ensued, which lasted nine hours, and resulted in the destruction of six thousand Indiatis and the town of Maubila. The Spaniards suffered terriby, and lost eighty men, forty-five horses, and all their baggage and camp equipage.

After this De Soto proceeded northward to the Mississippi River. In 1702, Bienville, the French Governor of Louisiana, entered Mobile Bay, and built a fort and trading-post at the mouth of Dog, River. He called the post Fort St. Louis de ]a Mobile. This cwas for nine years the seat of government, but in 1711, the French ascended to the head of the bay, and founded the present city of Mol)ile. Bienville made treaties of friendship and alliance with the 43 673

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. neighboring Indian tribes, and for avwhlile the colony prospered, but finally the colonists became so much harassed by the English, who incited the Indians against them, that they abandoned Mobile.

Negro slaves were first brought into the colony by three French ships of war, ill 1721. The treaty of 1783 surrendered the French possessions in Alabama to Great Britain. “George Johnson, the first British Governor, organized a military government, garrisoned the fort at Mobile, and that of Toulouse, up the Coosa. The first English inhabitants of Mobile died in great numbers, from habits of intemperance, exposure, and contagious disorders, introduced by the military. The exports of Mobile, in 1772, were indigo, raw hides, corn, cattle, tallow, rice, pitch, bear’s oil, lumber, fish, etc. Cotton was cultivated in small quantities. The charter granted to Georgia comprised within its limits all the territory westward to the Mississippi. That State, considering its title to these lands as perfect, made grants to various companies, for the purpose of settlement.

Two sets of these, known as the’ Yazoo Grants,’ have acquired a celebrity in history. By the first, five millions of acres in Mississippi were granted to the South Carolina Yazoo Company; seven millions to the Virginia Yazoo Company; and 3,500,000 acres in Alabama to the Tennessee Company. The United States authorities opposed these grants, and the several companies having failed to pay the purchlase money, Georgia rescinded her patents. Several years afterwards, Georgia made other and more considerable grants. These sales raised a storm throughout the country; they were denounced by General Washington, in his message to Congress, and, eventually, they were declared null and void. “Alabama, at this period, was almost entirely in the occupation of the natives. There was a garrison of Spanish troops at Mobile, and also at St. Stephens, on the Tombigbee, with trading-posts upon the Oconee, and on other points in the south and west. The whole country west of the present limits of Georgia, to the Mississippi, was now purchased by the United States, and, in 1817, was erected into the’ Mississippi Territory.’ Fort Stoddard was built near the confluence of the Alabama and Tombigbee, and the county of Washington laid out, embracing a space out of which 20 counties in Alabama and 12 in Mississippi have since been made. “At the period of the second war with Great Britain, Alabama was a theatre of Indian warfare, as a great part of the State was then 674

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ALABNAMA. inhabited by a number of tribes of In(lians, of whom the Creeks were the principal. In 1812, the Creeks having been stirred up to war by Tecumseh, the celebrated Shawnee warrior, commenced hostile opera tions.

In August, thev fell on Fort Mimms; the garrison made a desperate resistance, but out of three hundred men, women, and children, only seventeen survived the massacre. The adjoiniing, States were now roused to action. In November, General Jackson, assisted by Generals Coffee, Floyd, and Claiborne, entered the Indian country, and defeated the Indians at Talladega, where 290 of their warriors were slain. In November, General Floyd attacked the Creeks on their sacred ground, at Autossee. Four hundred of their houses were burned, and 200 of their bravest men were killed, among whom were the kings of Autossee and Tallahassee. “The last stand of the Creeks was at Tohopeka, a place called the ‘HorseShoe Bend.’

Here the Indians fought desperately, but were entirely defeated with the loss of nearly 600 men. The victory ended in the submission of the remaining warriors, and in 1814, a treaty of peace was concluded, and the Creeks have now removed westward of the Mississippi. In 1816, a cession was obtained from the Indians of all the territory from the head waters of the Coosa westward to Cotton Gin Point, and to a point running thence to Caney Creek on the Tennessee. The territorial government being established, the seat of government was located at St. Stephens. William W. Bibb was appointed Governor, and the first legislature was convened in 1818. “The floodgates of Virginia, the two Carolinas, Tennessee, Kentucky, and Georgia were now hoisted, and the mighty streams of emigration poured through them, spreading over the whole territory of Alabama. In 1819, Alabama was admitted into the Union as a sovereign State. The General Assembly convened at Huntsville, and W. W. Bibb was inaugurated Governor.”

- The State grew rapidly in wealth and population. In 1860, it was the fourth State of the South in importance, and the second in the amount of cotton produced. Slavery was the basis of its agriculture. On the 11th of January, 1861, the State seceded from the Union, and joined the Southern Confederacy. In the spring of 1862, after the fall of Fort Donnelson and Memphis, the northern part of the State became the scene of constant military operations, and continued Barber’s History of all the Western States, p. 573. 675

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. to be torn by the two armies till near the close of the war. The losses in the upper counties were immense, and the central counties were frequently desolated by raiding parties. The forts (Gainles and Morgan) defending the entrance to Mobile Bay were besieged and taken )by the United States forces in 1865, and in the same year the victory of Mobile Bay, the severest naval battle of the war, was won b,y the National forces under Admiral Farragut. The Southern Congress first met at Montgomery, the capital of the State, and there organized the new Confederacy. Montgomery was the capital of the Confederacy until its transfer to Richmond in May, 1861. After the close of the war a Provisional Government was established in Alabama, by the President of the United States. It was overturned by Congress, and in 1867 was included in the Third Military District. In November, 1867, a Convention met at Montgomery, and framed a State Constitution, which was ratified by the people on the 4th of February, 1868, and on the 25th of June, 1868, Cong,ress readmitted the State into the Union. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of the State are, Mobile, Tuscaloosa, Huntsville, Selma, Kingston, Tusculnbia, Decatur, Cahawba, and Marion MONrGOMERY, The capital and second city in the State, is situated in Montgomoery county, on the east bank of the Alabama River. Latitude 32~

21’ N., longitude 86~ 25’ W. It is 197 miles (by road) northeast of Mobile, or 331 miles by water, and 839 miles southwest of Washington. The city is located on rising ground, which increases in elevation as it recedes from the river. It is regularly laid out, is well built, and contains a number of handsome buildings. The State House is the principal building. It stands on Capitol Hill, at the head of Market street, and though small in size, is an imposing structure. It was in this building that the Provisional Government of the Southern Confederacy was organized.

The other prominent buildings are the churches, the Court House, the Theatre, and the Exchange Hotel. The schools of the city are numerous. The city contains many handsome private residences. It is lighted with 676

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ALABAMA. CAPITOL AT MIONTGOMIERY. gas, and is supplied with pure water from artesian \wvells ill the centre of the city. Montgomery is a place of considerable trade. It has direct conmmilunication by railway with all parts of the State and Union, and has water transportation along the navigable portion of tl-he Alabama and its tributaries. The Alabama is never closed by ice, and very rarely suffers from drought. Large steamers ply between Montgomery and Mobile during the entire year. Large steamers also ascend the Coosa River, as far as Wetumpka. About 75,000 bales of cotton are annually shipped from Montgomery. Several newspapers are published in Montgomery. The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 10,588. Montgomery was settled about the year 1792. It we a place of considerable importance during Jackson’s operations against the Creekl Indians, in 1813-14. In 1847 it became the capital of the State. The Provisional Congress of the Confederate States met at Montgomery in February, 1861, and there, in the same month, Jefferson Davis was inaugurated “President of the Confederate States.” The city continued to be the capital of the Confederacy until May, 1861. In April, 1865, the Confederates, upon evacuating the place, set fire to the cotton warehouses, and burned them together with 80,000 bales of cotton. A week later the arsenal, railway depots, and foundry were destroyed by the United States troops. 677

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TIlE GREAT REI’UBLIC. MOBILE, The largest city of Alabama, and the metropolis of the the State, is situated on the west bank of the Mobile River, just above its entrance into Mobile Bay. It is 197 miles southwest of Montgomery, 30 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, 165 miles east by north from New Orleans, and 1033 miles southwest of Washington. The city is built upon a level plain, about 15 feet above high water ill the bay, and is laid off with tolerable regularity. The streets are wide, and in the business portion of the city are paved. They are shaded with fine trees.

In this portion the city is compactly built. In the upper portion it is scattered over a great deal of ground. The general appearance of the city is llandsome, though there are no very fine public buildings. The business houses are generally plain. The private residences of the city will compare favorably with anything in the Union. As a rule they stand in the midst of large grounds, and the orange and finer fruits form a prominent part of the foliage with which they are surrounded. Government street is the most attractive in the city, and is the favorite pronmenade. The principal public building is the Custom House, a showy edifice of white marble. The others, the Mlunicipal _Builcinqs, the Theatre, the -Jarkets (the handsomest in the South), the Odd Fellozvs’ and Tempetance Halls, and the Battle House, the principal hotel. The churches are numerous and handsome. The Benevolent Institutions are, the Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, the Rontan Catholic MMale and Female Ophan Asylums, the Protestant Orphan Asylum, the United States Ylariite Hospital, and several societies for the relief of the poor and suffering. The schools of the city are excellent. There are 14 large public schools, and a number of private seminaries. The Mobile Colleye is a flourishing institution.

Spring Hill Colleye, 6 miles from the city, is regarded as one of the schools of Mobile. It is controlled by the Roman Catholic Church. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with spring water, brought from a distance of 2 miles in ironi pipes. It possesses an efficient police force, and a steam fire engine department. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. Ini 1870 the population was 32,184. The position of Mobile has made it a place of great commercial importance. It is the natural outlet of the great cotton country lying north of it, and watered by the Alabama and its tributaries. The 678

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ALABAMA. TIIE LANDING, MOBILE. city extends along the river shore for more than two miles east and west. The bay is shallow and difficult of navigation, and it is dangerous for vessels drawing more than 7 feet of water to attempt to reach the city. Large vessels lie near the mouth of the bay, and their cargoes are sent down to them on lighters or schooners.

Mobile is the second cotton port of the Union, ranking next to New Orleans in the amount of its shipments of this great staple. A large portion of its shipments are made direct to Europe. Previous to the civil war it exported annually about 632,000 bales of cotton. It is rapidly renewing its former importance. Considerable shipping is owned in the port. There is daily communication by steamboats wrth the towns on the Alabama and its tributaries, and with New Orleans by way of Lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain. A considerable trade is mnaintained by sailing vessels with the Atlantic and Gulf ports. The harbor is defeinded by Forts Morgan and Gaines. Mobile was settled in 1702 by the French under Bienville, and was for many years the capital of the Colony of Louisiana. Its early history is very interesting, but must be passed over here. In 1723 the seat of government was removed to New Orleans. In 1763 Mobile, with all that portion of Louisiana lying east of the Mississippi, and 679

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TItE GREAT REPUBLIC. north of Bayou Iberville, Lakes Maurepas and Pontchartrain, passed into the possession of Great Britain by the terms of the Treaty of Paris. In 1780 the fort and town were captured by the Spaniards, and in 1783 the occupancy of the place was confirmed to Spain by the cession to that Power of all the British possessions on the Gulf of Mexico. In April, 1813, the town was surrendered by the Spaniards to the United States forces under General Wilkinson, and since then it has remained in the possession of the Republic. In 1819 Mobile was incorporated as a city. It then contained a population of 800. During the civil war Mlobile was one of the principal ports of the Confederates. It was blockaded by the United States forces during the war. In the spring of 1865 Forts Morgan and Gaines were reduced by the United States army, and the Confederate fleet, under Admiral Buchanan, was defeated and destroyed by the squadron of Admiral Farragut, in the desperate battle of Mobile Bay. These successes on the part of the United States forces resulted in their occupation of the city of Mobile. MISCELLANY. BATTLE OF’HE

I-TORSE-SItOE BEND. The Creeks concentrated their forces at the great bend of the Tallapoosa, usu ally called HorseShoe by the whites, and Tohopeka by the Indianis, a word in their language said to signify a horseshoe.

The peninsula formed by the bend contained about 100 acres, on which was a village of some 200 houses. About 1000 Indians, from the adjoining districts, had fortified themselves on the peninsula with great skill, having a formidable breastwork built of large logs. They had also an ample supply of provisions and ammuinnition. On the 16thl of Iarchl, 1814, General Jackson, having received considerable reinforcements of volunteers from Tennessee, and friendly Indians, left Fort Strotlier with his whole disposable force, amounting to about 3000 of every description, on an expedition against this assemblage of Indians. He proceeded down the Coosa 60 miles to the mouth of Cedar Creek, where he established a post called Fort Williams, and proceeded on the 24th across the ridge of land dividing the waters of the Coosa from the Tallapoosa; and arrived at the great bend on the morning of the 27th, having the three preceding days opened a passage through thie wilderness of 52 miles. On the 26th, he passed the battle ground of the 22d of January, and left it 3 miles in his rear.

General Coffee was detached, with 700 cavalry and mounted gunmen, and 600
friendly Indians, to cross the river below the bend, secure the opposite banks. and prevent escape. Having crossed at the Little Island ford, 3
miles below the bend, his Indians were ordered silently to approach and line the banks of the river, while the mounted men occupied the adjoining heights, to guard against reinforcements, which might be expected from the OakfuLsky towns, 8 miles below. Lieutenant Beanl, at the same time, was ordered to occupy Little Island, at the fording place, to secure any that might attempt to escape in that direction. In the meantime, General Jackson, 680

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ALABAMA. with the artillery and infantry, moved on in slow and regular order to the isthlmus, and planted his guns on an eminence 150 yards in front of the breastwork. On perceiving that General Coffee had completed his arrangements below, lie opened a fire upon the fortification, but found hlie could make no other impression with his artillery than boring shot-holes tlhrou,gh the logs. General Coffee’s Indians, on the bank, hlearing, the roaring of the cannon in front, and observing considerable confusion on the peninsula, supposing the battle to be nearly won, crossed over and set fire to the village, and attacked the Creeks in the rear. At this momient General Jackson ordered an assault upon the works in fiont.

The regular troops, led by Colonel Williams, accompanied by a part of the militia of General Dougherty’s brigade, led onI by Colonel Russell, presently got possession of a part of the works, amid a tremendous fire from behllind tlhem. The advance guard was led by Colonel Sisler, and the left extremity of the line by Captain Gordon of the spies, and Captain MI’Marry, of General Jolhnson’s brigade of West Tennessee militia. The battle for a short time was obstinate, and folughlt musket to musket thlroughll the portholes; when the assailants succeeded in getting p)ossession of the opposite side of’ the works, and the contest ended. The Creeks were entirely routed, and the whole margin of the river strewed with the slain. The troops under General Jacksoni, and General Coffee’s Indians, who had crossed over into the peninsula, continued the work of destruction as long as there was a Creekl to be found. General Coffee, on se(ingl his Indians crossing over’, had ordered their places to be supplied on the bank by his riflemen; and every Indian that attempted to escape by swimming the river, or crossing the Little Island below, was met and slain by General Coffee’s troops. The battle, as long as any appearance of resistance remained, lasted five hours; the slaughlter c)ntinued until dark, and was renewed the next morning, when 16 more of thle unfortunate savages were hunted out of their hidling places and slain. Five hundred and fifty-seven warriors were found dead on the peninsula; among whlom was their famous prophet -Ianaliell, and two others, the principal instigators of the war; 250 more were estimatedcl to have been killed in crossing the river, and at other places, which were not found. General Jackson’s loss was 26 white men, and 23 Indians, killed; and 107 white men, and 47 Indians, wounded. This decisive victory put an end to the Creek war. In the short period of five months, from the 1st of November to the 1st of April, 2000 of their warriors, among whom were their principal prophets and kings, had been slain, most of thleir towns and villages burned, and the strong places in their territory occupied by the United States troops. After this battle, the miserable remnant of tlle hostile tribes submitted. Weatherford, the principal surviving chief andp)ropliet, who led the Indians at Fort Miamms, accompanied his surrender with this address to General Jackson: “I foulght at Fort Mimms-I fought the Georgia army-I did you all the injury I could.

Had I been supported as I was promised, I would have done 3you more. But my warriors are all killed. I can filght no longer. I look back with sorrow that I have brought destruction upon my nation. I am now in your power. Do with me as you please. I am a soldier.” 681

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MI S IS SIPPI. Area,…………. 47,156 Square Miles. Population in 186

0,……. 791,305 (Whites, 353.901; Negroes, 437,404.) Population ill 1870,…….. 89,019 THE State of Mississippi is situated between 30~ 20’

and 35~ N. latitude, and between 88~ 12’ and 91~ 40’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee, on the east by Alabama, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and Louisiana, and on the west by Louisiana and Arkansas, from which it is separated by the Mississippi River. Its extreme length, from north to southl, is about 400 miles, and its average width, from east to west, about 150 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. The northern and eastern sections of the State constitute a fine rolling country, which, extending westward, approaches the Mississippi in many parts in high bluffs or in high hills. The southern part of the State is level. Muchl of the State is marshy, while the country along the Yazoo and Sunflower rivers is almost a cofltinuous swamp, and exceedingly fertile. The northeastern counties are fine prairie land, and the southeastern covered with a dense growth of pine, known as the “Piney Woods.” The -}~ississippi River, already described, washes the entire western shore of the State. Its tributaries in this State are, beginning on the north, the Yazoo, Big Black, and Homoehito, and a number of small streams. The Yazoo is formed by the confluence of the Tallahatchie and Yallobusha rivers, at Leflore, in Carroll county. The general direction of the main stream and its branches is southwest. The former 682 f1;^

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‘OOZ’VA~ 41-11 do) SAlofil 11-11l,’ N()

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MISSISSIPPI. flows into the Mississippi about twelve miles above Vicksburg. It is 290 miles long, and flows through a country remarkable for its fertility. It is navigable for its entire length for steamers, at all seasolns of the year. It is very tortuous in its course, fully equalling the Mississippi in this respect. Its principal branch, the Tallahatchie, is said to be as long as the Yazoo, and is quite as serpentine in its course. It is navigable for 100 miles. The Sunflower River flows into the Yazoo near its mouth. The Big Black River rises ill Chloctaw county, flows southwest for 200 miles, and empties into the Mississippi at Grand Gulf. It is navigable for 50 miles. The country along its banks is highly fertile and is lined with fine cotton plantations, but is sickly. The Pearl River rises in the central part of the State and flows southwest to Jackson, the capital of the State, where it changes its course, and flows southeast, through Lake Borgne, into the Gulf of Mexico.

It forms the west boundary between the extreme southern part of Mississippi and Louisiana. It is 250 miles long, and is only navigable at high water, in consequence of beingobstructed by numerous sand-bars and accumulations of driftwood. The southeast part of the State is watered by the Pasc(iyoula, which is formed by the union of the Chickasawbay and Leaf rivers, which in their turn receive the waters of numerous small streams.

Light-draft steamers ascend the Pascagoula and the Leaf to a point 100
miles from the Gulf of Mexico. A chain of low islands extending along the southern coast, at some distance from the mainland, encloses a number of small sounds, of which Mississippi Sound and Biloxi Bay are the principal.

Lake Borgne lies partly in this State, and receives the waters of the Pearl River. CLIMATE. The climate varies in the northern and southern parts of the State. In the former it is mild and pleasant in the summnner, but severer in winter than the climate of the northeastern part of South Carolina. The writer can testify that northern Mississippi in winter deserves any title rather than that of the “Sunny South.” Fine apples and wheat are raised here. The climate of the southern part is hot and trying.

Tropical fruits ripen thoroughly here. The fig and the orange grow to great perfection writhiout requiring shelter. Cotton and Indian corn are raised here. 683

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‘lTIfE GisEAT AL REI’UI’LIC. PICKING COTTON. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The northeast part of the State, as we have said, is occupied by fine prairie lands. Here the soil consists of a rich black loam. In the southeast it is sandy. Fruits flourish here. The best lands lie between the Tennessee border and the Big Black River, particularly between the Yazoo and its tributaries and the Mississippi. Previous to the war cotton was the great staple, this State producing more of that article than any other member of the Union. Tile Report of the United States Bureau of Agriculture for March, 1868, thus speaks of the capacity of the State for producing other staples: “In the rich alluvial soils of Washington county,‘wheat was grown during the war, and its yield was thirty bushels per acre.’ White and red varieties have been grown to some extent in Yazoo; white preferred, as less liable to rust. In Leake, a preference is given 684

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MISSISSIPPI. to the hardier red wheat. IRed( wheat is preferred in Winston. In Pike, little attention is paid to wheat,‘though the grain is plump and the bran is thinner than in more northern latitudes.’ In De Soto, ‘wheat has never been to any extent an article made for market, though the county has two or three times before 1860 sent the first to the St. Louis market. In 1860, fully half the flour consumed was grown here; in 1866 and 1867, very little was grown, though the land in wheat in 1867
yielded a good crop. A very large breadthi of land is now in wheat.’ Tile usual time of sowing is between the 15th of October and first of November, though many sow ill the early part of October, and some in the latter portion of September. The time of harvesting is generally the last week in May; early varieties, with good season, are cut somewhat earlier. The length of the season is variously stated, from six to twelve months. The fact is, that stock are never fed to any appreciable extent, with the exception of horses and mules. Sheep and cattle pick up their living in the winter months, as in summer. It is true that sheep and horned stock, as well as horses, are sometimes treated to occasional winter pasturage upon rye or barley sown in September. With this help it is possible to keep large flocks of sheep, with little expense; and other kinds of farm animals may be brought through the winter in good condition without other feed. The price of pasturage is estimated at very low rates; in some counties as low as $2 or $3 per season, while others range higher, up to $1 per monthl. Figs and peaches everywhere abound, growing rapidly and bearing profusely and surely. Unitil lately no profit was derived firom them, and now only on the line of railroad running lengthwise through the State. Formerly peaches were pecuniarily profitable only in port-nmaking.

The crop is very sure in the southern part of the State; in the northeril, it is sometimes injured by frosts. Apples do pretty well, if kinds are selected which suit the climate. Small fruits prod(lpce in great abundance. The pear is apt to blight, but is favorably mentioned in some localities. Grapes do well in the poorest soils, and are firee from disease.” Since the war much of the land that was formerly planted inll cotton has been devoted to raising wheat and corn. In 1869 there were 5,065,755 acres of cultivated landl inl Mississippi. The other agricultural returns for the same year were as follows: Bales of cotton,…………. Pounds of rice (estimated.)…………… 685

72.-),OOO 400.000

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bushels of wheat,……… Indian corn,……. peas and beanls,…… ” sweet potatoes (estimated), Tons of hay,………..

Pounds of butter,……. Number of horses,……… ” mules and asses,….

” milch cows,……. sheep……… ” swine……… ” young cattle,…….. Value of domestic animals…… COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.

Mississippi has no foreign commerce of her own. Her cotton is exported from Mobile and New Orleans, and her imports are drawn mainly through New York and New Orleans. Lumber and naval stores are becoming prominent articles of export. But little attention is paid to manufactures, agriculture being the principal pursuit of the people. In 1860 the State contained 976 manufacturing establishments, employing a capital of $4,384,492, and yielding an annual product of $6,590, 687. Of t-he above 227 were sawmills, producing $1,823,627 worth of lumber. INTERNAL

IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868 there were in Mississippi 867 miles of completed railroads, constructed at a cost of $25,417,000. The main line of travel from New York to New Orleans, and fromi the west to that city, passes through the centre of the State from the Tennessee line southward into Louisiana. Another line, from Vicksburg to the Alabama line, crosses the centre of the State, from west to east, and the road from Mobile to the Ohio River, extends from north to south, through almost the entire eastern tier of counties, while the northeast county is crossed by the great line from Memphis to Chattanooga, Tenn., and the Atlantic States. These roads place all points of the State within rapid communication with each other and with the whole country. EDUCATION. In 1860, there were in the State, 13 colleges, with 856 students; 169 academies and other schools, with 7974
pupils; and 1116 public schools, with 30,970 pupils. The school system of this State was one of the best in the South, but was entirely broken up by the civil war. 686 267,000 . 30,000,000 1,988,806 4,500,000 40,000 ~

5,006,610 117,870 121,960 300,101 500,340 ~ 1,750,101 600,708 .

$49,891,692

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MISSISSIPPI. The new Constitution makes a lil)eral provision for the cause of education. The school system is placed under the control of a State Superintendent and a Board of Education, who nominate to the State Senate suitable persons for the office of County Superintendent. Each county constitutes a separate school district, also each city of more than 5000
inhabitants. The State Board and Superintendent have power to prescribe the course of studies for the schools. The immediate management of the schools is confided to local Boards of School Directors appointed by the County Superintendents. The Constitution requires an annual taxation by the County Supervisors upon the taxable property of each district, of not more than ten mills on the dollar, for schoolhouse purposes, and of not more than five mills on the dollar for a teachers’ fund. It is hoped that the new system will be fairly inaugurated within the present year. The University of Mississippi, at Oxford, was the principal institution of learning in the State previous to the war, and held a deservedly high rank in the South. It was closed during the war, but has since resumed its exercises with success. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Asylum for the Blind contains about 21 pupils, and is located at Jackson. The Insane Hospital is at the same place, and contains about 150 patients. The Deaf and Dumb of the State have been for some years cared for at the Louisiana Asylum at Baton Rouge. The State Penitentiary, at Jackson, contains at present about 3.50 prisoners, and is ill a rather embarrassed condition.

FINANCES. In 1870 there was no public debt due by the State. From October 16th, 1865, to March 1, 1870, the total receipts of the Treasury of the State were $4,351,741, of which $2,267,488 was in uncurrent funds. The disbursements for the same period was $2,319,532. GOVERNMENT. The State election, under the provisions of the Reconstruction Act, took place on the 30th of November, and the 1st of December, 1869, and at this election the new Constitution of the State was ratified by the people. On the 17th of February, 1870, the State was readmitted into the Union. The State Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGov 687

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor of Public Accounts, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate of 33 mnembers, and a House of Representatives of 107 members. By the terms of the Constitution, all nmale inhabitants of this State, except idiots and insane persons, and Indians not taxed, citizens of the United States, or naturalized, 21 years of age, who have resided in the State six months, and in the county one month, are entitled to vote at the elections, unless disqualified by reason of crime. There is a Supreme Court, consisting of three judges appointed by the Governor. These elect one of their number to the office of Chief Justice. It is a high court of errors and appeals. The State is divided into 15 districts, each possessing its Circuit Court presided over by a judge, and having criminal jurisdiction and jurisdiction in civil suits at common law. The judges of these courts are prohibited from practising law in any of the State or United States courts during their terms of office. For the purposes of Chancery Courts, the State is divided into 20 districts, for each of which a Chancellor is to be appointed by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate. A Chancery Court is to be held in each county four times a year. The seat of Government is located at Jackson. HISTORY.

Fernando de Soto and his companions, who entered the State in 1540, were the first Europeans who trod the soil of Mississippi. At that time the present territory of the State was divided between the Clioctaw, Chickasaw and Natchez Indians. La Salle descended the Mississippi River from the Illinois country to the Gulf in 1681, and in 1700, Iberville, the Frence Governor of Lotlisiania, planted a colony on Ship Island, on the Gulf coast, from which the settlement was removed to Biloxi on the mainland. In 1716, BienIville, then Governor of Louisiana, established a post on the Mississippi River, and called it 1;ort Rosalie. In 1700, Iberville had designated this spot as a good site fo)ra towne, and had called it Rosalie, in honor of Rosalie Countess of Pontchartrain, of France. The present city of Natchez occupies this site. In 1729, the Natchez Indians, becoming alarmed at the growing power of the French, resolved to exterminate them. On the 28th of November, of this year, they fell upon the settlement at Fort RItosalie, and massacred the garrison and(
settlers, 700 in number When the 688 \

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MISSISSIPPI. new-s of this terrible tragedy reached New Orleans, Bienville resolved to retzi ate severely upon the aggressors. He applied to the Clcieka saw s, tile enemies of the Natchiez, for assistance, and was fiurnished by th wii with 1600 warriors. With these and his own troops, Bieln ville l l, d the Natchlez in their fort, but they escaped under cover of the i’,tiht, and fled west of the Mississippi. They were followed by the FC rench and forced to surrender; after which, they were taken to News Oileans, and transported to the Island of St. Domingio, and sold as slaves. Being a small nation, these measures literally exter minate(l them. It \was well known to the French that the Chickasaws, a powerful tribe d(\velling in the fertile regions of the upper Tombigbee, had incited the Natchlez against them, and Bienville resolved to turn his arms against them. In 1736, he sailed from New Orleans to Mobile with a strong force of French troops and 1200 Choctaw warriors. Upon reaching Mobile, he ascended the Tombigbee River, in boats, for 500 miles, to the southeastern border of the present county of Pontotoc. The site of his landing is now known as Cotton Gin Port. The Chickasaw fort, a powerful stronghold, was about 25 miles from this point. Having taken measures to secure his boats, Bienville advanced against the enemy. He made a determined assault on the hostile fort, but was repulsed with a loss of 100 men, which so dis(ourag,ed him that he dismissed the Choctaws with presents, threw his caninon in the Tombigbee, and reeambarking in his boats, floated down the river to Mobile, whence he returned to New Orleans. “Oae important part of the plan of the campaign against the Chickasaws was to have the cooperation of a force of French and In(ians from Canada. D’Artaguette, the pride and flower of the French at the North, procured the aid of’

Chicago,’ the Illinois chief from the shore of Lake Michigan. His lieutenant was the gallant T,incenes, from the settlement on the Wabl)ash.

These heroes came down the river unobserved to the last Chickasaw bluff, and from thence penetrated into the heart of the country. On the 10thl of May they encamped, it is supposed, about six miles east of the present town of Pontotoc, near the appointed place of rendezvous with the force of Bienville. Having waited for some time in vain for intelligence from the chief commander, the Indian allies of D’Artaguette became imnpatient for war and plunder, and could not be restrained, when D’Artaguette consented to lead them to the attack. He drove the Chickasaws from two of their fortified villages, but was severely wounded in 44 689

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. his attack on the third. His allies, the red men of Illinois, dismayed at this check, fled precipitately, and D’Artaguette was left weltering in his blood. Vincennes, his lieutenant, and the Jesuit Senat, their spiritual guide and friend, refusing to fly, shared the captivity of their gallant leader. They were treated with great care and attention by the Chickasaws, who were in hopes of obtaining a great ransom from Bienville, then advancing into their country. After his retreat, the Chlickasaws, despairing of receiving anything for their prisoners, tortured and burnt them over a slow fire, leaving but one alive to relate their fate to their countrymen.” In 1763 the French possessions east of the Mississippi, and the Spanish province of Florida, passed into the hanlds of the English. In 1783 the country north of the 31st parallel was included within the limits of the United States. The territory of Georgia extended under its charter to the Mississippi; and in 1795 was sold to the General Government by the Legislature of Georgia. In 1798 the territory of Mississippi was organized, and on the 10th of December, 1817 was admitted into the Union as a State. On the 9th of January, 1861, the State seceded from the Union and joined the Southern Confederacy, of which Jefferson Davis, an eminenIt citizen of Mississippi, was chosen President. In 1862
the northern part of the State became the scene of military operations, and continued to be occupied at various times by the tNwo armies until the close of the war. The bloody battles of Inka, and Corinth, and a number of minor conflicts, were fought in this part of Mississippi. In 1862 the city of Vicksburg, on the Mississippi River, which was said to be the strongest place in the South, was attacked by the Federal fleet. From this time until its capture by General Grant in July, 1863, it was the object of the most persistent efforts of the United States forces. During the operations connected with the siege of this place, severe battles were fought at Jackson, Chamnlpion Hills, and other points back of the city. The State was traversed repeatedly byv raiding parties of cavalry fromn the Union lines, which inflicted great damage upon it. The destruction of property caused by the war was immense. Industry of all kinds was paralyzed, and at the close of the struggle the state of affairs was made temporarily worse by the abolition of slavery, which threw the labor system into confusion.

Upon the return of peace a Provisional Government was established in the State by the President of the United States. It was repudiated and abolished by Congress, and in 1867 the State was made a part 690

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MISSISSIPPI. of the Fourth Military District. It remailned subject to military rule until the close of the year 1869, when it was readmitted into the Union. CITIES AND TOW-NS. The cities and towns, besides the capital, are, Vicksburg, Natchez, Columbus, Holly Springs, Grenada, Oxford, Canton, Raymnond, Port Gibson, and Corinth. There are no large cities in Mississippi. JACKSON, The capital of the State, is situated in Hinds county, on the right bank of the Pearl River. Latitude, 32~ 23’ N.; longitude, 90~ 8’ W. It is 45 miles east of Vicksburg, and 1010 miles southwest of Washington. It is built oni a level plain, is regularly laid out, and contains some handsome buildings, but is indifferently-built in the main. The State House is a handsome structure, as is also the Governor’s -I~ansioft. The other public buildings are, the S(tte Lun,atic Asylum, the Penitettiary, and the Unite( States Land Office. It cointains several churches and schools, and 3 newspaper offices, and is lighted with gas. In 1870 the population was 4234. Jackson is the point of intersection of the railway line from the North and West with that from Vicksburg to Meridian, Mobile, etc., and previous to the war possessed a considerable trade, shipping annually about 30,000 bales of cotton. It is gradually recovering this 691 N

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THE GREAT REPUBLIIC. NATCHEZ. trade. The Pearl River is navigable from its mouth to the city for slnall steamers. Jackson suffered severely from the war. It was twice captured by the Federal armies, and its streets were the scene of severe battles. The city and public buildings were greatly damaged by the effects of the cannonading and by fire. NATCHEZ, The largest city in the State, is situated in Adams county, on the east bank of the Mississippi River, 100 miles southwest of Jackson, and 279 miles (by water) northwest of New Orleans. It is situated on a bluff, 200 feet in height, overlooking the river and the great cypress swamps of Louisiana. The business portion of the city is located along the river shore. This portion is known as Natchez-iunder-theHill, and it is here that the river trade, which is the principal source of the city’s prosperity, is conducted. The retail stores and private residences are located on the bluff. The city proper is regularly laid out and well built. The principal pul)ic buildings are handsome edifices. They are the Court House, Orphan Asylutm, and Masonic Hall. The streets are wide, and are well shaded. The private residences are among the handsomest in the South, and are pleasantly situated in the midst of gardens adorned with flowers, orange trees, etc. There are 6 churches, a hospital, a number of schools, and 2 newspaper offices in the city. Its public 692

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MISSISSIPPI. school is one of the best in the South. The city is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, it contained 9057 inhabitants. Natchez is situated in the midst of a rich agricultural country, with which it carries on a large and growing trade. It is one of the prilncipal towns on the Mississippi, and its river trade is extensive and valuable. Large quantities of cotton are shipped from Natchez to New Orleans. Natchez was settled in 1716 by the French, under Bienville. It was the seat of the famous tribe of Natchez Indians. Bienville called his settlement Fort Rosalie. In 1729, the garrison of the fort was massacred by the Indians. The French at New Orleans punished this outrage by exterminating the lNatchez. By the peace of 1763, the Natchez District passed into the hands of Great Britain, and the next year it was included in West Florida. In 1783, it passed into the possession of Spain with the province of Florida. In 1796, it was ceded by Spain to the United States, though the delivery was not made until 1798. In 1803, it was incorporated as a city. During the civil war, it was captured by the forces of the United States. YICKSBURG, The second city of the State, is situated in Warren county, on the right bank of the Mississippi, 45 miles west of Jackson, and 395 miles by water above New Orleans. The city is built along a range of hills which rise abruptly from the river. The principal streets run parallel with the river, and the others cross them at rightangles.

The principal business streets are those nearest the river. Vicksburg is one of the best built cities in the South. The private residences are situated on the crest of the hills, and are generally neat and tasteful, and often very handsome in appearance. The principal building is the Court -House, a handsome structure of white marble, which forms the principal object in any view of the city. The city contains 5 churches, 2 newspaper offices, and several schools. Its public school is the best in the State.

It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 12,443. Vicksburg is the most important commercial town in the State. It has direct railway communication with the North and West, and a railway is in progress from De Soto directly opposite the city to Shreveport, La., and Marshal, Texas. It carries on a large river trade, and previous to the war about 125,000 bales of cotton were 693

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. shipped from this city to New Orleans. The most of this was brought into the city by the railway. It is slowly recovering this trade. Vicksburg was settled in the early part of the present century, and was named from Mr. Vick, one of the original settlers. It was incorporated as a town in 1825, and as a city in 1836. At an early period of the civil war, it was fortified by the Confederates, and was their principal stronghold oni the Mississippi River. On the 4th of July, 1863, it was surrendered to the United States army under General Grant, after one of the most memorable defences on record. The city suffered greatly during the siege, and after the close of the war the entire lower part was nearly destroyed by fire. Since then, it has been rebuilt on a handsome scale. It is one of the pleasantest and most cultivated cities in the South, and one of the most enterprising. MISCELLANIES. EXTERMINATION OF

THE NATCHEZ INDIANS. This remarkable tribe, the most civilized of all the original inhabitants of the States, dwelt in the vicinity of the present city of Natchez. Their religion, in some respects, resembled that of the fire-worshippers of Persia. Fire was the emblem of their divinity; the sun was their god: their chiefs were called “suns,” and their king was called the “Great Sun.” In their principal temple a perpetual fire was kept burning by the ministering priest, who likewise offered sacrifices of the first fruits of the chase. In extreme cases, they offered sacrifices of infant children, to appease the wrath of the deity. When Iberville was there, one of the temples was struck by lightning and set on fire. The keeper of the fane solicited the squaws to throw their little ones into the fire to appease the angry divinity, and four infants were thus sacrificed before the French could prevail on them to desist from the horrid rites. After Iberville reached the Natchez tribe, the Great Sun, or king of the confederacy, having heard of the approach of the French commandant, determined to pay him a visit in person. As he advanced to the quarters of Iberville, he was borne upon the shoulders of some of his men, and attended by a great retinue of his people. He bade Iberville a hearty welcome, and showed him the most marked attention and kindness during his stay. A treaty of friendship was concluded, with permission to build a fort and to establish a trading-post among them; which was, however, deferred for many years. A few stragglers soon after took up their abode among the Natchez; but no regular settlement was made until 1716, when Bienville, Governor of Louisiana, erected Fort Rosalie, which is supposed to have stood near the eastern limit of the present city of Natchez. Grand or Great Sun, the chief of the Natchez, was at first the friend of the whites, until the overbearing disposition of one man brought destruction on the whole colony. The residence of the Great Sun was a beautiful village, called the TW7ite Apple. This village spread over a space of nearly 3 miles in extent, and stood about 12 miles south of the fort, near the mouth of Second Creek, and 694

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‘I-}t -‘YX,T _________ ;~~~(~~>~~ 9 ~’

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MISSISSIPPI. 3 miles east of the Mississippi. M. de Chopart, the commandant, waas guilty of great injustice toward the Indians, and went so far as to command the Great Sun to leave the village of his ancestors, as he wanted the ground for his own purposes. The Great Sun, finding Chopart deaf to all his entreaties, formed a plot to rid his country of the tyrant who oppressed them. Previous to the tragedy, the Sieur de Mlace, ensign of the garrison, received advice of the intention of the Natchez, thlrough a young Indian girl who loved him. She told him, crying, that her nation intended to massacre the French. Amazed at this story, lie questioneci his mistress. Her simple answers, and her tender tears, left him no room to doubt of the plot. He informed Chopart of it, who forthwith put him under arrest for givingo a false alarm. The following is from “Monette’s History of the Valley of the Mississippi: “At length the fatal day arrived. It was November 29th, 1729. Early in the morning Great Sun repaired, with a few chosen warriors, to Fort Rosalie, and all were well armed with knives and other concealed weapons. ” The company had recently sent up a large supply of powder and lead, and provisions for the use of the post. The Indians had recourse to stratagem to procure a supply of ammunition, pretending that they were preparing for a great hunlting excursion. Before they set out, they wished to purchase a supply of ammunition, and they had brought corn and poultry to barter for powder and lead. Having placed the garrison off their guard, a number of Indians were permitted to enter the fort, and others were distributed about the company’s warehouse. Upon a certain signal from the Great Sun, the Indians immediately drew their concealed weapons, and commenced the carnage by one simultaneous and furious massacre of the garrison, and all who were in and near the warehouse.

Other parties, distributed through the contiguous settlements, carried on the bloody work in every hlouse as soon as the smoke was seen to rise from the houses near the fort. “The massacre commenced at 9 o’clock in the morning, and before noon the whole of the male population of the French colony on St. Cathlarine (consisting of about 700 souls) were sleeping the sleep of death. The slaves were spared for the service of the victors, and the females and children were reserved as prisoners of war. Chopart fell among the first victims; and, as the chiefs disdained to stain their hands with his despised blood, hle was dispatched by the hand of a common Indian. Two mechanics, a tailor, and a carpenter were spared, because they mighlt be useful to the Indians. AWhile the massacre was progressing, the Great Sun seated himself in the spacious warehouse of the company, and, with apparent unconcern and complacenlcy, sat and smoked his pipe while his warriors were depositing the heads of the French garrison in a pyramid at his feet. The head of Chlopart was placed in the centre, surmounting those of his officers and soldiers. So soon as the warriors informed the Great Sun that the last Frenchman had ceased to live, he commanded the pillage to commence. The negro slaves were employed in bringing out the plunder for distrilbution. The powder and military stores were reserved for public use in future emergencies. “While the ardent spirits remained, the day and the night alike presented one continued scene of savage triumph and drunken revelry. AVith hlorrid( yells they spent their orgies in dancing over the mangled bodies of their enemies, which lay strewed in every quarter where they had fallen in the general carnag)e. lere, unburied, they remainedl a prey for dogs and hungry vultures. Every vestige of the houses and dwellings in all the settlements were reduced to ashes. 695

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. “Two soldiers only, who happened to be absent in the woods at the time of the massacre, escaped to bear the melancholy tidings to New Orleans. As they approached the fort and heard the deafening, yells of the savages, and saw tlhe columns of smioke and flame ascending from the buildings, they w-ell jud(gel( the fate of thleir countrymen. They concealed themselves until they could )po(cure a boat or canoe to descend the river to New Orleans, where they arrive(d a few days afterward, and told the sad story of the colony on the St. Catliarin(-e. ” The same fate w-as shared by the colony on the Yazoo, near Fort St. Peter, and by those on the Washita, at Sicily Island, and near the present tovwn of Ionroe.

Dismay and terror were spread over every settlement in the pioivince. New Orleans was filled with mourning and sadness for the fate of friends and couutntrymen. “The whole number of victims slain in this massacre amounted to more than 200 men, besides a fetw women and some negroes, who attempted to defend their masters. Ninety-two women and 155 children were taken prisoners. Among the victims were Father Poisson, the Jesuit missionary; Laloire, the principal agent of the company; M. Kollys and Son, who had purchased M. Ilul)ert’s interest, and had just arrived to take possession.” Ahlen the news of this terrible disaster reached New Orleans, the French cornmeneed a war of extermination against the Natclhez. The tribe eventually were driven across the Mlississippi, and finally scattered and extirpated. The Great Sun and his principal war chlliefs, falling into the hands of the French, were shipped to St. Domingo and sold as slaves. Some of the poor prisoners were treated with excessive cruelty; four of the men and two of the women were publicly burned to death at New Orleans. Some Tonica Indianis, who had )brought down a Natchez woman, whom they had discovered in the woods, were allowed to execute her in the same manner. The unfortunate woman was led forthl to a platform erected near the levee, and, surrounded by the whole population, was slowly consumed l)y the flames! She supported lher tortures with stoical fortitude, not shedding a tear. “On the contrary,” says Gayarre, ” she upl)raided her torturers with their want of skill, flinging at them every opprobrious epithlet she could thllink of.” The scattered remnants of the tribe sought an asylum among the Chlickasaws and other tribes who were hostile to the French. Since that time, thle individuality of the Natcliez tribe has been swallowed up in the nations with whom they were incorporated. Yet no tribe has left so proud a memorial of their courage, their independent spirit, and their contempt of death in defence of their righlts and liberties.

Thle city of Natchez is their monumenit, standing, ul)ol tlhe field of thleir glory. Suchl is the brief history of the Natchlez Indians, who are now considered extinct. In refinement and intelligence they were equal, if not superior, to any other tribe north of Mexico. In courage and stratagem they were inferior to none. Their form was noble and command(ling; their st-lture was seldomi under 6 feet, and their persons were straight and athlletic. Their countenanice indicated more intelligence than is commonly found in savages. The head was compressed from the os frontis to the occipult, so that the forehead al)l)eared high and retreating, while the occiput was coimpressed almost in a line withll tlhe neck and shoulders.

This peculiarity, as well as their straight, erect torm, is ascribed to the pressure of bandages during infancy. Some of thle rellaiuiing individuals of thle Natclhez tribe were in thle town of Natcliez as late as the year 1782, or more than half a century after the Natchlez massacre.

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AIISSISSIPPI. MASON, THE OUTLAW. Among the incidents in the early history of the Mississippi Territory was the violent death of the notorious robber, Mason. This fearless bandit had become the terror of the routes from New Orleans and Natchez through the Indian na tions. After the organization of the Territorial Government, and the opening of roads through the wilderness to Tennessee, the return of traders, supercargo)es, and boatmen to the Northern settlemnents, with the proceeds of their voyage, was on foot and on horseback, in parties for mutual protection, through the Indian nations; and often rich treasures of specie were packed on mules and horses over these long and toilsome journeys. Nor was it a matter of surprise, in a dreary wilderness, that bandits should infest such a route. It was in the year 1802, when all travel and intercourse from New Orleans and the Mississippi Territory was necessarily by way of this solitary trace, or by the slow-ascending barge and keel, that Mason made his appearance in the Mississippi Territory. Long accustomed to robbery and murder upon the Lower Ohio, during the Spanish dominion on the Mississippi, and pressed by the rapid approach of the American population, he deserted the ” Cave in the Rock,” on the Ohio, and began to infest the great Natchez Trace, where the rich proceeds of the river trade were the tempting prize, and where he soon became the terror of every peaceful traveller through the wilderness. Associated with him were his two sons and a few other desperate miscreants; and the name of Mason and his band was known and dreaded from the morasses of the southern frontier to the silent shades of the Tennessee River. The outrages of Mason became more frequent and sanguinary. One day found him marauding on the banks of the Pearl, against the life and fortune of the trader; and, before pursuit was organized, the hunter, attracted by the descending sweep of the solitary vulture, learned the story of another robbery and murder on the remote shores of the Mississippi. Their depredations became at last so frequent and daring, that the people of the territory were driven to adopt measures for their apprehension. But such was the knowledge of the wilderness possessed by the wily bandit, and such his untiring vigilance and activity, that for a time he baffled every attempt for his capture.

Treachery at last, however, effected what stratagem, enterprise, and courage had in vain attempted. A citizen of great respectability, passing with his sons through the wilderness, was plundered by the bandits. Their lives were, however, spared, and they returned to the settlement. Public feeling was now excited, and the Governor of the Territory found it necessary to act. Governor Claiborne accordingly offered a liberal reward for the robber, Mason, dead or alive. The proclamation was widely distributed, and a copy of it reached Mason himself, who indulged in much merriment on the occasion. Two of his band, however, tempted by the large reward, concerted a plan by which they might obtain it. An opportunity soon occurred; and while Mason, in company with the two conspirators, was counting out some ill-gotten plunder, a tomahawk was buried in his brain.

His head was severed from his body and borne in triumph to \Wasliington, then the seat of the Territorial Government. The hea(l of Mason was recognized by many, and identified by all who read the proclamation, as the head entirely corresponded with the description given of certain scars and peculiar marks. Some delay, however, occurred in paying over the reward, owing to the slender state of the treasury. Meantime, a great 607

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. assemblage from all the adjacent country had taken place, to view the grim and ghastly head of the robber chief. They were not less inspired with curiosity to see and converse with the individual whose prowess had delivered the country of so great a scourge. Among those spectators were the two young men, who, unfortunately for these traitors, recognized them as companions of Mason in the robbery of their father. It is unnecessary to say that treachery met its just reward, and that justice was also satisfied. The reward was not only withheld, but the robbers were imprisoned, and, on the full evidence of their guilt, condemned and executed at Greenville, Jefferson county. The band of MIason, being thus deprived of their leader and two of his most efficient men, dispersed and fled the country. Tlhus terminated the terrors which had infested the route through the Indian nations, known to travellers as the ” Natchez and Nashville Trace.” 698

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LOUISI ANA. Area,…………. Population in 1860……… (Whites, 357,629. Negroes, 350,373) Population in 1870,……….. THE State of Louisiana is situated between 29~ and 33~ N. latitude, and between 88~ 50’

and 94~ 20’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north bv Arkansas and Mississippi, on the east by Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico, and on the west by:’.!as. Its extreme length from east to west is about 292 miles, a-.. its extreme width from north to south about 250 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. The surface of the entire State is low and flat, its highest point being less than 200 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico. The southern portion is so low that it is always subject to overflows, when the rivers are full. In the northern part, the country is slightly rolling, except in the northwest, where it is converted into a series of extensive marshes by the Red River and its tributaries. The Gulf coast is extensive, and is cut up into innumerable bays, lakes, bayous, and inlets. The principal are, Lake Borgne in the southeast, which is, strictly speaking, a bay through which Lake Pontchartrain discharges its waters into the Gulf. Black Lake Bay lies south of this. On the southern coast are (beginning on the east) grest, Barataria, Timbalier, Terre Bonne, Pelto Lake, Caillou, Atchafalava, Cote Blanche, Vermnilion bays, and Mermenteau, Calcasiet and Sabine lakes. The majority of these afford excellent harl)ors. They are principally the extensions of the rivers with which lower 699

LOG’~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 41,346 Square M,Iiles.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Louisiana is cut up. A number of low islands lie along the coast. Some of them are productive, while others are worthless. Small lakes are very numerous in the southern part of the State, the whole of which is more or less marshy. Lakes MAaurepas and Pontchartrain lie in the southeast part of the State, near the city of New Orleans. Lake MIaurepas is but an extension of the Amite River and flows into Lake Pontchartrain, which iii its turn pours its waters through Lake Borgne into the Gulf.

Lake Pontchartrain is about 40 miles long and from 8 to 24 miles wide, and has a maximum depth of from 16 to 20 feet. It is navigable for steamers, and is connected with New Orleans by a canal. Several pleasant towns lie on its shores. The Jfissis.ippi Rives, already described, forms the eastern bound ary of the northern half of this State, as far as the southern line of the State of Mississippi. It then flows southeast through the centre of lower ILouisiana, and empties into the Gulf of Mexico, in the extreme southeast corner of the State. It receives the waters of the Red River just above the Mississippi line, and pours its own flood into the Gulf through several channels besides its own mouths. These channels are called bayous, and leave the main stream below the mouth of the Red River, and west of the Mississippi. They empty into the Gulf in the southern part of the State, and are almost all of them navigable for steamers. In this way New Orleans has abundant direct water communication with the southwest parishes. The principal of these are the Atchafalaya and Lafourche rivers or bayous, the former 250, and the latter 150 miles long. The former is more properly an outlet of the Red than of the Mississippi, and is believed to have been the original channel of the Red River. The Red River, already described, flows across the State from northwest to southeast. It is navigable for steamers to the border of Arkansas. Its principal branch, the TVashita, flows into it near its mouth, and is 500 miles long. It is navigable for large steamers to Camden in Arkansas, 300 miles from its mouth. The TJJashita, in its turn, receives the waters of the Tensas, a short distance above its mouth. This river is 250 miles long, and navigable for 150 miles. The Teche kieei’, or,,?J/oU, commences a short distance southeast of Alexandria, on t}il Red RLiver, and flows southeast into the Gulf of Mexico. It is about 2’)0
niles long, is very tortuous, and flows through a low, flat prairie region iii which cotton and sugar grow to great perfection. It is navigable at high water for nearly its entire length. The Cat 700

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LOUISIANA. casieu River, about 250 miles long, drains the southwest part of the State. It is not navigable. The Sabine River, which rises in Texas, and has a length of about 500 miles, forms a part of the western boundary of Louisiana, and flows into Sabine Lake. It is shlallow at its mouth, and navigable only for very small steamers at high water. MINERALS. “In the soil and timber are to be found the chief resources of this State, but few minerals, except salt, having as yet been developed or discovered, though some coal, iron, and copper are reported to exist in Union parish. Timber is abundant in all parts of the State, embracing many varieties of oak, ash, cottonwood, cypress, gun, elm, sycamore, pecan, hackberry, pine, etc., and presenting great inducements for development, some of the pine forests capable of producing quantities of turpentine. On one of the islands within the limits of St. Mary’s parish-Petite Anse or Salt Island-there exists an immense bed of salt. By boring, parties have proved that the bed is half a mile square, and it may extend a mile or more. They have gone thirty-eighlt feet into the solid salt, and find no signs of the bottom of the stratum. The surface is about on a level with tidewater, and the earth covers the salt from eleven to thirty feet. On the stirface of the salt they found a soil like that of the surrounding marshes, and above this sedge or marsh grass in a good state of preservation. Above the latter the soil appears to be the workings of the hillsides above.”

CLIMATE. The climate is mild as a general rule, but the winters are severer than those of the Atlantic States lying along the same parallel.

The summers are long, hot, and dry, and cause a poisonous exhalation from the marshy soil which is the fruitful source of yellow fever. The spring is early and pleasant. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The best soil is along the rivers and in the marshy district. Almost all the land in the lower part of the State is fertile, but in the northern part, away from the rivers, it is poor. The swamIIp lands are easily drained, and are almost inexhaustible. Tropical fi-uits grow well in the southern parishes, but neither the orange nor the sugarcane thrives above the 31st parallel of north latitude, which marks the southern boundary of the western part of the State of Mississippi. In the northern part the fruits of the Middle States thrive. 701

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. GATHERING SUGARCANE. The Report of the Bureau of Agriculture for 1868 thus speaks of this State: “Cotton, sugar, corn, and potatoes are the principal crops in Louisiana, and before the war the cultivation of the first two named was very profitable, but our correspondents uniformly represent the production of cotton as ruinous to the planter during the past year. Jackson parish reports two hundred pounds of lint cotton to the acre, fifteen bushels of corn, one hundred and fifty bushels of sweet potatoes, and twenty bushels of peas. Tensas parish, one to one and a half bales to the acre in good season, fifty to seventy-five bushels of corn; in cultivation, nine acres of cotton allotted to one laborer, and five acres of corn. In Union parish about six bales of cotton to the hand was expected before the war. In Carroll parish cotton will produce 702

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LOUISIANA. six hundred pounds lint to the acre when newly cultivated, and a fair laborer can make eight bales of cotton and one hundred bushels of corn, yielding about p500 to the hand; but under the present system the average is two and a half bales cotton and twentyfive bushels corn to the hand. Prior to the war the parish of Rapides produced from 30,000 to 40,000 bales cotton, 15,000 to 18,000 hogsheads sugar, and 30,000 barrels molasses, but the production has much deteriorated, though with the labor and capital at command, the capabilities are still as great. In the southern tier of parishes sugar, rice, and tobacco are made specialties, and fruits are extensively grown, with great inducements for the increase of the latter production. Louisiana possesses great capabilities for fruit culture, and the climate and soil present strong inducements to persons desiring to engage in such production. In St. Mary’s parish they have fruits of various kinds from April to Novemiber:‘The Japan plumn grows all winter and ripens in April; dewberries also ripen in April, and grow in abundance; strawberries, blackberries, and mulberries ripen in Miay; plunms in June; peaches, quinces, and figs in July; and glapes and apples in August. The muscadine, a species of scupperinoin(,’ grows wild, and ripens in August; pears ripen in August, and grow in great perfection orangeas ripen in October, and usually relmain good on the trees till December; bananas, limes, and lemons ripen in October.’ The yield of oranges per acre is enormous. Our correspondent writes that’it is usual to plant about one hundred trees to the acre below New Orleans on the river.

Some orchards yield from $10,000 to $20,000 annually. A full-grown tree will bear 1 000 oranges, and a single tree has been known to yield 5000
oranges. Trees commence bearing when five years old, whllen properly managed.’ Wvhat we quote in regard to the capabilities of this parish may be said, with slight variation, of most of the lower counties of the State, while in the more northern regions many of the fruits named growN
in perfection, and in some localities the apple succeeds well. Our Rapides reporter writes:‘I have a second crop of apples this year. They are hard, small, and poor, thotugh they are eaten.’ “In Washington parish a small orchard chiefly peaches, in one season yielded a profit of $4000, the fruit being early and within close proximity to New Orleans markets. Our East Feliciana correspondent writes:‘This is one of the finest fruit regions in the world. Apples, peaches, pears, quinces, plumns, figs, grapes, berries, etc., do 703

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. well, and wild blackberries grow in great abundance, from which a superior wine is made. WVe have, as yet, but few orchards.

One nlan this season sold $600 worth of pears from fourteen trees.’ Though but little attention has heretofore been given to fruit culture, the capabilities of the State are so evident, and the inducements so strong, in a pecuniary point of view, that the production must, at an early day, become a leading interest of Louisiana.” The civil war laid prostrate the agricultural interests of the State. The plantations ill many cases were utterly ruined. The levees of the rivers were cut or allowed to give way, and many of the finest cotton and sugar fields were thus converted into worthless swamps. It will require many years to repair these losses. The returns of the State for 1869 are incomplete. As fair as known they are: Bushels of Indian corn,. Barrels of rice….. II’hlds of sugar…….

Gallons of molasses (estimated) Bales of cotton,…… Bushels of sweet potatoes (estim Number of horses,….. asses and mules, milch cows,0 ‘
sheep, ” swine, al” young cattle,.. Value of domestic animals, MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. Little attention is paid to manufactures. In 1860 the capital invested in themn amounted to $7,151,172. With respect to its commercial advantages the State is unequalled by any portion of the world. The Mississippi and its tributaries bri’ng to it the products of nearly one half the Union. New Orleans is the principal port, and is actively engaged in trade with all parts of the world. In 1860 the exports of Louisiana amounted to $108,417,798, and the imports to $22,992,773. In spite of the losses of the war, thev were as follows in 1870: exports, $107,657,042; imports, $14,993,754. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. Within the limits of the State the great abundance of water transportation does away with the necessity for many railways. In 1868 704 . 16,850,000 57,956

84,256 . 3,000,000 495,000 . 2,000,000 98,320 97.450 148,320 450,300

940,110 520,310 . $29,456,940 …. …… …..

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LOUISIANA. there were 335 miles of completed railway in the State, constructed at a cost of‘13,628,000. A main line extends north through Mississippi to the States of the East and West, and roads are in construction from a point opposite to Tickesburg, Miss., to Shreveport and northeastern Texas, and from Algiers along the Gulf coast to Galveston, Texas. EDUCATION. In 1860 there were in Louisiana 15 colleges, with 1530
students; 152 academies and other schools, with 11,274 ptipils; and 713
public schools, with 31,813 pupils. With the exception of the schools of New Orleans, nearly all the educational institutions of the State were destroyed or discontinued by the war. Since the return of peace, Centenary College, at Jackson, and several academies and private schools have been reopened with success. The new Constitution establishes a system of public education, and requires that at least one free public schlool shall he opened in each parish in the State. A permanent school fund is established, and the Legislature is required to levy taxes for the support of the schools. Appropriations by the State for the support, assistance, or encouragement of any private school or private institution of learning, whatsoever, are forbidden. 45 ,05

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THlE GREAT REPUBLIC. A University, with collegiate, law, and medical departments, is established at N7ew Orleans, and supported in part by the State. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State has but a few charitable institutions of its own, depending mainly on similar establishments in the city of New Orleans, to the support of which it contributes. The Penitentiary is located at Baton Rouge, the old capital. It was destroyed during the war, but has since been restored. There were 342 males and 12
females confined there in 1870. The institutionI is supported to a great extent by the labor of the convicts, who are engaged in the manufacture of cotton and woollen goods. Two hundred looms, with the necessary machinery, are in operation. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860 there were 572 churches in Louisiana, and the value of church property was $3,160,360. The greater part of this amount was owned in New Orleans. In the rest of the State the loss was heavy during the war. FINANCES. The finances of Louisiana are in a very unfortunate condition. The amount of the public debt is disputed, but the State Auditor estimates it at $40,021,734, inclusive of an obligation to issue about $15,000,000 worth of bonds. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending November 30, 1870, were $6,537,959; while the total expenlditures for the same period amounted to $7,050,636.

GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of Louisiana was adopted’ by the people April 23d, 1868. Every male person, 21 years old, born in the United States, or naturalized, without respect to race, color, or previous condition, who has resided in the State one year, and in tlie parish ten days, is entitled to vote at the elections. Crimninals, andl certain persons concerned in the Rebellion, are excluded from the franchise. The Government is vested in a Governor, Lieutenaiit-Governor, Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, AttorneyGeneral, and a General Assemnbly, consisting of a Senate (36 members, elected for four 706

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LOUISIANA. years, onehalf retiring biennially) and a House of Representatives (101 members, elected for two years), all chosen by the people. The Governor and other State officers are elected for four years.

The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, D)istrict Court, Parish Coulrts, and in Justices of the Peace. The Suprenme Court consists of a Chief Justice and( four Associate Justices, appointed by the Governor, by and with the advice and consent of the Senate, foi a period of eight years. Except in specified cases, this court has al)pellate jurisd(liction only. The judges of the other courts are chosen by the popular vote. The seat of Government is located at New Orleans. Previous to the war Baton Rouge was the capital. The State is divided into 48 parishes. HISTORY. In 1691 La Salle discovered the mouth of the Mississippi River, and took possession of the country in the name of the King of France. In 1699

Iberville attempted to form a settlement along the lower Mississippi, but his attempt ended in the establishment of the Colony of Biloxi, in the present State of Mississippi. In 1712 Louis XIV., of France, named the region in honor of himself, and granted it to MI. Crozat, a wealthy capitalist, who, in 1717, surrendered his charter to the Government, complaining that he had not l)eeIn properly supported by the authorities, and that he had suffered such losses in attemipting to settle the province as almost to ruin him. In 1717 the famous John Law, living in Paris, obtained a charter for a bank, and for a Mississippi company, to whom the king granted the province. A remarkable financial scheme was conceived by Law in connection with these grants, and for a while carried out so successfully that the stock of the bank went up to six hundred times its par value. It finally exploded, however, and ruined every one concerned in it, having accomplished nothing but the settlement of NiTew Orleans, in 1717. In 1732 Law’s company surrendered their charter to the king, who declared the commerce of Louisiana free to all nations. In 1760 war was begun between Great Britain and France, and Canada was conquered by the former power. Large numbers of Canadians now emigrated to Louisiana, and settled in the country west of the Alississippi, founding the settlements of Attakapas, Opelousas, and Avoyelles. In 1762 France ceded her possessions in 707

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Louisiana west of the Mississippi to Spain, and the country east of that river to Eingland. The Spanish authorities soon took possession of NewN Orleans, and inaugurated a series of crtlel and op)pressive measuIres, which filled the Frenchl settlers with dismay. They held the province during the American Revolution, and towards the close of the war the Spanish Governor of New Orleans captured the Britishl (‘alrison at Baton Roug,e. The treaty of 1783 opened the navigation )f the Mississippi River to all nations, but the Spaniards at New )i’leans effectually neutralized this concession by seizing all merchand(lize b)roulght to that city in any but Spanish ships. This gave rise to a long and vexatious dispute betweeni the United( States and Spain, which was terminated only by the acquisition of Louisiana by the former power. The nmanner in whlich this territory passed into our hands, is thus related by Bonner, in his ” Ihistory of Louisiana:” “In 1763: Louisiana was ceded to Sp)ain, and by a secret article in the treaty of St. Ildefonso, concluded in 1800, that power ceded it hack to France. Napoleon, however, wished to keep this cession secret until he should h-ave-as he hoped to do-reduce(d St. Domingo to submission. Failing in this, he was rendered indifiberent to his new acquisition. In January, 1803, he sent out Laussat as prefect of the colony, which was the first intimiation that the inhabitants had of the transfer, which gave them great joy. “On being informed of this retrocession, President Jefferson had dispatched instructions to Robert Livingston, the Ameri (an minister at Paris, to represent to the First Consul that the occupl)ation of New Orleans by France would endanger the friendly relations between the two nations, and, perhaps, even oblige the United States to mnake cornmnon cause with England; as the possession of this city by the former, )v giving her the commanad of the Mississippi, the only outlet to the produce of the Western States, and also of the Gulf of Mexico, so im1)ortant to Amterican commerce, would render it almost certain that the conflicting interests of the two nations would lead to an open rup)tiire. Mr. ILivingston was therefore instructed not onlyl to insist upon the free navigation of the Mississippi, but to negotiate for the ac(quisition of New Orleans itself, and the surrounding territory; and Mr. MAonroe was appointed with full powers to assist him in the negotiation. “Bonaparte, who always acted promptly, soon came to the conclusion that what he could( not defend, he had better dispose of on the best terms; but before deciding, he summonied two of his ministers in council, on the 10th of April, 1803, and thlls addressed them: 708

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LOUISIANA. “‘I am fully sensible of the value of Louisiana, and it was my wish to repair the error of the French diplomatists who abandoned it in 1763.: I have scarcely recovered it before I run the risk of losing it; but if I amn obliged to give it up, it shall hereafter cost more to those vhlo force me to part with it, than to those to whom I yield it. The Eniglishi have despoiled France of all her northern possessions in America, and nowv they covet those of the south. I am det(rmined that they shall not have the Alississippi. Although Louisiana is but a trifle complared to their vast possessions in other parts of the globe, yet, ju(lrging fiom the vexation they have manifested on seeing it return to the pow\er of France, I am certain that their first object will be to gain possession of it. They will probably commence the war in that quarter.

They have twenty vessels in the Gulf of Mexico, and our affairs in St.

DIomIingo are daily getting worse, since the death of Le Clerc. The conquest of Louisiana might be easily made, and I have not a moment to lose in putting it out of their reach. I am not sure but that they have already begun an attack upon it. Such a measure would be in accordance with their habits; and in their place I should not wait. I am inclined(l, in order to deprive them of all prospect of ever possessing it, to cede it to the United States. Indeed, I can hardly say that I cede it, for I do not yet possess it; and if I wait but a short time, my enemies may leave me nothing but an empty title to grant to the Republic I wish to conciliate. They only ask for one city of Louisiana, btt I consider tl-he whole colony as lost; and I believe that, in the hands of this rising power, it will be more usefill to the political, and even the commercial interests of France, than if I should attempt to retain it. Let me have both your opinions on the stub)ject.’ “One of the ministers, Barbe MIarbois, fully approved of the cession, bult the other opposed it. They debated the matter for a long time, and Bonaparte concluded the conference without making his determination known. The next day, however, he sent for Marbois, and said to him: ”’ TIje season for deliberation is over; I have determined to renounce Loutisiana. I shlall give up not only New Orleans, but the wAhole colony, without reservation. That I do not undervalue Louisiana I have sufficiently proved, as the object of my first treaty with Spain was to recover it. But, though I regret parting with it, I am convinced it waould be folly to persist in trying( to keep it. I commission you, therefore, to negotiate this affair with the envoys of the 709

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. United States. Do not wait the arrival of Mr. Monroe, but go this very day and confer with Mr. Livingston. Remember, however, that I need ample funds for carrying on the war, and I do not wish to commence it by levying new taxes. For the last century France and Spain have incurred great expense in the improvement of Louisiana, foir vlwhich her trade has never indemnified them. Large sums have been advanced to different companies, which have never returned to the treasury. It is fair that I should require repayment for these. WATere I to regulate nmy demands by the importance of this territory to the United States, they would be unbounded; but, being obliged to part with it, I shall be moderate iln my terms. Still, remember, I lull t l1ave 50,000,000 francs, and I will not consent to take less. I wouldl rather imake some desperate effort to preserve this fine country.’ The negotiations commenced that very day. Mr. Monroe arrived at Paris on the 12thl of April, and the two representatives of the United States, after holding a private conference, announced that they were ready to treat for the cession of the entire territory, which at first AIr. Livingston had hesitated to do, believing the proposal of the First Consul to be only a device to gain time. On the 30th of April, 1803, the treaty was signed. The United States were to pay $15,000,000 for their new acquisition, and be indemnlified for some illegal captures; whlile it was agreed that the vessels and merchandise of France and Spain should be admitted into all tihe ports of Louisiana, free of duty, for 12 years. “Bonaparte stipulated in favor of Louisiana that it should, as soon as possible, be incorporated into the Union, and that its inhabitants should enjoy the same rights, privileges, and immunities as other citizens of thle United States; and the third article of the treaty, securing to them these benefits, was drawn up by the First Consul himself, Nlwho presented it to the plenipotentiaries with these words: ”’ Alake it known to the people of Louisiana that we regret to part withl them; that we have stipulated for all the advantages they could desire; and that France, in giving them up, has insured to them the greatest of all. They could never have prospered under any European government as they will when they become independent. But, while they enjoy the privileges of liberty, let them ever remember that they are French, and preserve for their miother-country that affection whlich a common origin inspires.’ “The completion of this important transaction gave equal satisfaction to both parties.‘I consider,’ said Livingston,’ that from tlhis 71 0

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LOUISIANA. day the United States takes rank with the first powers of Europe, and now she is entirely escaped from the power of England; and Bonaparte expressed a similar sentiment in these words:‘By this cession of territory I have secured the power of the United States, and given to England a maritime rival, who, at some future time, will humble her pride.’ These words appeared prophetic when the troops of Britain, a few years after, met so signal an overthrow on the plains of Louisiana. ” The boundaries of the colony had never been clearly defined, and one of Bonaparte’s ministers drew his attention to his obscurity.‘No matter,’

said he,‘if there was no uncertainty, it would, perhaps, be good policy to leave some;’ and, in fact, the Americans, interpreting to their own advantage this uncertainty, some few years after seized upon the extensive territory of Baton Rouge, which was in dispute between them and the Spaniards. “On the 30tlh of November, 1803, Laussat took possession of the country, when Casa Calvo and Salcedo, the Spanish commissioners, presented to him the keys of the city, over which the tri-colored flag floated but for a short time. The colony had been under the rule of Spain for a little more than 34 years. “On the 20th of December, in the same year, General Wilkinson and Governor Claiborne, who were jointly commissioned to take possession of the country for the United States, made their entry into New Orleans at the head of the American troops. Laussat gave up his command, and the star-spangled banner supplanted the tri-colored flag of France.”

In 1804, Louisiana was erected into a Territory by Congress. In 1810, the Spanish post at Baton Rouge was seized by the United States forces under General Wilkinson, and the territory connected with it added to Louisiana, which in 1812, was admitted into the Union as a State. During the second war with England, the Britishl made several attempts to get possession of the mouths of the Mississippi, but were finally and decisively defeated on the plains of Chalmette, below New Orleans, on the 8th of January, 1815, by an American force under General Andrew Jackson. The territory purchased from France by the Louisiana treaty is now occupied by the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Minnesota, Kansas, Nebraska, and Oregon, and the Territories of Dacota, Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, and Washington. The reader will thus see the importance of the trlansaction. 711

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TiE GREAT REPUBLIC. On the 26thl of January, 1861, the State withdrew from the Union and joined the Soulthern Confederacy. One of the first objects of the Federal Goverlmlenit was to secure the city of New Orleans, which was captured early in 1862 by the fleet of Admiral Farragut. From this time the lower part of the State was more or less overrun by the forces of the North and South. The country along the rivers suffered terribly. In 1863, the Confederate stronghold at Port Hudson, on the Mississippi River, a short distance above Baton Rouge, was besieged by the forces of General Banks. The faill of Vicksburg, in July, 1863, compelled the surrender of this place. Subsequently the northwest part of the State-the Red River countryv-was invaded by a powerfiul force under General Banks. He was defeated by the Confederates in two severe battles and forced to retreat.

While the siege of VicksI)urg was in progress, a severe battle was fought at Baton Rouge, which town was almost destroyed during the war. Several towns along the Mississippi were burned, and the lower parishes generally desolated. Attempts were made, in 1864, to organize a “restored government” for the State, and Representatives were elected to Congress.

The whole system was repudiated by Congress subsequently. In 1865, a Provisional Government was recognized by the President, and overthrown by Congress, which body, in 1867, placed the State under military rule as a part of the Fifth Military District. A Convention met in New Orleans, in November, 1867, and adopted a State Constitution, which was ratified by the people on the 23d of April, 1868. The State was readmitted into the Union on the 25th of June, 1868. CITIES AND TOWNS. The most important cities and towns in the State are Donaldsonville, Algiers, Baton Rouge, Jefferson, Carrolton, Plaquemine, Thibodeaux, Alexandria, Shreveport, Homer, and Opelousas. NEW ORLEANS, The capital and commercial and social metropolis of the State, is also the ninth city of the United States with respect to population, and the largest and most important city in the South. It is situated on the left bank of the Mississippi River, tlabotit 100 miles from the mouth of that stream. Latitude 29~ 58’ N.; longitude 90~ 7/ W. It is 1663 miles southwest of Newv York, 2000 miles south-by-east of the 712

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LOUISIANA. Falls of St. Anthony, the head of navigation onil the Mississippi, 1628 miles south-by-west of Chicago, and 1438 miles southwest of Washington. “New Orleans is built around a bend in the river, from which circuinstance it has been denominated the’Crescent City.’ The site inclines gently from the margin of the Mississippi towards the marshy ground in the rear, and is from 2 to 5 feet below the level of the river at the usual spring freshets. To prevent inundations, an embankmnent or levee, about 1 5 feet high in some places, and 6 feet in others, has been raised, extending 120 miles above the city, and to Port Plaquemine, 43
miles below it. This forms a delightful promenade. In consequence of the change of the course of the river opposite New Orleans, large quantities of alluvion, swept from the north and held in suspension by the current, are here deposited. New formations from this cause, in front of that portion of the quay most used for the purposes of commerce, have been so rapid that it has been necessary within a few years to build piled wharves jutting out from 50 to 100 feet into the Mississippi. The levee here has also been gradually widened, so that an additional tier of warehouses has been erected between the city and the river. The old city proper, originally laid out by the French, is in the form of a parallelogram, 1320
yards long and 700 yards wide. Above this are what were formerly the faubourgs of St. Mary, Annunciation, and La Course; below, Marigny, Dunois, and Declouet; and in the rear, Tr6me’ and St. John’s. Lafayette, until a few years ago under a separate government, is immediately above the city.” The city is regularly laid out. The streets are narrow in the older portion, and wide in the new, and are well paved. Since the civil war, the city has been kept unusually clean. The principal business thoroughfare, Canal street, is 190 feet wide, with a turfed promenade, 25
feet wide, extending along the middle of the entire street. Esplanade, Rampart, and Basin streets have similar grass-plots. ThQ city is well built, the buildings being mostly of brick. Owing to the marshy nature of the ground-water being found two feet below the surfacethe houses have no cellars. A basement, about 6 feet in height, takes the place of the cellar. In the business portions, the buildings are 5 and 6 stories in height, but in the private sections they are lower. The dwellings in the suburbs, especially in Lafayette, are surrounded by orange, lemon, magnolia and other trees which fill the air with a delicious perflume.

Many of the better class dwellings are palatial in their external and internal appointments, and there is, perhaps, no 713

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. city in the country where the higher classes are more luxurious in their tastes and style of living. The general aspect of the city is bright, cheerful and inviting. It is so thoroughly French in its gen eral characteristics, that this could hardly be otherwise. “In the old city, many of the dwellings are constructed with a carriage-way and gate leading directly from the street to an interior courtyard enclosed by the main building. Most of the signs over the shlops are inscribed in French, or both French and English. This portion of the city, with the old Faubourg Treme in its rear, constitutes the 2d district, formerly the 1st municipality. Next above, extending from Canal street to Felicity road, lies the 1st district, formerly the Faubourg St. Mary, and subsequently the 2d municipality; while still beyond is the 4th district, prior to 1852
the city of Lafayette. In these two districts, the buildings are more modern, and most of the streets are wider, though very irregular in their directions. In the 4th district, many of the dwellings are spacious and of great elegance, with ample grounds for shrubbery, etc. Below the old city, again, lies the 3d district, formerly the Faubourg Marigny, and afterwards the 3d municipality, which is the residence of a large portion of the Creole and foreign population. The nomenclature of the streets is remarkable. French, Spanish, and Anglo-American ideas and personages are all represented. The 9 Muses, with other heathen divinities, give name to one series, while in other quarters are found St. Charles, St. Mary, St.

Louis, and the like, together with’Love,”Piety,”Virtue,”Religious,’

etc. The Pontchartrain railway runs through the Elysian Fields, a street, and by no means the most attractive one of the city.

‘Greatmen,”Goodchildren,”Frenchmen,” Crops,’ etc., are specimens of other odd and apparently whimsical names. The same street repeatedly changes, not only its direction, but its designation. Thus Royal, one of the original streets of the old city, becomes St. Charles on entering the 1st district, and still higher takes the pagan and poetical name of Nayades; while its continuation in the opposite direction, through the 3d district, commemorates the Marquis Casa Calvo, the last of the Spanish Governors. In like mnanner, Bourbon becomes Carondelet and then Apollo in one direction, and declines into Bagatelle in the other.” The city contains a number of handsome public squares. The principal of these is thle New City Park, in the northeastern portion, near Metarie road and Monroe avenue. It contains about 150 acres, and is handsomely laid out.

Jackson Square, formerly the Place 714

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LOUISIANA. VIEW IN ST. CHARLES STREET, NEW ORLEANS. d’Armes, covers the centre of the river front of the old Town Plot, now the 1st district. It is the favorite place of resort. It is beantifully laid out in shell walks, and is ornamented with the rarest plants and flowers of the South, statuary, etc. In the centre is an equestrian statue of General Jackson.

The Cathedral of St. Louis and the Court buildings front the square.

Lafayette Square is in the 2d district, and is bounded by St. Charles and Camp streets. The City Hall and several handsome buildings face it. Tivoli Circle, Annunciation and Washington Squares, and Circus Place, are the others. The last namled is better known as Congo Square, and is famous as the favorite play-ground of the negroes. The Public Buildings of New Orleans are numerous and handsome. The U. S. Custom House, on Canal street, near the levee, is still incomplete, but when finished will be, next to the Capitol at Washing 715

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. ton, the largest building in the United States. It is built of granite from Quincy, Mass. Its main front, on Canal street, is 334 feet long. Its depth is 297 feet. The Post Office and other Government offices are located in the building. The Jint is a large edifice of brick, stuccoed in imitation of brown stone, and was used by the Federal Government for the coining of money until the breaking out of the civil war. The City Hall is a handsome building of white marble, at the intersection of St. Charles and Lafayette streets. It is in the Grecian Ionic style of architecture, and is 208 feet by 90. It contains the offices of the City Government. In the absence of a State Capitol, it is also used by the Governor of Louisiana and the Secretary of State. Lyceum Hall is a handsome building on St. Charles street, containing a lecture hall and the City and State Libraries. Odd Fellows’ Hall is a showy edifice of brick stuccoed in imitation of marble. Jiasonie Hall and the Merchants’ Exchange are also imposing structures. Two handsome buildings in the Doric and Tuscan orders, used by the city courts, are located on Jackson Square, one on each side of the Cathedral. They were constructed towards the close of the last century, through the liberality of the founder of the Cathedral, Don Andre Alinonaster. The Benevolent and Charitable institutions are numerous, and are famous for their efficiency.

Perhaps no city in the Union has a greater number of such institutions, in proportion to its population. They are liberally supported by the city and the citizens. The most important are the U. S. Marine HIosp)ital, the Charity Hospital, with beds for 450 patients, the female Orphan Asylum, with accommodations for 160 children; the Poydras _Female Orphan Asylum; the Male Orphan Asylum; the Asylum of St. Elizabeth, under the charge of the Sisters of Mercy; and the Mlaison de Sante. The Penal and Reformatory establishments consist of a Parish Jail and a Police Jail, and a Workhouse in each municipality. The jails are 3 stories high, and are built of brick stuccoed in imitation of granite. The workhouses of the 2d and 3d municipalities are model institutions, and are devoted to the reformation of criminals, especially of juvenile offenders. The city contains between 55 and 60 church edifices. About onehalf of these are Rotman Catholic. The principal church edifice is the Cathedral of St. Louis, on Jackson Square, begun in 1792 and completed in 1794, by Don Andre Almtonaster, perpetual regidor, and Alvarez Real, of the province. It is plain and simple, but venerable and imposing in appearance. 716

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LOUISIANA. Tile schools of New Orleans consist of 4 high schools, and 38
primary and grammar schools, which are public and designed for both sexes.

In addition to these are 18 schools for colored children. The University of Louisiana was organized in 1849, and consists at present of a law and medical school, both of which are in a flourishing condition. The city contains but few public libraries, and these are unimportant. The City Library contains about 20,000 volumes. The best libraries in New Orleans are those of private individuals, and such collections are said to be numerous. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from the Mississippi. The water is pumped by steam into an elevated reservoir, and thence distributed through the city in the ordinary way. Street railways and omnibuses connect the principal points. There is a police and fire-alarmn telegraph in operation in the city, which has also an efficient police force, and a steam fire department. The government consists of a Mayor and Commnon Council. The newspapers of the city are among the most influential and the ablest in the country. More than 15
journals, daily and weekly, are published here, several in the French language. The cemeteries of New Orleans are among its most peculiar features. There are 10 or 12 of these. Each one is enclosed with a brick wall, of arched cavities, or ” ovens,” as the natives call them, made just large enough to admit a single coffin, and built tier upon tier, to a height of about 12 feet, with a thickness of 10. The whole enclosure is divided into plots, with gravel paths intersecting each other at right angles, and is densely covered with tombs built wholly above ground, and from one to three stories hi,gh. Many of these tombs are very handsome.

Burial beneath the surface is impracticable, and is only resorted to by persons too poor to buy a tomb for their friends. Strangers, the friendless, and the very poor are taken to tlie Potters’ Field, and literally laid in the water, which is found 2 feet below the surface. The marshy soil often casts these coffins up again, leaving the bodies to rot under the fierce sun. The Jarkets are characteristic and numerous. “The principal are the vegetable and meat (French) markets on the levee near Jackson Square and the French Cathedral. To be seen to the greatest advantage, they should be visited on Sunday morning, between the hours of 8 and 9 o’clock. At break of day the gathering commences-all colors, nations, and tongues, comnmingled in one heterogeneous mass. 717

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. JACKSON SQUARE, NEW ORLEANS. The music,.far from being unpleasant, howvever, is musical to the stranger’s ear. A visit thither is thus described by a well-known writer:‘One morning we rose early to visit the market of the 1st municipality, and found the air on the bank of the Mississippi filled with mist as dense as a London fog, but of a pure white instead of yellow color. Through this atmosphere the innumerable masts of the ships alongside the wharf were dimly seen. Among other fruits in the market we observed abundance of bananas, and good pine-apples, for twentyfive cents each, from the West Indies. There were stalls where hot coffee was selling, in white china cups, reminding us of Paris. Among other articles exposed for sale were brooms made of palmetto-leaves, and wagon-loads of the dried, Spanish moss, or Tillandsia. The quantity of this plant hanging from the trees in the swamps of Louisiana, and everywhere on the Delta of the Mississippi, might suffice to stuff all the mattresses in the world. The Indians formerly used it for another purpose-to give porosity or lightness to their building materials. When passing through the stalls, we were surrounded by a population of negroes, mulattoes, and quadroons, some talking French, others a patois of Spanish and French, and others a mixture of French and English, or English translated front French, and with the French accent. They seemed very merry, 718

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LOUISIANA. especially those who were jet black. Some of the Creoles also, both of French and Spanish extraction, like many natives of the South of Europe, were very dark.’” The hotels of New Orleans are among the largest in the country, and are well kept. The principal are the St. Charles, the St. Louis, the St. James, and the City Hotel. There are 3 Theatres, and 2

Opera Houses in the city. They are well supported-especially the Opera Houses and the Orleans Theatre, at the last of which the performances are in the French language. New Orleans is the commercial metropolis of the South, and the most important cotton market in the Union. It is admirably situated for commerce. It lies within 100 miles of the mouth of the Mississippi, and 2000 miles firom the Falls of St. Anthony. All the immense trade of the Mississippi and its tributaries can be brought to the city without reshipment. Thus New Orleans is the natural gateway, through which pours the commerce of the entire Mississippi Valley. The river in front of the city is deep enough for the largest vessels, but the bar at the mouth of the river will not admit vessels drawing over 18 feet of water. The Levee, or steamboat landing, is one of the most interesting places in the city, and is thoroughly indicative of its immense trade. It extends along the river shore for about 4 miles, and has an average breadth of 100 feet. Here may be seen every description of craft navigating the Mississippi and the adjacent waters. At one portion are hundreds of flat boats drawn up on the land, some filled with hay, corn, potatoes, butter, cheese, apples, and cider, and some with horses, mules, cattle, hogs, sheep, etc. The levee here is piled up with flour, pork, and all sorts of agricultural produce in the greatest profusion. Beyond this is the steamboat landing, where as many as 1200 steamers may be seen in the busy season, discharging and receiving freight. The levee at this point is covered with immense piles of cotton in bales, and steamers are constantly arriving from, and departing for all parts of the Mississippi Valley. Above and below the steamer landing are dense lines of steamships and sailing vessels, in rows two anid three deep, bringing the products of every country, and carrying away the products of the great valley. The whole of the commerce of the city, however, is not carried on upon the levee. The railways bring enormous quantities of produce into New Orleans, and the trade which comes by way of Lake Pontchartrain is important. The lake is connected with New Orleans by means of a railway and a canal. This canal terminates in a spacious 719

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. basin near the centre of the city. This basin is always filled with sloops, schooners, and other vessels engaged in the trade with the ports on the Gulf coast to the eastward. The river trade of New Orleans is immense, and its foreign and coasting trades are in proportion. The war for the time destroyed both, but they are now reviving. In 1860, the year before the civil war, there were received at New Orleans 2,255,458 bales of cotton, and in the same year 2,214,315
bales were exported. In the same year $185,211,254 worth of Southern and Western produce were received. The separate products were valued as follows: cotton, $109,389,228; sugar, $18,190,880; molasses, $6,250,335; tobacco, $8,717,485; other products, $42,663,326. In the same year the exports of the city were valued at $108,293,567, and the imports at $22,920,849. During the year ending June 30, 1860, the entrances at the port of New Orleans amounted to 2052 vessels, with a tonnage of 1,212,029; and the clearances to 2235 vessels, with a tonnage of 1,248,526. During the year ending August 31, 1860, the arrivals of steamboats were 3566, and of fiatboats 831. These figures show the trade of the city in its palmiest days. During the year ending September 1, 1870, there were received at ANew Orleans 1,208,000 bales of cotton, valued at $120,000,000; 57,956
bbls. of rice; produce from the interior to the amount of $200,000,000; and manufactured articles from the Northern States to the amount of $50,000,000. During the fiscal year ending June 30, 1870, the foreign exports of New Orleans amounted to $107,657,042, and the imports to $14,993,754. The entire value of the commerce of the city for the same year was more than $500,000,000. The exports coastwise amounted to nearly $60,000,000. In the same year 4406 vessels were entered and cleared at the Custom House, with an aggregate tonnage of 3,126,319 tons. The arrivals of steamboats were 3650, with an aggregate tonnage of 3,000,000 tols. In the same year 2 large cotton mills were in operation in the city, also a number of factories engaged in making oil from cotton seed. One of the greatest drawbacks to the prosperity of New Orleans is the unhealthiness of the city and the region in which it is situated. During the first 70 or 80 years after its settlement it was regarded as eminently healthful.

Since its transfer to the American Government it has been repeatedly ravaged by yellow fever. Apart from this disease, the city is regarded as thloroughly healthful, and the natives and acclimated residents compare favorably with those of any 720

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LOUISIANA. LAFAYETTE SQLUARE, NEW ORLEANS. other large city in respect of health and longevity. According to some writers, yellow fever made its first appearance with the arrival of the Spaniards in 1769; according to others, it did not appear until 1796. Previous to this it had appeared in Europe and in the more northern cities of North Amnerica. In 1819,‘22,‘29,‘33,‘35,‘37,‘39,‘41,‘43, ‘47,‘53, and‘58, it raged with fearfill violence. In 1853, between May 26th and October 22d, 8500 persons are said to have died of the fever. The greatest mortality was on the 22d of August, when 283 persons died. During the summer season large numbers of persons leave the city, and trade is very dull. In 1870 the population of New Orleans was 191,322, and is made up of native Americans, persons of foreign descent called Creoles, foreigners, and negroes and persons of African descent. “Those who would form a just estimate of the social character and appearance of the Creole population of the city, should visit the opera in the height of the season. The Frenchl Creole ladies, manary of them descended from Norman ancestors, and of pure, unmixed blood, are very handsome. They are usually attired in Parisian fashion, not over-dressed, nor so thinly clad as are the generality of Americaa women-their luxuriant hlair, tastefully arranged, fastened eithl ornamental pins, and adorned with a colored ribbon or a single flower. The word’creole’ is used in Louisiana to express a nativeborn 46 721

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. American, whether black or white, descended from old-world parents, for they would not call the aboriginal Indians Creoles.

It never means persons of mixed breed; and the French or Spanish Creoles in Newv Orleans would shrink as much as a New Englander from in termarriage with one tainted, in the slightest degree, with African blood.

The frequent alliances of the Creoles, or Louisianians, of French extraction, with lawyers and merchants from the Northern States, help to cement the ties which are every day binding more firmly together the distant parts of the Union. Both races may be improved by such connection, for the manners of the Creole ladies are, for the most part, more refined; and many a Louisianian might justly have felt indignant if he could have overheard a conceited young bachelor from the North telling me’how much they were preferred by the fair sex to the hard-drinking, gambling, horse-racing, cock-fighting, and tobacco-chewing Southerners.’ If the Creoles have less depth of character, and are less striving and ambitious than the New Englanders, it must be no slight source of happiness to the former to be so content with present advantages. They seem to feel, far more than the Anglo-Saxons, that if riches be worth the winning they are also worth enjoying. The quadroons, or the offspring of the whites and mulattoes, sit in an upper tier of boxes appropriated to them. When they are rich, they hold a peculiar and very equivocal position in society. As children they have often been sent to Paris for their education, and, being as capable of improvement as any whites, return with refined manners, and not unfrequently with more cultivated minds than the majority of those fronm whose society they are shut out.‘By the tyranny of caste they are driven, therefore, to f’orm among themselves a select and exclusive set. Among other stories illustrating their social relation to the whites, we are told that a young man of the dominant race fell in love with a beautiful quadrooni girl, who was so light-colored as to be scarcely’distinguishable from one of pure breed. He found that, in order to render the mnarriage legal, he was required to swear that he himself had negro blood in his veins; and, that he might conscientiously take the oath, he let some of the blood of his betrothed into his veins with a lancet. The romance of this doubtful tale was greatly diminished, although I fear that my inclination to believe in its truth was equally enhanced, when the additional circumstance was related, that the young lady was rich.’ The foregoing sketch of society and social life in New Orleans, I need hardly remind my reader, was penned 722

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LOUISIANA. long before the late rebellion had so changed the aspect of every thing throughout the South. The visitor will, however, be surprised as well as delighted at the extent to which the manners and customs of the’old regime’ are still perpetuated among the descendants of the early settlers in the Crescent City.” Many of the European customs are still observed in New Orleans. “The holiday season, which includes Christmas and New Year’s Day,” says the writer quoted above, “is the best time to visit the city. No place on the broad continent presents such numerous and varied attractions at thlis festive season, and stolid, indeed, must be the stranger who is not impressed with his experiences. The distinguished author from whom we have so largely quoted, thus writes of the Carnival and the ceremonies of Mardi Gras:‘It was quite a novel and refreshing sight to see a whole population giving up their minds for a short season to amusement. There was a grand procession parading the streets, almost every one dressed in the most grotesque attire, troops of them on horseback, some in open carriages, with bands of mnusic, and in a variety of costumes-some as Indians, with feathers on their heads, and one, a jolly fat man, as Mardi Gras himself. All wore masks, and here and there in the crowd, or stationed in a balcony above, we saw persons armed with bags of flour, which they showered down copiously on any one who seemed particularly proud of his attire. The strangeness of the scene was not a little heightened by the blending of negroes, quadroons, and mulattocs in the crowd; and we were amused by observing the ludicrous surprise, mixed with contempt, of several unmasked, stiff, grave Anglo-Americans from tihe North, who were witnessing for the first time what seemed to them so much mummery and tomfoolery. One wagoner, coming out of a cross street in his working dress, drove his team of horses and vehicle, heavily laden with cotton-bales, right through the procession, causing a long interruption.

The crowd seemed determined to aliow nothing to disturb their good humor; but although many of the wealthy Protestant citizens take part in the ceremony, this rude intrusion struck me as a kind of foreshadowing of coming events, emblematic of the violent shock whiich the invasion of the Anglo-Americans is about to give to) the old rejyi))e of Louisiana. A gentleman told me that, being last year in PRome, he had not seen so many masks at the Carnival there; and, in spite of the increase of Protestants, he thought there had been quite as much “flour and fun” this year as usual. The proportion, however, of strict Romanists is not so great as formerly, and to-mor 723

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. row, they say, when Lent begins, there will be an end of the trade in mnaskls; yet the butclhers will sell nearly as much meat as ever. During, the Carnival the greater part of the French population keep open houses, especially in the country.’” New Orleans was first settled in 1718, by Bienville, who had become satisfied of the propriety of removing the seat of government of the Frenchl province of Louisiana from Mobile to the more productive region of the lower Mississippi. In 1722, it contained about 100 log cablins and a population of 200 persons.

In 1723, the seat of Govern nc’.t was permanently removed from Mobile to New Orleans. In ] 727i, the construction of the levee was begun. It was more than a mile in length, and was designed to protect the city from the overflows of the river. Smaller levees were constructed for 1,5 miles a)ove, and 15 miiles below the city. In the same year, a company of Jesuit Fathers, and one of Ursuline nuns arrived. The Jesuits remainced until 1763, whlen they were expelled. The city grew gradually. In 1745, the population was estimated at 800 persons, exclusive of women and clhildren, 200 soldiers, and 300 negroes. In 1763, the city of New Orleans passed into the hands of Spain, with the rest of LouLisiana. The inhabitants, however, bitterly opposed the transfer, and the Spaniards did not takle actual possession of the city until 1769, at which time the entire population numbered 3190. Many of the best inhabitants removed to the West Indies, rather than live under Spanish rule. Under the later Spanish Governors, however, matters took a (different turn, andl the city grew rapidly. In 1785, it contained 4980 inhabitants. In March, 1788, a fire destroyed 900 houses. Prov-isionIs ran low, and a famine was ilnminent.

Between 1792 and 1797, the streets were lighted, fire companies were organized, and the Carondelet Canal was opened. In 1800, Spain receded the province of Louisiana to France; and in 1803, Louisiana was purchased by the United States, and New Orleans became an American city. The population of the city at this time was 8000. During the second war with England, the English were very anxious to capture New Orleans, which was a prize of great value as controlling the navi,‘tti;)n of the Mississippi.

They made their grand attempt on the Stir of January, 1815, on the plain of Chalmette, near the city, and were defeated with heavy loss by a small American force under General Andrew Jackson. In 1836, the city was divided, by an Act of the Legislature, into three municipalities, each with a separate goverument; but, in 1852, these municipalities were consolidated, and ‘i 24

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LOUISIANA. the limits of the corporation were extended to include the town of Lafayette, lying in the adjacent parish of the same name. At the beginning of the civil war, the city and the forts commanding the lower Mississippi were lheld by the Confedlerates. On the 25thi of April, 1862, Admiral (then Comnmodore) Farragut passed the forts with his fleet, defeating and destroying the Confederate squadron \vbichl sought to bar his way. This victory opened the city to the United States army, which occupied it on the 1st of Miay, 1862, and held it until the close of the war. Soon after its capture, N,ew Orleans became the capital of the State.

MISCELLANY. THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS. On his arrival in the city, General Jackson, in conjunction with Judge HIall, and many influential persons of the city, on the 16th of December, 1814, issued an order declaring the city and environs of New Orleans to be under strict martial law. Every individual entering the city was required to report himself to the adcljutant-general, and no person by land or water was suffered to leave the city without a passport. The street lamps were ordered to be extinguished at 9 o’clock; after which any persons found in the streets, or from their homes without permission in writing, and not having the countersign, were ordered to be apprehended as spies. This measure at once converted the whole city into a camp, and subjected the persons and property of the citizens to the will of the comnmanding general. Writs of habeas corpus, and all other civil processes by means of which the lives and properties of the people are protected, were for the time suspended.

Such was the alarm and confusion of the moment, that few inquiries were made whence the commanding general of a military station derived such powers, to be exercised over the inhabitants of the adjacent country, in nowise connected with his camp. Although the brilliant success which afterward attended the operations of General Jackson seemed to justify the measure, yet the people sawv in it a precedent, which, though it might have saved New Orleans, might at some future period extinguish their liberties. A most rigid police was now instituted. Spies and traitors, with which, the Governor complained, the city abounded, and who had been industriously employed in seducing thle French and Spanish inhabitants from their allegiance, now fled; and the remaining citizens cordially cooperated with the general in the means of defence. Fort St. Philips, which guarded the passage of the river at the Detour la Plaqemine, was strengthened and placed under the command of Major Overton, an able and skilful engineer. A site was selected for works of defence, 4 miles below the city, where its destinies were ultimately to be determined. The right rested on the river, and the left was flanked by an impenetrable cypress swamp, which extended eastward to Lake Pontchartrain, and westward to within a mile of the river. Between the swamp and the river was a large ditch or artificial bayou, which had been made for agricultural objects, but which now served an important military purpose. On the northern bank of this ditch the entrenchments were thrown up. 725

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Each flank was secured by an advance bastion, and the latter protected by batteries in the rear. These works were well mounted with artillery. Opposite this position, on the west bank of the river, on a rising ground, General Morgan, with the city and drafted militia, was stationed; and Commodore Patterson, with the crews of the Caroline and Louisiana, and the guns of the latter, formed another, near General Morgan’s; both of which entirely enfiladed the approach of an enemy against the principal works. A detachment was stationed above the town to guard the pass of the Bayou St. John, if an attempt should be made from that quarter. These arrangements, promptly and judiciously made, gave entire confidence to the citizens, and inspired them with zeal to second the general’s exertions. Reinforcements were daily arriving, and as they arrived were immediately conducted to their respective stations. Landing of the British.-In the meantime the British were actively employed in making preparations for the attack; believing the pass from Lake Borgne to Lake Pontchartrain to be defended according to General Wilkinlson’s plan, by the fortress of Petit Coquille, they determined to land from Lake Borgne by the Bayou Bienvenue. For this purpose they concentrated their forces on Ship Island, 80 miles distant from the contemplated place of landing. The depth of water in Lake Borgne was such that this distance could be traversed only by boats and small craft, and must necessarily be passed several times in order to bring up the whole armament. The first object of the British general was to clear the lake of the American gunboats; and, for this purpose, 40 British launches were sent in pursuit of them, and, after a desperate resistance, captured and destroyed the whole American flotilla, stationed on Lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain, for the defence of New Orleans, consisting of 5 gunboats and a small sloop and schooner. By this success, they obtained the undisturbed possession of the lake; and, on the 22d of December, proceeded from their rendezvous on Ship Island, with all their boats and small craft capable of navigating the lake, to the Bayou of Bienvenue; and having surprised and captured the videttes at the mouth of the bayou, the first division accomplished their landing unobserved. Major-General Villiere, of the New Orleans militia, living on the bayou, to whom the important service of making the first attack, and giving notice of the enemy’s approach, was entrusted, found them on his plantation, 9 miles below the city, without any previous knowledge of their approach. Skirmishes on the 23d.-Notice was immediately given to General Jackson, who came out and attacked them on the evening of the 23d. In this affair the British sustained a loss, in killed, wounded, and missing, of 500. The British entrenched themselves at the Bienvenue plantation, 4 miles from thie American camp, making the plantation house, in the rear of their works, their headquarters. General Jackson established his headquarters at M’Carty’s plantation, on the bank of the river, and in full view of the British encampment. Two armed schooners, the Caroline and Louisiana, constituting all the American naval force on the river, dropped down from the city, anchored opposite the British encampment, and opened a brisk fire upon their lines with considerable effect. On the 27th, the Caroline, Captain Henly, got becalmed within reach of the British batteries, and was set fire to and destroyed by their hot shot: the other succeeded in getting out of their reach. On the 28th, the British advanced to within half a mile of the American lines, and opened a fire of shells and rockets; but were driven back by the artillery with considerable loss. On the night of the 31st of December, the enemy again advanced to within 600 yards of’ General Jackson’s position, 726

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LOUISIANA. and erected three batteries, mounting 15 guns, and at 8 o’clock in the morning opened a heavy fire. In the course of the day, under cover of these batteries, three unsuccessful attempts were made to storm the American works. By 4 in the afternoon, all the batteries were silenced, and in the following night they returned to their former position. On the 4th of January, General Adair arrived with 4000 Kentucky militia, principally without arms. The muskets and munitions of war destined for the supply of this corps, were provided at Pittsburgh, and did not leave that place until the 25th of December; passed Louisville the 6th of January, and arrived at New Orleans several days after the battle of the 8th. On the 6th, the last reinforcement of 3000 men arrived from England, under Major-General Lambert. Before the final assault on the American lines, the British general deemed it necessary to dislodge General Morgan and Commodore Patterson from their positions on the right bank. These posts so effectually enfiladed the approach to General Jackson’s works, that the army advancing to the assault must be exposed to the most imminent hazard. To accomplish this object, boats were to be transported across the island from Lake Borgne to the Mississippi; Ifor this purpose the British had been laboriously employed in deepening and widening the canal or Bayou Bienvenue, on which they first disembarked. On the 7th, they succeeded in opening the embankment on the river, and completing a communication from the lake to the Mississippi. In pushing the boats through, it was found at some places the canal was not of sufficient width, and at others the banks fell in and choked the passage, which necessarily occasioned great delay and increase of labor. At length, however, they succeeded in hauling through a sufficient number to transport 500 troops to the right bank. At dawn of day, on the 8th, was the period fixed for the final assault on the American lines. Colonel Thornton was detached with 500 men, to cross the river and attack the batteries on that side, at the same time that tlthe main assault was to be made, of which he was to be informed by a signal rocket. The American general had detached Colonel Davis, with 300 Kentucky militia, badly armed, to reinforce General Morgan. These were immediately ordered to the water-edge, to oppose the enemy’s landing. Unable in their situation to contend with a superior torce of regular troops, well armed, they soon broke and fled, and the Louisiana militia at General Morgan’s battery followed their example. Commodore Patterson’s marine battery being now unprotected, his crews were obliged to yield to an overwhelming force, and the British succeeded in silencing both; but the opposition which Colonel Thornton met with prevented this operation from being completed until the contest was nearly ended on the opposite side of the river. At daylight, on the morning of the 8th, the main body of the British, under their commander-in-chief, General Packenham, were seen advancing from their encampment to storm the American lines. On the preceding evening, they had erected a battery within 800 yards, which now opened a brisk fire to protect their advance. The British came on in two columns, the left along the levee on the bank of the river, directed against the American right, while their right advanced to the swamp, with a view to turn General Jackson’s left. The country being a perfect level, and the view unobstructed, their march was observed from its commencement. They were suffered to approach in silence and unmolested, until within 300 yards of the lines. This period of suspense and expectation was employed by General Jackson and his officers in stationing every man at his post, and arranging everything for the decisive event. When the British columns had 727

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. advanced within 300 yards of the lines, the whole artillery at once opened upon them a most deadly fire. Forty pieces of cannon, deeply charged with gra)e, canister, and musket balls, mowed them down by hundreds; at the same time the batteries on the west bank opened their fire, while the riflemen, in perfect security behind their works, as the British advanced, took deliberate aiml, and nearly every shot took effect. Throughl this destructive fire the British left collmnu, under the immediate orders of the commander-in-chlief, rushed on with their fascines and scaling-ladders to the advance bastion on the American right, and succeeded in mounting the parapet; here, after a close conflict with the bayonet, they succeeded in obtaining possession of the bastion, when the battery planted in the rear for its protection, opened its fire and drove the British from the ground. On the American left, the British attempted to pass the swamp and gain the rear, but the works had been extended as far into the swamp as the ground would permit. Some who attempted it sunk into the mire and disap peared; those behind, seeing the fate of their companions, seasonably retreated and gained the hard ground. The assault contiinued an hour and a quarter: dur ing the whole time the British were exposed to the deliberate and destructive fire of the American artillery and musketry, which lay in perfect security behind their earthen breastworks, through which no halls could penetrate. At 8 o’clock, the British columns drew off in confusion, and retreated behind their works.

Flushed with success, the militia were eager to pursue the British troops to their intrenchments, and drive them immediately from the island. A less prudent and accomplished general might have been induced to yield to the indiscreet ardor of his troops; but General Jackson understood too well the nature both of his own and his enemy’s force to hazard such an attempt. Defeat must inevitably have attended an assault made by raw militia upon an intrenched camp of British regulars. The defence of New Orleans was the object; nothling was to be hazarided which would jeopardize the city. The British were suffered to retire behind their works without molestation. The result was such as might be expected from the different positions of the two armies. General Packenham, near the crest of the glacis, received a ball in his knee. Still continuing to lead on his men, another shot pierced his body, and hlie was carried off the field. Nearly at the same time, Major-General Gibbs, the second in command, within a few yards of the lines, received a mortal wound, and was removed. The third in command, Major-General Keane, at the head of his troops near the glacis, was severely wounded. The three commanding generals, on marshaling their troops at 5 o’clock in the morning, promised them a plentiful dinner in New Orleans, and gave t-hem Booty and Beauty as the parole and countersign of the day. Before 8 o’clock the three generals were carried off the field, twd in the agonies of death, and the third entirely disabled; leaving upwards of 2000 of their men, dead, dying, and wounded, on the field of battle. Colonel Raynor, who commanded the forlorn hope which stormed the American bastion on the right, as lihe was leading his men up, had the calf of his leg carried away by a cannon shot.

Disabled as he was, he was the first to mount the parapet, and receive the American bayonet. Seven hundred were killed on the field, 1400 wounded, and 500 made prisoners, making a total on that day of 2600. But 6

Americans were killed and 7 wounded. Of General Morgan’s detachment on the west bank, and in a sortie on the British lines, 49 were killed, and 178
wounded. After the battle, General Lambert, who had arrived from England but two days before, and was now the only surviving general, requested a truce for the 728

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LOUISIANA. purpose of burying his dead. This was granted until 4 o’clock in the afternoon of the 9th. Lines were drawn 100 rods distant from the American camp, within which the British were not permitted to approach. In the ditchl, and in front of the works, within the prescribed lines, 482

British dead were picked up by the American troops, and delivered to their companions over the lines for burial. The afternoon of the 8th, and the whole of the 9th, was spent by the British army in burying their dead. The American sentinels guarding the lines during this interval, frequently repeated in the hearing of the British, while tumbling their companions by hundreds into pits, “Six killed, seven wounded.” Retreat of the Britishl.-On the night of the 18th, they broke up their encampment, and commenced their retreat to the place of their first landing. To accomplishl this with safety, it was necessary that the army should move in one body. WNithl this view, immediately after the battle of the 8th, large working parties had been employed in constructing a road thlroughl a quagmire, for a considerable distance along the margin of the bayou: by binding together large quantities of reeds, and laying them across the mire; in the course of nine days, these parties had constructed someting resembling a road from their encampment to the place of debarkation. Along this insecure track the British army silently stole their march in the night of the 18th] of January. By the treading of the first corps, the bundles of reeds gave way, and their followers had to wade up to their knees in mire. Several perished in the sloughs, the darkness of the night preventing their companions from affording relief. At the mouth of the bayou were a few huits, whiclh afforded shelter for fishermen in the season of catching fish for the New Orleans market; here the troops halted and bivouacked previous to their embarkation. Their provisions being exhausted, a few crumbs of biscuit and a small allowance of ruim was their only support. Here they were 80 miles from their ships, the whole of which distance they had to traverse in small open boats; and having but few of these, the embarkation occupied ten days. On the 27th, the whole land and naval forces which remained of this disastrous expedition, to their great joy, found themselves on board their ships. Their ranks thinned, their chiefs and many of their companions slain, their bodies emaciated with hunger, fatigue, and sickness, they gladly quitted this inauspicious country. The surviving commandcling general observes, “that the services of both army and navy, since their landing on this coast, have been arduous beyond anything he ever before witnessed, and difficulties have been gotten over with an assiduity and perseverance beyond example by all ranks.” A British officer of distinction, an actor in the scene, thus describes his tour from the encampment to the embarkation: “For some time our route lay along the high road beside the brink of the river, and was agreeable enough; but as soon as we began to enter upon the path thlrough the marsh, all comfort was at an end. Being constructed of materials so slight, and resting upon a foundation so infirm, the treading of the first corps unavoidably beat it to pieces: those which followed were therefore compelled to flounder on in the best way they could; and by the time the rear of the column gained the morass, all trace of a way had entirely disappeared. But not only were the reeds torn asunder and sunk by the pressure of those who had gone before, but the bog itself; which at first might have furnished a few spots of firm footing, was trodden into the consistency of mud. The consequence was, that every step sunk us to the knees, and frequently higher. Near the ditches, indeed, many spots occurred which we had the utmost difficulty of crossing at all; and as the night was dark, there being no moon, nor any light, except 729

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. what the stars supplied, it was difficult to select our steps, or even to follow those who called to us that they were safe on the other side. At one of these places, I myself behleld an unfortunate wretch gradually sink, until he totally disappeared. I saw him flounder in, heard him cry for help, and ran forward with the intention of saving him; but before I had taken a second step, I myself sunk at once as high as the breast. I could feel no solid bottom under me, and continued slowly to go deeper and deeper till the mud reached my arms. Instead of endleavoring to help the poor soldier, of whom nothing now could be seen except the head and hands, I was forced to beg assistance for myself, when a leathern canteen strap being thrown me, I laid hold of it, and was dragged out just as my fellow-sufferer became invisible. Over roads such as these did we continue our march during the whole of the night, and in the morning arrived at a place called Fishermen’s huts, consisting of a clump of mud-built cottages, standing by the edge of the water, on a part of the morass rather more firm than the rest. Here we were ordered to halt; wearied with exertions and oppressed with want of sleep, I threw myself on the ground without so much as taking off my muddy garments, and in an instant all cares and troubles were forgotten. Nor did I awake from that deep slumber for many hours; when I arose, cold and stiff, and addressed myself to the last morsel of salt pork my wallet contained.

Without tents or huts of any description, our bed was the morass, and our only covering the clothes which had not quitted our backs for more than a month; our fires were composed solely of reeds, which, like straw, soon blaze up and expire again, without communicating any degree of warmth.

But, above all, our provisions were expended, and from what quarter an immediate supply was to be obtained, we could not discover. Our sole dependence was upon the boats. Of these a flotilla lay ready to receive us, in which were already embarked the black corps and the 44th; but they had brought with them only food for their own use, it was therefore necessary that they should reach the fleet and return again before we could be supplied. But as the nearest shipping was 80 miles distant, and the weather might become boisterous, or the winds obstinate, we might starve before any supply could arrive. As soon as the boats returned, regiment after regiment embarked and set sail for the fleet; but the distance being considerable, and the wind foul, many days elapsed before the whole could be got off; by the end of the month, we were all once more on board our former ships.” 730

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TEX AS. Area,………… Population in 1860……… (Whites, 421,294; Negroes, 182,921.) Population in 1870,……… THE State of Texas lies between 25~ 50’ and 36~ 30’ N. latitude, and between 93~ 30’ and 107~ W.

longitude. It is bounded on the north by the Indian Territory and New Mexico, on the east by Arkansas, Louisiana, and the Gulf of Mexico, on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and the Republic of Mexico, and on the west by the Republic of Mexico and the Territory of New Mexico. It is very irregular in shape, and is the largest of the States. Its extreme length, from northwest to southeast, is estimated at 800 miles, and its extreme width, from east to west, at 750 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. “This great State embraces every variety of surface, mountain, plain, hill, and desert within its limits. In the southeast, along the coast is a level belt of land, from 30 to 60 miles in breadth, which is succeeded by an undulating and prairie country, occupying another belt of from 150 to 200 miles in width, which is followed in the west and northwest by the mountainous region and the tableland. The extreme north is invaded by the Great American Desert, which extends, perhaps, about 60 miles within the boundary of Texas. According to Mr. Bartlett, the pleateau of Texas, including part of New M e x i c o, extends from 30~ to 34~ N. latitude, and from the Rio Grande east for 300 miles. The north portion, called Llano Estacado or ‘Staked Plain,’ is 2500 feet above the sea. This broad district is des 731 il.- 247,356 Square Miles. 604,215 810,218

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ON THE GULF. titute of forest trees and shrubbery, except along the ma;-gins of the streams, and even there never extending 100 yards from the banks. Just after rains a short stunted grass springs up, but speedily becomes dry, affording little nourishment. In this region rise the Red, Brazos, and Colorado rivers. About 29~ 30’ N. latitude the tableland breaks off into spurs, which descends to the prairies. The rivers have generally alluvial bottoms of fromn 3 to 20 miles in width, which are of great fertility, and heavily timbered. The belts referred to above run across the State in a direction nearly northeast and southwest, so that almost all the northern part of Eastern Texas is included in the second division, or the undulating country. Little is known of the elevated lands of the west and northwest, as they are yet the home of few white muen except the hunters, who pursue its buffaloes and other wild 732

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TEXAS. animals. It is, however, represented as being a well-watered and fertile region. A low raing,e of mountains, called the Colorado Hills, runs in a northern and southern direction, east of the Colorado River; indeed, the whole section of the State in the same parallel, between the Colorado and the Brazos rivers, is broken with lows mountains. Between the Colorado and the Rio Grande, and north of the sources of the Nueces and San Antonio, the country is crossed by broken ranges of mountains, running in various directions, but of whose altitude and character we have little reliable information. They appear, however, to be outlying ridges of the great Rocky Mountain chain. Of these the Organ, Hiueco or Waco, and Guadalupe Mountains extend from the northwestern extremity of Texas, where they termini,ate, in a northern direction into:New Mexico. According to Bartlett, the first are about 3000 feet above the Rio Grande, and the last the same altitude above the plain. “The coast of Texas is lined with a chain of low islands, which form a series of bays, sounds, and lagoons; the most important of which are Galveston, Matagorda, Espiritu Santo, Aransas, and Corpus Christi bays, and the Laguna del Madre. Commencing at GalvestonI Bay, in the northeast, they lie along the Gulf of Mexico in the order in which they are named. Galveston Bay, the largest of these, extends about 35 mliles inland from the Gulf of Mexico, in a direction nearly noithl. MIatagrorda Bay, 60 miles long by 6 to 10 wide, and Laguna del Madre, 90 miles long by 3 to 6 wide, are sounds rather than bays, and run nearly parallel with the shore. The inlets of these are much obstructed by bars; Galveston Inlet, the best, is said to have but 12 feet water, the entrance of Matagorda Bay 11 feet, and that of San Luis but 10
feet. Aransas Bay extends in a northeastern and southwestern direction about 25 miles, by about 1 2 miles in width; Corpus Christi Bay, 40 miles from north to south, by 20 miles from east to west; and Espiritu Santo is 20 miles long by 10 wide; Copano Bay, opening into Aransas, is 20 miles long by 3 wide. A writer in’De Bonw’s Resources in the South and West,’

however, says-‘ Steamshlips of 1200 to 1500 tons, and sail vessels of 1000
tons, can enter the port of Galveston.’ Texas is crossed by several long rivers, generally rising in the tablelands of the west and northwest, and pursuing a southeastern course, discharge their waters into the Gulf of Mexico. Commencing with the Rio Grandie, the largest river in Texas, 1800
miles long, and which forms its southwestern boundnry, and proceeding along the coast, we have the Nueces, San Antonio, 733

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Guadalupe, Colorado, Brazos, Trinity, Nechles, and Sabine, whose lengths, in the order named, are about 300, 250, 275, 800, 500, 400, 300, and 350 miles, as estimated by measurements onI the mapl).

The Red River rises in the northwest of the State, and forms a large part of the northern boundary line. The Canadian, a branch of the Arkansas, crosses the northern projection of the State. All of these are navigable to a greater or less extent, (depending on the wetness or dryness of the season, and on local obstructions,) the Sabine for about 150 miles; the Trinity, to Porter’s Bluffs, latitude 32~ 20’; the San Jacinto, 50 miles; the Brazos, to Sullivan’s Shoals, near latitude 31~ N.; the Nueces, 100
miles; the Rio Grande, 400 miles; and the Red River, to Preston, latitude 34~ N., and longitude 96~ 20’ W.; (during highi water.) The Colorado is obstructed by a raft 10 miles from its mouth; but when this is removed, which it doubtless wvill be ere long, it will give a navigation of several hundred miles. There are a number of small rivers or tributaries, navigable to some extent, and besides their value as channels of commerce, they afford in many instances excellent sites for mlill seats. There are no known lakes of importance in Texas. Sabine Lake, an expansion of the river of that name, near its mouth, 20 miles long, is on the boundary of Texas and Louisiana. There is a salt lake near the Rio Grande, from which large quantities of salt are annually taken.”>” MIINERALI,S, CLIMATE, SOIL, AND PRODUCTS. The Hon. Henry S. Randall, of New York, in a paper lately coIntributed to The iRtrat New Yoi-ker, thus describes the mineral and agricultural productions of the State: “GEOLOGY. The lower and rolling lands are alluvial. The hIilly region is eretaceous, and abounds in excellent limestone for building. Beyond this, primitive rocks appear in many places. The great plains consist of stratified clay and cretaceous marls. On the verge of these plains are deposits of gypsumn extending over an area of thousands of square miles. Coal b)eds exist in different localities. Iron ores are found in inexhaustible quantities on the Llatno River, and they abound on tributaries of Red River in northeastern Texas.

Copper has been discovered in different places, and also specimens of the precious metals. The mineral regions of the State have been so little explored, that the extent of its resources in this respect are but be *

Lippincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1905. 734

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TEXAS. ginning to be known. Various salt springs have been found, and salt of good quality, produced by natural evaporation, can be obtained in immense if not inexhaustible quantities at the salt lagunes below Corpus Christi, and at the salt lake in Hidalgo county, forty miles from the PRio Grande. “CLIMATE.-As a sample of the climate, we give the mean temperature of every month in the year 1859, as observed by Professor C. G. Forshey, in Fayette county, on the Colorado, in latitude 30~: January, 50~ 57’; February, 62~ 44’; March, 61~ 50’; April, 65~ 31’; Maya, 75~ 61’; June, 81~ 56’; July, 84~ 76’; August, 84~ 90’; September, 79~ 42’; October, 66~

29’; Noveimber, 63~ 92’; December, 43~; annual mean, 68~ 041’. “‘In point of climate,’ says Olmsted,‘Texas claims, with at least as much justice as any other State, to be called the Italy of America. The general average of temperature corresponds, and the skies are equally clear and glowinig. The peculiarities over other climates of latitude are found in its unwavering summer sea-)breeze and its winter nortlhers. The first is a delightful alleviation of its summer heats, flowving in each day from the Gulf, as the sun’s rays become oppressive, and extending remotely inland to the farthest settlements, with the same trustworthy steadiness. It continues thlrough the evening, and is described as having so great effect that, however oppressive the day may have been, the nights are always cool elnough to demand a blanket and yield invigorating rest.’ “The severe northers occur from December to April, and usually occupy not much over 40
days. Thile rapid reduction of the temperature from 70 or 75 degrees, to 30 or 40 degrees, and the driving wind, are keenly felt. AVhen most cold and violent, and accompanied with rain and sleet, they sometimes cause considerable destruction allmong domestic animals exposed to their fury.

These instances, however, are rare, and the shelter of a grove or hill, or even a good farm wall, is sufficient to prevent such consequences. They are regarded as healthful and invigorating, and, notwithstanding the sudden change of temperature accompanying them, do not cause, or even exasperate, pulmonary diseases. It is claimed that consumption does not originate in the region where they prevail. “As in all new, warm, and highly fertile countries, tlhe low, rich river bottoms-especially those of southern Texas, which are covered with a bolundless profilsion of semi-tropical vegretation are not healthy to unaceclimated persons. The higher lands between those 735

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. rivers are usually considered healthy, where judicious dispositions are made by the emigrant; but the Northern emigrant runs some risk of undergoing a’seasoning’ course of chills and fever. The hilly regions of the west are as free from mnalaria as any other new countries we ever heard of-far more so, we judge, than were large portions of Ohio, Illinois, and Michlligan, when first settled. We have known of hundreds of people from the Northern, Middle, anid Western States, who have emigrated to the sheep-region, presently to be described, and we scarcely remember of hearing of one who incurred any disease in the process of acclimation.

Great numbers of invalids, especially of consumptive invalids, from the older Southern States, resort to the region around San Antonio for the improvement of their health. The native Mexicans used to tell a story in regard to its healthfulness which has a regular Yankee smack to it. They said some travellers approaching San Antonio met three disconsolate looking persons who were hastening away from the city. They asked them what was the matter, and where they were going. The three disconsolate looking persons replied that they had met with reverses, that they wished to die, and were going to some place where people cout(l die. “Yellow fever is imported into the coast towns, as it is imported into New York and Philadelphia, but it does not originate in them. Its ravages, as would be expected in such a climate, are sometimes severe; but it does not penetrate into the hilly region anv more than it penetrates into the interior of New York or Pennsylvania. “SOILs A-ND PRODUCTS.-In the north, the rich, black soil is especially adapted to the production of wheat, yielding in ordinary seasons, and under the very imperfect cultivation it receives, anl average of 21 bushels to the acre. It is of superior quality, and very heavyill occasional instances reaching 72 pounds to the bushel. The wheat region proper embraces about 30 counties, of which Dallas is the centre. “The eastern counties, unlike the rest of the State; were covered by forests. The most northerly of these are highly adapted to a diversified husbandry….. The southeastern and central southern counties are the most fertile in Texas, and include the best cotton-growilng region of anything like an equal area in the world. The cotton counties proper constitute about one-third of the State….. Sugar has been produced to considerable extent near the mouths of the Brazos and Colorado. The soil of western Texas, exclusive of the barren region between the Nueces and the Rio Grande, consists generally of black, calcareous loam, and its pasturages are probably unequalled by any other natural ones in the world….. 736

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TEXAS. …. “Corn, wheat, oats, rye, barley, buckwheat, millet, sorghum, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, peas, beans, turnips, pumpkins, and gardeni vegetables of every kind, produce remunerative, and some of them abundant, crops on all the good soils of the State, and from many of theml-t\oo crops might be taken in a season. Fruits can be grown inll bound(less profusion….. Horses, neat cattle, sheep, and hogs require so little artificial food that they can be raised at the most trifling expense.” In 1869 there were 2,650,781 acres of inproved land in the State. Tile returns for the same year were as follows: Bushels of wheat,………… Indian corn,……. ” peas and beans,…… sweet potatoes (estimated),…. ” oats………………….. Bales of cotton,…………. Pounds of butter,………. Number of horses,……….. asses and mules,…… milch cows,……… “
sheep,……… * a swine,…………… young cattle,……… Value of domestic animals,…… COM.AIERCE AND MANUIFACTURES. Texas has a large and profitable trade with the Northern States, and with Mexico, and some European commerce. In 1860 the exports of the State amounted to $6,783,934, and the imports to $2,436,408. Manufactures receive but little attention. In 1860 the capital invested in them amounted to $3,850,000.

The annual product was valued at $6,250,000. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS.

Considering that Texas was but recently settled, and that it is still very sparsely populated, we must admit that it has made very decided progress in internal improvements. Good roads connect the various parts of the State, and there is railroad communication between Madison, on the Sabine River, and Houston, Austin, and Galveston. A railroad is in progress across southern Louisiana, from the Sabine River 47 737 . 1,250,000 .

23,000,000 341,961 . 1,500,000 . 1,250,000 465,(000 . 5,850,583 600,000

93,800 640,320 998.972 . 1,580,600 ~ 2,540,300 . $49,825,447

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. to New Orleans. In 1868 the State contained 479 miles of railroad, constructed at a cost of $17,280,000. EDUCATION. In 1860, Texas contained 25 colleges, wvith 2416 students; 97 academies and other schools, with 5916 pupils; and 1218 public schools, with 34,611 pupils.

There was a Boar(l of Education for the State, which controlled the system. The Superintendent of Public Instruction, in 1868, wrote as follows concerning the schools of his State: “There is no school systemi in Texas, and the seclool fund whichl had been accumulating, was mainly ruinied and dissip)ated by the war. A plan for free schools, in essentials similar to the systems of the States of the North and WTest, has been submitted to the Reconstruction Coimmittee, now in session, and strong hlopes are entertained of its adoption. The number of children who should be at school in Texas, exceeds 200,000; the numtrber actually enjoying school privileges is about 20,000.” Since 1868 a public school system similar to that of the other States has been adopted, but had not gone into operation in 1870. The permanent school fund of the State amounts to $2,575,000, nearly all of which is available. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The AState IPeitentiaiy is located at lHuntsville. It was erected lil 1848. We have no recent returns from it. The Texas Institution for the -Deaf and.Dumb is located on the wrest bank of the Colorado River, opposite the city of Austin. It is in great need of suitable building,s, and is sadly embarrassed by the unsettled condition of the State. In 1868 it contained 22 pupils. Thlere are also a Blind Asyalum and a State Lunatie Asylum in operation, both of which are supported by the State. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860 there were 1034 churches in Texas, and the value of church property was $;1,095,254. FINANCES. The finances of Texas are in a prosperous condition. The State debt in 1870 amounted to about $360,000, a mere trifle. On the 3d of 73S

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TEXAS. September, 1867, there was a balance of $20,232 in the Treasury.

The receipts from that date to April 16th, 1870, were $1,384,190, and the expenditures for the same period,.$1,024,891, leaving an unexpended balance in the Treasury of $379,531. Adding the balance of the Convention fund still on hand, the cash balance in the Treasury amounted to $416,709.

GOVERNMENT. Until the latter part of the year 1869, the State constituted a part of the Fifth Military District. Between the 30th of November, and 3d of December, 1869, the people by their votes ratified the new Constitution, and on the 30th of March, 1870, the State was readmitted into the Union. By the terms of the new Constitution, every male citizen of the United States, 21 years of age, except criminals, lunatics, and Indians not taxed, without regard to race, color, or previous condition, wvho has resided in the State one year, and in the county six months, is entitled to vote at the elections. Thle Government consists of a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretarv of State, Treasurer, and Comptroller; and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate of 30 members, and a House of Representatives of 90 members, all elected by the people. The highest judicial tribunal is the Supreme Court, consisting of three judges. The State is divided into 35 judicial districts, for each of which, a District Judge is elected, who is required to hold three terms of his court annually, in each county of his district. There are also Justices of the Peace, with jurisdiction in petty cases, who try causes by themselves, or with a jury of 6 men. For the purpose of repressing crimte and lawlessness, there is a State police force, consisting of 4 captains, 8
lieutenants, 20 sergeants, and 225 privates. The Adjutant-General of the State acts as Chief of this police. All sheriffs, their deputies, constables, marshals of cities and towns, their deputies, and the police of cities and towns, are made cx-oqcio members of this force, and as such are at all times subject to the orders of the Governor, or of’ the Adjutant-General, for the purpose of preventing crime or arresting offenders. The chief and the whlole force are sulbject to the orders of the Governor. For the protection of the settlers a,gainst the Indians, companies of rangers are maintained on the frontier, at the expense of the State. Home 139

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. steads of not more than 200 acres in the country, and a lot or lots not in a village or town exceeding $5000 ill value, exclusive of the value of the improvements, are exempted from executions for debt. Liberal inducements in offers of land are held out to actual settlers. The lands thus offered are among the finest in the State. For purposes of Government the State is divided into 124 counties. The seat of government is located at Austin. HISTORY. Texas was first settled by a colony of French under La Salle. It was the intention of the leader of this expedition to found a colony near the mouth of the Mississippi, but sailing past it through mistake, he entered Matagorda Bay, and ascended the Lavaca for five or six miles, where he built Fort St. Louis, about the year 1686. After enduring many hardships, he was murdered by his men on the 20th of March, 1687. When the Indians heard of his death, they attacked the fort, the garrison of which had been much reduced by quarrels among themselves, captured it, and killed all its defenders but four, whom they carried into captivity. In April, 1689, a Spanish expedi tion arrived in Matagorda Bay for the purpose of driving away the French, but found the fort destroyed. A few years later several settlements were made in Texas by the Spaniards, but in consequence of the hostilities of the Indians, thev abandoned them. In 1712, Louis XIV. of France, granted the province, which he claimed, to Crozat, to whom he had granted Louisiana. This act so alarmed the Spanish authorities in Mexico that they at once made numerous settlements in Texas, in order to secure the territory in advance of the French, who in 1721 made an unsuccessful effort to expel them. In 1728, 400 families were sent out to Texas from the Canary Isles by the Spanish Government, and were joined in that country by others from Mexico. These settlers founded the city-of San Antonio. The Indians of Texas and Louisiana proved very troublesome for some time, but were defeated in a great battle by the Spaniardls, in 1732, and quieted for some years.

During the American Revolution, the authorities of Texas, after the declaration of war against England by Spain in 1779, carried on active hostilities against the Britishl on the Mississippi. During this period prosperous trade was carried on vid Nacogdoehes, between the Spanish settlement of Nat(chez, in Mississippi, and the interior of Texas, and was finally the means of making this State known to the Americans. 140

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TEXAS. In 1803 Louisiana passed into the hands of the United States, and in 1819, a treaty between this country and Spain, fixed the Sabine River as the eastern boundary of Texas upon the Gulf. In 1806, the population numbered 7000 souls, a number of whom were Americans. “WTest of the Sabine was a tract called the’Neutral Ground,’ which was occupied by bands of outlaws and desperate men, who lived as buccaneers, by robbery and plunder, perpetrated upon the traders. The Spanish authorities had endeavored to expel them, but could not. The United States sent a force against theIn, and drove them away; but they returned again, and renewed their depredations. About this time, Lieutenant A. WV. Magee, a native of Massachusetts, who had commlanded an expedition against these outlaws, conceived the idea of conquering Texas to the Rio Grande, and establishing a republican Government. The enterprise was undertaken in the name of Don Bernardo Gutierres, though Magee was in reality at the head of the movement. The freebooters of the neutral ground joined his standard, in June, 1812. The civil war at this time raging in Mexico favored the designs of’Magee, who had with him nearly every ablebodied man east of the Trinity. He crossed the Colorado with about 800 men. At this point, he learned that Salcedo, the royalist Governor of Texas, had come out against him as far as the Guadalupe, with 1400 men, where hlie lay in ambush.

Magee then made a forced march, and reached La Bahia on the 14th of November, which was surrendered to him withl but little opposition. Here Magee was besieged by Salcedo for three weeks. Previous to the last assault, Magee agreed to deliver up the fort and return home. When this agreemnent was made known to the army, it was unanimously voted down.

Major 1emper, the next in command, took the lead. Magee, deeply Inortified, retired to his tent, and, it is said, died by his own hand a little after midnight. The Spaniards withdrew to San Antonio, after having continued the siege till the 12thl of March, 1813. “The Americans, being reinforced, miarched on San Antonio. When withini about nine miles of that place, they camne upon the Spanish army, under Governor Salcedo, about 2500 strong, being about double the number of the Americans. The battle of Rosalis ensued, nearly 1000 of the Spaniards were slain, and some few taken prisoners. The next day, Governor Salcedo surrendered, and being put in charge of a company of Bexar Mexicans to be transported to N’ew Orleans, he, with 13 other officers, among whom was ex-Gov 741

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ernols Herrera and Cordero, were taken to the bank of the river below the town, where they were stripped and tied, and their throats cut! Colonel Kemper, Major Ross, and others, being disgusted with such treachery and barbarity, left the army and returned home. Captain Perry now took the command, and on the night of June 4th, attacked and routed an army of over 2000 sent against them. The repub licans, however, were finally defeated by another army, under General Arredondo, on the Medina, with great slaughter. Only 93 Americans reached Natchitoches, among wvhomi were Colonel Perry and Captains Taylor and Ballard. The Spaniards being successful, in revenge, committed horrid attrocities upon the friends of the republican party. Thus ended the first effort at Texan independence. “In February, 1819, in a treaty with Spain, the Floridas were ceded to the United States, and the Sabine agreed upon as the boundary of the Spanish possessions. Texas thus being relinquished for Florida, a far less valuable territory, gave much dissatisfaction to the southern portion of the people of the United States. Early in 1819, Dr.

James Long raised a company in Natchez, of 75 men, and proceededI to Nacogdoches, and on his arrival, being joined by Colonel Davenport and Bernardo Gutierres, his command was increased to 300. A provisional Government was then formed, and Texas was declared to be a’free and independent rep)ublioc.’ They also enacted laws, and fixed the price of lands, those on Red River being estimated at a dollar per acre. They also established the first printing office, Horatio Bigelow being the editor of the paper. General Long posted a few troops at the crossing of the Trinity, the falls of the Brazos, and at other places; he also dispatched Colonel Gaines to Galveston, in order to obtain the cooperation of Lafitte, the freebooter, in the revolution. This was declined, Lafitte stating the forces were entirely inadequate for the purpose. Meantime, the royalists, under Colonel Parez, came and took the post on the Brazos, withl 1 1prisoners, October 11thl, 1819, and on the 15thl they took La B-ahia (nowv Goliad), and afterwvards the post on the Trinity, and then proceeded to Nacogdoches, General Long and his men having barely made their escape to the Sabine. Parez proceeded to Cooshattie village, and about 40 miles below that place, after a severe conflict with tl)he republicans, routed them. The latter fled to Bolivar Point, near Galveston, where General Long afterwards joined them. “General Long appears to have continued his headquarters at Bolivar Point for some time; meanwhile Lafitte was obliged to leave Gal ‘1‘42

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TEXAS. veston. Onii the day on which he left, General Long, with Colonel Milam and others, camne over from Bolivar Point and dined with Lafitte.

Soon after, Long, Milami, and Trespalacios, collecting their forces, sailed withl them (Townl the coast. General Long landed near the mouth of the San Antonio, and proceeding with a party took possession of La Bahia.

Milam and Trespalacios soon after went to Mexico, in order to raise funds firom the Republican Government, for at this time the revolutionary cause was gaining ground in Mexico. Notwithstanding this, it appears that the royalists succeeded in capturing General Long soon after, when he was sent to the city of Mexico, and then set at liberty, and finally assassinated.

The wife of General Long, who remained at Bolivar Point during, the absence of her husband, having heard of his death, returned to her friends in the United States. “In December, 1820, Moses Austin, a native of Connecticut, I)ut for some time a, resident of Missouri, set out for San Antonio de Bexar, to solicit the sanction of the Government, and to procure a tract of land, for the settlement of an Anglo-American colony in Texas. On presenting himself to the Governor, he was, according to the Spanish regulations respecting foreigners, ordered to leave the province imme(liately. On crossing the public square, he accidentally met the Baron de Bastrop, with whom he had a slight acquaintance in the United States, many years before. By his influence he obtained a second interview with the Governor, the result of which was that his petition to introduce 300

American families into Texas was recommended and forwarded to the proper authorities in Mexico. It was granted in January, 1821. Mr. Austin returned before its fate was known, and (lied shortly afterward. He left special injunctions to his son, Stephen F. Austin, to carry out his cherished plan to establish a colonly. “On July 21, 1821, Stephen F.

Austin, accompanied by Senor Seguin and seventeen pioneers, entered the wilderness of lcexas to lay the foundation of her present prosperity. He explored various parts, and after meeting with losses and difficulties, located his colony on the Brazos. Austin soon repaired to San Antonio, to report to the Governor, who appears to have been friendly to the enterprise. When he arrived there, in March, 1822, he learned, with much regret, that it was necessary to make a journey to the city of Mexico, to procure a grant from the supreme authorities. On the 29thl of April ensuing Colonel Austin arrived in Mexico, and succeeded in obtaining from Iturbide, then emperor, a confirmation of the grant made to his father.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. When about to return to Texas, Iturbide was overthrown, and his acts declared null and void. Austin was again obliged to apply to the reigning authorities, who renewed the grant, and in effect clothed him with almost sovereign power. In conjunction with Baron Bastrop, Austin fixed his colonial capital on the Brazos, calling it San Felipe de Austin. “WVhen the Mexican Government, in 1825, abolished slavery within her limits, most of the settlers in Texas being planters from the Southern States, who had brought their slaves with them, felt them selves aggrieved, and petitioned the Mexican congress in vain for re lief. On the establishment of Centratismi, under Santa Anna, Texas, in 1835, declared her independence. In 1836, Santa Anna, President of Mexico, with a force of several thousand men, moved forward, threat ening to exterminate the Americans, or to drive them fromn the soil of Texas. In March, San Antonio de Bexar was besieged; the Alamo there, defended by only 187 Americans, was carried by storm, and all slain; among them were Colonel Travis, Colonel David Crockett and Colonel Bowie, the inventor of the bowie-k)ife. While Santa Anna was engaged at San Antonio, General Urrea marchled upon Goliad. He had a severe contest with Colonel Fannin’s troops, who, on March 20th, surrendered themselves as prisoners of war.

Nine days afterward the Texan prisoners, to the number of 330, were led out and massacred in cold blood. “On the 7th of April, 1836, Santa Anna arrived at San Felipe wiLthL the divisions of Sesma and Tolsa. He proceeded down the west bank of the Brazos, crossed the river at Richmond, and on the 16thl reached Harrisburg. The Texans, under General Houston, now reduced to less than 800 men, retiring before his advance, proceeded down the bank of the Buffalo Bayou, and took a position near the RIiver Sanr Jacinto. On the 21st of April, 1836, Santa Anna, with a force of over 1700 men, being encamped near General Houston, wa~ attacked by the Texans.

When within about 600 yards, the Mexican line opened their fire upon them, but the Texans, nothing daunted, pressed on to a close conflict, which lasted about 18 minutes, when the enemy gave way, and were totally routed, nearly every man was either killed, wounded, or taken prisoner. The Texan loss was but 2 killed, and 23 wounded. This victory secured the independence of Texas. “In 1841, President Lamar organized what has been termed the ‘Santa Fe Expedition,’ the object of which was to open trade with Santa Fe, and to establish Texan authority, in accordance with the 744

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TEXAS. treaty of Santa Anna, over all the territory east of the Rio Grande. Santa Fe, lying east of that river, was still in possession of the MAexicans. On the 18th of June, the expedition, numbering 325 men, under General M’Leod, left Austin, the capital of Texas, and after a journey of about three months, arrived at the Spanishl settlements in New Alexico.

They were intercepted by a vastly superior force, and surre(ndered on condition of their being allowed to return; but instead of this, they were bound withl ropes and leather thongs, in gangs of six or eight, stripped of most of their clothing, and marchled to the city of Mexico, a distance of 1200 miles. On their route, they were treated with cruelty, beaten, and insulted; forced to march at times by night as well as by day; blinded by sand, parched by thirst, and famishing with hunger. “Having arrived at Mexico in the latter part of December, they were, by the orders of Santa Anna, thrown into filthy prisons. After a while, part were compelled to labor as common scavengers in the streets of the city; while others were sent to the stone quarries of Pueblo, where, under brutal taskmasters, they labored with heavy chains fastened to their limbs. Of the whole number, three were murdered on the marec; several died of ill-treatment and hardship; some few escaped, some were pardoned, and nearly all eventually re leased. ‘So)on after the result of this expedition was known, rumors prevaile(l of an intended invasion of Texas. In September, 1842, 1200 Mexicans, under General Woll, took the town of Bexar; but subsequenitly retreated beyond the Rio Grande. A Texan army was collected, who were zealous to carry the war into Mexico. After various disappointments and the return of most of the volunteers, 300 Texans crossed the Rio Grande and attacked the town of Mier, which was garrisoned by more than 2000 Mexicans strongly posted. In a dark, rainy night, they drove in the guard, and in spite of a constant fire of the enemy, effected a lodgment in some houses in the suburbs, and with the aid of the deadly rifle fought their way into the heart of the place. At length, Ampudia sent a white flag, which was accompanied by General La Vega and other officers, to inform the Texans of the utter hopelessness of resistance against an enemy ten times their number. The little band at length very reluctantly surrendered, after a loss of only 3.5 in killed and wounded, while the Mexicans admitted theirs to have been over 500. “The Texans, contrary to the stipulations, were marched to Mexico, ‘1‘45

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. distant 1000 miles. On one occasion, 214 of them, although un armed, rose upon their guard of over 300 men, overpowered and dispersed them, and commenced their journey homeward; but iglo rant of the country and destitute of provisions, and being pursued by a large party, they were obliged to surrender. Every tenth man was shot for this attempt at escape. The others were thrown into the dungeons of Perote, where about 30 died of cruel treatment. A fewv escape(l, and the remainder were eventually released. “Early application wvas made by Texas to be annexed to the United States. Several years passed over without any serious attempts having been made by Mlexico to regain Texas, and the political free domi of the country was thus considered as established. Presidents Jackson and Fan Buren, in turn, objected on the ground of the unsettled boundary of Texas, and( the peaceful relations with Mexico. President Tyler brough,t forward the measure, but it was lost in Congress. It having been the test question in the enisuing Presidential election, and the people deciding in its favor by the election of tihe Democratic candidates, Texas was annexedl to the Union by a joint resolution of Congress, February 28, 1845. “The Mexican Minister, Al imonte, who had before announced that Mexico would declare war if Texas was annexed, gave notice that since America had consummated’the most unjust act in her history,’ neg,otiations were at an end. “War with Mexico then ensued. The theatre of war in this State was on the Rio Grande. General Taylor, with the American troops, routed the Mexicans on the soil of Texas, at Palo Alto and Resaca de la Palma, and the arms of the United States were everywhere triumphant. The State Government was organized on the 19th of February, 1846. The boundary between New Mexico and Texas, the latter of which claimed the line of the Rio Grande, was ad(justed by treaty in 1850.

The joint resolution by which Texas was annexed to the Union gives permission for the erection of four additiolnal States fromn its territory, and in these words-‘ New States, not exceeding four in number, in addition to said State of Texas, and having sufficient population, may hereafter, by the consent of said State, be formed out of the territory thereof, which shall be entitled to admission under the provisions of the Federal Constitution.’” 13arber’s Hlistory of All the Western States.

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TEXAS. On the 5th of February, 1861, the State seceded froIn the Union, and joined the Southerll Confederacy. During the war it had coIImparative exemption from hostilities, except along the coast, where considerable suffering was experienced. At the close of the war a Provisional Government was erected, but was repudiated by Congress, and in 1867 the State was made a part of the 5thl Military District, and continued under military rule until March, 1870, when it was readmitted into the Union.

CITIES AND TOW\NS. The principal cities and tewns are, Galveston, Houston, San Antonio, Brovnisville, and New Braunfels. AUSTIN, The capital of the State, is beautifully situated in Travis county, onl the north bank of the Colorado, about 200 miles, by land, from its mouthl, 230 miles west-northwest of Galveston, and about 1420 miles southwest of Washlington. LIatitude 30~ 15’ AN.; longitude 97~ 47’ NW. The city is built on a pllain elevated about 40 feet above the level of the river. It is well built, but owes its importance entirely to its being the seat of the State Government. The Colorado is navigable to Austin during the winter months, which constitute the season of navigation. The city contains the public buildings of the State. The Cap)itol stands on an eminence at the liead of Congress avelnue, the main street of the city. It is a handsome building, an(l is constructed of an oolite, of a soft white color. It is built inll the Ionic style of architecture. The Goverinor’s Houtse is a p)lain edifice of brick, onl anll eminence about 300 yards from the capitol. The Treasury Dgepartrent, Land g Oie, and the Ltlaatie,, lg[iu, and Deaf and Dumb Asylums, are fine buildings. Thle scenery in the vicinity of Austin is much admired. The city became the capital of Texas in 1844. In 1870 the population was 4428. GALVESTON, The largest city and the commercial metropolis of the State, is situated in the county of the same name, on Galveston Island at its eastern end, at the mouth of Galveston Bay. It is 230 miles east-southeast of Austin, and about 200
miles west of Newv Orleans. The island, which separates the bay from the Gulf of Mexico, is about 30 miles 747

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. GALVESTON long and 3 miles broad. The surface is level, and its average elevation above the water is only about 4 feet.

From Galveston City the )ay extends to the northward for 35 miles to the mouth of Trinity River. The harbor of Galveston is the best in the State, and at low tide has from 12 to 14 feet of water on the bar. Within the lharbor the anchorage is ample and secure, and the city is supplied with a series of excellent wharves. Galveston is the seat of a large coasting trade, and has regular communication by steamship with New Orleans and New York, and steamboats navigate the Trinity and San Jacinto rivers, bringing the produce of the interior to the seaboard. There is railway communication with the principal towns of the State, and a railway is in progress which will connect Galveston with New Orleans. The city of Galveston is well built. The dwelling houses are mostly of wood, painted white and surrounded withllarge grounds ornamented with flowers and shrubbery. The streets are broad, straight, cross each other at right angles, and are adorned with trees, flower-gardens, etc. The business portion can boast a number of fine warehouses and stores, and in this respect the city is improving. Galveston contains several good schools, public and private, about 8 churches, a handsome city hall, 2 large hotels, and several newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 13,818. Galveston Island was discovered by La Salle, in 1686, and was 748

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TEXAS. called San Louis. A little later its name was changed to Galveston, after Galvez, a Spanish nobleman. After the close of the war of 1812-15, the famnous “Pirate of the Gulf;” Lafitte, made the island his headquarters. His haunt was broken up in 1821, by Lieutenant Kearney, commanding the United States brig, Enterprise. In 1836 the first settlement was made on the island by persons who fled froom the interior of the State during the Texan Revolution. During the civil war the city was bombarded by the United States fleet stationed in the vicinity, and was captured by the Federal forces, and retaken by the Confederates.

HOUSrl’ON, The second city of the State, is situated in Harris county, on Buffalo Bayou, 45 miles by water from its entrance into Galveston Bay, 200
miles east-southeast of Austin, and 82 miles northwest of Galveston City.

It lies in the midst of a beautiful and fertile country, and is a place of considerable commercial importance. It is the principal entriep6t for a large section of country, and the principal shipping port for the cotton, sugar, and grain of the interior. It has regular steamboat comniunication with Galveston, and is connected with the principal towns of the State by railway. Vast numbers of cattle are raised in the vicinity, and these also find a market in Houston. Houston is built of wood, and has few architectural pretensions. It contains several schools, factories, churches, and two newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the populatiol) was 9382. Houston was laid out by John K. and A. C. Allen, and was settled in 1836. It was for some time the capital of Texas. SAN ANT’ONIO, The tlhird city of the State, is situated in Bexar county, on bo)th sides of the San Antonio River, 110 miles southwest of Austin. The city is sometimes known as San Antonio de Bexar.

It is rapi(lly imnprovi n g, though in so me res pects it is more like a Mexican than an A mieri(c a n city. It contains a UHited States Arsenal, several churches a n d schools, and tw o newspaper offices. Many of the residences built during the past ten years are very handsome. The city has a flourishing trade with Mexico, and is connected by a line of stages with the railroad from Indianola to Victoria. Fort Alamo; in thle vicinity, is one of the most noted places in the history of Texas. San Antonio is 749

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. THE ALAM10, SAN ANTONIO. governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 12,2o56. San Antonio is one of the oldest towns in the Union. It was founded as a mission in 1703, by a company of Franciscan monks, and named in honor of San Francisco de Solano. Ill 1722, its name was changed to San Antonio de Valero. It bore a prominent part in the struggles of the Texans for independence. Ill 1836, a small force of Texans defended the old mission of the Alamo against a Mexican army, and died to the last man. rather than surrender the post entrusted to them. MISCELLANY. CAPTURE OF THE ALAMO. The ” Fall of the Alamo,” like the famous defence of Thermopylie, is an event that will long, live among the heroic incidents of history. At 2 o’clock in the afternoon, February 23d, 1836, Santa Anna, with the 2d division of the Mexican army, marched into the town of San Antonio, hlaving been preceded by an advance detachment the second day preceding. His army numbered several thousand strong, and comprised the choicest troops of his country.

On the same day a regular siege of the Alamo commenced, and lasted eleven days, until the final assault. The Alamo was then garrisoned by 156 men, under Lieutenant-Colonel William Barret Travis, with Colonel James Bowie, second, as is believed, in command. Colonel David Crockett was also withli the garrison, but it is unknown whether hlie had a command, as he had joined it only a few weeks befbre. 750

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TEXAS. Santa Anna immediately demanded a surrender of the garrison, without terms. Thleir reply wNas a shot from the fort. He then raised a blood red fia,u on the chlurchl at Bexar, as a token of vengeance against the rebels, and began an attack, and this by slow a)p)roaclhes. Travis sent off an express with a strong appeal for aid, dcleclaring that lie wouldl nevei surfeinder nor retreat. For many days no marked incidents occurred in the siege. On the 1st of Marchl, 32 gallant men, from Gonzales, under Captain John W. Smith, entered the Alamo, and raised the effective force to 188 men. On the 2d, Travis sent out by a couiricr a last ap p(al, settin, forth fully his determination to remain until lie got rclief or perished in the dclefence. About the same time he also wrote an affecting note to a friend T-lale care of my little boy. If the country should be saved, I may make him a splenldid fortune; but if the country should be lost, and I should perishl, hlie will lave;lothing but the proud recollection that he is the son of a mna w7ho died for his co iztly.” The account of the final assault, with the accompanying description of the Alamo, we take from the “Fall of the Alamo,” a pamphlet by Captain R. M.

Potter, published at San Antonio, in July, 1860. I-e had unusual opportunities for obtainingi all that can be known of the final tragedly, the details of which have not been accurately given, for the reason that not a single defender survived it: Sanlta Anna, after calling a council of war on the 4thl of Marcli, fixed upon the miorning of Sunday, the Gthl, as the time for the final assault. Before narrat ing it, low ever, I must describe the Alamo as it then existed. It had been founded soon after the first settlement of the vicinity, and being originally built as a place of safety for the settlers and their property, in case of Indian hostility, withl sufficient roomi for that purpose, it had neither the strength nor compact ness, nor the arrangement of dominant points, which belong to a regular fortifi cation. “As its area contained betwveen two and three acres, a thousand men would barely have sufficed to man its defences, and before a heavy siege train its walls would soonC have crumbled. “This work was not manned against the assault. According to Santa Anna’s report, 21
guns of various calibres were planted in different parts of the works.

Yoakum, in his description of the armament, mientions but 14. Whichever num)er be correct, hlowever, has but little bearing uponI the merits of the final defence, in which the cannon had little to do. They were in the hands of men unskilled in their use, and owing to the construction of the fort each had a limited range, w-hichi the enemy, in moving up, seem in a measure to have avoided. “It was resolved by Santa Anna that the assault should take place at early dclawn. The order for the attack, which I have read, but have no copy of, was full and precise in its details, and was signed by Brigadier-General Amiador as head of the staff. The besieging force consisted of the b)attalions of Toluca, Jimenes, Mlatamoros, los Zapadtores (or sappers), and another, which I think was that of Guerrero, and the dragoon regiment of Dolores. The infantry was directed at a certain hour, between midnight and dawn, to form at a convenient distance from the fort in four columns of attack and a reserve. Tl:iis disposition was not made by battalions; for the lighlt companies of all of them were incorporated witlh the Zapadores to form the reserve, and some other transpositions may have been made. A certain number of scaling ladders and axes were to be borne vith particular columns. The cavalry were to be stationed at different points around the fortress to cut off fugitives.

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. gaged in the action, it seems that these dispositions were changed on the eve of attack, so far as to combine the five bodies of infantry into three columns of attack. This included the troops designated in the order as the reserve; and the only actual reserve that remained was the cavalry. ” Thle immedi iate command of the assault was entrusted to General Castrillon, a Spaniard by birth and a brilliant soldier. Santa Anna took his station, with a part of his staff and all the regimental bands, at a battery south of thie Alamo and near the old bridge, from which the signal was to be given by a bugle note for the columns to move simultaneously, at double quick time, against different points of the fortress. One, composed mainly of the battalion of Toluca, was to enter thle north breach-the other two to move against the southern side: one to attack the gate of the large area-the other to storm the chapel. By the timing of the signal, it was calculated that the columns would reach the foot of the wall just as it became light enough to operate. “WTllhen the hour came, the batteries and the music were alike silent, and a single blast of the bugle was at first followed by no sound save the rushing tliamp of soldiers. The guns of the fortress soon opened upon them, and then thle bands at the south battery struck up the assassin note of decuello-‘ no quarter.’ But a few and not very effective discharges from the works could be made before the enemy were under tllheml. A sergeant of the Zapadores told me that the column he belonged to encountered but one discharge of grape in moving up, and that passed mostly over the menel’s heads; and it is thought that the worn and weary garrison was not till then fully mustered. The Toluca column arrived first at the foot of the wall, but was not the first to enter the area. A large piece of cannonl at the northwest angle of the area probably commanded the breach. Either this, or the deadly fire of the riflemen at that point, where Travis commanded in person, broughlt the column to a disordered halt, and its leader, Colonel Duque, fell dangerously wounded. But, while this was occurring, one of the other columns entered the area by the gate, or by escalade near it. The defence ol’ the outer walls had now to be abandoned; and the garrison took refuge inll the buildings. It was probably while the enemy were pouring in thlrough the breach that Travis fell at his post; for his body was found beside the gun just referred to. All this passed within a few minutes after the bugle sounded. The early loss of the outer barrier, so thinly manned, was inevital)le; and it was not until the garrison became more concentrated and covered in the inner works, that the main struggle commenced. They were more concentrated as to the space, not as to unity; for there was no communicating between the buildings, nor in all cases between roomrs. There was now no retreating from point to point; and each group of defenders had to fight and die in the den where it was brougtlt to bay. From the doors, windows, and loopholes of the rooms around the area, the crack of the rifle and hiss of the bullet camne fierce and fast: and the enemy fell and recoiled in his first efforts to charge. The gun beside which Travis lay was now turned against the buildings, as were also some others; and shot after shot in quick succession was sent crashing through the doors and barricades of the several rooms. Each ball was followed by a storm of musketry and a charge; and thus room after room was carried at the point of the bayonet, when all within them died fighting to the last. The struggle was made up of a number of separate and desperate combats, often hand to hand, between squads of the garrison and bodies of the enemy. The bloodliest spot about the fortress was the long barrack and the ground in front of it, where the enemy fell in heaps. 752

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TEXAS. ” In the meantime, the turning of Travis’ gun had been imitated by the garri son. A small piece on the roof of the chapel, or one of the other buildings, was turned against the area while the rooms were being stormed. It did more execu tion than any other cannon of the fortress; but after a few effective discharges, all who manned it fell under the enemy’s fire. Crockett had taken refuge in a room of the low barrack near the gate. He either garrisoned it alone, or was left alone by the fall of his companions, when he sallied to meet his fate in the face of the foe, and was shot down. Bowie had been severely hurt by a fall from a platform, and, when the attack came on, was confined to his bed in an upper room of the barrack. He was there killed on his couch, but not without resist ance; for he is said to have shot down with his pistols one or more of the enemy as they entered the chamber. “The church was the last point taken.

The column which moved against it, consisting of the battalion of Jimenes and other troops, was at first repulsed, and took refuge among some old houses outside of the barrier, near its southwest angle, till it was rallied and led on by General Amador. It was soon joined by the rest of the force, and the church was carried by a coup de main. Its inmates, like the rest, fought till the last, and continued to fire from the upper platforms after the enemy occupied the floor of the building. A Mexican officer told of seeing a man shot in the crown of the head in this melee.

During the closing struggle, Lieutenant Dickinson, with his child in his arms, or tied to his back, as some accounts say, leaped from an upper window, and both were killed in the act. Of those he left behind him, the bayonet soon gleaned what the bullet missed; and in the upper part of the church the last defender must have fallen. The morning breeze which received his parting breath probably still fanned his flag above that fabric, ere it was pulled down by the victor. It is a fact not often remembered, that Travis and his men died under the Mexican Federal flag of 1824, instead of the’ Lone Star,’ although the independence of Texas, unknown to them, had been declared four days before. They died for a Republic whose existence they never knew. “The Alamo had fallen. “The action, according to Santa Anna’s report, lasted 30 minutes. It was certainly short, and possibly no longer space passed between the moment when the enemy fronted the breach and that when resistance died out. Somec of the incidents which have to be related separately, no doubt occurred simultaneously, and occupied very little time. ” The account of the assault which Yoakum and others have adopted as authentic, is evidently one which popular tradition has based on conjecture. “A negro boy, belonging to Travis, the wife of Lieutenant Dickinson, Mrs. Alsbury, a native of San Antonio, and another Mexican woman, and two children, were the only inmates of the fortress whose lives were spared. The children were those of the two females whose names are given. Lieutenant Dickinson commanded a gun in the east upper window of the church. His family was probably in one of the two small upper rooms of the front. This will account for his being able to take one of his children to the rear platform while the building was being stormed. A small irrigating canal runs below the window referred to; and his aim, in the desperate attempt at flight, probably was to break his fall by leaping into the water; but the shlower of bullets which greeted him rendered the precaution as needless as it was hopeless. “At the time the outer barriers were carried, a few men leaped from them and 48 753

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. attempted to escape, but were all cut down by the cavalry. Half an hour or more after the action was over, a few men were found concealed in one of the rooms under some mattresses-General Houston, in a letter of the 11th, says as many as seven; but I have generally heard them spoken of as only three or four. The officer to whom they were first reported entreated Santa Anna to spare their lives; but he was sternly rebuked and the men ordered to be shot, which was done. Owing to the hurried and confused manner in which the mandate was obeyed, a Mexican soldier was accidentally killed with them. “Castrillon was the soul of the assault. Santa Anna remained at the south battery with the music of the whole army and a part of his staff, till he supposed the place was nearly mastered, when he moved up with that escort toward the Alamo; but returned again on being greeted by a few rifle balls from the upper windows of the church. He, however, entered the area toward the close of the scene, and directed some of the last details of the butchery. “The five infantry corps that formed the attacking force, according to the data already referred to, amounted to about 2500 men. The number of Mexican wounded, according to various accounts, largely exceeded that of the killed; and the estimates made of both by intelligent men who were in the action, and whose candor I think could be relied on, rated their loss at from 150 to 200 killed, and from 300 to 400 wounded. The real loss of the assailants in killed and wounded probably did not differ nmuch from 500 men. General Bradburn was of opinion that 300 men in the action were lost to the service, counting with the killed those who died of wounds or were permanently disabled. This agrees with the other most reliable estimates.

Now, if 500 men or more were bullet-stricken in half an hour, by 180 or less, it was a rapidity of bloodshed almost unexampled, and needs no exaggeration. “Of the foregoing details, which do not refer to documentary authority, I obtained many from General Bradburn, who arrived at San Antonio a few days after the action, and gathered them from officers who were in it. A few I had through a friend from General Amador. Others again I received from three intelligent sergeants, who were men of fair education, and I think truthful. One of them, Sergeant Becero, of the battalion of Matamoras, who was captured at San Jacinto, was for several years my servant in Texas. From men of their class I could generally get more candid statements, as to loss and other matters, than from commissioned officers. I have also gathered some minor particulars from local tradition preserved among the residents of this town. When most of the details thus learned were acquired, I had not seen the locality; and hence I had to locate some of the occurences by inference; which I have done carefully and I think correctly. “The stranger will naturally inquire,’ Where lie the heroes of the Alamo?’ and Texas can only reply by a silent blush. A few hours after the action, the bodies of the slaughtered garrison were gathered up by the victors, laid in three piles, mingled with fuel, and burned. On the 25th of February, near a year after, their bones and ashes were collected, placed in a coffin, and interred with due solemnity, and with military honors, by Colonel Seguin and his command. The place of burial was in what was then a peach orchard outside the town, a few hundred yards from the Alamo. It is now a large enclosed lot in the midst of the Alamo suburb.” 754

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PART V. THE WESTERN STATES.

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I

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JUNE - - v IRGISNIA. Area,…………..23,000 Square Miles. Population in 1860………376,688 Population in 1870………442,014 THE State of West Virginia (excluding the narrow strip in the northwest, called the “Pan-handle”) lies between 37~ 6’ and 39~ 44’ N. latitude, and between 77~

40’ and 82~ 35’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Pennsylvania and Maryland, on the southeast by Virginia, on the southwest by Virginia and Kentucky, and on the northwest by Ohio. It is very irregular in shape.

TOPOGRAPHY. The surface is generally hilly. The northeast part of the State is crossed by the Alleghany Mountains, west of which are the Greenbrier, Cheat Mountains, and other eminences, supposed to be a prolongation of the Cumberland Mountains. The valley between these ranges and the Alleghanies is elevated to a level of from 1200 to 2000 feet above the level of the sea. The scenery of the State is grand and beautiful. The celebrated pass at Harper’s Ferry lies in this State, and is but the beginning of a series of mountain views, unsurpassed in grandeur by any in the world. “The scenery at Harper’s Ferry is, perhaps, the most singularly picturesque in America. To attain the view here given, it was necessary to climb the Blue Ridge by a narrow winding path immediately above the bank of the Potomac. The view from this lofty summit amply repays the fatigue incurred by its ascent. The junction of the two rivers is immediately beneath the spectator’s feet; and his delighted 757 WAEST

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. HAPPER’S FERIIY. eye, resting first upon the beautiful and thriving village of Harper’s Ferry, wanders over the wide and woody plains, extending to the Alleghany Mountains. President Jefferson, who has given the name to a beautiful rock immediately above the village, has left a powerful description of the scenery of Harper’s Ferry. He says:‘The passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge, is, perhaps, one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land; on your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of a mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; in the moment of their junction, they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time; that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge of mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that, continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on 758

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WEST VIRGINIA. each hand, particularly on the Shenandoah-the evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the distant finishing which nature has given to the picture, is of a very different character; it is a true contrast to the foreground; it is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous; for the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the clefts a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult warring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way, too, the road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over youl, and within about twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic; yet here, as in the neighborhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.’ There are many points of view from which the scenery appears romantic and beautiful. Among these, that seen from Jefferson’s Rock, which is on a hill overhanging the town, is very fine. The top of this rock is fiat, and nearly twelve feet square; its base, which does not exceed five feet in width, rests upon the top of a larger rock; and its height is about five feet. The whole mass is so nicely balanced, that the application of a small force will cause it to vibrate considerably. On this rock once reposed another rock, on which Mr.

Jefferson, during a visit to this place, inscribed his name. In the extraordinary political excitement of 1798-9, between the federal and the democratic parties, a Captain Henry, who was stationed here with, some United States troops, at the head of a band of his men hurled off the apex of this rock. At Harper’s Ferry, on the Maryland side, there is said to be a wonderful likeness of Washington in the stupendous rocks which overhang the Potomac. The nose, lips, and chin are admirably formed, and bear the semblance of studied art. The forehead is obscure; yet there is sufficient to give the nmind a just idea of the noble form and dignified carriage, with the mildness of feature, which the original possessed so preeminently as to inspire all men with a profound reverence towards thlis august personage.” 759

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Ohio River, already described, washes the entire northwestern shore of the State. The cities of Wheeling and Parkersburg lie on its banks. Its scenery is beautiful, but tame. It receives the waters of the principal rivers of the State. These are the Little and Great Kanawha, the Guyanldotte, and Big Sandy, which last separates the State from Kentucky. The Monongahela, one of the branches of the Ohio, rises in the cenitre of this State, and flows north into Pennsylvania. The Potomac also rises in the northeastern part and separates WVest Virginia from Maryland. The Great Kanawha is the principal river, lying for the greater part within the State. It rises in Ashe county, North Carolina, and flows northwest through Virginia and West Virginia into the Ohio, at Point Pleasant. Before entering WVest Virginia it is known as New River.

It breaks through the Alleghany and Blue Ridge ranges, and in Fayette county, in this State, is joined by its principal tributary, the Gauley.

Two miles below the mouth of the Gauley, the Kanawha, now 500 yards wide, falls over a ledge of rocks 25 feet high. These falls are very picturesque, and are at the head of the navigation of the stream. The scenery, especially along the New River, is very beautiful. The Kanawha is 400 miles long, and navigable for 100 miles. The Monongahela is navigable at high water from Pittsburg, Pa., to Fairmont in this State. CLIMATE. The climate in West Virginia is invigorating and delightful. The summers are cool and pleasant, yet hot enough for the crops, and the winters though severe are steady and not unpleasant. In healthfulness, the State will compare favorably with any part of the Union. MINERALS. A recent report of the Bureau of Agriculture thus describes the minerals of the State: “The minerals of Wrest Virginia are too well known for particular comment.

Nearly all the counties in the State contain coal, iron, and other minerals; coal, in veins suitable for working, is found in greatest abundance along the banks of the Upper Ohio, in the hills along the course of the Monongahela and its branches, in the central counties of the State, in the Piedmont region east of the summit, in the Kanawha valley, and in all the counties south of that river. The coal 160

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WEST VIRGINIA. lands of Guyandotte, being bituminous, cannel, and splint varieties, cover nine-tenths of the Guyandotte valley, in horizontal strata in the hills, from three to eleven feet thick, aggregating in some hills, twenty five or thirty feet. Coal mining in ICanawha is represented as paying well. The inducements for employing capital under practical super vision is claimed to be very flattering, while complaint is made of the visionary character of recent coal and oil operations. Of Brooke, our correspondent says:-‘ The most valuable mineral, however, is bitulminous coal, accessible by level adits over the greater part of the county. The stratum is four to five feet thick. In the hills, fronting on the Ohio River, it is about 200 feet above the river level, and the coal is let down by railways to boats for shipment. Off from the river it is mined merely for home consumption. As soon as railways are made up the valleys, an immense supply can be obtained. About 300 feet beneath the river level, there is another stratum, some six or seven feet in thickness, of superior coal, which has been mnined by shafts or galleries at Steubenville, and at Rust Run, on the opposite side of the river. A company was formed a short time ago to mine this coal at Wellsburg, our county seat, but they have as yet failed to commence. This coal is almost wholly free from sulphur, and on that account admirably fitted for working iron.’ Iron ore, of various descriptions, and of superior quality, abounds in many of the counties. It is workled in a few localities on the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, but development of the iron of the State can scarcely be said to have commnenced. Other minerals are reported in every section of the State.

Some of the best timber of the country is to be found here, of all the different kinds of oaks, black walnut, hickory, poplar, cherry, etc. A considerable trade in timber is already in progress in the river counties, and I)oat-building is engaged in to some extent. The soil is generally productive, yielding well all farm products.” SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil of the State is excellent as a general rule. The river bottoms and the mountain valleys are the best lands, but the hillsides are fertile, also, and a(dmiral)ly suited for grazing. In 1869, there were about 3,000,000 acres of improved land in the State, and about 7,000,000 acres of unimproved land. The cash value of farms was about $120,000,000.

Farming implements and machinery amounted to about $2,500,000 in value.

The value of domestic animals was $17,088,568. ,61

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The principal products for the same year were: Bushels of wheat,……… ” rye,……….. ” oats,…………. “
buckwheat,……….. Indian corn,……… ” barley,………… ” Irish potatoes,……. Pounds of tobacco (estimated)….., Tons of hay,………….. MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. Manufactures are growing in importance in the State. Wheeling, the principal city, is largely engaged in the manufacture of iron and glass. The State has no foreign commerce, but carries on an extensive trade along the Ohio River and its tributaries. Coa], iron, and glass are the principal articles of export.

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, there were 364 miles of completed railroads in West Virginia, constructed at a cost of $25,000,000. The great Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, which connects Wheeling with Baltimore, and its branch, the Northwestern Virginia Railroad, pass through the northern and northwestern counties of the State. The Hemrpfield Railroad will connect Wheeling with Washington, Pennsylvania, and is to be extended to the Pennsylvania Central Railroad at Greensburg in that State. The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway is in progress from Covington to the Ohio River, and will connect its eastern terminus with the Central Railroad of.Virginia. EDUCATION. Bethany College, in Brooke county, is the principal institution of the State. It is under the care of the Campbelite Church. The State Superintendent of Free Schools has the general supervision of the system of public instruction in the State. He makes an annual report of the condition of the schools to the Legislature. Each county is in charge of a County Superintendent, elected for two years. He is required by law to visit the schools and examnine the teachers.at least once in six months. He reports annually to the State Superin 762 2,562,000

94,000 2,100,000 300,000 8,100,000 62,000 850,000 2,000,000 150,000

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WEST VIRGINIA. telldent. The immediate control of the schools is vested in a Board of Education in each township. Each board consists of three Commissioners, elected for three years, and the clerk of the township.

They report to the County Superintendent. Three normal schools have been established-one at Guyandotte, Cabell county; one at West Liberty, Ohio county; and one at Fairrmont, Marion county. The school at West Liberty has been opened, and has an attendance of 90 pupils. An Agricultural College, established by the State at Morgantown, in Monongalia county, was opened in June, 1867. It is provided with excellent buildings and a farm of 25 acres. In 1870, there were 2113 schoolhouses in the State. The annual attendance was 87,330. The number of children of school age was 162,430. The permanent school fund, of which only the interest can be used, amounts to $254,860. The total sum received for school purposes, during the year, amounted to $562,761. The value of school property in 48
counties was $1,057,473. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Penitentiary is located at Moundsville, and is in course of construction, but sufficiently advanced to accommodate the convicts, who in November, 1870, numbered 114.

The Hiospitalfor the Insane is at Weston, in Lewis county. It is not yet finished, but is sufficiently advanced to accommodate its patients, who in 1870 numbered 207. The buildings, when completed, will be ample and very handsome. They were begun by the old State of Virginia before the war. The Deaf, Duumb, and Blind Asylum of West Viryinia is situated at Romney, and was opened in 1870. It is too small to accommodate the patients. FINANCES.

The State has no debt of its own, and it is not yet decided whether it will assume any share of the debt of the old State of Virginia. The receipts of the treasury for the fiscal year ending September 30, 1870, were $567,321; and the expenditures $420,012. On the 1st of October, 1869, there was a cash balance in the treasury of $66,167, making the balance on October 1, 1870, $213,476. There were, in 1868, in this State 5 State banks, with a capital of $570,200, and 15 National banks, with a capital of $2,216,400. 763

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of the State was ratified by the people in May, 1862. Every white mnale citizen, 21 years old, who has resided in the State one year, and in the county thirty days, is entitled to vote at the elections. Paupers, lunatics, and convicts, are not allowed to vote. Tile Government is vested in a Governor, Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate (of 22 members, elected for two years) and a House of Delegates (of 51 members, elected for one year), all elected by the people. The State officers are chosen for two years. The Legislature meets every year on the third Tuesday in January, and sits for 45 days only, unless twothirds of both houses agree to prolong the session. The Courts of the State are, the Court of Appeals, Circuit Courts, and County Courts.

The Supreme Court of Appeals consists of 3 judges, elected by the people for 12 years, one judge retiring every 4 years. The seat of Government is located at Charleston, in Kanawha county. The State is divided into 53
counties. HISTORY. This State formed a part of Virginia until the outbreak of the late war. Being unwilling to be forced out of the Union by the action of the eastern counties, the people of the western district met at Wheeling in convention, on the Ilth of June, 1861, and organized a State Government. Delegates from 40 counties were present. On the 26th of November, 1861, another Convention met at Wheeling and adopted a State Constitution for the new State of West Virginia. This was ratified by the people on the 3d of May, 1862, but Congress insisted on the adoption of certain amendments to the Constitution. These changes were made by the Convention, the amendments sustained by a vote of the people, and the new State was admitted into the Union on the 20th of June, 1863. During the war the State was repeatedly invaded by the Confederates, and those regions bordering on the old State of Virginia put to considerable loss.

The Kanawha Valley was the scene of several severe battles, but towards the close of the war the State was almost exempt from hostilities. 764

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WEST VIRGINIA. The people were much divided in sentiment, the Union element preponderating, however. A large number of men enlisted in the Confederate army, and the State furnished 31,884 troops to the United States army. CITIES AND TOWNS. The principal cities and towns are, Wheeling, Parkersburg, Martinsburg, Charleston, Lewisburg, Clarksburg, Fairmont, Grafton, and Wellsburg. CHARLESTON. The capital of the State, is situated in IKanawha county, on the north bank of the Kanawha River, 60
miles from its mouth, and at its confluence with the Elk River, and about 150 miles S.S.W. of Wheeling. The river here is about 300 yards wide, and is navigable for small steamers during the entire year. These filrnish the only means of communication with Wheeling and Parkersburg, the principal cities of the State. Charleston will soon be connected with Eastern Virginia by the Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, now in course of construction. Charleston is a pretty country town, containing the county buildings, a newspaper office, 3 or 4 churches, and several schools. Its only importance is due to its being the capital of the State. Being difficult of access, it is believed that the seat of Government will soon be removed to some more convenient town. In 1870 the population was 3162.

Just above Charleston are the famous Kanawha Salt Works, which extend on both sides of the river for about 15 miles. Previous to the civil war they gave employment to about 3000 persons, and produced large quantities of salt annually. During the civil war they were greatly injured. The entire Kanawba region is rich in coal, and abounds in fine waterpower. Its proximity to the iron regions of the two Virginias gives it peculiar advantages for manufacturing, which will no doubt be improved in the course of a few years. WHEELING, The commercial and political metropolis of West Virginia, and the first capital of the State, is situated in Ohio county, on the east bank of the Ohio River, and on both sides of Wheeling Creek, at the mouth of the latter stream, 92 miles below Pitts)burg, 365
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TiE GREAT R,EPUBLIC. WIIEJELING. cinnati, and 420 nliles west of WMashington l)y the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. Latitude 40~ 7’ N.; longitude 80~ 42’ W. The city is built along a narrow alluvial tract extending from the river to a range of hills less than a mile from the water, and running parallel with it. It is about 2 miles in length, with an average breadth of half a mile. It is regularly laid out, with moderately wide streets exossing each other at right angles, and though it contains a number of handsome buildings, public and private, is but indifferently built as a whole. The streets are tolerably well paved, and some of them ;are well shaded with handsome trees. The houses are mostly of brick, :and anearly the whole of those recently erected are of this material. The principal public buildings are, the United States Custom House (in which is located the Post Office), a handsome granite edifice, and the Cotter Iou.se. The city contains 24 churches, some of which would do credit to any city; an efficient hospital; 7 public schools, and several excellent private schools, its female seminaries being among the best in the country; a free library of 35,000 volumes; 2 hotels, and 4
newspaper offices. Its principal points are connected by a street railway, which is also,extended across the Ohio to the town of Bridgeport, in the 766

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WEST VIRGINIA. State of Ohio; it is lighted with gas, is supplied with pure water from the Ohio River, and is provided with a steam fire department, and an efficient police force. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 19,282. Wheeling lies in the midst of one of the loveliest portions of the Ohio Valley, and is destined to become a place of very great importance. It is connected with Baltimore and the East by the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. A railway on the opposite side of the river connects it with Pittsburg and Cleveland, and another on the same side with Columbus, Cincinnati and all parts of the West. The Ohio is navigable for steamers during the greater part of the year, and affords water communication with all parts of the Mississippi Valley. The city is engaged in a heavy river trade. a number of steamboats being owned in Wheeling. The prosperity of the city is due almost entirely to its manufactures. The mills by which it is surrounded are filled with coal, which lies but a few feet below the surface. The large mills mine their own coal at a moderate cost, many of the “coal banks,” as they are called, lying within the city limits. Dr. Reeves, of Wheeling, writing in 1870, thus speaks of the manufactures of the city: “In the manufacture of iron and nails, within the limits of the city, 2295 persons are employed; of these tile principal operatives are boilers and their helpers, 620; blacksmiths, 80; nailers, 127; nailfeeders, 385. Boilers work at the furnaces by turns of ten hours, both day and night, and prepare the metal for the rolls, where it is made into bars and nail sheeting. This class of laborers is generally composed of Germans and Irish-the most of them foreign born, and, as a rule, are a hardy set of men. “The nail mills of Wheeling-the Riverside Iron Works, Belmont, La Belle, and Wheeling Iron and Nail Works, including the two mills at Benwood and Bellaire, which are four miles distant from Wheeling, cut 17,350 kegs of nails per week, or about 902,200 kegs annually, at an average value of $4,059,900. Besides these, and other rolling mills for the manufacture of railroad bar rod, hammer iron, sheet iron, bridge iron, bolts, etc., there are two spike mills which turn out annually, for railroad and boat building purposes, from 50,000 to 60,000 kegs. The toughness of Wheeling nails, and therefore their superiority to nails made at other mills, is generally conceded. The Whitaker Mills, situated on the bank of Wheeling Creek, engage principally in the manufacture of railroad iron, spikes, 767

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. sheet iron, etc., and are capable of rolling and finishing 60 tolls of railroad bars per day. Fifty miles of the rails of the great Pacific road were made at these mills. The Norway Manufacturing, Com pany’s mills, situated in South Wheeling, are supplied with mnacbin ery of the most improved invention, and are capable of doing all kinds of wrought iron bridge work. A part of the grand railway superstructure soon to span the Missouri at St. Charles, near St. Louis, is now going through these mills, which not only proves their capacity, but as well their comnpetitive ability. The hinge and tack factories are extensive establishments, and because of the superior manufacture of their stocks, they are rapidly extending their trade in all directions. The founderies and machine shops give enmployment to 475 persons, who are remarkable for their general good health, notwithstanding their frequent excesses in eating and drinking. There are eight founderies in the city. Three or four of these establishments are principally engaged in duplicating the patterns of machinery employed in the different iron and nail mills, and they are also as well prepared to make original patterns and single castings of any shape and for any purpose, weighing from one pound to fifteen tonls. Recently a new item of business-the making of iron fronts of the most beautiful and substantial patterns, for business houseshas come into existence. “The stove market is entirely supplied from home founderies, which turn out annually thousands of different patterns, both for cooking and heating purposes. In this particular line of trade, business is constantly on the increase, for two rea’ons, mainly: the truly excellent patterns made, and the exceedingly low price at which they are sold. Besides, it has been ascertained that Wheeling stoves withstand greater and longer heat without burning than many patterns of Eastern and Northern manufacture. “There are eight machine shops in the city. Of these the Baltimore and Ohio are the most extensive, and command the labor of from 60 to 120 men, both day and night. In each of the other shlops, however, equally skilled machinists are busily employed the year round making steamn-engines, boilers, slhafting, mnill work, steamboat irons, etc., etc. In a word, anything in the way of Machinery can be made at the Wheeling shops as well and at as low price as it can be furnished from the competing shops of Pittsburg and Cincinnati. “THE j IANUFACTURE OF

GLASS.-In this department there are six extensive establishments-one of which is said to be the largest 768

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WEST VIRGINIA. of the kind in the United States-which employ 860 persons of both sexes, men and women, l)oys and girls. Many articles of Wheeling glass manufacture find ready sale in the markets of other cities-from lMaine to California; and it is, indeed(l, remarkable that New Englaud sand Call be shipped to Wheeling, where it is made into the finest flint glass wares, and then these sent to Baltimore, Philadelphia, New York and Boston, for sale at even smaller prices than their own man ufacturers can produce like articles. Some idea may be had of the extent of the business done, when it is mentioned that to one house alone, the annual cost of packages, boxes, barrels, etc., for shipment of wares, is $15,000; and that during the past three months, over 16,000 second-hand barrels have been used at a cost of $5000. The superior quality of Wheelilng window glass is generally acknowledged. Several of the finer grades, usually cut into large panes, closely resemble the best specimens of imported plate glass. “Besides the manufacture of iron, nails and glass, there are several establishments which are of very great importance, both on account of the amount of capital invested, and the numberof skilled laborers they employ. First in importance among these, perhaps, are the two extensive ship-yards-one in North Wheeling, the other in South AVheeling. Many firstclass boats are built at these yards, and furnished with the most improved machinery fromnt Wheeling shops. There are also several extensive wagon and carriage manufactories in the citv. In these establishments a very large capital is invested. Their trade is principally with the South, and the supply of their manufactures scarcely equals the demand. The woollen factory is a busy institution, and supplies the home and other markets with many excellent fabrics.” There are about 34 establishments engaged in the manufacture of the articles referred to. Besides these, flour, white lead, and silk are also produced here.. The Ohio is crossed at Wheeling by a beautiful wire suspension bridge, which is one of the largest in the world, with a span of 1010 feet. The height of the towers is 153 feet above low-water mark, and 60 feet above the abutments. The bridge is supported by four wire cables, each 1380 feet in length, and 8
inches in diameter. The cost of the bridge was $210,000 in gold. It extends from Wheeling proper to Zanes’ Island, now the 7th ward of the city of Wheeling. On the western side of the island, a covered wooden bridge connects it with the town of Bridgeport in Ohio. 49 769

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Wheeling was originally settled in 1769 by Colonel Ebenezer Zane, his brothers Silas and Jonathan, and a number of others.

They chose the site of the present city for their new home, and the next spring, brought out their families. The name of the city is derived from an Indian word-Weeling-signifying theplace of a head. Some years before the settlement a party of whites descending the Ohio, stopped at the mouth of the creek. They were murdered by the Indians, who cut off the head of one of the victims, and placed it on a pole with the face to the river, and called the spot Weeling. Soon after the settlement a fort was built near the mouth of the creek. In September, 1777, this Fort (Henry) was besieged by a force of about 500 Indian warriors, led by the notorious renegade Simon Girty. The garrison, only 42 strong, repulsed the attack, until the arrival of a reinforcement of about 50 men, when the savages raised the siege and retreated. After the close of the Revolution the city grew slowly. The introduction of steam navigation on the Ohio, gave it an impetus, and it soon entered upon its manufacturing career, which can be limited only by the amount of capital available to its citizens. After the secession of Virginia, and the separation fronm the old State, it was made the capital of West Virginia, and continued to be the seat of Government until the removal of the capital to Charleston, in 1870. PARKERSBURG, The second city of the State, is situated in Wood county, on the east bank of the Ohio River, at the mouth of the Little Kanavwha, 100 miles below Wheeling, and about 400 miles by railway west of Washington. It is well laid out, and is neatly built. It contains a Court House, about 5
churches, several good schools, 3 newspaper offices, and several steam mills. It is the western terminus of the LNorthwestern Virginia railway, a branch of the BaltimDore and Ohio railway. The Ohio River is here crossed by a fine railway bridge, by means of which close connections are made with the railways leading to Cincinnati, etc. The city is also actively engaged in the river trade. The valley of the Little Kanawhla abounds in oil wells, many of which are very profitable. Just below Parkersburg is the long celebrated Blannerhasset’s Island. Good turnpike roads extend from Parkersburg to Winchester and Staunton, in Eastern Virginia. In 1870, the population of Parkersburg was 5546. 770

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WEST VIRGINIA. MISCELLANY. BORDER LIFE. Dodridge, in his “Notes on Western Virginia,” gives the following account )t’ the life led by the settlers of that region: The settlements on this side of the mountains commenced along thile Monongahela, and between that river and the Laurel ridge, in the year 1772. In the succeeding year they reached the Ohio River. The greater number of the first settlers came from the upper parts of the then colonies of Maryland and Virginia. Braddock’s trail, as it was called, was the route by which the greater number of them crossed the mountains. A less number of them came by the way of Bedford and Fort Ligonier. They effected their removals on horses furnished with pack-saddles. This was the more easily done, as but few of these early adventurers into the wilderness were encumbered with much baggage. Land was the object which invited the greater number of these people to cross the mountain, for, as the saying then was, “It was to be had here for taking up;’ that is, building a cabin and raising a crop of grain, however small, of any kind, entitled the occupant to 400 acres of land, and a pre-emption right to 1000 acres more adjoining, to be secured by a land-office warrant. This right was to take effect if there happened to be so much vacant land, or any part thereof, adjoining the tract secured by the settlement right. At an early period the Government of Virginia appointed three commissioners to give certificates of settlement rights. These certificates, together with the surveyor’s plat, were sent to the land-office of the State, where they lay six months, to await any caveat which might be offered. If none was offered, the patent then issued. There was, at an early period of our settlements, an inferior kind of land title, denominated a “tomahawk righlt,” which was made by deadening a few trees near the head of a spring, and marking the bark of some one or more of them with the initials of the name of the person who made the improvement. I remember having seen a number of those “tomahawk rights” when a boy. For a long time many of them bore the namnes of those who made them. I have no knowledg,e of the efficacy of the tomahawk improvement, or whether it conferred any right whatever, unless followed by an actual settlement. These rights, however, were often bought and sold. Those who wished to make settlements on their favorite tracts of land, bought up the tomahawk improvements, rather than enter into quarrels with those who had made them. Other improvers of the land, with a view to actual settlement, and who happened to be stout veteran fellows, took a very different course from that of purchasing the “tolmahawk righlts.” AWhen annoyed by the claimants under those rights, they deliberately cut a few good lhickories, and gave them what was called in those days a “laced jacket,” that is, a sound whipping. Some of the early settlers took the precaution to come over the mountains in the spring, leaving their families behind to raise a crop of corn, and then return and bring them out in the fall. This I should think was the better way. Others, especially those whose families were small, broughlt them with them in the spring. My father took the latter course. His family was but small, and lihe 771

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. brought them all with him. Tile Indian meal which he broulght over the miountain was expended six weeks too soon, so that for that length of tinle we had to live without bread. The lean venison and the breast of wild turkeys we were taught to call bread. The flesh of the bear was denominated mieat. This artifice did not succeed very well. After living in this way for some time, we became sickly, the stomach seemed to be always empty and tormented with a sense of hlunger. I remember how narrowly the children watched the growth of the potato tops, pumpkin and squash vines, hoping from day to day to get solnetlingo to answer in the place of bread. How delicious was the taste of the young potatoes when we got them! What a jubilee, when we were permitted to pull the young corn tor roasting ears. Still more so, when it had acquired sufficient hardness to be made into jonny-cakes by the aid of a tin grater. We then became healthy, vigorous, and contented with our situation, poor as it was. -Ny father, with a small number of his neighbors, made their settlements in the spring of 1773. Though they were in a poor and destitute situation, they nevertheless lived in peace; but their tranquillity was not of long continuance.‘Thlose most atrocious murders of the peaceable, inoffensive Indians, at Captina and Yellow Creek, brought on the war of Lord Dunmore, in thec spring of the year 1774. Our little settlement then broke up. The women and children were removed to Morris’s Fort, in Sandy Creek glade, some distance to the east of Uniontown. The fort consisted of an assemblage of small lhovels, situated on the margin of a large and noxious marsh, the effluvia of which gave the mnost of the women and children the fever and ague. The mnen were compelled by necessity to return home, and risk the tomahawk and scalping-knife of the Indians, in raising corn to keep their families from starvation the succeeding winter. Those sufferings, dangers, and losses, were the tribute we had to pay to that thirst for blood which actuated those veteran murderers who broughlt the war upon us. The memory of the sufferers in this war, as.well as that of their descendants, still looks back upon them withn regret and abhorrence, and( the page of history will consign their names to posterity with the full weight of infamy they deserve. MIy father, like many others, believed that, having secured his legal allotment, the rest of the country belonged of right to those who chose to settle in it. There was a piece of vacant land adjoining his tract, amounting to al)out 200 acres. To this tract of land he had the pre-emption right, and accordingly secured it by warrant; but his conscience would not permit him to retain it in his family; lhe therefore gave it to an apprentice lad whom he had raised in his house.

This lad sold it to an uncle of mine for a cow and a calf, and a wool l]it. Owing to the equal distribution of real property directed by our land laws, and the sterling integrity of our forefathers in their ol)servance of them, we hlave no districts of “sold land,” as it is called, that is, large tracts of land in the hands of individuals, or companies, who neither sell nor improve them. as is the case in Lower Canada and the northwestern part of Pennsylvania. These unsettled tracts make huge blanks in the population of the country where they exist. The division-lines between those -whose lands adjoined were generally made in an amicable manner, before any survey of them was made, by the parties concerned. In doing this, they were guided mainly by the tops of ridges and watercourses, but particularly the fornmer. Hence the greater number of farms in the western parts of Pennsylvania and Virginia bear a striking resemlblance to an amphitheatre. The buildings occupy a low situation, and the tops of the 77.)

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WEST VIRGINIA. surrounding hills are the boundaries of the tract to which the falnily mansion belongs. Our forefathers were fond of farms of this description, because, as they said, they were attended with this convenience, “that everything comes to the house down lhill.”’ -Most of the early settlers considered their land as of little value, from an apprehension that after a few years’ cultivation it would lose its fertility, at least for a long time. I have often heard them say that such a field would bea’ so many crops, and another so many more or less than that. The ground of this belief concerningi the short-lived fertility of the land in this country, was the poverty of a great proportion of the land in the lower parts of Maryland and Virginia, which, after producing a few crops, became unfit for use, and was thrown out into commons. Mly reader will naturally ask where were their mills for grinding grain? Where their tanneries for making leather? Where their smithl-shops for making and repairing their farmninig utensils? Who were their carpenters, tailors, cabinet workmen, shoemakers, and weavers? Tlhe answer is, those manufacturers did not exist, nor had they any tradesmen who were professedly such. Every family was under the necessity of doing everything for themselves as well as they could. The hlonmony-block and hand-mills were in use in most of our houses. The first was made of a large block of wood about 3 feet long, with an excavation burned in one end, wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, so that the action of the pestle on the bottom threw the corn up to the sides towards the top of it, from whlence it continually fell down into the centre. In consequence of this movement, the whole mass of the glain was pretty equally subjected to the strokes of the pestle. In the fall of the year, while the Indian corn was soft, the block and pestle did very well for making meal fo)r jonny-cake and mushl, but were rather slow when the corn became hard. The sweep was sometimes used to lessen the toil of pounding grain into meal. This was a pole of some springy elastic wood, 30 feet long or more; the butt end was placed under the side of a house, or a la,rge stump. This pole was supported by two forks, placed about one-third of its length fiom the butt end, so as to elevate the small end about 15 feet from the ground; to this was attached, by a large mortise, a piece of a sapling, about 5 or 6 inches in diameter, and 8 or 10 feet long. The lower end of this was shaped so as to answer for a pestle. A pin of wood was put through it at a proper height, so that two persons could work at the sweep at once. This simiple machine very much lessened the labl)or, and expedited the work. I remember that, when a boy, I put up an excellent sweep at my fatlter’s. It was made of a sugar-tree sapling. It was kept going almost constantly, from morning till night, by our neighbors for several weeks. In the Greenbrier country, where they had a number of saltpetle caves, the first settlers made plenty of excellent gunpowder by Inmeans of those sweeps and mortars. A machline still more simple than the mortar and pestle was used tor making meal, while the corn was too soft to be beaten. It was called a grater. This was a hlalt-circular piece of tin, perforated with a punch from the concave side, and nailed by its edges to a block of wood. The ears of corn were rubbed on the rough eldges of the holes, while the meal fell through them on the board or block to which the grater was nailed, which, being in a slanting direction, discharged the meal into a cloth or bowl placed for its reception. Titis, to be sure, was a slow way of making meal, but necessity has no law. 7 -6 3

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The hand-mill was better than the mortar and grater.

It was made of two circular stones, the lowest of which was called the bedstone, the upper one the runner. These were placed in a hoop, with a spout for discharging the meal. A staff was let into a hole in the upper surface of the runner, near the outer edge, and its upper end through a hole in a board fastened to a joist above, so that two persons could be employed in turning the mill at the same time. The grain was put into the opening ill the runner by hand. These mills are still in use in Palestinie, the ancient country of the Jews. To a mill of this sort our Saviour alluded, when, with reference to the destruction of Jerusalem, he said: “Two women shall be grinding at a mill, the one shall be taken and the other left.” This mill is much preferable to that used at present in Upper Egypt for making the dhoura bread. It is a smooth stone, placed on an inclined plane, upon which the grain is spread, which is made into meal by rubbing another stone up and down upon it. Our first water-mills were of that description denominated tub-mills. It consists of a perpendicular shaft, to the lower end of which a horizontal wheel of about 4 or;) feet in diameter is attached; the upper end passes through the bedstone, and carries the runner after the manner of a trundleliead. These mills were built with very little expense, and many of them answered the purpose very well. Instead of bolting cloths, sifters were in general use. They were made of deerskins, in a state of parchment, stretched over a hoop, and perforated with a hot wire. Our clothing was all of domestic manufacture.

We had no other resource for clothing, and this indeed was a poor one. The crops of flax often failed, and the sheep were destroyed by the wolves.

Linsey, which is made of flax and woolthe former the chain, the latter the filling-was the warmest and most substantial cloth we could make. Almost every house contained a loom, and almost every woman was a weaver. Every family tanned their own leather. The tan-vat was a large trough sunk to the upper edge in the ground. A quantity of bark was easily obtained every spring in clearing and fencing land. This, after drying, was brought in, and in wet days was shaved and pounded on a block of wood, with an axe or mallet. Ashes were used in place of lime, for taking off the hair. Bears’

oil, hlogs’ lard, and tallow, answered the place of fish oil. The leather, to be sure, was coarse.; but it was substantially good. The operation of currying was performed by a drawing-knife, with its edge turned, after the manner of a currying-knife. The blacking for the leather was made of soot and hlogs’ lard. Almost every family contained its own tailors and shoemakers. Those who could not make shoes, could make shoepacks. These, like moccasins, were made of a single piece of leather, with the exception of a tongue-piece on the top of the foot. This was about 2 inches broad, and circular at the lower end. To this the main piece of leather was sewed with a gathering stitch. The seam behind was like that of a moccasin. To the shoepack a sole was sometimes added. The women did the tailor work.

They could all cut out and make hlunting-shirts, leggins, and drawers. The state of society which existed in our country at an early period of its settlement, was well calculated to call into action every native mechanical genius. This happened in this country. There was in almost every neighborhood some one, whose natural ingenuity enabled him to do many things for himself and his neighbors, far above what could have been reasonably expected. With the few 774

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WEST VIRGINIA. tools which they brought with them into the country, they certainly performed wonders. Their plows, harrows with wooden teethl, and sleds, were in many instances well made. Their cooper-ware, which comprehended everything for holding milk and water, was generally pretty well executed. The cedar-ware, by having alternately a white and red stave, was then thought beautiful; many of their puncheon floors were very neat, their joints close, and the top even and smooth. Their looms, although hleavy, did very well. Those who could not exercise these mechanic arts, were under the necessity of giving labor or barter to their neighbors in exchange for the use of them, so far as their necessities required. For a long time after the first settlement of this country, the inhabitants in general married young. There was no distinction of rank, and very little of fortune. On these accounts the first impression of love resulted in marriage; and a family establishment cost but a little labor, and nothing else. A description of a wedding, fiom the beginning to the end, will serve to show the manners of our forefathers, and mark the grade of civilization which has succeeded to their rude state of society in the course of a few years. At an early period, the practice of celebrating the marriage at the house of the bride began, and, it should seem, with great propriety. She also had the choice of the priest to perform the ceremony.

A wedding engaged the attention of a whole neighborhood; and the frolic was anticipated by old and young with eager expectation. This is not to be wondered at, when it is told that a wedding was almost the only gathering which was not accompanied with the labor of reaping, log-rolling, building a cabin, or planning some scout or campaign. In the morning of the wedding-day, the groom and his attendants assembled at the house of his father, for the purpose of reaching the mansion of his bride by noon, whichll was the usual time for celebrating the nuptials, which for certain must take place before dinner. Let the reader iimagine an assemblage of people, without a store, tailor, or mantuamaker, within 100 miles; and an assemblage of horses, without a blacksmithl or saddler within an equal distance. The gentlemen dressed in shoepacks, moccasins, leather breeches, leggins, linsey hunting-shirts, and all home-mlade. The ladies dressed in linsey petticoats, and linsey or linen bed-gowns, coarse shoes, stockings, handkerchiefs, and buckskin gloves, if any. If there were any buckles, rings, buttons, or ruffles, they were the relics of old times; fanmily pieces, from parents or grand-parents. The horses were caparisoned with old saddles, old bridles or halters, and pack-saddles, with a bag or blanket thrown over them; a rope or string as often constituted the girth as a piece of leather. The march, in double file, was often interrupted by the narrowness and obstructions of our horse-paths, as they were called, for we had no roads; and these difficulties were often increased, sometimes by the good, and sometimes by the ill-will of neighbors, by falling trees, and tying grapevines across the way. Sometimes an ambuscade was formed by the wayside, and an unexpected discharge of several guns took place, so as to cover the wedding-party with smoke. Let the reader imagine the scene which followed this discharge; the sudden spring of the horses, the shrieks of the girls, and the chivalric bustle of their partners to save them from falling. Sometimes, in spite of all that could be done to prevent it, some were thrown to the ground. If a wist, elbow, or ankle happened to be sprained, it was tied with a handkerchief, and little more was thought or said about it. 775

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Another ceremony commonly took place before the party reached the house of the bride, after the practice of making whiskey began, which was at an early period; when the party were about a mile from the place of their destination, two young men would single out to run for the bottle; the worse the path, the more logs, brush, and deep hollows, the better, as these obstacles afforded an op portunity for the greater display of intrepidity and horsemanship. The English fox-chlase, in point of danger to the riders and their horses, is nothing to this race for the bottle. The start was announced by an Indian yell; logs, brush, muddy hollows, hill and glen, were speedily passed by the rival ponies. The bottle was aliways filled for the occasion, so that there was no use for judges; for the first who reached the door was presented with the prize, with which hlie returned in triumphl to the company. On approaching, them, he announced his victory over his rival by a shrill whoop. At the head of the troop, he gave the bottle first to the groom and his attendants, and then to each pair in succession to the rear of the line, giving each a dram; and then, putting the bottle in the bosom of his hunting-shirt, took his station in the company. The ceremony of the marriage preceded the dinner, which was a substantial backwoods feast, of beef, pork, fowls, and sometimtes venison and bear-nieat, roasted and boiled, with plenty of potatoes, cabbage, and other vegetables. Dur ing the dinner the greatest hilarity always prevailed, althlou,gh the table miglht be a large slab of timber, hewed out with a broadaxe, supported by four sticks set in auger-hloles; and the furniture, some old pewter dishes and plates; the rest, wooden bowls and trenchlers; a few pewter spoons, muich battered about the edges, were to be seen at some tables. Thile rest were made of hlorns. If knives were scarce, the deficiency was made utip by the scalping-knives, which were carried in sheaths suspended to the b)elt of the lhunting-shlirt. After dinner the dancing commenced, and generally lasted till the next morning. The figures of the dances were three and four-hlanded reels, or square setts and jigs. The colmmencement was always a square four, which was followed by what was called jigging it off; that is, two of the fouri would single out foi a jig, and wvere followed by the remaining couple. The jigs were often accompanied with what was called cutting out; that is, when either of the parties became tired of the dance, on intimation the place was supplied by some one of the company without any interruption of the dance. In this way a dance was often continued till the musician was heartily tired of his situation. Towards the latter part of the night, if any of the company, through weariness, attemllpted to conceal themselves, for the purpose of sleeping, they were hunted up, paraded on the floori, and the fiddler ordered to play, “Hang out till to-morrow morning.” About 9 or 10 o’clock, a deputation of the young ladies stole off the bride, and put her to bed. In doing this, it frequently happened that they had to ascend a ladder, instead of a pair of stairs, leading from the dining and ball-room to the loft, the floor of which was made of clapboards, lying loose, and without nails. As the foot of the ladder was commonly behind the door, which w-as purposely opened for the occasion, and its rounds at the inner ends were well hung with hunting-shlirts, petticoats, and other articles of clothing, the candles being on the opposite side of the house, the exit of the bride was noticed by but few. This done, a deputation of young men in like manner stole off the groom, and placed him snugly by the side of his bride. The dance still continued; and if seats happened to be scarce, which was often the case, every young man, when not engaged in the dance, was obliged to offer his lap as a seat for one of the girls; 776

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WEST VIRGINIA. and the offer was sure to be accepted. In the midst of this hilarity, the bride and groom were not forgotten. Pretty late in the night, some one would remiind the company that the newv couple must stand in need of some refrieslhment; )black Betty, whllichl was the name of the bottle, was called for, and sent up the ladder; but sometimes black Betty did not go alone. I have many times seen as niiucli bread, beef, pork, and cabbage sent along with her as would afford a good meal for half a dozen hungry men. The young couple were compelled to eat and drink, more or less, of whatever was offered them. It often happened that some neighbors or relations, not being asked to tlhe wedding, took offence; and the nmode of revenge adopted by them on such occasions was that of cutting off the manes, foretops, and tails of the horses of the wedding company. On returning to the infare, the order of procession, and the race for black Betty, was tile same as before. The feasting and dancing often lasted for several days, at the end of which the whole company were so exhausted with loss of sleep, that several days’ rest were requisite to fit them to return to their ordinary labors. Should I be asked why I have presented this unpleasant portrait of the rude manners of our forefathers, I in my turn would ask my reader, why are you pleased with the histories of the blood and carnage of battles? Why are you delighted with the fictions of poetry, the novel, and romnance? I have related trlutlh, and only truth, strange as it may seem. I have depicted a state of society and manners which are fast vanishing from the memory of man, with a view to give the youth of our country a knowledge of the advantages of civilization, and to give contentment to the ag,ed, by preventing them firom saying, “that former times were better than the present.” 777

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TENNE S SEE. Area………… 45,600 Square Miles. Population in 1860……. 1,109,801 (Whites, 826,782; Negroes, 283,019.) Population in 1870,…….1,258,376 THE State of Tennessee is situated between 35~ and 36~ 36’ N. latitude, and between 81~ 40’ and 90~ 15’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Kentucky and Virginia, on the east by North Carolina, on the south by North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi, and on the west by Arkansas and Missouri. Its extreme length, from east to west, is about 430 miles, and its average breadth about 110
miles. TOPOGRAPHY. The eastern part of the State is crossed by the various ranges of the great Alleghany chain, which are here known as the Stone, Iron, Bald, and Unaka Mountains. The Cumberland Mountains, whichl form the southeastern border of Kentucky, cross this State in a southwestern direction, and pass into Alabama. They lie about 40 or 50 miles west of the Alleghany range, the valley betwden them being watered by the Holston, Clinch, and the other head waters of the Tennessee River. The Cumberland Mountains cover an area of about fifty miles wide, and are thickly wooded.

Beyond this range a fine rolling country, known as Middle Tennessee, extends westward to the Tennessee River. Between that stream and the Mississippi the land is either greatly rolling or fiat. The Mississippi River washes the entire western shore of the State. Memphis, the principal city, is situated on this river, in the extreme southwestern corner of Tennessee. The Tennessee River is formed by 778 -~~~~~~RI”

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TENNESSEE. the confluence of the Hoiston and Clinch rivers, which, rising in the Alleghany Mountaius, in Virginia, unite at Kingston, in this State.

It flows in a generally southwestern direction to the base of the Cumberland Mountains, at the point where the boundaries of Tennessee, Alabama, and Georgia touch each other, and then sweeps around to the southwest, flows across the entire northern part of Alabama, touches the northeastern corner of Mississippi, and, bending to the north, crosses the States of Tennessee and Kentucky, and empties into the Ohio River at Paducah, 48 miles above the mouth of the latter stream. At Florence, Alabama, 280 miles from its mouth, the navigation is interrupted by the Muscle Shoals, a series of fine rapids, extending for about 20 miles above this point. Beyond these rapids, the stream is again navigable for steamers as far as Knoxville, on the Holston, 500 miles above Florence.

The Tennessee is 800 miles long, flowing through this State for 400 miles, and its principal branch, the Holston, 300 miles long, making a total length of 1100 miles. The chief towns of this State on its banks are Knoxville and Chattanooga. It flows for the most part through a beautiful and fertile country. The Cumnberland River, which flows across the northern part of Middle Tennessee, rises in the Cumberland Mountains in the southeastern part of Kentucky. It enters this State at the northeast angle of Jackson county, and flows in a generally southwestern direction to Nashville, after which its course is mainly northwest. It crosses the southern boundary of Kentucky, about 10 miles east of the Tennessee River, and flows parallel with that stream into the Ohio. It is about 600 miles long. At high water it is navigable for large steamers to Nashville, 200
miles from its mouth, and for small steamers 300 miles higher. The Forked Deer, Big Hatchie, and Obion flow into the Mississippi, and are each navigable for a greater or less distance. All the waters of this State ultimately find their way to the Mississippi. MINERALS. “The mnineral resources of Tennessee are developed to but a limited extent, though her hills and mnountainis contain stores of iron, of coal, and of copper, of zinc, of sandstone, and of the finest marble, awaiting the capital, enterprise, and labor that shall dig out and utilize these dormant mines of wealth. Iron ore is found in great abundance in nearly all the counties of Eastern and Middle Tennessee; copper, in Greene, Sevier, Polk, Perry, and other counties; coal, in the coun 779

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. ties of Campbell, Rhea, Marion, etc.; somne gold is reported in Polk, salts, in Greene and Hawkins; lead, in Perry; fine marble and build ingstones, in Hawkins, Campbell, Monroe, Meigs, Giles, and William son; thick stratum of shale, in Coffee, etc., etc. The timber resources are also extensive, embracing a great variety, and many of the finest quality of forest trees-hickory, the various oaks, poplar, walnut, asIh, beech, chestnut, locust, cedar, sugar, pine, etc., which cover a large portion of the vast tracts classed’ wild or unimproved lands.’ The soil ranges from that of the deep rich bottoms, of exhaustless fertility, to light and hilly uplands, which require high culture to become pro ductive. In a number of counties, the iron interest has been partially developed. In Greene, one furnace is in operation, and a northern company have purchased several thousand acres of ore-lands, and will soon have extensive works completed. Near the town of Greeneville, there is a bed of sulphate of iron, from which copperas was made during the war, and where even the clay is impregnated with the mineral. Our Montgomery correspondent says:‘that within twentyfive miles of Clarksville there are from ten to twenty furnaces lying idle for want of capital; most of them were burned during the war, and the proprietors being unable to rebuild and run them, would sell out very low.’ The zinc of Greene county is said to be very rich; during the war, Epsom salts were also made to some extent in the mountains. In Hawkins, our correspondent states,‘there is an underground stream of salt water traversing the valley, which has been tapped at several points, at one of which the manufacture of salt has been successfully prosecuted for a number of years, though not upon a large scale; but it is thought that, with capital and enterprise, it might be made to rival the salt-wells of southwestern Virginia in the production of this valuable product…. A most beautiful quality of marble is found at various points in this county; one quarry of which was worked to a considerable extent r)efore the war. Much capital might be profitably invested and many laborers usefully employed in the manufacture and preparation for market of the two articles named-salt and marble-as well as iron, the ore of which is present in the mountains.’ Our Marion correspondent says, ‘the quantity of bituminous and semi-bituminous coal and iron ore in this county is unlimited, with but little development of the former and none of the latter, though the inducements are great, produce being abundant and transportation good and improving.’ “ t

Agricultural Report. 780

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TENNESSEE. CLIMATE. The climate is usually mild. Except in the eastern part the winters are short and pleasant, and snow does not often fall. The summers are cool and delightful, and the State is generally healthful. In the mountains the winters, though short, are severe. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.

In the miountainis of East Tennessee, the land is poor and difficult of cultivation. The valleys, however, are fertile, and amnply repay the labor expended upon them. The soil of Middle Tennessee is generally good, whilst that of Western Tennessee consists of a rich black mould. The staple products are Indian corn, tobacco, and cotton. The agriculture of Tennessee was almost destroyed by the war, the State being, like Virginia, a vast battlefield, but the people are slowly recovering from their losses, and are bringing their crops up to something like the old average.

In 1869, the State contained 6,795,337 acres of improved land. The principal returns for the same year were: Bushels of wheat,…. “
lrye,…. peas and beans,. oats,…. Indian corn,.. Irish potatoes,. Tons of hay,…… Pounds of butter,…. Number of horses,…. ” asses and mules, ” milch cows,.. shieep…. swine,…. ” young cattle,. Value of domestic animals, In 1870, the cotton crop amounted to about 215,000
bales, and the tobacco crop is estimated at about 35,000,000 pounds.

COMMIERCE AND MANUFACTURES. This State has scarcely any foreign trade. Its cotton is exported from New Orleans, and the most of its other products are disposed 781 6,750,000 226,000 547,803 3,500,000 47,500,000 1,000,000

158,000 10,017,787 300,975 131,780 260,190 960,312 9,800,312 709,360

$65,211,425 …….

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. of in that city. Memphis has an important trade with the States along the MAississippi and Ohio rivers and with Arkansas.

Previous to the war manufactures were an important interest in Tennessee, and were becoming more extensive every year. The water power of the State is magnificent, and offers many inducements to capitalists. In 1860 there were 2572 establishments in Tennessee devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts, employing a capital of $14,426,261, and 12,528 hands, consuming raw material worth $9,416,514, and yielding an annual product of $17,987,225. Thie principal products were stated as follows for that year: Value of cotton goods,………….. $698,122 ” flour and meal……….3,820,801 ” pig-iron………….457,000 ” bar and rolled iri.on.l……..483,248 copper,……………404,000 coal,…………

413,662 sawed and planed luuber,…… 1,975,481 leather,……………..

1,118,850 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. There were, in 1868, in the State of Tennessee, 1317 miles of completed railroads, constructed at a cost of $34,186,000. Nashville, Miemphlis, and Chattanooga are the principal railroad centres of the State, and are connected with each other and with all parts of the country. Western and Middle Tennessee are covered with a network of roads extending into Kentucky on the north, and Mississippi and Alabama on the south, and the great route from Virginia to the Mississippi crosses the eastern part of the State in a southwest direction, from Bristol to Chattanooga. These railroads were almost entirely destroyed during the war. EDUCATION. In 1860, there were in Tennessee 35 colleges, with 2932 students; 274 academies and other schools, with 15,793 pupils; and 2965 public schools, with 138,809 pupils. Schools were organized in this State as early as 1780, in East Tennessee, and by the year 1795 there were 3 colleges in the State. The new Constitution makes a liberal provision for the support of free schools. A permanent school fund is established, and taxes are levied for the maintenance of the schools. The educational system is placed in charge of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, and is similar to that of West Virginia. 782

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TE.NNESSEE. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Penitentiary is located at NTashville. It is provided with fine commodious buildings, and is conducted on the silent system. The Tennessee Hospital for the Insane and the Tennessee Blind School are located at Nashville. They were damaged greatly, and met with many losses during the war, but have been reopened with success since the return of peace. Measures are on foot for the erection of a hospital for the colored insane. The Teniiessee Deaf and Dumb School is at Knoxville. It was established in 1845. It was broken up during the war, and the building occupied by the two armies, in turn, as a hospital, and greatly damaged. It was reopened in 1866, and is now prosperous. FINANCES. In 1867 the State debt amounted to $32,562,323, of which $23,601,000 consisted of bonds loaned to railroads. The expenditures of the treasury for the fiscal year ending September 30, 1867, were $2,259,522, and the receipts $2,336,445. In 1868 there were 12 National banks, with a capital of $2,025,300, doing business in the State.

GOVERNMENT. By the Constitution of this State every mnale citizen 21 years old, residing, in the State 1 year and in the county 6 months, who has paid the poll tax specified by the Constitution, is entitled to vote at the elections. The government of the State is vested in a Governor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Comptroller, AttorneyGeneral, and a General Assemibly, consisting of a Senate and House of Delegates. The Governor and members of the Legislature are elected by the people for two years. The State officers, with the exception of the AttorneyGeneral, are elected for four years by the Legislature. The AttorneyGeneral is appointed by the judges of the Supreme Court. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, Courts of Chancery, Circuit Courts, County Courts, and Justices’ Courts. The Supreme Court consists of 5 judges, no two of which must reside in the same part of the State. The scat of Government is at Nashville. For purposes-of government the State is divided into 84
counties. 783 I

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‘THE GREAT REPUBLIC. HIISTORY. Tennessee originally formned a part of the province of North Caro linia. It was, at the time of its settlement, a vast wilderness, which was claimed as a hunting ground by the Chickasaws, Choctaws, Shaw inees, and the Six Nations. Tile Cherokees dwelt in the extreme south east part, but no other tribe made the Territory a place of’

habitation. In 1756 Andrew Lewis was sent into this region for the purpose of settling it, by the Earl of London, then the Governor of Virginia, and commander of the Royal forces in America. He built a post, which he called Fort Loudon, on the Wautatiga or Little Tennessee, about 30 miles southwest of Knoxville. This settlement is nowv a thriving village. The fort was given a strong garrison of British troops, and, influenced by the sense of the protection whicl this force imparted, the region round about was soon partially settled by emigrants, and in the spring of 1758 the garrison of the fort was increased to 200 men. In 1758, Colonel Bird built a post in what is now Sullivan county. This was for somne time believed to be in Virginia, and was called Long Island Fort. In 1768, many families came out to the new region, and settled along the Holston and Wautauga rivers. In 1769, or 1770, a party of 10 hunters descended the Cumberland River to the Ohio, in bo:-ts which they had built, stopping for a while at the site of the present city of Nashville. They descended the Olhio to the Mississippi, and passed down that river to Natchez, which was then a Spanish settlemIent. They were kindly treated by the Spaniards, and some of theml remained there, but others returned to the settlements along the Wautauga. In 1760, Fort London was besieged by the Cherokees, and closely invested for a month. The garrison, 200 in number, consumed their horses and dogs, and finally, being on the point of starvation, surrendere(l upon condition that they should be allowed to return to Virginia. They were suffered to depart and to miarch 15 miles from the fort without being molested, but when they had accomplished that distance, were treacherously attacked and nearly all massacred on the spot. This outrage was avenged the next year by Colonel Grant, who, with a force of 2600 regular and provincial troops and friendly Indians, invaded the Cherokee country and laid waste their fields and villages. These severe measures compelled the savages to sue for peace. 784

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TENNESSEE. By the outbreak of the Revolution the Tennessee country was quite thickly settled, and the population was increasing at an encouraging rate. In 1776, the Cherokees, incited by the British, waged a formnidable war upon the settlers, but were defeated by the forces of Virginia and North Carolina. The Tennessee settlements, at this time known as the “District of Washington,” were represented in the Convention which framed the Constitution of INorth Carolina, and, in 1780, the Tennessee militia, under Colonel Levier, bore a conspicuous part in the bloody battle of King’s Mountain. After the war lands in this region were offered the North Carolina troops in payment of the bounties due tlhemn. Many of them accepted the offer and settled on the lands. Others sold their warrants to actual settlers. Nashville had been settled by a party of two or three hutndred, under Colonel Robertson, as early as 1780, and the rich lands of Davidson county, lying around it, now attracted the greater part of the holders of the military warrants. In 178,5, the inhabitants of the p)resent counties of Sullivaii, Washingtoil, and Greene, attempted to set up an independent State Government, as they declared, and with truth, that the capital of North Carolina was too far awvay to benefit them. They called their new State Fratklin. This course produced considerable confusion, which was not quieted until 1790, when North Carolina ceded the territory to the United States. Congress established a Territorial Government, and the region was called “The Territory of the United States southwest of the Ohio River.” In 1794, the Territory of Tennessee was organized, and the Legislature met at Knoxville. The next year it was found that it contained a population of 77,262, of which 10,613 were niegro slaves. Efflorts were now made to secure its erection into a State, and on the 1st of June, 179(6, Tennessee was admitted into the Union. The State took an active part in the second war witli England, and contributed to the cause Andrew Jackson, who won the victory of New Orleans, and many of the hardy backwoodsmen who fought under him that day. After the return of peace, Tennessee entered upon a career of prosperity, whlich was checked by the Rebellion. Being a slaveholding State, it was expected that the people would take sides with the extreme proslavery party. When the Gulf States seceded from the Union in the winter of 1860-61, Tennessee was urged to join them. The Legislature submitted to the people the call for a Convention, for 5o 785

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. NASHVILLE. the purpose of seceding, and this call was defeated by a popular majority of 64,114. After the fall of Fort Sumter, however, the Governor convened the Legislature in extra-session, and on the 9th of May, 1861, that body adopted an Ordinance of Secession, and sent representatives and senators to the Confederate Congress. Western and Middle Tennessee were very clearly in sympathy with this action of the Legislature, but East Tennessee was loyal to the Union. The State was at once occupied by the Confederates, and in the spring of 1862, the western and northern portions fell into the hands of the Union forces. Volunteers enlisted on each side, and the State became the western battlefield of both armies. The severe battles of Fort Donnelson, Shiloh and Pittsburg Landing, Murfreesboro, Chattanoog,a, Knoxville, and Nashville, were fought within the limits of the State. After the close of the war, a Provisional Governor was appointed, and the State was restored to its former position in the Union on the 24th of July, 1866. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of the State are, Memphis, Knoxville, Chattanooga, and Murfreesboro. 786

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TENNESSEE. NASHVILLE, The capital and second city of the State, is situated ill Davidson county, on the left bank of the Cumberland River, at the head of steamboat navigation, about 200 miles from the mouth of that stream, 230 miles east-northeast of Memphis, and 684 miles southwest of WVashington. Latitude 36~ 9’ N; longitude 86~ 49’ W. The city is delightfuilly situated in a beautiful, healthy, and fertile country, and has long been one of the most important places in the southwest. It is built on an elevated bluff of limestone, and commands fine views of the river and vicinity. It is regularly laid off, and contains many handsome edifices. Many of the residences are palatial in their character. The public buildings are handsome. The Capitol is one of the finest edifices on the continent. It stands on an eminence 197 feet above the river, and is built of fine fossilated limestone, much like marble, which was quarried on the spot. Many of the blocks weigh 10 tons each. Its dimensions are 270 by 140 feet. “Its architecture is Grecian, consisting of a Doric basement, and supporting on its four fronts, Ionic porticoes, modelled after those of the Erechtheum at Athens.” In the centre of the building is a tower 80 feet high. The halls of the Legislature are among the handsomest in the country, being surpassed only by those of the two Houses of Congress. The cost of the capitol was $1,000,000 in gold. The Lunatic Asylum, and the State Pe)titeittiary are imposing buildings. The latter contains 200 cells. The City Hall is also a handsome building. The schools of the city are noted for their excellence. It has several public schools in operation, and one for colored children. The [,liversity of Nashville, founded in 1806, is an institution of high character. Its Medical Department is regarded as an excellent school. The female schools are considered the best in the State. The State Library contains over 12,000 volumes. The Cumberland River is crossed here by a fine bridge. The river is navigable for steamers during the greater part of the year, and Nashville is the seat of a heavy river trade. It has railway communication with all parts of the State and country. It contains about 14 churches, and about 8 newspaper and 4 magazine offices. It is lighted with gas, is supplied with water from the Cumberland River, and possesses a steam fire-engine department, and an efficient police force. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 25,865. 787

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Nashville has long been noted for its enterprising spirit, literary taste, and polished society. It is in everything but geographical position a Southern rather than a Western city. It was founded in 1779, by a party of emigrants from North Carolina, and established as a town by the Assembly of that State, in 1784. It was namied in honoI of Colonel Francis Nash, who fell at the head of his regiment at Germantown. It suffered very greatly during the civil war. It was occupied by the United States army in February, 1862, and held until the close of the war. On the 16thl of December, 1864, General Thomas, in command of the United States forces, inflicted a bloody defeat upon the Confederate army, under General Hood, in the vicinity. 3E31IPHIS.

MEMP-IIS, The largest city in the State, is situated in Shelby county, on the east bank of the Mississippi River, just below the mouth of Wolf River, 420 miles below St. Louis, 956 miles above New Orleans, and 230
miles westsouthwest of N\ashville. It stands on the 4th Chiekasaw Bluff, and possesses the only convenient location for a commercial city between the mouth of the Ohio and Vicksburg, Mississippi, a distance of 6(50
miles. Possessing this, it has become the most populous and important place on the river, between St. Louis and New Orleans. 788

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TENNESSEE. The bluff, on which the city is built, is elevated 60 feet above the river, and is about 3 miles in length. At its base a bed of sandstone projects into the river, and forms the levee or landing. The city lies entirely on the bluff above, and presents a fine appearance when viewed from the river. An esplanade, several hundred feet in width, occupies the front of the plateau, and this is lined with handsome buildings, which face the river. The general appearance of the city is attractive, and many of the business edifices and private residences would do credit to any city in the land. Memphis is lighted with gas, and a street railway connects its various points. It contains about 24 good public schools, several private schools, a Mercantile Library, 20
churches, and 10 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council.

In 1870, the population was 40,226. Memphis is the most important city on the lower Mississippi, besides New Orleans. It has grown with surprising rapidity, notwithstanding the civil war, which injured it severely. It is connected with all parts of the country by railway, and controls a large share of the enormous trade of the Mississippi. It is the principal point for shipping the rich produce of Tennessee, Northern Mississippi, and Arkansas. Corn, cotton, wheat, and tobacco are exported in large quantities. In 1736, the French selected the bluff, on which Memphis stands, as a suitable position for the establishment of a fort, but they neglected to occupy it. In 1783, the Spanish Government directed W. I.

Gayoso, the Acting-Governor of Louisiana, to occupy and fortify the bluff, which was done. They held the place until the purchase of Louisiana by the United States. In the same year, Fort Pickering was established here by the United States forces. The settlement of the town was begun in 1820.

During the first part of the civil war it was held by the Confederates. It was captured by the United States forces in June, 1862, and held by them until the close of the war. KNOXVILLE, The third city of the State, and the principal place in East Tennessee, is beautifillly situated, in Knox county, on the north bank of the Hiolston River, 4 miles below its junction with the French Broad River, 185 miles east of Nashville. It is located on high ground, from which are obtained magnificent views of the river and distant 789

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Blue Mountains of Chilihowee. The town is well built, and is said to be an agreeable place of residence. It contains the University of East Tennessee, the State Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, 5
churches, several public and private schools, and 2 newspaper offices. It is extensively engaged in the manufacture of window-glass. The city is connected with all parts of the country by railway, and the river is navigable for steamers at all seasons. Fine marble quarries, iron ore, and bituminous coal abound in the surrounding country. Ill 1870, the population was 8008. Knoxville was laid out in 1794, in which year it was made the capital of the State, which it continued to be until 1817. During the civil war, it was the centre of the opposition to the Confederacy, which was maintained throughout the whole struggle by the East Tennesseans. It was taken by the United States forces in the fall of 1862.

The next year it was besieged by the Confederates, under General Longstreet, and was reduced to severe straits. Several desperate battles occurred in the vicinity. It was relieved finally by the United States army, under General Burnside. MISCELLANY. THE BOYHOOD OF ANDREW JACKSON.

His parents were Scotch-Irish emigrants from Carrickfergus, of the humblest condition in life, and to add to the struggles of the family with adversity, his father died just after the birth of his son. His mother was obliged to find a home, as housekeeper and poor relation, in the family of a brother-in-law, and here young Andrew passed the first ten or twelve years of his life. He soon acquired the reputation of being the most mischievous boy in the neighborhood, always full of pranks and getting into trouble. His schlool-days were not of the most promising character; nor, judging firom Mr. Parton’s lively description, was his youthful brain in danger of being turned by any superfluity of booklearning. In due time the boy was sent to an “old-field school,” an institution not much unlike the road-side schools in Ireland of which we read.‘hlle Northern reader is, perhaps, not aware that an “old-field” is not a field at all, but a pine forest. When crop after crop of cotton, withiout rotation, has.exhlausted the soil, the fences are taken away, the land lies waste, the young pines at once spring up, and soon cover the whole field with a thick growthl of wood. In one of these old fields, the rudest possible shanty of a log house is erected, with a fireplace that extends from side to side, and occupies a third of the interior. In winter, the interstices of the log walls are filled up with clay; which the restless fingers of the boys make haste to remove in time to admit the first warm airs of spring. An itinerant schoolmaster presents himself in a neighborhood; the responsible farmers pledge him a certain number of pupils, and an old-field school is established for the season. Such schools, called by the same name, exist to this day 790

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TENNESSEE. in the Carolinas, differing little from those which Andrew Jackson attended in his childhood. Reading, writing, and arithmetic were all the branches taught in the early day. Among a crowd of urchins seated on the slab benches of a school like this, fancy a tall, slender boy, with bright blue eyes, a freckled face, an abundance of long, sandy hair, and clad in coarse, copperas-colored cloth, with bare feet dangling and kicking, and you have in your mind’s eye a picture of Andy as lie appeared in his old-field school days in the Waxhaw settlement. His mother seems to have had more ambitious views for her son, and hoped that by being enabled to obtain for him a liberal education, she would have the pleasure to see him “wag his pow in a pulpit” as a clergyman of the Presbyte rian Church.

He was not destined, however, to “beat the drum ecclesiastic,” though if his good mother’s wishes could have been realized, he would doubtless have proved a valiant soldier of the “church militant,” and dealt thick and heavy blows on the sinner and heretic with as much unction as he subsequently discomfited the invaders of his country at New Orleans. Hle was a fighter from his earliest boyhood. Not a drop of tame blood ran in his veins. Andy was a wild, frolicsome, wilful, mischievous, daring, reckless boy; generous to a friend, but never content to submit to a stronger enemy. He was passionately fond of those sports which are nilmic battles-above all, wrestling. Being a slender boy, more active than strong, hle was often thrown. I could throw him three times out of four,”

an old schoolmate used to say, ” but he would never stay t71rowed. He was dead game, even then, and never would give up.” He was exceedingly fond of running foot races, of leaping the bar, and jumping, and in such sports he was excelled by no one of his years. To younger boys, who never questioned his mastery, he was a generous protector; there was nothing he would not do to defend them. His equals and superiors found him self-willed, somewhat overbearing, easily offended, very irascible, and, upon the whole, ” difficult to get along with.” One of them said, many years after, in the heat of controversy, that of all the boys hlie had ever known, Andrew Jackson was the only bully who was not also a coward. But the boy, it appears, had a special cause of irritation in a disgraceful disease, name unknown, which induces a habit of-not to put too fine a point on it”slobbering.” Woe to any boy who presumed to jest at this mnisfortune!

Andy was upon him incontinently, and there was either a fight or a drubbing. There is a story, too, of some boys secretly loading a gun to the muzzle, and giving it to young Jackson to fire off, that they might have the pleasure of seeing it ” kick” him over. They had that pleasure.

Springing up from the ground, the boy, in a frenzy of passion, exclaimed: ”’ By, if one of you laughs, I’ll kill him!” He soon had an opportunity for pursuing higher game. He was 9 years old when the Declaration of Independence was signed. By the time the war approached the obscure settlement in the region of the Catawba, where lie was born, hlie was a little more than 13. A change now came over his rustic life. The schoolhouse was closed, the peaceful labors of the people interrupted. His elder brother Itugh had already mounted his horse and ridden southward to meet the bloody strife. It was on the 29th of May, 1780, that Tarleton, with 300 horsemen, surprised a detachment of militia in the Waxhlaw settlement, and killed 113 of them, and wounded 150. The wounded, abandoned to the care of the settlers, were quartered in the houses of the vicinity, the old log Waxhraw meetinghouse 791

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. itself being converted into a hospital for the most desperate cases. Mrs. Jack son was one of the kind women who ministered to the wounded soldiers in the church, and under that roof her boys first saw what war was. The men were dreadfully mangled. Some had received as many as thirteen wounds, and none less than three. For many days Andrew and his brother assisted their mother in waiting upon the sick men; Andrew, more in rage than pity, though pitiful by nature, burning to avenge their wounds and his brothler’s death. Tarleton’s massacre at the Waxhaw settlement kindled the flames of war in all that region of the Carolinas.

Andrew, with his brother Robert, was present at Sumter’s attack on the British post at Hanging Rock, where hlie might have re ceived his first lesson in the art of war. Soon after lie passed his 14th birthday, there ensued a fierce, intestine warfare in the vicinity of his home-a war of Wlhig and Tory, neighbor against neighbor, brother against brother, and even father against son. Among other instances of the madness that prevailed, a case is related of a Whig, who, having found a friend murdered and mutilated, devo ted himself to the slaying of Tories. He hunted and lay in wait for them, and before the war ended had killed 20, and then, recovering from that insanity, lived the rest of his days a conscience-stricken wretch. Andrew and his brother soon began to take a personal share in the eventful conflict. Without enlisting in any regular corps, they plunged into the fight on their own hook, joining small par tics that went out onl single enterprises of retaliation, mounted on their own horses, and carrying their own weapons. Mr. Parton gives a description of one of his adventures in this line, which illustrates both the time and the boy: “In that fierce, Scotch-Indian warfare, the absence of a father from home was often a better protection to his family than his presence, because his presence invited an attack. The main object of both parties was to kill the fighting men, and to avenge the slaying of partisans. The house of the quiet hero Hicks, for example, was safe until it was noised about among the Tories that Hicks was at home. And thus it came to pass, that when a.Whig soldier of note desired to spend a night with his family, his neighbors were accustomed to turn out and serve as a guard to his house while hlie slept. Behold Robert and Andrew Jackson, with 6 others, thus employed one night in the spring of 1781, at the domicil of a neighbor, Captain Sands. The guard on this occasion was more a friendly tribute to an active partisan than a service considered necessary to his safety. In short, the night was not far advanced before the whole party were snugly housed and stretched upon the floor, all sound asleep except one, a British deserter, who was restless, and dozed at intervals.

“‘Danger was near. A band of Tories, bent on taking the life of Captain Sands, approached the house in two divisions, one party movieg toward the firont door, the other toward the back. The wakeful soldier, hearing a suspicious noise, rose, went out of doors to learn its cause, and saw the foe stealthily nearing the house. He ran in in terror, and seizing Andrew Jackson, who lay next the door, by the hlair, exclaimed:’ The Tories are upon us! “Andrew sprang up and ran out. Seeing a body of men in the distance, he placed the end of his gun in the low fork of a tree near the door and hailed them. No reply. He hailed them a second time. No reply.

They quickened their pace, and had come within a few rods of the door. By this time, too, the guard in the house had been roused, and were gathered in a group behind the boy. Andrew discharged his musket, upon which the Tories fired a volley, which killed the hapless deserter who had given the alarm. The other party of Tories, 792

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TENNESSEE. who were approaching the house from the other side, hearing this discharge, and the rush of bullets above their heads, supposed that the firing proceeded from a party that had issued from the house. They now fired a volley, which sent a shower of balls whistling about the heads of their friends on the other side. Both parties hesitated, and then halted.

Andrew having thus, by his single discharge, puzzled and stopped the enemy, retired to the house, where hlie and his comrades kept up a brisk fire from the windows. One of the guard fell mortally wounded by his side, and another received a wound less severe. In the mlidst of this singular contest, a bugle was heard, some distance off, sounding the cavalry charge, whereupon the Tories, concluding that they had come upon an ambush of Whigs, and were about to be assailed by horse and foot, fled to where they had left their horses, mounted, dashed pell-mell into the woods, and were seen no more. It appeared afterward that the bugle charge was sounded by a neighbor, who, judging ifrom the noise of musketry that Captain Sands was attacked, and having not a man with him in his house, gave the blast upon the trumpet, thinking that even a trick so stale, aided by the darkness of the night, might have some effect in alarming the assailants.”

After peace was restored to his neighborhood, young Jackson embraced every opportunity to engage in a “free fight,” beside sharing largely in the fun and frIolic, which were almost as congenial to his disposition as the drubbing of an adversary. Several Charleston families of wealth and distinction were waiting in the settlement for the evacuation of their city. With the young men whose acquaintance he thus made, Andrew led a life in the summer and autumn of 1782 that was more merry than wise. He now began to betray that taste for horseflesh which became such a decided passion in after life. He ran races and rode races, gambled a little, drank a little, indulged in a cock-fight occasionally, and presented a glorious specimen of the Young America at that day. He seems to have had but a faint love for his Carolina relations, and was probably regarded as the scapegrace of the family. It is credibly related that his first attempt at earning a living for himself was in the capacity of a country schoolmaster; but, after trying his hand in this uncongenial employment for a short time, he resolved to study law. Gathering together his scanty earnings, hlie mounts his horse, sets his face to the northward in quest of a master with whom to pursue his law studies, and finally enters an office in Salisbury, N. C., at the age of 18. Of his residence in that pleasant old town, 5Ir. Parton has succeeded in bagging some characteristic if not altogether edifying reminiscences: “Salisbury teems with traditions respecting the residence there of Andrew Jackson as a student of law. Their general tenor may be expr’ssed in the language of the first old resident of the town, to whom I applied for information: ‘Andrew Jackson was the most roaring, rollicking, game-cocking, horse-racing, card-playing, mischievous fellow that ever lived in Salisbury.’ Add to this such expressions as these:‘He did not trouble the law books much,” He was more in the stable than in the office,” He was the head of all the rowdies hereabouts.’ That is the substance of what the Salisbury of 1859 has to say of the Andrew Jackson of 1785. “Nothing is more likely than that he was a roaring, rollicking fellow, overflowing with life and spirits, and rejoicing to engage in all the fun that was going; but I do not believe that he neglected his duties at the office to the extent to which Salisbury says he did. There are good reasons for doubting it. At no 793

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. part of Jackson’s career, when we can get a look at him through a pair of trustworthy eyes, do we find him trifling with life.

We find him often wrong, but always earnest. He never so much as raised a field of cotton which he did not have done in the best manner known to him. It was not in the nature of this young man to take a great deal of trouble to get a chance to study law, and then entirely to throw away that chance. Of course lie never became, in any proper sense of the word, a lawyer, but that he was not diligent and eager in picking up the legal knowledge necessary for practice at that day, will become less credible to the reader the more hlie knows of him. Once, in the White House, 45 years after this period, when some one from Salisbury reminded him of his residence in that town, he said, with a smile and a look of retrospection on his aged face: ‘ Yes, I lived at old Salisbury. I was but a raw lad then, but I did ny best.’” 794

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K ENT UC KY. Area,…………. 37,680 Square Miles. Population in 1860…….. 1,155,684 (Whites, 919,517; Negroes, 236,167.) Population in 1870,…….1,321,911 THE State of Kentucky is situated between 36~ 30’

and 39~ 10’ N. latitude, and between 81~ 50’ and 89~ 26’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, on the east by West Virginia and Virginia, on the south by Tennessee, and on the west by Indiana, Illinois and Missouri. It is very irregular in shape, the northern line following the windings of the Ohio River. Its extreme length, from east to west, is about 300 miles, and its greatest width (following a line drawn south from Cincinnati, Ohio) about 180 miles. At its southwest end it is not over 50 miles wide. TOPOGRAPHY. The southeast part of the State is crossed by the Cumberland Mountains, which separate it from Virginia. Some outlying ridges of this range, none of them more than 2000 feet high, extendlinto the southeast counties. The centre of the State is a fine rolling country, but west of the 85th meridian of longitude the surfeace is principally level, except along the Ohio River, which is bordered by a range of hills. These hills approach the stream as near as half a mile in some places, and in others recede from it to a distance of 10 or 20 miles. The Ohio River washes the entire northern and northwestern shore of the State, and receives the waters of the Big Sandy (which separates Kentucky from West Virginia), Licking, Kentucky, Salt, Green, Cumnberland and Tennessee rivers. It borders the State for 600 795

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. niles, and is navigable for large steamers the whole distance. The Kentucky River rises in the southeast part of the State, the Licking in the northeast, the Salt and the Green rivers in the centre. All flow in a generally northwest course. They are all navigable for over 50
miles, except the Licking. MINERALS. “Kentucky is rich in mineral resources, and her beds of coal and mountains of iron are almost inexhaustible. Coal is found in abundance at Greenup, Rockeastle, Laurel, Pulaski, Whitley, Clinton, Edmonson, Hardin, Ohio, Butler, Christian, Webster, and other counties. In most of these counties this coal is of excellent quality, but used only for home consumption, there being no means of transportation. In Laurel county, the coal beds are from 3 to 5
feet ill thickness. Iron is found in greater or less quantity in Greenup, Trimble, Rockeastle, Pulaski, Whitley, Russell, Clinton, Edmnonson, Ohio, Butler, etc., but, like the coal deposits, has been but feebly developed.

In Greenup, the furnaces are closed up, ore within reach of present facilities being pretty well exhausted. Iron ore is found all through Russell county.‘About 35 years since a very superior iron was manufactured here, from which sonme of the blacksmiths made good edged tools without steel. The iron was hard and tough. There has been no development since, and it is doubted whether the ore is in sufficient quantity to pay for working.’ This ore also abounds in Clinton county, and David Dale Owen, in his Geological Survey of Kentucky, in speaking of this and counties east of it, says:‘There is every reason for believing that their resources in coal and iron-staple commodities of those nations of greatest prosperitywill, when filly developed, compare favorably with those of any civilized country on the face of the earth.’ In Butler county there is much iron ore, but it is said to be of the honeycomb-variety, which is considered comparatively valueless. A large amount of capital could be profitably invested in utilizing the iron interest of this State. “Lead is found in Trimble, Owen, Bourbon, Scott, Franklin, Anderson, Livingston, and counties contiguous. In Anderson there is a mine said to yield 80 per cent. of lead, but the chemist making the test reported that it would not pay to work it. In Livingston, lead has been found upon the surface, but has not been worked to any extent. Salt wells exist in several counties, but are not worked. In 796

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KVNTUCKY. Wb% ~~~\ ~ INSIDE iMAM13IOTII CAVE. Clinton, says our correspondent,’ a fine streanm of salt water hlas been struck on MWillis Creek, in the northwest, and a company are now at work producing salt, and the prospect is considered good. There is a fine opening for men experienced in salt imaking, there being an abLlund(ance of water, and timber and labor is chleap. Salt for the YNaslhville market and for the Cumberland PRiver country comes fromni Ohio and WVesterin Virginia. The cost of shippiing salt down tlhe Ohio and up the Cumniberland is certainly mulch greater than down the Cumiberlanid to Nashlville.’ Salt water also abounds illn Atetcalfe, Anderson, AVhitley, Russell, etc. There has recently been discovered a gold mine in Anderson county, and its value is being now tested by a company. Sal tpetre is found in Pioekeastle, and limestone and freestone abound in Lewis, Trimble, Clarke, and other counties. Our LewNis county correspondent claims for his county’the finest ledge of freestone froni Pittsburg to Cincinnati, froi whlichl nearly all the fine buildings in tl-he latter city are now being built, and the rock of which the Cinicinnati and Covington bridge wvas built was takeni fromi 797

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the quarries of this county; not extensively worked, there being but one quarry in operation, employing 200 men.’” * CLIMATE.

The climate is mild and healthful. The winters are short and pleasant, and the summers are cool and delightful. The State is almost exempt from the sudden changes which afflict the Atlantic States. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. As a general rule the soil of Kentucky is extremely fertile. Scarcely any of the land is unfit for cultivation. The soil is generally a black mould, often two and three feet deep. Extensive and almost impenetrable canebrakes occur in various parts of the State, and fine natural pastures occupy a region lying in the south central part, along the sources of the Green River, and known as the ” Barrens.” The State is almost exclusively agricultural in its pursuits. The great staples are corn, tobacco, flax, hemp, and wheat. There are 20,o63,652 acres of improved and unimproved land in the State, valued at $217,672,826. The tobacco crop, in 1870, amounted to 90,000 hlds. In 1869, the principal returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,… ” Ildiali corn,. oats,….. ” Irish p)otLatoes,. “
rye…… ” barley,…. Tons of hay,…….. Number of horses….. ” asses and mlules, milch cows,.. ” sheep,.. swine,. young cattle,.. Value of domestic animals,. Pounds of wool (estimated), flax “. COMMERCE AND

MANUFACTURES. Kentucky has no foreign commerce, but carries on an active trade with the States along the Mississippi and Ohio rivers. Stock raising * Agricultural Report, Marchl, 1868. 798 . 5,500,000 . 51.,500,000 .

5,800,000 . 2,100,000 .775,000 304,000 155,000 650,811 140,910 280,1-91 .

1,001,861 .‘1,690,870 610,845 . $69,868,237 . 2,500,000 800,000

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KENTUCKY. forms an important interest in this State, and large droves of cattle, horses, and mules are annually sent to the Eastern States for sale. In 1860, there were in this State 3450 establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed a capital of $20,256,579, and produced goods worth $37,931,240. The principal products were as follows: Value of woollen goods…….. agricultural iimIkleents,8
pig-iron……… rolled iron,…….. ” steam engines and nmacliinery, coal,……….. ” sawed and )planed lumber,.. flour,…….. spirituous and malt liquors,. leather………. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, there were 625 miles of completed railroads in Kentucky, constructed at a cost of $22,393,000. The principal cities and towns in the northern, central, and western portions of the State are connected with each other and with all parts of the Union by railroad, but still many of the finest sections of the State are without such means of communication with the cities on the Ohio. Several important roads have been projected, and if constructed will remedy this defect. A canal extends around the falls of the Ohio, at Louisville. It is one mile and a half long, and was constructed by the General Government, at a cost of $750,000. EDUCATION. In 1860, Kentucky contained 20 colleges, with 2486 students; 233 academies and other schools, with 17,597 pupils; and 4507 public schools, with 156,158 pupils.

The public school system is in charge of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, Boards of County Commissioners and local trustees in the districts, and measures are being carried out which will revolutionize the old system and render it more efficient. The State has a permanent school fund. The most important institution in the State is the Kentucky University. This now includes the State University established in 1858, 799 … $1,128,882 … 597,118 … 534,164 … 514,000 … 1,004,664 …

476,800 … 2,200,674 … 5,034,745 … 1,179,3 51 … 701,555

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Transylvania University, and the Agricultural College.

It is located at Lexington, and includes “Ashland,” the home of Henry Clay. In 1860, there were 196 libraries in the State, with 148,012
volumes; and the number of newspapers an(l periodicals was 77, of which 65
were political, 5 religious, and 4 literary. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Pe)titentiary is located at Frankfort. In January, 1871, it contained 680 convicts. Considerable additions have been recently added to the buildings. There are two Lunatic Asylumss, the “Eastern,” at Lexington, and the “Western,” at Hopkinsville. The former contained 258
inmates, in October, 1867, and the latter 283, in September, 1868. The Kentucky Istitution for Deaf Y-utes is located at Danville, and contains about 96 pupils; and the Institution fo) the Edlucation aced Training of Feeble-minded Children is at Danville, and contains about 52 pupils. The State has no juvenile reformatory establishments in operation, but the new Hlouse of Reformn was completed and ready for use in the summer of 1871.

RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 2179 churches in this State, and the value of church property was $3,928,620. FINANCES. On the 10th of October, 1870, the total debt of the State was $1,424,934. The total expenditures of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending in October, 1870, amounted to $1,082,639, and the receipts to $996,750. In October, 1868, there were 15 National banks, with a capital of $2,885,000, doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. Every white male citizen, 21 years old, who has resided two years ill the State, one year in the county, and sixty days in the precinct in which he presents his ballot, is entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Soo

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KENTUCKY. General Assembly, composed of a Senate (of 38 members, elected for four years, one half retiring biennially) and a House of Delegates (of 100 metll)ers, elected for twvo years). The Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Auditor, and AttorneyGeneral, and Members of the Legislature are elected by the people. The Secretary of State is appointed by the Governor, and confirmed by the Senate. All the State officers serve four years. The courts of the State are a Supreme Court of Appeals (consisting of four judges), Circuit Courts, County Courts, and Justices’ Courts. All the judges are Justices of the Peace, and all are elected by the p)eople. IIJ
the Supreme Court, the judge having the shortest term to serve is the Chief Justice. The seat of Government is at Frankfort. For purposes of government the State is divided into 109 counties. HIIISTORY. Kentucky was originally included within the limits of Virginia. Thle name is an Indian word, signifying “the dark and bloody ground.” In 1766, Colonel James Smith made a journey of exploration into this region, starting from the Holston River. He was accompanied by three white men and a negro slave. He found the territory unoccupied by any Indian tribes for purposes of residence, but evidently used as a lhunting-ground by several of them. It gave evidence of great fertility, and its rich beauty impressed the explorers profoundly. In 1767, John Findley and several companions set out from North Carolina on a trading expedition to this region, and in 1769, Daniel Boone entered it witli a party of five, in which went John Findley, for the purpose of exploring it. The party built a cabint on Red River, fromn which they made repeated excursions. During one of these excursions, Boone and a man named Stuart were captured by the Indians. They made their escape, and returned to their camp. They found it deserted and destroyed, but never learned the fate of those whom they had left there. Soon after this, Boone returned to his home in North Carolina. In 1770, a party of Tennesseans, from the Clinch River, under Colonel Jamnes Knox, went into Kentucky. They remained there some time, and thoroughly explored the southern and middle parts. Boone’s party was in Kentucky at this time, but never encountered Colonel Knox or any of his men. They confined their explorations to the middle and northern sections. 51 801

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The reports of Boone and Knox caused the settlers of Virginia and North Carolina to feel a lively interest in the new country, in which the lands given to the Virginia troops, for services in the French war, were located. Surveyors were soon after sent out to lay off these lands, and in 1773, a party, under Captain Bullit, reached the falls of the Ohio, and built a fortified camp there, for the purpose of surveying the region. In 1774, James Hlarrod built a station, which soon grew into consid(lerable importance, and thus founded the town of Harrodsburg, the oldest settlement in Kentucky. The next year, 1775, Daniel Boone built a fort on the site of the present town of Boonesborough. The savages made repeated attacks upon his party, hoping to drive them away, but without success. The fort was finished by the middle of April, 1775, and soon after Boone was joined by his wife and daughters.

He continued to reside in the fort with them. In the same year Simon Kenton built a cabin on the site of the present town of Washington, in Mason county. In the spring of 1777, the General Assembly of Virginia constituted the Kentucky region a county, and established a Court of Quarter Sessions at Harrodsburg. During the Revolution the settlements suffered much from the British and Indians. In 1780, several of the forts were taken by them, cannon being employed for their reduction. A large number of settlers came out in 1780 and 1781, notwithstanding the danger from the Indians. On the 19th of August, 1782, a bloody battle was fought between the whites and the savages, near Blue Lick Springs, in which the former were defeated. For some years after this, numerous expeditions were sent from Kentucky into the Indian country (the present State of Ohio) and many severe conflicts were fought in that region. After the close of the Revolution, the Government of Virginia and the Federal Congress afforded so little protection to the settlers that they became restless and discontented. The trouble was increased by the fear that the Federal Government meant to surrender the right to navigate the Mississippi, which the settlers saw would be essential to the future prosperity of their country. It was some time before these discontents were quieted. In 1774
and in 1775, conventions were held at Danville, which recommended peaceable and quiet separation from Virginia, and the establishment of a separate Government for .802

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KENTUCKY. Kentucky. Several other conventions were held, during which a desire for a separate nationality was distinctly expressed. Spain endeavored( to draw the Kentuckians off from the Union by offers of special privileges on the Mississippi, but better counsels prevailed, and the Kentucklians adopted an address to Congress. The result was that the Territory of Kentucky was ceded by Virginia to the General Government. It was fully organized by Congress in 1790, and in 1792 was admitted into the Union as a State. Its population now numbered 75,000. Tile inefficient protection against the Indians afforded by the Federal Government, the taxes, and the Mississippi question continued to agitate the State for some years, and until the purchase of Louisiana put an end to the Mississippi dispute, and the peace of 1815 broke the power of the savages.

During the second war with England, Kentucky contributed many troops to the western army under General Harrison. Many of her best citizens were killed at the massacre at the River Raisin, and in the attempt to relieve Fort Meigs. Her citizens responded promptly to the call for troops for the defence of New Orleans, and the Kentucky riflemen made a proud name on the plains of Chalmette. Indeed, they volunteered so fast that the State authorities had to intervene, and compel them to remain at home. The Kentucky troops nobly sustained their old reputation in the war with Mexico. The State grew rapidly in population and wealth, and was prospering beyond the most sanguine expectations of its original founders.

When the Rebellion broke out, the people were divided in sentiment, and a strong effort was made to withdraw the State from the Union, and unite it with the Confederacy. Failing to accomplish this, the friends of the South crossed the Tennessee line, and entered the Confederate army. The State authorities, however, remained loyal to the Union, and the regular administration of the Government, though much interrupted, was continued.

The State was invaded by the Confederate forces in the summer of 1861, and was held( by them until the next spring, when they were forced back into Tennessee. In the summner of 1862, it was again invaded by the Confederates. Several severe battles were fought on its soil, and it was frequently entered and harassed by raiding parties. CITIES AND TOWNS.

Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns are, Louisville”

Lexington, Covington, Newport, Maysville, Henderson, Pad(lucall, Columbus, Hickman, Danville, and Paris. 803

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. FRANKFORT, The capital of the State, is situated in Franklin county, on the northeast bank of the Kentucky River, 60 miles fiom its mouth, 53 miles east of Louisville, and 5.50 miles west of Washington. Latitude 38~ 14’ N., longitude 84~ 40’ W. The site of the town is a deep valley, surrounded l)y abrupt hills. Towards the northeast it rises to a considerable height, and from this portion of the town views may b)e had of some most exquisite scenery. The city is regularly laid out, and is generally well built. Many of the houses are constructed of a fine limestone or marble which abounds in the vicinity. The general appearance of the city is hand some and picturesque. Tile State Capitol is a fine building of white marble. It stands onil an eminence near the centre of the town. Frankfort contains the Governor’s House, the State Penitentiary, the State Arsenal, a Court House, six churches, several good schools, the State Institution for Feeble Minded Children, and the Kentucky Military Institute. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with spring-water brought into the town in iron pipes. Two newspapers are published here. Il 1870, the population was 5396. The Kentucky River is 100 yards wide at Frankfort, and is spanned by a chain bridge which connects the city with the suburb of Southl Frankfort. Steainers ascend to the city, which is the centre of anll active trade. The river here flows through a deep channel of lime.stone rock, and is noted for its l)eautifill scenery. Railroads connect Frankfort with Louisville, Cincinnati, Nashville, and the other cities of the Union. Frankfort was established by Act of the Legislature of Virginia, in 1786. It was made the capital of Kentucky in 1792. During the civil war, it was captured by the Confederate cavalry, on the 6th of September, 1862. LOUISVILLE, The largest city in the State, is situated in Jefferson county, on the south or left b-)ank of the Ohio River, at the head( of the falls, 51 miles west of Frankfort, 625 miles by the course of the river belov Pittsburg, 394
miles above the mouthl of the Ohio, and 590 miles west-by-south from Washington. The city is built on a spacious sloping plain, 70 feet above low 804

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KENTrUCKY. FIRANKF OIRT. water mark, and is laid out with regularity, the streets, which are firom 60 to 120 feet in width, intersecting at rightangles in a direction with and from the river. Ten streets run parallel with the river, and thirty streets intersect them. Along the river shore are extensive wharves. The streets are generally well paved, and are in many instances shaded with trees. The general appearance of the city is bright and attractive, and here are to be seen some of the handsomest buildings inll the West. The surrounding country is very beautiful. The principal public buildlings are the City EHall, the Court Ilouse, the Customr House, and the Jalson)ic Hatll, all of which are handsome strnctures. The schools of Louisville have always been regarded as among the best in the country. Its public schools are perhaps the oldest ill the West. There are a number of public schools for.ptli sexes, and several flourishing private senminaries. The higher schools are the Uiiveersity of Louisville, an(l the Medical In)stitute. There is a Law School connected with the University. The Mercantile Library is a flourishing institution with a good collection of books; and the 1iistoi-ical Society possesses many interesting documents relating to tlhe early history of the State. The Benevolent Institutions are well managed.

They are the State Asylum for the Blind, whose handsome buildings were erected partly by the contributions of the citizens; the State Marine Asyluia, tAwo 805

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. LOUISVILLE. Orphan Asylums, and several societies for the relief of the poor and suffering. The city contains about 40 churches, and about 12 newspaper and 4 magazinie offices; and is lighted with gas, and supplied with water from the Ohio River. It possesses an efficient police force, and a steamr fire engine service. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 100,753. Louisville is connected with all parts of the country by railway. The Ohio is here crossed by a magnificent railway bridge, which gives the city uinb)roken communication with tlie East and West. The navigation of the Ohio is interrupted at Louisville by the only falls which occur in the course of the stream.

These falls are very picturesque ill appearance. In high stages of the water, they entirely disappeal, and steamboats pass over them; but when the water is low, the whole width of the river, which is scarcely less than a mile, has the appearance of a great many broken rivers of foamn, making their way over the rocks. The river is divided by a fine island, which adds to the beauty of the scene. To overcome the obstruction caused 806

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KENTUCKY. by the falls, a canal was cut around them, in 1833. It is 221
miles long, 50 feet wide, 10 feet deep, with a total lockage of 22 feet.

It was cut through the solid limtnestome rock, and cost $750,000. The city carries on a heavy river trade, both above and below the falls. Its wharves are at all times thronged with steamers and other river craft, carrying to and fro a merchandise inferior only to that coming and going from Pittsburg and Cincinnati. The principal exports are tobacco, bagging, rope, cordage, spirits, pork, flax, hemp, live stock, and lmachinery. The value of the commerce of the city is estimated at from $80,000,000 to $100,000,000 per annum. A large number of steamers engaged in the river trade are owned in the city. The city is also largely engaged in manufacturing enterprises. It has a number of machine shops and founderies; several large steam bagging factories, rope walks, cotton and woollen factories, flouring mills, tobacco factories, distilleries, breweries, and agricultural implement factories, whose aggregate production makes up a large portion of its industry. The city has grown rapidly in wealth and population during the last ten years. Louisville was laid out in 1773, but no settlement was made on the spot till 1778, when a blockhouse was built. In 17 80, the town was established by an Act of the Virginia Legislature. In 1800, the population amounted( to 600. The settlement suffered considerably in its infancy from the incursions of the Indians, but grew rapidly after the close of the second war withl England.

COVINGTON, The second city of the State, is situated in Kenton county, on the south bank of the Ohio and the west bank of the Licking, at the confluence of those rivers, and immediately opposite the citv of Cincinnati, Ohio, with which it is connected by a suspension bridge. It is also connected with the city of Newport on the opposite side of the Licking by a suspension bridge. It is 60 miles north-northeast of Frankfort. The city is built on a beautiful plain extending back from the river, and the streets are so arranged as to appear from the hills ba(ck of Cincinnati as a continuation of that city. The city is well built and presents a handsome appearance from the river. Manv persons doing business in Cincinnati reside here. The city is lighted with gas and supplied with water, and is connected with Cincinnati by a street railway. It contains about 10 churches, several good public and private sclhools, and a newspaper office. It is the seat of the 807

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. WJestern Theological Seminary, a richly endowed institution under the direction of the Baptists. It contains a number of rollicng mills, pork houses, and inanufactories of hemp, silk, and tobacco. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 24,505. Covington has direct railway connection with Frankfort and Louisville. NEWPORT, The third city of the State, is situated in Campbell county, on tlle south bank of the Ohio, and on the east bank of the Licking River, immediately opposite Cincinnati and Covington. It is connected with Covington by a handsome suspension bridge across the Licking. It is beautifully situated, possessing an advantage over either of the neighbll)oring cities in this respect. It is occupied principally with resi dences, many of which are very handsome. It contains several schools, about 12 churches, and a newspape? office. Several large rolling mills, iron founderies, and steam mnills, and a manufactory of silk goods, are located here. An arsenal and barracks of the United States army are located here at the junction of the two rivers. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied withl pure water. In 1870, the population was 15,087.

LEXINGTON, The fourth city of the State, is situated in Fayette county, on the Town Fork of the Elkhorn River, 25 miles southeast of Frankfort, 94
miles east of Louisville, and 81 miles south of Cincinnati. It is beautifully situated in the heart of a lovely country, and is one of the prettiest and wealthiest cities in the State. It is regularly laid out in rectangular blocks, with wellpaved streets bordered with ornamental trees. It is one of the best built towns in the WVest, many of the put)blic and private buildings being noted for their beauty. The surrounding, country is occupied with elegant country seats, and adds very much to the general appearance of Lexington. Lexington is noted for the excellent schools which it contains. The public and private schools are in flourishing condition. Transylvaizia (,7ziversity is located here, and is regarded as one of the best schools in the West. Its law and medical schools are largely attended. Its library numbers over 25,000 volumes. The city also contains a handsotne Courdt House, the State Lunatic Asyltm, about 12 churches, and several newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas and supplied with pure water. It is largely en 808

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KENTUCKY. gaged in the manufacture of bagging, ropes, iron, brass, silver ware, carriages, and machinery. It is connected by railway withl all parts of the State. It is governed( by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 14,801. About a mile and a half from Lexington is A8shland, the home of Henry Clay. Tlhe city contains a handsome monument to his memory, erected in part by the State. Lexingoton was founded in 1776. It appears that a party of hunters, in 1775, while encamped on the spot where Lexington is nowv built, heard of the first conflict between the Britishl and Piovincitl forces at Lexing,ton, MAass. In commemoration of this event, they called the l)lace of their encampment Lexington. The town was incorporated by V/irginia in 1782, and was for several years the capital of Kientulcky. In 1787, the publication of the Keituce,-y Gazette was be,gun; and in 1798 Ti afsylvafiia University was established. MISCELLANY.

ADVENTURES OF DANIEL BOONE. WRITTEN BY tIMSELF. It was on the 1st of May, 1769, that I resigned my domestic happiness, and left my family and peaceable habitation on the Yadkin River, in North Carolina, to wander through tlhe wilderness of America, in quest of the country of Kentucky, in company withl John Finley, John Stuart, Joseplh Holden, James Monay, and Williamn Cool. On the 7thl of June, after travelling in a western direction, we found ourselves on Red River, where John Finley had formerly been trading with the Indians, and from the top of an eminence saw withl pleasure the beautiful level of Kentucky. For some time we had experienced the most uncomfortable weather. We now encamped, made a shelter to defend us from the inclement season, and began to lujnt. and reconnoitre the country. We found abundance of wild beasts in this vast forest. The buffaloes were more numerous than cattle in the settlements, browsing on the leaves of the cane, or cropping, the hlerbange on these extensive plains. We saw hundreds in a drove, and the numbers about the saltsprings were amazing. In tlhis forest, the habitation of beasts of every American kind, we hunted with great success until December. On the 22d of December, John Stuart and I had a pleasing ramble; but fortune changed the dclay at the close of it. We passed through a great forest, in whicll stood myriads of trees, some gay with blossoms, others rich with fruits. Nature was here a series of wonders and a find of delight. Here she displayed her ingenuity and industry in a variety of flowers and fruits, beautifully colored, elegantly sihapled. and charimingly flavored(; and we were favored with numberless animals presenting tlhemselves perpetually to our view. In the decline of the day, near Kentucky River, as we ascended the brow of a small hill, a number of 809

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. Indians rushed out of a canebrake and made us prisoners. The Indians plundered us, and kept us in confinement seven days. During this time, we discovered no uneasiness or desire to escape, which made them less suspicious; but in the dead of night, as we lay by a large fire in a thick canebrake, when sleep had locked up their senses, my situation not disposing me to rest, I gently awoke my companion. We seized this favorable opportunity and departed, directing our course toward the old camp, but found it plundered, and our company destroyed or dispersed.

About this time, my brother, with another adventurer, who came to explore the country shortly after us, were wandering through the forest, and accidentally came upon our camp. Notwithstanding our unfortunate circumstances, and our dangerous situation, surrounded with hostile savages, our meeting fortunately in the wilderness gave us the most sensible satisfaction. Soon after this my companion in captivity, John Stuart, was killed by the savages, and the man who came with my brother, while on a private excursion, was soon after attacked and killed by the wolves. We were now in a edangerous and helpless situation, exposed daily to perils and death, among savages and wild beasts, not a white man in the country but ourselves. Althouglh many hundreds of miles from our families, in the howling wilderness, we did not continue in a state of indolence, but hunted every day, and prepared a little cottage to defend us firom the winter. On the 1st of’ MIay, 1770, my brother returned home for a new recruit of horses and ammunition, leaving me alone, without bread, salt, or sugar, or even a horse or a dog. I passed a few (lays uncomfortably.

The idea of a beloved wife and family, and their anxiety on my account, would have disposed me to melancholy if I had further indulged the thioughlt. One day I undertook a tour through the country, when the diversities and beauties of nature I met with in this charming season expelled every gloomy thought. Just at the close of the day, the gentle gales ceased; a profound calm ensued; not a breath shook the tremulous leaf. I had gained the summit of a commanding ridge, and, looking around withl astonishing delight, beheld the ample plains and beauteous tracts below. On one hand, I surveyed the famous Ohio rolling in silent dignity, and marking the western boundary of Kentucky with inconceivable grandeur.

At a vast distance, I beheld the mountains lift their venerable brows and penetrate the clouds. All things were still. I kindled a fire near a fountain of sweet water, and feasted on the loin of a buck which I hlad killed a few hours before. The shades of’ night soon overspread the hlemisplhere, and the earth seemed to gasp after the hovering moistire. At a distance I frequently heard the hideous yells of savages. My excursion had fatigued my body and amused my mind. I laid me down to sleep, and awoke not until the sun had chased away the night. I continued this tour, and in a few days explored a considerable part of the country, each day equally pleasing as the first after which I returned to my old camp, which had not been disturbed in my absence. I could not confine my lodging to it, but often reposed in thick canebrakes to avoid the savages, who I believe frequently visited my camp, but, fortunately for me, in my absence. No populous city, with all its varieties of commerce and stately structures, could afford such pleasure to my mind as the beauties of nature I found in tils country. Until the 27thl of July, I spent my time in an uninterrupted scene of sylvan pleasures, whlen my brother, to my great felicity, met me according to appoint 810

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KENTUCKY. ment at our old camp. Soon after we left the place, and proceeded to the Cum berland River, reconnoitering that part of the country, and giving names to the different rivers. In Marchl, 1771, I returned home to my family, being determined to bring them as soon as possible, at the risk of my life and fortune, to reside in Ken tucky, which I esteemed a second Paradise. On my return, I found my family in happy circumstances. I sold my farm on the Yadkin and what goods we could niot carry with us, and, on the 2.tll of Sep tember, 1773, we took leave of our friends and proceeded on our journey to Kentucky, in company with five more families, and 40 men that joined us inll Powell’s Valley, which is 150 miles fronm the new settled parts of Kentucky. But this promising beginning was soon overcast with a cloud of advaersity. On the 10th of October, the rear of our company was attacked by a party of Indians, who killed 6, and wounded one man. Of these, my oldest son was one that fell in the action. Though we repulsed the enemy, yet this unhlappy affair scattered our cattle and l)rougllit us into extreme difficulty. We returned 40 miles, to the settlement on Clench River. We had passed over two mountains, Powell and Walden’s, and were approaching Cumberland Mountain, when this adverse fortune overtook us. These mountains are in the wilderness, in passing from the old settlement in Virginia to Kentucky; they range in a southwest and northeast direction; are of great length and breadth, and not Iar distant from each other. Over them nature has formed passes less difficult than miiglht be ex pected from the view of such huge piles. The aspect of these cliffs is so wild and horrid that it is impossible to behold them without horror. Until the 6th of June, 1774, I remained with my family on the Clench, when myself and another person were solicited by Governor Dunmore, of Virginia, to conduct a number of surveyors to the falls of Ohio. This was a tour of 800 miles, and took 62 days. On my return, Governor Dunmore gave me the command of three garrisons during the campaign against the Shlawnees. In March, 1775, at the solicitation of a number of gentlemen of North Carolina, I attended their treaty at Wataga with the Cherokee Indians, to purchase the lands on the south side of the Kentucky River. After this, I undertook to mark out a road in the best passage from the settlements through the wilderness to Kentucky. Having collected a number of enterprising men,.well armed, I soon began this work. We proceeded until we came within 15 miles of where Boonsborough now stands, where the Indians attacked us, and killed 2, and wounded 2 more of our party. This was on the 22d of March, 1775. Two days after,ave were again attacked by them, when we had 2 more killed, and 3
wounded. After this, we proceeded on to Kentucky River without opposition.

On the 1st of April, we began to erect the fort of Boonsborough, at a salt lick 60 yards from the river, on the south side. On the 4thl, the Indians killed one of our men. On the 14th of June, having completed the fort, I returned to my family on the Clench, and whom I soon afterward removed to the fort. My wife and daughter were supposed to be the first white women that ever stood on the banks of Kentucky River. On the 24th of December, the Indians killed one of our men, and wounded another; and on the 15th of July, 1776, they took my daughter prisoner. I immediately pursued them with 8 men, and on the 16th overtook and engaged them. I killed 2 of them and recovered my daughter. 811

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Indians, having divided themselves into several parties, attacked in one day all our infant settlements and forts, doing a great deal of damnage. The hlus bandmen were ambushed and unexpectedly attacked while toiling in the field. They continued this kind of warfare until the 15th of April, 1777, when nearly 100 of them attacked the village of Boonsborougli, and killed a number of its in habitants. On the 16thl, Colonel Logan’s tort was attacked by 200 Indians. There were only 13 men in the fort, of whom the enemy killed 2, and wounded one. On the 20thll of August, Colonel Bowman arrived with 100 men from Virginia, with which additional force we had almost daily skirmishes with the Indians, who began now to learn the superiority of the ” long knife,” as they termed the Virginians; being out-genleralled in almost every action. Our affairs began now to wear a better aspect; the Indians no longer daring to face us in open field, but sought private opportunities to destroy us. On the 7thl of Februtary, 1778, while on a hunting excursion alone, I met a party of 102 Indians and 2 Frenchmen, marching to attack Boonsboroulgli.

They pursued and took me prisoner, and conveyed me to Old Chilicothle, the principal Indian town on Little Miami, where we arrived on the 18th of February, after an uncomfortable journey. On the O1thl of March, I was conducted to Detroit, and while there was treated with great humanity by Governor Hamilton, the British commander at that port, and Intendant for Indian Affairs. The Indians had such an affection for me, that they refused ~100 sterling, offered them by the Governor, if they would consent to leave me with him, that he might be enabled to liberate me on my parole. Several English gentlemen, then at Detroit, sensible of my adverse fortune, and touched with sympathy, generously offered to supply my wants, which I declined with many thanks, adding that I never expected it would be in my power to recompense such unmerited generosity. On the 10th of April, the Indians returned with me to Old Chilicothe, where we arrived on the 25th. This was a long and fatiguing march,- although through an exceeding fertile country, remarkable for springs and streams of water. At Chlilicothe I spent my time as comfortably as I could expect; was adopted, according to their custom, into a family where I became a son, and had a great share in the affection of my new parents, brothers, sisters, and firiends. I was exceedingly familiar and firiendly with them, always appearing as cheerful and contented as possible, and they put great confidence in me. I often went a hunting with them, and frequently gained the applause for my activity at our shlootimg matches. I was careful not to exceed many of them in shooting, for no people are more envious than they in this sport. I could observe in their countenances and gestures the greatest expressions of joy when they exceeded me, and when the reverse happened, of envy. The Shawnee king took great notice of me, and treated me with profound respect, and entire firiendship, often intrusting me to hunt at my liberty. I frequently returned with the spoils of the woods, and as often presented some of what I had taken to him, expressive of duty to my sovereign. My food and lodging were in common with them; not so good, indeed, as I could desire, but necessity made everything acceptable.

I now began to meditate an escape, and carefully avoided giving suspicion.

I continued at Chilicothe until the 1st day of June, when I was taken to the salt springs on Sciotha, and there employed ten days in the manufacturing of salt. During this time, I hunted with my Indian miasters, and found the land, for a great extent about this river, to exceed the soil of Kentucky. 812

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KENTUCKY. On my return to Chilicothe, 150 of the choicest Indian warriors were ready to march against Boonsboroughl. They were painted and armed in a frightful maln ner. This alarmed me, and I determined to escape. On the 26thll of June, before sunrise, I went off secretly, and reached Boons borou,lgh on the 30th, a journey of 160 miles, during which I had only one meal. I found our fortress in a bad state, but we immediately repaired our flanks, gates, posterns, and formed double bastions, which we completed in ten days. One of my fellow-prisoners escaped after me, and brought advice, that on account of my flight, the Indians had put off their expedition for three weeks. About the 1st of August, I set out with 19 men to surprise Point Creek-town, on Sciotlia, within 4 miles of which we fell in with 40

Indians going against Boonsborough. We attacked them, and they soon gave way, without any loss on our part. The enemy had one killed and two wounded. We took three horses and all their baggage. The Indians having evacuated their town, and gone altogether against Boonsborough, we returned, passed them on the 6th, and on the 7th ar rived safe at Boonsborough. On the 9thl, the Indian army, consisting of 444 men, under the command of Captain Duquesne, and 11 other Frenchmen, and their chliefs, arrived and sum monled the fort to surrender. I requested two days’ consideration, which was granted. During this we broulght in through the posterns all the horses and other cattle we could collect. On the 9tlh, in the evening, I informed their commander that we were determnlined to defend the fort while a man was living. They then proposed a treaty: they would withdraw. The treaty was held within 60 yards of the fort, as we suspected the savages. The articles were agreed to and signed, when the Indians told us, as it was their custom for two Indians to shake hands with every white man in the treaty, as an evidence of firiendship. We agreed to this also. They immediately grappled us to take us prisoners, but we cleared ourselves of them, though surrounded by hundreds, and gained the fort safe, except one man, who was wounded by a heavy fire from the enemy. The savages now began to undermine the fort, beginning at the watermark of Kentucky River, which is 60 yards fromn the fort; this we discovered by the water being made muddy by the clay. We countermined them by cutting a trench across their subterraneous passage. The enemy, discovering this by the clay we threw out of the fort, desisted. On the 20thl of August, they raised the siege, during which we had 2 men killed, and 4 wounded. We lost a number of cattle. The loss of the enemy was 37
killed, and a much larger nulilber wounded. WVe picked up 125 pounds of their bullets, beside what stuck in the logs of the fort. In July, 1779, during my absence, Colonel Bowman, with 160 men, went against the Sliawnees of Old Chilicothle. He arrived undiscovered. A battle ensued, which lasted until 10 in the morning, when Colonel Bowman retreated 30
miles. The Indians collected all their strength and pursued him, when another engagement ensued for two hours, not to Colonel Bowman’s advantage. Colonel ‘iarrod proposed to mount a number of horses, and break the einelnry’s line, who at this time fought with remarkable fury. This desperate measure had a happy effect, and the savages fled on all sides.

In these two engagements we had 9 en killed and one wounded. Enemy’s loss uncertain. Only two scalps were taken. 813

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. June 23d, 1780, 500 Indians and Canadians, under Colonel Bird, attacked Riddle and Martain’s station, and the forks of Licking River, with 6 pieces ot artillery. They took all the inhabitants captive, and killed one man and two womien, loading the others with the heavy baggage, and such as failed in the journey were tomahlawked. The hostile disposition of the savages caused General Clarke, the commandant at the falls of Ohio, to march with his regiment and the armed force of the country against Peccaway, the principal town of the Shawnees, on a branch of the Great Mliamii, which he attacked with great success, took 70
scalps, and reduced the town to ashles, with the loss of 17 men. About this time, I returned to Kentucky with my family; for, during my captivity, my wife, thinking me killed by the Indians, had transported my family and goods, on horses, through the wilderness, amidst great dangers, to her fathler’s house in North Carolina. On the 6thl of October, 1780, soon after my settling again at Boonsborough, I went with my brother to the Blue Licks, and on our return hlie was shot by a party of Indians, who followed me by the scent of a dog, which I shot, and escaped. The severity of the winter caused great distress in Kentucky, the enemy, during the summer, having destroyed most of the corn. The inhabitants lived chiefly on buffalo’s flesh. In the spring Of 1782, the Indians harassed us. In May, they ravished, killed, and scalped a woman and her two daughters, near Ashton’s station, and took a negro prisoner. Captain Ashton pursued them with 25 men, and in an engagement, which lasted two hours, his party were obliged to retreat, having 8 killed, and 4 mortally wounded. Their brave commander fell in the action. On August 18th, two boys were carried off from Major Hoy’s station. Captain Holder pursued the enemy with 17
men, who were also defeated, with the loss of 7 killed, and 2 wounded. Our affairs became more and more alarming. The savages infested the country, and destroyed the whites as opportunity presented. In a field near Lexington, an Indian shot a man, and, Funning to scalp himn, was himself shot from the fort, and fell dead upon the ground. All the Indian na tions were now united against us. On August 15th, 500 Indians and Canadians came against Briat’s station, 5 miles from Lexington. They assaulted the fort, and killed all the cattle round it; but being repulsed, they retired the third day, having about 80 killed; their wounded uncertain. The garrison had 4 killed, and 9 wounded. On August 10th, Colonels Todd and Trigg, Major Harland and myself, speedily collected 176 men, well armed, and pursued the savages. TJhey had marched beyond the Blue Licks, to a remarkable bend of the main fork of the Licking River, about 43 miles from Lexington, where we overtook them an the 19th. The savages, observing us, gave way, and we, ignorant of their numbers, passed the river. When they saw our proceedings, having greatly the advantage in situation, they formed their line of battle from one end of the Licking to the other, about a mile from the Blue Licks. The engagement was close and warm for about 15 minutes, when we, being overpowered by numbers, were obliged to retreat, with a loss of 67 men, 7 of whom were taken prisoners. The brave and much-lamented Colonels Todd and Trigg, Major Harland, and my second son, were among the dead. We were afterward informed that the Indians, on numbering their dead, finding that they had 4 more killed than we, 4 of our people, they had taken, were given up to their young warriors, to be put to death after their barbarous manner. 81,4

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KENTUCKY. On our retreat, we were met by Colonel Logan, who was hastening to join us with a number of well-armed men. This powerful assistance we wanted on the day of the battle. The enemy said, one more fire from us would have made them give way. I cannot reflect upon this dreadful scene without great sorrow. A zeal for the defence of their country led these heroes to the scene of action, though with few men, to attack a powerful army of experienced warriors. When we gave way, they pursued us with the utmost eagerness, and in every quarter spread destruc tion. The river was difficult to cross, and many were killed in the fight, some just entering the river, some in the water, others after crossing, in ascending the cliffs. Some escaped on horseback, a few on foot; and being dispersed everywhere, in a few hours brought the melancholy news of this unfortunate battle to Lexington. Many widows were now made. The reader may guess what sorrow filled the hearts of the inhabitants, exceeding anything that I am able to describe. Being reinforced, we returned to bury the dead, and found their bodies strewed everywhere, cut and mangled in a dreadful manner. This mournful scene exhibited a horror almost unparalleled; some torn and eaten by wild beasts; those in the river by fishes; all in such a putrid condition that one could not be distinguished firom another. When General Clarke, at the falls of the Ohio, heard of our disaster, he ordered an expedition to pursue the savages. We overtook them within 2
miles of their town, and we should have obtained a great victory had not some of them nmet us when about 200 poles from their camp. The savages fled in the utmost disorder, and evacuated all their towns. We burned to ashes Old Chilicothle, Peccaway, New Chilicothe, and Willstown; entirely destroyed their corn and other fruits, and spread desolation through their country. We took 7 prisoners and 15 scalps, and lost only 4 men, 2 of whom were accidentally killed by ourselves. This campaign damped the enemy, yet they made secret incursions. In October, a party attacked Crab Orchard, and one of them, being a good way before the others, boldlv entered a house in which were only a woman and her children, and a negro man. The savage used no violence, but attempted to carry off the negro, who happily proved too strong for him, and threw him on the ground, and in the struggle the woman cut off his head with an axe, while her little daughter shut the door. The savages instantly came up, and applied their tomahawks to the door, when the mother putting an old rusty gun-barrel through the crevice, the savages immediately went off. From that time till the happy return of peace between the United States and Great Britain, the Indians did us no mischief. Soon after this, he Indians desired peace. Two darling sons and a brother I have lost by savage hands, which have also taken from me 40 valuable horses, and abundance of cattle. Many dark and sleepless nights have I spent, separated from the cheerful society of men, scorched by the summer’s sun, and pinched by the winter’s cold, an instrument ordained to settle the wilderness. DANIEL Boox. Fayette county, Kentucky.

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0 H I 0. Ara…… 39,964 Square Miles. …. 2,339,511 …. 2,665,002

Area,……. Population in 1860,…. Population in 1870,…. THE State of Ohlio is situated between 38~ 32’ and 42~ N. latitude, and between 80~ 35’

and 84~ 40’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Michigan and Lake Erie, on the east by Pennsylvania and West Virginia, on the south by West Virginia and Kenttucky, and on the west by Indiana. Its extreme length from north to south is about 200 miles, and its width about 195 miles.

TOPOGRAPHY. The centre of the State is occupied by a level country elevated about 1000 feet above the level of the sea, and the north central part of the State is crossed by a ridge of hills which separate the waters which flow into Lake Erie fromn those which flow into the Ohio River. A second slope interrupts the Ohio slope in the southl central part of the State, and from this ridge the lower part of the State is a fine rugg,ed country, which rises into a range of bold hils along the Ohio River. There are some prairie lands in the centre an(l northwest, and in the latter portion is a large tract of great fertility, called the Black Swamp, a considerable part of which is heavily timbered. lMuchl of the country in the neighborhood of Lake Erie is marshy. Lakce Erie, already described, forms the greater part of the northern boundary, and receives the waters of’ the Alaumee, Sandusky, Hiuron, and Cuyahloga. Withl the exception of the Maumee, which has its source in Ind(liana, all these streams rise in and flow throuigh this State. The principal towns on the lake are Cleveland and Sandusky. San 816

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0111OHIO. dusky Bay extends inland for about 20 miles. There are several good harbors on the lake. The Maumee is the only navigable river emptying into the lake. Steamers ascend it for 18 miles. The Ohio Rive) forms the greater part of the eastern, and the whole of the southern boundary, first touching the State about 50 miles below its head, and flows by it for a distance of about 470 miles. It is navigable the whole distance for large steamers for onehalf of the year. Its principal tributaries, beginning on the east, are the Muskingui, Scioto, Little Miami, and Jliaimi rivers.

They vary in length from 110 to 200 miles. The Muskingum is navigable, by means of danms and locks, to Zanesville, a distance of 70 miles. At high water, boats ascend to Coshocton, 30 miles above Zanesville. The others are not navigable at all. They flow through a beautiful and highly productive country, and furnish an abundance of excellent waterpower.

There are several islands belonging to this State in the southwest end of Lake Erie. The principal of these is Kelley’s Island, which produces a fine quality of wine. MINERALS. Coal and iron are the principal minerals of the State. Salt springs are numerous, and marble and lime are found in large quantities. The first two are very abundant, and are of an excellent quality. In 1860, $2,327,621 worth of pig-iron were produced in Ohio, and $1,539,713 worth of coal. This made Ohio the second iron and coal producing State in the Union. CLIMATE. In the southern part of the State, the climate is mild. Snow does not lie long upon the ground. The climate of the northern part is rigorous, and is quite as severe as that of the Atlantic States of the same latitude. Severe droughts sometimes occur in Ohio, and cause considerable damage to the crops, but they are not of frequent occurrence. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil is fertile, there being very little land in the State that cannot be brought under profitable cultivation. Indeed, it is to the extremely favorable character of her soil that Ohio owes her present 52 81,

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. proud position in the Union, having grown and prospered more rapidly than any other State. Sixty years ago, a vast forest covered almost the entire country between the Virginia line and Lake Erie. Now the same area is occupied by one of the most important States of the Union, possessing a population of nearly 3,000,000 souls, and ranking amongst the first members of the Confederacy in her wealth and resources. Wine raising is now a very important interest along the Ohio River. In 1870, there were about 15,000,000 acres of improved lands in the State. In the same year, the agricultural statistics, as reported by the Secretary of State, were as follows: Bushels of wheat,…. ” Indian corn,.

” oats,…. barley,…. rye,……. buckwheat,.. Irish potatoes,2 ” sweet potatoes,. flax seed,. apples,.. peaches,… Tons of hay,……. i clover hay,…. Pounds of tobacco,… flax,…… ” butter,… cheese,…. maple sugar, e7 wool, grapes, Gallons of wine…… sorghum miolasses, Number of horses,…. mules,…. sheep,…. swine,…. ” cattle,…. COMMERCE AND

MANUFACTURES. This State possesses little foreign commerce, but its river and lake trade is immense, and is estimated at over $150,000,000 annually.

The river trade is the more important part of this. The number of steamers entering and clearing from Cincinnati is about 4000 each way annually. 818

26,499,729 62,443,346 24,417,799 1,689,416 852,722 223,766 10,274,605

119,746 611,046 15,518,685 1,444,523 1,7S4,947 360,268 15,943, 11 G

18,723,377 38,783,607 20,520,168 3,302,714 19,292,858 3,794,899 155,535

1,777,100 704,664 22,057 5,052,028 1,720,113 1,521,421

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OHIO. The manufactures of this State, though still in their infancy, are growing in importance. In 1860, Ohio contained 10,710 establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They enmployed a capital of $58,000,000, and 81,200 hands, consuming raw material worth $70,000,000, and yielding an annual product of $125,000,000, making this the third State in the Union in respect to the value of goods produced.

The principal products were valued as follows: Cotton goods,. Woollen goods,. Leather,……… Rolled iron,….. Steam engines and machinery, Agricultural implements,0 Sawed and planed lumber, Flour,……

Salt,……. Liquors,………. Boots and shoes, *…. Furniture,……

INTlTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, Ohio contained 3402 miles of completed railroads, constructed at a cost of $135,332,000, ranking second in the list of States with respect to the total length of its roads, and fourth with respect to their cost. The State is a perfect network of railways, no town or village being more than a few miles from a railroad depot. Direct lines lead from all the points of importance to the principal cities of the Union. The energy and foresight displayed by the State in the construction of these roads have greatly added to its wealth and prosperity. Ohio was the first Western State to engage in the construction of canals. In 1860, there were 956 miles of canal navigation in the State.

In spite of the abundance of railroad transportation, the canals of Ohio still continue to occupy an important position in the commerce of the State. EDUCATION. Ohio is one of the most prominent States in the Union in respect to its educational system. Schools were established in this State soon after its first settlement, and in 1804, the University of Ohio was founded at Athens. In 1867, there were 26 colleges, with 4783 819 $629,500

692,333 2,799,239 692,000 4,80-5,005 2,690,943 5,600,000 ‘)7,130,000

277,000 6,109,000 3,623,827 8,703,60i-i …… …… … …

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. students; 43 female seminaries, with 4217 students; 65
academies and normal schools, with 6167 pupils; and 647 private schools, with 26,450 pupils. In 1870, there were 11,401 public schools, with 719,902 )pupils. The State has a permanent school fund, amounting to $3,334,500. The interest of this is applied to the schools, and the remainder of the sum needed for them each year made up by taxes, fines, licences, etc. In 1870, the amount expended on the schools was $4,960,771.

Tile general supervision of the free school system of the State is vested in a Commissioner of Schools, who is elected by the people for three years. The cities, towns, and( incorporated villages are controlled each by a local Board of Education chosen by the people thereof. A State Board of Examiners alone has power to grant certificates of competency to teachers. These certificates, unless revoked by the Board, are good for the lifetime of the holder. In 1860, the State contained 3082 libraries, with 790,666 volumes. Of these 469 were public libraries. In the same year there were 256 political, 37 religious, and 24 literary newspapers and periodicals published in Ohio, making a total of 317. Of these 24 were daily, 4 semiweekly, 8 triweekly, 260 weekly, 41 monthly, and 3 annual.

They had an annual aggregate circulation of 71,767,742 copies. PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS. The public institutions are under the supervision of a Board of State Charities. The Penitentiary is located at Columbus. It is one of the best institutions of its kind in the Union, and is provided with handsome and commodious buildings. There is a school attached to the prison, in which the convicts are taught the rudiments of aplain education. The proceeds of the labor of the prisoners more than supports the institution, rendering it inexpensive to the State. In 1866, there were 860 convicts confined here. The Ohio Reform School is located in Fairfield county, six miles south of Lancaster. It is provided with ample buildings, and a farm of 1170 acres. It is considered one of the most perfect establishments in the Union. In 1870, it contained 335 boys. The Institution for the Education of the Blind, and the Institution for the Education of the Deaf and Dumb, are located at Columbus. 820

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OHIO. In November, 1870, the former contained 119 pupils, and the latier 312 pupils. There are three Lunatic Asylums in the State; the Central Ohio Asylum, at Columbus; the Northern Ohio Asylum, at Newburgh; and the Southern Ohio Asylumn, at Davton. The first was destroyed by fire on the 17th of November, 1868, and six of the patients perished in the flames.

The remaining institutions, in 1870, contained 878 patients. In the same year there were in the county infirmaries and jails 1176 insane persons.

The Asylum for Idiots contains 170 patients. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 5210 churches in Ohio, and the value of church property was $12,988,762. FINANCES. In January, 1871, the State debt amountedl to $9,752,136. During the year 1870, the receipts of the Treasury were $4,837,990, and the expenditures $4,071,953. In the same year there were 139 iNational banks, with a capital of $22,573,881, doing business in the State. GOVERINMENT. Every white male citizen of the United States, 21
years old, who has resided in the State one year, is entitled to vote.

Persons in the military or naval service of the United States, idiots, and insane persons are excluded from the ballot. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, Comptroller, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate and a House of Representatives, all chosen by the people. The Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Treasurer, Secretary of State, and AttorneyGeneral, and members of the Legislature are elected for two years.

The Comptroller and Auditor are elected for four years. There is also a Board of Public \Vorks, consisting of 3 members, elected for 3 years, one member retiring each year. The courts of the State are the Supreme Court, consisting of five judges, elected by the people, the judge with the shortest term being the Chief Justice, the Courts of Common Pleas, District Courts, and Probate Courts in each county. 821

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. The seat of Government is established at Columbus.

The State is divided into 88 counties. HISTORY. The territory now embraced in the State of Ohio was first settled by the English, who, in 1749, built a trading-post upon the Great /nliami River. Previous to this, the French had explored the territory, and had established a trading-post on the lower Ohio, at a point waithin the present limits of the State of Illinois. They were jealous of the establishment of the English post on the Miami, and incited the Indians to join in an attack upon it. They destroyed it ill 1752, after a severe fight, and carried the traders into captivity in Canada. For some years the territory was in dispute, between the French and English. The Ohio Company claimed the right, under the charter, whichl they held from the English king, to establish trading-posts along the Ohio, and the French were very active in their efforts to put a stop to the advances of their English rivals. It was this quarrel which first brought WMashington forward is a military leader. The territorv was inhabited by Indian tribes, who were friendly to the French, and hostile to the English. They made frequent incursions across the Ohio against the settlements of the whites in Virginia, and were in their turn frequently attacked iu their own homes by the English. During the Revolution, they were the allies of the British, and waged a bitter warfare upon the western settlements of the Americans. This gave rise to several memorable campaigns by the American forces west of the Ohio, in which the savages were severely punished. After the close of the Revolutionary War, several of the States became involved in disputes as to the right of soil in this territory, which were only settled by the cession of all the State claims to the United States. V irginia, in ceding her claims, reserved nearly four millions of acres, near the falls of the Ohio, as bounty lands for her State troops, and Connecticut reserved a similar tract, near Lake Erie, which was sold to actual settlers. The sales of these lands laid the foundation of the school fund of Connecticut. In 1788, the town of Marietta was founded by the New England Ohio Company, who purchased the lands on which they located their emigrants, from the United States Board of Treasury. In 1791, the town of Gallipolis was settled by 168 French emigrants. Other set S22

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OHIO0. tiers now came out, and the territory commenced to assume the cha racter of a permanent settlemuent. The Indians had by this time become very troublesome. General Hlarmnar was sent against them with a considerable force, in 1790, but, although he inflicted considerable damage upon them, did not succeed in intimidating them. In 1791, General St. Clair, the Gov ernor of the Territory, marched against the Indian towns on the Maumee, with a force of 3000 men. He was surprised by the savages on his march, and his whl-ole army routed, after a desperate struggle, with a loss of more than 600 men. In 1794, General Anthony Wayne, of Revolutionary fame, was sent into the Indian country with a force of 3500 men. On the 20thl of August, he inflicted a crushing defeat upon them at the falls of the Maumee. After this he ravaged their country, and pressed tlhem so hard that they were glad to sue for peace, and for some years the territory was free from hostilities. By this time Cincinnati had been settled, and the country along the southwestern shore of Lake Erie was beginning to attract emigrants. The Miami country was thickly populated, and the shores of the Ohio were beginning to be dotted with farms. In 1799, the first Territorial Legislature assembled. Laws were passed confirming all that had been done by the Governor, and providing for the future security of the Territory. Williamn Henry Harrison, then Secretary of the Territory, was chosen a delegate to Congress. Measures were begun and vigorously prosecuted, during the next two years, for the purpose of securing the admission of the Territory into the Union. These efforts were crowned with success. Early in 1802, a Convention met at Chillicothe, and adopted a State Constitutionl, which was accepted by Congress, and on the 30th of April, 1802, Ohio was admitted into the Union as a sovereign State. In 1810, war broke out with the Indians, who, under the leadership of the famous chief Tecumseh, began a series of bloody outrages upon the whites. General Harrison, then Governor of the Territory of Indiana, marched against them and defeated them in the battle of Tippecanoe, in 1811. During the second war with England, the western frontiers suffered greatly from the British and Indians. Ohio bore her filll share in the struggle, and her sons were amongst the first to volunteer for service against the common foe. In 1816, the seat of Government was transferred from Chillicothe to Columbus, and, in 1817, the first steps were taken by the State for the construction of the canals which have added so much to her wealth. 823

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. STATE CAPITOL, AT COLUMBUS. After the treaty of 1815, the State grew with unparalleled rapidity. We have already shown the condition of Ohio at present, and can add nothing to the simple statement that this great and flourishing commonwealth but little more than half a century ago was “a howling wilderness.” During the Rebellion this state contributed 317,133 men to the service of the United States. CITIES AND

TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of Ohio are, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Dayton, Toledo City, Zanesville, Sandusky, Chillicotlhe, Hamilton, Springfield, Portsmouth, Steffienville, Brooklyn, Newark, Xenia, Piqua, Mansfield, Circleville, Marietta, Lancaster City, Mount Vernon, and Canton. COLIUMBUS, The capital and third city of the State, is situated in Franklin county, on the east bank of the Scioto River, 90 miles from its mouth, 120 miles northeast of Cincinnati, and 350
miles northwest of Washington. Latitude 390 57’ N.; longitude 83~ 3’ W.

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0111OHIO. The land on which the city is built rises gradually fromnt the river, and the streets are laid out at right anigles. Broad street extends from the river along the National Road to the east of the city, and is 120 ifeet wide; and High street, 100 feet wide, crosses Broad at rightangles. This is the principal business street. At the intersection of the two thoroughfares is a handsome public square of 10 acres. The streets are shaded with trees, and are well paved. Street railways connect the various points of the corporate limits. The city is well built, and many of the buildings are handsome and spacious. The State Cutpitol stands in the centre of the public square. It is a splendid edifice, 304 feet long by 184 feet wide. It is built of a fine white limestone resembling marble. The interior decorations are very fine. The State Penitentiary is located immnediately upon the bank of the river, and is built of Ohio marble. It is one of the most imposing structures in the State. The State Institution for the Blind, the Ohio Lultn(ttic Asylum, and the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, are handsome buildings. The city contains a number of public and private schools. The Starlinig lledical College is a flourishing institution. The Lutheran Church has a theological seminary here. There are about 26 churches and several newspaper offices in Columbus. The city is lighted with gas and is supplied with pure water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. It is one of the principal railway centres of the State, and is the seat of a large and active trade with the surrounding country. In 1870, the population was 33,745. In 1812, Columbus was selected as the site of the State capital. At this time it was a wilderness, but it grew rapidly from the first, but was still a small inland village when the State Government was removed to it in 1816. In 1820, it had 1400 inhabitants. The completion of the National Road to the city brought it into more direct communication with the rest of the country, and greatly accelerated its growth. CINCINNATI, The metropolis of the State, is situated in Hiamilton county, on the right or northern bank of the Ohio, opposite the mouth of the Licking River. It is 120 miles southwest of Columbus, 476 miles by water fiom Pittsburg,, 529 miles from the mouth of the Ohio, 1520 miles from New Orleans, 280 miles southeast of Chicago, and 610 miles west of Washington. It is the eighth city in respect of population in the United States, and the third city in the West. 825

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THL GREAT REPUBLIC. The city is beautifully located. It is in the centre of a lovely val ley, surrounded by hills. It occupies the whole of the first and second planes above the Ohio River, and extends over the greater part of the third, or still higher elevations of Mount Adams, Mount Au burn, Mount Washington, etc. The first of these planes or tables, called “the bottom,” is at an elevation of 50 feet above low-water mark; the second, called “the hill,” about 60 feet higher, and is densely built upon, being the thickest settled portion of the city. Above this are the hills of Mount Auburn, etc., 200 feet higher. Viewed from one of these last hills, the city appears to occupy the centre of an im miense basin, the view being in every direction terminated by swelling hills. The grade of these planes or terraces has for years been changing to conform to the general improvement of the city, and now affords the regular and facile ascent required by heavy draughts, as well as to permit the safe drainage of water from the upper terraces of the city. The city is regularly laid out, the streets crossing each other at rightangles. They are generally about 66 feet in width; are well graded and paved, and are in many cases lined with beautiful shade trees. Those running east and west are denominated Water, Front, Columbia, Pearl, Third, Fourth, etc.; while those running north and south are named Broadway, Sycamore, MIaint, Walnut, Western Row, etc. Main street extends from the steamboat landing on the river northwardly to the northern bound of the second plane. The steamboat landing covers an open area of about 10 acres, with a frontage of 1000 feet. The shore is paved from low-water mark, and is provided with wharfboats or floating wharves, which rise and fall with the river; in the height of which there is a great variation, the mean annual range from high to low water being about 50 feet. Pearl street, parallel with the river, is the great jobbing mart. Fourth street is the “Fifth Avenue” of the town, a long; wide, elegant, fashionable promenade upon the crown of the First Terrace, following the course of the river. Fifth street contains the markets, and displays a scene of busy life through an extent of three or four miles. Cincinnati is one of the best built cities in the country, and in its business portions especially will compare favorably with any American city. The improvement in this respect has been very marked during the last ten years. Many handsome residences lie within the city limits, and in the suburbs. The suburb of Clifton is one of the 826

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CINCINN ATI.

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I i i i i i I i i i i

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OHIO. VIEW ON FOURTH STREET, CINCINNATI. handsomest villages in the Union.

As in all western cities however, the buildings soon become tarnished and blackened by the coal smoke, the coal burned here being very soft, and throwing off a dense, black smoke. The public buildings give evidence of the rapid growth in wealth and importance of the city. The material generally employed in the best buildings is a fine freestone or sandstone, though white limestone is used to some extent. The Court Hoarse is a handsome edifice of white limestone, resembling marble. It cost $500,000.

The City Hall, the Custom House, the Melodeon Hall, Mlozart Hall, and the lJIasonic Hall, are the other prominent structures. The colleges, churches, and benevolent establishments of the city are among its principal ornaments. The schools are numerous, and are of a high character. There are a number of flourishing private schools and seminaries, and about 22 public schools, including two high schools in operation. The Colleye of St. Xavier, the Lane Theological Seminary (Presbyterian), the Fairmount Theoloqical Seminary, the Wesleyan Female College, 827

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and the Wtoodward and Ecectic iMedical Collegyes are the principal institutions of the higher class. Tlle Benevolent InstituLtions are, the Luna(tic Asylum, the Commer ci-t Hospital, the Cincinnati, St. Pete})‘s, St. Aloysius, and West Geirman PrIotestant Orphan Asylu?ms, the Widow’s Homne, the Asylum for Indi(/enit Pemales, the House of Refuge, the Hotel foe Invalids, the Longimew Asyltm, and the Almshou,se. They are among the best arrangecd and most efficient institutions in the country. There are 9 public libraries in Cincinnati, two of which are German. The Cincinnati Observatory is located on Mount Adams, and forms a conspicuous ob)ject inii any view of the city. It was built by the voluntary contributions of the citizens, the grounds being the gift of the late Nicllolas Longwortl). Under the ymaitgement of the late Professor Mitchell it was raised to a high degree of excellence and usefulness. The city contains 4 firstclass hotels, about 110 churches, 4
theatres, about 56 newspapers and periodicals, 8 of which are daily, and several large publishing houses. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with pure water from the Ohio River. Street railways connect its various portions, and it possesses an efficient police force, a police and firealarm telegraph, and a steam fire department. This city built the first steam fire-engine ever used in America. The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 thle population was 216,239. The Ohlio is crossed at Cincinnati by a magnificent suspension bridg,e, uniting Cincinnati with Covington, KTentucky, begun in 1856, and completed in 1867. The entire length of the bridge is 2252 feet; the distance between the towers 1057 fbet; height of the towers 230 feet; elevation of the floor at the middle 100 feet above low-water mark. The entire cost of the bridge was over 81,500,000. It is traversed by a street railway, connecting Cincinnati and Covington. It is an imposing and massive structure, and a great ornament to the city. There are 10 cemeteries in the vicinity, the principal of which is the Spring Grove Cemetery, a very beautiful “city of the dead.” Besides its river connections, Cincinnati has direct communication by railway with all parts of the State and Union.

The Miami Canal connects it with Lake Erie, furnishing also excellent waterpower for manufacturing purposes. Nine lines of railway enter the city, and through trains run from Cincinnati to all important points east and west. 828

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OlIIO. i{-14 ‘Itli ______________________ ____________‘1 4 III il4’it\l’ THE TYLER DAVIDSON FOUNTAIN. The river trade of Cincinnati is enormous, and is on the increase in spite of the activity of the various railway lines. During the year ending August 31, 1864, 435 steamboats and barges were engaged in this trade, or about 121 more than were employed in 1854. In the same year the arrivals of steamers numbered 2936, though the trade with the Lower Mississippi and iNew Orleans was destroyed by the war. Since the close of the war, and the opening of the Mississippi trade, the city has resumed its full s’hare in this source of wealth. Cincinnati ranks next to Chicago as a pork market of the Republic. An English writer, who visited Cincinnati a few years ago, humorously says of this branch of its industry: “The great business of Cincinnati is hog killing now, as it used to be in the old days of which I have so often heard. It seems to be an established fact that in this portion of the world the porcine genus are all hogs. One never hears of a pig. With us a trade in hogs and pigs is subject to some little contumely. There is a feeling, which has perhaps never been expressed in words, but which certainly exists, that these animals are not so honorable in their bearings as sheep 829

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and oxen. It is a prejudice which by no means exists in Cincinnati. There hog killing and salting and packing is very honorable, and the great men in the trade are the merchant princes of the city. I went to see the performance, feeling it to be a duty to inspect everywhere that vwhich I found to be of most importance; but I will not describe it. There were a crowd of men operating, and I was told that the point of honor was to’put through’ a hog a minute. It must be understood that the animal enters upon the ceremony alive, and comes out in that cleanly, disemboweled guise in which it may sometimes be seen hanging up previous to the operation of the pork butcher’s knife. To one special man was appointed a performance which seemed to be specially disagreeable, so that he appeared despicable in my eyes; but when on inquiry I learned that he earlned five dollars (or a pound sterling) a day, my judgment as to his position was reversed. And, after all, what matters the ugly nature of such an occupation when a man is used to it?” Upwards of 40 houses are engaged in this trade. About 700,000 hogs are annually killed and packed here. The value of the annual product of these houses in pork and lard is estimated at about $8,000,000. The city is largely engaged in manufactures. There are numerous iron and brass founderies, machine shops, flouring mills, manufactories of furniture, of lard and stearine oil, and of candles, distilleries, and wine factories. Considerable quantities of clothing, tobacco, and wagons are also made here. The hills of the Ohio above and below the city are lined with extensive vineyards, which produce large quantities of wine, which finds a market in the city. The vineyard and wine cellars of the late Mr. Longworth are well known throughout the country. In 1864, the total exports of the city amounted to $239,079825; and the imports to $389,790,537. The principal articles of export were valued as follows: merchandise, $85,973,400; cotton, $34,973,840; tobacco, $22,286,485; whiskey, 810,520,500; horses, $8,523,847; sugar, $6,790,054; oil, $5,610,580; candles, $3,043,768; flour, $2,556,242; hemp, $2,363,760; and furniture, $2,154,075. The cities of Covington and Newport lie on the Kentucky shore, immediately opposite Cincinnati. Cincinnati was first settled on the 26th of December, 1788, by a party of men under Matthias Denman and Robert Paterson, sent out to improve a portion of the purchase made by the Hon. John Cleves 830

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OHIO.. Symmes. This purchase embraced a tract of 311,682 acres, lying be tweei the Great and Little Miami rivers, and extending along the Ohio River for a distance of 37 miles. This party landed opposite the mouth of the Licking River, and laid out a village called Losan tiville, a name shortly abandoned for that of Cincinnati. In Feb ruary, 1789, Judge Symmes himself arrived with another party, and, landing at North Bend, laid out what was designed to be a large city, to which they gave the name of Symmes. This site is now marked bv the village of Cleves. In a short while a detachment of United States troops was sent to the Bend to protect the settlers there. Fort Washington had been built at Ciclinnati by this time, however, and the troops were removed thither soon after their arrival at the Bend, and in a short while Symmnes was compelled to yield its pretensions to Cincinnati. In 1790, the expedition of General Harrison against the Indians rendezvoused at and began its march from Fort Washington, which was also the starting point of the ill-fated expedition of St. Clair, in 1791. In 1792, the first (Presbyterian) clhurch was erected, on what is now the corner of Main and Fourth streets. In 1793, the first newspaper, “The Sentinel of the Northwest Territory,” was established. In January, 1794, a line of two keel boats, with bulletproof covers and portholes, and provided with cannon and small arms, was established between Pittsburg and Cincinnati, each making a trip once in four weeks. During this time the town progressed very slowly. WVith the opening of the present century a change for the better set in, and its growth became marked and rapid. The introduction of steam navigation placed in its hands the enormous river trade, which it has since retained.

In 1819, it was incorporated as a city. Its progress since its settlement is shown by the following table: …………… ……… I……

Popula,tion). 500 * - 750 .2,540 . 9,602 . 24,831 ~ 46,338 . 115,436 .

171,000 . 216,239 ……… ~.. ……………. ……………. The city contains a large German population, the district mainly inhabited by them being known as ” Oven the Rhine.” 831 Y,;”,. 179.5, 1800, isio, 1820, 1830, 1840, 1 8 -Do, 1860, 1870,

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. CLEVELAND, The second city of the State, is situated in Cuyahoga county, on the southern shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of Cuyahoga River, 135 miles east-northeast of Columbus, 255 miles northeast of Cincinnati, and 195 miles by water southwest of Buffalo. The city is beautifully located on all elevated gravelly plain overlooking the lake, at an elevation of i’lom 60 to 100 feet above it. The Cuyahoga River flowvs through the city, its tortuous course adding to the picturesque character of the scenery and affording an excellent harbor for several miles. Froml various points excellent views are obtained of the lake, whicl-h in summer seems a sloreless sea studded with the white sails of vessels, and in the winter resembles the Arctic Ocean, being a vast solitude of ice. Cleveland is justly considered one of the lhalndsomlest American cities. It is regularly laid off, the streets, with a few exceptions, intersecting each other at rightangles. They are generally from 80 to 120 feet wide, and are so thickly shaded with maple trees-with the exception of the heavy business streets-that Cleveland has been named “The Forest City.” In the centre of the city is a handsome public square of 10 acres, in which stands a marble statue of Commnodore Perry, the hero of Lake Erie. The Nicholson or wooden pavemnent is used on all the principal streets. Superior street is the principal shopping thoroughfare, and contains the hotels. River and Merwin streets, on the east bank of the river, are the heavy business streets; and Euclid and Prospect streets are the favorite localities for residence. They are beautiful avenues, and are lined with handsonme dwellings. The principal public buildings are, the United States Building, cointaining the CustomI House, Post Office, and United States Court; the United States JMarine Hospital; the County Court ILouse; the City Police Court and Prison, and the County Jail. These are built of stone. The public schools of Cleveland have long been noted for their excellence. There are about 74 in all, including 2 high schools.

Besides these, there are a numl)er of private schools and seminaries in the city. The principal establishments of the higher class are, the Cleveland Aledical College, Charity Hospital Jledical College, and the Homeceopathic JIedical Collegye, all of which are flourishing institutions. The Cleveland Library Association possesses a fine library, and holds an annual course of lectures. 832

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OHIO. SUPERIOR STREET, CLEVELAND. There are about 32 benevolent societies in the city. The principal establishments are, the United States Marine Hospital; the Cleveland Orp)han Asylum; 3 Roman Catholic orphan asylums; the Home of the Friendless (Episcopal); the ity Infirtmary; the House of Refuge; the Charity Hospital. Fourteen newspapers, 5 of which are daily, and 9 magazines, are published in Cleveland. The city contains about 43
churches, and 7 hotels. It is lighted with gas and is supplied with water, which is forced by steam from Lake Erie into an elevated reservoir, fromn which it is distributed through the city. It is provided with an efficient police force, a police and fire alarm telegraph, a steam fire-engine department, and a system of street railways. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 92,846. The position of Cleveland on Lake Erie has placed it in possession of an important trade. It is next to Buffalo the most important port on the lake. The harbor is good, and has been greatly improved by the United States Government. During the season of navigation daily lines of passenger steamers ply between Cleveland and the Lake Superior ports, and about 20 lines of steam propellers maintain a busy trade with the principal towns on all the great lakes. There is direct communication between Cleveland and Liverpool, England, by 53 833

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. sailing vessels, via the lakes, the Welland Canal and the St. Lawrence. The lake trade is very large and valuable, and is increasing. The Ohio Canal connects the lake with the Ohio River at Portsmouth, and, by means of a branch at Beaver, seven lines of railway, one leading direct to the oil regions of Pennsylvania, connect the city with all parts of the Union. These have added greatly to its trade. The lake trade alone is estimated at about $225,000,000 per annum. Cleveland is largely engaged in shipbuilding. Many vessels have been constructed here for ocean service as well as for the lake trade. The manufactures of the city are growing rapidly. It is especially favored in this respect, owing to its proximity to the coal fields, its daily receipts from the mines, and its great facilities for distributing its products over the country. Iron, machinery, nails, copper, woo(len ware, paper, furniture, woollen goods, flour, oil, and beer are the principal articles. The surrounding country is the famous Western Reserve, one of the richest dairy regions in the West, and its products find a market in this city.

Cleveland was the first settlement within the limits of Cuyahoga county.

It was laid out in October, 1796, and was named in honor of General Moses Cleveland, a native of Connecticut. In 1836, it was incorporated as a city. In 1840, it contained but 6071 inhabitants. DAYTON, The fourth city of the State, is situated in Montgomery county, on the eastern bank of the Great Miami River, at the mouth of the Mad River, 67 miles west-by-south of Columbus, 52 miles north-northeast of Cincinnati, and 460 miles west-by-north of Washlington. Dayton is a noticeably handsome city. It is regularly laid out, with streets 100 feet wide crossing each other at righlt-angles. The public buildings are elegant, and great taste has been displayed in the construction of the private residences. The County Court House is built of pure white marble, and its architecture is somewhat in the style of the Parthenon. It is said to be the most elegant structure of its class in the western States. , The city contains over 34 churches, a public library, several hotels, 8 public and several private schools, and 4 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with water. It is provided with a police force and steam fire department, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 32,579. Seven railways centre at Dayton. The city is one of the most im 834

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OHIO. THE COURT IHOUSE, AT DAYTON. portant manufacturing towns in the West. There is abundant waterpower, which is derived from the waters of the Mad River, brought into the city by means of a hydraulic canal. The manufactures consist principally of railroad equipments, iron ware, paper, cotton and woollen fabrics, etc. The city is the seat of the Southern Lunatic Asylum of Ohio. Dayton was settled on the 1st of April, 1796. In 1805, it was incorporated. It grew slowly, however, until the close of the war of 1812. TOLEDO, The fifth city of the State, is situated in Lucas county, on the western bank of the Maumee River, 4 miles from its mouth, and 10 miles from Lake Erie. It is 134 miles northwest of Columbus, 100
miles west of Cleveland, and 246 miles northeast of Cincinnati. The city lies on an elevated plain. It is regularly laid out, but is indifferently built. The principal buildings are the Public School houses and the churches. The site of the city was unhealthy, until within the last ten years; but it is now said to be as healthy as any city on the lake. The city contains about 20 churches, several public and private schools, 4
newspaper offices, and a hotel. It is lighted with gas, is supplied with water by means of artesian wells; possesses a system of street railways, and a steam fire department; and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 28,546. Toledo is just entering upon its manufacturing career, and offers 835

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. great inducements to capitalists. Wooden ware, iron, flax, tobacco, flour, cotton fabrics, and chandlery are made here in small quantities. It is an important commercial city, however. It has railway connections with all parts of the State and Union, and the river furnishes a safe and commodious harbor for vessels navigating the lakes. It is the northern terminus of the Miami and Erie Canal, which, starting from Cincinnati, traverses the fertile valleys of the Miami and Maumiee. The Wabash and Erie Canal connects it with Evansville, Ind., on the Ohio River, traversing in its course the valley of the Wabash. The lake, tl-ie canals and the railways annually pour a large and growing trade into the lap of Toledo. The city is an important grain and timber market, and is destined to become of greater importance with the development of the surrounding country. Several grain eleva tors are in operation along the harbor. Toledo covers the site of a stockade fort, called Fort Industry, built in 1800, near what is now Summit street. It was originally divided into two settlements, Vistula and Port Lawrence, both of which languished till about the year 1833. In 1836, the two villages were united in one corporation as the city of Toledo. The comtpletion of the canals, about the year 1845, marks the beginning of its commercial importance; since which time, it has grown with great rapidity in population and in wealth.

SANDUSKY, The sixth city of the State, is situated in Erie county, on the southern shore of Sandusky Bay, 5 miles from Lake Erie, 110 miles north-byeast of Columbus, and 210 miles north-northeast of Cincinnati. The ground on which the city is built rises as it recedes from the lake, and commands extensive and charming views of it. It is regularly laid out, with wide streets shaded with trees, intersecting each other at rightangles. A handsome public square occupies the centre of the city; and around it stand the principal churches. The city is well built, many of the buildings being constructed of a fine limestone, taken from the inexhaustible bed of this stone on which the city is built. Large quantities of this stone are exported. There are in Sandusky about 18
churches, several schools, several newspaper offices, and 2 hotels. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 13,000. Sandusky is engaged in manufactures to a limited extent. It is 836

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OHIO. principally a commercial town, however. Its harbor is excellent and safe, admitting vessels of all sizes. During the season of navigation it is generally full of steamers and sailing craft trading between Sandusky and the various lake ports. Three railways connect the city with all parts of the State and Union. Sandusky was originally settled in 1817, by two pioneers from Conqcticut, and the first dwelling was built during the fall of that year. The first church was built in 1830. The other cities and towns of importance are, Zanesville, Portsmouth, Hamilton, Xenia, Springfield, Newark, Marietta, Chillicothe, Steubenville, Urbana, and Mansfield. MISCELLANY. SIMON KENTON. Simon Kenton was a Virginian by birth, and emigrated to the wilds of the West in the year 1771. He was born (according to a manuscript which hlie dictated to a gentleman of Kentucky, some years since,) in Fauquier county, on the 15th of MIay, 1755, of poor parents. His early life was passed principally on a farm. At the age of 16, having a quarrel with a rival in a love affair, he left his antagonist upon the ground for dead, and made quick steps for the wilderness. In the course of a few days, wandering to and fro, he arrived at a small settlement on Cheat Creek, one of the forks of the Monongahela, where he called himself Butler. Here, according to Mr. McC]ung, he attached himself to a small company headed by John Mahon and Jacob Greathouse, which was about starting farther west, on an exploring expedition. He was soon induced, however, by a young adventurer of the name of Yager, who had been taken by the western Indians when a child, and spent many years among them, to detach himself from the company, and go with him to a land which the Indians called Kan-tuc-kee, and which he represented as being a perfect elysium. Accompanied by another young man, named Strader, they set off for the backwoods paradise in high spirits: Kenton not doubting that he should find a country flowing with milk and honey, where he would have little to do but to eat, drink, and be merry.

Such, however, was not his luck. They continued wandering through the wilderness for some weeks, without finding the “promised land,” and then retraced their steps, and successively explored the land about Salt Lick, Little and Big Sandy, and Guyandotte. At length, being totally wearied out, they turned their attention entirely to hunting and trapping, and thus spent nearly two years. Being discovered by the Indians, and losing one of his companions (Strader), Kenton was compelled to abandon his trapping-waters, and hunting-grounds. After divers hardships, he succeeded in reaching the mouth of the Little Kanawha, with his remaining companion, where he found and attached himself to another exploring party. This, however, was attacked by the Indians, soon after commencing the descent of the Ohio, compelled to abandon its canoes, and strike diagonally through the woods for Greenbriar county. Its members suffered much 83

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. in accomplishing this journey, firom fatigue, sickness, and famine; and on reach ing the settlements separated. Kenton’s rival of the love affair had long since recovered from the castigation which hlie had given lhim. But of this the young hero had not heard. He there fore did not think proper to venture home; but, instead, built a canoe on the 3Ionongahela, and once more sought the mouth of the Great Kanawha, where lihe hunted till the spring of 1774. This year, hlie descended the Ohio as far as the mouth of Big Bone Creek, and was engaged in various explorations till 1778, when he joined Daniel Boone in his expedition against the Indian town on Paint Creek. Immediately, on his return from this, hlie was dispatched by Colonel Bowman, with two companions, to make observations upon the Indian towns on Little Miami, against which the colonel meditated an expedition. He reached the towns in safety, and made the necessary surveys without being observed by the Indians; and the expedition might have terminated much to his credit, and been very useful to the settlers in Kentucky, had he not, before leaving the towns, stolen a number of the Indians’ horses. The animals were missed early on the following morning, the trail of the marauders was discovered, and pursuit instantly commenced. Kenton and his companions soon heard cries in their rear, knew that they had been discovered, and saw the necessity of riding for their lives. They therefore dashed through the woods at a furious rate, with the hue and cry after them, until their course was suddenly interrupted by an impenetrable swamnp. Here they, from necessity, paused for a few momenelts, and listened attentively. Hearing no sounds of pursuit, they resumed their course: and skirting the swamp for some distance, in the vain hope of crossing it, they dashed off in a straight line bfor the Ohio. They continued their furious speed for 48
hours, halting but once or twice for a few minutes to take some refreshment, and reached the Ohio in safety. The river was high and rough, and they found it impossible to urge the jaded horses over. Various efforts were made, but all failed. Kenton was never remarkable for prudence; and, on this occasion, his better reason seems to have deserted him entirely. By abandoning the animals, lie might yet have escaped, though several hours had been lost in endeavoring to get them over. But this he could not make up his mind to do. He therefore called a council, when it was determined, as they felt satisfied they must be some 12 hours in advance of their pursuers, that they should conceal their horses in a neighboring ravine, and themselves take stations in an adjoining wood, in the hope that by sunset the high wind would abate, and the state of the river be such as to permit their crossing with the booty. At the hour waited for, however, the wind was higher, and the water rougher than ever.

Still, as if coimrpletely infatuated, they remained in their dangerous position through the night. The next morning was mild; the Indians had not yet been heard in pursuit, and Kenton again urged the horses over. But, recollecting the difficulties of the preceding day, the affrighted animals could not now be induced to emoter the water at all. Each of the three men therefore mounted a horse, abandoning the rest (they had stolen quite a drove), and started down the river, with the intention of keeping the Ohio and Indiana side till they should arrive opposite Louisville. But they were slow in making even this movement; and they had not ridden over 100
yards when they heard a loud halloo, proceeding apparently friom the spot which they had just left. They were soon surrounded by the pursuers. One of Kenton’s companions effected his escape, the other was killed. Kenton was made prisoner-” falling a victim,” says Mr. McClung, “to his excessive love of horseflesh.” 838

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OHIO. After the Indians had scalped his dead companion, and kicked and cuffed Ken ton to their hlearts’ content, they compelled him to lie down upon his back, and stretch out his arms to their full length. They then passed a stout stick at right angles across his breast, to each extremity of which his wrists were fastened by thongs of buffalo-hide. Stakes were next driven into the earth near hlis feet, to which they were fastened in like manner. A halter was then tied round his neck, and fastened to a sapling which grew near. And finally, a strong rope was passed under his body, and wound several times round his arms at the el bows-thus lashing them to the stick which lay across his breast, and to which his wrists were fastened, in a manner peculiarly painful. He could move neither feet, arms, nor head; and was kept in this position till the next morning. The Indians then, wishing to commence their return-journey, unpinioned Kenton, and lashed himi by the feet to a wild, unbroken colt (one of the animals he had stolen from them), with his hands tied behind him. In this manner he was driven into a captivity as cruel, singular, and remarkable in other respects, as any in the whole history of Indian warfare upon this continent. “A fatalist,” says the author of the ” Sketches of Western Adventure,” “would recognize the hand of destiny in every stage of its progress. In the infatuation with which Kenton refused to adopt proper measures for his safety, while such were practicable; in the persevering obstinacy with which lihe remained on the Ohio shore until flight became useless; and afterward, in that remarkable succession of accidents, by which, without the least exertion on his part, lie was so often at one hour tantalized with a prospect of safety, and the next plunged into the deepest despair. He was eight times exposed to the gauntlet-three times tied to the stake-and as often thought himself upon the eve of a terrible death. All the sentences passed upon him, whether of mercy or condemnation, seem to have been pronounced in one council only to be reversed in another. Every friend that Providence raised up in his favor, was imllmediately followed by some enemy, who unexpectedly interposed, and turned his short glimpse of sunshine into deeper darkness than ever. For three weeks he was constantly see-sawing between life and death; and during the whole time he was perfectly passive. No wisdom, or foresight, or exertion, could have saved him. Fortune fought his battle from first to last, and seemed determined to permit nothing else to interfere.” He was eventually liberated from the Indians, when about to be bound to the stake for the fourth time and burnt, by an Indian agent of the name of Drewycr, who was anxious to obtain intelligence for the British commander at Detroit, of the strength and condition of the settlements in Kentucky.

Hegot nothing important out of Kenton; but in three weeks, Football of Fortune was sent to Detroit, from which place he effected his escape in about eight months, and returned to Kentucky. Fearless and active, he soon embarked in new enterprises; and was with George Rogers Clarke, in his celebrated expedition against Vinlcennes and Kaskaskia; with Edwards, in his abortive expedition to the Indian towns in 1785; and with Wayne, in his decisive campaign of 1794. Simon Kenton, throughout the struggles of the pioneers, had the reputation of being a valuable scout, a hardy woodsman, and a brave Indian fighter; but, in reviewing his eventful career, he appears to have greatly lacked discretion, and to have evinced frequently a want of energy. In his after life he was much respected, and he continued to the last fond of regaling listeners with stories of the early times. A friend of ours, who some years ago made a visit to the 839

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. abode of the venerable patriarch, describes in the following terms his appearance at that time: ” Kenton’s form, even under the weight of 79 years, is striking, and must have been a model of manly strength and agility. His eye is blue, milcd, and yet penetrating in its glance. Thie forehead projects very much at the eyebrows-wlwhichi are well defined-and then recedes, and is neither very high nor very broad. His hair, which in active life was light, is now quite gray; his nose is straight; and his mouth, before hlie lost his teeth, must have been expres sive and handsome. I observed that lie had yet one tooth-which, in connection with his’ laracter and manner of conversation, was continually reminding me of Leatherstocking. The whole face is remarkably expressive, not of turbulence or excitement, but rather of rumination and self-possession. Simplicity, frankness, honesty, and a strict regard to truth, appeared to be the prominent traits of his character.” In giving an answer to a question which my friend asked him, I was particularly struck with his truthfulness and simplicity. The question was, whether the account of his life, given in the ” Sketches of Western Adventure,” was true or not. ” Well, I’ll tell you,” said he; “not true. The book says that when Blackfish, the Injun warrior, asked me, when they had taken me prisoner, if Colonel Boone sent me to steal their horses, I said,‘No, sir.’” Here he looked indignant and rose from his chair. “I tell you I never said’ sir’ to an Injun in my life; I scarcely ever say it to a white man.” Here Mrs. Kenton, who was engaged in some domestic occupation at the table, turned round and remarkied, that when they were last in Kentucky, some one gave her the book to read to her husband; and that when she came to that part, hlie would not let her read any further. “And I tell you,”

continued hle, “I was never tied to a stake in my life to be burned. They had me painted black when I saw Girty, but not tied to a stake.” We are inclined to think, notwithstanding this, that the statement in the “

Sketches,” of his being three times tied to the stake, is correct; for the author of that interesting work had before him a manuscript account of the pioneer’s life, which had been dictated by Mr. Kenton to a gentleman of Kentucky, a number of years before, when he had no motive to exaggerate, and his memory was comparatively unimpaired. But he is now beyond the reach of earthly toil, or trouble, or suffering. His old age was as exemplary as his youth and mailhood had been active and useful. And though his last years were clouded by poverty, and his eyes closed in a miserable cabin to the light of life, yet shall lihe occupy a bright page in our border history, and his name soon open to the light of fame. 840

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IND IANA. Area,…….. M.. Population in 1860…… Population in 1870,…… THE State of Indiana is situated between 37~ 50’ and 41~ 50’

N. latitude, and between (about) 84~ 50’ and (about) 88~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Michigan and Lake Michigan, on the east by Ohio and Kentucky, on the south by Kentucky, and on the west by Illinois. Its extreme length, from north to south, is about 280 miles, and its extreme width, from east to west, about 144 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. The Ohio River is bordered for the most part by a range of lhills, and the country south of the White River is mostly rugged. A low ridge enters the State from Kentucky, and crosses the southern part in a northwestern direction. The WThite and Wabasli rivers break thlrough this ridge in a series of rapids.

The rapids of the Ohio River are produced by the same cause. North of theVhite River, the country is either gently rolling or level. Fine prairies occupy the western counties, and the eastern part of the State is hleavily timbered. Some swamp lands occupy several of the northwestern counties. Lake M’kichigan, already described, washes the western portion of the northern part of the State. Michigan City is the principal town on the lake. The Ohio River washes the entire southern shore of the State, and( receives the waters of its principal stream, the Wabash. The lV,tbash 841 33,809 Square Miles. . 1,350,428 . 1,680,637

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. rises in the western part of the State of Ohio, and enters Indiana near the centre of the eastern boundary. It then flows northwest to Huntington, where it bends to the southwest, and flows in that direc tion across the State to the Illinois border, below Terre Haute. It then forms the boundary between Indiana and Illinois for about 100 miles, and emnpties into the Ohio River at the southwestern extremity of the former State. It is 550 miles long, and is navigable for 300 niles for steamboats, at high water. The White River is the principal branch of the Wabash. It is formed by two branches, called the East Fork and the West Fork. The West Fork, which may be regarded as the main stream, rises in the eastern part of the State, and is 300 miles long,. It flows through the central part of Indiana, and is navigable, at high water, for 200
miles above the mouth of the White River. The East Fork is 250 miles long, and is navigable for flatboats. The two branches unite near Kinderhook, in Davies county. The main stream is about 40 or 50 miles long. The general course of the White River and its branches is southwest. The Wabash is obstructed at low water by a ledge of rocks just above the mouth of the White River. The Maumee and its branches drain the northeastern counties, and the Kankakee, one of the sources of the Illinois, flows through the northwest. The Upper St. Joseph’s of Michigan flows for 30
miles through this State, in the extreme northern part. The Tippecanoe and Mississinewa, flowing into the Wabash, the White Water and Blue River flowing into the Ohio, and the Flat Rock flowing into the White River, are the other streams of importance. MINERALS. The southwestern part of the State is rich in coal beds. It is estimated that they are capable of producing 50,000,000 bushels to the square mile. Iron, zinc, gypsum, marble, limestone and sandstone, of an excellent building quality, and grindstones are found. CLIMATE. The climate is mild as a general rule, but liable to sudden and severe changes. The summers are warm, but the winters, though severe, are short, and except in the most northern counties deep snows are not usual. 842

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INDIANA. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil of the State is good, and has never been worked to its full capacity. The best and most fertile lands lie along the rivers. The State contains a great deal of excellent grazing land. According to the Report of the Agricultural Bureau for 1869, there were in Indiana 8,242,183 acres of improved land. In the same year, the other returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,…. ” Indian corn,.

rye…… ” oats,…….. barley,…. buckwheat,.. potatoes,… Pounds of tobacco,…. ” 4 butter,…. Tons of hay,……. Number of horses,…. “
asses and mules, sheep,.1 milch cows,. swine,.. young cattle,.. Value of domestic animals, COlIMMIERCE AND MANUFACTURES. This State has no foreign commerce, but has an active lake and river trade. Manufactures do not yet occupy the position to which the cheapness of fuiel and abundance of waterpower in Indiana entitle thenm. The State is almost entirely agricultural at present, but there is good reason to believe that it will one day become a prominent manufacturing community. In 1860, the State contained 5120 establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed a capital of $18,875,000, consumed raw material worth $27,360,000, and returned an annual product of $43,250,000.

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, Indiana contained 2211 miles of completed railroads, constructed at a cost of $79,387,000. Nearly all the great lines between the far West and the East cross this State, which is one of the fore 843 . 20,600,000 . 73,000,000 575,000 . 12,413,000 411,000

303,000 . 4,750,000 . 7,000,000 . 18,306,651 . 1,200,000 890,340 35.340 .

1,0111120 390,450 . 3,580,120 744,850 . $50,855,539

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. most in the country in the work of internal imnprovements. A perfect network of roads covers the State, and there is scarcely a county which is not crossed in some part by a railroad. Seven lines centre at the capital, and half a dozen cross the northern part of the State to Chicago. All the important points are thus connected with each other, and with all parts of the country. The roads of Indiana are amongst the b)est in the country. In 1860, there were 453 miles of canal navigation in the State. EDUCATION. Indiana is one of the first States in respect to the provision made for public education. In 1868, there were 14
colleges in the State, the principal of which is the State University, at Bloomington, which is a part of the public school system, and furnishes education friee. A State normal school has been established at Terre Haute. The educational systemi is under the general control of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, elected by the people for a term of two years. HIe reports the condition of the schools to the Legislature at the end of his term. A County Commissioner is in charge of the schools of each county, and in each city and township the schools are controlled by a Boar(l of Trustees. An Examiner is appointed in each county by the Commissioner. It is the duty of this official to visit the schools and examine the teachers, under the direction of the Commissioner, and to hold a Teachers’ Institute in his county at least once a year. In 1866, the school firnd amounted to $7,613,490. The number of public schools in the State was 8166, and the number of pupils was 402,812. There were also 2026
private schools, with 49,322 pupils. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. There are two State prisons in this State-the State Prison, North, at Michigan City, and the State Prison, South, at Jeffersonville. At the Jeffersonville prison, the labor of the convicts is let out to contractors, and the institution is self-sustaining. The State conducts the noirthl:rn prison. The Asyhum for the De.uf and Diumb is at Indianapolis, and is a flourishing and excellent institution. The Institute for the Education of the Biiid, ind the Ifospital for the Insane, are also at Indianapolis. They are well nmanaged. In the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, shoe 844

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INDIANA. making and cabinetmaking are taught the boys, while the girls are instructed in needlework. Brush and broom making are carried on by the boys, and bead work of various kinds by the girls, at the Blind Asylum. In October, 1867, there were 169 deaf mutes in the first institution named above; 96 blind persons in the second; and in 1868, 313 lunatics in the third. The Soldiers’ card Seanmer’s Homei is located in Rush county. It was established in this colunty in 1866, and will accommodate 100
patients. A State teform School is just being put ill operation in Ilenudricks county. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 2933
churches in Indiana, and the value of church property was $4,065,274.

LIBRARIES AND NEWSPAPERS. In 1860, there were 258 libraries in the State, containing 94,201 volumes. In the same year the number of newspapers and magazines published in this State was as follows: daily, 13; semiweekly, 5; weekly, 160; monthly, 8. Total, 186. Of these 172 were political, 6
religious, 5 literary, and 3 miscellaneous. They had an aggregate annual circulation of 10,090,310 copies. FINANCES. On the 31st of October, 1870, the State debt amounted to $3,970,601. The receipts of the Treasury during the fiscal year ending October 31st, 1870, amounted to $3,896,541, and the expenditures for the same period to $3,532,406. In 1868, there were 68

National banks doing business in the State, with a capital of $12,867,000.

GOVERNMENT. By the terms of the State Constitution, every male citizen of the United States, 21 years old, who has resided in the State six months, and every male of foreign birth, 21 years old, who has resided in the United States one year, and in the State six months, and has declared his intention to become a citizen of the United States, is entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, 845

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Secretary of State, Auditor of State, Treasurer of State, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 50 members) and a House of Representatives (of 98 members), all elected by the people. The General election is held in October. The Governor and LieutenantGovernor are chosen for four years, and the other officers and the Legislature for two years. The Legislature meets biennially in January. The Courts of the State are the Supreme Court, Circuit Courts, and a Court of Common Pleas. The judges are elected by the people; those of the Supreme Court for seven years, those of the Circuit Courts for six years, and those of the Court of Common Pleas for four years. Tile Supreme Court consists of four judges. The seat of Government is established at Indianapolis. Indiana is divided into 92 counties. HISTORY. Originally a part of New France, Indiana was first explored by the French missionaries and traders. As early as 1700, Vincennes was a missionary station, and in 1716 it became a trading-post. It is believed that the first actual white settlers were French soldiers, who, by frequent intermarriages with the Indians, lost their habits of civilization, and became a degenerate community, remaining a distinct class for fully one hundred years. The treaty of 1763, turned over to Great Britain all the French possessions east of the Mississippi. Dtring the Revolution, the French settlers were bitterly hostile to the English, and in one instance gave such accurate information of the situation and condition of the British fort at Vincennes, that General Rogers Clark, of Virginia, was enabled to capture it. After the close of the Revolution, the territory east of the Mississippi became the property of the United States. Soon after the settlement of Ohio, several military expeditions were sent into the present State of Indiana, which was then known as the Indian country. In 1790, General Harmar destroyed the Indian towns on the Maumee, which are supposed to have occupied the site of the present town of Fort Wayne, but was himself very badly handled by the savages. In May, 1791, an expedition from Kentucky, under General Charles Scott, laid waste the towns on the Wabash and Eel rivers, without losing a man; and in the followini August, another 846

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INDIANA. Kentucky expedition crossed into Indiana, and completed the work which General Scott had begun. The Indians continued hostile after the treaty of 1795, owing to the efforts of Tecumseh, but a portion of them sold their lands to the United States for the benefit of the white settlers. In 1802 and 1803, and again in 1807, unsuccessful efforts were made to introduce slavery into the Indiana territory in spite of the prohibition of the ordinance by which the territory had been ceded to the United States. The Indians having become troublesome again, the Governor, General William Henry Harrison, summoned the people to take up arms against them. The savages were led by Tecumseh and his brother The Prophet, two able and determined chieftains. General Harrison marched into their country with a considerable force. On the 7th of November, 1811, he appeared with his army before Tippecanoe (the Prophet’s town) on the Wabash, and demanded that the savages should restore all the property they had taken from the whites. A conference was held between the American commander and Tecumseh, in which it was agreed that hostilities should not begin until the next morning. Harrison, however, knew that the Indians would not scruple to disregard the truce, and bivouacked his army in order of battle. His suspicions were realized. Just before daylight Tecumseh made a furious attack upon the American camp, but, thanks to the wise precautions of Harrison, was repulsed, and his warriors routed with terrible loss. Harrison followed up his victory by devastating the Indian country. Soon after this the tribes sued for peace. During the war of 1812
the Indians joined the British in their efforts against the Americans, but were terribly punished for so doing. Their warriors were slain and their country laid waste, and in the battle of the Thames their famous chieftain, Tecumseh, was killed. In the year 1800 the region now included in the States of Illinois and Indiana was organized as the Territory of Indiana. In 1.809 Illinois Territory was separated from Indiana. On the 29th of June, 1816, a State Constitution was adopted by the people, in Convention, and on the 11th of December, of the same year, Indiana was admitted into the Union as a sovereign State. The new State grew rapidly, and attracted settlers from all parts of the country. Emigrants from Europe also came over, and it entered upon that splendid career of wealth and prosperity which it is still pursuing. 847

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. During the late war Indiana furnished 195,147 troops to the service of the United States. STATE HOUSE AT INDIANAPOLIS. CITIES

AND TOWNS. Besides tile capital, the principal cities and towns of the State are, New Albany, Evansville, Fort Wayne, Lafayette, Terre Haute, Madison, Richmond, Laporte, Jeffersonville, Logansport, and Michigan City.

INDIANAPOLIS, The capital and largest city of the State, is situated in Marion county, on the west fork of White River, just below the moLltll of Fall Creek, 109 miles northwest of Cincinnati, 200 miles southeast of Chicago, and 573 miles west by north of Washington. Latitude, 39~ 46’ N.; longitude, 86~ 5’ W. It is located in an extensive plain, a(nd lies in almost the exact centre of the State. The city is regularly laid out, and is well built. It is making rapid progress every year in the character of its edifices, both public and private, and is now noted as one of the hanidsomest and most attractive of the Western capitals. The streets are wide, and generally cross each other at right angles. Four of them, however, are diagonal, and converge to a circular area in the centre of the town. Washington street is the principal thoroughfare, and is 120 feet wide. The streets are well paved, are shaded with trees, and are traversed by lines of street railways. The ,48

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INDIANA. Ibusiness portions boast many handsome and showy structures, and the private str’eets contain a large number of elegant residences. The public buildings are a credit to the city and State. The State ioutse is a noble edifice, built in imitation of the Parthenon, and suriiiounlted by a donme. Its dimensions are 180 by 80 feet. The Court I-[otse and the Union Depot are the other prominent buildings. The schools of the city are excellent and prosperous. The public Wchools deserve special commendation, and. the private academies and :emin aries are well conducted. The Northwestern Christian University, conducted by the Christian Church, the Baptist Feimale College, thel Indiana Femiale College, and the Indiana Medical College, are located here. Tile State and Mercantile Libiraries are the principal collections of books. The Benevolent Institutions are, the State Lunatic Asylum, the State Asyltmns for the Blind, and for the Deaf asld Dumb, and several local institutions for the relief of the poor and afflicted. The city contains about 34 churches, and several newspaper offices, is lighted with gas, and is supplied with pure water. It is provided with an efficient police force, and a steam fire department, and is governed by a MAayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 48,244.

Eight railway lines centre at Indianapolis, and make it one of the most important railway points in America. Manufaictures are carried on to a limited extent, iron, machinery, paper, flour, and window sashes being the principal products. Indianapolis is noted for its rapid growth. In 1820, when the site was selected for the capital of the State, it was covered with a dense forest. The first settlement was made in the spring of that year, and on the 1st of January, 1825, the State offices were removed front Corydon to this place. The State Capitol was finished in 1834.

EVANSVILI,E, Ini Vanderburgh county, on the northern bank of the Ohio, is the second city of the State, with respect to population. It is 200 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, 200 miles below Louisville, Ky., and 144
miles southwest of Indianapolis. The city lies on a high bank of the river, the ground sloping gradually from the first street to the edge of tile water. It is well built, and presents a handsome appearance fromn the river. The principal streets are wide and well paved. The public buildings are, the Court House, the Marine IHospital of the United States, and the State Banlc. The city is lighted with gas, and 54 849

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THE GRtEAT REPUBLIC. EVANSVILLE. is supplied with water from the Ohio. It contains about 30 churches, a number of public and private schools, about 4 newspaper offices, and several hotels. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 22,830. Evansville is one of the most important places in the State. It is the terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, which is 462 miles long, and the principal market of the famous Green River Valley of Kentucky. The annual exports of the city exceed $8,000,000 in value, of which pork, lard, and tobacco are the principal articles. The city is also extensively engaged in the manufacture of iron, brass, and flour. The coal for this purpose is mined about a mile from the Court House. A large portion of the population is of German origin. The town was laid out in 1836, at which time the site was covered with a dense forest. It received its name froIn Robert Morgan Evans, a native of Virginia, one of the original proprietors. FORT WAYNE, In Allen county, is situated at the confluence of the St. Joseph’s and St. Mary’s rivers, which here unite and form the Maumee. It is 1 12 miles northeast of Indianapolis, and 96 west of Toledo, Ohio. The city is laid out on the level prairie land, and is well built. It has grown rapidly in the past ten years, and its railway connections have made it a place of considerable importance. The Wabash and Erie Canal connects it with the Ohio and Lake Erie. It contains about 10 churches, 4 news 850

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INDIAN8A. N EW ALBANY. paper offices, several public schools, a femrale college, and the county buildings, and is lighted with gas and supplied with water. It is the chief market for the rich ocuntry surrounding it, and is a place of considerable trade. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 17,718, making it the third city of the State. Fort Wayne occupies the site of the “Twightwee Village” of the Miami Indians. The French at an early day built a trading-post here, and in 1764, the English erected a fort on the spot. In 1794, General Anthony Wayne erected a new fort, which was called by his name, and which has given its name to the present city. It was continued as a military-post until 1841, until the removal westward of the Miamis and Potawatomies. NEW

ALBANY, In Floyd county, on the right bank of the Ohio River, is the fourth city of the State. It is 3 miles below the falls of the Ohio, and 5
miles below Louisville, 136 miles below Cincinnati, and 100 miles south-by-east from Indianapolis. It is a handsome city, built on level ground, at a slight elevation above the river, with broad wellpaved streets, shaded with handsome trees. It contains some showy buildings and fine residences. The principal are the county buildings. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from the 851

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THE GREATr REPUBLIC. Ohio. It contains about 18 churches, several public and private schools, a Pisebyterian T’heoloyical Semiaary, and 2 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 14,273. New Albany is the most important commercial city in the State.

It is the centre of a large river trade, and its commerce with all parts of the State is important. Next to Cincinnati it is the principal point on the Ohio for the construction of steamers. It contains 6 steamboat yards.

It is also engaged in the -manufacture of iron, brass, machinery, nails, locomotives, woollen goods, flour, and engines for steamboats. The town was laid out in 1813. MADISON, In Jefferson county, is the fifth city of the State. It lies on the right bank of the Ohio River, 90 miles below Cincinnati, 44 miles above ILouisville, and 86 miles south-southeast of Indianapolis. The city lies in a beautiful and picturesque valley, which, with the hills on the Kentucky shore, and those of Indiana, and the bold curve and broad sweep of the Ohio, affords a panoratLa rarely equalled.

This valley is about three miles long, and is enclosed by hills nearly 400
fcet high. The city is well built, the ground on which it lies being about 30 or 40 feet above the highest floods. The principal streets are well paved, and the city is lighted with gas and supplied with water. The principal buildings are the Court House and the United States J-ospital.

The city contains about 14 churches, 2 )public libraries, 3 large public schools, and 2 newspaper offices. It is governe(l by a Mayor and Council.

In 1870, the population was 10,709. Madison is connected with all parts of the State by railways, and is largely engaged in the river trade. The annual value of the commerce of the city is estimated at more than $8,000,000. Large quantities of bread(stuffs are exported, and several fotnderies, machine shops, etc., are in operation in the city. There are also several extensive pork-packing establishments. Madison was first settled in 1807. The site was then covered with a dense growth of poplars, beech, and walnut, and the present landing was covered with a growth of cottonwood, the water’s edge being fringed with willows. LAFAYETTE, In Tippecanoe county, on the left bank of the Wabl)ash River, is the sixth city of the State. It is 66 miles northwest of Indianapolis, and 852

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INDIANA. LAFAYETTE. 123 miles southeast of Chicago. The city is pleasantly situated on ground gradually rising from and commanding a fine view of the river. It is regularly laid out, and is rapidly improving in the character of its buildings. It contains a handsome court house, 4 public and several private schools, 14 churches, and 4 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas. In 1870, the population was 13,506. In the centre of the city, on the public square, is a fine medicinal well. The well was sunk for drinking water, and at the depth of 230 feet this mineral stream was struck. It is a salt sulphur water, and closely resembles that of the Blue Lick Springs of Kentucky. It is applicable to numerous diseases, such as bronchitis, rheumatism, dyspepsia, diseases of the liver, kidneys, sexual organs, and in general for disturbances of the secretive organs or surfaces. The stream is constant, and ample for bathing and drinking purposes. Lafayette is a place of considerable trade, and the iost important grain market in the State. The Wabash Canal connects it with the Ohio and Lake Erie, and 3
railways connect it with the rest of the State. It possesses excellent waterpower, and is within immediate reach of valuable beds of iron, coal, and clay. Lafayette was laid out in 1825, on Government land. Seven miles north of the city, on the line of the railway to Chicago, is the famous battlefield of Tippecanoe, where on the 7th of November, 1811, General Harrison defeated the Indian chief Tecumseh. 853

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. TERRE HAUTE, In Vigo county, on the left or eastern bank of the Wabash River, is the seventh city of the State. It is 73 miles west of Indianapolis, 109 miles north of Evansville, and 187 east of St.

Louis. The site of the city is elevated about 60 feet above low water, and a few feet above the level of the surrounding prairie. The situation is very beautiful. The prairie is noted for its fertility, and the beauty of its landscape. The plan of the city is rectangular. The streets are wide, and are famous for their handsome shade trees. The greater portion of the city is built of brick, and many of the houses are handsome. The residences as a rule are located in grounds ornameneted with shrubbery.

The city contains a fine court house, a town hall, about 12 churches, several public and private schools, 2 female colleges, and 5 newspaper offices. The Wabash is here crossed by a fine bridge. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. Ill 1870, the population was 16,103. Terre Haute offers great inducements to manufacturers. It is surrounded by extensive coal-fields, and building stone and iron ore of a superior quality lie close by. It is a place of considerable trade, having railway communication with all parts of the country, and being one of the principal shipping points on the Wabash and Erie Canal. Large quantities of pork, grain, and flour are annually exported. Terre Haute was first settled in 1816, since which time it has grown steadily. MISCELLANY. THE MEETING OF GENERAL HARRISON AND

TECUMSEH. In the spring of 1810, General Harrison, being Governor of the Northwestern Territory, and residing at Vincennes-the seat of Governmllent-had learned fiom various quarters that Tecumseh had been visiting the different Indian tribes, scattered along the valleys of the Wabash and Illinois, with a view of fibrmilng an alliance and making common cause against the whites, and that there was great probability that his mission had been successful. Aware, as he was, that if this was the case, and that if the combination had been formed, such as was represented, the settlements in the southern portion of Indiana and Illinois were in great danger that Vincennes itself would be the first object of attack, and that, with a handful of troops in the territory, a successful resistance might not be made; and not probably fully aware of the extent of the organization attempted by Tecumseh, and desirous of avoiding, if he could, the necessity of a call to arms, he sent a message to him, then residing at the “Propl)liet’s Town,” inviting 854

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INDIANA. him to a council, to be held at as early a period as possible, for the purpose of talking over and amicably settling all difficulties which might exist between the whites and the Shawnees. It was not until the month of August of the same year, that Tecumseh, accompanied by about 70 of his warriors, made his appearance. They encamped on the banks of the Wabash, just above the town, and Tecumseh gave notice to the Governor that, in pursuance of his invitation, he had come to hold a talk ” with him and his braves.” The succeeding day was appointed for the meeting. The Governor made all suitable preparations for it. The officers of the territory and the leading citizens of the town were invited to be present, while a portion of a company of miilitia was detailed as a guard-fully armed and equipped for any emergency. Notice had been sent to Tecumseh, previous to the meeting, that it was expected that himself and a portion of his principal warriors would be present at the council. The council was held in the open lawn before the Governor’s house, in a grove of trees which then surrounded it. But two of these, I regret to say, are now remaining. At the time appointed, Tecumseh and sonme 15 or 20 of his warriors made their appearance. With a firm and elastic step, and with a proud and somewhat defiant look, lie advanced to the place where the Governor and those who had been invited to attend the conference were sitting. This place had been fenced inll, with a view of preventing the crowd from encroaching upon the council during its deliberations. As he stepped forward, hlie seemed to scan the preparations which had been made for his reception, particularly the military part of it, with an eye of suspiciolln-by no means, however, of fear. As he came in front of the dais, anll elevated portion of the lilace, upon which the Governor and the officers of the territory were seated, the Governor invited him, through his interpreter, to come forward and take a seat with him and his counsellors, premising the invitation by saying: ” That it was the wish of their’ Great Father,’ the President of the United States, that lie should do so.” The chief paused for a moment, as the words were uttered and the sentence finished, and raising his tall form to its greatest height, surveyed the troops and the crowd around him. Then, with his keen eyes fixed upon the Governor for a single moment, and turning them to the sky above, with his sinewy arm pointing toward the heavens, and with a tone and manner indicative of supreme contempt for the paternity assigned him, said, in a voice whose clarion tone was heard throughout the whole assembly: “yIy Father?-Thlle sun is mly father-the earth is my mother-and on her bosomi I will recline.” Having finished, he stretched himself with his warriors onl the greensward. The effect, it is sai(, was electrical, and for some moments there was perfect silence. The Governor, through the interpreter, then informed him,’” that he had understood hlie had complaints to make, and redress to ask, for certain wrongs which he (Tecumseh) supposed had been done his tribe, as well as the others; that hlie felt disposed to listen to the one and make satisfaction for the other, if it was proper that he should do so. That in all his intercourse and negotiations with the Indians, he had endeavored to act justly and honorably with them, and believed hlie had done so, and had learned of no complaint of his conduct until he learned that Tecumseh was endeavoring to create dissatisfaction toward the Government, not only among the Shlawnees, but among( the other tribes dwelling on the Wabash and Illinois; and had, in so doing, produced a great deal of trouble between them and the whites, by averring that the tribes whose land the Government had lately purchased, had no right to sell, nor their chiefs any authority to 855

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. convey. That he, the Governor, had invited him to attend the council, with a view of learning from his own lips, whether there was any truth in the reports which hle had heard, and to learn whether hlie, or his tribe, had any just cause of complaint against the whites, and, if so, as a man and a warrior, openly to avow it. That as between himself and as great a warrior as Tecumseh there should be no concealment-all should be done by them under a clear sky, and in an open path, and with these feelings on his own part, hlie was glad to meet him in coun cil.” Tecumseh arose as soon as the Governor had finished. Those who knew him speak of him as one of the most splendid specimens of his tribe-celebrated for their physical proportions and fine forms, even among the nations who sur rounded them. Tall, athlletic, and nianly, dignified, but graceful, he seemed the beau ideal of an Indian clhieftain. In a voice first low, but, with all its indis tinctness, musical, lie commenced his reply. As he warmed with his subject, his clear tones might be heard, as if “trtumpet-tongued,” to the utmost limits of the assembled crowd who surrounded him. The most perfect silence prevailed, ex cept when the warriors who surrounded him gave their guttural assent to some eloquent recital of the red iman’s wrong and the white man’s injustice. Well in structedcl in the traditions of his tribe, fully acquainted with their history, the councils, treaties, and battles of the two races for half a century, hlie recapitulated the wrongs of the red man from the miassacre of the Moravian Indians, during the Revolutionary war, down to the period hlie had met the Governor in council. He told him “lie did not know how hlie could ever again be the firiend of the white man.” In reference to the public domain, hle asserted “that the Great Spirit had given all the country from the Miami to the Mississippi, from the lakes to the Ohio, as a comlnmon property to all the tribes that dwelt within those bor ders, and that the land could not, and should not be sold without the consent oft all. That all the tribes on the continent formed but one nation. That if the United States would not give up the lands they had bought of the Miamis, the DI)elawares, the Potawatomies, and other tribes, that those united with him were determined to fall on those tribes and annihilate them. That they were deter mined to have no more chiefs, but in future to be governed by their warriors. That their tribes had been driven toward the setting sun, like a galloping horse (Ne-kat-a-cusli-e Ka-top-o-lin-to). That for himiself and his warriors, hle had determined to resist all further aggressions of the whites, and that witlh his consent, or that of the Shawnees, they should never acquire another foot of land.” To those who have never heard of the Shawnee language, I may here remark it is the most musical and euphonious of all the Indian languages of the West. Whllen spoken rapidly by a fluent speaker, it sounds more like the scanning of Greek and Latin verse, than anything I can compare it to. The effectt of this address, of which I have simply given the outline, and which occupied an hour in the delivery, may be readily imagined. William, Henry Harrison was as brave a man as ever lived. All who knew him will acknowledge his courage, moral and physical, but he was whlolly unlprepared for such a speech as this. There was a coolness, an independence, a defiance in the whole manner and matter of the chieftain’s speech which astonished even him. He knew Tecumseh well.

He had learned to appreciate his high qualities as a man and warrior. He knew his power, his skill, his influence, not only over his own tribe, but over those who dwelt on the waters of the Wabash and Illinois. He knew he was no braggart-that what he said he meant-what he promised he intended to perform. He was fully aware that he was a foe not 856

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INDIANA. to be treated light-an enemy to be conciliated, not scorned-ione to be met with kindness, not contempt. There was a stillness throughout the assembly when Tecumselh had done speaking which was painful. Not a whisper was to be heard-all eyes were turned from the speaker to the Governor. The unwarranted and unwarrantable pretensions of the chief, and the bold and defiant tone in 9 which hlie had announced them, staggered even him. It was some moments be fore he arose. Addressing Tecumsehl, who had taken his seat with his warriors, he said: “That the charges of bad faith made against the Government, and the assertion that injustice had been done the Indians in any treaty ever made, or any council ever held with them by the United States, had no foundation in fact. That in all their dealings with the red man, they had ever been governed by the strictest rules of right and justice. That while other civilized nations had treated them Fitli contumely and contempt, ours had always acted in good faith with them. That so far as hlie individually was concerned, he could say, in the pres ence of the’ Great Spirit,’ who was watching over their deliberations, that his conduct, even with the most insignificant tribe, had been marked with kindness, and all his acts governed by honor, ilntegrity, and fair dealing. That lie had uniformly been the friend of the red man, and that it was the first time in his life that his motives had been questioned or his actions impeached. It was the first time in his life that hle had ever heard such unfounded claims put forth, as Te cumseli had set up, by any chief, or any Indian, having the least regard for truth, or the slightest knowledge of the intercourse between the Indian and the white man, from the time this continent was first discovered.” What the Gover nor had said thus far had been interpreted by Barron, the interpreter to the Shawnees, and lie was about interpreting it to the MIiamis and Potawatomies, who formed part of the cavalcade, whlen Tecumseh, addressing the interpreter in Shawnee, said, “He lies!” Barron, who had, as all subordinates (especially in the Indian department) have, a great reverence and respect for the “powers that be,” commenced interpreting the language of Tecumnsehl to the Governor, but not exactly in the terms made use of, when Tecumsch, who understood but little English, perceived from his embarrassment and awkwardness, that hlie was not giving his words, interrupted him, and, again addressing him in Shawnee, said: “No, no; tell 7iim he lies.” The guttural assent.of his party showed they coin cided with their chief’s opinion. General Gibson, Secretary of the Territory, who understood Shawnee, had not been an inattentive spectator of the scene, and understanding the import of the language made use of, and firom the excited state of Tecumseh and his party, was apprehensive of violence, made a signal to the troops in attendance to shloul’der their arms and advance. They did so. The speech of Tecumseh was literally translated to the Governor. He’directed Barron to say to him, ” lie would hold no further council with him,” and the meeting broke up. One can hardly imagine a more exciting scene-one which would be a finer subject for an “historical painting,” to adorn the rotunda of the Capitol. On the succeeding day, Tecumselh requested another interview with the Governor, which was granted on condition that he should make an apology to the Governor for his language the day before. This lie made throughl the interpreter. Measures for defence and protection were, however, taken, lest there should be another outbreak. Two companies of militia were ordered from the country, and the one in town added to them, while the Governor and his friends went into council fully armed and prepared for any contingency. The conduct of Tecumseh upon 857

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. this occasion was entirely different from that of the day before. Firm and intrepid, showing not the slightest fear or alarm, surrounded as he was with the military force quadrupling his own, hlie preserved the utmost composure and equanimity. No one could have discerned fiom his looks, although he must have fully understood the object of calling in the troops, that he was in the slightest degree disconcerted.

He was cautious in his bearing, dignified in his manner, d and no one from observing him would for a moment have supposed hlie was the principal actor in the thrilling scene of the previous day. In the interval between the sessions of the first and second council, Tecumseh had told Barron, the interpreter, ” that he had been informed by the whites, that the people of the Territory were almost equally divided, half in favor of Tecumseh, and the other adhering to the Governor.” The same statement he made in council. He said “that two Amiericans had made him a visit, one in the course of the preceding winter, the other lately, and informed him that Governor Harrison had purchased land from the Indians without any authority from the Government, and that one half of the people were opposed to the purchase. He also told the Governor that he, Harrison, had but two years mlore to remain in office, and that he, Tecumseh, could prevail upon the Indians who sold the lands not to receive their annuities for that time; that when the Governor was displaced, as he would be, and a good man appointed as his successor, lie would restore to the Indians all the lands purchased firom them. ” After Tccumnselh had concluded his speech, a Wyandotte, a Kickapoo, a Potawatomiie, an Ottawa, and a Winnebago chief, severally spoke, and declared that their tribes had entered into the “Shlawnee Confederacy,” and would support the principles laid down by Tecumseh, whom they had appointed their leader. At the conclusion of the council, the Governor informed Tecumseh that “lihe would immediately transmit his speech to the President, and as soon as his answer was received, would send it to him; but, as a person had been appointed to run the boundary line of the new purchase, he wished to know whether there would be danger in his proceeding to run the line.” Tecumseh replied, ” that hlie and his allies were determined that the old boundary line should continue, and that if the whites crossed it, it would be at their peril.” The Governor replied, “that since Tecumseh had been thus candid in stating his determination, lie would be equally so with him. The President, he was convinced, would never allow that the lands on the Wabash were the property of any other tribes than those whlo had occupied them and lived on them since the white people camle to America. And as the title to the lands lately purchased was derived from those tribes by fair purchase, he might rest assured that the right of the United States vwo-)uld be supported by the sword.” So be it,” was the stern and hlaughty reply of the Shawnee chieftain, as hlie and his braves took leave of the Governor and wended their way in Indian file to their camping ground. And thus ended the last conference on earth between the chivalrous and gallant Tecumseh, the Shawnee chliel, and hlie who since the period alluded to has ruled the destinies of the nation as its Chief Magistrate. The bones of the first lie bleaching on the battle field of the Thamies-those of the last are deposited in the mausoleum that covers them on the banks of the Ohio. 858

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~~ - –— I L L I N O I S. Area,………… Population in 1860……..

Population in 1870…….. THE State of Illinois is situated between 37~
and 42~ 30’ N. latitude, and between 87~ 30’ and 91~ 40’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Wisconsin, on the east by Lake Michigan and Indiana, on the south by Kentucky, and on the west by Missouri and Iowa.

It is separated from Kentucky by the Ohio, and from Missouri and Iowa by the Mississippi. One half of the eastern part is divided from Indiana by the Wabash. TOPOGRAPHY. There is a hilly region in the southern part, and some rugged country in the northwest; but as a general rule, the surface of Illinois is level, consisting in many parts of gently undulating prairies, which are covered with a luxuriant grass and an abundance of beautiful wild flowers. They also abound in wild fowl. Says a recent writer: ” The great landscape feature of Illinois is its prairies, which are seen in almost every section of the State. The want of variety, which is ordinarily essential to landscape attraction, is more than compensated for in the prairie scenery, as in that of the boundless ocean, by the impressive qualities of immensity and power. Far as the most searching eye can reach, the great unvarying plain rolls on; its sublime grandeur softened but not weakened by the occasional groups of trees in its midst, or by the forests on its verge, or by the countless flowers everywhere upon its surface. The prairies abound in game. The prairie duck, sometimes but improperly called grouse, 8 9 55,410 Square Miles. . 1,711,951 .

2,538,400

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. are most abundant in September and October, when large numbers are annually taken. Perhaps the most striking picture of the prairie country is to be found on Grand Prairie. Its gently undulating plains, profusely decked with flowers of every hue, and skirted on all sides by woodland copse, roll on through many long nmiles firom Jackson county, northeast to Iroquois county, with a width varying from one to a dozen or more miles. The uniform level of the prairie region is supposed to result from the deposit of waters by which the land was ag,es ago covered. The soil is entirely free from stones, and is extremely fertile.

The most notable characteristic of the prairies, their destitution of vegetation, excepting in the multitude of rank grasses and flowers, will gradually disappear, since nothing prevents the growth of the trees but the continual fires which sweep over the plains. These prevented, a fine growth of timb)er soon springs up; and as the woodlands are thus assisted in encroaching upon and occupying the plains, settlements, and habitations will follow, until the prairie tracts are overrun with cities and towns.

Of the thirtyfive and a half millions of acres embraced within the State, but thirteen millions, or little more than one-third, were improved in 1860, showing that despite her wonderful progress in population and production, she is yet only in her infancy. Excepting the specialty of the prairie, the most interesting landscape scenery of this State is that of the bold, aeclivitous river shores of the Mississippi, the Ohio, and thie Illinois rivers.” Lake Michigan forms the northern part of the eastern boundary. Chicago, the principal city, is situated near the southern end of the lake, and possesses a very large lake trade. The other towns on Lake Michigan are, Otsego, Waukegan, Rockland, and Evanston. The Mississippi River forms the western boundary of this State, and receives the waters of the Rock, Illinois, and Kaskaskia rivers, besides those of several smaller streams. The imrnportant places on the Mississippi, beginning on the north, are Galena, Rock Island, Oquawka, Quincy, Alton, East St. Louis, and Thebes. The Ohio River forms the southern boundary, and empties into the Mississippi, at the extreme southern end of the State. The city of Cairo is situated at the confluence of these two rivers, and is an important place. The Illinois River is the largest in the State. It is formed by the confluence of the Des Plaines and Kankakee, which unite at Appleton’s Hand-Book of Ainerican Travel. 860

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ILLINOIS. Dresden, in Grundy county, southwest of Lake Michigan. It flows across tie State in a southwestern direction, and empties into the Mississippi about 20 miles from Alton. It is about 320 miles long, and has been rendered navigable at all seasons, to Ottawa, 286 miles from the Mississippi. Peoria, 200 miles from its mouth, is the most important town on the river. The Fox and Sangamon rivers are its principal branches. The former rises ill Wisconsin, and is 200 miles long. It is a fine myill-stream; the latter rises in the east-cenltral part of the State, and flows west into the Illinois. It is 200 miles long, and is navigable at high water for small steamers. The Rock River ris-s in Fond du Lac county, in \Wisconsin, about 10 miles south of Lake WAVinnebago, and flows southward into Illinois, near the centre of the northern part of the State. It then turns to the southwest and flows across the State into the Mississippi, at Roclk Island City. It is 330 miles long, and though interrupted in several places by rapids, could be rendered navigable at a small expense; steamers have ascended it to Jefferson, Wisconsin, 225
miles. It flowss thlrou,gh one of the most beautifill and fertile portions of Illinois. fhe (ciskaskia -River rises in Champaign county, in the eastern part of the centre of the State, and flows southwest into the Mississippi a few miles below the town of Kaskaskia. It is 300 miles long, and is navigable for steamers fo) a considerable distance. The Vermilion, E~mbacrras, and Little )Tu-bash rivers, small streams, flow into the Wabash from this State. Several small lakes lie in the northern part of the State. MINERALS. There are extensive deposits of lead in the extreme northwestern part of this State, and extending into Wisconsin and Iowa.

The principal mines lie in the vicinity of Galena. Copper exists in large quantities in the northern part of the State. Bituminot coal abounds. Iron is also found in abundance in the north, and to a limited extent in the south, and it is said that silver has been discovered in St. Clair county.

There are a number of salt springs in the State, and a variety of medicinal springs. The other minerals are zinc, lime, marble, freestone, gypsum, and quartz crystals. CLIMATE. The climate is not very severe, but is subject to sudden changes. Deep snows are not of general occurrence, but occasionally take place, and at long intervals the rivers are frozen over. 861

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. Illinois is one of the richest agricultural States in the Confederacy. “The soils are all highly fertile and productive. In the bottoms, or alluvial borders of the rivers, the soil is chiefly formed froiii the deposits of water during flood. In some cases the mould so formed is twentyfive feet and upward in depth, and of inexhaustible fertility. A tract called the’American Bottom,’ extending along the Mississippi for ninety miles, and about five miles in average width, is of this formation. About the French towns it has been cultivated, and produced Indian corn every year, without manuring, for a century and a half. The prairie lands, although not so productive, are yet not inferior for many agricultural purposes, and are preferred, where wood is to be had, on account of their superior salubrity. The barrens, or oak openings, have frequently a thin soil.” The agricultural wealth of the State is thus summed up in the Report of the General Land Office for 1867: “In 1850, Illinois had 76,208 farms, valued at $96,133,290; in 1860, 144,338, valued at $408,944,033. The quantity of land in farms increased about 77 per cent. during the decade, the improved land 165 per cent., the cash value of farms about 325, and the value of farming implements and machinery nearly 200 per cent. “The value of live stock in 1850 was $24,299,258; in 1860, $72,501,225; and in 1865, according to the State returns, it had advanced to $123,770,554, showing an increase, during the ten years following 1850, of 200 per cent., or 20 per cent. per annum, and 70 per cent. for the five years following 1860, or 14 per cent. per annum.

“New York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio are the only States making larger quantities of butter; and, in the value of slaughtered animals, Illinois is exceeded only by New York. “In 1860, Illinois produced 23,837,023
bushels of wheat, and 115,174,777 bushels of Indian corn, being 14 bushels of wheat and 67 bushels of Indian corn to every man, woman, and child.

“The State surpassed all others in wheat and corn products, there having been cultivated upon its soil nearly one-seventh of the entire wheat and corn crop of the United States. In 1865, 177,095,852 bushels of Indian corn were produced, and 25,266,745 bushels of wheat. The entire grain crop in 1865, including Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, barley, and btickwheat, amounted to 232,620,173 bushels. The crop of p)otatoes was 5,864,408
bushels, tobacco, 18,867,722 pounds, and 862

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ILLINOIS. hay, 2,600,000 tons, the whole amounting in value to $116,274,322. Besides this, there were produced in 1865, 5,000,000 pounds of cotton, a branch of industry just beginning to receive attention, yet already pronounced one of the most profitable crops in the southern part of the State; also large quantities of grass-seeds, maple and sorghum sugar and molasses, flax, flaxseed, hemp, hops, silk cocoons, beeswax, honey, wine, butter and cheese, peas and beans. The wool clip in 1865 was over 6,000,000 pounds; orchard products of the value of $2,000,000, and marklet $500,000. “The year 1865 was unfavorable for wheat in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, the yield in each being less than either 1862, 1863, or 1864. Illinois then produced 32,213,500 bushels. “In every year since 1860, the State has maintained a position as the leading wheat and corn-growing region, while the product of other staples is annually increasing.” In 1869 the principal returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,….. ” Indian corn,.. ” oats,…. Irish potatoes,. ” rye,…. “
buckwheat,.. barley,… Pounds of butter,.2. Tons of hay……. Number of horses,….. ” mules and asses, ” milch cows,. ” sheep,.. ” swine,.. “
young cattle,. Value of domestic animals, COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.

Illinois possesses a large lake and river trade, dealing principally in agricultural products. The grain trade of Chicago is immense; the lumber trade is also important, and Chicago is at present the principal pork market of the Republic. Manufactures occupy a secondary place in Illinois.

In 1860, the State contained 4100 establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed a capital of $27,700,000, and 24,370 hands; consumed raw material worth $33,800,000, and yielded an annual product of $56,750,000. 863 29,200,000 121,600,000 35,726,000

7,500,000 675,000 251,000 1,250,000 28,052,551 2,800,000 1,340,320 99,450

850,340 1,340,120 3,502,820 2,320,500 $100,501,270

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. Illinois is one of the foremost States ill the Union in respect to its internal improvements. In 1868, there were 3250 miles of completed railroads in the State, constructed at a cost of $139,185,000. The Report of the General Land Office for 1867
thus refers to the in ternal improvements of this State: “The railroad system is on a scale commensurate with its advantageous position in respect to agriculture and internal commerce; 3160 miles are completed, and now in operation, 812 miles more are in course of construction, mnaking, in the aggregate 3979 miles, or one mile of railroad to 14 square miles of territory. Eight lines cross the eastern boundary of the State, and the Mississippi River is approached within the State by thirteen, connecting with the east and west through routes across the States of Missouri and Iowa, and northern routes through Wisconsin and Minnesota, westward to the Pacific, and eastward to the great trade marts of the Atlantic coast. Ill addition to the facilities thus afforded to comnmerce, a canal hlas been constructed from Lake Michigan, at Chicago, to La Salle, on the Illinois River, 100 miles in length, affording commllunication by water between the lake and the Mississippi. The canal is now being enlarged by deepening its channel to accommodate large class vessels, so that the waters of Lake Michigan will flow through to the Illinois River, the bed of which is improved so as to establish uninterrupted steami navigation at all seasons from the Mississippi, by way of the lakes and the St. Lawrence, to the Atlantic.” EDUCATION. There are twenty-four colleges in Illinois; the majority of them are in prosperous condition.

Some of them are really entitled to rank only as academies and seminaries.

The public school system is excellent. There is a permanent school fund, and taxes are levied for the support of the schools. In 1868, the amount thus expended in the State was $6,430,881. In the salne year there were 10,705 schools in the State, conducted by 19,037 teachers, and attended by 706,780 children. The State Normal Ulniversity is located at Normal, near the city of Bloomington, and is a flourishing institution, amply provided with buildings and grounds. At the close of the regular term, a Teachers’

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ILLINOIS. Institute is usually held for two weeks, and is attended by hundreds of teachers from all parts of the State. The State Itdustrial U)iversity is located at Quincy. It was opened in 1868, and has a good number of students. It embraces the following schools: Science, Literature, and Arts; Agriculture; MIechanical Science and Art; Military Tactics and Engineering; Minling and Metallurgy; Civil Engineering; Analytical and Applied Cheimistry; Natural History and Practical Geology; Commercial Science and Art. Students may choose their studies, provided they are sufficiently advanced to keep utip with the regular classes. The educational system of the State is under the general supervision of a State Superintendent of Public Schools, who is elected by the people for four years. He has power to make such rules as he may deem necessary for the government of the schools, and his construction of existing laws upon this subject must be accepted by his subordinates. He reports once in two years to the Legislature. Each county is in charge of a County Superintendent, who is required to visit the schools and direct their general operations. He reports biennially to the State Superintendent.

Each township elects its Trustees, who have the immediate management of its schools. They rel)ort once in two years to the County Superintendent.

Each District has three Directors, who manage the finances of the schools.

All teachers are required to possess certificates of competency from the State or County Superintendent. A County Su)erintendent’s certificate is good for two years in the county in which it is issued. The State Superintendent’s certificate is good in any part of Illinois during the life of its holder. In 1867, there were 640 private schools in Illinois, attended by 20,907 pupils. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Penitentiary is located at Joliet, and was completed in 1868. “The whole area of land pertaining to the Penlitentiary is 72.19 acres; whole area within main wall, 16 acres; the main wall is 25 feet high and 6 feet thick; there are 100 cells for separate system, 7 by 15 feet, and 15 feet high, 900 cells for congregate system, and 100 cells for females, 4 by 7 feet, and 7 feet high. Each cell has a distinct ventilating tube extending to roof, with two registers in eacl. All partitions, floors, and ceiling of cells are formed each of one stone, 55 865

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. eight inches thick. The buildings and walls stand on rock foundation. All the buildings and grounds are supplied with pure water from a spring at the bluff; the buildings are warmed by steam; the kitchen and wash rooms are filrnished with steam and other cookiiig and washing fixtures of the most modern and approved kinds. The engines, of 150 horse power each, furnish the motive power for the mnachinery, running nearly 1500 feet of heavy line shafting. Altogether, it is one of the most complete prisons ill the United States, as well as the most extensive and best arranged manufacturing establishment in the West. Until July, 1867, the labor of convicts had been farmed out to contractors, who were bound to meet all the expenses of the prison. At that date, the State assumed entire control. A Board of Commissioners was appointed by the Governor, and this Board selected a Warden, who has the general management of the prison, under the direction of the Commissioners. All minors under the age of 18, except for the crime of robbery, burglary, or arson, convicted of any criminal offence, are exempted from punishment in the Penitentiary.

They may be fined and sent to county jail, or either, for misdemeanors, but for higher crimes are always sent to the county jail. The number of these young offenders is steadily increasing in the State.” * The Illinois State Hospital for the Insane, the Institution for the Ecuecttioi of the Blind, and the Institution for (Idiots and Ilnbeciles, are located at Jacksonville. They are admirably organized and conducted, and are filrnished with commodious buildings. They take rank among the first institutions of a similar nature in the Union. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 2424 churches in Illinois. The value of church property was $6,890,810. LIBRARIES AND NEWSPAPERS. In 1860, there were 854
libraries in Illinois, containing 244,394 volumes. Of these, 246 are public libraries. In the same year the number of newspapers and periodicals pul)lished in the State was as follows: daily, 23; semiweekly, 1; triweekly, 6; weekly, 238; monthly, 17; making a total of 285, with an aggregate annual circulation of 27,464,764 copies. * American Year-Book, vol. i., p. 321. 866

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ILLINOIS. FINANCES. On the 30th of November, 1870, the State debt amounted to $4,890,937, with;3,082,104 in the Treasury applicable to its payment.

The receipts of the treasury for the fiscal year ending November 30, 1868, were $2,276,763, and the expenditures $2,126,668. The estimated revenue for 1871 is $3,124,316. In 1868, there were 83 National banks, with a capital of $12,070,000 doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. Every male citizen, 21 years old, who has resided in the State one year, and in the county ninety days, is entitled to vote at the elections. The government of the State is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 51 members chosen for four years, onehalf retiring biennially), and a House of Representatives (of 153 members, chosen for two years), all elected by the people. All the State officers, except the Treasurer, whose term is two years, are chosen for four years.

The Legislature meets annually on the first Monday in January. The courts of the State are, the Supreme Judicial Court, 28 Circuit Courts, and Justices’ Courts. The Supreme Court consists of three divisions, corresponding to the three divisions of the State, and has appellate jurisdiction only. The city of Chicago has its own courts. The seat of Government is established at Springfield. Thie State is divided into 102
counties. HISTORY. This State was first known to the whites by the name of “The Illinois Country,” and was first explored, in 1673, by Marquette (a missioniary), and Joliet, who came from Canada, and were followed by La Salle and Hennepin. About the year 1693, mission stations were established by the French at Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and Peoria. During the early part of the eighteenth century the French made several settlements on the lower Mississippi, and a Jesuit monastery was established at Kaskaskia. Towards the middle of the eighteenth century, the British began to advance their claims to the Illinois 867

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. (ou lltry, and the French commenced to build new forts and strengthen tihe old ones to resist them. In 1763, all the French possessions east of the Mississippi were ceded to Great Britain, who thus became mistress of the Illinois country. During the Revolution the British had posts at Kaskaskia, Cahlokia, and St. Vincent (the latter now Vincennes, Indiana). They were captured by General Rogers Clark, the American conmmander in this region, in one of the most memorable campaigns in our history. In 1784, Virginia ceded her territory northwest of the Ohio River (of which Illinois then formed a part) to the United States. In 1800, the Territory of Indiana was formed, embracing the country between the State of Ohio and the Mississippi, and, in 1809, Illinois was erected into a separate Territory, with its present name. It grewv rapidly in population, and on the 23d of December, 1818, was admitted into the Union as a sovereign State. During the war of 1812 the settlers suffered much from the savages and British. In the year 1812, Captain Heald, commanding Fort Dearborn, which occupied the site of the present city of Chicago, was directed by General Hlull, who surrendered Detroit to the British, to evacuate that post, distribute his stores among the Indians, and retire to Fort Wayne, in Indiana. Captain Heald had no colnfidence in the savages, and threw his powder into the wells, and poured his whiskey on the ground.

This done, he abandoned the fort, and set out oni his march to Indiana.

The savages were particularly anxious to obtain the powder and whiskey, and were so exasperated at failing to secure them that they fell upon the garrison after it had proceeded two miles from the fort, and massacred 41
men, 2 women, and 12 children. This terrible occurrence for a long time cast a gloom over the Territory. In 1832, during the prevalence of the Black Hawk War, the northern part of the State suffered much from the depredations of thie savages. In 1840, the Mormons, being driven out of Missouri, settled on the east bank of the MIississippi, in this State, and founded a city which they called Nauvoo. They were granted extraordinary privileges by the State, but were the object of the bitter hatred of the inhabitants of the surrounding country. Several conflicts occurred between thle two parties, and the State militia was called out to preserve the peace. Joseph Smith, the Mormon leader and “Prophet,” and his brother, Hiram, were imprisoned in the jail at Carthage, where , 6 8

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ILLINOIS. STATE IIOUSE, SPRINGFIELD. they were attacked by a mob and assassinated, on the 27tll of June, 1844. The prisoners were at the time under the protection of the State, and this made the assassination all the more outrageous. Like all such violent acts, it failed of its object, and made the success of Mormonism more certain. Soon after this, the Mormons abandoned Nautvoo, and began their emigration to their present home ill Utah. During the late war, the State of Illinois furnished (to December 1, 1864) 197,364 troops to the service of the United States. CITIES AND

TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of Illinois are, Chicago, Peoria, Quincy, Bellville, Alton, Rockford, Galena, and Bloomington. SPRINGFIELD, The capital and fourth city of the State, is situated in Sangamon county, 3 miles south of the Sangamon River, 97 miles northeast of St. Louis, and 188 miles southwest of Chicago. Latitude 39~

48’ N.; longitude 89~ 33’ W. The city lies near the centre of the State, and is built on the open prairie which surrounds it in every direction. It is regularly laid out, and is well built. The streets are 869

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. wide and straight, an(l are ornamented with shade trees. Fromn the abundance of its shrubbery and floral ornaments SpringfieJld has been called “the City of Flowers.” Many of the resi(lences are large and handsomie, and the business section contains numttlerous showy buildings. The Stcate House is an elegant structure, and stands in a beautiful square of three acres, in the centre of the city. On the streets facing the square are the various public buildings of the State and city. The Cotrt Hou,se and State Arsenal are the other prominent buildings. The city contains about 13 churches, several public and private schools, the llinois State UiTiversity, 2 hotels, and 5 newspaper offices, and is li,ghted with gas. It is governed by a MNayor and Council. Ill 1870, the population was 17,365. Lying, in a country unsurpassed in fertility, Springfield is a place of considerable commercial importance.

It has railway connections with Chicago and St. Louis, and with all parts of the State and the West. It is also engaged in the manufacture of flour, woollen goods, and iron ware. In the vicinity are extensive beds of bituminous coal. The city is noted as having been the home of the late President Lincoln. Iil the picturesque cemetery of Oak Ridge, two miles north of the city, the statesman lies buried. Springfield was first settled in 1819. In 1822 it was formally laid out, and in 1837 it became the capital of the State. CHICAGO, The metropolis of the State, is the fifth city of the Republic and the second city of the Western States. It is situated in Cook county, on the western side of Lake Michigan, about 30
miles north of its southern end, at the mouth of the Chicago River, on the margin of a prairie several miles in width. It is 188 miles northeast of Springfield, 285 miles northeast of St. Louis, 300 miles nortlnvest of Cincinnati, 928 miles northwest of New York, and 763 miles northwest of WAVashington. The site of Chicago is low, being but five feet above the lake, but sufficiently elevated to prevent inundation. “The general direction of the lake shore here is north and south. The water, except at the mouth of the river, is shoal, and vessels, missing the entrance ground, go to pieces in a storm within 100 yards of the shore. The harbor of Chicago is the river, and nothing lmore. It is a short, deep, slugglish stream, creeping through the black, fat mud of the prairie, and 870

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i I i I

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ILLINOIS. in some places would hardly be thought worthy of a name; but it makes itself wonderfully useful here. Outside of its mouth a vessel has no protection, nor are there any piers or wharves. The mouth of the river has been docked and dredged out, to afford a more easy entrance; but, after you are once illn, it narrows to a mere canal, from 50 to 75 yards ill width. The general course of the river, for about threefourths of a mile, is at right angles with the lake shore, and this portion is kuown as the Chicago River. It here divides, or more properly, two branches unite to form it, coming fromnt opposite direc tions, and at nearly right angles to the main stream. These are called, respectively, the’North Branch’ and the’South Branch,’ and are each navigable for some 4 miles, giving, in thie aggregate, a river firont of some 15 or 16 miles, capable of being increased by canals and slips, some of which have already been constructed. Into the’South Branch’ comes the Illinois Canal, extending from this point 100 miles to La Salle, on the Illinois River, forming water communicationi between the lakes and the Mississippi. For the want of a map, take the letter H; call the upright column on the right hand the lake shore; let the cross-bar represent the Chicago River, the left hand column will stand for the two branches, and you have a plan of the water lines of the City of Chicago, which will answer very well for all purposes of general description. The general divisions thus formed are called, respectively,’ North Side,”South Side,”West Side.’ In this narrow, muddy river, lie the heart and strength of Chicago. Dry this up, and Chicago would dry up witll it, mean and dirty as it looks. From the mouth of the St. Joseph River, in Michigan, round to Milwaukie, in the State of Wisconsin, a distance, by the lake shore, of more than 2o0 miles, Chicago is the only place where 20 vessels can be loaded or unloaded, or find shelter in a storm. A glance at the map, then, will show that it is the only accessible port-and hence the commercial centre-of a vast territory, measuring thousands of square miles of the richest agricultural country in the Wiorld.” The harbor is being gradually deepened to admnit vessels of a large class, and is being so greatly improved at the expense of the General Government that it will soon be one of the best on the lakes. The city is regularly laid out in rectangular l)locks, with the streets having an average width of 80 feet. Fron the lake the city extends westward for about 5 miles. Its length, parallel with the lake, is about 8 miles. The ground gradually rises to tlhe westward to an extent sumlfreit to drain the city thoroughly. The streets are paved 871

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THE GREAT REPUBLI,IC. to a great extent with the Nicholson pavement of wooden blocks. Until 1856, most of the streets of Chicago were planked, and the buildings then erected were generally without cellars.

Consequently ill the spring of the year the ground asserted its original character of a swamp. Since 1856, it has become necessary to change the grade of the city several times, and this has made a difference of from two to five feet in the original level. Tile process of raisiQg the houses of Chicago was one of great interest. Buildings of immense size, and even entire blocks, were raised several feet above their original level without a crack being made in them, or a single thing displaced. During all this time the houses were occupied, and the business and every day life of the occupants went on as usual. The following account from the Chicayo Tribune, of the raising of a entire block of business houses, in thie spring of 1860, will show how the work was carried on: “For the past week the marvel and the wond(ler of our citizens and visitors has been the spectacle of a solid front of firstclass business blocks, comprising the entire block on the north side of Lake street, between Clark and La Salle streets, a length of 320 feet, being raised about four feet by the almost resistless lifting force of 6000 screws. The block comprises 13
firstclass stores, and a large doul)le marble structure, tile Marine Bank Building. Its subdivisions are a five-story marble front block of three stores; a second four-story b-)lock of three stores, and a five-story block of four stores, at the corner of Clark street-these all presenting an unbrolkeni front, in the heart of our city, and filled with occupants.

This absence from annoyance to the merchants and the public was due to the skill with which the contractors hung the side walks to the block itself, and carried up the same with the rise of the building. The block was raised four feet eight inches, the required height, in five days, when the masons put iii the permanent supports. The entii-work occupied about four weeks. An estimate from a reliable source made the entire weight thus raised about 35,000 tons. So carefully was it done, that not a pane of glass was broken, nor a crack in masonry appeared. The internal order of the block prevailed und(listurbedl. The process of raising, as indicated above, was by the screw, at 6000 of whiclh, three inches in diameter and of three-eighths thread, 600 men were employed, each man in charge of from eight to ten screws. A complete system of signals was kept in operation, and by these the workmen passed, each through his series, giving each screw a quarter turn, 872

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ILLIINOIS. THE TRIBUNE BUILDING. then returning to repeat the same. Five days’ labor saw the immense weight rise through four feet eight inches, to where it stood on temporary supports, while rapidly being replaced by permanent foundations. The work, as it stands, is worth going mniles to see, and has drawn the admiration of thousands within the past week.”

Chicago is one of the most magnificent cities on the Continent, and is often called the “N ew York of the West.” The business streets are lined with splendid warehouses, which have no superiors in elegance and convenience in any of the Eastern cities. Iron, stone, and marble are in common use. Lake street is the Broadway of Chicago, while Michigan avenue and Wabash avenue are lined with princely edifices, and are adorned with rows of luxuriant trees. South Water street is devoted to the heavy wholesale trade. Many of the private residences on the north and west side of the river are handsomely built, and are surrounded with elegantly ornamented grounds. I 873

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Chicago River is crossed by numerous bridges, uniting the various l)arts of the city. Thlese are all drawbridges, made so ill order not to interfere with the navigation of the river. They are hung in the mniddle, and turn on a pivot, only two men being needed for each bridge. In 1867-8, a tunnel was built under the river, and is now in constant use by vehicles and pedestrians. It is the only work of the kind in America, and with the exception of the Thames Tunnel, in Lonldoll, the only one in the world. Street railways connect the various portions of the corporate limits. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from Lake I\iclli,gan. The water is brouglht into the city by means of a tunnel, extending, fron the shore, under the bed of the lake, to a crib or well built up inll the lake, two miles from the land. The depth of the shore shlaft is 69 feet, and of the lake shaft 64 feet. The crib is simply a well into Nwhich the water of the lake is allowed to flow, and firom which it makes its way to the city through the tunnel, which is nearly circular in form, being 5 feet 2 inches high, and 5 feet 2 inches wide. It is enclosed in brick masonry, 8 inches thick. The cost of the entire work was about $1,000,000. The city contains two artesian wells of great value.

They are respectively 911 and 694 feet deep, and flow about 1,200,000
gallons daily. The principal public buildingis are the Custon I1ouse, in which is the Post Office, a fine building of stone; the Chamber of Commerce, a beautiful edifice of white marble; the Court House; Crosby’s Opera House; and the -Jlerchaits’ E.vchange. There are about 1 12 churches in the city. Some of which lpossess handsome buildings. The schools of the city, both public and private, are noted for their excellence. There are about 27 public schools, 3 commercial colleges, and 24 Roman Catholic convents and sclhools in operation. The institutions of the higher class are the University of Chlicutgo, founded by the late Senator Douglas, and possessing a series of etgaunt buildings; the Chicafco Theoloyica!

Seminary; the Presbyterii(‘t Theoloqical Secainary; the Uiiversity of St.

Jliary of t he Lake; thle Rush Medi cal Colle.qe, and two other medical colleges. The Dearborn Observatory possesses a fine telescope. The Academy of Sciences has a collection of 38,000 specimens in the various departments of natural history. The Ilistorical Soeiety Library numbers 85,000 bound and unbound books and pamphlets. The library of the Young Afen’s Association contains about 10,000 volumes; that of the Law Institute nlumbers over 8000 volumes. 874

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ILLINOIS. The charitable and benevolent institutions are numerous and well manag,ed. The principal are the United States.Marine Hosp)ital; the Cools County Ho.spital; the /laydlalen Asyluam; the Protestant Orpolean Asylum?; the Home for the _dIiendless; St. Joseph’s (miale) and St. Jlct-y’s (female) orphan asylums; and the Soldiers’ ]iome. The city contains about 5 theatres, and a number of concert and lecture halls, and second-class places of aniusemenit. The cemeteries are 12 in number. Graceland, Rose Hill, Calvary, and Oakwvoods are the principal. They are all situated beyond the city limits. The city contains a number of handsome public squares. The principal of these are the Esplanade or Lake Park, and Dearborn, Union, Jefferson, and Lincoln Parks. With the exception of the last, these contain from 1 to 5 acres each. Lincoln Park embraces anl area of 60 acres, fronting on the lake, and will eventually be the handsomest pleasure-ground in the West. The hotels of Chicago are amnong the best in the country, including 4 or 5 firstclass establishments, and several inferior houses. The Treiiiont, Shermnan, Richmond, and Briggs’ touses are the leading establishments. The city is supplied withl an efficient police force and steam fire department, a police and fire alarm telegraph, and is governed by a 5layor and Council elected by the people. IJ 1870, the population was 298,977. The position of Chicago on the lake and its connections by railway with the rest of the Union have made it one of the most important places in America. Possessing now one of the best harbors on the great chain of lakes, it controls a large share of the enormous trade of those inland seas, and its water communication with the Gulf of Maexico is made sure by means of the Michigan and Illinois Canal, which is so constructed as to turn the current of the CIhicago River into the navigable portion of the Illinois River. This canal is being deepened so as to admit the passage of steamers from the Illinois to Chicago and the lakes. Fifteen lines of railway centre here, and afford rapid and direct communication with all parts of the Union. Lines of steamships ply between Chicago and the various ports on Lakes Michigan, Huron, and Superior. Some idea of the lake trade of Chicago may be gained from the following statement published by the Custom House authorities of the port. The statement is for the year 1870: k 875

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A THE GREAT REPUBLIC. During the months of April, May, June, July, August, September, October and November, the following number of vessels entered and cleared the port of Clicago, and those of the other cities mentioned: l];tel -ed. Cle.ared.

Chicago…………………………………………………… 12,546

12,358 New York…………………………………….. 5757 6158

Philadelphia……………………………………………. 2098 1698

Baltimore…………………………………………….. 1736 1866

New Orleans………………………………………….. 1148 1352

San Francisco………………………………….. 468 499

Mobile………………………………………………….. 456 408

Savannah………………………………………………… 596 610

Entered at Chicago during the eight imontl,s of navigation… 12,546

Entered at other ports during the same time…………………… 12,259

Chicago’s
excess………………………………………………………..

287 Average tonnage of vessels entered at Chicago………………..

239,921 Average tonnage of vessels entered at New York…………….

599,661 Chicago is the largest interior grain marklet in the world. In 1838, the first shipment of wheat was made, and consisted of 78 bushels.

In 1867, the total receipts of grain and flour were as follows: 1,814,236
barrels of flour; 13,090,868 bushels of wheat; 23,018,827 bushels of corn; 10,988,617 bushels of oats; 1,306,204 bushels of rye; 2,246,446 bushels of barley; in all, equal to 59,722,142 bushels of grain, the heaviest amount received in any one year. The grain elevators of Chicago are among, its greatest curiosities. There are about 17 in all, possessing an aggregate capacity of 10,055,000 bushels. An Englislh traveller thus describes them “An elevator is as ugly a monster as has been yet produced. In uncouthness of fo)rm it outdoes those obsolete old brutes who used to roam about the semi-aqueous world, and live a most uncomfortable life with their great hungering stomachs and huge unsatisfied maws. The elevator itself consists of a big moveable trunk-n-moveable as is that of an elephant, but not pliable, and less graceful even than an elephant’s. This is attached to a huge granary or barn; but in order to give altitude within the l)arn for the necessary moving up and down of this trunk-seeing that it cannot be curled gracefully to its purposes as the elephant’s is curled-there is an awkward box erected on the roof of the barn, giving some twenty feet of additional height, up into which the elevator can be thrust. It will be understood, then, that this big moveable trunk, the head of which, when it is at rest, is thrust up into the box on the roof, is made to slant down in an oblique direction from the building to the river; for the ele 876

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-— 7 — - - ~ —-~A __ - SCENE ON LAKE STREET. v’tor is an amphibious institution, and flourishes only on the banks of navigable waters. Vhen its head is ensconced witi~iu its box, and the beast of prey is thus nearly hidden within the building, the Unsuspicious vessel is brought up wifliin reach of tlie creature’s trunk, and down it comes, like a mosquito’s proboscis, right through tiie deck, in at the open aperture of the hold, and so into the very vitals and bowels of the ship. Yhen there, it goes to worJ npon its food with a greed and an avidity that is disgusting to a beholder of any taste or imagination. And now I must explain the ai~atomical arrangen~ent by which tlie elevator still devours and continues to devour till the corn withii~ its reach has all been swallowed, niasticated, and digested. Its bug trunk, as seen slanting down from out of H~e buildlug across tlie wharf and into the ship, is a mere wooden pipe; but this pipe is divided within. It has two departments; and as the grain-bearing troughs pass Up the one on a pliable band, they pass empty down the other. The system, therefore, is that of an ordinary dredging machine; only that corn and not mud is taken away, and that the buckets or troughs are hidden from sight. Below, within the

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. stomach of the poor bark, three or four laborers are at work, helping to feed the elevator. They shovel the corn up toward its maw, so that at every swallow he should take in all that he can llold.

Thus the troughs, as they ascend, are kept full, and when they reach the upper building they empty themselves into a slloot, over which a porter stands guard, moderating the shoot by a door, wliichl the weight of his finger can open and close. Through this doorway the corn runs into a measure, and is weighed. By measures of forty bushels each, the tale is kept. There stands the apparatus, with the figures plainly marked, over against the porter’s eye; and as the sum mounts nearly up to forty bushels he closes the door till the grains run thinly tliroI-gh, hardly a handful at a time, so that the balance is exactly struck. Then the teller standing by marks down his figure, and the record is made. The exact porter touches the string of another door, and the forty bushels of corn rut out at the bottom of the measure, disappear downi another shoot, slanting also toward the water, and deposit themselves in the canal boat. The transit of the bushels of corn from the larger vessel to the smaller will have taken less than a minute, and the cost of that transit will have been-a fartliiung.

“But I have spoken of the rivers of wheat, and I mnust explain what are those rivers. In the working of the elevator, which I have just attempted to describe, the two vessels were supposed to be lying at the same wharf, on the same side of the building, in the s:Ile water, the smaller vessel inside the larger one. When this is the case, the corn runs direct fromn the weigllig measure into the shloot that communicates with the canal boat. But there is not room or time for confining the work to one side of the building. There is water on both sides, and the corn or wheat is elevated on the one side, and reshipped on the other. To effect this, the corn is carried across the breadth of the building; but, nevertheless, it is never handled or moved in its direction on trucks or carriages requiring the use of men’s muscles for its motion. Across the floor of the building are two gutters, or channels, and through these small troughs on a pliable band circulate very quickly. They which run one way, in one channel, are laden; they which run by the other channel are ernm)ty. The corn pours itself into these, and they again pour it into the shoot whichlcommands the other water. And thus rivers of corn are running through,l these buildings night and day. The secret of all the motion and arrangement consists, of course, in the elevation. The corn is lifted up; and when lifted up, can move itself and arrange itself, and weigh itself, and load itself.” ie 878

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ILLINOIS. Next to its trade in grain is the lumber trade of Chicago; the city being the most important lumber market in the United States. In 1867, there were received here 861,912,900 feet of lumber, 432,261,000
shingl,les, and 143,847,000 pieces of laths. Chicago ranks next to New York as a beef and cattle market. In 1864, its receipts were 336,627 head.

As a beef-packing point it is unsurpassed by any city on the continent, its annual packing amounting to about 100,000 head. As a pork-packing point it is the first in the Union, having sur passed Cincinnati some years ago. In 1864-5, 760,514 hogs were killed and packed here. In the same year, the total receipts of hogs at Chicago amounted to 1,410,320.

The pork houses of Chica,go are models of their kind, and are richly worth visiting. The pork house is usually a substantial structure of brick, of about 180 by 160 feet on the ground floor, with a large and commodious lard house adjoining, but separated from it by a heavy brick wall and iron doors to prevent the steam and vapor from entering the main building. The pork house is three stories high, with a strong, double, flat roof, and this roof is arranged into convenient pens, the whole being capable of containing 4000 hogs at once. The lower floor is used for curing and storing the meat, the second for packing and shil)pping, and the third for cooking and cutting up the hogs. As soon as the hogs arrive at the pork house, they are driven up an inclined plane to the pens at the top of the building. Thley are allowed to remain there two nights and a day. By this arrangemenit they are given an abundance of pure, fresh air, and are brought to the best possible sanitary condition. If they were killed immediately after hard exercise and excitement, as in driving them to the slaugh,ter pens, the flesh would be inI a high state of fever, the marrow in a semi-fluid condition, and this would produce what is known as foul joints, and the mneat would in a shlort time becorre tainted and eventually unfit for use. Wlien the time for killing arrives, twenty hogs are driven into a pen with a fine grated floor. A man enters tl-he pen, and with a long hammner deals each hog a blow on the forehead between the eyes, which fells him to the floor. He is followed lby another man, who cuts thie throat of each animal with a sharp) knife, the blood flowing throtugh the grated floor into gutters which conduct it to a large tank outside the building. Another lot of hogs is driven into an adjoining pen, and the same process gone through with. 0. 879

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. When the hogs have been bled sufficiently, they are, one at a time, slid down an inclined plane into a large scalding tub or vat, in which the water is kept at a regular temperature by steam coils.

Here they are floated along slowly until they reach the table at the opposite end, where they are taken out by a very simple contrivance worked by one man. After being placed upon the table, they are passed along through the hands of different men, each of whom has stated duties to perform. The first two take from the back in an instant all the bristles suitable for the brushmaker or cobbler, and deposit them in barrels for removal; eight or ten pairs more of men strip the hog of its coat, and clean it, when the gambrel stick is put into it, and it is swung to all overhead railway, and thoroughly drenched with cold water to remove all impurities. It is then opened and the intestines removed, after which it is again drenched with cold water, and the back bone is split down, and the leaf lard loosened. It is then taken to the cooling room, and allowed to remain there two days, in which time all animal heat disappears. The hog is then cut up. One blow from an immense cleaver severs the head from the body. Another man cuts away the hind-parts containing the hams, and the remainder of the hog is cut up according to the requirements of the market, the leaf lard being taken away by hand. So rapidly is the cutting process performed, that two expert men can easily cut up over 2000 hogs in eight hours, though the day’s work is generally confined to about 1200
head. The process is completed in the curing room. Here a solution of saltpetre is liberally applied to all the green meat, except the shoulders; and, while wet, it is covered with salt, and packed away in tiers to dry. In three weeks it is handled again; receives a second dressing of salt, and is allowed to stand seven days more, when it is cured, and ready for packing. After the small intestines are removed from the hog, they are taken by men and boys, and all the fat is separated from them and placed in large vats of water to wash it clean, going through two waters, when it is ready to be put into the lard tank. The lard house is, like the main building, three stories in height. In the second story are seven large iron tanks, extending up through the ceiling into the third story, where they are each provided with an opening used for filling them.

Ini these tanks all the fatty substances used for making lard are placed until the vessels are full. The mass is then subjected to a jet of steam from the boilers, of a 880

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ILLINOIS. pressure of fifteen pounds to the square inch. Each tank is provided with a safety valve, so that onl reaching the mnaxinmumr pressure al lowed the steam passes off, causing a continuous flow of steam through the whole mass. By this process every particle of lard is set free from the mass. After the steam has been kept on for a certain time, a faucet is opened midway of the tank, or about where the lard and water meet, and the former is drawn off into an immense clarifying vessel, in wvhich, oil being subjected to a heat of 300 degrees Fahrenheit, it is thoroughly cleared of all impurities, a part rising to the top of the lard, where it is skimmed off, and the rest settling at the bottom, from whichll it is drained off by a faucet. The remainder is the purest aind sweetest lard that can be made, being entirely free from any unpleasant odor, and as agreeable to the taste as new, unsalted butter. The refuse material is used in various ways, nothing that can be put to any conceivable use being thrown away. The salt trade of Chicago is also important, varying from 650,000 to 775,000 barrels annually. Il 18(67, there were 7500 buildings erected in Chicago, at a cost of $7,500,000. The name of the city is said to have been derived as follows: Along the shores of the river the wild onion was found in great abundance, to which the Indians gave the name Chi-ka-jo, from which the word Chicago is derived. The first white men to visit the spot were the early French Jesuit missionaries and fur traders.

Father Marquette visited it in 1673, and Perrot about the year 1770. At that time, this territory was in possession of the Miami Indians, but subsequently the Potawatomies crowded the Miamis back, and became the sole possessors, until the year 1795, when they became parties to a treaty with WVayne, by which a tract of land, six miles square, at the mouth of the Chicago River, was ceded to the United States-thie first extinction of Indian title to the land on which Chicago is built. In 1804, Fort Dearborn was built by the United States on the point south of the river, near its mouth. In 1812, the Government, becoming apprehensive that a fort so far advanced from the frontiers could not be successfully held against the British and their allies, ordered its evacuation. On the 12th of August, Captain Heald, the commandant, marched out of the fort with his little garrison, consisting of about 75 persons in all, and commenced his withdrawal along the lake shore. When he had gotten about two miles from the fort he was attacked 56 .1, 881

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by the Potawatomie Indians, and 52 persons, viz., 12 militia, 26 regulars, 2 women and 12 children, were killed and wounded. The rest succeeded in escaping. The Indians destroyed the fort, but it was rebuilt in 1816, under Captain Bradley. The fort was held as a military post until 1837, when the Indians having left the country, it was abandoned. In 1831, Chicago contained a few log, cabins whllich had sprung up around the fort, and about a dozen families besides the officers and soldiers in Fort Dearborn. On the 26th of September, 1833, the town was laid out, and on the 4th of March, 1837, received its first charter. At that time, it contained 4470 inhabitants. It remained stationary until about 1840, when it began its remarkable career of prosperity. The following table will show its rapid growthl during the past thirty years: THE GREAT REPUBLIC.

Popular ion. ……………………………………………4853

………………… 29,963 ………………………… 109,420

……………………………. 298,977 QUINCY, In Adams county, is the second city of the State. It is situated on the eastern or left bank of the Mississippi, 160 miles above St. Louis, 268 miles southwest of Chicago, and 109 miles west of Springfield. The city is built on a limestone bluff, 125 feet above the river, of which it commands beautiful and extensive views. It is well built, and contains a number of handsome edifices. Some of the residences are tasteful and elegant. It is lighted with gas an(l supplied with water. It contains several excellent public and private schools, 24 churches, 10 public halls, a court house, and 5
newspaper offices. Two of these journals are printed in the German language, a large proportion of the inhabitants being of German origin.

The city is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 24,052. Quincy is actively engaged in the Mississippi River trade, and the landing is usually thronged with steamboats. The city is the terminus of two lines of railway, which connect it with all parts of the West on both sides of the Mississippi. The surrounding country is an extensive, fertile, and highly cultivated prairie; and( of this reg,ion Quincy is the principal market. The city is to a limited extent engaged in manufactures; iron, tobacco, lumber, flour, ma 882 Year,l. 1840,. 1850,. 1860,. 1870,.

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ILLINOIS. QUINCY. chincry and carriages being the principal articles produced. About 100,000 hogs are packed here annually. Quincy was settled about the year 1822, the first inhabitant being John WTood, of the State of New York. In 1825, the town wvas laid out by order of the county court.

It received its name on the day that John Quincy Adamis was inaugurated President of the United States. The Indians continued in the vicinity as late as 1832, when the Black Hawk War occurred. At the time of the first settlement of the town, there were but three white inhabitants within the limits of the present county of Adamis. These were obliged to go to Atlas, 40 miles distant, where there was a horse-mill, in order to have their corn meal ground, this being their principal breadstuff. PEORIA, In the county of the same name, is the third city of the State. It is situated on the right or western bank of the Illinois River, at the outlet of Peoria Lake, 70 miles north of Springfield, 151 miles southwest of Chicago, and 193 miles from the mouth of the Illinois River. The city is located on elevated ground, above the highest stage of the water, and slopes down gradually to the river’s edge. The city is regularly laid out; the streets are nearly all 100 feet wide, and are well graded, and often shaded with trees. A traveller, writing of it, says: 883

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. “Peoria is the most beautiful town on the river.

Situated on rising ground, a broad plateau, extending back from the bluff, it has escaped the almost universal inundation. The river here expands into a broad, deep lake. This lake is a most beautiful feature in the scenery of the towni, and as useful as beautiful, supplying the inhabitants with ample stores of fish, and in winter with an abundance of the purest ice. It is often frozen to such a thickness that heavy teams can pass securely over it. A substantial drawbridge connects the town with the opposite shore of the river. Back of the town extends one of the finest rolling prairies in the State, which furnishes to Peoria its supplies and much of its business.” The city contains 28 churches, several excellent public schools, 5 daily newspapers, a city hall, and the county buildings. It is lighted with gas and supplied with water, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. The population in 1870 was 22,849. Peoria is the most populous town on the Illinois River, and one of the most important commercial points inll the State. The river is navigable for steamers at all stages of the water, and navigation is only suspended in the season of ice. By means of it large quantities of grain, pork, lumber, and ice are exported. Regular lines of steamers ply between Peoria and St. Louis, and the Michigan and Illinois Canal affords steamboat communication with Chicago. Several lines of railway centre here, and afford rapid and sure connections with all parts of the State. The city is largely engaged in distilling whiskey, and is interested in manufactures to a limited extent.

Peoria was first visited by Joseph Marquette and M. Joliet, in 1673. In 1680, La Salle erected a fort and tia(ling-post here. After the conquest of Canada, Illinois passed into the hands of the English. In 1796, Peoria was described as “an Indian village, composed of pseudo savages, made of the native tribe of Peoriaco Ind(lians, and Canadian French, a few Indian traders and hunters.”- In December, 1812, this settlement was burned by the American forces. In 1813, Fort Clark was erected on the spot by order of Governor Edwards. In 1819, the actual settlement of the present town was begun. In 1831, Peoria was incorporated as a town, and in 1844 as a city. GALENA, In Jo Daviess county, is the fifth city of the State. It is situated on Fevre River, 6 miles from its entrance into the Mississippi, 250 mliles north-by-west of Springfield, 160 miles west-northwest of Chicago, 884

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ILLINOIS. 1651 miles above New Orleans, and 450 miles above St. Louis. “

Thle river, sometimes called the Galena, on whose rocky shelf this town is built, is more properly an arm of the Mississippi River, sitting up between lofty bluffs, around whose base it winds with picturesque effect.

The streets rise one above another, and (conmmunicate with each other by flights of steps, so that the houses on the highl-er streets are perched like an eagle’s eyrie, overlooking the rest, and comlmandilg, an extensive prospect. Pleasant churches meet the eye on the first le(ldge or terrace above the levee, and private residences wearing an aspect of neatness and comfort adorn each successive height.” The city is well paved, and the houses are built mostly of brick. It is lighted with gas, and contains, beside the county buildings, a number o(f churches and public schools, and several newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 7019. Galena is one of the oldest and most interesting towns in the State, but owes its importance entirely to the great lead mines by which it is stirrounded in every direction. Considerable quantities of copper are tofund in connection with the lead. It is estimated that these mines are capable of yielding 150,000,000 pounds annually for an indefinite period in the filture. Mineral from some eight or ten mining localities in AVisconsin is sent to Galena for shipment down the Mississippi, there being regular steamboat communication between Galena and the river towns. The city is connected with all points east and west by railway. The lead mines lie in every direction around the city.

The country is hilly, and has a desolate and bleak appearance. A visitor thus describes it: “Every hill is spotted with little mounds of yellow earth, and is as fulll of holes as a worm-eaten cheese. Some winding road at length brings you to the top of one of these bare, b)leal, hills, and to a larger mound of the same yellowish earth, with which the whole couintry in sight is mnottled. On the top of this mound of earth stands a windlass, and a man is winding up tubs full of dirt and rock, which continually increase the pile under his feet. Beneath him, forty, fifty, a hundred feet under ground is the miner. As we look around on every ridge, see the windlass-mien, and know that beneath each one a smithv-faced miner is burrowing by the light of a dim candle, let us descend into the mines aind see the miners at their work. The windlass-man makes a loop in the end of the rope, into which you put one (t, 885

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. foot, and, clasping, at the same time, the rope with one hand, slowly you begin to go down; down, it grows darker and darker; a damp, grave-like smell conies up from below, and you grow dizzy with the continual whirling around, until, when you reach the bottom and look up at the one small spot of daylight throughl which you came down, vou start with alarm as the great mass of rocks and earth over your head seem to be swaying and tumbling in. You draw your breath a little more freely, however, when you perceive that it was only your own dizziness, or the scudding of clouds across the one spot of visible sky, and you take courage to look about you. Two or three dark little passages, from four to six feet high, and about three feet wide, lead off into the murky recesses of the mine; these are called, in mining par lance, drifts. You listen a little whl-ile, and there is a dull’ thud! thuid!’ comes fromn each one, and tells of something alive away of-in the gloomi, and, candle in hand, you start in search of it. You eye the rocky walls and roof uneasily as, half bent, you thread the narrow passage, until, on turning some angle in the drift, you catch a glimpse of the miner, he looks small and dark, and mole-like, as on his knees, and pick in hand, he is prying from a perpendicular crevice in the rock, a lump of mineral as large as his head, and which, by the light of his dim candle, flashes and gleams like a huge carbuncle; or, perhaps, it is a horizontal sheet or vein of mineral that presents its edge to the miner; it is imbedded in the solid rockl, which must be picked and blasted down to get at the mineral. He strikes the rock with his pick, and it rings as though he had struck an anvil. You cannot conceive how, with that strip of gleaming metal, seeming like a magician’s wand, to beckon him on and on, he could gnaw, as it were, his narrow way for hundreds of feet tlhrough the rock. But large, indeed, you think, must be his organ of hope, and resolute his perseverance, to do it with no such glittering prize in sight. Yet such is often the case, and many a miner has toiled for years, and in the whole time has discovered scarcely enough mineral to pay for the powder used. Hope, however, in the breast of the nliner, has as many lives as a cat, and on no day, in all his toilsome years, could you go d(own into his dark and crooked hole, a hundred feet from grass and sunshine, but he would tell tyou that he was’close to it now,’ in a few days he hoped to strike a lode (pronounced among miners as thoughl it was spelled lee(), and so a little longer and a little longer, and his life of toil wears away, while his work holds him with a fas(‘ination eqllalle(d only by a gambler’s passion for his cards. Lodes or 1% bl 6

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ILLINOIS. veins of-mineral in the same vicinity run in the general direction. Those in the vicinity of Galena, run east and west. The crevice which contains the mineral, is usually perpendicular, and from 1 to 20
feet in width, extending from the cap rock, or the first solid rock above the mineral, to uncertain depths below, and is filled( with large, loose rocks, and a peculiar red dirt, in which are inibedded masses of mineral.

These masses are made up cubes, like those formed(i of crys tallization, and many of them as geometrically correct as could be made with a compass and square. Before the mineral is broken, it is of the dull blue color of lead, but when broken, glistens like silver. Sometimes caves are broken into, whose roofs are frosted over with calcareous spar, as pure and white as the frost upon the window-pane in winter, and from dark crevices in the floor comes utip the.gurgling of streams that never saw the sun. The life of a miner is a dark and lonesome one. His drift is narrow, and will not admit of two abreast; therefore, there is but little conversation, and no jokes are bandied about from mouth to mouth by fellow-laborers. The alternations of hope and disappointment give, inii the course of years, a subdued expression to his countenance. There are no certain indications by which the miner can determine the existence of a vein of mineral without sinking a shaft. Several methods are resorted to, however. The linear arrangement of any number of trees that are a little larger than the generality of their neighbors, is considered an indication of an opening underground corresponding to their arrangement. )epressions in the general surface are also favorable signs, and among the older miners there are yet some believers in the mystic power of witch-hazel and the divining-rod. In the largest numbelr of cases, however, but little attention is paid to signs other than to have continuous ground-that is, to dig on the skirts of a ridge that is of good width on top, so that any vein that might be discovered would not run out too quickly on the other side of the ridge.

(in such ground the usual method of search is by suckering, as it is called. The miner digs a dozen or more holes, about 6 feet deep, and within a stone’s throw of each other, and in somte one of these he is likely to find a few pieces of mineral, the dip of certain strata of clay then indicates the direction in which he is to continue the search, in which, if he is so successful as to strike a lode, his fortune is made; in the other event, he is only the more certain that the lucky day is not far offe” The city derives its name from the French word signifying a lead mine. It was settled in 1826, and was then about 300 miles from the settlements. Previous to the war it was the home of President Grant. 887

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TlHE GRIEAT REPUBLIC. ALTON. ALTON, In Madison county, is the sixth city of the State. It is situated on the left or east bank of the Mississippi River, 3 miles above the mouth of the Missouri River, 21 miles above St.

Louis, 20 miles below the mouth of the Illinois, 76 miles southwest of Springfield, and 257 miles southwest of Chicago. “The site of the city is quite uneven and broken, with high stony bluffs, and in front of it the Mississippi runs almost a due course firom east to west.” The city is one of the handsomest in the State, and is well built. It contains a splendid City Hall, 10 churches, OIne of which (the Cathedral) is a magnificent structure, 4 newspaper offices, and a number of flourishing public and private schools. Shutleff College and the JIonticello Female Seminary are located in the vicinity. The city is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 8665. Alton is one of the principal towns on the Mississippi, and is activelv engaged in the trade of that river and of the Missouri. It has direct railway communication with Chicago and Terre Haute, Indiana. It is engaged in manufactures to a considerable extent. Limestone for building purposes, bituminous coal, and clay for brick and earthen ware, are abundant in the vicinity. 8,38

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ILLINOIS. Alton was first settled about the year 1808. The first settlers were much exposed to the savages, and lived in block houses for their mutual protection. The town was laid out about the year 1818. It grew slowly until 1832, when the Penitentiary of the State was located here.

This gave a considerable impetus to Alton. The Penitentiary has since been removed to Joliet. In 1837, Alton was incorporated as a city. Since the above description of Chicago was written, that city has been visited with the most terrible and destructive fire of modern times, and has suffered the loss of its entire business quarter and a large portion of its residence section. The entire quarter lying between the lake and the north branch of the Chicago River has been destroyed, and the larger and more important part of the district lying between the lake and the south branch of the river is also in ruins. It is estimated that 2000 acres of land have been burned over, about 20,000 houses destroyed, and a loss of about $300,000,000 entailed upon the citizens. Nearly 100,000 people were rendered homeless by the conflagration, many more were deprived of their accustomed means of support, and a large number of both sexes and all conditions perished either in the flames or from the effects of the disaster. MISCELLANIES. GREAT CONFLAGRATION IN CHICAGO. The following account of the origin and progress of the fire is taken from Harper’s WVeekly: The fire had an ignoble beginning. Late on Sunday evening, October 8th, 1871, a woman went into a stable on Dekoven street, near the river, on the west side, to milk a cow, carrying with her a kerosene lamp.

This was kicked over by the cow, and the burning fluid scattered among the hay and straw. A single fireextinguisher on the premises, or the immediate application of water, would have confined the flames to the quarter where the fire began; but the engines were waited for, and when they arrived the firemen, stupefied by their exposure and exertions at a large fire the previous night, worked with less than their usual readiness and skill. The flames soon obtained headway. A high wind fanned them into fuLry, and they became uncontrollable. They sprang from house to house, and from square to square, until the district burned over the day before was reached. In the other direction the flames crossed the river north of Twelfth street to the south side, and threatened the business portion of the city. The full extent of the danger was then for the first time realized; the firemen, already worn out and exhausted, worked like heroes, and the Mayor and other officials bestirred themselves to take measures for the protection of the city. But 889

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the opportunity was lost. The time when thorough organization could have blown up buildings, or prepared for the emergency, had been allowed to pass, and it was now a fight for life. The wind blowing a stiff gale had possession of the flames, and the beautiful buildings, Chicago’s glory, lay before them. Harrison, Van Buren, Adams, Monroe, and Madison streets were soon reached, the intervening blocks from the river to Dearborn street, on the east, being consumed; and within an incredibly short space of time nearly a mile of brick blocks was consumed, as if by magic. It being Sunday evening, this part of the city was nearly deserted. Proprie tors and employes were at home, utterly unconscious of what was taking place. Those who saw the light of this fire supposed it was the remains of Saturday night’s fire, and, having confidence in the Fire Department, were unconcerned; but between 11 and 12 o’clock, a ruminor got abroad that the fire was in the busi ness portion of the city.

Then everybody was on the alert, and from the southern part of the city a stream of people poured toward the scene of the conflagration. By this time nearly all the public buildings wvere either consumed or in flames.

The air was filled with burning brands, which, carried north and east by the wind, kindled new fires wherever they fell. The fire-engines were powerless. Tile streams of water appeared to dry up the moment they touched the flames. An attempt was made to blow up the buildings; but this availed little, as the high wind carried the flaming brands far across the space thus cleared away. To add to the horrors of the scene, the wooden pavements took fire, driving the firemen from stations where their efforts mlight have been continued for many precious minutes. Nothing could long resist the terrible heat of the flames. They seemed to strike right through the most solid walls. Buildings supposed to be fire-proof burned like tinder, and crumbled to pieces like charred paper. Block after block was consumed. The red hot coal shot higher and higher, and the flames spread further and further, until that part of the city lying north of Lake street was a vast sea of fire. At one time the people were so hemnmed in by the circle of flame that thousands were in danger of perishing, and escaped only by a precipitate retreat. The hotels were hurriedly emptied of their guests, who swarmed into the streets with whatever they could carry away.. Those who could do so, made their way to the yet unburned bridges, and escaped across the river, while others fled to the lake shore, and found a safe line of retreat to the southern part of the city.

This, it must be borne in mind, was in the nighlt-time, but the city and the country and lake for miles around were illuminated with a lurid light.

When morning dawned at length, there was but one blocl-of buildings left in what the day before had been the most flourishing business part of the city. The magnificent Court House, the Board of Trade building, the Sherman House, and other hotels, and hundreds of stores and offices, were in ruins. The Tribune block alone remained unharmed. A wide space had been burned around it, and its safety was supposed to be assured. A patrol of men, under Mr. Samuel Medill, swept off live coals and put out fires in the side walls; and another patrol, under the direction of the Hon. Joseph Medill, watched the roofs. Up to 4 o’clock in the morning, writes the correspondent of the World, the reporters had sent in detailed accounts of the fire. At 5 o’clock the forms were sent down. In ten minutes the two eight-cylinders in the press-room would have been throwing off the morning paper. Then the front basement was discovered to be on fire. The plug on the corner was tapped, but there was no water. The conflagration which had for some time been raging on the north side had destroyed 890

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ILLINOIS. the Water-wvorks. There was not a drop of water in the city. The pressmen were driven from their presses. The attaches of the office said good-by to the handsomest newspaper office in the Western country, and tearfully withdrew to a place of safety. In a very short time the office was enveloped in fire, and by 10 o’clock the whole block was a mass of blackened ruins. MI’Vickar’s fine theatre, the Crosl)y Opera IHouse, which was to have been reopened lMonday evening, the office of the Pullman Car Company, the great Union Railroad Depot at the foot of Lake street, all the banks, and many of the finest churches in the city had already been destroyed. By the destruction of the Water-woroks, on the north side of the river, early in the day, the efficiency of the Fire Department was fatally impaired. It was impossible, owing to the smoke and fire, to get to the lake or river. So intense was the heat that the sluggish river seemed to boil, and clouds of steam rose from its surface to mingle with the smoke from the flames. Early in the forenoon of Monday, it became evident that nothing could save the city, and all the streets leading southward and westward from the burning quarter were crowded with men, women, and children, all flying for life, and attempting to save something from the general wreck. The number is vaguely estimated at 75,000. Every sort of vehicle was pressed into service. With the selfishness which on such occasions comes uppermost in some natures, the truckmen chlarged enormous prices for transporting trunks, boxes, and packages, and turned a deaf ear to all who could not pay the money down. Thousands of persons, inextricably commingled with horses and vehicles, poor people of all colors and shades, and of every nationality, mad with excitement, struggled with each other to get away. MIany were trampled under foot. Men and women were loaded with bundles, to whose skirts children were clinging, hlalf-dressedl and barefooted, all seeking a place of safety.

Hours afterward these people might have been seen in vacant lots, or on the streets far out in the suburbs, stretched in the dust. M[any pitiful si,lghts were witnessed in the course of this terrible scramble for life.

There were mothers and fathers, who, leaving children in places of supposed safety, had gone to save clothing and valuables from their burning houses, and returned to find their little ones swept away, and were seeking them in vain among the maddened crowd. There were men and women whom terror had made insane. Among the saddest incidents of this calamity was the appearance in the streets of hundreds of men and boys in a state of beastly drunkenness. In the North Division the liquor saloons were broken open, and their contents flung into the streets, where they were eagerly seized upon by the maddened crowd, who seem to have felt the same impulse that leads sailors on a sinking ship to drown their terrors in the delirium of intoxication. There can be hardly any doubt that many of these poor wretches found their death in the flames from which they were helpless to escape. Several hundred persons sought refuge on a barge, and were towed out into the lake, where they remained all night. The loss of life cannot yet be definitely ascertained, but will probably reach several hundred. Thus the dreadful day wore on, and night drew near. The principal business portion of the city, and the North Division, from the river to Lincoln Park, had been swept by the flames, comprising an area of more than 5 square miles. As the awful day drew to its close, thousands of anxious eyes watched the clouds of smoke that hung over the scene of desolation, dreading lest a change of wind might drive the flames upon that portion of the city which was still unburned, and fervent were the prayers for rain. S91

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. No pen can describe the horrors of the night. A hundred thousand people encamped in the fields and in Lincoln Park. The weather was tempestuous and cold. A heavy rain the day previous had drenched the turf; which tile trampling feet of the thousands of fugitives from the fire had soon beaten into a morass. And there, on the bleak prairie, shelterless and half-naked, delicate wvomen slept with their babes clasped to their breasts, or moaned in unspeakable anguish throulghout the dreadful night, longing for day and yet dreading its dawn.

What hearts were broken during that awful watch in cold, and darkness, and terror, what lives of lingering sickness and pain prepared, can never be known. It would seem as if such distress might soften the most obdurate heart; yet even there armed patrols were needed to guard the hell)less firom robbery and the baser passions of desperate ruffians, who, unlder cover of the general panic and disorganization, sought to inaugurate a new reign of terror. [louses were broken open and pillaged all over the town.

Rape, and arson, and murder were not unfriequent; and it became necessary to form vigilance committees. Fortunately General Sheridan was at his post. The city was placed under martial law, and wretchles caulght in the act of pillaging or setting fire to buildings-for, incredible as it may seem, mien became incendiaries in the midst of the burning town were executed on the spot. During the whole of the night of the 9thl, the fire continued to burn on the north side; but the wind went down, and shortly after midnighlt rain commenced falling, and by daylight the flames were under control. Freed from anxiety in regard to the further spreading of the flames, the citizens took measures for the protection of property and for the care of the thousands who were hlomeless and shelterless. The first night few could be provided with shelter, and the most harrowing scenes were witnessed on every hand. Several children were born into the world in the midst of the stoirmi, only to die. There were invalids of every age and condition of life, whlo had been taken from their b)eds and carried where death came to them less swiftly but not less surely than in the fiery flood. In response to the cry foir help that went up from the stricken city, instant and abundant relief was sent from every part of the Union. The General Government sent thousands of tents and army rations.

Societies and private citizens sent money, clothing, and provisions.

Railroad companies dispatched special trains laden with these gifts. From Canada and from Europe came expressions of sympathy and proffers of assistance. Whlerever the news was carried, it awakened the best impulses of human nature. Tile spirit and courage exhibited by the business people of Chlicago is above all praise. The smoke still hung over their ruined city, when tliey met and resolved upon measures that would restore its fame and magnificence, and maintain its credit unimpaired. The newspapers, with their accustomed enterprise, immnediately resumed publication as best they could, and generous assistance was afforded by the press of other cities, in the shape of type, paper, etc. Temporary buildings were erected in every direction, and in less than a week after the cessation of the fire, hundreds of houses were ready for occupation. The spirit of prostration gave way to one of confidence and hope. Every business man who could hire a shed resumed business. One hundred thousand dollars were subscribed toward rebuilding the Chamber of Comnmerce, and the work will be commenced at once. With this spirit animating her citizens, Chicago will soon recover from this great calamity, more magnificent and beautiful than she was before the fire. 892

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ILLINOIS. THE MASSACRE AT’ CHICAGO. On the 7th of August, 1812, in the afternoon, Winnemeg, or Catfish, a friendly Indian of the Potawatomie tribe, arrived at Chicago and broughlt despatchles fioom General Hull, containing the first, and at that time the only intelligence of the declaration of war. General Hull’s letter announced the capture of Mackinaw, and directed Captain Heald i to evacuate the tort at Chicago, if practicable, and in that event, to distribute all of the United States property contained in the fort, and the United States factory, or ageincy, amoing the Indians in the neighborhood, and repair to Fort Wayne.”

Wiiennemeg, having delivered his despatchecs to Captain Heald. and stated that hle was acquainted withl the purport of the commiunication lie had b)ro,ughlt, urged upon Cap)tain Heald tlhe policy of remaining in the fort, being supplied as they w-ere with ammunlition and provisions for a considerable time. In case, lhowvever, Captain Heald tlhought proper to evacuate the place, lie urged upon him the propriety of doing so immediately, before the Potawatomies (thllro,ughl whose country thley mutst pass, and who were as yet ignorant of thle object of his mission) could collect a force sufficient to oppose them. This advice, thloughl given in great earnestness, was not sufficiently regarded by Captain Heald; whlo observed that lie slhould evacuate the fort, but lhaving receivedl orders to distribute the public property among, the Indians, lie did not feel justified in leaving it until lie had collected the Potawatomies in its vicinity, and madcle ani equitable distribution among them. WVinnemieg then sugg,ested( the expediency of marchlling out, and leavin( everything standing;‘lwhile the Indians, said hle,‘are dividcling the spoils, the troops will be able to retreat withiout molestation.” This advice wvas also unhleeded, and an order for evacuating the foirt was read next mo rning on parade. Captain I-Heald, in issuing it, had ne,rlected to consult his junior officers, as it would have been proper foir him to have done in such an emergency, and as lie probably would have done had there not been some coolness between him and Eniisign Ronan. The lieutenant and ensign, after the promulgation of this orderi, waited on Captain Heald to learn his intentions; and being tapprised, for the first time, of the course lie intended to pursue, they remionstrated against it. ” We do not, said they to Captain Heald,’ believe that ourI troops can pass in safety thlroughl the country of the Potawatomies to Fort Wayne. Although a part of thleir chliefs were opposed to an attack upon us last autumn, they were actuated by motives of private friendship for soime particular individucltals, and not fiom a regard to the Americans in general; and it can hardly be supposed that in the presenlt excited state of feeling aimong the Indians, those chiefs will be able to influence the whole tribe. now tliIrsting for vengeance. Besides,” said they, “our lnarcli must be slow. on account of the women and children. Our force, too, is small. Some of our soldiers are superannuated, ai-d some of them are invalids. We think, tlherefore, as yotur orders are discretionary, that we had better fortify ourselves as strongly as possible, and remain lwhere we are. Succor may reach us before we shlall be attacked from Mackinaw; and, in case of such an event, we had better fall into the hands of the English than become victims of the savages.” Captain Heald replied that his force was inadequate to contend with the Indians, and that he should be censured were he to continue in garrison when tle prospect of a safe retreat to Fort Wayne was so apparent. He therefore deemed it advisable to asseml)le the Ind(lians and distribute the public property among them, and ask of tlhem an escort thither, witli the promise of a considerable suml of money to be a id on their safe arival adding, tlha d pefect cnfidence in te fiendl 893

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. professions of the Indians, from whlom, as well as friom the soldiers, the capture of Mackinavw liad studiously been concealed. FromiI this timie foIrward, the junior officers stood aloof from their commander, and, considering his project as little short of madness, conversed as little up)on the subject as possible.

Dissatisfaction, however, soon filled the camp; the sol diers began to muinrmur, and insubordination assumed a thireatenling, aspect. The savages, ill tile meanlitime, lbecame more tanid more troiublesome; entered the fort occasionally ill dlefianlce of the senitinels, and even made tleir way Mwitli out ceremi ony into the quarters of its commllanding officer. Oil one occasion, anll Ind(lian, taking uip a rille, fired it in the parlor of Captain HIeald. Some were of opinion that this was initendled as the signal for an attack. The old chiiefs at thlis time passed back and forthi among the assembled groups, apparently agitated, and the squaws seemiled much excited, as though some terrible calamllity was ii pending. No further malnifestations, however, of ill-feeling were exhibited, and thle (lay passed withlout bloodshed. So infatuated at this limie was Captain Ileald that lie supposed hle had wroug’llt a favorable impression up)Onl the savages, and that the little garrison could now marchl forthl in safety. From the 8thl to the 12thl of August, the hostility of the Indians was more alnd more apparent; and the feelings of the garrison, and of those connected with and dependent upon it for their safety, more and more intense. Distrust everv lwherle at leiigthl prevailed, and the want of unanimity among, the officers was ap palling.

Every inmate retired to rest, expectiing to be arioused by the war-whloop; and each returning dlay was regarded by all as anotlher step onI the road to massacre. The Indians from the adjacent villag,es having at length arrived, a council was held on thle 12thl of August. It was attended, hlowever, only by Captain Ileald on thle part of the military; the other officers refused to attendl, hlaving previously learned that a massacre was intended. This fact was communicated to Captain JIealdc; lie insisted, however, on their going, and they resolutely persisted in their refusal.

AWTliel Captain Hleald left the fort, they repaired to the blockhouse, which overlooked the ground whllere the council was in session, and, opening the portholes, pointed their cannon in its direction. This circumstance and their absence, it is supposed, saved the whlites fi’om massacre. Captain Heald informed the Indians in Council that lie would next dclay distribute among them all the goods in the United States factory, togethler with the ammunition and provisions with which the garrison was supplied; and desired of them anll escort to Fort Wayne, promising them a reward on their arrival thlithler, in addition to the presents they were about to receive. The savages assenteld wvithl professions of friendship to all hle proposed, and promised all lie required. The council was no sooner dismissed, than several, observing the tone of feeling whIichl prevailed, and anlticipating from it no good to the garrison, waited on Captain Hleald, in order to open his eyes, if possible, to their condition. The imipolicyr of furnishing7 the Indians with arms and ammunition, to be used against themselves, struck Captain IHeald withl so much force that lie resolved, without consullting his officers, to destroy all not required for immediate use. On Aug,ust 13th, the goods in the factory store were distributed among the Indians who 4ad collected near the fort; and in the evening the ammunition, and also the liquor belonging to the garrison, were carried, the former into the sallyport and thrown into the well, and the latter tlhrough the south gate, as silently as possible, to the river bank, where the heads of the barrels were knocked in and their contents discharged into the stream. 894

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ILLINOIS. The Indians, however, suspecting the game, approached as near as possible and witnessed the whole scene. The spare muskets were broken up and thrown into the well, together with bags of shot, flints, and gun screws, and other things; all, however, of but little value. On the 14th, the despondency of the garrison was for a while dispelled by the arrival of Captain Wells and 15 friendly Miamis. Having heard at Fort Wayne of the order to evacuate Chlicago, and knowing the hostile intentions of the Potawatomies, lie hastened thither, in order to save, if possible, the little garrison from its doom. Having on his arrival learned that the ammunition had been destroyed, and the provisions distributed among the Indians, hlie saw there was no alternative. Preparations were therefore made for marching on the morrow. In the afternoon, a second council was held with the Indians, at which they expressed their resentment at the destruction of the ammunition and liquor in the severest terms.

Notwithstanding the precautions which had been observed, the knocking in of the heads of the whiskey barrels had been heard by the Indians, and the river next morning tasted, as some of them expressed it, “like strong grog.” Miurmurs and threats were everywhere heard, and nothing apparently waas wanting but an opportunity for some public manifestation of their resentment. The morning of the 15th dawned as usual. The sun rose with uncommon splendor, and Lake Michigan “was a sheet of burnished gold.”

Early in the day, a message was received in the American camp from To-peena-bee, a chief of the St. Joseph’s band, informing them that mischief was brewing among the Potawatomies, who had promised them protection. About 9 o’clock, the troops left the fort with martial music and in military array. Captain W7ells, at the head of the Miamis, led the van, his face blackened after the manner of the Indclians. The garrison with loaded arms followed, and the wagons with the baggage, the women and children, the sick and the lame, closed the rear. The Potawatomies, about 500 in number, who had promised to escort them in safety to Fort Wayne, leaving a little space, afterward followed. The party in advance took the beach road. They had no sooner arrived at the sandlills, which separate the prairies from the beach, about a mile and a half firom the fort, when the Potawatomies, instead of continuing in the rear of the Americans, left the beach and took to the prairie. The sandhills, of course, intervened, and presented a barrier between the Potawatomies and the American and Miami line of march. This divergence had scarcely been effected when Captain Wells, who, with the Miamis, was considerably in advance, rode back and exclaimed: “They are about to attack us; form instantly and charge upon them.”” The words had scarcely been uttered before a volley of’nusketry from behind the sandhills was poured in upon them. Thile troops were brought immediately into a line, and charged up the bank. One man, a veteran of seventy, fell as they ascended. The battle at once became general. The Miamis fled in the outset; their chief rode up to the Potawatomies, charged them with duplicity, and, brandishing his tomahawk, said, “he would be the first to head a party of Americans, and return to punish them for their treachery.” He then turned his horse and galloped off in pursuit of his companions, who were then scouring across the prairie, and nothing was seen or heard of them more. The American troops behaved gallantly. Though few in number, they sold their lives as dearly as possible. They felt, however, as if their time had come, and sought to forget all that was dear on earth. While the battle was raging, the surgeon, Doctor Voorhes, who was badly 895

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. wounded, and whose horse had been shot from under him, approaching Mrs. Helmi, the wife of Lieutenant Helml (who was in the action, participating in al} its vicissitudes), observed ” Do you think,”

said hle, “they will take our lives? I am badly wounded, but I think not mortally. Perhaps we can purchase safety by offering a large reward. Do you think,” continued lie, “there is any chance?” -“‘Doctor Voorhles,”

replied Mrs. Helm, “let us not waste thle few moments which yet remain, in idle or ill-founded hopes. Our fate is inevitable. We must soon appear at the bar of God. Let us make such preparations as are yet in our power.”-“

Oh,” said hle, “I cannot die! I am unfit to die! If I had a short time to prepare!-Deathl!-oloh, how awful!I” At this moment Ensign Ronan was fighlting at a little distance withl a tall and portly Indian; thle former, mortally wounded, was nearly down, and struggling desperately on one knee. Mrs. Helm, pointing her finger and directing the attention of Doctor Voorhles thither, observed: “Look,” said she, ” at that young man, hle dies like a soldier.” “Yes,” said Doctor Voorhes, “but he has no terrors of the future; he is an unbeliever.” A young savage immediately raised his tomahawk to strike Mrs. Helm. She sprang instantly aside, and the blow intended for her head fell upon her shoulder. Shle thereupon seized him aroutnd his neck, and while exerting all her efforts to get possession of his scalping-knlife, was seized by another Indian, and dragged forcibly from his grasp. The latter bore her, struggling and resisting, toward the lake. Notwithlstanding, however, the rapidity with which she was hurried along, she recognized, as she passed, the remains of the unfortunate surgeon, stretched lifeless on the prairie. She was plungedl immediately into the water and held there, notwithstanding her resistance, with a forcible hand. She shortly, however, perceived that the intention of her captor was not to drown her, as he held her in a position to keep her head above the water. Thus reassured, she looked at him attentively, and, in spite of his disguise, recognized the “white man’s friend.” It was Black Partridge. AVWhen the firing had ceased, her preserver bore her firom the water and conductedl her up the sand-bank. It was a beautiful day in August. The hleat, however, of the sun was oppressive, and wvalkling through the sand exposed to its burning rays in her drenched condition, weary and exhausted by efforts l)eyond her strengthl, anxious beyond measure to learn the fate of her friends, and alarmed for her own, her situation was one of agony. The troops hlaving foughlt with desperation till twothirds of their number were slain, the remainder, 27 in all, borne down by an overwlelming force and exhausted by efforts hitherto unequalled(l, at lengthl surrendered. They stipulated, however, for their own safety and for the safety of their remaining women and children. The wounded prisoners, however, in the hurry of the moment, were unfortunately omitted, or rather not particularly mentioned, and were therefore regarded by the Indians as having been excluded. One of the soldiers’ wives, having frequently been told that prisoners taken by the Indians were subjected to tortures worse than death, had from the first expressed a resolution never to be taken, and when a party of savages approached to make her their prisoner, she fought with desperation, and though assured of kind treatment and protection, refused to surrender, and was literally cut in pieces, and her mangled remains left on the field.

After the surrender, one of the baggage-wagons, containiing 12 children, was 896

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ILLINOIS. assailed by a single savage, and the whole number were massacred. All, without distinction of age or sex, fell at once beneath his murderous tomahawk. Captain Wells, who had as yet escaped unharmed, saw from a distance the whole of this murderous scene, and being apprised of the stipulation, and on seeing it thus violated, exclaimed aloud, so as to be heard by the Potawatomies around him, whose prisoner he then was: “If this be your game, I will kill too!” and, turning his horse’s head, instantly started for the Potawatomie camp, where the squaws and Indian children had been left ere the battle began. I-e had no sooner started than several Indians followed in his rear, and dischlarged their rifles at him as he galloped across the prairie. He laid himself flat on the neck of his horse, and was apparently out of their reach when the ball of one of his pursuers took effect, killing his horse and wounding him severely. He was again a prisoner. As the savages came up, Winnemeg and Wa-ban-see, two of their number and both his friends, used all their endeavors in order to save him; they had disengaged him already from his horse, and were supporting him along, when Pee-so-tum, a Potawatomie Indian, drawing a scalping-knife, stabbed him in the back, and thus inflicted a mortal wounld. After struggling for a moment, hlie fell, and breathed his last in the arms of his friends-a victim for those he had sought to save-a sacrifice to his own rash, presumptuous, and perhaps indiscreet intentions. The battle having ended, and the prisoners being secured, the latter were conconducted to the Potawatomie camp near the fort. Here the wife of Wau-beenee-mah, an Illinois chief, perceiving the exhausted condition of Mrs. Helm, took a kettle, and dipping up some water from the stream which flowed sluggishly by them, threw into it some maple sugar, and stirring it up with her hand, gave her to drink. ” It was,” says Mrs.

Helm, “the most delicious draught I had ever taken, and her kindness of manner amid so much atrocity touched my heart.” Her attention, however, was soon directed to other objects. The fort, after the troops had marched out, became a scene of plunder. The cattle were shot down as they ran at large, and lay dead, or were dying around her. It called up afresh a remark of Ensign Ronan’s, made before: ” Such,” said he, “is to be our fate-to be shot down like brutes.” The wounded prisoners, we have already remarked, were not included in the stipulation made on the battle field, as the Indians understood it. On reaching, therefore, the Potawatomie camp, a scene followed which beggars description. A wounded soldier lying on the ground was violently assaulted by an old squaw, infuriated by the loss of friends, or excited by the murderous scenes around herwho, seizing a pitchfork, attacked with demoniac ferocity and deliberately mnurdered in cold blood the wretched victim, now helpless and exposed to the burnimg rays of the sun, his wounds already aggravated by its heat, and he writhing in torture. During the succeeding night 5 other wounded prisoners were tomahawked. Those unwounded remained in the wigwams of their captors.

The work of plunder being now completed, the fort next day was set on fire. A fair and equal distribution of all the finery belonging to the garrison had apparently been made, and shawls, ribbons, and feathers were scattered about the camp in great profusion. Most of the prisoners remained among the Indians until the treaty made in the next year, when they were returned to their friends. Captain Heald and his wife, and Lieutenant Helm and his wife, were ransomed soonl after their capture.

Their sufferings and perils, however, during their short captivity were most trying. 57 897

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MIaCHIGAN. Area…………. 56,451 Square Miles. Population in 1860),………749,113 Population in 1870………1,184,059 THE State of Michigan is situated between 41~ 40’ and 47~ 30’ N. latitude, and 82~ 12’

and 90~ 30’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Canada and Lake Superior, on the east by the River Ste. Marie, Lake Huron, the Lake and River St. Clair, the Detroit River, and Lake Erie, which separate it from Canada, on the south bv Ohio, Indiana, and Wisconsin, and on the west by Wisconsin and Lake Michigan. TOPOGRAPHY. Lakes Michigan and Huron, and the Straits of Mackinaw, divide the State into two unequal peninsulas. The Northern Peninsula is about 320 miles long, from southeast to northwest, with an extreme width of 130 miles. The Southern Peninsula is about 283
miles long, from north to south, and 210 miles wide in its broadest part.

“The Southern Peninsula of Michigan, so interesting in its agricultural and economical aspects, is rather tame in its topographical features, as there is no considerable elevation (compared with the country immediately around it) within its whole extent, though the ridge which divides the waters flowing into Lakes Huron and Erie from those flowing into Lake Michigan, is 300 feet above the level of the lakes, and about 1000 feet above the sea. The country, however, may be generally characterized as a vast undulating plain, seldom becoming rough or broken. There are occasional conical elevations of from 150 to 200 feet in height, but generally much less. The 898

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MICHIGAN. shores of Lake Huron are often steep, forming bluffs; while those of Lake Michigan are coasted by shifting sandhills of from 100 to 200 feet in height. In the southern part are those natural parks, thinly scattered over with trees, called in the parlance of the country,’ oak openings;’ and in the southwest are rich prairie lands. The Northern Peninsula exhibits a striking contrast, both in soil and surface, to the southern. While the latter is level or moderately undulating, and luxuriantly fertile, the former is picturesque, rugged, and even nmountainous, with streams abounding in rapids and waterfalls-rich in minerals, but rigorous in climate, and sterile in soil. The Wisconsin or Porcupine Mountains, which form the watershed between Lakles MIichligan and Superior, are mtuh nearer the latter than the former, and attain an elevation of about 2000 feet in the northwestern portion of the peninsula.

The eastern part of this division of the State is undulating and picturesque, but the central is hilly, and composed of tableland. The shores of Lake Superior are composed of a sandstone rock, whlich, in many places, is worn by the action of the wind and waves into fancied resemblances of castles, etc., forming the celebrated A WESTERN RIVER. 899

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Pictured Rocks; while the shores of Lake Michigan are composed of a limestone rock. The streams on the northern slope of the Porcu pine Mountains have a rapid descent, and abound in picturesque falls and rapids. The Northern Peninsula is primnitive, and the Southern secondary; but primitive rocks are scattered over the plains of the latter, of more than 100 tons weight, most abundant on the borders of the Great Lakes, onIL the flanks of valleys, and where traces of recent floods are apparent.” * Lake Superior washes the northern shore of the State, Lake Michigan the western, and Lakes Huron and Erie the eastern. They have all been described, together with the channels connecting them, in the chapter devoted to the United States. Detroit, between Lakes Erie and St.

Clair, and Grand Haven on Lake Michigan, are the principal ports of the State. The principal bays are Saginaw and Thunder bays on Lake Hulron, Tequamenon and Kewechaw bays on Lake Superior, and Green, Little and Grand Traverse bays, and the Great and Little Bays des Noquets on Lake Michigan.

A number of small lakes lie in the State. They possess no coinmercial value, but form a beautiful feature of the landscape. The rivers of the State are nearly all small. The Detroit and Ste. Marie have been noticed.

Those of the southern peninsula empty into Lakes Michigan, Huron and Erie.

Those flowing into Lake Michigan are the St. Joseph’s, Kalamazoo, Grand, Maskegon and Manistee. The Au Sable and Saginaw flow into Lake Huron, the latter through Saginaw Bay, and the Huron and Raisin into Lake Erie. The rivers of the northern peninsula are fine mill streams, but are unfit for navigation by reason of rocks and rapids. The principal are the Menomonee, Montreal, and Ontonagon. The first flows into Green Bay, and the others into Lake Superior. A group of Islands, forming Manitou county, lies in the northern part of Lake Michigan. MINERALS. “The upper peninsula, rich in minerals, prominent among which is copper, is mostly of primitive geological character; the lower exclusively secondary. The copper deposits among the primary rocks of the northern peninsula are the richest in the world, the copper belt * Lippincott’s Gazetteer, p. 1189. 900

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MICHIGAN. being 120 miles long and from 2 to 6 miles wide. A block of several tons of almost pure copper, taken from the mouth of Ontonagon River, has been built into the wall of the Washington monument at the national capital. A mass weighing 150 tons was uncovered, in 1854, in the North American mine. Isle Royale abounds in this mineral; one house in that district, during five and a half months of 1854, shipped over 2,000,000 of pounds, and in the nine years previous there were produced 4824 tons. The yield of copper in the State has risen to an annual average of 8000 tons, with promise of steady increase. The opening of the St.

Mary’s Canal and the clearing of the entrance into Portage Lake have given fresh impetus to this branch of mining industry, which is becoming one of the most cherished interests of the State. Silver has been found in connection with the copper in the proportion of from 25 to 50 per cent. of the precious metal. Iron of a superior quality has been discovered in a bed of slate from 6 to 25 miles wide, and 150 long, extending into Wisconsin. In the production of this mineral, in 1863, Michigan was only second to Pennsylvania, having produced 273,000 tons of ore. Bituminous coal is mined on an enlarging scale to meet the demand of manufactures.

Salt also exists in quantities repaying the investment of capital. The high prices lately prevailing have caused a rapid development of the salt fields around Saginaw, a basin some 40 or 50 miles square, in which, by boring some 800 feet, an inexhaustible supply of brine is obtained, yielding 80 or 90 per cent. of salt.” * CLIMATE. The climate of the State is less severe than that of other portions of the country in the same latitude, being greatly tempered by the lake breezes. SOIL AND

PRODUCTIONS. The soil ill the middle and lower part of the southern peninsula is very rich, and yields handsome returns. It consists generally of a deep, dark, rich sandy loam, which is frequently mixed with gravel and clay. The northern part abounds in excellent timber. The northern peninsula is heavily wooded with white I)ine, spruce, hemlock, birch, and oak. The hardier grains do well in this part of the State, but maize is not suited to it. * General Land Office Report. 901

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1869, there were upwards of 4,000,000 acres of improved land ill the State. In the same year the principal agricultural returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,…. ” Indian cornl,. “
oats…… ” Irish potatoes,. rye…… peas and beans,. ” buckwheat,.. “
barley,…. Tons of hay……. Pounds of butter,…. ” cheese,…. Numher of horses,… ” asses and mules,. milch cows,. sheep,…. swine,. young cattle,.. Yalue of domestic animals,. Pounds of wool (estimated), COMMERCE

AND MANUFACTURES. Wheat, and other grains, flour, pork, lumber, copper, and wool, are the principal exports of the State. Michigan is admirably located for commnerce, having many good harbors, and an immense water front. In 1863, the foreign exports of the State were valued at $2,008,599, and the imports at $771,834. Manufactures are yet in their infancy. In 1860, there were in this State 3448 establishments devoted to manufactures, mining, and the mechanic arts. They employed a capital of $23,808,226, consumed raw material worth $17,635,611, and yielding an annual product of $32,658,356. The principal products were valued as follows: Pig-iron,………………… $291,400

Copper…………….$2,292,186 Sawed and planed lumber,…………

$7,033,427 Flour………………..$8,663,288 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, there were 966 miles of completed railroads in Michigan, constructed at a cost of $41,676,000. The only railroad in the northern peninsula is from the upper end of Green Bay to the iron region. In 902 16,800,000

14,100,000 8,700,000 7,500,000 630,000 965,128 850,000 650,000 1,550,000

15,503,482 1,641,897 201,340 660 198,580 1,340,820 640,960 401,320

,‘09,714,771 4,000,000

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MICHIGAN. the lower peninsula the railroads lie south of Saginaw Bay, beyond which the State is comparatively unsettled. The principal towns of the State have railroad communication with each other and with all parts of the Union. EDUCATION. There are seven colleges in Michigan, the principal of which is the U;itiversity of Jlichigan, which is located at Ann Arbor, in the southeast part of the State. It embraces departments of literature, law, and medicine, and, in 1867, was attended by 1255
students. The State hias a Normal School at Ypsilanti. It was opened in 1854, and is in a prosperous condition. The system of public education is under the general supervision of a State Superintendent of Public Instruction, who is elected by the people for two years. Each county is in charge of a County Superintendent, who manages the schools thereof. In IS1870, there were 5110 public schools in Michigan, attended by 278,686
children. The amount expended on these schools during the year was $2,783,943. The State has three distinct school fiunds (the Primary School, University, and Normal School Funds), amounting in the aggregate to $2,925,644. In 1867, there were 257 private schools in the State, attended by 10,703 pupils. In 1860, there were 1120 libraries in the State, with 250,686 vollumes. In the same year, there were 8 daily, 3
semiweekly, 1 triweekly, 103 weekly, and 3 monthly newspapers and periodicals published in the State, making a total of 118. Of these, 111
were political, 4 religious, and 3 literary. Their total annual circulation was 11,606,596 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The lIichigan?

State Pr-ison is located at Jackson. It is provided with ample buildings, and in November, 1870, contained 663 convicts. The prisoners are required to labor, and the institution is self-supporting. The Refo)-m School, at Lansing, was opened in 1856, and contains about 262 boys. The Jlichiga)1

Insane Asylum is located at Kalamazoo. It was opened in 1859. On the 1st of January, 1870, it contained 305 inmates-156 males and 149 females. 903

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Asylum for the Edlucation of the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind is at Flint. It was opened in 1854, and, in 1870, contained 120 deaf mnutes, and 30 blind persons. State prisoners are sent to the Detroit House of Correction (a city institution) for crimes punishable with imprisonment in the county jails. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 807 churches in Michigan. The value of church property was $2,333,040. FINANCES. On tile 30th of November, 1870, the State debt amounted to $2,385,028. The total receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending on that date, including a balance of $834,089 on hand from the previous year, amounted to $2,552,613, and the total expenditures for the same period to $2,094,305. In 1868 there were 42 National banks, with a capital of $5,210,010, doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. All citizens of the United States over 21 years of age, who have resided in the State six months, and all male foreigners who have resided in the State two years, and have declared their intention to become citizens six months before the elections, are entitled to vote at the elections in this State. All civilized Indians residing in the State, not belonging to any tribe, are also entitled to vote. The government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor-Genera], and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature consisting of a Senlate (of 32
members) and a House of Representatives (of 100 members), all elected by the people for 2 years. The Legislature meets biennially, on the first Wednesday in January. The general election is held in November. The Courts of the State are the Supreme Court, Circuit Courts, Probate Courts, and Courts held by Justices of the Peace. The Stipremne Court consists of four judges, elected for 8 years, onie judge retiring every 2 years. All judges in this State are elected by the people. The seat of Government is located at Lansing. The State is divided into 62 counties. 904

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MICHIGAN. HISTORY. M,ichigan was first settled by the French. It derives its name fromf an Indian word (Michii-sawg-ye-gan), meaning “the Lake Country.” In 1630 the French missionaries established a station on Lake Htiron, and in 1660 founded one on Lake Superior. In 1668 a mission was established at the Sault-Ste.-Marie, and in 1671 Father Marquette f()unded the mission of St. Ignatius on the mnain land, to the north of the island of Mackinaw. These missionaries were so successfill in their efforts that nearly all the Hurons were converted to Christianity. Soon after this became known to the other tribes, the converts were attacked, and massacred or dispersed by the Iroquois. In 1667 the trading posts were garrisoned by French soldiers by order of the king of France, who wished to foster the filr trade. In 1701 Detroit was founded by a colony from Montreal. A fort was erected and garrisoned for the protection of the settlement, and a flourishing trade opened with the western Indians. The settlements languished, however. The home Government did but little to encourage them, and the Iroquois were their constant enemies. In 1763 the whole country passed, with Canada, into the hands of the British. Pontiac, one of the leading chiefs, now induced the tribes to take concerted measures for the expulsion of the whites. Simultaneous attacks were made upon the English forts. Mackinaw was taken by stratagem, and all the western posts were captured and destroyed. Detroit was invested and besieged for several months. It held out bravely, however, and the majority of the Indians, becoming tired of the siege, returned to their homes. Thus deserted by his allies, Pontiac was forced to abandon the struggle. In 1783 Michigan, as a part of the Northwest Territory, became the property of the United States. The British, however, appreciating the importance of Detroit, held on to it for a mudh longer time, and did not finally surrender it to the Americans until 1796. In 1805 the territory of Michigan was organized, and General Williami Hull, an officer who had served gallantly through the Revolution, was appointed Governor. Detroit was made the seat of government. The Territory was sparsely settled, but suffered much during the second war with England. The fortress of Mackinaw was surrendered to the British and Indians on the 17th of July, 1812. On the 15th of August, General Hull surrendered Detroit to General Brock, 905

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. without making the least effort to defend it. In January, 1813, General Winchester was surprised and surrounde(l at Freneclltown on the River Raisin, by a strong force of British troops and Indians. He made a stubborn defence, but finally surrendered upon the condi tionl that his men should be protected from the Indians. (General Proctor violated his word, however, and suffered his Indian allies to massacre Americans, the wounded and many of the disarmne(l prisoners. In September, 1813, the gloom which the reverses of the Americans had east over the frontier was lightened by the splendi(l victory won over tile British fleet in Lake Erie, only a few miles from the shores of MAichligan, by Commodore 0. H. Perry. This was followed by the evacuation of Detroit by the British, and the important triumph achieved by the American army tinder General Harrison, over the British and Indians, on the banks of the River Thames, in Canada, and but a few miles distant from Detroit. Tecumseh was killed in this battle. Several other minor actions occurred along the Michigan firontier, but the Territory was not again occupied by the enemy. In 1820 the population of the Territory was 8900
souls, and in this estimate the dwellers in the present State of W’isconsin were included. “About the year 1832, the tide of emigration began to set strong towards Michigan Territory. Steamboat navigation had opened a new commerce upon the lakes, and had connected the eastern lakes and their population with the Illinois and Upper Mississippi. This immenese lake navigation encircled the peninsula of Michigan. It became an object of exploration. Its unrivalled advantages for navigation, its immense tracts of the most fertile arable lands, adapted to the cultivation of all the northern grains and grasses, attracted the attention of western emigrants. The tide soon began to set strong into Michigan. Its fine level and rolling plains, its deep and enduring soil, and its immense advantages for trade and coimmerice had become known and duly appreciated. The hundreds of canoes, pirogues, and barges, with their half-civilized couriers du bois, vwhich had annually visited Detroit for more than a century, had given way to large and splendid steamboats, which daily traversed the lakes from Buffalo to Chicago, from the east end of Lake Erie to the south-w-esternl extremity of LaLe Michigan. Nearly a hundred sail of sloops and schooners were now traversing every part of these inland se(Is. Under these circumstances, how should Michigan remain a savage wilderness? .New York State and the New England States began to send forth their 906

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MICHIGAN. numerous colonies, and the wilderness to smile. At the end of two years more, or ill 1834, the population of Michigan had increased to 87,273 souls, exclusive of Indians. The following year the number amounted to more than 90,000 persons, distributed over 38 counties, comprised in the southern half. of the peninsula, and the’attached Huron, or Wisconsin District,’ lying west of Lake Michiglan. The towni of Detroit, which in 1812 was a stockade village, had now become’a city,’ with nearly 2500
inhabitants. The humble villages and wig,wams of the Indians, sparsely distributed over a wide extent of wilderness, had now given way to thousands of fanrms and civilized habitations. Towns and smiling villages usurped the encampment and the battlefield. The fertile banks of the’River Raisin’ were crowned with hamlets and towns instead of the melancholy stockade. A constitution had been adopted on the 15th of June, 1836, and the ‘State of Mi-higan’ was admitted into the Union on the 26th day of January, 1837, and Stephens T. Mason was made the first Governor.”

During the late war Michigan contributed 90,119 troops to the service of tile United States. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of the State are, Detroit, Grand Rapids, Adrian, Kalamazoo, Ann Arbor, Jackson and Monroe. LANSING, The capital of the State, is situated in Ingham county, on the Grand River, 110 miles northwest of Detroit. Latitude 42~ 42’ 30” N.; longitude 84~ 28’ W. The city was originally laid out upon quite an extensive plan, and is not yet built with sufficient compactness to do justice to the designs of its founders. The streets are broad, intersect each other at rightangles, and are shaded with trees. The principal building is the State Httouse, a large and handsome structure, located on an eminence, 50 feet above the level of the river. The State Agricultu)ral College is located in the vicinity, and the House of Correction, for juvenile offenders, stands in the eastern portion of the city. Lansing contains a female college, 2 good public schools, 2 newspaper offices, and 12 churches. In 1870, the population was The city has railway communication with all parts of the State. The river affords excellent waterpower, which is used for operating several flour mills and factories 907

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1847, a Mr. James Seymour, owning some land on the Grand River, made a proposition to the Legislature of Michigan, that if they would remove the seat of Government on to his lands, he would give 20
acres, and erect the capitol and buildings for the use of the State authorities. This offer was not accepted, but the Legislature passed a bill locating the capital in the township. At this period but one family occupied the site of the future capital. In May, 1847, the town of Lansing was laid out, and within the next few weeks one thousand persons moved into the place, which was named from Lansing in New York, the former home of some of the settlers. In 1850, the seat of Government was formally transferred from Detroit to this’ place. DETrROIT, The metropolis of the State, is situated on the right or northwest bank of the Detroit River, 18
miles from the head of Lake Erie, 8 miles firom the outlet of Lake St.

Clair, and 110 miles by railway from Lansing. The width of the river averages about five-eighths of a mile, the width from the docks of Detroit to the opposite docks of Windsor, in Canada, being about half a mile. The depth between the docks varies from 12 to 48 feet, averaging 32 feet; the descent from Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie is about 6 feet, averaging 3
inches per mile; and the velocity of the current in the deepest part opposite the city is two miles and a half per hour. The stream is so deep and its current so strong and uniform, that it keeps itself clear, and its navigation is not affected as is that of the Mississippi, with either rocks, sand-bars, trees, or sawyers. Its current also carries along the ice with a slow and uniform motion, so that it is never dammed up in winter, while the St. Lawrence, at Montreal, is shallow, full of rocks, against which the ice lodges, and often forms a dam across the river, and raises the water from 20 to 25 feet, overflowing its low banks for miles, and sweeping off and destroying large amounts of property. These peculiarities make Detroit a secure and accessible harbor in all seasons.

Bordering the river, along which it extends for several miles, and for 1200 feet back from the water, the plan of the city is rectangular. In the rear of this portion it is triangular. The city covers an area o)f about 10 square miles, and is for the most part well built. The streets and avenues are wide, many of them from 100 to 200 feet. Five of these centre at a public ground, called the Grand Circus. In the city are several public squares or spaces, the principal of which 908

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MICHIGAN. I. _ ;, Or ~~~~~~~=  -i i WOODWARD AVENUE, DETROIT. are the Grand Circus and the Campus Martius. The streets are generally well paved, with broad side walks, and are shaded with noble forest trees. Jefferson and Woodward avenues, and Congress street are the most important thoroughfares. Lines of street cars connect the principal points of the city. A large portion of the city is built of wood, but of late years, brick, stone, and iron have been largely used in erecting new edifices and in improving ol(1 ones. In consequence of this, the business streets now present a handsome appearance, and in the private sections are to be found many elegant and tasteful residences. The principal buildings are the Custom House, a ifmagnificent stone edifice; the City Hall, a fine structure of brick; and the Old State House, now used for literary purposes. The city contains about 66 public schools, each of which is provided with handsome and convenient buildings. The citizens are very proud of their free school system, and with good reason. The benevolent and charitable institutions are numerous, and are well conducted. The principal establishments are the Industr ial School, the Harper, St.

Mariy’s, and -farine Hospittals, the Orphai, Asylum, and the House for the Friendless. In the Industrial School, 909

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. the ragged and vagrant children of the city are gathered and taught to read, write, and sing, to mend and make their clothing, and are given a good meal every day. The city contains about 38
churches, some of which are among its principal ornaments, 11 newspaper, and 3 magazine offices, and 3 first class hotels. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with )pure water, which is pumped from the Detroit River by means of a steam engine into a hydraulic reservoir, from which it is supplied to the city pipes. The city is provided with an efficient police force and a steam fire de partment, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 75,580. The admirable position of Detroit has made it an important com mercial point. It controls a large share of the commnerce between the United States and Canada, but its chief source of prosperity is the lake trade. Commanding the only outlet of the three uipper lakes, it of necessity controls a large share of their commerce, and also conducts a large trade with the ports of Lake Erie. It is largely interested in the rich trade which the working of the copper and iron mines of Lake Superior has developed. Regular lines of steamers ply between the citv and the ports on the lakes. Detroit has direct railway communication with all parts of the Union, and the terminus of the Great Western Railway of Canada is at Wind(lsor, on the opposite side of the river. The grain trade of Detroit is important, and is increasing every year. The city is extensively engaged in manufactures. The most important articles produced are locomotives, iron machinery, window sashes and blinds, cabinet ware, leather, malt liquors, iron and brass ware, and lumber. The Detroit Copper Smelting Works annually smelt over $2,000,000
worth of copper ore into ingot copper. Another large establishment is engaged in manufacturing iron from the iron ore sent from the Lake Superior mines. In 1670, the French built a fort on the present site of Detroit. The vicinity at this time was occupied by villages of the Huron, Potawatomy, and Ottowa Indians. Ninety years later, in 1760, the French posts passed into the hands of Great Britain. In 1783, after the close of the Revolution, Detroit became a part of the United States, but was not formally delivered up to the American forces until 1796. By this time a straggling town had sprung up around the fort; the inhabitants of which were principally French Canadians. On the 11th of June, 1805, this town was entirely destroyed by fire; 910

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MICIIIGAN. but, undismayed by this reverse, the inhabitants at once set to work to rebuild it. The Territory of Michigan had been organized in the ealier part of the same year, and the Governor, General William Hull, caused the town to be laid out upon a new plan, which is substantially that of the present city. On the 15th of August, 1812, the town iand fort were surrendered by General Hull to the British. They held it until the 29th of September of the same year, when they evacuated it and retired into Canada. Upon the admission of Michig’lln into the Union as a State, Detroit became the capital (in 1836), and remained the seat of Government until 1850, when Lansing became the capital. GRAND RAPIDS, The second city of the State, is situated in K(ent county, on both sides of the Grand River, at the Rapids of that stream, 40 miles from its mouth, 60) miles west-northwest of Lansing, and 150 miles northwest of Detroit. It is well built, and is prominent among the northwestern cities for the improvement it is making in the style of its architecture. The streets are wide, and are generally well paved. The city contains 12 churches, several pul)lic and private schools, and 6 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with water. The Government consists of a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 16,507. The Grand River here is 900 feet in width, and falls 18 feet in the course of a mile, producing ample waterpower, which is employed in turning a number of flouring and saw mills, and iron founderies. The city does an immense business in lumber, lime, gypsum, and building stone, which are found in large quantities in the vicinity. Salt springs of unusual strength exist in the immediate neighborhood. The water is much stronger than that of the Syracuse wells in New York, requiring but 29 gallons to produce a bushel of salt. The manufacture of this article is rapidly increasing in importance. A large portion of the yearly product finds a market in Chicago. Grand Rapids is the great seat of the lumber trade of Western Michigan. The country watered by the Grand River is one of the richest timber regions in the world, and is steadily adding to the wealth of the State. There is railway communication between Grand Rapids and all parts of the Union. Large steamers ply between the city and Grand Haven, at the mouth of the river, where they connect with the lake steamers; and small steamers ascend the stream to Lyons, about 50 miles above the Rapids. 911

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Grand Rapids is one of the healthiest cities, in the State. It was settled in 1833, laid out as a village in 1836, and incorporated as a city in 1850. ADRIAN, In Lenawee county, is the third city of the State. It is situated on a branch of the Raisin River, 80
miles southeast of Lansing, and 70 miles westsouthwest of Detroit. The city is regularly laid out, and is well built. It contains several fine public buildings, 10 clurches, several public and private schools, and 2
newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and supplied with water, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 8438. Adrian lies in the ceniltre of a rich farming region, of which it is the principal market. The river furnishes admirable waterpower, which is used by a number of manufacturing establishments. The city is connected with all parts of the State by railway, and has grown rapidly since the completion of these improvements. It was settled in 1828, and was incorporated as a city in 1853. MISCELLANIES. PONTIAC’S EFFORT TO CAPTURE

DETROIT. As every appearance of war was at an end, and the Indians seemed to be on a friendly footing, Pontiac approached Detroit without exciting any suspicions in the breast of the Governor or the inhabitants. He encamped at a little distance from it, and let the commandant know that he was come to trade; and being desirous of brightening the chain of peace between the English and his nation, desired that he and his chiefs might be admitted to hold a council with him. The Governor, still unsuspicious, and not in the least doubting the sincerity of the Indians, granted their general’s request, and fixed on the next morning for their reception. On the evening of that day an Indian woman, who had been appointed by Major Gladwyn to make a pair of Indian shoes out of a curious elkskin, brought them home. The major was so pleased with them that, intending these as a present for a friend, he ordered her to take the remainder back and make it into others for himself. He then directed his servant to pay her for those she had done, and dismissed her. The woman went to the door that led to the street, but no further; she there loitered about as if she had not finished the business on which she came. A servant at length observed her, and asked her why she stayed there. She gave him, however, no answer. Some short time after, the Governor himself saw her, and inquired of his servant what occasioned her stay. Not being able to get a satisfactory answer,. he ordered the woman to be called in. When she came into his presence, he desired to know what was the reason of her loitering about, and not hastening home before the gates were shut, that she might complete in due time the work he had given her to do. She told him, after much hesitation, that as he had alwa)ys 912

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MICHIGAN. behlaved with great goodness towards her, she was unwilling to take away the remainder of the skin, because he put so great a value upon it; and yet had not been able to prevail upon herself to tell him so. He then asked her why she was more reluctant to do so now than she had been when she made the former pair. With increased reluctance she answered, that she should never be able to bring them back. His curiosity was now excited; hlie insisted on her disclosing the secret that seemed to be struggling in her bosom for utterance. At last, on receiving a promise that the intelligence she was about to give him should not turn to her prejudice; and that, if it appeared to be beneficial, she should be rewarded for it, she informed him that at the council to be held with the Indians on the following day, Pontiac and his chiefs intended to murder him, and, after having massacred the garrison and inhabitants, to plunder the town. That for this purpose all the chiefs who were to be admitted into the council-room had cut their guns short, so that they could conceal them under their blankets; with which, on a signal given lby their general on delivering the belt, they were all to rise up and instantly to fire on him and his attendants. Having effected this, they were immediately to rush into the town, where they would find themselves supported by a great num ber of their warriors that were to come into it during the sitting of the council under the pretence of trading, but privately armed in the same manner. Having gained from the woman every necessary particular relative to the plot, and also the means by which she acquired a knowledge of them, he dismissed her with injunctions of secrecy, and a promise of fulfilling on his part with punctuality the engagements he had entered into. The intelligence the Governor had just received gave him great uneasiness, and he immediately consulted the officer who was next hinm in command on the subject. But this gentleman, considering the intbformation as a story invented for some artful purpose, advised him to pay no attention to it.

This conclusion, however, had happily no weight with him. He thought it prudent to conclude it to be true till hlie was convinced it was not so; and therefore, without revealing his suspicions to any other person, he took every needful precaution that the time would admit of. He walked around the fort for the whole night, and saw himself that every sentinel was upon duty, and every weapon of defence in proper order. As le traversed the ramparts that lay nearest to the Indian camp, he heard them in high,l festivity, and, little imagining that their plot was discovered, probably pleasing themselves with the anticipation of their success. As soon as the morning dawned, he ordered all the garrison under arms, and then, illmparting his apprehensions to a few of the principal officers, gave them such directions as he thought necessary. At the same time he sent round to all the traders to inform them, that as it was expected a great number of Indians would enter the town that day, who might be inclined to plunder, he desired they would have their arms ready, and repel any attempt of that kind. About 10 o’clock, Pontiac and his chiefs arrived, and were conducted to the council chamber, where the Governor and his principal officers, each with pistols in his belt, awaited his arrival. As the Indians passed on, they could not help observing that a greater number of troops than usual were drawn up on the parade, or marching about. No sooner were they entered, and seated on the skins prepared for them, than Pontiac asked the Governor on what occasion his young men, meaning the soldiers, were thus drawn up and parading the streets. 58 913

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. He received for answer that it was only intended to keep them perfect in their exercise. The Indian chief warrior now began his speech, which contained the strongest professions of friendship and good-will towards the English: and when hlie came to the delivery of the belt of wampum, the particular mnode of which, according to the woman’s information, was to be the signal for the chiefs to fire, the Governor and all his attendants drew their swords half way out of their scabbards; and the soldiers at the same time made a clattering with their arms before the door, which had been purposely left open. Pontiac, though one of the bravest men, immediately turned pale and trembled; and instead of giving the belt in the manner proposed, delivered it according to the usual way.

His chiefs, who had impatiently expected the signal, looked at each other with astonishment, but continued quiet waiting the result. The Governor, in his turn, made a speech; but, instead of thanking the great warrior for the professions of friendship he had just uttered, he accused him of being a traitor. He told him that the English, who knew everything, were convinced of his treachery and villanous designs; and as a proof that they were acquainted with his most secret thoughts and intentions, he stepped towards an Indian chief that sat nearest to him, and drawing aside the blanket, discovered the shortened firelock. This entirely disconcerted the Indians and frustrated their design. He then continued to tell them, that as he had given his word, at the time they had desired an audience, that their persons should be safe, he would hold his promise inviolable, though they so little deserved it. However, he desired them to make the best of their way out of the fort, lest his young men, on being acquainted with their treacherous purposes, should cut every one of them to pieces.

Pontiac endeavored to contradict the accusation, and to make excuses for his suspicious conduct; but the Governor, satisfied of the falsity of his protestations, would not listen to him. The Indians immediately left the fort; but, instead of being sensible of the Governor’s generous behaviour, they threw off the mask, and the next day made a regular attack upon it.

Thus foiled, Pontiac laid formal siege to the fortress, and for many months that siege was continued in a manner and with a perseverance unexampled among the Indians. Even a regular commissariat department was organized, and bills of credit drawn out upon bark were issued, and, what is rarer, punctually paid. MASSACRE AT THE RIVER RAISIN. Immediately after the battle of the 18th of January, 1813, some of the French inhabitants, who had sold provisions to the British, followed them to Malden to get their pay. On their return, they brought word that the British and Indians were collecting in large force, to the amount of 3000, to attack Frenchtown. General Winchester paid but little attention to these reports, feeling considerable confidence in his own strength, and expecting reinforcements that would render him safe beyond a doubt, before the enemy could possibly attack him. The British seemed to be aware that they must make the attack before these reinforcements came up, if they wished to effect anything; hence they hastened their preparations. On the 21st, several of the more prominent French citizens went to Winchester and told him that they had reliable information that the American 914

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MICHIGAN. camp would be attacked that night or the next day. He was so infatuated that he paid no further deference to their statement than to order those soldiers who were scattered around the settlement, drinking cider with the inhabitants, to assemble and remain in camp all night.

About daylight, on the morning of the 22d of January, 1813, a large force of British and Indians, under Proctor and the celebrated Indian chiefs, Round Head and Split Log, attacked the camp of the Americans. The attack was made all along the lines, but the British forces were more particularly led against the upper camp, occupied by Major Madison and Colonels Lewis and Allen, and the Indians against the lower camp, occupied by Colonel Wells. The British were unsuccessful at their part of the lines, where the Americans fought with great bravery, and were protected very much by the pickets, which, being placed at some distance from the woods, afforded the Kentucky riflemen a fine opportunity to shoot the enemy down as they were advancing. An attempt was then made by the British to use a field piece just at the edge of the woods, by which they hoped to prostrate the pickets and batter down the houses, but the Kentuckians, with their sharpshooters, picked the men off as fast as they attempted to load it, so that they were forced to abandon the attack and suffer a repulse. While these things were happening at the upper camp, a far different state of things existed at the lower one. The attack of the Indians was so impetuous, the position so indefensible, and the American force so inadequate, consisting of only 200 men, that, notwithstanding the bravery of Colonel Wells and his men, it was impossible to retain the position. Colonels Lewis and Allen attempted to take a reinforcement to the right wing, to enable Colonel Wells to retreat up the river on the ice, under cover of the high bank, to the upper camp. But before they arrived at the lower camp, the fire of the savages had become so galling that Wells was forced to abandon his position. This hlie attempted to do in good order, but as soon as his men began to give way, the Indians redoubled their cries and the impetuosity of their attack, so that the retreat speedily became a rout. In this condition they were met by Colonel Allen, who made every effort to call them to order and lead them in safety to the upper camp. But, notwithstanding the heroic exertions of Colonel Allen, and his earnest protestations and commands, they continued their disordered flight, and from some unaccountable reason, probably through an irresistible panic, caused by the terrible cries and onslaught of the savages, instead of continuing up the river to the upper camp, they fled diagonally across to the Hull road, so called, which led to Maumee, and attempted to escape to Ohio. And now the flight became a carnage. The Indians seeing the disorder of the Americans, who thought of nothing sve running for their lives, and escaping the tomahawks of the savages, having warriors posted all along the woods which lined or were within a short distance of the river, now raised the cry that the Americans were flying, which cry was echoed by thousands of warriors, who all rushed to the spot and outstripped the fleeing soldiers. Some followed them closely in their tracks and brained them with their tomalhawks from behind; some posted themselves on both sides of the narrow road and shot them down as they passed; and finally some got in advance, and headed them off at Plumb Creek, a small stream about a mile from the River Raisin. Here the panic-stricken soldiers, who had thrown away most of their arms to facilitate their flight, huddled together like sheep, with the brutal foe on all sides, were slaughtered, and so closely were they hemmed in, tradition says, that after the battle, 40 dead bodies were found lying scalped and plundered on 2 rods square. 915

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. General Winchester, impressed with the foolish idea that an attack would not be made, had retired the night before without having made any arrangements for safety or dispatch in case of an attack.

Therefore, when awakened by the fiiring, hlie and his aids made great confusion, all crying for their horses, which were in Colonel Navarre’s stable, the servants scarcely awake enough to equip them with haste. The luckless commander became very impatient to join his forces, nearly a mile distant, and, to gratify his desire, Colonel Navarre oflered him his best and fleetest horse, which had been kept saddled all night, as Navarre, in comlmioni with all the French inhabitants, expected an attack before morning. Oo tlhis horse he started for the camp, but, on the way, finding that a large numbel)e o()t’ the troops were then fleeing on the Hull road, hlie followed after thellm to rally them, and, if possible, regain the day; but on his way he was taken prisoner by an Indian (said to have been Jack Brandy), who knew by his clothes that he was an officer, and therefore spared his life. Proctor persuaded the Indian to deliver him over into his hands. Colonel Allen was also taken prisoner about the same time; he had behaved with extraordinary courage during the whole action, although wounded in the thigh. Hie was finally killed by an Indian while held a prisoner. With Winchester as his prisoner, Proctor felt that he could dictate terms to that portion of the American troops under the command of Major Madison in the upper camp, who had thus far made a successful resistance. Proctor sent with a flag one of General Winchester’s aids, with the peremptory orders of the latter, directing Major Madison to surrender. Colonel Proctor had demanded an immediate surrender, or he would burn the settlement, and allow the Indians to massacre the prisoners and the inhabitants of the place. Major Madison replied, that it was customary for the Indians to massacre the wounded and prisoners after a surrender, and he would not agree to any capitulation General Winchester might make, unless the safety and protection of his men were guaranteed. After trying in vain to get an unconditional surrender, Major Madison and his men being disposed to sell their lives as dearly as possible, rather than run the risk of being massacred in cold blood, Proctor agreed to the terms demanded, whlich were, that private property should be respected, that sleds should be sent next morning to take the sick and wounded to Malden, and that their side arms should be restored to the officers on their arrival there. These terms completed, the surrender was made, and the prisoners, and British, and Indians started for Maiden; not, however, until the Indians had violated the first article of the agreement, by plundering the settlement. But finally all departed, except the sick and wounded American soldiers, w;ho were left in the two houses of the upper camp, to await the coming of the sleds on the morrow. Only two or three persons were left in charge of them, a neglect which was nearly or quite criminal on the part of Proctor. The last and most disgraceful scene in this bloody tragedy was yet to be enacted. The sleds that were to take the ill-fated sufferers to Malden never came. In their stead came, the next morning, 300 Indians, painted black and red, determined on massacreing the wounded Americans, in revenge for their loss the day before. The slaug,htersoon commenced in earnest. Breaking into the houses where the Americans were, they first plundered and then tomahawked them. The houses were set on fire, and those within were consumed; if any attempted to crawl out of the d,oors or windows, they were wounded with the hatchet and pushed back into the flames: those that happened to be outside were stricken down, and their dying 916

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MICHIGAN. bodies thrown into the burning dwellings. Major Wolfolk, the secretary of General Winchester, was killed in the mnassacre. Thus ended the “Massacre of the River Raisin.” Thus perished in cold blood some of Kentucky’s noblest heroes: their death filled with sorrow many homes south of the Ohio. No monu]nent marks the place of their death: but little is known of the private history of those brave spirits who traversed a wilderness of several hundred miles, and gave up their lives for their country: who died alone, unprotected, wounded, in a settlement far from the abode of civilization. But few of the killed were ever buried. Their bones lay bleaching in the sun for years. On the 4th of July, 1818, a company of men under the charge of Colonel Anderson. an old settler of Frenchlitown, went to the spot of the battle and collected a large quantity of the bones, and buried them, with appropriate ceremonies, in the old graveyard in Monroe. For years after, however, it was not uncommon to find a skull, fractured by the fatal tomahawk, hidden away in some clump of bushes, where the dogs and wild beasts had dragged the body to devour its flesh. 917

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WISCONSI N. Area,…………. 53,924 Square Miles. Population in 1860…….. 775,881 Population in 1870…….. 1,055,133 THE State of Wisconsin is situated between 42~ 30’ and 46~ 55’ N. latitude, and between 87~ and 92~ 50’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Michigan, Lake Superior and Minnesota; on the east by Lake Michigan; on the south by Illinois; and on the west by Iowa and Minnesota. Its extreme length, from north to south, is about 285 miles, and its greatest breadth, from east to west, about 255 miles. TOPOGRAPHIIY. The surface of the State is generally an elevated rolling prairie. The highest point is in the northwest, while a slight ridge divides the waters flowing into Lake Superior from those flowing into the Mississippi. Another ridge crosses the south central part of the State. A third ridge crosses the southeast corner, and separates the rivers flowing into Green Bay from those emptying into Lake Michigan.

The rivers which flow into Lake Superior descend abruptly to it, and are broken by numerous falls and rapids, which afford fine mill sites. Lake Superior washes the northern shore of the State, and Lake Michigan the western. Green Bay enters the State from Lake Michigan, in the extreme northeast. It is about 100 miles long, and from 15 to 35 miles wide. It lies between this State and the northern peninsula of Michigan. It has an average depth of 500 feet, and abounds in picturesque scenery. It possesses an active trade, and is navigated by steamers to Green Bay City, its head. The Fox River unites the Bay with Lake Win. 918 .94

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WISCONSIN. nebago, about 25 miles south of Green Bay City. This lake is about 28 miles long, and about 10 miles wide. It is navigable for steamers, as is also the Fox River. The scenery is very beautiful. Fond du Lac, at the southern end of the Lake, is the principal town. From Oshkosh, on the western side of the Lake, a ship canal has been con structed to Portage City, which affords uninterrupted communication between the Mississippi River and Lake Michigan. The Mississippi River washes the southwestern shore of the State as far as Prescot, where it bends to the northwest, and passes into Minnesota. It receives the waters of the St.

Croix, the Chippewa, the Black, the Bad Axe, and the Wisconsin rivers. The St. Croix River rises south of the western end of Lake Superior, and flows southwest to the Minnesota line, when it turns to the south, separates Wisconsin from Minnesota, and empties into the Mississippi about 40 miles southeast of St. Paul. It is about 200 miles long. Near its mouth it expands into a lake 36 miles long, and 4 miles wide, known as St. Croix Lake. It is about 100 yards wide at its mouth. It is repeatedly broken by falls. The Chippewva is about 200 miles long, and the Black about 150. The WVisconsin River rises in the extreme northern part of the State, and flows south to Portage City, where it is joined by the waters of a number of small lakes, extending northeast into Lake Winnebago. This chain forms the Grand Portage, by means of which water communication is maintained between the Mississippi and the lakes. From Portage City it flows southwest into the Mississippi, near Prairie dut Chien. It is about 500
miles long, and is navigable for steamers for about 200 miles. The Menomonee forms a part of the northeast boundary, and flows into Green Bay. It falls 1049 feet during its course, and is an excellent mill stream. A number of small lakes are scattered through the State. MINERALS.

“The mineral resources of the State are varied and valuable. The lead region of Illinois and Iowa extends over an area of 2140 square miles in Wisconsin, which compares with the other portions in the abundance and richness of the ores. In 1863, there were 848,625 pounds of lead received at Milwaukee. The completion of the Southern Wisconsin Railroad will raise the aggregate to 2,500,000 pounds. It is mingled with copper and zinc ores. The iron region of Lake Superior presents within the limits of this State abundant deposits of great richness. Magnetic iron, pltlmbago, and the nIon 919 I

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. COPPER MIINE. metallic earths abound. Copper deposits have also been developed, but as yet have only been worked to a limited extent. Beautiful marbles, susceptible of elaborate working, exist. The mineral pro(luctions are rapidly opening a very inviting field for capital and inldustry, promising an iunmmense addition to the resources of this energetic young State.” CLIMATE. The winters are long and severe, but the temperature is somewhat mitigated by the lake breezes. The sumniers are warm, but pleasant. Tile State is healthy as a general rule, and is less liable than other new places to the diseases incident to new settlements, owing to the openness of the country. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil, as a general rule, is fertile, and is productive, even in thie mineral regions of the north. The best lands are on the prairies, where the soil consists of a dark brown vegetable mnould, from one to Report of the General Land Office. 920

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WISCONSIN. two feet in depth, very mellow, and entirely destitute of stones or gravel. ” Wisconsin possesses abundant timber resources, and an immense lumebering, business is carried onI in maniy of t]he nortlherni and western counties, the pineries of MAaratlhon, Chllipp(ewa, Clark, -W
ood, St. Croix, and other counties, furnishing many miliosS of feet of logs and lumber annually. Our Clark correspondent elaims that 100,0(00,000
feet of pine timber is cut each year in that county aloie; wilile in Ailonroe 30,000,000 feet is annually cut into lumber by about twenty miills. Hard wood timber also abounds in all parts of the State, and there are few counties without sutfi(ient wood for local uses. The lumbering, business is a source of great profit to those engaged in it, and in Brown county parties boast of cutting enough wlhite pine logs from eilghty acres to net $1200 to $1500.” * Ah’leat, corn, oats, potatoes, and hlay, are the staple crops of this State, the first named being the most important. In 1870, there were in Wisconsin 5,795,538 acres of improved land. In the same year the returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,… rye,….

Indian corn., oats,….. barley,… ” potatoes,.. Pounds of wool,…..

butter,… ” cleese,.. O ” hlops,… ToIns of hay,…… Nuumber of horses,… ” asses and mules ” cattle,… sheep,. swine,… milch cows,.2

Estimated value of all farm productions,… $77,507,261 Total assessed value of real and personal estate, $326,765,238 COMMATERCE AND

MANUFACTURES. Possessing water conmmunication with the St. Lawrence and the Miissi)ssipi, Wisconsin has a growing commerce. Her exports of grail *

Agricultural Report, April, 1868. 521 25,323,647 1,356,736 14,875,968

19,878,794 1,627,569 6,642,845 4,086,638 22,257,117 1,494,145 4,738,222

1,280,432 149,989 1.998 480,319 790,458 865,993 20-0,312 $28,000,000 i …. …. Value of domestic ai-iim,ls,,,tbout,..

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. and lumber are very large. In 1863, the foreign exports were valued at $3,323,637, and the imports at $24,47 9. A large part of the products of the State passes through Chicago. Manufactures are yet in their ilnfancy. In 1870, there were in the State 7136
establishments, employing 39,055 operatives, and producing goods to the amount of $85,624,966. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The State contained, in 1868, 1045 miles of completed railroads, constructed at a cost of $40,182,000. The principal towns of the State are connected with each other, and with all parts of the Union. The main lines lead either to Chicago, Illinois, or to St. Louis, Missouri. Besides these roads, there is thie 1)ortage Canal, already mentioned, connecting the Wisconsin with Lake Winnebago, which was constructed by the State. EDUCATION. There are seven colleges in the State, the principal of which is the State Ltiiiveirsity, at Madison. It embraces a College of Letters, a College of Arts, a Preparatory Department, and a Female Department. It is well endowed. There is a Normnal School at Platteville, and one at Whitewater, and measures are on foot to establish others at Stoughton, Oshkoslh, and Sheboygan. Teachers’ Institutes are held at stated times in various parts of the State. The educational system is under the general supervision of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, elected by thie people of the State for two years. Each county and each city has a separate Superintendent, who manages its affairs, as in the other Western States. There is a permanent school fund, amounting to $2,205,487.’ In 1870, the amount expended for the schools was $2,094,160. The number of public schools was 5000, attended by 264,525 pupils. In the same year there were about 400
private schools in the State, attended by about 30,000 pupils. In 1870, there were 2857 libraries in Wisconsin, containing 880,508 volumes. In the same year, the number of newspapers and periodicals published in the State was 173, nearly all political. They had an aggregate annual circulation of nearly 11,000,000 copies. 922

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WISCONSIN. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Prison is located at Waupun, and is one of the best in the country. Ili October, 1870, it contained 217
convicts. In May, 1870, the workshops were destroyed; loss, $70,000. The tlosl)italfor the Insane, at Madison, is an excellent institution, and is in a prosperous condition. In October, 1870, it contained 532 inmates. The Iistititte for the Edtucation of the Deaf and D)umb is at Delavan, and the I)itittution for the Education of the Blind, at Janesville. The former contains about 122, and the latter 64 pupils. They are excellent institutions, and besides furnishing their pupils with the rudiments of a plain education, teach them some simple, but useful employment. The Stacte -Reform School, at WVaukesha, is in excellent condition, and is conducted on the family system. In 1870, it contained 239 boys and girls. The Soldiers’ Orphan’s Ho))e School, at Madison, is in a prosperous condition, and is crowded to its utmost capacity. In 1870, it contained 331 pupils.

RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1870, there were 1396 churches in Wisconsin.

The value of church property was $4,749,983. FINANCES. In 1870, the total debt of the State amounted to $2,252,057. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year, ending September 30th, 1870, were $886,696, and the expenditures $906,329. In 1868, there were 34 National banks, with a capital of $2,960,000 doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. In this State, all citizens of the United States, without regard to color, all foreigners who have legally declared their intention to become citizens, Indians who have been declared citizens by Congress, and civilized persons of Indian descent who do not belong to any tribe, are entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, State Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legis 923

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. lature, consisting of a Senate (of 33 nmembers) and House of Representatives (of 100 members), all chosen by the people. The State officers and Senators are elected for t\vo years, and Representatives for one year. The general election is held in November.

The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court (consisting of a Chief Justice and two Associates, elected by the people for six y’ears), Circuit Courts, County Courts with probate powers, and in Justices of the Peace.

All judg,es are elected by the people. The seat of Government is established at Madison. The State is divided into 58 counties. HISTORY.

The country west of Lake MAichigan was first explored by the French, in 16(59. Its name is derived from its principal river, which was called by the Chippewas, who dwelt along its head waters, Weeskon-san, which signifies “gathering of the waters.” In 1661, the Jesuits in Canada began to establish missions along the south side of Lake Superior; and in 1668, after the peace between the French and the Six Nations, a number of new missions were established, and the country fully explored. Father MIarquette and his companions passed from the head of Green Bay to anl Indian village on the upper part of Fox River. Father Allouez had visited this village, but no Frenchman had ever gone beyond it. “Being guided by the friendly Indians, Marquette and his companiO1S came to the \Vis(onsin River, about three leagues distant, whose waters flowed westward. They floated down the river till the 17thl of June, 1673, when they rea(ched the Mississi)ppi, the great’Father of Araters,’ which they entered with’a joy that could not be expressed,’ and raising their sails to new skies, and to unknown breezes, floated down this mighty river, between broad plains, garlanded with majestic forests and chequered with illimitable praries and island groves. They descended about 180 miles, when Marquette and Joliet landed, and followed an Indian trail about six miles, to a village. They were nlet by four old men, bearing the pipe of peace and’brilliant withl many colored plumes.’ An aged chief received them at his cab)in, and, withl uplifted hands, exclaimed:‘How beautiful is the sun, Frenchmen, when thou comest to visit us!-our whole village awaits theein peace thou shalt enter all our dwellings.’ I-Previous to their departtre, an Indian chief selected a peace pipe from among his warriors, emnbellished with gorgeous pI)lumage, which he hung around the neck 924

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WISCONSIN. of AIlarquette,‘the mysterious arbiter of peace and war-the sacred calumiet-the white mnan’s protection among savages.’ On reaclhing their boats, the little group proceeded olnward.‘I did not,’ says Marquette,’ fcar death; I should have esteemied it the greatest happiness to have died for the glory of God.’ They passed the mouth of the Missouri, and the humble missionary resolved in his mind, one day, to ascend its mighty current, and ascertain its source; and descending from thence toward the west, publish the gospel to a people of lwhom he had never heard. Passing onward, they floated by the Ohlio, then, and for a brief time after, called the Wabash, and continued their explorations as far south as the mouth of the Arkansas, where they were escorted to the Indian village of Arkansea. Being snow satisfied that the Mississippi entered the Gulf of Mexico, west of Florida, and east of California; and having spoken to the Indians of God and the mysteries of the Catholic faith, Marquette and Joliet prepared to ascend the stream. They returned by the route of the Illinois River to Green Bay, where they arrived in August. Marquette remained to preach the gospel to the Miamis, near Chicago. Joliet, in person, conveyed the glad tidings of their discoveries to Quebec. They were received with enthusiastic delight. The bells were rung dluriing, the whole (lay, and all the clergy and dignitaries of the place went in procession, to the cathedral, where Te Deum was suing and high mass celebrated.” The country continued to be occupied by French traders and missioniaries, until the treaty of 1763, by which it was surrendered to Great Britain. The territory was governed by the laws of Canada until after the Revolution. Great Britain parted with it reluctantly, and did not withdraw her garrison from the post at Green Bay, until 1796. It was then made a part of the Northwest Territory of the United States. In 1809, it was included in the Territory of Illinois, and continued to form a part of it until 1818, when, Illinois became a State of the Union. Then Wisconsin was joine(l to Michigan for purposes of government. The principal events of the Black Hawk war occurred withlin the limits of the present State of Wisconsin, and the country was thus l)rought so conspicuously before the public, that its merits excited a decided einthlusiasmrl amongst the people. After the peace, many emligraits located themselves in the southern part. In 1836, MLIichigan was erected into a State, and Wisconsin was organized as a separate Territory. In 1841, a heavy emigration set 925

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. in, and continued during 1842 and 1843. In the last year, the lnumber of persons who settled in the Territory is estimated at over 60,000. The population increased rapidly, and on the 29th of May, 1848, Wisconsin was admitted into the Union as a State. During the rebellion this State contributed 96,118 men to the service of the United States. CITIES AND TOWN?S. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of the State are: A[iluwaukee, Green Bay, Watertown, Prarie du Chien, Racine, Kenosha, Janesville, Beloit, La Crosse, and Fond du Lac.

MADISON, The capital of the State, is situated in Dane county, on an isthmus between Lakes MIendota and Monona, 80 miles west of Milwaukee, and 132 miles northwest of Chicago. Latitude 430 5’ T., longitude 89~ 20’ W.

The city lies in the midst of the “Four Lake Region,” so called from a chain of beautiful lakes which extend over a distance of 16 miles, and discharge their surplus waters into Yahara or Catfish River, a tributary of Rock River. AMenidota, or Fourth Lake, the uppermost and largest, is 9
miles long, 6 miles wide, and from 50 to 70 feet deep in some places, and is fed chiefly by springs. It has beautiful white gravelly shores, and pure cold water. Mon)na, or Third Lake, is 521 miles long, and two miles wide; and lakes Wanbesa and Kegonisa are each about 3 miles in length, by 2 miles in width. The istlnhmus is about three-quarters of a mile in width. The city stands in the centre of a broad valley surrounded by heights from which it can be seen for several miles. “Madison perhaps combines and overlooks more charming and diversified scenery, to please the eye of fancy, and promote health and pleasure, than any other town in the West; and in these respects it surpasses every other State capital in the Union. Its brilght lakes, fresh groves, rippling rivulets, shady dales, and flowery meadow lawns are commingled in greater profusion and disposed in miore picturesque order than we have ever elsewhere beheld.”

The citv is handsomely built, with broad, wellshaded, and paved streets dclro)ping, down to the shlores of its pretty lakes. It contains many hlandsoime public buildings, commercial edifices, and private dwellin,s.

The Cal)itol is the pincipal edifice. It stands in the centre of the city, in the midst of a beautiful park of 14 acres, and is 70 feet 926

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WISCONSIN. above the level of the lakes. It is built of native limestone, and is an imposing structure. Its original cost was $500,000. The Court House is a tasteful building. The public schools of the city are among the best in the State, and are in a flourishing condition. They consist of a high school, and a grammar school for each ward. Besides these are several private schools. The State University stands on the outskirts of the city, in a grove of 40 acres, and on an eminence overlooking the lakes. It has an annual income of over $30,000. It possesses a fine library. The Histoiicat Society is a flourishing institution, with a good library and collection of relics, etc. The libraries of the city, including that of the State, number over 30,000 volumes. The State Lunatic Asylum is located here. The city contains about 14 churches, and 6 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas and supplied with pure water. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. Ill 1870, the population was 9176. Madison is supplied with excellent waterpower, and is to a limited extent engaged in manufactures.

It is a place of considerable trade, and since the completion of the railways connecting it with the other parts of the State, has grown in every respect with marlked rapidity. It is much frequented by pleasure seekers as a place of summnler resort, and is regarded as one of the healthiest cities in the Union. 927

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1836, MIadison was selected as the seat of the State Government. At this timte but a solitary log, cabii. narked the site. For several years its growth was slow, but thle completion of the railways from the southward gave it an imp)ettus which set it fairly on the way to its present prosperity. MIILWAUKEE, The metropolis of the State, is situated in tile county of the same name, on the western shlore of Lake MAichligan, at the mouth of the Mlilwaukee River, 75 miles east of Madison, and 90 miles north of Chicago. “The river approachles from the north in a direction nearly parallel with the lake shore, and is joined about half a mile from its mouth by the MIenomonee River, which comes from the wvest. The largest boats of the lakes can ascend the river two miles from its mouth, as also the Menomonee for some distance above its confluence with the Milwvaukee. About S100,000 have been expenlded( for the improvement of the harbor in addition to the app)ropriation by Congress for that purpose, so that now the city has one of the best harbors upon the whole chain of lakes.” The city lies on both sides of the river, and is built partly upon the river flats and partly upon the bluffs which overlook the lakle. These latter are from 20 to 100 feet high, and are nearly perpendicular. The city is regularly laid out, with wide, straight, wellpaved streets. It is one of the best built cities in the wvest, and is noted for its peculiar appearance. A large portion of its buildings are of brick made in the viciinity. These bricks are of a light straw color and are very hard and smnooth. They give to the city a light and pleasing appearance whlich has earned it thle name of the “Cream City”

of the lakes. Tile ” MAilwaukee brick ” is now very l)opular in all parts of the country, and large quantities of it are shipped annually, even as far east as Nevw r ork and Boston. Malany of the residences are elegant and tastefil, alnd the business portions contain some splendid warehouses.

The principal public buildings are the Custom1 iIo tse and Court I]otuec.

The former is a file structure of Athens stone. There are about 13 public schools, a female college, and several private schlools in the city. Also about 43 or 44 clhurelies, 5 daily and 7 wceekly newspapers, and 3 hlotels and a public lil)rary. The Benevolent and Charitable institutions inclulde 3 orphan asylums, 2 hlos)ita.ls, and several associations for the relief of the poor and afflicted. 928

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W’ISCONS IN. -. RIVE R AVIEW 1-N IILW~AUKEE. The city is lighted withl gas, and is supplied with water. Street railways connect the distant points. There are also an efficient police force, a fire alarm telegraph, and a steam fire department. The city government consists of a M5ayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 71,499. Nearly onehalf of tlhe inhabitants are Germans or of German parentage, and the city is in many respects as much German as American in its characteristics. The annual product of lager beer is nearly 3,00,()000 gallons. Six railwavs connect Milwauklee with all parts of the country, and steamers ply between it and the other lake ports. It is the shipping point and outlet of one of the richest grain producing countries in the world, and is the greatest primary wheat market in the world. In 1862, its receipts of wheat, and flour reduced to wheat, anmounted to 18,000,000 bushels. In 1865, 13,250,000 bushels were exported. It is provided with ample storage accommodations for grain, and its elevators are among the curiosities of the place. That of the Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway will hold 1,500,000
bushels. There is direct communication with Detroit (luring the whole year, steamers plying, retgularly between Milwaukee and Grand Haven in connection with the MAilwaukee and Detroit Railway. Great quantities of lumber are annually exported. 929 159

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The Milwaukee River has been damrnmed, and affords fine waterpower, which is used by the rapidly growing manufactories of the city. Flour, iron, and iron ware, machinery, and beer, are the principal products. One of the largest rolling mnills in the West is located here.

Milwaukee derives its name from an Indian word fle-ne-aw-kee, said to signify rich or beautiful land. In 1785, a trading post was established here by Alexander Laframboise, from Mackinaw, but the town was not settled until 1835. At first its growth was not only slow, but was hampered by the obstacles so common to western land speculations in those days. From about the year 1841, however, the improvement of Milwaukee has been rapid. In 1846, it was incor)orated as a city. In 1840, the population was 1751; ill 1850, 20,035; in 1860, 45,254; in 1870, 71,499. RACINE, The second city of the State, is situated in the county of the same name, on the western shore of Lakle Michigan, at the mouth of Root River, 75 miles east-southeast of Madison, 25 miles south-by-east of Milwaukee, and 62
miles north of Chicago. The city is built on level ground, elevated about 40 feet above the surface of the lake, and is regutlarly laid out in rectangular blocks with wide streets. It is an attractive and well-built city, and contains several fine public buildings. Many of the private residen(ces are handsome. The public schools, 6 in number, are among the best in the State, and there are also several private schools. Racine College, conducted by the Protestant Episcopal Church, is a flourishing institution. The city contains about 16 churches, and 4 newspaper offices.

It is lighted with gas and supplied with water. The city government consists of a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was.9880. Racine possesses one of the best harbors on LakeMichigan, which is here 70 miles wide. Vessels drawing over 12 feet of water can enter. The lake trade is large and is increasing. Vast quantities of grain and lumber are shipped by way of the lake. There is railway communication with the principal towns of the State and with Chicago. The Racine and Mississippi Railway connects the city with the Mississippi River at Savanna, Illinois. The city is to a limited extent engaged in manufactures, and this branch of its industry is growing with rapidity. Steam engines, boilers, agricultural implements, flour, and leather, are produced in 930

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WISCONSIN. considerable quantities. In spite of its formidable rivals, Chicago and Milwaukee, Racine is increasing in size and wealth at a most encouraging rate. It was first settled in 1835, and, in 1848, was incorporated as a city. FOND DU LAC, In Fond du Lac county, is the third city of the State. It is situated at the southern end of Winnebago Lake, the largest of the inland lakes of the State. It is 90 miles northeast of Madison, and 72 miles north-northwest of Milwaukee. The city is pleasantly situated on ground which gradually rises as it recedes from the lake, and the streets and yards of the dwellings are so well supplied with shade trees and shrubbery that the place seems to lie in a bower of green foliage. It is regularly laid out, and is well built. “The site,” says a visitor, “is part prairie and part woodland, a river dividing it. Twelve years ago it had but one chimney, and the pockets of most of its earlier settlers were as deficient in means as the houses of this most necessary appurtenance; now it has a population of thousands, churches of various kinds, some fine stores, and one especially fine block, containing a hall which is said to be the handsomnest in the West, and capable of accommodating 3000 people. The hall has a centre dome of stained glass, and the effect is very pleasing. From the top of the building an incomparable view is to be had of the city, lake, prairie, river, and woods. The foreign element here is German, and an intelligent class of people, obedient to law, and comprehending the opportunities a free country offers to them and their children. The people look healthy and happy, and there is an appearance of comfort and thrift about them and their dwellings. There are no showy houses, but neat, well-arranged buildings, with yards, in which stand the forest trees found there, and enlivened by flowers and shrubs. The settlers have shown a taste ind respect for the forest trees, leaving them unmolested, and clumps of oakls and hickories in the cultivated fields are pleasant to look upon, and their shade must delight the cattle in summer. The beauty of this country is indescribable, the whole having the appearance of a well-cared-for park.” The city contains about 12 churches, 3 public schools, and 1 daily and 3 weekly newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with an abundance of pure water by means of artesian wells, which are so numerous here that almost every dwelling has one. 931

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THE GREAT, REPIUBLIC. These wells vary in depth, from 90 to 130 feet. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. The population in 1870 was 12,764.

Lake Winnebago, on which the city is situated, is a beautiful sheet of water, 30 miles long and 10 miles wide, and is the channel of an extensive trade, being one of the chain of navigable waters which connect Lake Michigan with the Mississippi by means of the Wisconsin River. It empties it waters into Green Bay, through the Fox River, which has been rendered navigable for steamers. A canal has been cut from the Fox River to the Wisconsin, and steamers pass from Green Bay into the latter river. A very large trade ill lumber and grain is thus brought to Fond du Lac. There are about 6 grain elevators in the city, and about 16 or 17 sawmills.

Railways connect the city with the principal points in the West. There are a number of factories of agricultural implenments, soap, and flour here, besides a large shop for the construction of railway cars. Fond du Lac was originally a French trading-post, but the settlement of the city was not begun until about 1835. Since then it has grownil with great rapidity.

OSHKOSH, In Winnebago county, is the fourth city of the State. It is pleasantly situated on both sides of the Fox River, at its entrance into Lake Winnebago. It is built on ground gradually sloping towards the lake and river, thus securing excellent drainage for the whole city.

Immediately above the town the Fox River broadens out into the Lake Butte des Mortes. Oshkosh is regularly laid out, and is built principally of wood. The County Court House and Jail, a handsome edifice, is the principal building. There are about 12 churches, several public and private schools, and 3 newspapers in the city. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, tlm population was 12,663.

The city is largely engaged in the manufacture of lumber, there being about 17 sawmills, cutting about 50,000,000 feet of lumber annually, besides laths and pickets. There are also 6 shingle mills, which cut 6,500,000 shingles per annuni, and several planing mills, and sash and door, and fence factories. The city also contains several founderies, machine shops, agricultural machine shops, flouring mills, tanneries, and breweries. A considerable quantity of grain is sent here for shipment. A ship-yard is located here for the construction 932

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WISCONSIN. of barges and steamers for the Mississippi trade. Several boats built here were plying on that river and its tributaries previous to the war. Steamers from Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, have discharged cargo here.

Railways connect the city with the principal towns of the State. Just above Oshkosh lie the vast timber regions of Wisconsin, which are reached by ascending the Wolf River, which is navigable for small steamers for 100
miles from the city. Owing to the proximity of so much water, the heats of the summner is much moderated at Oslhkosh, and the place has become one of the most popular sunmmer resorts in the State. MISCELLANY. THE OLDEST MAN

IN THE WORLD. Joseph Crele died in Caledonia, a little town in Wisconsin, on the 27th of January, 1866. He was probably the oldest man in the world, being, at the time of his death, 141 years of age. He was born of French parents, in 1725, at a French trading-post, which has since grown into the present city of Detroit. The baptismal register of the Catholic Church in that city settles this fact positively. He lived in Wisconsin for about 100 years. Ile was at one time a French sol(lier, and bore arms at Braddock’s defeat. He married in New Orleans in 1754, when nearly 30. A few years after his marriage, hlie settled at Prairie du Chien, while Wisconsin was still a province of France. Before the Revolutionary war, he was employed to carry letters between Prairie du Chien and Green Bay. A few years ago, lie was called as a witness in the Circuit Court of Wisconsin, to give testimony relating to events that had transpired 80
years before. For some years before his death, the old gentleiman resided with a daughter by his third wife at Caledonia. He was 69 when this child was born. Until 1864, Mhr. Crele was as hearty and active as most men of 70. He could walk several miles without fatigue, and frequently clhopped wood for the family use. He cast his first vote for Washington, and after that never failed to vote at every election. He had no bad habits, except that he was a constant smoker. In person, hlie was rather above the medium height, spare in flesh, but showing evidences of having been in his prime-100 years ago-a man of powerful physical organization. During the last few years of his life, le experienced a haunting sense of loneliness, and would frequently exclaim with sadness that lie feared Death had forgotten him. 933

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~~, M I NT-E S OTA. Area,…………….. Population in 1860……..

Population in 1870,……. THE State of Minnesota is situated between 43~

30’ and 49~ N. latitude, and between 89~ 30’ and 97~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by Lake Superior and Wisconsin, on the south by Iowa, and on the west by Dakota Territory.

TOPOGRAPHY. The State Government has recently published an excellent description of Minnesota, prepared by Col. Girart Hewitt, of St. Paul. We take the following from it: “Although Minnesota is not a mountainous country by any means, its general elevation gives it all the advanta,ges of one, witllout its ol)jectionable features. Being equidistant fromn the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, situated on an elevated plateau, and with a systemI of lakes and rivers ample for an empire, it has a pecullar climate of its own, possessed by no other State. The general surface of the greater part of the State is even and undulating, and pleasantly diversified with rolling prairies, vast belts of timber, oak openings, numerous lakes and streams, with their accompalnying meadows, waterfalls, wooded ravines, and lofty bllffs, whlicll impart variety, grandeur and picturesque beauty to its scenery. “The Mississippi River, 2400 miiles long, which drains a larger region of country than any streani on the globe. with the exception of 934 83,531 Square Miles. 172,413 439,706

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MINNESOTA. FALLS OF ST ANTIION. the Amazon, rises in Lake Itasca, in the northern part of Minnesota, and flows southeasterly through the State 797
miles, 134 of which forms its eastern boundary. It is navigable for large boats to St. Paul, and above the Falls of St. Anthony for smaller boats for about 1;50 miles farther. The season of navigation has opened as early as the 25th of March, but usually opens from the first to the middle of Ap)ril, and closes betweenl the middle of November and the first of December. In 1865 and 1866, steamboat excursions took place on the first of December, from St. Paul, and the river remained openi several days longer; in 1867 until December 1st. The principal towns and cities on the Mississippi in Minnesota, are, Winona, Wabashaw, Lake City, Red Wing, Hastings, St. Paul, Minneapolis, St. Anthony, Anoka, Dayton, Monticello, St. Cloutd, Sauk Rapids, Little Falls, Watab. The l[innesota -liver, the source of which is among the Coteau des Prairies, in Dakota Territory, flows from Big Stone Lake, on the western boundary of the State, a distance of nearly 500 miles, through the heart of the southwestern part of the State, and empties into the Mississippi at Fort Snelling, 5 miles above St. Paul. 935

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. It is navigable as high up as the Yellow Medicine, 238
miles above its mouth during good stages of water. Its principal places are Shakopee, Chaska, Carver, Belle Plaine, Henderson, Le Steur, Tra verse des Sioux, St. Peter, Mankato, and New Ulin. The St. Croix River, rising in Wisconsin, near Lake Superior, forms about 130 miles of the eastern boundary of the State. It empties into the Mississippi nearly opposite Hastings, and is navigable to Tay]or’s Fall, about 50 miles. It penetrates the pineries, and furnishes immense waterpower along its course. The principal places on it are Stillwater and Taylor’s Falls. The Red River rises in Lake Traverse, and flows northward, forming the western boundary of the State from Big Stone Lake to the British possessions, a distance of 380 miles. It is navigable from Breckenridge, at the mouth of the Bois de Sioux River, to Hudson’s Bay; the Saskatchlewan, a tributary of the Red River, is also said to be a navigable stream, thus promising an active commercial trade from this vast region when it shall have become settled up, vid the St. Paul and Pacific Railroad, which connects the navigable waters of the Red River with those of the Mississippi. Among the more important of the numerous small streams are Rum River, valuable for lumbering; Vermilion River, furnishing extensive waterpower, and possessing some of the finest cascades in the United States; the Crow, Blue Earth Root, Sank, Le Sueur, Zumbro, Cottonwood, Long Prairie, Red Wood, Waraju, Pejuta Ziza, Mauja, Wakau, Buffalo, Wild Rice, Plum, Sand Hill, Clear Water, Red Lake, Thief Black, Red Cedar, and Des Moines rivers; the St. Louis River, a large stream flowing into Lake Superior, navigable for 20 miles from its lake outlet, and furnishing a waterpower at its falls said to be equal to that of the Falls of the Mississippi at St. Anthony, and many others, besides all the innumerable hosts of first and secondary tributaries to all the larger streams.” Lake Superior washes the eastern boundary of the State for a distance of 167 miles, and has several fine harbors. Minnesota is thickly studded with small lakes, which abound in fish and game, and give a rich beauty to the landscape.

Professor Maury says that Minnesota is the best watered State in the Union, although one of the farthest from the sea, owing its abundant summer rains to the presence of these lakes. MINERALS. Iron is abundant along the shores of Lake Superior. Copper is found in small quantities.

Coal and red pipe-clay are the other mine 936

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MINNESOTA. rals. Gold quartz has been found in Carlton county, and gold and silver about 80 miles northwest of Lake Superior. CLIMATE. Minnesota has been so strongly recommended as a resort for invalids, that the following remarks upon the climate, taken from the work of Colonel Hewitt, will be found interesting. “The assertion that the climate of Minnesota is one of the healthiest in the world, may be broadly and confidently made.

It is sustained by the almost unanimous testimony of thousands of invalids who have sought its pure and bracing air, and recovered from consumption and other diseases after they had been given up as hopeless by their home physicians; it is sustained by the experience of its inhabitants for twenty years; and it is sustained by the published statistics of mortality in the different States. Minnesota is entirely exempt from mnalaria, and consequently the numerous diseases known to arise fronm it, such as chills an(l fever, autumnal fevers, ague cake or enlarged spleen, enlargement of the liver, etc., dropsy, diseases of the kidneys, affections of the eye, and various bilious diseases, and derangements of the stomach and bowels, although sometimes arising from other causes, are often due wholly to mnalarious agency, and are only temporarily relieved by medicine, because the patient is constantly exposed to the malarious influence which generates them. Enlargement of the liver and spleen is very common in southern and southwestern States. We are not only free from those ailments, but by coming to Minnesota, often without any medical treatment at all, patients speedily recover from this class of diseases; the miasmatic poison being soon eliminated from the system, and not being exposed to its further inception, the functions of health are gradually resumed. I)iarrhcea and dysentery are not so prevalent as ill warmer latitudes, and are of a milder type. Pneumonia and typhoid fever are very seldom met with, and then merely as sporadic cases. Diseases of an epidemic character never have been known to prevail here.‘Even that dreadful scourge, diphtheria, which, like a destroying angel, swept through portions of the country, leaving desolation in its train, passed us by with scarce a grave to mark its course. The diseases common to infancy and childhood partake of the same mild character, and seldom prove fatal.’ This is the language of Mrs. Colburn, an authoress, and the experience of physicians corroborates this opinion. That dreadful scourge of the human family, the cholera, is alike unknown 937

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. here. During the summer of 1866, while hundreds were daily cut down by this visitationi in New York, Cincinnati, St. Louis, and other places, and it prevailed to an alarmiing extent in Chicago, not a single case made its appearance in Minnesota. Another, and a very large class of invalids, who derive great benefit from the climate of Minnesota, are those whose systems have become relaxed, debilitated, and broken down by over-taxation of the mental and physical energies, dyspepsia, etc.”

SOIL AND PRODUCTS. “The prevailing soil of Minnesota,” says the work quoted above, “is a dark, calcareous, sandy loam, containing a various intermtixture of clay, abounding in mineral salts and in organic ing,redients, derived fromi the accumulation of decomp)osed vegetable matter for long ages of growth and decay. The sand, of which silica is the base, forirms a larg(e proportion of this, as of all good soils. It plays an important part in the economy of growth, and is an essential constituent in the organism of all cereals. About 67 per cent. of the ash of the steims of vlwheat, corn, rye, barley, oats and sugarcane, is pure silica or flint. It is this which gives the glazed coating to the plants, and gives strength to the stalk.” Ini 1869, the agricultural returns were as follows’ Acres of improved land,. Bushels of wheat,… ” oats,…

Indian corn,. barley,.. buckwheat,. ” ryve,… Irish potatoes, “
apples,… Tons of hay, (cultivated) i 4 (wild).. Pounds of butter,… “
wool,. Number of horses,… ” milch cows,. mules and asses, ” sheep,… “
swine,… ” cattle,… Value of domestic animals 933 1,611,594 17,271,968

10,762,209 4,236,822 1,256,686 51,6S4 7,5,866 1,633,483 9,932 - 73,691

543,758 6,593,528 385,766 45,780 60,740 578 27,890 150,880 98,479

$6,642,841 …. …. …. i

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MINNESOTA. MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. Manufactures are still in their infancy. Saw mills at present constitute the majority of the establishments of the State. The State has no foreign commerce, but its trade with the country south and southeast of it is growing rapidly. The great export is lumber, which, in 1860, was valued at $1,234,203. St. Paul maintains an active trade along the upper Mississippi. INTERNAL

IMPROVEMENTS. Early in 1868, there were 392 miles of completed railroads in Minnesota, constructed at a cost of $12,450,000. At the close of the year the inumber of miles had been increased to 559. At the close of 1870
the length of completed lines was 1096 miles. St. Paul, and( the principal towns in the southeast part of the State, are connected with each other, and with Chicago and St. Louis, through Wisconsin and Illinois. The Northern Pacific Railroad is being constructed across the northern part of the State from Lake Superior westward. EDUCATION. Minnesota possesses a State university and three normal schools, all of which are in flourishing condition. The first is liberally end(lowed by the State. The Governor, in his last annual message, says: “Minnesota has a larger number of schoolhouses than any other State of the same population and taxable property. Her total expenditures for school purposes during the last two years excee(de(l $1,500,000, and her schoolhouses have already cost over $100,000.” Tile State has a permanent school fiund arising from the sales of public lands, and amiounting to $2,476,222. There are lands enough on hand, if judiciously disposed of, to increase this fundto $15,000,000.

Taxes are levied for the support of the schools. The system of education is under the supervision of the Superintendent of Public Instruction, who is elected by the people for two years, and reports annually to the Legislature. The first superintendent was elected in 1867, the duties of the office having been previously discharged by the Secretary of State.

Each county is provided with a County Superintendent, but the immediate management of each school is vested in a Board of Trustees. In 1870, the number of school districts was 2626; the number of 939

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. teachers 4111; and the number of pupils 110,590. The whole amount expended for school purposes was $857,816. In 1867, there were 50 private schools in the State, attended by 4316 pupils. PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS. The State Prison is at Stillwater. It is in excellent condition, and in November, 1867, contained 45 convicts. A Reform School has recently been opened by the State at St. Paul. In 1870, it contained 82 inmates. The charitable institutions of Minnesota have been but recently established, but are prosperous and of a high character. The State authorities are determined that they shall be second to none in the Union. The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb, and the Blind, is located at Faribault. It is provided with fine buildings, and ample grounds, and contains about 87 deaf mutes and blind persons. The Hospital for Insane is at St. Peter. Patients are now accommodated in temporary quarters; but handsome and commodious buildings are being erected by the State. In 1870, there were 100 patients under treatment. LIBRARIES AND NEWSPAPERS. In 1860, there were 89 libraries in Minnesota, containing 33,649 volumes; and in the same year, there were 4 daily, and 45 weekly newspapers, with an aggregate annual circulation of 2,344,000 copies, published in the State.

RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 260 churches in Minnesota.

The value of church property was $478,200. FINANCES. The Constitution of Minnesota limits the loans of the State to $350,000. At the close of 1870, the State debt was about $285,503. The receipts of the Treasury for that year were $732,069, and the expenditures $595,905. In 1868, there were 15

National banks, with a capital of $1,710,000, doing business in the State.

940

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MINNESOTA. GOVERNMENT. The Constitution of this State was adopted in 1856, and grants the right to vote at the elections to all minale persons over 21 years of age, who are of the following classes, viz.: citizens of the United States; foreigners who have legally declared their intention to become citizens; civilized persons of mixed white and Indian blood; and Indians not belonging to any tribe, who have been pronounced capable of voting by any District Court. The last named class must have adopted the language, customs, and habits of the whites, and must have resided in the United States one year, in the State four months, and in the district ten days preceding the election. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives, all chosen by the people. The Senators, 22 in number, are elected for two years, one half annually. The Representatives number 47, and are elected annually. The Auditor is chosen for three years, the rest of the State officers for two years. The general election is held in November, and the Legislature meets annually, on the Tuesday after the first MIonday in January. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court (elected for seven years), District Courts, Courts of Probate, and in Justices of the Peace. The Legislature has power to establish from time to time such other Courts, inferior to the Supreme Court, as may be found necessary. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and two Associates. All judges are elected by the people. The seat of Government is established at St. Paul. The State is divided into 64 counties.

HISTORY. The State of Minnesota derives its name from an Indian word signifying “sky-tinted water.” It was first entered by a Frenchman named Daniel Greysolou du Luthl, in 1678. In 1679 Father Hennepin, and( two others who had formed a part of La Salle’s expedition, accompanied the Indians to their village, 180 miles above the Falls of St. Anthony, to which they gave the name borne by the cataract to-day. In 1689 the territory was formally taken possession of in the name of the French king by Perrot and his companions. They built a fort on the west shore of Lake Pepin, just above its 941

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. entrance. In 1695 a second fort was built by Le Sueur, on an island in the Mississippi, just below the mouth of the St. Croix.

InI 1700 he built a fort on the Minnesota. The fur traders now came into the territory in great numbers, but no permanent settlement was made for purposes of colonization. In 1763 Captain Jonathan Carver, of Connecticut, visited Minnesota, and published a description of the country. In 1800
that part of the present State of Minnesota lying east of the Mississippi River was included in the Territory of Indiana. In 1803 the purchase of Louisiana placed the United States in possession of the lands west of the Mississippi. Fort Snelling was erected in 1819, and garrisoned by the United States. The territory was already the seat of an active trade with the Indians, and the Government had some trouble in enforcing its regulations among the traders. Minnesota was explored in 1820 by General Lewis Cass, and in 1823 by Maijor Long. A third exploring party was sent out in 1832 under Ileniiry R. Schooleraft, who discovered the source of the Mississippi River. Frequent surveys and explorations were made after this, until the region became very well known. In 1842 the town of St.

Paul was founded, and emigrants commenced to settle ill the territory. In 1849 the Territory of Minnesota was organized by Congress. The population was estimated at 4857 souls, and one half of the lands included in the new Territory were still the property of the Indians. Emigrants came in fast, however, and in 1857 the population was ascertained by a census to be 150,037. In 1856 Congress authorized the people of the Territory to form a State Constitution, which was done, and on the 11th of May, 1858, Minnesota was admitted into the Union as a sovereign State. During the late war, the State contributed a force of 24,263 men to the service of the United States. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, there is no large city in the State. The most important places are, Minneapolis, St.

Anthony, Winona, Rochester, Austin, Faribault, and Henderson. ST. PAUL, In Ramsey county, is the capital of the State. It is situated on the left bank of the Mississippi River, 2070 miles from its mouth, 9 miles by land below the Falls of St. Anthony, and 400 miles northwest of Chicago.

Latitude 44~ 52’ 46” N.; longitude 93~ 5’ W. 942

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MINNESOT A. ST. PAUL. The city is built on a bluff 70 or 80 fcet above tile level of the river. The sides of this bluff have been gradually graded until they now form a succession of terraces, upon which the greater part of the business portion is located. Considering the difficulties to be overcome, the city is regularly laid out, and is well built. Limestone of an excellent quality is abundant in the vicinity, and has been largely used in building, thus giving to the place an appearance of elegance and solidity. The streets are wide, well paved, and shaded with trees. The principal buildings are the State House, built of brick, 143 by 50 feet; the State Arsenal; the New Opera House; and the Athenceum.

The city contains 21 or 22 churches, several public and private schools and colleges, 1 or 2 public libraries, and 4 or 5 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water. It is governed by a Mayor and Common Council. In 1870 the population was 20,031. St. Paul is connected with Chicago and Milwaukee by railway, and also with Duluth at the head of Lake Superior. A line is also in progress north-westward, which is to connect with the Northern 943

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. Pacific Railway. The city lies at the head of steamboat navigation on the Mississippi. About 50 steamers ply between St.

Paul and Dubuque, La Crosse, and St. Louis. The aggregate tonnage of St.

Paul for 1867 was 13,308 tons. There are a number of steam sawmills and fiour-mills in the vicinity. St. Paul is growing very rapidly in population and importance. It was visited as early as 1680 by Father Ilennepin. The first actual settlement, however, was made in 1838 by Parraut, a Canadian. Father Gaultier, a Chatholic missionary, built a log chapel on the edge of the bluff, which he called St. Paul’s. This became the name of the settlement. Upon the organization of the Territory of Minnesota in 1849 St. Paul became the capital. It was incorporated as a town in the same year, and as a city ill 1854. MIINNEAPOLIS, Ill Hennepin county, is a flourisling city. It is situated on the right or west bank of the Mississippi, opposite the town of St. Anthony, and at the Falls of St.

Anthony, 7 or 8 miles northwest of St. Paul. It contains the county buildings, about 10 churches, several schools, 4 hotels, and a newspaper office. It is united with the town of St. Anthony by 2 bridges. It contains also several founderies, woollen mills, machine shops, and sawmills. The latter, it is stated, saw about 70,000,000 feet of lumber annually. The river here affords imimc::se waterpower. It is stated that the product of the mills at the Falls of St. Anthlony in 1867 was valued at $4,669,358. In 1870 the population of Minneapolis was 13,066. It is rapidly increasing. It is connected by railway with St. Paul. WINONA, In the county of the same name, is situated on the right or southwestern bank of the Mississippi, 105 miles by land.below St. Paul. It contains the county buildings, about 12 churches, several schools, one of which is a Normal School, and 2 newspaper offices. It is the principal market of a rich and flourishing agricultural country, and is noted for its heavy shipments of grain, being the principal wheat market of the State. It possesses also a considerable trade in lumber. Timber and limestone abound in the county. It is connected by railway with St. Paul, Milwaukee, and Chicago, and has steamboat communication with the towns on the Mississippi. It was first settled in 1851, and in 1857 was chartered as a city. In 1870 the population was 7192. 944

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IOWA. Area…… PoI)ulation in 1860,.. Population in 1870,.. THE State of Iowa is situated between 40~ 30’ and 43~ 30’ N. latitude, and between 90~
and 97~ W. longitude. It is bounded on tile north by Minnesota, on the east by Wisconsin and Illinois, from whicl it is separated by the Mississippi River, on the south by Missouri, ant-l on the west by Nebraska and Dakota Territory. TOPOGRAPHY. The surface of the State is generally a fine rolling prairie. The highest land in the State, Table MAound, is not over 500 feet high. In the northwest there is a rugged region called the “Coteau des Prairies.” The Mississippi River forms the eastern boundary of the State, and receives the waters of the Des Moines (beginning on tile south), Skunk, Iowa, Wapsipinicon, Makoqueta, and Upper Iowa. Davenport, Burlington, and Dubuque are the principal towns on the Mississippi. The Des JIoiies River is the principal stream lying within the State. It rises in the extreme southern part of Minnesota, and flows southeast across Iowa into the Mississippi, at Keokuk, dividing the State almost exactly in half. It is about 450 miles long, and at high water is navigable for light draught steamers for 250 miles. It flows through an undulating country abounding in rich prairies. The Iowa River rises in the northern part of the State, in Hancock county, and flows southeast into the Mississippi. It is about 300 miles long, and is navigable to Iowa city, 80 miles, at high water. Its principal branch is the Red Cedar River, which rises in the southern part of 60 945 55,045 Square Mliles. 674,913 1,191,725 *…..

…… *…..

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Minnesota, and flows southeast into it about 25 or 30
miles from its mouth. It is about 300 miles long, and is a fine mill stream. The l~issotri River forms the western l)oundary from Sioux City to the Missouri line, and receives the waters of the Big and Little Sioux and several smaller streams. The principal towns on the Missouri are Sioux City and Council Bluffs. A number of the tributaries of the Missouri rise in the southern counties, and flow southward into the State of Missouri.

Several small lakes lie in the Northern counties, the principal of which is Spirit Lake, in Dickinson county. MINERALS. The coal beds of this State are immense, and are said to underlie an area of 20,000 square miles. In some places they are more than 100 feet thick, and as they lie near the surface can be worked at a slight expense. “The lead mines of the northeast, of which Dubuque is the centre, are continuous of those in Wisconsin, and are being extensively and profitably worked. Zinc occurs in the fissures along with the lead, and copper is also found in this region and along the Cedar River. Iron ore exists in considerable quantities, but is not much worked. Many portions of the State are underlaid with limestone, and building stone of several varieties exists, the Annamosa quarries, of Jones county, ranking among the best in the State. Gypsum also appears in limited quantities, and peat abounds in a number of counties, one bed in Sac county containing over 300 acres, from 3 to 9
feet in thickness.” CLIMATE. The climate is mnilder than that of Minnesota and Wisconsin. The “Hand-Book of Iowa” thus speaks of it: “Our spring usually commences in March, and by the middle of April the prairies are green, with mild, beautiful weather. In May, all the face ofnature is covered with flowers, and the foliage of the prairies bends before the breeze like the waves of an enchanted lake, whilst the whole atmosphere is scented with the breath of flowers. At all seasons of the year, a gentle breeze is fanning the prairies, and a day is never so sultry but that a cooling breath comes to moderate the melting temperature. The evening twilights are beautifil, in most seasons of the year, continuing nearly two hours after sunset. Ten months in the year our roads are hard, smooth and dry. In autumn, the weather, with little exception, is usually pleasant and fine until near December. Winter brings us 946

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I LL O _____~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I _L o ~ A It E ST () N’I’ I I, 1 A I’ It11’, IS.

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I

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IOWA. very little snow, some years not amounting to more than six or eight inches altogether; the weather through the winter being mostly made lup of cool, sunshiny days and clear frosty nights. High, dry, salubrious, and rolling, with most excellent water and a bracing atmnosphere, consumption was never known to seize a victim here. On the streams the ague and fever sometimes intrudes, with fevers, occasionally, of other types; but, as the country becomes settled and cultivated, these disappear and are unknown.”

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil is generally fertile and easily cultivated.

In this respect, Iowa is one of the most desirable States in the Union.

“Corn, wheat, oats, and hay, are the great staples of Iowa, being grown to a greater or less extent in every county in the State, with the addition of rye, barley, buckwheat, tobacco, etc., in limited quantities. The corn crop of 1866 reached over 52,000,000 of bushels, with an acreage of upwards of 1,600,000, the crop being valued at about $23,000,000, or an average of between $14 and $15 per acre gross. The wheat crop of the same year reached nearly 16,000,000 bushels upon something less than 1,000,000
acres, the crop being estimated at about $22,000,000, or an average of about $22 to the acre, gross product. The wheat crop is the principal market product, other crops being largely worked up at home and sent abroad in more condensed form, as beef, pork, wool, etc.” In 1869, there were over 4,000,000 acres of improved land in the State. In the same year the principal returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,…. ” Indian corn,.. oats……. Irish potatoes,. ” rye,…. ” buckwheat,.. Tons of hay,……. Pounds of butter,…. Number of horses,…. ” mules and asses, ” milch cows,.. sheep,.. ” swine,.. ” cattle,…. Value of domestic animals,. Pounds of wool (estimated), Agricultural Report (U. S.) for 1868. 947 . 25,000,000 . 78,500,000. .I19,000,000 . 4,500’ 000 540,000 . -

160,000 . 1,650,000 . 11,953,666 199,580 6,244 201,740 . 1,001,180 .

1,001,200 301,960 . $20,476,293 . 2,000,000

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES. Iowa has no foreign commerce, but possesses a brisk trade along the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, and with St. Louis and Chicago. Manufactures are yet in their infancy. In 1860, the capital invested in them amounted to $7,247,130.

They yielded an annual product of $13,971,325. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868 there were 1154 miles of completed railroads in Iowa, constructed at a cost of $45,480,000. The principal towns are connected with each other, and with all parts of the Union. The great lines connecting with the Pacific railway, terminate at Council Bluffs in this State, which lies opposite Omaha, in Nebraska. The conformation of the surface of the State renders the construction of railroads cheap and easy. The State is showing an energy in extending and perfecting her railroad system which must greatly add to her wealth and population. EDUCATION. The State Untiversity, at Iowa City, is a flourishing institution, and has an endowment of nearly $200,000. It has a Normal department, which has produced many excellent teachers, but efforts are being made for the establishment of separate normal schools. Besides this University, there are 4 universities, and 7 colleges in the State, all doing well. The State has an Agricultural College, which is said to be one of the best and most flourishing institutions of its kind in the Union. The educational system is under the supervision of a State Superintendent of Public Instruction.

The counties have each a separate Superintendent, and the districts have their own Boards of Directors, who have the immediate charge of the schools. The annual expenditures for the support of the schools now exceeds $2,000,000. There is a permanent school fund, and taxes are levied for the benefit of the schools. In 1867, there were 6229 public schools in the State, attended by 257,281 pupils. Besides these there are over fifty seminaries and academies, and a numnber of private schools in the State, from which we have no recent returns. In 1860, there were 530 libraries in the State, containing 107,104 volumes. 948

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IOWA. In the same year, there were 129 newspapers and periodicals (9 of which were daily) published in the State, their total annual circulation was 6,589,360 copies. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The Penitentiary is located at Fort Madison, and in 1867 contained 160 convicts. The labor of the prisoners is let out to contractors, and the institution is almost self-sustaining. The commutation system has been successfully introduced, and great care is taken to reform as well as punish the inmates. The Deaf a)gd Dumb Asylun, is at Iowa City, but will soon be removed to Council Bluffs, and provided with more extensive facilities. In 1867, it contained 75 pupils, about one-fifth of the whole number of deaf mnutes ill the State. The Institution for the Blind is at Vinton, and contains about 50
pupils. It is free to all blind persons residing in Iowa, and pupils are taken from other States at moderate rates. The Hospitalfor Insane, is at Mount Pleasant, and is a flourishing institution. Additional accommodations are needed. In 1867, it contained 344 inmates. The State makes an appropriation for the support of Honmes for Soldiers’ Orphans at Davenport, Cedar Falls, and Glenwood. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 949 churches in Iowa. The value of church property was $1,670,190. FINANCES. The State debt amounted in 1868 to a little over $300,000, and was contracted principally on account of the late war. It is fully secured. At the close of the fiscal year, in 1869, there was a balance of $303,198 in the State Treasury. In 1868 there were 44 National banks, with a capital of $4,057,000, doing business in the State.

GOVERNMENT. Every male citizen of the United States, who has resided in the State six months, and in the county sixty days, except persons in the military or naval service of the Union, idiots, insane persons, or 949

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. convicts, is entitled to vote at the elections.

Negroes were admitted to the franchise in 1868. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate and a House of Representatives. The State officers are elected for two years, the Senators for four years, one half retiring biennially, and the Representatives for two years. The sessions of the Legislature are biennial. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, District Court, and such other inferior courts as may be established by the Legislature.

These last consist of 28 Circuit Courts established by the Legislature in 1868. The Supreme Court consists of four judges elected by the people for six years. The judge having the shortest term to serve is the Chief Justice. All judges in this State are elected. The seat of Government is established at Des Moines. The State is divided into 99 counties. HISTORY.

This State derives its name from the tribe of Iowa Indians who inhabited a large portion of it. It was originally a part of Louisiana, and was included in the territory purchased from France by the United States in 1803. The first white settlement was made by Jlllien Dubuque, an Indian trader, who founded the city which bears his name. He married an Indian woman and became a famous chief among the savages, and as early as 1800, commenced to work the lead mines with the natives. In 1830, a severe war broke out between the various Indian tribes. The Sacs and Foxes, who inhabited the mining region, were driven away by the Sioux. Later in the same year a number of miners came out to the lead mines which had been abandoned by the Indians, and commenced to work thenm. They were driven away by Captain Zachary Taylor, then commanding the United States forces at Prairie du Chien, in Wisconsin. He stationed a force of soldiers at Dubuque, and held possession of it until 1832, when theBlack Hawk War began. After the war was over the miners went back to Dubuque. Upon the return of peace, the Sacs and Foxes were compelled to cede a portion of their lands to the United States, as indemnity for the expenses of the war. This tract extended nearly 300 miles north of Missouri, and was about 50 miles wide. It is usually known as the “Black Hawk Purchase.” Other lands were purchased from 950

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IOWA. the Indians for $1,000,000, and the present limits of Iowa cleared of Indian titles. The first white settlement in these purchases was made at Fort Madison (in the present county of Lee), late in 1832, and, in 1835, the town was regularly laid off. In 1833, Burlington was founded, and Dubuque received a large addition to its population. In 1835, a number of Quakers emigrated to the territory, and settled the town of Salem.

Other settlements sprang up rapidly in various parts of the new country, and, in 1836, the population of the District of Iowa numbered 10,531
souls. The District of Iowa, which included nearly all the settlements west of the Mississippi for about 100 miles north of the Des Moines River, was attached to the District of Wisconsin, then a part of Michigan Territory, for convenience of government. In 1838, the Territory of Iowa was formally organized by Congress, and given a separate Government. The population at this time numbered 22,860 souls. A heavy emigration now set in from New England and New York, and from Europe, and, in 1840, Iowa Territory contained, according to the Sixth Census of the United States, 43,114 inhabitants. “Such had been the increase of emigration, previous to 1843, that the Legislature of Iowa made formal application for authority to adopt a State Constitution. At the following session of Congress, an Act was passed to’enable the people of the Iowa Territory to form a State Government.’ A Convention assembled in September, and on the 7th of October, 1844, adopted a Constitution for the proposed’ State of Iowa;’ it being the fourth State organized within the limits of the province of Louisiana. By the year 1844, the population of Iowa had increased to 81,921 persons; yet the people were subjected to disappointrnent in the contemplated change of government. The Constitution adopted by the Convention evinced the progress of republican feeling, and the strong democratic tendency so proiminent in all the new States. The Constitution for Iowa extended the right of suffrage to every free white male citizen of the United States who had resided six months in the State, and one month in the county, previous to his application for the right of voting.

The judiciary were all to be elected by the people for a term of four years, and all other officers, both civil and military, were to be elected by the people at stated periods. Chartered monopolies were not tolerated, and no act of incorpl)oration was permitted to remain in force more than twenty years, unless it were designed for public improvements or literary purposes; and the 951

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. personal as well as the real estate of the members of all corporations was liable for the debts of the same. The Legislature was prohibited from creating any debt in the name of the State exceeding $100,000, unless it were for defence in case of war, invasion, or insurrection; and in such case, the bill creating the debt should, at the same time, provide the ways and means for its redemption. Such were some of the prominent features of the first Constitution adopted for the State of Iowa. Yet the State was not finally organized under this Constitu tion, and the people of Iowa remained under the territorial form of government until the close of the year 1846. “The Constitution of Iowa having been approved by Congress, an Act was passed March 3, 1845, for the admission of the’State of Iowa’ into the Federal Union simultaneously with the’State of Florida,’ upon the condition that the people of Iowa, at a subsequent general election, assent to the restricted limits imposed by Congress, in order to conform with the general area of other western States; but the people of Iowa refused to ratify the restricted limits prescribed for the new State, a majority of nearly 2000 in the popular vote having rejected the terms of admission. Hence, Iowa remained under the territorial government until the beginning of 1846, when the people, through their Legislature, acquiesced in the prescribed limits, and Congress authorized the formation of another Constitution, preparatory to the admission of Iowa into the Union. “The people of Iowa, in 1846, assented to the restriction of limits, and the formation of a territorial government over the remaining waste territory lying north and west of the limits prescribed by Congress. Petitions, with numerous signatures, demanded the proposed restriction by the organization of a separate Territory, to be designated and known as the’I Dacotah Territory,’ comprising the Indian territory beyond the organized settlements of Iowa. Congress accordingly authorized a second Convention for the adoption of another State Constitution, and this Convention assembled in May, 1846, and adopted another Constitution, which was submitted to Congress in June following.

In August, 1846, the State of Iowa was formally admitted into the Union, and the first State election was, by the proclamation of Governor Clarke, to be held on the 26th day of October following. In the ensuing December, the first State Legislature met at Iowa City.” M{onette. 952

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IOWA. During the Rebellion Iowa contributed 75,860 men to the military service of the United States. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns are, Dubuque, Davenport, Burlington, Keokuk, Muscatine, Council Bluffs, Iowa City, and Fort Madison. DES MOINES, In Polk county, is the capital of the State. It is situated at the confluence of the Des Moines and Raccoon Rivers, at the head of steamboat navigation on the Des Moines. It is 175 miles west of Davenport, and 140 miles east of Council Bluffs. It lies in the exact geographical centre of the State, and in the midst of a smooth valley, rising on all sides, by successive benches, balck to the gently sloping hills, whichl finally attain a height of about 200 feet. The scenery in the vicinity is very beautiful. The city is laid off with wide streets, and is being well built. The State capitol is at present a plain structure, situated on a commanding eminence. It is desi,gned to replace it at an early day by a building worthy of the State.

The city already contains 11 churches, several flourishing public and private schools, and 3 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. It has railway communication with the important towns of the State. Steamers ascend the Des Moines from the Mississippi to this point. The city contains several founderies, and machine shops. The river filrnishes abundant waterpower, and stone coal is found in the vicinity. In 1870, the population was 12,035. Des Moines was originally the council ground of the Indians. It was afterwards the site of Fort Des Moines, selected by the officers of the United States army. It was for a long time known as Fort Des Moines. In 1855 the State capital was transferred to this place from Iowa City. DAVENPORT, In Scott county, is the largest and most important city in the State. It is beautifully situated on the right bank of the Mississippi at the foot of Upper Rapids, 330 miles above St. Louis, 184 miles westby-south of Chicago, and 175 miles east of Des Moines. The city lies at the base of a bluff, which rises gradually from the river. It 953

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. DAVENPORT. is connected with the town of Rock Island, in Illinois, on the opposite side of the river, by a handsome bridge. The city is regularly laid out, and is well built, brick and stone entering largely into the construction of its houses. It contains the county buildings, about 13 churches, a high school, and several good public and private schools, and 3 newspaper offices. G2riswold Colleye, a flourishing institution, is located here. The city is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 20,042.

N1early onehalf of the inhabitants are Germans. There is railway communication with all parts of the country, and the city conducts an active trade along the river. Manufactures are carried on to a considerable extent. Cotton and woollen cloth, of an excellent quality, are made here. Stone coal is found in great quantities in the neghborhood, and, as a consequence, the rnills are worked chiefly by steam-power. The rapids of the Mississippi extend for about 20 miles above the city, and during the season of low water seriously interfere with the navigation of the river. Davenport was first settled in 1837, and derives its name from Colonel George Davenport, who was born in England, in 1783. He came to America at an early age, entered the United States army, as a sergeant, and did good service on the frontier in the war of 1812. At the return of peace, he settled on Rock Island, opposite the pre 954

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IOWA. DUBUQUE. sent city of Davenport, from which he carried on a trade in furs with the Indians. He was killed by a band of robbers, who were engaged in plundering his house, on the 4th of July, 1845. DUBUQUE, The second city of the State, is situated in the county of the same name, on the right bank of the Mississippi, 450 miles above St. Louis. The city is one of the most beautiful and attractive in the West. It is built partly upon a terrace, which extends several miles along the river, and partly upon a bluff, which rises 200 feet higher. The lower part of the city is laid out with great regularity; but the portion upon the bluff is made to conform to the irregularities of the surface. The city is substantially built, and contains many handsome edifices. The principal public buildings are the Uhited States Custom House, the City HIall, and the Market House.

Many of the business houses are handsomely built, and sonie of the residences are noted for their elegance, while, as a rule, all are neat and tasteful. The scenery in the vicinity is very beautiful, the country being occupied with highly cultivated farms, orchards and vineyards. The city contains about ]8 churches, 3 free schools, and several private schools, and 5 newspapers, 3 of which are German. The Dubttque Female College, Alexander College (Presbyterian), and the Epis 955

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. BURLINGTON. copal Seminary are flourishing institutions. The city is lighted with gas, is supplied with water, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 18,404. Many of the inhabitants are Germans. Dubuque is engaged in a large river trade, and is the shipping point for an extensive grain-growinig section. It is connected with St. Paul and St. LIouis by regular lines of packets. It is also the great depot for the lead mining region west of the Mississippi.

Some of the best mines in the State are either within the corporate limits, or in the immediate vicinity. The annual shipment of lead from Dubuque is in the neighborhood of 10,000,000 pounds. There is railway communication with all parts of the Union. In 1788, Julien Dubuque, a French trader, built a trading house at this place; but his colony was driven away by the Indians. He instructed the Inidians in the manner of working the leal mines. In 1833, the actual permanent settlement of the place began, and, in 1847, it was incorporated as a city. It is one of the most enterprising and prosperous towns in the West, and is growing rapidly. BURLINGTON, In Des Moines county, is the third city of the State.

It is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi River, 45 miles above Keokuk, 248 miles above St. Louis, and 210 miles southwest of Chicago. It is regularly laid out, and beautifully situated. Part of the city is built on the bluffs, which rise, in some places, 200 feet above the river. 956

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iOWA. From these heights a magnificent prospect of the broad, clear river, and the beautiful country along its shores, is obtained. The city is well built, the larger number of the houses being of brick or stone. It contains the county buildings, about 13 or 14 churches, several ex, cellent schools, public and private, and several newspaper offices. It is the seat of the Burlington University, conducted by the Baptist Church. It is also actively engaged in manufactures. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 15,769. There is railway communication with Chicago, and all the important points of the State. The river trade is valuable, and is increasing. The country, for sixty miles around Burlington, is sometimes called “the garden of Iowa,”

and of this fertile region Burlington is the principal market. Burlington was the home of the famous Indian chief Black Hawk, whose bones lie buried here. It was first settled by the whites in 1833. It was named after Burlington in Vermont, by John Gray, a native of that place, and one of the settlers. In 1836, it was made the capital of Wisconsin Territory. In 1838, when the Territory of Iowa was organized, the seat of government was located at Burlington. In 1839, the capital was removed to Iowa City.

KEOKUK, in Lee county, is the fourth city of the State. It is situated on the right or western bank of the Mississippi River, at the foot of the Lower Rapids, and just above the mouth of the Des Moines River. Fromi its position in the southeast corner of the State, and its proximity to the great rivers of the State, it has been termed the “Gate City” of Iowa. It is 205 miles above St. Louis, and 136 miles below Davenport. The city is built on the summit and slopes of a.large limestone bluff, around which the river sweeps with a broad curve. The limestone is extensively used in building. The city is regularly laid of, with broad, straight streets, and is substantially built. It contains the county buildings, 10 or 12
churches, the Medical Department of the State University, several public and private schools, and 4 newspaper offices. It is, to a limited extent, engaged in manufactures, flour, iron, and beer being the principal articles. Pork packing is also carried on. The river furnishes excellent waterpower. The city is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 12,769. 957

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Keokuk is connected by railway with the principal points of the State and Union. It conducts a large trade along the Des Moines and Mississippi rivers. The Lower Rapids of the Mississippi begin here. They are 12 miles in extent. During this distance, the river falls 2421 feet over a rocky bed of limestone, making it difficult for large steamers to pass the rapids. In consequence of this, the cargoes of the larger boats are transferred at Keokuk to other conveyances, and thus a large business is thrown into the hands of the city. The city derives its name from Keokuk (the Watchful Fox), the famous Sac chieftain, who was distinguished for his friendship for the whites during the Black Hawk War.

He was one of the most reniarkable Indians mentioned in our history. The town was laid out in 1837. Ten years later, it had a population of 620
inhabitants. After the year 1849, however, a change for the better took place, and Keokuk began to grow with great rapidity. MISCELLANY.

FRON‘1’IER JUSTICE. In the year 1836, was organized a band of horse-thieves, counterfeiters, and highway robbers, having their headquarters near Elk Heart, Michigan, and extending their ramifications in all directions from that point many hundred miles. The Rock River Valley, Illinois, and the settled portions of what is now Iowa, were the chief points of their operations, although the band extended through Kentucky, Missouri, and even to the Cherokee Nation. Their organization was complete. They had their passwords, and other means of recognition. No great master spirit controlled the whole organization, as is usually the case in criminal associations of that nature. The leaders were those whose education rendered them superior to the instincts of the half savage settlers with whom they were associated. Their method of doing business, and escaping detection, was as follows: B.’ s band, in Iowa, would “spot”

certain horses and other “plunder,” and arrange to make a foray on some particular night. A., in Missouri, having obtained the knowledge of this, would start his band on a marauding expedition the same night. But those who were to do the plundering would make a feint to go north or south on a trading expedition, a day or two before the time fixed upon, and, returning at night, would be carefully concealed until the proper time, when they would sally forth on the expedition in earnest. The two bands then meeting half way, would exchange the stolen property, and returning, dispose of the plunder, perhaps to the very persons whom they had robbed a few nights before. Those of the band who were merely accomplices, were careful to be visiting some honest neighbor on the night of the robbery, and thus avert suspicion from themselves. By this means, it will be seen that detection was almost impossible, and suspicion unlikely to rest upon the real perpetrators. The then frontier village of Bellevue was a central point on this route, and 958

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IOWA. also the headquarters of one of the most numerous and powerful of the bands. Its leader, William Brown, was a man remarkable in many respects. He came to Bellevue in the spring of 1836, and soon after brought out his family and opened a public house, which was destined to become famous in the village history. Brown, physically, was a powerful man, and in education superior to those around him. He possessed a pleasant, kindly address, and was scrupulously honest in his every day’s dealings with his neighbors. It is said that none who reposed confidence in him in a business transaction ever regretted it. Hle was ably seconded by his wife, a woman of about 24 years of age, and of more than ordinary natural capacity. They had but one child, a little girl of some 4 years of age. Ever ready to assist the destitute, the foremost in public improvements, this family soon became idolized by the rude population of that early day, so that nothing but positive proof finally fastened suspicions of dishonesty upon them. Having, by his wiles, seduced a larger part of the young men into his band, and being daily reinforced from other quarters, Brown became more bold in his operations, then threw off the mask, and openly boasted of his power and the inability of the authorities to crush him out. It was no idle boast. Fully twothirds of the able bodied men in the settlement were leagued with him. He never participated in passing counterfeit money, stealing horses, etc., but simply planned. Any man who incurred the enmity of the “gang,” was very certain to wake some morning and find his crops destroyed, his horses stolen, and the marks of his cattle having been slaughtered in his own yard; in all probability the hindquarters of his favorite ox would be offered for sale at his own door a few hours thereafter. If one of his gang was arrested, Brown stood ready to defend him, with an argument not now always attainable by the legal profession-he could, at a moment’s notice, prove an alibi. Thus matters went on, until it became apparent to the honest portion of the community that the crisis had arrived. As an instance of the boldness which they evinced, now the band had become so powerful, we give an incident of the stealing of a plow from a steamboat. In the spring of 1839, a steamboat landed at Bellevue to wood; the boat was crowded with passengers, and the hurricane deck covered with plows. It being a pleasant day, the citizens, old and young, according to custom, had sallied forth to the river-side, as the landing of a steamboat was then by no means a daily occurrence. The writer of this, standing near Brown, heard him remark to a man named Hlapgood, and in the presence of numerous citizens, “that as he (Hapgood) had long wanted to join Brown’s party, if lie would steal one of those plows, and thus prove his qualifications, hlie should be admitted to full fellowship.” Hapgood agr,eed to make the trial, and thereupon, to our surprise, as we had supposed the conversation to be merely in jest, he went upon the hurricane deck, and, in the presence of the captain, passengers, and citizens on shore, shouldered a plow and marched off the boat and up the levee. When on the boat, Hapgood conversed with the captain for a few minutes, and the captain pointed out to him which plow to take. Ini a few moments the boat was gone, and Hapgood boasted of the theft. It was supposed that he had bought the plow and paid the captain for it, but the next day, when the boat returned, there was great and anxious inquiry, by the captain, “for the man that took that plow,” but he had disappeared, and remained out of sight until the boat was gone. About the same time, another bold robbery occurred near Bellevue, the incidents of which so well illustrate the character of these ruffians, that we cannot forbear recounting them. 959

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. One Collins, a farmer, living about 8 miles from town, came in one day and sold Brown a yoke of cattle for $80. Being a poor judge of money, and know ing Brown’s character well, he refused to take anything in payment but specie. On his return home that evening, he placed his money in his chest. About mid night, his house was broken open by two men, upon which he sprang from his bed, but was immediately knocked down.

His wife, coming to his rescue, was also knocked down, and both were threatened with instant death if any more disturbance was made. The robbers then possessed themselves of Collins’ money and watch, and departed. In the morning, he made complaint before a justice of the peace, accusing two men in the employment of Brown with the crime. They were arrested and examined. On the trial, Collins and his wife swore positively to the men, and also identified a watch found with them as the one taken.

In their possession was found $80 in gold, the exact amount stolen. A farmer living near Collins, testified that about 11 o’clock, on the night of the robbery, the accused stopped at his house and inquired the way to Collins’. Here the prosecution closed their evidence, and the defence called three witnesses to the stand, among whom was Fox, afterward noted as the murderer of Colonel Davenport, all of whom swore positively that, on the night of the robbery, they and the accused played cards fiom dark till daylight, in Brown’s house, 8 miles from the scene of the robbery. In the face of the overwhelming testimony adduced by the State, the defendants were discharged. Another laughable instance, displaying the shrewdness and villainy of these fellows, occurred early in the spring of 1838. Godfirey (one of the robbers of Collins) came into town with a fine span of matched horses, with halter ropes around their necks. From the known character of their possessor, the sheriff thought best to take the horses into his custody. Brown’s gang remonstrated against the proceedings, but to no effect. Subsequently a writ of replevin was procured, and the horses demanded the sheriff refused to give them up. A general row ensued. The citizens, being the stronger party at that time, sustained the sheriff, and lie maintained the dignity of his office.

Handbills, describing the horses accurately, were then sent around the county. A few dlays afterward, a stranger appeared in town, anxiously inquiring for the sheriff, and, upon meeting him, he announced his business to be the recovery of a fine span of horses, which had been stolen from him a short time before, and then so accurately described those detained by the sheriff, that the latter informed himn thl)at he then had them in his stable. Upon examining them, the man was gratified to find that they were his; turning to the crowd, hle offered $25 to any one who would produce Godfrey, remarking, that if hle met him, he would wreak his vengeance upon himi in a summary manner, without thl intervention of a jury. Godfrey was not, however, to be found, and the horses were delivered to the stranger. Imagine the consternation of the sheriff, when, two days later, the true owner of the horses appeared in search of them. The other was an accomplice of Godfrey, and they had taken that method of securing their booty. Similar incidents could be detailed to fill pages, for they were of continual occurrence. On the 20thl of 3Iarch, 1840, the citizens of Bellevue, not implicated in the plans of the horse-thieves and counterfeiters, held a meeting to consider the wrongs of the community.

But one opinion was advanced, that the depredators must leave the place, or summary vengeance would be inflicted upon them all. It was resolved that a warrant should be procured for the arrest of the whole 960

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IOWA. gang, from Justice Watkins-father of our present sheriff-and, upon a certain day, the sheriff, accompanied by all the honest citizens as a posse, should proceed to serve the same. The warrant was issued upon the affidavit of Anson Harring ton, Esq., one of our most respectable citizens, charging about half the inhabitants of the town-Brown’s men-withl the commission of crimes. A-posse of 80 men was selected by the sheriff from among the best citizens of thle county, who met in Bellevue on the 1st day of April, 1840, at 10 o’clock, A. M. Brown, in the meantime, had got wind of the proceedings, and had rallied a party of 23
men, whose names were on the warrant, and proceeded to fortify the Bellevue Hotel, and prepare for a vigorous defence. On the sheriff’s arriving in Bellevue with his party, he found a red flag streaming from the hotel, and a portion of Brown’s men marclhing to and fro in front of their fort, armed with rifles, presenting a formidable appearance. A meeting of the citizens was then convened to consult upon the best method of securing, the ends of justice, of which Major Thomas S. Sparks was Chairman. It was resolved that the sheriff should go to Brown’s fort, with two men, and demand their surrender, reading his warrant, and assuring them that they should be protected in their persons and property. It was also resolved, if they did not surrender, to storm the house, and that Colonel Thomas Cox, then a representa tive in the Iowa Legislature, should assist the sheriff in the command of the party selected for this purpose.

The sheriff then went to the hotel, accompanied by Messrs. Watkins and MIagoon. \lWhen near the house, they were suddenly surrounded by Brown and a party of his men, all fully armed. They captured the sheriff, and ordered Watkins and 3agoon to return and inform the citizens, that at the first attempt to storm the house, they would shoot the sheriff. Being conducted into the house, the sheriff read his warrant, and informed them of the proceedings of the meeting. Just then it was discovered that Colonel Cox, with a party of citizens, was rapidly advancing on the hotel.

Upon the shleriff’s promise to stop them and then return, he was released by Brown. He met the party, and, accosting Cox, requested him to delay the attack one hour, and if hlie (the sheriff) did not return by that time, for them to come on and take the house. Cox was determined the sheriff should not return, saying that he should not keep his word with such a band of ruffians. Better counsels, however, prevailed, and the sheriff went back. On his return, he found that Brown’s men had been drinking freely to keep up their courage. After some parleying, Brown determined not to surrender, commanding the sheriff to return to his men and tell them to come on, and if they succeeded in carrying the hotel,,it should only be over their dead bodies. The sheriff returned and disclosed the result of his interview. Mrs. Brown, in the meantime, and a fellow called Buckskin, paraded the streets with a red flag. The citizens were then addressed by Cox and Watklins, and it was finally determined that a body of 40 men should be selected to mnake the attack, upon which the posse started and charged upon the house at a full run. As our men entered the porch, the garrison commenced firing, but we being so near, they generally overshot their mark. At the first fire, one of oar best men, Mr. Palmer, was killed, and another, Mr. Vaughn, badly wounded. Brown opened the door and put his gun to shoot, when hlie was immediately shot down by one of our men. The battle then became desperate and hand to hand. After considerable hard fighting, the “balance” of the gang commenced their retreat through the back 61 t;i

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. door of the house. They were surrounded and all captured but 3. The result of the fight was, on the part of the counterfeiters, the loss of 5 killed and 2 badly wounded; on the part of the citizens, 4 killed and 11 wounded. The excitement after the fight was intense. Many of the citizens were in favor of putting all the prisoners to death. Other counsels, however, prevailed, and a citizens’ court was organized to try them. During the fight, Captain Harris anchored his boat in the middle of the river, and remained there until the result was known, when the passengers ascended to the upper deck and gave three hearty cheers. Doctors Finley, of Dubuque, and Crossman, of Galena, were sent for, and were soon in attendance on the wounded of both parties. Much joy was manifested by the citizens at the breaking up of one of the most desperate gangs of housebreakers, murderers, and counterfeiters that ever infested the western country. The next morning a vote of the citizens was taken as to the disposal of the prisoners. As the District Court was not to meet for three months, and there being no jail in the county, and in fact none in the Territory that was safe, and surrounded as we were on all sides by offshoots of the same band, who could muster 200 men in a day’s time to rescue them, it was deemed the merest folly to attempt to detain them as prisoners, and it was resolved to execute summary justice upon them. The question was then put, whether to hang or whip them. A cup of red and white beans was first passed around, to be used as ballots, the red for hanging, and the white for whipping. A breathless silence was maintained during the vote. In a few moments the result was announced. It stood fo-ty-two white and thirty-eight red beans. The resolution to whip them was then unanimously adopted. Fox, afterward the murderer of Davenport, and several others made full confessions of many crimes, in which they had been engaged. The whole crowd of prisoners was then taken out, and received from 25 to 75 lashes apiece, upon their bare backs, according to their deserts. They were then put into boats and set adrift on the river, without oars, and under the assurance that a return would insure a speedy death. Animated by the example of Bellevue, the citizens of Rock River, Illinois, Linn, Johnson, and other counties in Iowa, rose en masse, and expelled the gangs of robbers from their midst, with much bloodshed. Thus ended the struggle for supremacy between vice and virtue in Bellevue, which, from this day forth, has been as noted, in the Mississip)i Valley, for the morality of its citizens, as it was once rendered infamous by their crimes. 962

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~ MISSOURI. Are……….65,350 Square Miles. …… 1,182,012 ……

1,721,295 Area,……. Population in 1860,.. Population in 1870,.. THE

State of Missouri is situated between 36~ 30’ and 40~ 36’ N. latitude, and between 89~ 10’ and 96~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Iowa; on the east by Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee; on the south by Arkansas; and on the West by the Indian Territory and Kansas. Its extreme length, from east to west, is 285 miles, and its extreme breadth, from north to south, is 280 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. North of the Missouri River, the surface of the State is principally level. South of that stream it is rolling, and gradually rises into a range of bold highlands known as the Ozark Mountains, which extend through the centre of the State, from northeast to southwest; south of the Osage River, and pass into northwestern Arkansas. Beyond the Osage River, immense prairies stretch away to the setting sun. The extreme southeastern part of the State is occupied by a large swamp, which extends into Arkansas. The Mississippi River forms the eastern boundary of the State, and receives the waters of the Salt, Missouri, and Maramec rivers. The principal places on the Mississippi are Hannibal, St. Louis, Carondelet, Cape Girardeau, and New Madrid. The Uissouri River forms the western boundary of the State to Kansas City. At this point it bends to the east, and flows east-southeast across the State into the Mississippi, above St. Louis. It receives the waters of the Chariton and Grand rivers, on the north, and those of the Osage and Gasconade on the south. The principal 963

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. FLOATING ISLAND ON TIlE MISSOURI RIVER. places on the Missouri are El Paso, St. Joseph’s, Kansas City, Lexington, Booneville, Jefferson City, and St. Charles. The Missouri in imany places is lined with high bluffs, and flows through the State for about 340 miles. The Osaye River rises in the eastern part of the State of Kansas, and flows east-northeast into the Missouri, about 10 miles below Jefferson City. It is about 500 miles long, and is navigable at high water for 200 mniles.

The St. Francis and White rivers drain the southeastern part of the State, and pass into Arkansas. MINERALS. ” Missouri is richly endowed with mineral wealth. The iron region around Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob is unsurpassed in the world for the abundance and purity of its deposits On the Maramec River, and in some other localities, are found small quantities of lead. Copper is found extensively deposited, being most abundant near the La Motte mines. It is also found with nickel, manganese, iron, cobalt, and lead, in combinations, yielding from 30 to 40 per cent.

All these metals, except nickel, exist in considerable quantities; also silver, in combination with lead ore and tin. Limestone, marble, and other eligible building material are abundant, especially north of the 964

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MISSOURI. Missouri. The geological formations of the State are principally those between the upper coal measures and the lower silurian rocks. The drift is spread over a large surface; in the north, vast beds of bituminous coal, including cannel coal, exist on both sides of the Missouri River. When these mineral resources shall receive their proper development, they will immensely enlarge the scope of industrial enterprise.” CLIMATE. “The climate is noted for extremes of temperature.

In the winter, the rivers are often frozen so as to admit the crossing of heavily-loaded vehicles, while in summer it is extremely warm, its enervating effects being prevented by a very dry, pure atmosphere, generally favorable to health and longevity.” SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. “The soil of Missouri is remarkable for its variety and excellence. The most productive portions are the alluvions of thle river-courses, which, though often mixed with sand, are rich in the elements of fertilization. Even in the mountain regions, there are rich valleys, and those tracts reported as inarable are covered with valuable growths of white pine. The marshes of the soutlheast, when properly drained, will constitute the best farming lands of the State. Tile river bottoms are covered with luxuriant growths of oak, elm, ashl, hickory, cottonwood, lindell, and white and black walnut. Thinner soils abound in white and pin oak; and, occasionally, are covered with heavy forests of yellow pine, crab-apples, pawpaws, hazel, and wild grapes of a spontaneous luxuriance.” * In 1869, there were about 8,000,000 acres of improved land in tlhe State. The other returns for the same year were: …………… 7,500,000 Jian n……..0,500,000
so,o-oo,ooo o……………….0,,500,000 Irish
potatoes………~2,000,000 rye……………………..325-,000
ble………………. 300,000 T……………..750,000 Po d obutr……….. 12i, 704,8S37 m o e………. 0…..,(.5-0,040 asses and mnules,. * General Lan(d Office Rep)ort. 965 Bushels of wheat,… 11

Iiidiaii corn,. 4; oats,…. 4 1 Irish potatoes, 1 4 rye,…. barley,…

Tons of hav…… Pouiids of butter,… Number of horses,… 81,450

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. .Numnber of inilch cows,…… sheep,……

swilne,…… ‘ c young cattle,…. Value of domestic animals,… Pounds of tobacco (estimated),. ” wool ” MANUFACTURES AND COMMERCE. Apart from the city of St. Louis, this State is not largely engaged in manufactures.

Ill 1860, the capital invested in them amounted to $20,500,000, and the annual product to $43,500,000. An active trade is conducted by the towns along the Mississippi and Missouri rivers. St. Louis, on the former streamni, is one of the most important commercial cities in the Union. The State has no foreign commerce, its products being shipped from New Orleans and the Atlantic ports, from which also its imports are drawn. INTERNAL

IMPROVEMENTS. In 1868, there were 937 miles of completed railroads in Missouri, constructed at a cost of $.51,358,000. There is railroad communication between St. Louis and the principal towns, and that city is connected by the roads of Illinois with all parts of the Union. A main line extends from St. Louis, across the State into Kansas. EDUCATION.

There are 11 colleges in Missouri, the principal of which is the State University, at Columnbia. It is liberally endowed, and will soon be enlarged by the addition of an Agricultural Department. It has also a Normal Department. There are a separate State Normal College, and a private Normal School in successful operation. The schools of St. Louis are distinct from those of the State, and enjoy a high rank. The educational system of the State is under the control of a Superintendent of Public Schools, who is elected by the people for two years. The State is divided into as many school districts as it has Congressional Districts, each of which is controlled by a Board of Directors. Each district is divided into as many sub-districts as necessity may require, and each sub-district is in charge of a local director. These local directors constitute the Board of Directors for the entire district. Each county is under the supervision of a County Superin 966 ….. 390,120

…… 1,001,890 ….. 2,790,860 ….. 790,112 ……… $58,693,673 …..

20,000,000 ….. 2,000,000

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MISSOURI. tendent, who is elected by the people for two years. The permanent school fund amounted, in 1870, to $1,674,986. In the year 1867, the State expended $1,074,141 for the support of the public schools. In the same year, there were 4840 public schools in the State, attended by 169,270 pupils. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The State Penitentiary is located at Jefferson City, and, in 1870, contained 797 convicts. The labor of the prisoners is let out to contractors. The lissoui-i Institution for the Education of the Blind, at St. Louis, was established in 1851. It is supported, in part, by the State, private donations doing the rest. In 1868, it contained 70 pupils. The Asylurn for the Deaf and Dumb, at Fulton, was closed during the war, but was reopened in 1866. The Iisane Asylum is at Fulton, and is in a flourishing condition. In 1867, it contained about 420 patients. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 1577 churches in Missouri. The value of church property was $4,509,767.

LIBRARIES AND NEWSPAPERS. In 1860, the State contained 310 libraries, with 184,884 volumes. In the same year, there were 173 newspapers and periodicals (16 of which were daily) published in Missouri. Their aggregate annual circulation was 29,741,464 copies. FINANCES. In 1870, the total bonded debt of the State was $17,886,000. The receipts of the Treasury for 15 months ending December 31st, 1870, were $2,847,035, and the expenditures for the same period $10,037,137. In 1868, there were 8

State banks, with a capital of $1,960,300, and 18 National banks, with a capital of $7,810,300, doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. Male citizens of the United States, and male foreigners who have lawfully declared their ilntention to become citizens, not less than 967

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. one year, nor more than five years, before they offer to vote, vlwho have resided in the State one year, and in the county 60
days, are entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 34
members) and a House of Representatives (of 137 members), all elected by the people. The State officers and Representatives are chosen for two years. Senators are elected for four years, onehalf retiring biennially.

The general election is held in November, and the Legislature meets biennially, in Decemlber. The Courts of the State are the Supreme Court (consisting of three judges), Circuit Courts, District Courts, and County Courts. All judges are elected by the people. The seat of Government is located at Jefferson City. The State is divided into 113 counties.

HISTORY. Missouri was originally a French province, and was included in the Louisiana purchase of 1803. It was first visited by Marquette and Joliet in 1(673, during their memorable voyage down the Mississippi. In 1719, Fort Orleans was built at the mouth of the Osage River, not far from the present capital of the State. In 1720, the lead mines were first worked by the French. The town of St. Genevieve was founded in 1755, and St. Louis in 1764. These were speedily followed by other settlements, the whole region forming a part of the Province of Louisiana, which, in 1763, was ceded by France to Spain. The Spaniards were very liberal and politic in their treatment of this part of their new province, and the settlers had no reason to complain of the change. At the time of the Revolution, the population of St. Louis was about 800 souls. In 1780, a force of 1500

Britislh and Indians from the Lakes laid siege to it, and invested it for a weekl, reducing it to great straits, and killing 60 or 70 of the inhabitants. Fortunately, a force of Kentuckians, under General Rogers Clarkle, came to its relief, and drove the enemy away. After the peace of 1783, Spain retained possession of Louisiana, and the east bank of the Mississip)pi became the property of the United States. Settlers from the United States crossed over repeatedly to the Spanish shore, and built their cabins. They were not suffered to re 9(8

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MIISSOURI. main in peace hy the authorities, and this led to a diplomatic correspondeince between Spain and the United States, by which the former granted the free navigation of the Mississippi to the Americans. The Spanish officials onl the river, however, paid no attention to the treaty, and there was every prospect of a serious difficulty between thle two countries when the cession of Louisiana to France by Spain, and its purchase by the United States, removed all danger of hostilities. The new territory was at once divided into two Governments, the Territorv of Orleans, and tlhe District of Louisiana. Soon after this, the Territorv of Orleans was admitted into tlhe Union as the State of Louisilna. The name of the District was at once changed( to Missouri Territory. Emnig,rants came in rapidly, and(, in 1810, the population was 20,8S45. In 1817, it was 60,000. The people of Missouri now applied for admission into the Union as a State. Slavery existed in the Territory, and they were anxious to retain it in the new State. The Free Soil party of the country opposed its admission as a slavehlolding State, and the Southl and( the Democratic party sustained the demand of the Missourians. A severe political struggle, 7which has already been described, at once began, and continued for two years with such violence that it threatened to destroy the Union. It was allayed by a compromise offered by Henry Clay, that AMissouri should be admitted as a slavehlolding State; but that slavery should never exist in the territory north of 36~ 30’!N. latitude. A settlement being effected upon this condition, Missouri was admitted as a State on the 14th of December, 1821. During the excitement in Kansas and Nebraska, the western border of Missouri became the scene of almost constanit hostilities between the Pro-slavTery men and Free Settlers of Kansas. At the outbreak of the Rebellion, an unsuccessfil effort was made to force the State into the Southern Confederacy. It failed through the superior vigilance and promptness of the Union men of the State. The population was divided between the Union and the Confederacy, and thousands of troops entered both armies. The American population was almost a unit in favor of the South, while the foreigners were Union men.

Several severe battles were fought in the State, and many minor encounters occurred within its limits. The State was held by the United States army during the war, and its civil goverinment was almost suspended until after the return of peace. A new Constitution was adopted in 1865, anild amended by the popular vote in 1870. 9 69

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal cities and towns of the State are St. Louis, St. Josephl’s, Hannibal, Lexington, Carondelet, St. Charles, Weston, Booneville, Washington, Brunswick, Columbia, Independence, Liberty, Palmyra, and Springfield.

JEFFERSON CITY, In Cole county, is the capital of the State. It is situated on the right bank of the Missouri River, 155 miles by water above St. Louis, and 980 miles from Washington City. Latitude 38~ 36’ N.; longitude 92~ 8’ W. The situation is picturesque, the city being located on a commuanding bluff; from which an extensive view is obtained. The city is tolerably well built, but, apart from being the capital of the State, has few attractions. The State House is the principal building. It is constructed of stone, and presents a magnificent appearance from the river below the town. The city contains the Governor’s Mansion, the State Penitentiary, several schools, public and private, about 5 churches, and 2
newspaper offices. In 1870 the population was 4420. In 1821, Jefferson City was chosen as the capital of the State, and in 1822 the town was laid out. ST. LOUIS, In the county of the samle name, is the metropolis of the State, the largest city of the Western States, and the fourth city with regard to population in the United States. It is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, 20 miles below the mouth of the Missouri River, 174
miles above tile mouth of the Ohio, 774 miles below the Falls of St.

Anthony, 1194 miles above New Orleans, 856 miles west-by-south of WAVashing,ton, and 128 miles east of Jefferson City. “The site rises from the river by two plateaus of limestone formation; the first 20 and the other 60 feet above the floods of the MAississippi. The ascent to the first plateau, or bottom as it may be termed, is somewhat abrupt; the second rises more gradually, and spreads out into an extensive plain, affording fine views of the city and river. St. Louis extends in all nearly 7 miles by the curve of the Mississippi, and about 3 miles back; the thicklly settled portion, however, is only 2 or 2-miles in length, following the river, and about 121 miles in breadth. The city is well laid out, the streets being for the most part 970

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T ____ ___ \ \\ ~ LA I I I l t, IL0

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MISSOURI. 60 feet wide, and, with few exceptions, intersecting each other at right angles. Front street, extending along the levee, is upwards of 100 feet wide, and built up on the side facing the river, with a range of massive stone warehouses, which make an imposing appearance as the city is approached by water. Front, Main, and Second streets, parallel to each other, and to the river, are the seat of the principal wholesale business.

The latter is occupied with heavy grocery, iron, receiving, and shipping houses. Fourth street, the fashionable promenade, contains the finest retail stores. The streets parallel to Front and Main streets are designated as Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth street, and(l so on; and those on the right and left of Market street extending at right angles with the river, are mostly named from various forest trees, similar to the streets of Philadelphia. Large expenditures have been made from time to time in grading and otherwise improving the streets of St. Louis.” Within the last ten years St. Louis has made a decided improve mnent with respect to its buildings, and is now one of the lhand(somest and most substantially constructed cities in the country. Thle build ings are principally of brick, though marble, iron, and stone structures are numerous. Many of the private residences will compare favorably with anything in the land. As the wealth of the city has increased, the citizens, with a large public spirit, have spared no expense in their efforts to adorn and beautify their noble city. The public buildings are among the finest in the Union.

The City H(tll is a new and splendid structure. The Court House was completed in 1860, and cost over $1,000,000. It is a magnificent edifice, constructed of limestone, and occupies the square bounded by Fourth, Fifth, Chestnut, and Market streets. The front is ornamented with porticoes, and from the centre of the building rises a fine dolme, which, though of smaller proportions, greatly resembles that of the capitol at Washington. The Custom House is a beautiful edifice, built of Missouri marble. It is also used by the United States Courts, and by the City Post Office. It occupies the site of one of the first theatres erected in St.

Louis, and is built upon piles driven more than 20 feet into thie ground.

The Un;ited States Arsenal, in the southeastern part of the city, is a massive structure. The JMIercha,)ts’ Exchange is one of the finest buildings in St. Louis. Some of the churches are conspicuous among the ornaments of the city. There are over 80 church edifices in St. Louis; the most imposing of which are the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Louis; St.

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. COURT IIOUSE, ST. LOUIS. George’s, Episcopal, and the Chttrch of the lMessiahl, Unitarian. The Cathedral tower contains a fine chime of bells. The benevolent and charitable institutions are numerous, and of a highl character. The most prominent are the City Hospital, llMatine Hospitctl (3 miles below the city), the Sisters’ Hospital, the -IoT e for the Friee)lle~s, the House of tReft(ge, thlle Reform School, and 10 Oiphlan Asyltmr,s. Thle institutions conitrolled( by the city are among the best in the country) and those dependent on private contributions are in a flourishing condition. The city of St. Louis has an excellent system of Public Schools, including a Normal School, a High School, 31 District Schools, and 3 colored sel-ools. The annual expenditure for school purposes is about $200,000. The schools are all provided with handsome and coinlfortable tbuildings. ]3Besides these, the city contains a large Inumbl-)er of private schools of every grade. The institutions of the lhigher class are the St. Louis UiSiversity, conducted by the Roman Catholics; the c,,VshiJyIto) Utirersity; Pope’s J7edical Collce; Carcuclin (Clol(e/e, a German institution; the JIissouri Uhiversity; and the Polyt ecnic Institte; the latter of which possesses a lil)rary of over 7000 volumes. There are 5 other public libraries in the city; tlhec best of which is said to be the Mtercantile Library. ,272

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MISSOURI. Tile newspaper press of St. Louis ranks very high. Some of the ablest and most influential journals in the country are published here.

Being the largest city in the West, the influence of the St. Louis press in this section is naturally very great. There are 44 newspapers and periodicals published here. Nine of these are daily, 17 weelkly, 3
semi-monthly, 12 monthly, 1 bi-monthly, and 2 quarterly. Each of the dailies issues a weekly edition. Until withlin the last few years, St.

Louis paid but little attention to public parls or squares. Now, however, it is very well provided in this respect. Besides 14 small squares scattered throughout the city, and containing, an aggregate of 119 acres, it possesses the new fozicr Grove Park, 276~- acres in extent, and SUaw’s Garden, 276 acres, said to be ” the Wonder of the West.” The principal buryingground is Bellefontatine Cemetery, about 5 miles from the Court House. It is a beautiful enclosure of about 350 acres, and contains the graves of many of the old settlers of St. Louis. The hotels of St. Louis are noted for their excellence. Tile principal are tile Lindell, Soutthern, Barmelret’s, Everett, and the Plater’s. The Lindell and Soitthei’n rank among the finest hotels in the United States. They are inferior to none in the country in size, magnificence, or the accommodations offered to guests. They are among the principal ornaments of St. Louis. The city is supplied with an excellent system of street railways, connecting its distant points. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water from the Mississippi. The water is pumped by steaml from the river, and forced through a twenty-inch pipe into a large reservoir, located about one mile west of the city. The city is also provided with an efficient police force, a steam fire department, and a police and firealarm telegraph. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 310,864. A very large number of the inhabitants are Germans, or of German origin, and Germanl customs prevail here to a great degree. Eight lines of railway connect St. Louis with all parts of the Union. A bridge is now in construction from the city to the Illinois shore, which will give unbroken communication with the eastern side of the Mississippi. The city is the principal shipping point for almost the entire State of Missouri, and conducts an active trade along the Mississippi, the Missouri, the Ohio, and their tributaries. In 1860, the year before the civil war, the arrivals of steamboats at this port were 4371, with an aggregate tonnage of 1,120,039. The 973

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. civil war almost destroyed the river trade, but since the return of peace it has rapidly recovered, and has regained a very large share of its former prosperity. In 1870, the arrivals of boats, excluding all of less than 500 tons, was 2725. Thile receipts of lumber for thile year were 240, 760,000 feet; the receipts of cattle were 201,248
head; the receipts of grain were 23,908,910 bushels; the receipts of flour were 2,922,630 barrels; the receipts of lead were 234,903 pigs; the receipts of iron ore were 316,000 tons; and the receipts of coal were 23,931,475 tolls. The city is largely engaged in manufactures, and contains miitny of the largest and best establishments in the West. Among these are extensive iron works, flouring mills (which in 1870 produced 1,351,733 barrels of flour), sugar refineries, mnanufactories of hemip, rope and bagging, and tobacco, and oil mills. In 1870 the capital invested in manufactures in the city amounted to $41,761,688, the number of hands employed was 33,551; the amount paid as wages was $15,906,131; raw material was used to the value of $60,541,012; and the total value of articles pro ducedl in these establishments was $131,192,670. The taxable property of the city of St. Louis in 1870, amounted to $275,133,331; real estate $217,355,611, personal property $57,777,720. The position of St.

Louis of necessity makes her a great city. Situated about half way between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and in the geographical centre of one of the most fertile and best cultivated agri cultural regions in the world, “almost at the very focus towards which converge the Mississippi, the Missouri, thle Ohio, and the Illinois rivers,” there seems no limit to the wvealtli and( importance, which the future holds in store for the great metropolis of the southwest. Within a circuit of 90 miles of the city, lie innmense deposits of irolln, lead(, and copper ores, and coal equal to the wants of the entire Mississippi valley for centuries to comle. “Amongi, the many sites which the vast domaiLn of uninhabited territory in the Mississippi valley presented for foiiunding a city, that on wlihel St.

Louis now stands was selected by Laclede, February 15th, 1764, as one possessing peculiar advantages for the fur trade, and for defence against the Indians. The confluence of the different rivers in the immediate neighborhood was a desideratum in the estimation of the trapp)er; it has b)ecome of vast importance to the place in establishing it as a centre for agricultural and manufacturing enterprises. The statistics of these early times show that for 15 successive years, ending in 1804, the average annual value of the fits collected at this port amounted to ~203,750. The number of deer 97‘4

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MISSOURI. skins was 158,000; of beaver, 36,900; of otter, 8000; of bear, 5100; and of buLfflo, 850. The population at this period was between 1500
and 2000, onehalf of whom were absent a great part of each year as trappers and voyageurs. It will readily be perceived that the elements which gave the settlement existence were not of a character adequate to foster it beyond the limits of a frontier village; and accordingly, as late as 1820, we find the accession of population had not swelled the original very materially. Up to this date the census only shows an advance to 4598. Military expeditions and establishments, together with a sparse immigration, confined to those peculiar temperaments which delight in the wild and adventurous, still kept up a p)rogressive improvement, which centering here for personal security as well as for trade, still fixed it as the seat of a commercial and manufacturing metropolis, destined in a few years to become an object of interest throughout the world. On the 11th of August, 1768, a Spanish officer by the name of Rious, with a company of Spanish troops, took possession of St. Louis and Upper Louisiana, as it was termed, in the name of his Catholic majesty, under whose government it remained until its final transfer to the United States, March 26, 1804. In 1813, the first brick house was erected; in 1817, the first steamboat arrived-both important events, but neither of which became frequent until several years after. In 1822, St. Louis was chartered as a city, under the title given by Laclede, in honor of Louis XV. of France. From 1825 to 1830, the influx of population fromn Illinois began to be of importance. From this State the colnmerce of St. Louis received its first great impulse, and from this State it still derives a large portion of its support. With 1829 the keel-boat entirely disappeared. The steamer Yellowstone about this time ascended to the Great Falls, and was succeeded by the Assinab)oine and others. Dry-goods houses were already established, and these sent out retail brarriches to Sp)ringfiel(l, and other places in Illinois. Extensive warehouses began to be erected, some of which are still standing, having survived the great fire. They rose from their solid limestone foundations, built on a scale which shows that the impressions of the present were vividly portrayed to the mind(s of the people of that day.” Since 1830 the city hais grown with markled ra)pidlity. In that year the population was 6694; in 1840 it was 16,469; in 1850 it was 7 7,850; in 1860 it was 160,773, and( in 1870, 310,864. e Lippincott’s Gazetteer.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-__.

Lippincott’s Gazetteer. 975

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. KANSAS CITY, The second city of the State, is situated in Jackson county, on the right or southern bank of the MIissouri, just below the mouth of the Kansas River, 160 miles west-by-north of Jefferson City. The Missouri River separates it from the State of Kansas. It contains the county buildings, about 10 or 12 churches, and 7 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. The city is actively engaged in manufactures, and in coimmerce. It conducts a heavy trade along the Upper Missouri, and with the Rocky Mountain settlements. It is the western terminus of the Pacific Railway of MAissouri, and the eastern terminus of the Kansas Pacific Railway. It is also the western ternlinus of the Hannibal and St. Josephl-, and the ~North Missouri Railways. These roads, all of which have been completed within the last eight years, have built up the city with wonderful rapi(lity. The city was incorporalted in 1853; in 1860 the population was 4418, and in 1870 it was 32,260. ST.

JOSEPIH, The tlhird city of thile State, is situated in Buchanan county, on the left or eastern bank of the MAissouLri River, 340 miles above Jefferson City, and 496 miles above St. Louis. The city is located on broken and uneven ground, called the Black Snake Hills, and is surrounded by a rich and beautifull country. It is well built, and contains the county buildings, some 10 or 1 1 churches, 8 newspaper offices, several large mnanufactories, several pork houses, and several banks. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 14,957. St. Joseph is, next to Kansas City, the most important city in Western Missouri. Until within a fewv years past, it was the principal point of departure for the trains of emigrants across the plains. The railways have taken away much of the business thus brought to the city, but it continues to maintain an active trade with the plains and tile Rocky Mountain settlements, and alonDI the Upper Missouri. Previous to the completion of the Pacific Railway across the Continent, it was the point from whichil the United States Mails, the Pony Express, and the Pike’s Peak Express were sent westward. It is connected by railway with Hannibhal, on the Mississippl)i, immediately across the State, also with Council Blnts, and with all the principal towns of A Missouri, Kansas, an(] Nebraskla. Several railways are in 976

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MISSOURI. ST. JOSEPH. progress of construction fionom St. Joseph to other points. These roads are adding rapidly to the wealth and importance of the city. St. Joseph was laid out in 1843. The first settlers were principally fromn Indiana, Kentucky, and Ohio. MISCELLIANY. MISSOURI Di)URING THE WAR

OF 1812-15.. Colonel John Slhawv is the author of the following reminiscences: The Upper LMississippi Indians, of all tribes, commenced depredations on the frontiers of Missouri and Illinois in 1811, and early in 1812. Several persons were killed in different quarters. About 30 miles above the mouth of Salt River, and fully 100 above the mouth of the Missouri, wvas Gilbert’s Lick, on the western bank of the MIississippi, a place of noted resort for animals and cattle to lick the brackish water; and where a mlan named Samuel Gilbert, from Virginia, had settled two or three years prior to the spring of 1812. In that region, and particularly below him, were a number of other settlers. About the latter part of MAay, 1812, a party of from 12 to 15 Upper Mississippi Indians descended the river in canoes, and fell upon the scattered cabins of this upper settlement in the night, and killed a dozen or more people. This massacre in the Gilbert’s Lick settlement caused great consternationi along the MIissouri frontier, and the people, as a matter of precaution, commienced fortifying. Some seven or eight forts or stockades were erected, to which a portion of the inhabitants resorted, while many others held themselves in readiness to flee there for safety, in case it might be thought necessary. I remember tlhe names of Stout’s Fort, Woold’s Fort, a small stockade at what is now Clarksville, Fort Howard, and a fort at Ivowell’s settlement-the latter nearest to Colonel Daniel Boone; but the people bordering immediately on the 62 91I

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. Mlissouri River, being less exposed to danger, did not so early resort to the erec tion ot stockades. About this time, probably a little after, while I was engaged with 18 or 20 men in buillding a teml)orary stockade where Clarklsville now stands, on the western bank of the MIississippl)i, a party of Indians came and killed the entire family of one O’Neil, about 3 miles above Clarksville, while O’Neil himself was employed with his nei,lghbors in erecting the stockade. In companly with O’Neil and others, I hastened to the scene of murder, and found all killed, scalped, and horribly mangled. One of the children, about a year and a half old, was found literally baked in a larg,e pot-metal bake-kettle, or Dutch oven, with a cover on; and as there were no marks of the iknife or tomahawk on the body, the child must have been put in alive to suffer this horrible death; the oil or fat in the bottom of the kettle was nearly two inches deep. I went to St. Louis, in company with Ira Cottle, to see Governor Clark, and ascertain whether war had l)been actually declared. This must have been some time in June, but the news of the declaration of war against Great Britain had not yet reached there. Onl our return, I was strongly urged by the people to act as a spy or scout o01 the firontier, as I was possessed of great bodily activity, and it was well known that I had seen much w-oods experience. I consented to act in this capacity onl the frontiers of St. Charles county, never thinking or troubling myself about any pecuniary recompense, and was only anxious to render the distressed people a useful service. I immediately entered alone upon this duty, sometimes mounted, and sometimes on foot, and carefully watchling the river above the settlements, to discover whether any Indianls had landed, and somnetimes to follow their trails, learn their destination, and report to the settlements. Upon my advice, several of the weaker stockades were abandoned, for 20 or 30 miles around, and concentrated at a place near the mouth of Cuivi’e or Copper River, at or near the present village of Monlroe; and there a large number of us, perhaps some 60 or 70 persons, were some two or three weeks employed in the erection of a fort. We named it in hlonor of the patriotic Governor, Benjamin Howard, and between 20 and 30 families were soon safely lodged in Fort howard. The fort was an ol)long, square, north and southl, and embraced about half an acre, with block houses at all the corners except the southeast one. As the war had now fairly commenced, an Act of Congress authorized the raising of six companies of Rangers; three to be raised onl the Missouri side of the AMississippi, and tlhe othler three on the Illinois side. The Missouri companies were commanded by Daniel MA. Boone, Nathan Boone, and David MIusick. The commission of -Nathlan Boone was dated in June, 1812, to serve a year, as were doubtless the others. The Indians, supplied by their British employers with new rifles, seemed bent on extermiinating the Americans-always, however, excepting the French and Spaniards, who, from their Indian intermarriages, were regarded as friends and connections. Their constant attacks and murders led to offensive measures. Of the famous Sink Hole battle, fought on the 24thl of May, 1814, near Fort Howard, I shall be able to give a full account, as I wvas present and participated in it. Captain Peter Craig commanded at Fort Howard; he resided witlh his father-in-law, Andrew Ramsey, at Cape Girardeau, and did not exceed 30 years of age. Drakeford Gray was 1st Lieutenant. Wilson Able, the 2d, and Edward Spears, 3d Lieutenant. 978

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MISSOURI. About noon, 5 of the men went out of the fort to Byrne’s deserted house, on the bluff, about a quarter of a mile below the fort, to bring in a grindstone. In consequence of back water from the Mississippi, they went in a canoe; and on their return were fired on by a party supposed to be 50 Indians, who were under shelter of some brush that grew along at the foot of the bluff, near Byrne’s house, and about 15 rods distant from the canoe at the time. Three of the whites were killed, and one mortally wounded; and as the back water, where the canoe was, was only about knee deep, the Indians ran out and tomahawked their victims. The people in the fort ran out as quick as possible, and fired across the back water at the Indians, hut as they were nearly a quarter of a mile off, it was of course without effect. Captain Craig, with a party of some 25 men, hastened in pursuit of the Indians, and ran across a point of the back water, a few inches deep; while another party, of whom I was one, of about 25, ran to the right of the water, with a view of intercepting the Indians, who seemed to be making toward the bluff, or high plain, west and northwest of the fort. The party with which I had started and Captain Craig’s soon united. Immediately on the bluff was the cultivated field and deserted residence of Benjamin Allen, the field about 40 rods across, beyond which was pretty thick timber. Here the Indians made a stand, and here the fight commenced. Both parties treed, and as the firing waxed warm, the Indians slowly retired as the whites advanced. After this fighlting had been going on perhaps some 10 minutes, the whites were reinforced by Captain David Musick, of Cape au Gris, with about 20 men.

Captain Musick had been on a scout toward the head of Cuivre River, and had returned, though unknown at Fort Howard, to the crossing of Cuivre River, about a mile from the fort, and about a mile and a half from the scene of conflict; and had stopped with his men to graze their horses, when, hearing the firing, they instantly remounted and dashed toward the place of battle, and dismounting in the edge of the timber on the bluff, and hitching their horses, they rushed through a part of the Indian line, and shortly after the enemy fled, a part bearing to the right of the Sink Htole toward Bob’s Creek, but the most of them taking refuge in the Sink Hole, which was close by where the main fighting had taken place. About the time the Indians were retreating, Captain Craig exposed himself about 4 feet beyond his tree, and was shot throu,gh the body, and fell dead; James Putney was killed before Captain Craig, and perhaps one or two others. Before the Indians retired to the Sink Hole, the fighting had become animated; the loading was done quick, and shots rapidly exchanged, and when one of our party was killed or wounded, it was announced aloud.

This Sink Hole was about 60 feet in length, and about 12 to 15 feet wide, and 10 or 12 feet deep. Near the bottom, on the southeast side, was a shelving rock, under which perhaps some 50 or 60 persons might have sheltered themselves. At the northeast end of the Sink Hole, the descent was quite gradual, the other end much more abrupt, and the southeast side was nearly perpendicular, and the other side about like the steep roof of a house. On tile southeast side, the Indians, as a further protection in case the whites should rush up, dug under the shelving rock with their knives. On the sides and in the bottom of the Sink Hole were some bushes, which also served as something of a screen for the Indians. Captain Musick and his men took post on the northeast side of the Sink Hole, 979

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. and thle others occupied other positions surrounding the enemy. As the trees approached close to the Sink Hole, these served in part to protect our party. Finding we could not get a good opportunity to dislodge the enemy, as they were best protected, those of our men who had families at the fort gradually went there, not kniowing but a large body of Indians mi,ght seize the favorable occasion to attack the fort while the men were miostly away, engaged in tlhe exciting contest. The Indians in thle Sink Hole had a drum, made of a skin stretched over a section of liollow tree, on which they beat quite constantly; and some Indian would shlake a rattle, called ste-spu-qui, probably a dried bladdler with pebbl)es within; and even, for a moment, would venture to thrust his head in view, withl his hand elevated, shaking. his rattle, and calling out pe(s7h! pecas7t! which was understood to be a sort of defiance, or, as Black Hawk, who was one of tlhe party, says, in his account of that affair, a kind ofI) bravado to come and fight them in thle Sink Hole.‘When the Indians would creep up and shloot over the rim of the Sink Hole, they would instantly disappealr, and while they sometimes fired effectual shots, they in turn became occasionally the victims of our’ rifles. From about 1 to 4 o’clock in thle afternoon, the firing was inconstant, our men generally reserving their fire till an Indian would show his head, and all of us were studying, how lie could more effectually attack and dislodge tlhe enemy. At lengthl Lieutenant Spears suggested that a pair of cart wheels, axle and tongue, which were secen at Allen’s place, near at hand, be obtained, and a moving battery constructed. This idea wvas entertained favorably, and an hour or more consumed in its construction. Some oak floor punclieons, firom 7 to 8 feet in lengthl, were nmade fast to the axle in an upright position, and portholes made thlroughll them. Finally, the battery was ready for trial, and was sufliciently large to protect some half a dozen or more mnen. It was moved fi)rward slowly, and seemed to attract the particular attention of the Indians, who had evidently heard the knocking and pounding connected with its nmanufacture, and who lnowN frequently popped up their heads to make momentary discoveries; and it was at lengthl moved up to within less than 10 paces of the )brink of tlhe Silnk Hole, on the southeast side. The uprighlt plank dicl not reach tlhe ground within some 18 inches, our men calculating to shloot beneath the lower end of tlhe plank at the Indians; but the latter, from their position, had the decided advant-ge of this neglected aperture; for the Indians, shooting beneath the battery at an upward angle, would get shlots at the whites before thle latter could see them. Tle Indians also watched the portholes, and directed some of their slhots to them. Lieutenant Spears was shot dead, tlhroughl the forehlead, and his deathl was much lamented, as lie had proved himself the most active and intreI)itl officer enlgaged. John Patterson was wounded in the thlighl, and some others wounded )lellind the battery. HIaving failed in the object for which it was designed, the battery was abl)andoned after sundown. Our hope all along had been, that the Indians would emerge from their covert, and attempt to retreat to where we supposed their canoes were left, some 3 or 4 miles distant, in which case we were firmly determined to rush upon them, and endeavor to cut them totally olff: The men generally evinced the greatest bravery lduring the whole engagemient. Niight now coming onl, we lheard the reports of hlalf a dozen or so of guns in the direction of the fort, t)y a few Indians who lrushed out from the woods skirting Pob’s Creek, not more thlan 40 rods tron’ the north end of the fort. This movement on the part of the few Indians 980

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MISSOURI. vwho had escaped when thle others took refuge in the Sink Hole, was evidently designed to divert the attention of the whites, and alarm them for the satety of the fort, and thus effectually relieve the Indians in the Sink Hole. This was tlhe result, for Captain Musick and men retired to the fort, carrying the dead and wounded, and made ev,ery preparation to repel a night attack. IAs the Mississippi was quite high, with much back water over the low grounds, the approach of tlle enemly was thus facilitated, and it was feared a large Indian force was at hland. The people were always more apprehlensive of danger at a time wl-len the river was swollen, than when at its ordinary stage. lThe men in the fort were mnostly up all nighlt, ready for resistance, if necessary. There was no physician at the fort, and much effort was made to set some broklen bones.

There was a well in the fort, and provisions and ammunition sufficient to sustain a pretty formidable attack. The women were greatly alarmed, pressiig their infants to their bosoms, fearing they might not be permitted to bellold anotlher morning’s li,ght; but the nighlt passed away without seeing or hearing an Indian. The next morning a party went to the Sink Hole, and found the Indians gone, lwho had carried off all thleir dead and wounded, except 5 dead bodies left on the northwest bank of the Sink Hole; and by the signs of blood within the Sink lIHole, it was judged that well nighl 30 of the enemy must have l)een killed a nd wounded.

Lieutenant Drakeford Gray’s report of the affair, made 8 of our party killed, one missilng, and 5 woundecd-making a total of 14; I had thought the numbl)er was nearer 20. Our dead were buried near the fort, when Captain Musick and his men went over to Cape au Gris, where they belonged, and of which garrison Captain Musick had the commnand. We that day sent out scouts, while I proceeded to St. Charles to procure medical and surgical assistance, and sent forward Drs. Hubbard and Wilson. 981

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~”-a- -q’. L ARKANSAS. Area,……………… Population in 1860………

(Whites, 324,191; Negroes, 111,259) Population in 1870……… THE State of Arkansas is situated between 33~ and 36~ 30’ N. latitude; and between 89~ 45’ and 94~ 40’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Missouri, on the east by Mississippi and Tennessee, on the south by Louisiana and Texas, and on the west by Texas and the Indian Territory. Its extreme length, from north to south, is 240 miles, and its greatest width, from east to west, about 225 miles. TOPOGRAPHY. The eastern part of the State, for 100 miles back from the MIississippi, is flat and swampy. The northwestern part is occupied by the Ozark Mounttains, a low range extending into the State firom Missouri, and never rising above a height of 2000 feet. The Black Hills lie in the north, and the TVashita ffills in the west are the remaining elevations. The greater part of the State is rolling The 3JississipRi Rives forms the eastern boundary, and receives the waters of the Arkansas and St. Francis rivers. The principal towns on its banks are Oceola, Mound City, Helena, and Napoleon. The Atkanscas Rive) enters the State at Fort Smith on the western boundary, and flows southwest across it into the Mississippi at Napoleon. It divides the State into two unequal parts, and receives the waters of the White River on the north, and some small streams from both sides. The principal towns on its banks are Van Buren, Little Rock, and Napoleon. 92 52,198 Square Miles.

435,450

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ARKANSAS. The Red River flows through the southwest part of the State, and the Washita (already described), with its branches, the Saline and Boeuf, drain the south central counties. The WVhite River is the principal branch of the Arkansas, and empties into it a few miles above the junction of the latter stream with the Mississippi. It rises in a number of branches in Southern Missouri, and flows south through the eastern part of Arkansas.

It now flows into the Mississippi by a new channel near the mouth of the Arkansas, being ill reality a tributary of both streams. Its entire length is about 800 miles, for 500 of whlichl it is navigable for steamers. The St. I’UciRs liver rises in Soultlheast Missouri, and flows into the Mississippi just above Helena. It is 400 miles long, and is navigable for 200 miles, beyond the limits of Ar kansas. The RPed River is navigable throughout its course in this State. The Washita is navigable to Camden, and its tributaries, the Saline and Bceuf, are each navigable for a considerable distance. MINERALS. The principal minerals of Arkansas are coal, iron, lead, zinc, manganese, gypsum, marble, and salt. The coal fields are very extensive, and extend along both sides of the Arkansas, from about 40 miles above Little Rock to beyond Fort Smith. The deposits of manganese are enormous, and it contains, according to Professor De Bow, more zinc than any other State except New Jersey. The lead ore is very rich in silver, and gold has been discovered in White county. There is a large quarry of oil stone near the Hot Springs, which surpasses any similar formiation in the world, and is inexhaustible. In Pike county, on the Little Missouri River, there is a mountain of pure white alabaster.

lThe Hot Springs, about 60 miles southwest of Little Rock, are famous for their medicinal qualities. They are especially beneficial in rheumatic and syphilitic cases. They are about 100 in number, and have an average temperature of about 145 degrees. CLIMATE. In the northern and western parts of the State the climate is severe, resembling that of Iowa and Wisconsin. The southern and eastern sections have a climate like Louisiana and Mississippi. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. As a general rule the soil is good.

The best lands are in the eastern part of the State, and need a better systemn of drainage. 983

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1869, there were over 2,00(,000 acres of improved land in tile State. In the same year the principal returns were: Bushels of wheat,….. Indian corn,. ” potatoes,…. ” oats,……. ” peas and bealus,. Tolls of hay,……. Number of horses,……. ” mules and asses,.

milch cows,… sheep,…… swine,… ” young cattle,.. Value of domestic animals,. In 1870, the cotton crop amounted to 375,000 bales. COMMERCE AND

MIANUFACTURES. Arkansas has no foreign commerce, but possesses a profitable river trade with Memphis and New Orleans. It has no manufactures of importance, and will, probably, never attain the position of a manufacturing State. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. As late as 1868, the State was very backward in internal improvenments. In that year it contained but 191 miles of completed railroads. The cost of construction was $4,400,000. The great abunlldanice of water transportation in the State enables it to dispense with railroads to a very great degree. Since 1868, a number of new lines of railway have been begun, and are being built at present. EDUCATION. In 1860, there were in Arkansas, 4 colleges, with 235 students; 109 academies and private schools, with 4415 pupils, and 727 public schools, with 19,242 pupils. The war completely convulsed the State, and closed all the schools. By the return of peace a large number of the schoolhouses had been destroyed, or rendered unfit for occupancy, and the educational funds had been scattered. A more melancholy condition of affairs cannot be imagined. The new Constitution makes provision for a system of Public Edu 984 . 1,170,000 . 25,750,000 346,000

500,000 21,489 10,000 199,600 79.800 190,500 450,030 . 1,500,630 450,005 .

$20,096,977

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ARKANSAS. cation, which is placed under the supervision of a Superintendent of Public Schools. Free schools are to be established and maintained by the State, and a permanent school filnd set apart.

Attendance at school is made compulsory upon all children between the ages of five and eighteen years. Measures are being taken for the establishment of a State University, with a Department of Agriculture. In 1860, there were 115 libraries in the State, containing 23,221 volumes. Ill the same year, 36 weekly newspapers, with an aggregate aninual circulation of 2,122,224 copies, were published in the State. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The public institutions of Arkansas were greatly injured by the war. The Petitecitiary, at Little Rock, was used as a military prison until the readmission of the State into the Union, and was very greatly injured. In 1870, 346 prisoners were confined here. The Iistitutionfor-the Blin(d was established in 1859. It maintained a feeble existence, owing to the want of funds, until 1863, when it was closed, and the property sold. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 1008 churches in Arkansas. Many of these were destroyed or greatly injured during the war. FINANCES. In 1868, the debt of the State amounted to $4,577,081. We have no accurate returns from the State Treasury. In 1868, there were 2 National banks, with a capital of $200,000, doing business in the State. GOVERNMENT. The present Constitution of Arkansas was adopted in 1868. By its terms, every male citizen of the United States, and every male forei,gner who has lawfully declared his intention to become a citizen, who is 21 years old and has resided in the State one year, and in the county six months, is entitled to vote at the elections. Persons in the military and naval service of the United States, convicts, idiots, lunatics, and persons who participated in the rebellion, are excluded from the ballot. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, 985

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 24
members), and a House of Representatives (of 82 members), all elected by the people. The State officers and Senators are chosen for four years, and thle Representatives for two years. The Legislature meets biennially in January. The courts of the State are the Supreme Court, Circuit Courts, and County Courts. Thle judges in this State are appointed by the Goverinor and confirmed by the Senate. Tile Supreme Court is composed of a Chief Justice and four Associate Justices, appointed for eight years. The seat of Government is established at Little Rock. The State is divided into 55 counties. HISTORY. Arkansas was first discovered by De Soto, in 1541. He reached the eastern bank of the Mississippi nearly opposite the present town of Helena, and after halting there 20 days to lbuild boats, crossed the river, and marched 200 miles west of the Mississippi. He sought gold, but failed to find it, and wandering south to the Washita, descended it in 1542 to its mouth, and passed down the Red River to the Mississippi, where he sickened and died, and was buried by his followers in the great river he had discovered. Arkansas was next visited by Father Marquette, dutring his voyage down the Mississippi, in 1673. In the next century, trading-posts were erected in the lowver part of the present State. Arkansas was included in the purchase of 1803, and after the admission of Louisiana into the Union formed a part of Missouri Territory.

In 1819, it was erected into a separate Territory, with its present name, and in 1820, the first Legislature met at Arkansas Post. In the same vear the seat of Governnment was removed to Little Rock. The population increased rapidly, and in 1830 ntnibered 30,388 souls. On the 15th of June, 1836, Arkansas was admitted into the Union as a State. In 1840, four years later, the population was 97,574, of which 19,935 were slaves. At the commencement of the civil war, a State Convention was held at Little Rock. This body, on the 4th] of March, 1861, adopted an ordinance of secession, and the State soon after became a member of’ the Southern Confederacy. It was occupied by both armies during almost the entire period of the war. Several severe battles were fought on its soil, and the State was literallv torn to pieces. 9s6

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ARKANSAS. I,ITTLE ROCK. In 1864, an attempt was made by the Union men of Arkansas to reorganize the State Government, but Congress refused to recognize it as a legitimate government, and organized the State as the Fourth Military District. In 1868, a new Constittition was adopted, and on the 22d of June, of that year, Arkansas was readmitted into the Union.

CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal places in the State are, Helena, Napoleon, and Camnden. LITTLE ROCK, In Pulaski county, is the capital of the State. It is situated on the right or southern bank of the Arkansas River, about 300 miles from its mouth, 155 miles west-)bysouth of Memphis, 905 miles by water from New Orleans, and 1086 miles west of Washington City. Latitude 340 40’ N.; longittide 83~ 10’ W. The city is built on a rocky bluff, about 50 feet high. This is the first bluff that occurs in ascending the river, and commands a fine view of the stream and the surrounding country. Little Rock is built principally of wood, and is in some respects a handsome city. The principal buildings are the State House, a handsome rough-cast brick edifice; the Stcte Penitentiary, which has been several times burned down by the convicts; and the United States Arsenal. Soueic of the 987

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. IIELENA. residences are elegant, and have handsome grounds. The city contains 6 churches, several good schools and seminaries, and 2 newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 12,380.

Little Rock lies in close proximity to a fertile cotton region. It is connected with Memphis, Tennessee, by railway, and large quantities of cotton are sent overland to that market. Being the principal town on the Arkansas River, it possesses a considerable river trade, and is connected by steamers with Memphis, New Orleans, and the important towns oni the Mississippi. Slate of a fine quality, good clay, and granite, which resembles the Quincy granite in appearance, but is not so hard, are found in the vicinity. Tile city was founded in 1820, and owes its name to the rock on which it is built. It was seized by the State troops at the outset of the civil war, but was captured by the United States forces in 1862.

HELENA, The second city of the State, is situated in Phillips county, on the right bank of the Mississippi River, 80 miles below Memphis. It is a well-built town, and contains the county btildings, several churclles and schools, and a newspaper office. It is the most important commercial town in the State. It is connected with Memnphis and Little Rockli by regular lines of steamers, and conducts an important trade along the St. Francis, White, and Arkansas rivers. In the rear of Helen:a is an extensive and fertile cotton country, and large quantities of this stapl)le are sent here for shipment to Memnphis and New Orleans. Helena was almost entirely destroyed by fire in the summer of 1852. In 1862, it was captured by the United States forces, and held by them until the close of the war. In 1870, the population was 2249. 988

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KAN S AS. 81,318 Square Miles. 107,206 364,377 Area,…… Population in 1860,. Population in 1870, THE State of Kansas is situated between 37~ and 42~ N. latitude, and between about 94~ and 102~ W. longitude. It is bounded on0 the north by Nebraska, oni the east by Missouri, on the south by the Indian Territory, and on the west by Colorado. It is about 400
mniles long, fromn east to west, and 200 miles wide, from north to south.

TOPOGRAPHY. “The general stirface of Kansas is a gently undulating prairie, having no marked features like those of other prairie States, except, perhIaps, the diversity presented by a more rolling surface. The division of’ land is of two classes. First to mention is the timber and rich alluvial bottom lands, bordering rivers and creeks, the estimated area of whichl is ten million acres, being fully five times the amount of all improved lands in the State at the present time. To the second belongs the uplanid or rolling prairie, the soil of which averages from 2 to 3
feet in depth, with a subsoil of fertilizing qualities wh-ich will, by careful cultivation, prove inexhaustible. This class of land is consideredl, by far, preferable for the raising of grains and fruits, while the bottom land is selected for corn, hemp, vegetables, and grasses.

But such is the uniform character of the general surface of Kansas, that niearly every quarter section within its limits is capable of cultivation.

Timber is confined mainly to the borders of rivers and creeks, and is not superab)undant; yet its scarcity is compensated for in a great 989 …..

*…..

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. measure by the very general distribution of rock throughout the State, which is easy of access, and furnishes the best of building and fencing material. ” No mountain ranges, swamps, slouglhs, or lakes exist in the State, except in some instances where rivers have changed their beds, leaving small lakes. WVater-courses are well distributed over the State. Their usual course is south of east. Among the most important streams may be mentioned the Arkansas and Neosho on the south, the Kansas River and its tributaries in the northern part, and the Missouri River forming the eastern boundary. The descent of the Kansas River mnay be regarded as showing the rapidity of the watercourses of the State. From its mouth, west 100 miles, the fall is a little over 2 feet to the mile; for the second and third hundred miles, about 6 feet to the mile; and for the last one hundred miles, about 7 feet to the mile; making a total fall of over 2000 feet in 400 miles. Waterpowers are not abundant, but several are being improved on the Neosho and other smaller streams.” * A paper, recently published under the authority of the State, thus describes the rivers of Kansas: “The Kansas Ritier is the largest in the State, and one of the most beautifiul streams of water in the West. It is formed by the junction of the Republican and Smokly Hill, near Junction City, in the central part of the State, and flows in an easterly direction for a distance of 150 miles, through a rich fertile valley, from 3 to 7
miles in width, and empties into the Missouri River at Wyandotte City, the eastern terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad. The Bepublican River comes down from Colorado, through the northwestern portion of the State, coursing in a southeasterly direction through a rich, wild region of country, for a distance of over 300 miles. The Smioky Hill derives its source from the confluence of several smaller streams in the eastern part of Colorado, and flows to the east through the central part of the State, to its junction with the Rel)ublican. Along the rich valley of this river, a daily line of stage-coaches pass from the western terminus of the Union Pacific Railroad to Denver City. The Nosho 0 tiver rises near the centre of the State, and flows to the southeast through a rich agricultural and stock-growing country, emptying into Grand River, near the southeast corner of Kansas. The Neosho Valley is from 3 to 7 miiles in width, and contains some of the most beautiful, rich, and * Report of the Surveyor-General of Kansas. 990

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KANSAS. desirable lands in the State. The Arkansas River, collecting the snows of the Rocky Mountaiiis, floes in an easterly direction through the southwestern part of the State, for a distance of 300 miles. The Gr’eat Yei,aiictha rises in the northl-central part of the State, and flows east, emiptying into the MIissouri River at the northeast corner of the State.

There is a suffiiency of timber on its banks for all practical purposes in the country throught,l which it passes. The Osaye courses thlrotugh a fine region of country in southern Kansas, about Ini(lway between the valleys of the Kansas and Neosho. The Potawatomie and other smaller streams flow into the Osage. The valleys of these rivers contain some of the most valuable farms in the State. The Big Blte, from Nebraska Territory, flows to the south, through the northcentral part of the State, emptying into the Kansas River at the city of MAanhattan. The Soloimoit rises in the northwestern part of the State, flows in a southeasterly direction, and empties into the Smoky Hill, about 30 miles west from Junction City. The source and general direction of the Verdigris, Cottonwood, Grasshopper, Grand, Saline, and all other Kansas rivers, may be seen by referring to Ream’s trap of Kansas. In addition to the above is the Missouri River, which washes the eastern shore of the State for a distance of over 100
mniles. This river, navigable at all times, is a source of great value to the State, and especially to Leavenworth, Atchison, AW’andotte, AWhite Cloud, Doniiiphan, and other cities that stand upon its banks. It is impossible to draw a line of distinction between different localities, the whole State being supplie(d with an abundance of pure, clear cold water.

Besides the clear running streams and cool, refireshing, springs in the different localities, the best quality of water is also obtained by digging wells on the high prairies-ranging from 10 to 30 feet in depth.”

MINERALS. AThite and blue limestone are found in large quantities. Coal abounds, and is of an excellent quality. Sandstone, suitable for building, is quarried to a considerable extent, and marble, capable of receiving a fine polish, is found. Salt springs are numerous. CLIMIATE. The climate is mild. The winters are short, and but little snow falls. The spring sets in about the first of March, and soon after the prairies begin to glitter with a profusion of beautiful wild flowers. 991

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2TIIE GREAT REPUB’LIC. Thle heat of the summer is tempered by a cool and refreshing breeze which sweeps over the State. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil is deep, rich, and fertile. In the valleys it is often four or five feet deep, and rests upon a subsoil of clay. On the prairies it is about 3
feet deep, and rests upon a subsoil composed of clay and sand. In 1870, there were about 1,000,000 acres of improved lalnd in KanIsas. In the same year the returns were as follo()ws: Bushels of wheat,…. ” IIndian corni,.. oats,…. Irish t)otatoes,. rye….. i arley,… Nuumber of horses,.. asses and imules, imlilClch cows,. ” sheep,. s” swine,…. “
young cattle,. Value of domestic aimnals, Tons of hay,……. ……

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. Kansas is advancing rapidly in the work of internal improvements. At the close of the year 1868, there were 600 milies of completed railroads within the State. The eastern division of the Union Pacific Railroad has been completed firom Wyandotte and Leavenworth, on the Missouri River, to Sheridan, near the border of Colorado, a distance of 405 miles, and has been extended( to Denver City, Colorado. The central branch of the same road extends from Atchison, on the Missouri, to Waterville, in Marshall county, a distance of 100 miles. A road unites Wyandotte anid Leavenworth, l25 miles apart) extending along the bank of the Missouri. Roads are in progress in other parts of the State, and are being pushed forward with energy and rapidity. EDUCATION. Although so young a State, Kansas, in proportion to her population and means, is not far behind her older sisters in her system of public education. 992

2,800,000 24,500,000 1,500,000 1,500,000 20,000 2-), 000 35,301 1,990

41,310 ” 1, 820 161,310 71,863 $6,631,450 250,000

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KANSAS. A State University is in operation at Lawrence, and is gradually becoming ani excellent institution. It is endowed with a fund of $10,000, and 46,080 acres of land, besides the grounds occupied by it. The State also possesses and Agricultural College, to which a military department has been added, and a flourishing normal school, at the town of Emporia.

The educational system is under the control of a Superintendent of Public Schools, the counties have each a separate Superintendent, and the school dictricts are each in charge of a Board of Trustees. There is a permanent school fund, which is to be increased by sales of public lands, and taxes are levied for the support of the schools. In 1870, there were 2068 school districts in the State. The number of pupils was 63,218, and the average daily attendance, 39,401. A number of fine private schools are in operation in Kansas, but we have no returns from them. There are about 62
newspapers and magazines published in the State. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. The Pentitentiary is located near Leavenworth, and when completed will be one of the finest institutions of its kind ill the West. In ;November, 1870, it contained 209 convicts. The Asylum for the Deaf and Dunmb is at Olathe.

It is in a flourishing condition, and contains about 41 pupils. The Insane Asylum is at Ossawatomie. It is not provided with sufficient accommodations, but is conducted upon an excellent and successful plan. In 1870, the number of inmates was 41. The Institution for the Blind, at Wyandotte, contained 23 pupils in 1868, the year of its opening. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1864, there were about 150 churches in Kansas. The value of church property was about $400,000. FINANCES. In 1870, the total State debt was $1,593,306. The receipts of the Treasury, for the fiscal year ending November 30th, 1870, were $l,426, 696, and the expenditures, $1,367,611. In the same year there were 5 National banks, with a capital of $400,000, doing business in the State. 63 993

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THE GRIA’I’ IREFPUI1LIC. GOVERNMENT. Every male citizen of the United States, and every foreigner who has lawfully declared his intention to become a citizen, who is 21 years old, and has resided in the State six months, and in the township thirty days, is entitled to vote at the elections. Idiots, insane persons, convicts, persons in the military or naval service of the Union, and participants in the Rebellion, are excluded from the ballot. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Auditor, Treasurer, and AttorneyGeneral, and( a Legislature consisting of a Senate and House of Representatives, all chosen by the people. Tihe State officers and Senators are elected for two years, and the Riepresentatives for one year.

The general election is held in November, and the Legislature meets annually in January. The judclicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, District Courts, and County Courts. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and two Associate Justices. All judges are elected by the j)eople, those of the Supreme Court for six years, and those of the District Courts for four years. The seat of Government is established at Topeka. The State is divided into 75 organized counties. More will be added when the western part is laid off. HISTORY. KIansas originally formed a part of the Louisiana purchase. It was first visited by M. Dutisne, a French officer, in 1719. In 1804, Lewis and Clark passed up the Missouri River on their exploring expedition, and, in 1827, Fort Leavenworth, on the Missouri River, was built by the United States. Kansas was occupied mostly by Indians as late as 1854. By the terms of the Missouri Compromise, slavery was forever excluded from this region, as it lay north of 36~ 30’ N.

latitude. Until the year 1850, the vast region lying between the western and northwestern borders of Mlissouri and the Rocky Mountains, was called by the general and somewhvlat indefinite name of “the Platte Country;” the name being derived from the Platte River. It was kLnown to be a region of great fertility. Across it swept the grand trails of the overland route to the Pacific and to Utahl. The people of the New England States were particularly anxious that the Indian 994

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KANSAS. reservations which covered the eastern part should be boughllt up by the Government, and the country thrown open to emigration. Petitions to this effect were presented to the Thirty-Second Congress, but no10 action was taken upon them until DI)ecenmber, 1852, when Mr. Hall, of Mlissouri, introduced a bill into the House to organize thle ” Territory of Platte.”

It was referred to the Territorial Conl itt(t:, wllich, inl February, 18.53, reported a bill organizing the “Territoryv of Nebraska.” Thle southern delegates at once endeavored to open the proposed Territory to slavery, notwithlstanding tlhe fact that that instituttion was forbidden by the Missouri Comproimise. The free States opposed this effort, and nothing definite was accomp)lished until January, 1854, when Senator Douglas, of Illinois, introduced a bill dividing, the district into two Territories, to be called Kansas and Nebraska. He also proposed in this bill to repeal thle Miissouri Compromlise restriction, and leave the question of slavery or frec labor to be decided by the people of the Territories tthem-nselves. Thlis fatal measure divided the people of the States into two parties. Those in favor of slavery supported the bill, but thle friends of fr’ee labor opposed it. Thie bill was passed by Congress, and approved by the President, in 18(54. The Indian reservations were bought up, and the Territories thrown open to emigration. Kansas being a miore fertile Territory than Nebraskla, naturally attracted the greater number of settlers. Tlhe South made no attemlpt to settle it, but the New Eng,land States sent out emigrants in great numbers. The people living on the border of Missouri had long since resolved that Kansas should be a slave-hloldiig State, and now set to work to prevent free soil settlers from entering it. sNevertl eless, the Free State mien persevered, and in a few months after the Territory was organized the town of Lawrence was founded by 100 ftamilies from -New England. Other settlements wvreeestablished soon after, and the population increased very fast. . TI.

Reeder was appointed Governor by President Pierce. He endeavored to execute the laws faithfully, but vwas no match for thre determined and fierce proslavery leaders. I-e ordered an election for members of a Territorial Legislature to be held onI the 30tlh of Marchl, 185., but onl that day Kansas was invaded l)y large numbers of MIissourians, who succeeded in electing a proslavery Legislature. Six districts at once forwarde(d to the Governor protests against the elections, showiing beyond all reasonable doubt that they had

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TIIE GREAT REPUBLIC. been controlled by citizens of Missouri. The Governor, who was anxious to do justice to all parties, ordered a new election in these districts, each of which, with the exception of Leavenworth, returned a Free Soil delegate. The new delegates, however, were refused their seats upon the assembling of thie Legislature, and the successfill candidates at the original election admitted. A number of outrages were about the same time perpetrated by the Missourians upon members of the Free Soil Party. The Governor had summoned the Legislature to meet at Pawnee City, on the Kansas River, a town nearly 100 miles from the border, and supposed to be far enough away to be free from the intilmidation practised by the Missourians; but as soon as the Legislature asselmbled it changed the place of meeting to Shawnee Mission, on the Missouri border. The resolution was vetoed by the Governor, passed over his veto, and at once carried into effect. - Upon reassembling at Shawnee Mission, the Legislature proceeded to adopt the laws of Missouri as the laws of Kansas, and to frame a series of statutes designedly cruel and oppressive. These acts were vetoed by the Governor, who was removed by the President, and Wilson Shannon, of Ohlio, appointed in his place.

Meanwhile, the New Elngland and other Free Soil men had come into the Territory quietly and rapidly, until at length they outnlumbered the proslavery settlers. They now felt themselves strong enough to resist the outrages of the Missourians, and, accordingly, on the 5th of September, 1855, held a Convention, in which they distinctly repudiated the Government that had been forced upon them by men who were not residents of the Territory. They announced their intention to take no part in the election of a delegate to Congress, which had been ordered by the Territorial authorities for the 1st of October, and summoned the actual residents to send delegates to a Convention to meet at Topeka oin the 19thl of September. This Convention organized an Executive Committee for the Territory, and ordered an election to be held for the purpose of choosing a delegate to Congress. Governor Reeder was nominated and elected to Congress. On the 23d of October, the Convention adopted a free State Constitution, and forwarded it to Congress, with a petition for the admission of Kansas into the Union. A long and bloody struggle now began between the Free Soil and ProSlavery men in the Territory, during which the latter were ren forced by great numbers of young men from the Southern States, who 996

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KANSAS. came into Kansas for the avowed purpose of compelling the people to submnit to slavery. Numerous conflicts occurred between them, and both sides were guilty of many unjustifiable acts. The odium, however, properly belongs to the ProSlavery men, as they were the aggressors. They captured and sacked the town of Lawrence, burned several houses, and inflicted upon it damage to the extent of $150,000. The Federal Government usually lent its aid to the ProSlavery party, and did what it could to fasten slavery upon the Territory. In 1857, the ProSlavery party held a Convention at Lecompton, and adopted a Constitution known as the “Lecompton Constitution.” The administration of Mr. Buchanan exerted all its power and influence to secure the admission of Kansas under this instrument, notwithstanding the plainii fact that a majority of the people of Kansas were opposed to it. It was finally subtmitted to the people, and rejected by a vote of 11,300 against it, to 1788 votes in its favor. In January, 1859, the civil strife having subsided in the Territory, and the Free Soil men having a majority in the Legislature, a Convention was summoned at Wyandotte. It met in July, and adopted the TVyanclotte Constitution, which was ratified by the people by a large majority. This Constitution was then submitted to Congress, and a bill admitting the State of Kansas was passed by the Lower House early in 1860. The Senate, however, failed to act on the bill. At the next session, the measure was revived, and on the 30th of January, 1861, Kansas was admitted into the Uiiiont as a free State. The bitterness of the struggle had passed from the Territory to the country at large, and it now culminated in the great civil war, which for four years desolated the land. During the late war the State furnished 19,584 men to the service of the Union. It.was several times invaded by raiding parties from the Confederate army, west of the Mississippi, one of which sacked and burned the city of Lawrence. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal places of Kansas are, Leavenworth City, Wyandotte, Atchison, and Lawrence. rTOP E K A, In Shawnee county, is the capital of the State.

It is situated on the south side of the Kansas River, 25 miles west of Lawrence, and 55 miles, in an air line, southwest of Leavellnworth.

Latitude 39~ 5’ N., 997

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‘THE GREAT REPUBLIC. longitude 950 40’ W. The city is located on high ground, whichl rises gradually from the river. It is regularly laid out with wide streets, and is well built. It is growing rapidly, and promises to be one of the most important places in the State. The principal building is the new State Capitol, now nearly completed. The entire plan is formed with a view to the future wants of the State, and will be carried into execution as the needs of the Government demand. The whole structure, which is to be built of magnesian limestone, will be one of the finest of the kind in the country. The eastern wing alone will cost the State $450,000. The city contains about 5 or 6 churches, several excellent schools, and 2 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council.

In 1870 the population was 5790. The city derives its namne from “Topeka,”

an Indian word, signifVing ” wild potatoe,” large quantities of which grow along the river. The first settlement was made in December, 1854, by a company of emigrants from Lawrence. The place played a prominent part in the “Border war,” which preceded the admission of the State into the Union, and was for a time the free State capital of Kansas. LEAVENWORTH, The principal city of the State, is beautifully situated in the county of the same name, on the west bank of the Missouri River, 45 miles east-northeast of Topeka, 70 miles south of St. Joseph, Mo., and 495 miles above St. Louis. The city is laid out in rectangular blocks, with broad streets, which are well graded and macadamized. At the river’s edge is a natural levee of rock extending along the entire front of the city. The city is well built, and is rapidly improving. It contains about 18
churches, several excellent public schools, a medical college, about 6
private schools, including a commercial college and female seminary, a theatre, a mercantile library, and 3 daily and several weekly newspaper offices. It is lighted wvith gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council.

In 1870 the population was 17,849. Leavenworth was laid out in 1854, and has grown with astonishing rapidity. It now conducts an important trade along the Mississippi River, and is connected by railway with all parts of the country. In 1864, just ten years after its settlement, the value of taxable real and personal estate in Leavenworth was $4,103,562. The total business of the city for the same year amounted to $18,000,000. The city contains a number of flour mills, sawmills, breweries, brick 998

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KANSAS. LEA’RENWOITII CITY. yards, etc. Should it continue to improve as it has done during the past seventeen years, it will soon be one of the largest and most important towns in the Western States. LAWRENCE, In Douglas county, is the second city of the State. It is situated on the right or southern bank of the Kansas River, 25 miles east-bysouth of Topeka, and 3) miles south-southwest of Leavenworth. The Kansas River is here crossed by a handsome bridge, erected at a cost of $45,000. It is one of the handsomest and best built places in the State, and in spite of its misfortunes has steadily improved with respect to its architecture. The city lies on high ground, which slopes down to the river, and is regularly laid off. The streets are broad, well macadamized, and are shaded with trees. The city contains the county buildings, about 13 churches, several good schools, a public library, and 3 newspaper offices. The State University is located here. The city is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 8315. Lawrence was first settled in the summer of 1854, by a company of emigrants from New England, and was named in honor of Amos Lawrence, of Boston. The settlers were sent out by the Massachusetts Aid Society, with the design of making Kansas a free soil territory. During the continuance of hostilities in the territory, Lawrence was 999

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. the headquarters of the Free Settlers, and was, on this account, peculiarly obnoxious to the ProSlavery party. In May, 1856, it was captured and sacked by the ProSlavery men fromn Missouri, and damaged to the extent of $150,000. Its greatest misfortune, however, occurred during the civil war. On the morning of the 21st of August, 1863, a party of Southern guerillas, led by the notorious Quantrell, surprised the town. They burned about 150 dwellings, massacred 150 defenceless persons, sacked the town, and escaped with their plunder. Quantrell was not regularly connected with the Confederate army, and his deeds of violence soon compelled the Southern leaders to set a price upon his head.

The city recovered rapidly from this disaster, and is now in the midst of a most promising career. 1000

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NE B RAS KA. Area,…………..75,995 Square Miles Population in 1860,………28,842 Population in 1870,………122,993 THE State of Nebraska is situated between 40~ and 43~ N. latitude, and between 96~ and 104~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Dakota Territory, on the east by Iowa, on the south by Kansas and Colorado Territory, and on the west by Colorado and Wyoming Territories. TOPOGRAPHY. “Nebraska extends from the Missouri westward to the Rocky M ountains, with an extreme length of 412 miles, decreasing to 310 miles ol the southern border, its extreme width being 208 miles, diminishing to 138 miles on the west. Its area is 75,995 square m i l e s, or 48,636,800 acres. The country t hrough its entire length d i p s toward the Missouri River, being upon th e western slope of the g r e a t central basin of the North American co ntinent. The larger portion is elevated and undulating prairie; there are no Mlountains or high hills; the bottom lands of the river valleys are generally level.

Above these, from 40 to 100 feet, are second bottoms or table lands, s l o p i n g backward to the bluffs, which range with th e general level of the country. These bluffs sometimes rise hundreds of feet above the river level; back of these is the undulating prairie, well watered with springs and running streams, being covered with excellent grasses. T h i s prairie resembles the waves of the ocean s uddenly arrested in the i r swell and changed into soil and rock. Iil remarkable contrast with the general appearance of the State is the tract known as Mau 1001

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TIlE G tlEAT RE’PliPUBLIC. CiROSSI-G TllE, PLIAINS. vaises Terres, ill the western part of the State, 90 miles long and 30 wide, produced by some powerful agencies of denudation and degrad(lationI of the land. Viewved from a distance, it seems like some deserted abode of civilization; the prismatic and columnar masses appear as residences of modern architecture or public buildings, with towiers, colulmns, and walls. A near approach dispels the illusion, the imposilig forms of architectural beauty resolve themselves into masses of rocks wvithl labyrintlilne defiles. These first appearances, however, are not correct exponents of geological character, as they are found upon examination to contain some excellent lands.” * The llissoutii ]iver forms the eastern boundary and a part of the northern. It receives the waters of the principal streams of the State. The Rep)ublican Fork of the KCansas drains the southern counties, and the Nfiobrara forms a part of the northern boundary, and flows into the Missouri. The Platte or Nebva,ska Rliver is the principal streallm in the State. Jt is formed by the union of its North and South forkls, in the centre of the State the former rising in Wyomring, and the latter in Colorado. The general course of the main stream and its forks is eastward to the Missouri, into which it empties below Omalha Report of the General Land-Office. 1()02

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NEBRASKA. City. Including the North Fork (which is 800 miles long), the Platte is 1200 miles long. As its name signifies, it is a shallow river.

In the summer, it is but a succession of shallow pools; but during the spring freshets, steamers call navigate it for a considerable distance.

The Elkhornt River drains the northeast part of the State, and fiows into the Platte near its mouth. MINERALS. Thin beds of coal exist in several parts of the State. Limestone and sandstone abound, and salt springs are frequent, and yield an excellent quality of salt. CLIMATE, SOIL AND

PRODUCTIONS. “The climate is milder than the Eastern States within the same parallels of latitude; the summer is of high temperature, but the sultriness is alleviated by cool, refreshing winds blowing over the prairies. The quantity of rain is less than falls on the Atlantic side.

This dryness does not become appreciable east of the 98th meridian. WTest of that meridian the soil, so far as known, is arid and not so well suited to agriculture; that part of the State to the eastward, however, is not deficient in moisture. The peculiar character of soil and climate indicates that stockraising will become a very important and remunerative branch of its agricultural enterprise. The dryness of the climate and the copious vegetation, especially of nutritious grasses, will attract capital, with a view to the establishment of wool-raising interests. The soil of the eastern portion is exceedingly fertile; the prairies are covered with a heavy sod, the mnatted growth of ages of vegetation, several teams of oxen being required to break it; the subsequent tillage is comparatively easy, the ground being rendered light and mellow. Along the rivers are groves of oak, walnut, cottonwood, hickory, and willow; very dense forests of cottonwood grow along the Missouri River above the mouth of the Platte.” In 1869, there were about 1,000,000 acres of improved land in the State. In the same year, the principal agricultural returns were as follows: B h eat,……….. 1,000,000 Indian corn………. 6,750,000 rye,…………….. 12,000 General Land-Office Report. 1003

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TIlE GREAT REPUBLIC. Bushels of oats,… “~ barley, potatoes,.. Tonls of hay……. Number of horses,…. asses and mules, milch cows,. sheep,.. 
swine, Value of domestic animals, ….. . ….. ***……. Value of doestic aiiials……………~..$7,I~O~4~ INTERNAL IMNPROVEMENTS. The great Pacific Railway extends entirely across this State, along the north bank of the Platte River, froin Omaha into Wyoming Territory. There are several other lines in active operation, and the State is rapidly improving in this respect. EDUCATION. There is a Normal School at Peru, which has been liberally endowed by the State. It was opened in October, 1867, and is succeeding admirably. A Superintendent of Public Instruction has the control of the schools, subject to the supervision of a State Board of Eduication, which consists of himself, the Governor, Treasurer, Secretary of State, and five other persons appointed by the Governor.

Oine-sixteenth of all the Government lands in the State, amounting to 2,643,080 acres, is set apart for the creation of a public school fiund, while 46,080 acres have been given for the e ndowment of a State University, and 90,000 acres for the State Agricultural College. The fund arising from these lands cannot be expend(led. Only the interest can be used. The minimum price at which they can be sold is $5 per acre, so that the fund to be derived from this source cannot be less than over $13,000,000. The whole amount derived from the school fund in 1869-70 was $77,999. The whole number of children in attendance upon the public schools in the same year was 32,619. FINANCES. The State has no public debt. Its Constitution prohibits it from incurring a debt in excess of $50,000 in amount. In 1870, the total assessed value of property in Nebraska was $53,000,000. 1004 . 2,250,000 9,000 550,000 110,000 19,356

1,372 42,071 7,209 6,917 . $7,186,454

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NEBRASKA. GOVERNMENT. The Constitution of this State was adopted in 1866.

By its terms, every male citizen of the United States, and every foreigner who has legally declared his intention to become a citizen, who is 21
years old, and has resided in the State one year, and the required time in the county, is entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 13
members) and a House of Representatives (of 39 members), all chosen by the people. The State officers are elected for four years, and members of the Legislature for two years. The judicial power is vested in a Supreme Court, District Courts, Probate Courts, and in Justices of the Peace. All judges are elected by the people. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and two Associates, chosen for six years. The seat of Government is located at Lincoln. The State is divided into 51 organized counties.

HISTORY. Nebraska was originally a part of the Louisiana purchase. It was organized as a Territory in 1854. Kansas attracted the greater part of the emigrants, and so occupied the attention of the proslavery partv that Nebraska escaped the struggle by which her neighbor was tolrn. Emigration was very rapid until the financial panic of 1857 checked it. The Territory was some time in recovering from the effects of this crisis, which has been succeeded by a slower but nmore substantial growth in prosperity. Inl 1860, its population was 28,842. The Pacific Railroad begins at Omahla, the principal city of the State, and will undoubtedly do much to build up and populate the young cornminon wealth. On the 21st of March, 1864, Congress passed an Act enabling the people to organize a State Government.

A Constitution was ratified by the people on the 8th of June, 1866, and on the 9th of February, 1867, Nebraska was admitted into the Union as a State. CITIES AND TOWNS. LINCOLN, The capital of the State, is situated in Lancaster county, 80 miles southwest of Omaha, and 50 miles west of Nebraska City, with which it is 1005

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. connected by railway. Tile towvn sprang up suddenly in the suiiiiiier of 1867, and grew with remarkable rapidity. Before eighteen months had elapsed, it had grown to such an extent in buildings and residents that on this account, as well as the prospective benefits resulting firom its local position to the whole community, the people by a majority of votes selected it as the capital of Nebraska. Towards the close of the year 1868, the seat of Government was removed fromi Oimahla, and permanently located at Lincoln. A suitable building having been prepared for that purpose, the Legislature met here in January, 1869.

Considerable progress has been made in establishing ptublic buildings and institutions here. The main portion of the capitol has been built of handsome white limestone, and the foundations of a State Uiiiversity and an Insane Asylumi are laid. Ai Penitentiary and an Agricultural College are to be erected here, having been authorized by the Legislature at its last session. The town is built Oln the open prairie in the midst of a delightfillly healthy, beautiful and fertile country. The population is about 2000, and is increasing rapidly. Three newspapers are published here. OMNAHA Sometimes called Onmaha C;ity, the largest and most important city of the State, is situated in Douglas county, on the wiest bank of the Mis soutri River, opposite the city of Council Bluffs, in Iowa. It is 18
miles above the mouth of the Platte River, 80 miles niortheast of Lincoln, and 250 miles by river above St. Joseph, Missouri. The city lies on a plateau between the river an(l the b)luffs. From the summits of the bluffs a magnificent view of the wide and undulating prairie is obtained. The city is regularly laid out. The streets are wide, cross each other at righlt-anlgles, and are paved with stone, with sidewalks of brick. The principal public buildings are the old State House, and the Cou)rt Ho,,se.

The former is of brick, and occupiesa commanding site. The city contains about 11 or 12 churches, several good public and private schools, and 5
newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 16,083. The Missouri is navigable for large steamers for some distance above Omaha, and the city carries on a considerable river trade. Omaha is connected with all parts of the country by railway, being connected with Council Bluffs by a steam ferry. It is the eastern terminus of the Pacific Railway, and is, consequently, a place of considerable im 1006

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DEPOT AT OMAHA CITYo

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NEBRASKA. OMIAIIA. portance. It is largely engaged in the sale iand transportation of goo(ds to the mines, plains, an(dl frontier forts. Many of the emigrants going westward obtain their outfits here. Oianhla was fl)ulded ill 1854. In 1860, it contained btut 1883 inhlabitants. It derives its name fironi a tribe of Indians. NEBRASKA (lCITY. The second city of the State, is situated in Otoc county, on the right or western bank of the Missouri River, 28 miles below the mouth of the Platte PRiver, 50 miles east of Lincoln, and 96 miles, by water, southl of Omaha. It is built on ground whichl rises as it recedes from the river. The buildings are mostly of wvood, but the. town has a bright and pleasing appearance.

It contains the county buildings, 7 or 8 churches, 2 public halls, 4
public schools, and 3 newspaper offices. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 6050. The city conducts a large river trade, and is actively engaged iii fitting out emigrants for the plains and in sending supplies to the frontier towns. The Pacific Railway has taken away a great share of this business. There are valuable salt springs in the western part of the county. 1007

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N EVA AD A. Area,………… 112,090 Square Miles. Population in 1860,…….. 6,8o57 Population in 1870…….. 42,491 THE State of Nevada is situated between 37~ and 42~ N. latitude, and between 115~ and 120~ W.

longitude. It is bounded on the north by Oregon and Idaho Territory, on the east by Utah and Arizona Territories, and on the south and west by California. Its extreme length, from north to south, is about 348 miles, and its extreme width, fromn east to west, about 265 nmiles. TOPOGRAPHY.

The surface of the State is generally mountainous, and much of it is a barren desert. The Sierra Nevada range forms the western boundary, and the Humboldt Mountains occupy the cenitre. The East lHumboldt Milountains extend north and south through the upper eastern part of the State. A large part of Fremont’s Basin lies in Nevada, at an elevation of 400() feet above the sea. Twothirds of the State is a bleak desert, Nwhichl can neither be inhabited nor cultivated. There are no large rivers in Nevada, and the soil is only supplied withl the necessary amount of water l)y artificial means. The lium  boldt Riveri rises in the northeast of the State, and flowing westward, empties into Humboldt Lake. A small stream, called,alker River, flowNs thlrough the southwest and empties into Walker Lake. Carson? .iveri rises in the southwest and flows east into Carson Lake. “The only lakes of any considerable size in the State are those formed by the Humboldt, MWalker, Carson, and Truckee rivers, and 1008

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NETVADA. PALISADES IIU3IBOLDT RIVER: SCENE ON TIIE CENTRAL PACIFIC

PAILROAD. I)earing( the names of those streams respectively, together with Pyramid Lcalke, the largest of the group, formed by the waters of the Trt(kee River. Luke Tc-hoe, with one-third of its area only within the borders of Nevada, is a beautiful sheet of water, 21 miles long and 10
wide, and thlough elevated more tlhan 6000 feet above the level of the sea it never fieezes over, nor does the temperature of its waters vary much from 57 degrees in summner or winter, owing probably to its being fed by springs. This lake, like Lake Pyramid, abounds in trout of large size and fine flavor, and is surrounded on every side ) lofy lountainsh,hich, rising abruptly firom its shlores, are covered for nlearly twio-thirdls of the year with snow, and are heavily timbered with forests of pine, spruce, and fir. Pyramid Lake, whichl llas a depth of 1i;oo00 feet, is 12 miles wide by 30 in length, and is situated in the western part of the State; its scenery is extremely grand, being walled about with mountains 2000 to 3000 feet high. Jflono Lauke is about 14 miles long and 9 wide; it is so acid and nauseating as to renider it not onlyl unfit for drinking, but also for bathing. Leather immersed in it is soon destroyedl, and no animal, not even a fish or frog, can for more than a short time exist in it. The only thing ab)le to live in or upon the waters of this lake is a species of fly which, 64 1 009

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. spl)ringing from a larva bred in its bosom, shortly dies, and, collecting on the surface, drifts in great quantities to the shore, to be gathered and eaten by the Indians. None but the strongest winds can ripple the surface of this desolate lake; it may aptly be called a Dead Sea, its bitter and fatal waters rendering it literally such, while all its surroundings, wild, gloomiy, and foreboding, are highly suggestive of sterility and death. There are many warm and cold springs in the State, some of whiclh are much resorted to for the curative qualities of their waters.” MINERALS. Nevada is especially rich in minerals. Gold, silver, quicksilver, copper, lead, and iron are found in great abundance. The silver mines of this State, lhowever, are the principal source of her wealth. They yield intmmense sums annually. The Comstock lode produces about $16,500,000 worth of silver every year. It fiurnishes the principal portion of the metal produced in the State, and is thus described by Ross Browne: “The Conmstock lode runs along the eastern slope of the Washoe Mountains, at the foot of Mount Davidson, its loftiest summit. Its outcrop is not by any means continuous, consisting of parallel belts of quartz, extending from east to west, in some places nearly 1000 feet, which show themselves chiefly on the tops of the spurs, running down from the main ridge. The western of these quartz seams, being of a hard crystalline texture, form the most prominent outcrops, but experience has shown them to be of less value than the eastern bodies, which, from their different composition, have been more easily disentegrated, and are often covered up by the debris from the higher and steeper portions of the mountain. The vein has been more or less thoroughly explored, and its continuity established by underground workings for a length of about 321 miles, though the productive portion forms but a small proportion of the whole, as barren spots of great’extent intervene between the bonanzas or ore bodies. Its’strike’ or course, as shown by the exposure of the west wall, in numerous places, is nearly magnetic north and south (north 16 degrees east by true meridian). But little doubt now exists that the Comstock is a true fissure vein, with a width of from 20 feet upward. The total product of the Comstock lode, for the year ending December 31st, 1867, is estimated by the most reliable authorities at $17,500,000. It is estimated that other Ross Browle’s Report. 1010

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NEVADA. SILVER MINING. districts in Nevada have yielded during the same period $2,500,000, making the total product of Nevada for the calendar year, 1867, $20,000,000. The average percentage of gold and silver is about 66 per cent. silver, and 34 per cent. gold. In the outside districts the proportion of gold is considerably less. The amount of ore raised from the mines on the Comstock lode may be put down at the present tilme at about 1500 tons daily, and the total amount raised since the commencement of operations at about 2,000,000 tons. From information furnished by the superintendents of the following mines, the yield per ton appears to be: Savage Mine-30,250 tons produced in the last six months of 1866, yielded an average of $42.93 per ton. Hale and Norcross Mine-16,836 tons produced in the same time, yielded an average of $50.33 per ton. Gould and Curry Mine-62,425 tons produced in 1866, yielded an average of $28.64 per ton.

The total yield of precious metals from the’ Comstock’ lode in 5 years, or from 1862 to 1866, inclusive, was $63,000,000.” loll

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THE GRIEAT REPUBLIC. Coal is found in small quantities, and there are large deposits of salt and alkalies. CLIMATE. The climate, though severe, is not unpleasant, and is exceedingly healthful. The year is divided into the wet and the dry season, as ill Calibotn ia. Agriculture is neglected for the mines, but where the soil can be supplied with water by irrigation, it yields fair crops. INTERiNAL IMPROVEMIENTS. The Central Pacific Railway of California passes across the northern part of Nevada, from the western boundary into Utahli Territory. It extends for the most part thlrotugh a barren wilderness. EDUCATION. MWe have no returns from the schools of this State, which is makling commendable exertions to provide its youth w itl thie means of acquiring knowledge, and can only give an outline of the system which has been established. The chief control of the schools is vested in a Board of Education, consisting of the Governor, Surveyor-General, and Superintendent of Public Instruction.

The last official is the executive officer of the Board, and has the direct supervision of the schools. Each county elects a Superintendent, lwho directs its educational interests, and reports to the State Superintendent. ThIe counties are divided into districts, each of vwhich is under the immediate control of a Board of Trustees, chosen by the people. Where the voters fail to elect the Trustees, they are appointed by the County Superintendent. Tilhe State Superintendent appoints a Board of Examiners, consisting of three competent persons, for each county. These Boa,tds are charged(I with the duty of examining teachers and granting certificates. There is a permanent school fund, and measures are oni foot for the establishment of schools of a higher grade. FINANCES. The State debt, in 1868, was $278,000, and is payable in coin. During the year 1866, the receipts of the Treasury amounted to $425,000, and the expenditures to $320,000(). 1012

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NEVADA. GOVERNMENT. The Constitution of Nevada was adopted in 1864. By its terms, every male citizen of the United States, who has resid(led in the State six months, and in the county thirty days, is entitled to vote at the elections. Convicts, idiots, and insane persons are excluded from the ballot. The Government is vested in a Governor, LieutenantGovernor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Comptroller, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 19 members), and an Assembly (of 38 members), all chosen by the people. The Governor and other State officers are elected for four years. The judicial power is invested in a Supreme Court, District Courts, Probate Courts, and in Justices of the Peace. All judges are elected by the people. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice, and two Associate Justices, chosen for four years. The seat of’Government is established at Carson City. The State is divided into 17 organized counties. HISTORY. Nevada was originally a part of Utah Territory, and constituted the western part of it. In 1861, it was erected into a Territory, and was admitted into the Union as a State on the 31st of October, 1864. Previous to the discovery of silver, it was almost entirely neglected by emigrants. In the summer of 1859, silver was found in the Washoe district, and as if by magic settlers began to pour in. V
irginia City sprang up in a marvellously short timre, and in 1864 was the second city on the Pacific coast. The circumstances attending the discovery of silver, were as follows: “The Washoe silver mines were first discovered by Mr. Patrick ‘McLaughlin, an’honest miner,’ who was working for gold in a gulch or ravine, and where he was making $100 a day to the hand. As he and his companions followed tip the gulch, it paid even better, until, on arriving at a certain point, it gave out altogether, and they struck a vein of pure sulphuret of silver, which they at first supposed to be coal, but observing that it was very heavy, they concluded it must be valuable, and sent one of their number to San Francisco with some of the black ore to ascertain its value. It was given to a Mr. 1013

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Killaley, an old Mexican miner, to assay. Killaley took the ore home and assayed it. The result was so astounding that the old man got terribly excited. The next morning poor Killaley was found dead in his bed. He had long been in bad health, and the excitement killed him. Immediate search was made for the original deposit, which resulted in the since famous Comstock lode. Where first found, this lode has no outcropping or other indication to denote its presence. The first assay of the rock taken from the lode when first struck gave a return of $265 of gold and silver per ton, there being a larger proportion of gold than silver. Subsequent assays of ore taken from the vein, as it was sunk upon, showed a rapid increase in richness, until the enormous return was made of $7000 to the ton$4000 in gold and $3000 in silver. Still later assays of choice pieces of ore have given a return of $15,000 to the ton. In this case these ounce assays did not mislead, but a vast difference is to be observed between rich ore and a rich mine. A poor mine often yields specimens of rich ore, which through the ounce assay, serves but to delude. The true test of the value of a silver mine is the quantity of the ore, and the average yield of the ore in bulk after the establishment of reduction works.” CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capita], Virginia City, and Austin, are the principal towns. CARSON CITrY, The capital of the State, is situated in Ormsby county, at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, about 4 nmiles west of Carson River, 250 miles (by railway) east of San Francisco, and 15 miles south-by-west of Virginia City. It was founded in 1858, and lies in a fertile plain in the midst of some of the grandest-scenery on the Continent. The State buildings, the Court House, State Prison, and United States Mint, are the principal edifices. In 1870, the population was 3042. VIRGINIA CITY, The largest and most important city in the State, is situated in Storey county, among rocky ledges and ravines, on the eastern slope of Mount Davidson, 15 miles north-northeast of Carson City. The principal streets are level, having been in many places graded through the hard rock. In the business sections are many solid blocks of 1014

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NEVADA. stone, five stories high, and the suburbs contain many beautiful and costly private residences. It contains 4 churches and schools, and several newspaper offices. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with pure spring water, which is distributed through iron pipes. In 1870, the population was 7008. The city owes its prosperity and growth to the silver mines with which it is surrounded. The famous Comstock lode was discovered here in June, 1859. The mines are the richest in the State, and are said to have yielded in 1864, $10,425,350 worth of silver. During the great excitement which followed the discovery of silver, Virginia City was the headquarters of all the adventurers who flocked to the mines. At one time the population was from 15,000 to 20,000. Since then it has settled down to a better and more prosperous life. 101.5

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I~;? C ALIF O RN IA. Area…………. 188,981 Square Miles. Population ill 1860,………397,994 Population in 1870,……… 560,223 THE State of California is situated between 32~ 32’ and 42~ N. latitude, and between 114~ 20’ and 124~ 22’ W. longitude. It is about 700 miles long, and has an average width of 180 miles. It is bounded on the north by Oregon, on the east by Nevada and Arizona, on the south by Old California (which is a part of the Republic of Mexico), and on the west by the Pacific Ocean.

TOPOGRAPHY. “California is an extremely rugged country, a large portion of its surface being covered with mountains….. The Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Mountains, which bound the Sacramento Valley on the east, include a series of ranges which, collectively, are 70 miles wide. The general name for the group is derived from the snow, which is rarely absent from the higher peaks in the range. The Coast Range, which bounds it on the west, also consists of a series of chains, aggregating 40 miles in width, bordering the State from its northern to its southern boundary. There is a most remarkable difference in the structure and conformation of the two series.

The Sierra Nevada ranges may be traced in consecutive order for an immense distance, while in the Coast Range all is in confilusion and disorder…..

Those portions of this range which skirt the coast in Marin, Sonoma, and Mendocino counties, between latitude 38~ and 40~, are tolerably well timbered; but south of Bodega Bay and north of Mendocino county, except about Monterey Bay and Santa Cruz, the coast line presents a bleak and 1016

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CALIFORNIA. sterile appearance. All the valleys in the range which are open to the coast are narrow, and trend nearly east and west. The Salinas, the most extensive of these coast valleys, is nearly 90 miles in length, by 8 to 14 miles in width, a large portion of which is adapted to agricultural purposes-being exceedingly fertile, producing abundance of wild oats and clover, where not under cultivation. The Russian River valley, which also opens to the sea, is also very fertile. Further inland, sheltered from the cool sea breezes by the outer range of mountains, are many tolerably broad and very beautiful valleys, which produce the finest grain, fruit and vegetables raised in this part of the coast…. The outer coast valleys are generally separated by steep, barren ridges, while those inland, are divided by gently sloping hills, somewhat similar to the rolling prairie lands of Illinois, and are susceptible of cultivation over their entire surface. All the coast valleys are tolerably well watered….. To the peculiarly isolated position of Mointe Dial)lo-standing aloof as it does, from the throng of peaks that rise from the Coast Range, like a patrician separated from plebeians, the beauty of its outline commanding the attention of the traveller by land or sea-makes it a landmark not possible to mistake, and causes its summit to be a centre from whence may be viewed a wider range of country than can be seen from almost any other point in the State. On the north, east, and southeast, may be seen a large portion of the great valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin, with many thriving towns and villages, environed with gardens and farms, while sweeps and slopes of verdure mark the distant plains with hues inimitable by art. In the extreme distance, as a border to this grand panorama, rising range upon range, is seen the Sierra Nevada mountains, stretching along the horizon upward of 300 miles.

In an opposite direction the beautiful valleys of the Coast Range come into view, with all the charming features of prosperous and skille(l rural industry, and the broad bay of San Francisco, where are riding at anchor afleet of ships, from the masts of which the ensigns of nearly all nations may be seen fluttering; while beyond, extending from the water-line to the very sutmmnit of the highest hills, is San Francisco City, the honme of nearlv one-fourth the population of the State. To the right i~seen the forts and earthworks that guard the Golden Gate, while beyond, as far as the eye can reach, is the Pacific Ocean, bearing on its bosomni numberless vessels, passing to and fro on the peacefuil mission of commerce.” “The Natural Wealth of California.” By T. F. Cronise. 1017

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THIE GREAT REPUBLIC. ORIGINAL BIG TREE (30 feet in diameter). The highest peaks of the Coast Range are Mt. San Bernardino, 8500 feet high, Mt. San Gorgonio, 7000 feet, Mt. Hamilton, 4433 feet, Mt. Diablo, 3876 feet, Mt.

Ripley, 7500 feet, and Mt. St. John, and Mt. Linn. The height of the last two has not yet been accurately determined. The principal peaks of the Sierra Nevada are Mt. Whit ney, 15,000 feet, Mt. Cawiah, 14,000 feet, Mt.

Silliman, 11,800 feet, Mt. Tyndall, 14,200 feet, Table Mountain, 13,000
feet, Mt. Brewer, 13,700 feet, Mt. Goddard, 13,000 feet, Mt. Lyell, 13,500, Mt. Dana, 13,500, and Castle Peak, 13,000. In the northern part of the State, the Sierra Nevada and Coast Range unite. The principal peaks of this region are Mt. Shasta, 14,440 feet, MAt. Lassen, Downieville BuLttes, 8840 feet, and Pilot Peak, 7300 feet. The most important valleys along the coast are the Santa Clara, San Gabriel, Los Angeles, Salinas, Pajaro, Anmador, San Ramton, Suisin, Napa Sonomna, Petaluma, Russian River, and Humboldt Bay. In the southeastern part of the State is a sterile region 140 miles long and 70 miles wide, known as the Colorado Desert. When the Colorado River overflows its banks the centre of this tract, which is 70
feet below the level of the sea, is converted into a lake. At other times, it is an arid, dreary waste. North of this desert is a tract called 1018

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CALIFORNIA. the Jiohave Basin. It is watered by a few streams, all of which empty into small salt lakes, which dry up in the summer. The waters of these lakes are strongly impregnated with alkaline salts. No fish can live in them, and the water of some of them scalds the skin of a htuman being, and produces painful sores. The coast is indented with several fine bays. Beginning onl the north, the most important are Trinidad, Humboldt, Bodega, Tomales, Sir Francis Drake, San Francisco, Monterey, Estero, San Luis, San Pedro, and San Diego Bays. All these, except the Bay of San Francisco, open directly upon the ocean. San Francisco Bay is the best harbor on the Pacific Ocean, as well as the largest. It extends inland for about 60 miles, north and south, and is 14 miles wide at its broadest part. About 30 miles from its northern extremity it communicates with the Pacific through a strait two miles long, and about six miles wide, which breaks through the range of highlands which lines the coast at this point.

This entrance is very picturesque, and is known as the Golden Gate. The northern part of the bay is called San Pablo Bay, and communicates through the Straits of Carquinez, with Suisin Bay, 16 miles long and 5 miles wide, which is formed by the united waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. The city of San Francisco is situated on the west shore of the southern part of San Francisco Bay, just withiln the Golden Gate. Several towns lie along the shore, and four or five small islands lie in the bay.

The principal rivers of the State are the Sacramento and the San Joaquin.

The Sacrarmento River rises in the northern part of the State, near the foot of Mt. Shasta, and flows in a generally southern direction into Suisin Bay, through which it communicates with the Bay of San Francisco.

It is the most important river in the State, is 400 miles long, and is navigable for steamers for 300 miles. It flows through a valley about 50
miles wide, which is almost a perfect level, and is remarkably open. Its principal tributaries (commencing on the north) are the Pitt, Feather, Yuba, and American rivers, which rise along the western slope of the Sierra Nevada. Sacramento City is the principal place on the main river.

The San Joaquin River rises in the Sierra Nevada, near the centre of the State. It flows south for a short distance, and then, meeting the outlet of Tulare Lake, changes its course, and flows north-northwest into Suisin Bay, at the mouth of the Sacramento. It is about 350 miles long, and is navigable for about 200 or 250 miles. Its chief tributaries rise in the Sierra Nevada. They are the Calaveras, Stanislauis, Tuolumne, and Merced rivers.

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THiE GREAT REPUBLIC. The MAIoquelumne joins the Sacramento and San Joaquin at their junetion. It rises in the Sierra Nevada, almost due east from its mouth. The streams which flow into the Pacific (beginning on the north) are the Eel and Russian rivers, above San Francisco Bay, an(d the Salinas, Guiamas, Santa Inez, Santa Clara, Santa Anna, San Luis, San Diego, and Tia Juana risers-all small streams. The Colorado forms the southeast boundary of the State, and the Klanmath River, of Oregon, flows through the northwest. Several lakes lie in the State. The principal are Tulare, Clear, Owen Mountain, and Mono Lakes. Tulare Lake is 35 miles long, and empties its waters into the San Joaquin River. The rest are small lakes.

MINERALS. “The great and distinguishing feature of California is, however, its unexampled mineral wealth. The first discoveries of gold were made in 1848, when $10,000,000 were taken fromnt the mines, increasing to $40,000,000 in 1849, and upwards of $65,000,000 in 1853. No returns are made of the quantity taken foioi the mines, and the mnint records are the only official data existing upon the product for any portion of the Pacific coast. Various estimates have been made by mining engineers, bankers, and other intelligent and practical business men in San Francisco, and elsewhere in California, as to the total product of that State since 1848. These estimates vary from eight hundred millions to one billion. From the commencement of 1849 to the close of 1866, upward of seven hundred and eighty-five millions have been manifested at San Francisco for exportation, all of which, with the exception of sixty-five millions, appears to have been the product of California. How large a portion of gold found its way out of the State without being manifested for exportation, is, of course, a matter of conjecture, different authorities estimating it from one hundred to three hundred millions. But either estimate is sufficient to furnish an idea of the immensity of the mineral wealth of the State. Silver mines in the State are comparatively inconsiderable, yet quantities of that metal are annually obtained by separating it from gold, with which it is, in small portions, generally united when taken fromn the mines. The quicksilver mines of California are among the most valuable, and have, since their discovery, materially contributed to the prosperity of the mining interests, not only of California and the adjoining States, but also of Mexico and South America.

All the useful metals, such as iron, lead, copper, tin, and zinc, exist in this 1020

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CALIFOliNIA. region. Coal has been discovered in different localities, and marble, gypsum, and valuable building stone, are abundant. Some of the rarer and( more valuable minerals, as the agate, topaz, cornelian, amethyst, and, in some instances, the diamond, have been found.” It is stated that between the years 1849 and 1864, the total amount of treasure exported from California through the Custom House, was v-aluled at $695,684,879, and that the amount taken from the State, withlout being manifested at the Custom House, was about $150,000,000, making the total yield of the State during that period nearly $850,000,000. CLIMATE. “The climate of California is too muchll varied to be considered as a whole. It migh,lt be regarded almost as a heterogeneous mixture of the tropical and the arctic. From the capital city (Sacramento), under the noonday sutn of the summer solstice, with a temperature of frotii 90~ to 100~, exceeding the extreme summer heat of the Atlantic States, you will see the snows glistening on the Sierras at no great distance. And by taking the cars on the trans-continental railroad, a few hours travel will transport yout to an arctic landscape. On the other hand, embarking on the steamer for San Francisco, at two o’clock in the afternoon, and travelling, in the opposite direction, before night you are shivering in the cold sea-bireeze which sweeps up the bay. It is not necessary to journey so far in order to experience the same transition. You have only to cross any of the mountain walls which separate the ocean and bay from the interior, and which dam out the cold ocean atmosphere. There are essentially two climates in California, the land climate and the sea climate. The latter derives its low temperature from the ocean, the water of which, along the coast, stands at from 52~ to 54~ all the year round. The evenness of the ocean temperature is owing to a steady current from-the north, which is accompanied also by winds in the same direction during the entire summer season, or rather from April to October, inclusive. Almost daily, during this period, a deluge of cold, damp air, of the same temperature as the ocean over which it has passed, is poured upon the land. It is mostly laden with mist, in dense clouds, which it deposits at the foot-hills, and on the slopes of the highlands, or carries a short distance into the interior, wherever there is a break in the Relpoit of the Geiineal1

Land-Ofice. 1021

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. land wall. The land climate is as nearly as possible the opposite in every respect. In summer and autumn it is hot and dry. It undergoes various modifications from the configuration of the surface of the earth. Even the mountains, which retain the snow to a late period, present a high temperature in the middle of the day; and the presence of snow on their summits, ill June, is owing to the great mass which has accumulated on them, rather than to cold weather. A large d(listrict of territory lies between the jurisdiction of the two climates, and subject to their joint influence. It is composed chiefly of valleys surrounding the bay of San Francisco, and penetrating into the interior in every direction. There is no climate in the world more delightful than these valleys enjoy, and no territory more productive. Whilst the ocean prevents the contiguous land from being scorched in summer, it also prevents it from being frozen in winter. Hence, ice and snow are not common in the ocean climate. The difference in temperature is comparatively slight between summer and winter…. The absence of warm weather in the summer months is characteristic of the coast climate, and strikes a stranger forcibly. The most ordinary proramme of this climate for the year is as follows, beginning with the rainy season: The first decided rains are in November or December, when the country, after having been parched with drought, puts on the garb of spring. In January, the rains abate and vegetation advances slowly, with occasional slight frosts. February is spring-like, with but little rain. March and April are pleasant and showery, with an occasional hot day. In May the seabreeze begins, but does not give much annoyance. In June, just as warm weather is about to set in, the seabreeze comes daily, and keeps down the temperature. It continues through July and August, occasionally holding up for a day or two, and permitting the sun to heat the air to the sweating point. In September, the sea-wind moderates, and there is a slight taste of summer, which is prolonged into the next month. The pleasant weather often lingers in the lamp of winter, and is interrupted only by the rains of November or December.” SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. The soil of the valleys is fertile, and produces liberal crops. In the districts where water is scarce it does not yield so well. The mountain lands are generally poor and unfit for cultivation. The Natural Wealth of California. By T. F. Cronise. 1022

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CALIFORNIA. “The soil and climate of California, are eminently adapted to the growth of wheat, barley, oats, potatoes, hops, tobacco, hay, and sorglhutn; in certain localities, to corn cotton, the southern sugarcane, to almost every variety of garden vegetables cultivated east of the Rocky Mountains; to the apple, pear, plum, cherry, apricot, nectarine, quince, fig, and grape; and along the southern coast, to the orange, lemon, citron, olive, pomegranate, aloe, filbert, walnut, hard and soft-shell almond, currants, prunes, pine-apples, and the plantain, banana, cocoa-nut, and indigo. Strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, figs, grapes, and the hardier fruits, as the apple, peach, and pear, succeed well in every portion of the State. There are very fewv parts of the world where fruittrees grow so rapidly, bear so early, so regularly, so abundantly, and produce fruit of such size, and where so great a variety can be produced, and of such superior quality, as on the southern coast of California. The pear is more especially the fruittree of California. It thrives in all parts of the State; neither tree nor fruit is subject to any form of disease, the fruit being everywhere of delicious flavor and large size. Some trees produce annually 40 bushels of pears.

The varied climate on the Pacific, its freedom fromi frosts, severe cold, and furious storms, give it special advantages as a fruit-growing region; and although the trees grow miore rapidly and bear much earlier than on the Atlantic, they are not subject to early decay. The fruittrees of the missions, many of them 30 and 40 years old, are still in excellent condition, and full bearing, not having failed at any season during the past 20 years to produce good crops. Experience has established the fact, that the climate and soil of California are equal to any in the world in their adaptation to grape culture and the manufacture of wine. The yield of the grape has been larger, its freedom from disease greater, than in the most celebrated European vineyards. Three hundred varieties have been already successfully cultivated, including the choice foreign wine-producing grapes; and so diversified are the soil and climate that all wines can be produced here, and even superior in quality to the imported. The vine in California is not subject to the oidium or grape disease, frequently so destructive in other countries, nor is it liable to mildew. The vineyards of the State seldom, or never, yield less than 1000
pounds of grapes per acre, and even 20,000 pounds have been produced. The crops are regular every year, and as there are neither severe frosts, nor hail, rain, nor thunder-storms, from the budding of the vines until the grape is gathered, they are not liable to 1023

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. HYDRAULIC MINIG the accidents and drawbacks attending them in other places. In Europe, the vine is trained with a stock four feet high, and supported by a pole put up every year to which the vine is fastened. In California it stands alone, the labor thus far being nothing compared with that bestowed upon the best European vineyards. The number of vines already set, all of which will be in fulll bearing in three years, is estimated at nearly thirty millions. In 1863, the total number planted in vineyards, in the State, was nearly three and a half millions, showing, an increase of 25,000(),000 in four years. Hock, champagne, port and claret, constitute the varieties of wine already exported. No doubt is entertained that when the California wine-makers have had the necessary experience, and their wines have attained sufficient age, they will take rank with the very best, and that its mnanufacture on the Pacific coast is destined to become of vast importance, while series of vineyards, stretching from San D)iego to Mount Shasta, will within another quarter of a century add not only beauty, but substantial wealth to the State. Among the fruits cultivated on the southern coast during the present year, have been the orange, lemon, fig, lime, the English walnut, almond, olive, apricot, and nectarine, numbering 1024

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CALIFORNIA. in the aggregate between 400,000 and 500,000 trees, in a greater or less state of maturity. The cultivation of these and other fruits is rapidly extending in California with marked success.” * In 1870, there were about 2,500,000 acres of improved or cultivated land in the State. In the same year, the returns were as follows: Bushels of wheat,..

” barley, oats,…. rye,…. ” Indian corn,0 buckwheat,. ” peas and beans, peanuts,… ” Irish potatoes, Tons of hay,…… Pounds of hops,…. “
butter,… ” cheese,… Gallons of wine,…. ” brandy,.. Value of agricultural product Number of horses,… ” asses and mules, cattle,… “
sheep,… swine,.. Pounds of wool (estimated) …… Stockraising forms an important part of the industry of California, the climate being exceedingly favorable to it. Large numbers of horses, mules, oxen, beef-cattle, cows and sheep, are raised in the interior. COMMERCE. The City of San Francisco is the only port of any consequence in the State, but its situation is such as to render it one of the most iimportant places in the world. It is the great centre of the growing commerce of the Pacific Ocean, and occupies the same commercial position on the western coast of the Republic that New York does on the Eastern. The following statement will show the proportions which its commerce has assumed: “TRADE

AND COIMMIERCE OF SAN FRANCISCO, for the first six * The Natural Wealth of California. By T. F. Cronise. 65 1025 21,500,000 8,000,000 l200,000 16,000

1,000,000 1,0,000 214,000 78,000 1,400,000 350,000 570,000 5,000,000

3,000,000 4,000,000 300,000 $89,000,000 209,000 24,000 500,000 2,200,000

412,000 5,000,000 ……

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. months of 1868:-Imports from foreign countries, $8,000,000 gold; from the Atlantic States, $22,457,000, currency; an increase of $8,000,000 over the same period last year. The exports were-merchand(lise, $11,000,000; coin, $20,000,000; total, $31,000,000
gold. Tile duties on imports amounted to $4,028,522, and the receipts of internal revenue, $3,000,000. During these six months, 1550 vessels arrived, bringing 500,000 tons of freight. The arrivals of passengers by sea were 32,186; departures, 11,367; net gain, 20,819. Of the .$5,448,000
of merchandise shipped the first quarter of 1868, $4,316,000 was for some 50 articles of California produce, the principal items of which were as follows: wheat, $2,452,000; flour, $836,000; barley, $37,000; beans, $13,000; potatoes, $9000; borax, $10,000; quicksilver, $387,000; ores, $78,000; hides and skins, $116,000; wool, $186,000; leather, $41,000; wine, $42,000; brandy, $9000; and bread, $12,000. The gold deposits at the San Francisco Branch Mlint during the first three months of 1868, amounted to 60,000 ounces, and the coinage to $1,312,000. The total exports of treasure for the first quarter of the past three years have been as follows: 1866, $9,532,544; 1867, $9,825,304; 1868, $10,540,415. Tile exports of merchandise for 1867 were $22,465,903; and of treasure, $41,676,722.16. About $6,000,000 was shipped east by the United States sub-treasurer, making the total, $47,676,292, and the aggregate of treasure and merchandise, $70,142,195. Th)e total amount of treasure exported from 1849 to 1868, was $826,873,738.11.” * In 1869, the imports of the State were valued at $51,604,000, $36,104,000 being from the Atlantic ports of the Union, and $15,500,000 from foreign countries. The exports for the same period, exclusive of treasure, were upwards of $23,000,000. The arrivals of vessels at San Francisco during 1869 were as follows: From Atlantic ports of the United States, 146; from foreign ports, 3524; from Pacific ports of the United States, 2904. MANUFACTURES.

California is making rapid progress in manufactures. In 1860, the capital invested in them was $22,051,096, and the annual product, $68,253,228. In 1868, the reports of the assessors showed a vely heavy advance upon these figures. Over one million barrels of flour were produced. The woollen goods of the State have taken a high * American Year Book, vol. i. p. 293.

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CALIFORNIA. rank in the markets of the world, and nearly the whole demand of the Pacific coast for manufactured articles is supplied b)y the establishments of this State, and many of its goods are exported to Asia, Mexico, and Central and South America. In 1869, the mualufactures of the State were valued at $75,000,000. INTERNAL IMPROVEMIENTS. In 1868, there were 321 miles of completed railroads in the State, constructed at a cost of $24,200,000. The Pacific Railway, now in operation, extends fromt Sacramento City eastward into Nevada, with connecting lines from Sacramento to San Francisco and other points. The railroad interest of the State is rapidly advancing, and will soon be equal to its necessities. In 1870, there were 800 miles of completed railroads in the State. In 1865, there were in California 491 miles of turnpike, 62 toll bridges, and 78
ferries. The principal rivers are navigated by steamers, and stage routes extend through the most important parts of the State, not otherwise connected. EDUCATION. California has been very energetic in the cause of education. The school system of the State is under the supervision of a Superintendent of Public Instruction, who is elected by the people for four years. He is the executive officer of the State Board of Education, whilch consists of the Governor, the Superintendent of Public Instruction, the principal of the State Normal School, the Superintendents of schools in San Francisco, and in Sacramento, Santa Clara, and San Joaquin counties, and two professional teachers holding State dip]omas. The counties are under the supervision of County Superintendents, elected for two years. Each school district is managed by a Board of Directors, elected by the people. Certificates of competency for terms varying from the lifetime of the holder to one year, are granted by the State, City, and County Boards of Examiners. There is a State Normal School in successful operation. There are six colleges in California. The State University is located at Oakland. It was established in 1855, and is liberally endowed. The permanent school fiund amounted, in 1868, to $762,000, and yields an income of over $50,000 per annumi. In 1867, the total amount expended by the State for educational purposes was $1,168,583. In the same year, there were 971 public schools in the State, conducted by 1389 teachers, and attended by 61,227 pupils. 1027

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The public schools of San Francisco are distinct from those of tlhe State, and are not included in the above statement. PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS. The Stcte Prison is located at San Quentin. It is well conducted, blut is ill need of enlarged accommodations. In 1867, there were 692 convicts confined here. Tile I5isane Asyluin of California is at Stockton. It was opened in 1851. In October, 1867, it contained 769
patients. The Cctliforieiast Istitution for the Deaf, Dutmb and Blind is at San Francisco. It was opened in 1866, and in October, 1867, contained 48 p)upils. The State Reform-School is at Marysville, and is in successful ope ration. RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. Ini 1860, there were about 260 churches in California. The value of church property is not given. The State contains large numbers of Chinese settlers, who are Pagans.

LIBRARIES AND NEWSPAPERS. The libraries of California (other than private collections), contain about 200,000 volumes, more or less. In 1860, there were published in the State, 117 newspapers, and 4 magazines, with an aggregate annual circulation of 26,111,788 copies. Of these, 96 were political (22 being dailies), 6 religious, 10 literary, and 5
miscellaneous. FINANCES. In November, 1867, the public debt of the State was $5,126,500. The receipts of the Treasury for the fiscal year ending June 30th, 1867, wvere $3,595,232, and the expenditures for the same period, $2,954,233. All financial transactions in this State are in coin, or its equivalent. GOVERNMENT. Every male citizen of the United States, and every white male citizen of Mexico, who has become a citizen of the United States according to the terms of the treaty of Queretaro (May 30th, 1848), 1028

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CALIFORNIA. who is 21 years old, and has resided in the State six months and in the county thirty days, is entitled to vote at the elections. The Government is vested in a Governor, Lieutenanrt-Governor, Secretary, Treasurer, Comptroller, and AttorneyGeneral, and a Legislature consisting of a Senate (of 40 nmemnbers), and a House of Representatives (of 80
members), all chosen by the people. The State officers and Senators are elected for four years, and RIepresentatives for two years. Onehalf of the Senators retire biennially. The general election is held in September, and the Legislature meets biennially in Decembl)er. The judicial power of the State is vested in a Supreme Court, District Courts, County Courts, and ill Justices of the Peace. All judges are elected by thle people. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and four Associate Justices, elected for 10 years. Judges of the District Courts serve 6 years, and those of the County Courts 4 years. The seat of Governmenlt is established at Sacramento. The State is divided into 50 counties. HISTORY. The term Cctalifori,ia is said by some writers to be derived firomr two Spanish words, Calieate fore,alla, or horno, and to mean simply * a hot furnace.”

Other writers question this derivation. The Spaniards divided the country into two portions-Old California, which was then, as now, merely the Peninsula; and Upper, or New California, which included the present States of California and Nevada, and the greater part of New Mexico. “California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish navigator. In 1758, Sir Francis Drake visited its northern coast, and named the country New Albion. The original settlemnents in California were mission establishments, founded by Catholic priests for the conversion of the natives. In 1769, the mission of San Diego was founded by Padre Junipero Serra. “The mission establishments were made of adobe, or sun-burnt bricks, and contained commodious habitations for the priests, storehouses, offices, mechanic shops, granaries, horse and cattle pens, and apartments for the instruction of Indian youth. Around and attached to each, were, varying in different missions, from a few hundred to several thousand Indians, who generally resided in conrlical-shal)ed huts in the vicinity, their place of dwelling being generally called the 1029

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. rancheria. Attached to each mission were a few soldiers, for protection against hostilities fromnt the Indians. “The missions extended their possessions from one extreme of the territory to that of the other, and bounded the limits of one mission by that of the next, and so on. Though they did not require so much land for agriculture, and the maintenance of their stock, they appropriated the whole; always strongly opposing any individual who mig,ht wish to settle on any land between them. All the missions were under the charge of the priests of the order of San Francisco. Each mission was under one of the fathers, who had despotic authority. The general products of the missions were large cattle, sheep, horses, Indian corn, beans and peas. Those ill the southern part of California, produced also the grape and olive in abundance. The most lucrative product was the large cattle, their hid(les and tallow affording an active commerce with foreign vessels, and being, indeed, the main support of the inhabitants of the territory. From 1800 to 1830 the missions were in the height of their prosperity. Then, each mission was a little principality, with its hundred thousand acres and its twenty thousand head of cattle. All the Indian population, except the ‘Gentiles’

of the mountains, were the subjects of the padres, cultivating for them their broad lands, and reverencing them with devout faith. The wealth and power in possession of the missions, excited the jealousy of the Mexican authorities. In 1833, the Government commenced a series of decrees, which eventually ruined them. In 1845, the obliteration of the missions was completed by their sale at auction, and otherwise. “Aside from the missions, in California, the inhabitants were nearly all gathered in the presidios, or forts, and in the villages, called’Los Ptteblos.’ The presidios, or fortresses, were occupied by a few troops under the command of a military prefect or governor. The Padre President, or Bishop, was the supreme civil, military and religious ruler of the province. There were four presidios in Calafornia, each of which had under its protection several missions. They were respectively, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and San Francisco. WTithin four or five leagues of the presidios, were certain farms, called ranchios, which were assigned for the use of the garrisons, and as depositories of the cattle and grain which were furnished as taxes from the missions. Los Pueblos, or towns, grew up near the missions. Their first inhabitants consisted of retired soldiers and attaches of the army, many of whom married Indian women. Of the villages of this 1030

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CALIFORNIA. description, there were but three, viz: Los Angelos, San Jose, and Branciforte. In later times, the American emigrants established one on the Bay of San Francisco, called Yerl)a Buena, i. e., good herb, which became the nucleus of the flourishing city of Sanl Francisco. Another was established by Captain Sutter, on the Sacramento, called New Helvetia. The larger pueblos were under the government of an alcalde, or judge, in connection with other municipal officers. “The policy of the Catholic priests, who held absolute sway in California until 1833, was to discourage emigration. Hence, up to about the year 1840, the villages named comprised all in California, independent of those at the missions; anid at that time, the free whites and half-breed inhabitants in California numbered less than 6000 souls. The emigration from the United States first commenced in 1838; this had so increased from year to year, that, in 1846, Colonel Fremnont had but little difficulty in calling to his aid some five hundred fighting men. Some few resided in the towns, but a majority were upon the Sacramento, where they had immense droves of cattle and horses, and fine farms, in the working of which they were aided by the Indians. They were eminently an enterprising and courageous body of people, as none other at that time would brave the perils of an overland journey across the mountains. In the ensuing hostilities they rendered important services. At that period, the trade carried on at the different towns was quite extensive, and all kinds of dry goods, groceries and hardware, owing to the heavy duties, ranged about 500 per cent. above the prices in the United States. Mechanics and ordinary hands received from two to five dollars per day. The commerce was quite extensive, 15 or 20
vessels not unfrequently being seen in the various ports at the same time.

Most of the merchant vessels were from the United States, which arrived in the spring, and engaged in the coasting trade until about the beginning of winter, when they departed with cargoes of hides, tallow, or furs, which had kbeen collected during the previous year. Whale ships also touched at the port for supplies and to trade, and vessels from various parts of Europe, the Sandwich Islands, the Russian settlements, and China.” The Mexican revolution of 1822 overthrew the Spanish power in California, and made it a province of Mexico. The Government of that country directed its efforts to the task of secularizing the province, and finally stripped the fathers of their possessions and power. Severe measures were also practised towards the laity, and several efforts were made by the Californians to throw off the Mexican yoke, and establish 1031

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. their iildependence. They were finally quieted, and emigrants began to come out to the territory ill great numbers. During the years 1843, 1844, 1845, and 1846, the emigration was especially large, a very great proportion of the new settlers coming from the United States.

Early in 1846, a quarrel broke out between the authorities and the American settlers. The Mexican commander undertook to expel the American settlers, who at once flew to arms, under the lead of Colonel John C.

Fremont. By a series of bold and rapid movements the Americans made themselves masters of’ the greater part of the country, and proclaimed their independence of Mexico. At this juncture an American squadron, under Commodore Stockton, arrived on the coast with news of the declaration of war between the United States and Mexico. Several conflicts now occurred between the Americans and the Mexicans, the result being generally in favor of the formler, and at the close of the war the greater part of the territory was held by the United States. By the terms of the treaty of peace, Mexico cedled the territory of California to the United States for the sumII of $15, 000,000. The white population was now about 15,000. In February, 1848, gold was discovered on the farm of Colonel Sutter, in Coloma county, and it was soon found that the precious metal was widely distributed all over the State. An enormous emigration at once set in from all parts of North and South America, fromnt Europe, and from China. Iln about a year, the population of the territory was nearly a quarter of a million. A more reckless, daring, dangerous body of men never collected in any part of the world. An organized government became a necessity. General Riley, the military governor of the territory, smlemoiied a convention to meet at Monterey, on the 1st of September, 1849. This convention adopted a Constitution, which was ratified by the popular vote, and on the 9th of September, 1850, California was admitted into the Union as a sovereign State. The first years of the new State were marked by excessive violence and disorder. The principal classes of the inhabitants were the miners and gamblers. Crime of all kinds increased with frightfuil rapidity. In San Francisco especially, neither life nor property was safe. The authorities were either in league with the criminals, or incompetent to the task of putting a stop to the outrages from which the comtimunity suffered; and in 1855 the citizens took the law into their own hands, organized a “vigilance committee,” and by a rigorous adminis 1032

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CALIFORNIA. tration of justice brought the city to a condition of peace and order Since then it has never flagged in its career of prosperity. The growvth of the State has been unprecedentedly rapid, and is now not far behind the most prosperous Atlantic communities. The Pacific Railroad is doing muc(h to build it up, and by bringing it nearer, in point of time, to the East, will enable it to acquire with still greater facility those refining and ennobling elements of civilizationI, without which its material prosperity would be comparatively worthless. CITIES AND TOWNS.

Besides the capital, the most important places in the State are, San Francisco, San Jose, Marysville, Stockton, Nevada, Grass Valley, Petaluma, Yreka, Placerville, and Oakland. SACRAMENTO, The capital and second city of the State, is situated in the county of the same name, on the left bank of the Sacramento River, a short distance belowv the mouth of the American River, 75 miles in an air line northeast of San Francisco, and 120 miles by the river from that city. Latitude 38~ 34’ zN., longitude 121~ 26’ W.

The city lies in a level plain, and is regularly laid out. It has been raised ten feet above its original level, in order to protect it against the floods of the twio rivers, and for its further security an artificial wall has been built around the American River, 4 feet above high water in the Sacramento; the work cost $2o0,000. Sacramento has suffered severely from freshets, the most disastrous being, that of 1861-62, in which large amounts of property were destroyed. The street next to the river is called Front Street, the next Second Street, and so on; the streets crossing these at right angles are named from the letters of the Alphabet. The numbered streets run north and south. The city is about 3 miles in length, and is divided into four wards. The principal business houses lie within the portion bounded by Fifth, Sixth, H, and L streets. In the business portion, the houses are built principally of brick. The dwellings are mostly of wood, and many are provided with handsome grounds. The principal building is the new Capitol, which promises to be when completed the most magnificent edifice in the West, and one of the finest in the Union. The Couvrt Hotose, now used as a State Holse, is a handsome build(ling. The State A)griculttral Pavilion, 1033

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. erected by the citizens of Sacramento for the annual fairs of the State Agricultural Society, is one of the finest buildings in California. The benevolent and charitable institutions embrace several noble societies for doing good. Among these are the County Hospital, and the Howard Society. The schools of the city are excellent. There are about 11 public schools, and about 8 or 10 private schools, including the Sacramento College and 3 Female Seminaries. There are 3 public libraries in the city, containing nearly 40,000 volumes. The State Library contains over 20,000 volumes. Three daily newspapers are published here. The city contains 12 or 13 churches, and is lighted with gas, and is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870, the population was 16,484. Sacramento is the largest inland city of California, and is admirably situated for trade. It can be reached by steamers and sailing vessels throughout the entire year.

The Sacramento and its tributary the Feather River are navigable for small steamers above the city for a considerable distance. Sacramento, in consequence of its position, has become the point of supply for the great mining region of the State. It is connected with Sani Francisco by railway, and is the western terminus of the Central Pacific Railway, the eastern terminus of that road being near Salt Lake City, in Utah Territory. Railways to several parts of the State are under construction.

Sacramento was founded in the Spring of 1849, the central part of the town being one mile below Sutter’s Fort. It was originally called Nueva Helvetia. SAN FRANCISCO, The metropolis of the State, is situated on the west shore of the bay of the same name, in the county of San Francisco, 75
miles in an air line southwest of Sacramento, and 2500 miles in an air line from Richmond, Va., which is in about the same latitude. Latitude 37~

47’ 35” N., longitude 122~ 26’ 15” W. The city is located in a plain which slopes gently towards the bay, and is bounded by a number of hills at the back. The soil is sandy, and to the north are numerous sandhills. The city is regularly laid off, the streets crossing each other at right angles. Montgomervy street is the leading thoroughfare, and presents a handsome and attractive spectacle. California street is devoted to banking, brokerage, and insurance offices. On Stockton and Dupont streets, in the 1034

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CALIFORNIA. southern part of the city, are to be found many handsome residences. The first buildings of San Francisco were entirely of wood, but since the destructive fires that have several times laid the greater part of the city in ashes, brick and iron have been extensively used, and the more thickly settled portions are now substantially built. Many of the business houses are splendid fire proof structures. The city was originally built around a semicircular bay, its limits, Clark’s Point, on the north, and Rincon Point, on the south, being but a mile apart. This portion is now built up with heavy business houses, and the shore is lined with wharves supported upon piles driven into the river. Market street, a broad avenue, running southwest from the bay, divides the old and new portions of the city. San Francisco, like all the Pacific cities, presents an appearance of incompleteness, thou,lgh it is rapidly improving in this respect, and is already beginning to wear a metropolitan air. Mr. Samuel Bowles, thus writes of the city of to-day: “This is a very ridiculous and repulsive town, in some aspects, and a very fascinating and commendable one, in others, both materially and morally, physically and aesthetically.

Its youth is its apology in one regard, its wonder and its merit on the other. The location must have been chosen for its water, and not its land privileges. It is set upon the inside of a range of the purest sandhills, six or seven miles wide, blown up from the ocean, and still blowing up, between it and the bay. The main business streets are in the hollows, or on the flat land, nmade by pulling down the sand from the hills. But go out of these in any direction, and you are confronted by steep hills. Some of these are cut through, or being cut through; others are scaled, to make room for the spread of the town. The happy thought of winding the streets about their sides, which would have made a very picturesque and certainly get-around-able town, came too late. If but the early San Franciscans lhad thought of Boston, and followed tle cow-paths, what a unique, nice town they would have made of this! Only I fear there never was even an astray cow on these virgin sandhills, as innocent of verdure as a babe of sorrow or vice. The modern American straight line style was the order, no matter what was in front; and the result is that going about San Francisco is all collar and breeching work for man and beast. The consequence is, also, there are only two or three streets that you can think of driving out of town on. The only way to get up and down the others with a hlorse, is to go zig-zag from one side to the other. Some of the principal residence streets 1035

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. are after this fashion, however; I found our friend, Rev. Horatio Stebbins, of the Unitarian Church, here, holding on by main strength to a side hill that runs up at an angle of something like thirty degrees. And so they run up and down, and the city is straggling loosely over these hills for several miles in all directions. Some of the highest of the knobs are being cut down, and this leaves the early liouses,-that is, those built four or five years ago,-away up one hundred feet or more in the air, and reached by long flights of steep steps. “Wherever the hillsides and tops are fastened with houses or pavements, or twice daily seduced with water, there the foundations are measurably secure, and the deed of the purchaser means somrethiOng; but all elsewhere, all the open lots and unpaved paths are still undergoing the changing and creative process. The daily winds swoop upl) the soil in one place, and deposit it in another in great masses, like drifts of snow. You will often find a suburban street blocked up with fresh sand; and the owner of vacant lots needs certainly to pay them daily visits in order to swear to title; and the chance is anyway that, between one noon and another, he and his neighbor will have changed properties to an indefinite depth. Incidental to all this, of course, are clouds of sand and dust through all the residence and open parts of the city, making large market for soap and clothes-brushes, and putting neat housekeepers quite in despair for their furniture. Naturally enough, there is a looseness on the subject of cleanliness that would shock your oldfashioned New England housewives.

“But then, as compensation, the winds give health, keeping the town fresh and clean; and the hills offer wide visions of bay and river, and islands and sister hills,-away out and oni with varying life of shipping, and manufactures, and agriculture; and, hanging over all, a sky of azure with broad horizons. Oceanward i Lone Mountain Cemetery, covering one of the hills with its scrawny, low-running, live oak shrub tree, and its white monuments, conspicuous among which are the erections to those martyrs to both western and eastern civilization and progress,-Broderiek, the mechanic and senator, James K~ing of William, the editor, and Baker, the soldier. Here is the old mission quarter, there the soldiers’ camp, yonder, by the water, the bristling fort, again the conspicuous and generous Orphan Asylum, monument of the tenderness and devotion of the wonmen of the city, and to the left of that still, the two Jewish Cemeteries, each with its I 0 “DJ6

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CALIFORNIA. appropriate and tasteful burial chapel. No other American city hol(ls in its very centre such sweeping views of itself and its neighbor hood. “Then the little yards around the dwellings of the prosperous, even of thbse of moderate means, are made rich with all the verdure of a green-house, with only the cost of daily watering. The most delicate of evergreens; roses of every grade and hue; fuchsias vigorous and high as lilac bushes; nasturtiums sweeping over fences and up house walls; flowering vines of delicate quality, unknown in tlhe East; geraniums and salvias, pansies and daisies, and all the kindred summer flowers of New York and New Eng,land, grow and blossom under these skies, throughout the whole year,-the same in December and January as in June and August, -with a richness and a profilsion that are rarely attained by any out-door culture in the East. The public aqueducts furnish water, though at considerable expense, and pipes convey and spread it in fine spray all over yard and garden. The result is, every man’s dooryard in the city is likle an eastern conservatory; an(l little humble cottages smile out of this city of sandhills and dust, as green and as yellow, and as red and as purple, as gayest of garden can make them. There is no aristocracy of flowers here; they greet you everywhere in greatest profusion, and are tender solace to home-sick heart, and cheap and sweet tonic to weary brain. “Kindred contrasts force themselves upon the observant stranger, in the business and social life of the town. Some of the finest qualities are mingled with others that are both shabby and’shoddy.’ There is sharp, full development of all material powers and excellencies; wealth of practical quality and force; a recklessness and rioting with the elements of prosperity; much dash, a certain chivalric honor combined with carelessness of word, of integrity, of consequence; a sort of gambl)ling, speculating, horse-jockeying morality,-orn of the uncertainties of mining, its sudden heights, its equally surprising depths, and the eager haste to be rich,-that all require something of a re-casting of relationships, new standards, certainly new charities, in order to get the unaccustomed mind into a state of candor and justice. People who know they are smart in the East, and come out here thinking to find it easy wool-gathering, are generally apt to go home shorn. Wall street can teach Montgomery street nothing in the way of’ ibulling’ and’bearing,’ and the’ corners’ made here require both quick and long breath to turn without faltering. 1031,

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ” Mfen of mediocre quality are no better off here than in older cities and States. Ten or fifteen years of stern chase after fortune, among the mines and mountains, and against the new nature of this original country, has developed men here with a tougher and more various experience in all the temporalities of life, and a wider resource for fighting all sorts of’tigers,’ than you can easily find among the present generation in the Eastern States. Nearly all the men of means here to-day have held long and various struggle with fortune, failing once, twice or thrice, and making wide wreck, but buckling on the armnor again and again, and trying the contest over and over. So it is throughout the State and the coast; I have hardly met an old emigrant of‘49 and‘50, who has not told me of vicissitudes of fortune, of personal trials, and hard work for bread and( life, that, half-dreamed of before coming here, he would never have dared to encounter, and which no experience of persons in like position in life in the East can parallel. “aIn consequence partly of all this training, and partly of the great interests and the wide regions to be dealt with, the men I find at the ]lead of the great enterprises of this coast have great business power,a wide practical reach, a boldness, a sagacity, a vim, that I do not believe can be matched anywhere in the world. London and New York and Boston can furnish men of more philosophies and thleories,-men who have studied business as a science as well as practised it as a trade,-but here are the men of acuter intuitions, and more daring niatures; who cannot tell you why they do so and so, but who will do it with a force that commands success. Such men have built up and direct the California Steam Navigation Company, that is to the waters of this State what the Oregon Company is to those of that, commanding the entire navigation, and furnishing most unexceptionable facilities for trade and travel; the California and Pioneer Stage Companies, that equally command the stage travel of the coast;“the woollen mills of this city; the Wells & Fargo Express Company; the great machine shops of Pacific street; the Pacific Mail Steamship Company; and the great private banking houses, of which there are many and most prosperous. Much British capital is invested in banking here; not only in original houses, but through branches of leading bankers in London, India, and British Columbia. But chief of the banks is the Bank of California, with two millions of capital, divided into only forty shares of fifty thousand dollars each, and owned by fewer than that number of persons, who represent a total property of thirteen 1038

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CALIFORNIA. millions (gold). This institution does about half the banking of the city, and its average cash movement every steamer day, in shipments of bullion and drafts, is five millions of dollars. It keeps the best commercial and financial writer of the coast in its employ, has agents in all the centres of productive wealth in the Pacific States, invests, directly or indirectly, in most of the leading enterprises of the State, has an eye out for the politics and religion of the country, and, to a very considerable extent,‘runs’ California every way.” The principal buildings are the City Hiall, fronting upon the Plaza or Portsmouth square; the United States Castom House, in which is located the Post Office; the United States Mfarine Hospital; the United States District Court Building; the K:zited States JIint; the lericantile Library Building; the Masonic and Odd Fellows’ Halls. Some of these are elegant structures, and would do credit to any eastern city. There are upwards of 50 church edifices in San Francisco. Some of these are very handsome, and are among the principal ornaments of the city. There are 3 High Schools, 8

Grammar Schools, and 24 Primary Schools in San Francisco. The amount expended annually by the city for the free education of children averages about $210,000. Some of the School buildings are among the finest in the country. The city also contains about 75 excellent and flourishing private schools. There are also several public libraries in the city; 46
newspapers and periodicals are published here: 9 are daily; 26 weekly; 3
triweekly; 2 semiweekly; 7 monthly; and 2 semi-monthly. These include journals published in the French, Spanish, Italian and German languages.

The benevolent and charitable institutions are numerous, liberally supported, and well conducted. They embrace the United States Jiar,ine Hospital, the State Institution for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind, the City and County Hospital, several Orphan Asylums, and seyoral societies for the relief of suffering and distress. The principal cemeteries are Calvary and Lone Mountain Cemetery. The latter is very beautiful. The Cemetery of the Old Mission, a few miles from the city, is interesting, as is also the Mission itself. It was built in 1776, and is constructed of adobe in the old Spanish style. The hotels of San Francisco are excellent, and two of these, the Lick Iouse and Occide, tal Hotel, are among the finest and best managed lhouses in the Union. The principal houses are the Grand Lick.

Occidental, Russ, Cosmopolitan, and Continental. 1039

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The places of amusemient are numerous. There are 3
firstclass theatres. The distant points of the city are connected by a street railway. The city is lighted with gas, and is supplied with pure water fron Mountain Lake, which lies about 321 miles west of the corporate limits. It possesses an efficient police force, and a reliable and well managed fire department, consisting of hand and steam engines. It is governed by a Mayor and Council. In 1870 the population was 149,482, making it the tenth city of the Republic. San Francisco contains a large population of Chinese. These num ber at present about 15,000, and inhabit a distinct quarter-the dirtiest and most disorderly-of the city. They are principally men, but few women of their own race being among them. A recent writer thus sketches the “Chinese Quarter:” “We could hardly realize that we were still in the United States, the whole surroundings were so unfamiliar. Chests of tea covered with hieroglyphics, piles of curious shaped and colored garments, formed a fitting background for the noiseless movements of the attendants as they went about their work. The atmosphere was heavy with opium smoke, rising in curling clouds from the tiny pipes held by two impassive figures seated on either side of the little table, which held the inevitable lamp and the tiny transparent cups to be found in every Chinese domicile. Mr. Choy Chew, himself, a courteous, agreeable gentleman, seemed a vision, the creature of Dreamland, as he sat perched upon a high stool opposite our party. His smooth face, shaven head and pigtail, the dark blue color and curious fashioning of his broad cloth’ blouse,’ and, above all, his restless, gleaming black eyes, were in marked contrast to the familiar appearance of the gentlemen of our party, with their bearded faces, closely cut hair, and American style of dress. “It was hard to shake off the feeling that this was but a vision of Shadow-land. WAVe looked out of the windows, but gained no help there, for the street was full of quickly moving figures, clad in the same odd attire, with their boat-shaped shoes, walking noiselessly up and down, intent on their own affairs. ” At a few words-all tang and chang and yang, except those that were ski and chi-an oldish Chinaman handed to us, on a tea-box lid, some curious, dried, brown objects, not unlike black walnuts in appearance. Following Mr. Choy Chew’s example, and crushing them between our fingers, there developed an inner kernel, resembling a dried prune 1040

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CALIFORINIA. in looks and taste. These we were informed were a species of Chinese firuit. Our host then wrote for us, on Chinese paper, his name and address in English and Chinese, using a camel’s-hair brush and India ink, and wvriting (or painting would be a more applicable term) with as great rapidity as though the best Gillott pen and writing fluid were his implements. “The evening previous to this visit, while prowling around Sacramento street, and watching the curious Celestials in their every-day life, our attention was attracted by a singular arrangement on a doorstep, and we stopped for a nearer view. Nine tiny lights were arranged after this fashion upon the two ends and in the middle of the door-stone. While pondering and commenting, the door suddenly opened, disclosing a Chinaman with a bowl containing ashes and fire in one hand, in the other a huge wisp of burning scented paper. This he waved over the tiny lights, performed some rapid hocus pocus, bumped his head on the (loorsill, and vanished, the door closing with the same quiet celerity which marked its opening. The lights burned brighter, and save for that no token remained of this performance. We looked at each othler more bewildered than before, and took up our line of progress in a dazed manner, mentally querying whether we had not been uniconsciously dropped into some strange land, and not quite recovering our equanimity until some distance lay between us and the scene which so puzzled us. “With this occurrence vividly before us, we queried of Mr. Choy Chlew as to what it might mean. He told us that their people worship the moon; that once a year, when the moon is’at its bigness and roundest,’ they’make holiday;’ and that evening had been the fulness of the harvest moon; so their people had celebrated it, and the performance we had witnessed was a burning of inicense in honor of pale Cynthia. We then inquired if strangers would be allowed to visit the Chinese temples, and were told they had no temples in America, but only miserable little’joss-hlouses,’ where we would find not much to interest.

If, however, we would take the trouble to go, there was one up a court, just above Stockton street. And so we made our adieux, exchanging shakes of the hand with one after another who came forward smiling effusively, and departed to find the’josshouse.’ On the way we meet How Yang, an acquaintance made the day before, and under his guidance we proceeded to the court, into a 1041 66

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lTHE GREAT REPULBLIC. little house, up stairs to a back-roomn, entering through a small ante room; and here we found’Joss.’ So far as we could learn,‘Joss’ is a corruption of the Spanish’Dios,’ and stands as a generic term for gods. The worship we saw, and that which is generally performed, seems to be of an appeasing nature. The evil spirits are those who are worshipped-those who will do hlarm if not conciliated by offerings and incense-burninigs and genuflections. The room was a small one: all oldish and exceedingly dirty’ Chinee’ (California vernacular) was clearing up generally, making the toilet of the exceedingly ugly and saturnine-looking idolship that sat in the centre of a long, low table covered with cloths stiff with quaint embroideries. A large china bowl, very similar to a rmamnmothl punch bowl, was filled with ashes, in which were’joss-sticks’

burning slowly, and filling the air with their heavy, incense-like perfume. Round the room, in every possible place, hung strips of paper, of that red color so well known to us all on the outside of packs of fire-crackers, and covered with apparently identical characters. These are the prayers, written out and pinned up in quantities. In one corner stood an uncouth representation of a tiger, the jawns widely distended and stuffed full of comestibles; rats and raw meat seeming to hold the chief place. This is to provide against probable hunger on the part of Mr.

Tiger, and possible devouring of humanity. But for the all-pervading perfumed smoke fron the burning’joss-sticks,’ the air of the room would have been unbearable. Outside the door, in the little ante-room, was another bowl, also stuckl full of burning sticks. ” We were told that at certain seasons this room is filled to overflowing with the articles of fbod brought and offered to their idols. “All the intelligent Chinamen we met deprecated our intention of going to see the’josshouse,’ saying it was not worth while; that they had no place of worship in this country; that what were here were only temporary substitutes. The men do not seem reverent. How Yang, we noticed, looked round the place with even more carelessness than we did, and seemed to feel utterly indifferent, and certainly was or pretended to be entirely ignorant as to the name and title of the p)residing deity, and could not or would not answer any of our niumerous questions. “W We have since seen it stated that the women among the Chinese, as in most commnunities, are the devout worshippers; and we have also heard that they are impelled to extra exertion in the matter by the fond belief that in the fliture condition the most religious will be 1042

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CALIFORNIA. elevated from feminine inferiority to masculine superiority-a belief, which, as the Chinese have very little respect for women, and treat them with neglect and contumely, gives great comfoirt-a comfort that possibly some of our strong-minded sisters might likle to share, for, doubtless, it would afford huge satisfaction to those who struggle and strive after unattainable masculine prerogatives here to know that in a future state these will all be theirs of right and title. “W\re inquired closely of various residents of San Francisco who emnploy’Chinee’ servants as to their qualifications and the satisfaction they give. In all cases the answers were favorable. They are docile, quick, honest, and reliable.

0 Biddy-ridden housekeepers! can it be that a day of deliverance is dawning? Did ever Norah or Biddy prove at once quick to learn and docile, honest and thoroughly reliable? Chlinameni, however, are not remarkably cleanly, though they can be made so, but of themuseives do not care for cleanliness. Neither godliness nor its next virtue has had any power over them. A friend told us that for delicious cooking she would put a Chinese cook foremost. One peculiarity is, that owing to the national low cstimate of women, it promotes comfort to have many of the necessary orders promulgated directly from the gentleman of the houselhold. A rather amusing incident came to outr notice, illustrative of thle difference it makes how one looks at a thing. One lady remarked, in a most eniphatic way, that one thing she would not permit, and that was to allow her Chinese cook to wear his queuie dowi, his b(ack while about her premises.

She had, after much difficulty, succeeded in obliging John’ to keep his queue bound around his head, and was triumphant. Another lady, aciropos to the same subject, remarked that thlere was GLte thlin, personls employing Chinese servants oughlt to be most particular about: that it was a sign of intense disrespect and contempt whel a Chinaman wore his pigtail wrapped round his head, and never should this be allowed by a mistress!‘Where ignorane is bliss,’ probably applied in the first case; but the ladly’s self-gratuilation on her success was extremely comical to us when we had thle’ cue’ to the arrangement of the queue. ” In laundry-work these people excel; we watched them quite frequent]ly-, and saw that in this worrisome portion of domestic labor they were mo-t competent. They d(lo most of the washing and iroiling for San Francisco-do them cheaply (according to California rates) and well. To be sure their imiode of sprinklig is uniqae, and not quite pleasant to thilnk about, Ibut it is thoroughly successfll as to 1 043

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TIlE GREIA’l’ REPUBLIC. results. We stopped one mnorning at lo Sun’s establishment. With the uniform good humor that greeted all our p)ryings, the busy ironers looked up, nodded, and smiled,‘towv do?” Walkl in,’ and went on assiduously with the piece in hand, evidently appreciating that we were’lookers oni in Vienna.’ A large bowl of water stood beside the ironi; the ironer stooped his face down into it, taking up a imoutlful of water, and by the action of the tongue against the teeth, ejected it in a fine spray like miist equally over the article to be sprinkled. Two mouthfuls thoroughly and uniformly dampened the piece, and then he cnomnmienced to iron. “On Sundays this portion of the city is alive; the barber shops are crowded with customers waiting their turn to be freely shaven, and to have their queues rebraided. The gambling houses, whose name is legion, overflowv, the dreary squeak of the so-called music resounds on every side. In many shops and workrooms labor is going on; shioe-i-akiIg, cigar-rolling, and similar avocations are being pursued(l.” San Francisco being the principal city on the Pacific coast is one of the most important conmmrercial centres on the coast. It is coinnected with Omnaha, Nebraska, by the Pacific Railway, and by railway with the most inmportant cities of the State. Lines of steamers ply between the city and the towns on the bay, and along the navigalte rivers emptying into the bay. It has steamship communiication with the principal ports on the Pacific coast, with New York, via Panama, and with Japan and China. It is the centre of a large and growing commerce with all parts of the world. The statistics for the first six months of the year 1868, and for 1869, having been already presented in the section relating to the commerce of California, may be passed by here. In the same pla(e the reader will find the returns of the shipment of treasure fromn this place. San Francisco was first settled in 1776, by the Splaniards, who built a mission and established a Presidio here. The place was called “Yerba Buena,” or “good herb,” from a l)lant of supposed mnedicinal virtue, which grew in great quantities in the neighborhood. In 1839, it was laid out as a town. In 1845, it contained 150 inhabitants. The attention of American settlers was drawn to it about this time, and by 1847, the population had increased to 500. The result of the war between the United States and Mexico made California an American Territory, and it was about this time that the town changed its name to San Francisco. In December, 1847, gold was discovered 1044

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CALLIFORNI A. CAPE IIORIN. in California. The news was scattered over the civilized world the next spring, an(d emigrants began to pour in from every country. By the middle of 1849, the town contained a population of 5000, the larger portion being mere adventurers, who were of no permanent advantage to the place. In 1850, the city of Sai Francisco was incorporated. It has grown rapidly, and having passed successfully thliough the stormy (lays of its pioneer history, is now in the enjoyment of a solid prosperity which promises to inake it one of the greatest cities of the world. SAN JS S A,N JO0S E. In Santa Clara county, is the third city of the State. If’lies in the lovely valley of Santa Clara, on tihe ri(ght bank of the Guadaloupe River, about 8 miles above the head of San Francisco Bay, and about 50 miles south-southeast of San Francisco. It is the most beautiful i)lace on the Pacific coast, and lies in the “garden district” of the State, and is the centre of a large trade. It is laid off regularly, and is wvell built. It contains somie fine public buildings, and a number of elegant )private residences. The climate is one of almost perpetual spring, and the valley is noted for its great beauty. The city contains a handsome new Co)?,tt House, the largest and 1045

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‘l THE GREATR REPUBLIC. finest in the State, 7 churches, 3 newspaper offices, several public and private schools, including the female College of Notre Dame, and a good hotel. It is lighted with gas, and is supplied with water by means of artesian wells. It is governed by a Mayor and Council, and in 1870, contained a population of 9089. The port of San Jose. is at Alviso, on the bay, 7 miles distant. San Jose was founded in the early part of the present century. It was incorlporated as a city in 1850, and was at one time the capital of California. MISCELLANIES. SAN

FRANCISCO IN 1848-9. In the early spring of this year (1848), occasional intelligence had been received of the finding of goldcl in large quantities among the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada. Small parcels of tlhe precious metal had also been forwarded to San Francisco, while visitors from the mines, and some actual diggers arrived, to tell the wonders of the region and the golden gains of those engaged in exploring and working it. In consequence of such representations, the inhal)itants began gradually, in bt)ands and sing,ly, to desert their previous occupations, and betake themselves to tlhe American River and(l otlher auriferous parts of the great Sacramento Valley. Labor, firom the deficiency of hands, rose rapidly in value, and soon all business and work, except the most urgent, was forced to be stopped. Seamen deserted from their ships in the bay, and soldiers from the barracks. Over all the country the excitement was the same. Neither threats, punishment, nor moiney could keep men to tlheir most solemn engagemenits. Gold was the irresistible magnet that drevw human souls to the place whlere it lay, rudely snapping asunder the feeblei ties of affection and duty. Avarice and thle overweening desire to be suddenly rich, fromi whlence spraing thle hope and moral certainty of being so, grew into a disease, and the infection spread on all sides, and led to a general migratioli of every class of the coimmunIity to tlhe golden quarters. The dailv laborer, who had worked for the good and at the command of another, for one or two dollars a day, could not be restrained f’rom flying to the happy spot wlhere hle could earn six or ten times the amount, and might possibly gain a hundred or even a thousand times the sumii in one lucky day’s chance.

Then the life, at worst, promised to be one of contiiiual adventure and excitement, and the miner was ihis own master. WThile this was the case with the co)mioi laboreri, his employer, wanting his services, suddenly found his occupation at an end; wlhile shol)pkeepers and the like, depenldent on both, dliscovered themselves in the same I)redicamient. Thle glowing tales of thle successful miners all the while reached their ears, and threw their own steady and lIarge gains compaiatively in the shade.

Tihey therefore could do no better, in a pecuniary sense even, for themselves, than to hasten after thleir old servants, and share in their new labor and its extraordinary gains, or pack up their former business stock, and, travelling with it to thle mines, oplen their new slhop)s, and stores, and stalls, and dispose of their old articles to the fortunate diggers, at a rise of 500 or 1000 per cent. 1046

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CALIFO L{N I A. In the month of May, it was computed that at least 150
people had left San Francisco, and every day since was adding to their number. Some were occasionally returning from the auriferous quarter; but they had little time to stop and expatiate upon what they had seen. They had hastily come back, as they had hastily gone away at first, leaving their household and business to waste and ruin, now to fasten more properly their houses, and remove goods, family and all, at once to the gold region. Their hurried movements, more even than the words they uttered, excited the curiosity and then the eager desire of others to accompany them. And so it was. Day after day the bay was covered with launches, filled with the inhabitants and their goods, hastening up the Sacramento. This state of matters soon came to a head; and master and man alike hurried to the placeres, leaving San Francisco, like a place where the plague reigns, forsaken by its old inhabitants, a melancholy solitude.

On the 29th of May, the Californian published a fly-sheet, apologizing for the future non-issue of the paper, until better days came, when they might expect to retain their servants for some amount of remuneration, which at present was impossible, as all, from the “subs” to the “devil,” had indignantly rejected every offer, and gone off to the diggings. “The whole country,” said the last editorial of the paper, “from San Francisco to Los Angeles, and from the sea shore to the base of the Sierra Nevada, resounds with the sordid cry of gold! GOLD!! GOLD!!!-while the field is left half planted, the house half built, and everything neglected but the manufacture of shovels and pick-axes, and the means of transportation to the spot where one man obtained $128 worth of the real stuff in one day’s washing, and the average for all concerned is twenty dollars per diemi.”

Within the first eight weeks after the “diggings” had been fairly known, $250,000 had reached San Francisco in gold dust, and within the next eight weeks $600,000 more. These sums were all to purchase, at any price, additional supplies for the mines. Coin grew scarce, and all that was in the country was insufficient to satisly the increased wants of commerce in one town alone. Gold dust, therefore, soon became a circulating medium, and after some little demur at first, was readily received by all classes at $16 an ounce. The authorities, lhownever, would only accept it in payment of duties at $10 per ounce, with the privilege of redemption, by payment of coin, within a limited time. When subsequently immigrants began to arrive in numerous bands, any amount of labor could be obtained, provided always a most unusually high price was paid for it. Returned diggers, and those who cautiously had never went to the mines, were then also glad enough to work for rates varying from $12 to $30 a dlay; at which terms capitalists were somewhat afraid to commlionce any heavy undertaking. The hesitation was only for an instant. Soon all the labor that could possibly be procured was in ample request at whatever rates were demanded. The population of a great State was suddenly flocking in upon them, and no preparations lad hitherto been made for its reception.

Building lots had to be surveyed, and streets graded and plankedi-hills levelled-lhollows, lagoons, and the bay itself piled, capped, filled up and planked-lumber, bricks, and all other building materials provided, at most extraordinarily high prices houses built, finished, and furnished-great warehouses and stores erected wharves run far out into the sea nimnberless tons of goods removed from ship board, and delivered and shipped anew everywhere-and ten thousand other things had all to be done without a moment’s unnecessary delay. Long before 104,7

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. these thlings were completed, the sandlills and barren ground around the town were ooverspread with a multitude of canvas, blanket, and bough-covered tents th e ba y w as alive with shipping and small craft, carrying passengers and goods backlwac rd and forward-tlie uniplanlked, ungraded, unformed streets (at one time mtoving heaps of dIry sand and dust; at another, mIiry abysses, whose treacherous deptlhs sucked in horse and dray, and occasionally manl himself) were crowded wit h human beings from every corner of the universe and of every tongue-all excited and busy, plotting, speaking, working, buying and selling town lots, and bea ch a nd v water lots, shliploads of every kind of assorted merchandise, the shil)s themiselves, if they could-thloughl that was not often gold dust in hundred weighlts, ae ranchles square leagues in extent, wiith their thousands of cattle-allot ments i n hundreds of contemplated towns, alieady prettily designed and laid out on 1patper-and, in short, speculating, and gambling in every branch of modern commerce, and in many strange things p)eculiar to the time and place. Aid erveyboydy ei(dcte amoJzey, uatid wecs suddeilly g~iowciig’icli. Tile loud voices of the eager seller and as eager buyer-the laughl of reckless joy-tlthe bolcld accents of successful speculation-thle stir and hlum of active, hlur riedl labor, as man and brute, hliorise and bullockl, and their guides, struggled and mianaged( thlroolugh hleaps of loose rubbishl, over hills of sand, and among deceivilng deep) mudl pools and swamps, filled the amazed newly arrived immigrant with an almost appalling sense of the exuberant life, energy, and enterprise of the place. He breathed quick and faintly his limbs grew weakli as water-and his heart sunk within himi as hlie thoug,lt of the dreadful conflict, when hle approached and nilg,led amiong that confused and terril)le business battle. Gamibli(ng saloons, glitteriing like faiiy palaces, like them suddenly sprang into existence, studding nearly all sides of the plaza, and every street in its neighborhood. As if intoxicating drinks from the well plenished and splendid bar they each contained were insufficient to gild the scene, music al(lddedl its loudest, if not its sweetest, chlarms; and all was mad, feverish miirthl, where fortunes were lost and won, upon the green cloth, in the twinkling of an eye. All classes gaml)ed in those ldays, from the starchiest white neck-clotlhed( professor to thle veriest black rascal that earned a dollar for bl)acking, massa’s boots. Nobody had leisure to think, even for a moment, of his occupation, and hlow it was viewed in Chriistian lands. T’he heated brain was never allowed to get cool while a bit of coin or dust was left. These saloons, therefore, were crowded, night and day, by impatient revellers who never could satiate themselves with excitement, nor get rid too soon of their golden heaps.

THiE IGILANCE COMMITT’rEE. By thlle beginning of 1851, San Francisco lhadl become crowded withl adventurers of all sorts and from every land. Many were professional criminals, and as tlhe law failed to protect the respectable settlers against thlleir outrages, the citizens w-ere compelled, for their own preservation, to take the matter into tlltir own handi(s. Around Clark’s Point and vicinity, in San Francisco, was the rendezvous of these villains. “Low drinking and dlancing houses, lodging and gambling houlses of the same mean class. the constant scenes of lewdness, (drilnkenness, and strife, abounded in the quarter mentioned.

Tlhe daily and nighltly occupants of these vile abodes hlad every one, more or less, been addicted to crime; and many of 1048

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CALIlFO RNIA. them were at all times ready, ibr the most trifling consideration, to kill a man or fire a town. During the early hours of nighlt, when the Alsatia was in revel, it was daingerous in the highest degree for a single p)erson to venture within its bounds. Even the police hardly dared to enter there; and il they attempted to apprehend some known individuals, it was always in a numerous, strongly-arnlied company.

Seldom, however, were arrests mDade. The lawless inhabitants of tlhe place united to save their luckless brothers, and generally mianaged to drive the assailants away. AWhlen the different fires took place in San Francisco, banlds o,’ plunderers issued from this great hlaunt of dissipation, to hlelpl) tlhenmselves to whatever money or valuables lay in thleir way, or which they could possibly secure. Aith these they retreated to their dlens, and defied detection or apl)rehlension. Fire, however, was only one mieans of attaining thleir ends. The most daring burglaries were committed, and houses and persons rifled of their valuables. Where resistance was ma(lde, the bownie-knife, or the revolver settled matters, and left the robber unmolested.,Iidniglit assaults, ending in murder, were common. And not only were these’ deeds perpetrated under the shade of night; but even in daylight, in the highlways and byways of the country, in the streets of the town, in crowded l)ars, gambling saloons and lodclging, houses, crimes of an equally glaring chlaracter were of constant occurrence. People at that period generally carried during all hours. iand lwherever they hal)pened to l)e, loaded firearms albout thleir persons; but these weatlpons aLvailed lotlling ag’ainst the sudden stroke of the’ slutng-slhot,’ the plunge and rip of the knifte, or the secret aiming of the pistol. No decent man was in safety to walk the streets after dark; while at all hours, both of night and day, his property was jeopardized by incendiarism Lad burglary. ‘All this whlile, the law, whose supposed’ majesty’ is so awful in other countries, was here only a matter for ridicule. The police were few in number, and poorly as well as irregularly paid. Some of them were in league with the criminals themselves, and assisted these at all times to elude justice. Subsequent confessions of criminals, on the eve of execution, implicated a considerable num l)er of people in various highl and low departments of the executive. Bail was readily accepted in the most serious cases, where the security tendered was absolutely worthless; and where, vwhlenever necessary, both principal and cautioner quietly disappeared. Tihe prisons likewise were small and insecure; and thlough, filled to overflowing, could no longer contain the crowds of appre hlended offenders. When these were ultimiately brought to trial, sellom could a conviction be obtained.

Fromn teclhnical errors on the part of thle pIrosecutors, laws ill understood and worse applied, false swearing of the witnesses for the prisoners, absence often of the chief evidence’for the prosecutiow, dishonesty of jurors, incapacity, weakness, or venality of the judge, and fiom many other causes, the cases generally broke down, and the prisoners were fieed. Not one, criioiinal 7hctd yet been e.recuted. Yet it was notorious that, at this period, at, least 100 murders had been committed within the space of a few months; while innumerable were the instances of arson, and of theft, robbery, burglary, and assault w-ith intent to kill.

It was evident that thle offenders defied and laughedl at all thle puny efforts of the authorities to control them. The ted(liouls processes of legal tribtunals had no terrors for them. As yet everything had 1)eenl pleasant and safe, and they saw no reason why it should not always be so.

Sanl Francisco had just been destroyed, a fifth time, by conflagrationI.

The cities of Stockton and Nevada had likewise shared tlhe same fiate.

Tlat part of it was the doing of 1049

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THE GREAT R.EPUB-I,IC. incendiaries no one doubted; and, too, no one doubted but that this terrible state of things would continue, and grow worse until a new and very different execu tive from the legally constituted one should rise up in vengeance against those pests that worried and preyed upon the vitals of society. It was at this fearful time that the Vigilance Committee was organized.” This was in June, 1851, at which time the association organized “for the pro tection of the lives and property of the citizens and residents of the City of San Francisco.” They formed a constitution, and selected a room in which to hold their meetings, which were entirely secret. The first person they arrested was John Jenkins, a notorious “Sydney cove.” He was seized for stealing a safe on the 10th of June. About 10 o’clock that night, the signal for calling the members was given-the tolling of the bell of the Monumental Engine Company. Shortly afterward about 80 members of the Committee hurried to the appointed place, and giving the secret password were admitted. For two long hours the Committee closely examined the evidence and found him guilty. “At midnight the bell was tolled, as sentence of death by hanging was passed upon the wretched man. The solemn sounds at that unusual hour filled the anxious crowds with awe. The condemned at this time was asked if he had anything to say for himself, when hle answered:’ No, I have nothing to say, only I wish to have a cigar.’ ” This was handed to him, and afterward, at his request, a little brandy and water. He was perfectly cool, and seemingly careless, confidently expecting, it was believed, a rescue, up to the last moment. A little before one o’clock, Mr. S. Brannan came out of the Committee rooms, and, ascending a mound of sand to the east of the Rassette House, addressed the people. He had been deputed, lie said, by the Committee, to inform them that the prisoner’s case had been fairly tried, that he had been proved guilty, and was condemned to be hanged; and that the sentence would be executed within one hour upon the plaza. He then asked the people if they approved of the action of the Committee, when great shouts of Ay! Ay! burst forth, mingled with a few.-
cries of No! In the interval a clergyman had been sent for, who administered the last consolations of religion to the condemned. Shortly before 2 o’clock, the Committee issued from the building, bearing the prisoner (who had his arms tightly pinioned) along with them. The Committee wvere all armed, and closely clustered around the culprit, to prevent any possible chance of rescue. A procession was formed; and the whole party, followed by the crowd, proceeded to the plaza, to the south end of the adobe building, which then stood on the northwest corner. The opposite end of the rope which was already about the neck of the victim was hastily thrown over g projecting beam. Some of the authorities attempted at this stage of affairs to interfere, but their efforts w-ere unavailing. They were civilly desired to stand back, and not delay what was still to be done. The crowd, which numbered upward of 1000, were perfectly quiescent, or only applauded by look, gesture, and subdued voice, the action of the Committee. Before the prisoner had reached the building, a score of persons seized the loose end of the rope and ran backward, dragging the waretch along the ground and raising i him to the beam. Thus they held him till hlie was dead. Nor did they let the body go until some hours afterward, new volunteers relieving those who were tired holding the rope. Little noise or confusion took place. Muttered( whispers among the spectators guided their movements or betrayed their feelings.

The p)risoner had not spoken a word, either upon the march or during the rapid preparations for his execution. At the 105U

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CALIFORNIA. end hlie was perhaps strung up almost before hlie was aware of what was so immiediately coming. He was a strong-bnilt, healthy man, and his struggles, when hanging, were very violent for a few minutes. The next execution which took place was about a month later, that of James Stuart.

He was an Englishman, who had been transported to Australia for forgery.

On leaving it, hlie wandered in various parts of the Pacific until he reached California, where lie was supposed to have committed more murders and other desperate crimes than any other villain in the country. Before his death he acknowledged the justice of his punishment. He was hung July 11th, from a derrick at the end of Market street wharf, in the presence of assembled thousands. One month more rolled round, and the Committee again exercised their duties upon the persons of Samuel Whittaker and Robert McKenzie, who were guilty of robbery, murder, and arson, and on trial confessed these crimes. The sheriff and his posse, with a writ of habeas corpus, took these men from the hands of the Committee and confined them in jail. The latter, fearful that the rascals would escape through the quibbles of the law, prepared for the rescue. “About half past 2 o’clock,”

says the “Annals of San Francisco,” “on the afternoon of Sunday, the 24thl of August, an armed party, consisting of 36 members of the Vigilance Committee, forcibly broke into the jail, at a time when the Rev. Mr.

Williams happened to be engaged at devotional exercises with the prisoners, amnong whom were Whittaker and McKenzie. The slight defence of the jailors and guards was of no avail. The persons named were seized, and hurried to and placed within a coach, that had been kept in readiness a few steps from the prison. The carriage instantly was driven off at full speed, and nearly at the same moment the ominous bell of the Monumental Engine Comipany rapidly and loudly tolled for the immediate assemblage of the Committee and the knell itself of the doomed. The whole population leaped with excitement at the sound and immense crowds from the remotest quarter hurried to Battery street. There blocks, with the necessary tackle, had been hastily fastened to two beams which projected over the windows of the great hall of the Committee. Within 17 minntes after the arrival of the prisoners, they were both dangling by the neck from these beams, the loose extremities of the halters being taken within the building itself and forcibly held by Imembers of the Committee. Full 6000
people were present, who kept an awful silence during the short time these pre parations lasted. But so soon as the wretches were swung off, one tremendous sliout of satisfaction burst from the excited multitude; and then there was silence again. This was the last time, for years, that the Committee took or found occasion to exercise their functions.

Ilenceforward the administration of justice might be safely left in the hands of the usual officials. The city now was pretty well cleansed of crime. The fate of Jenkins, Stuart, Whittaker and McKenzie showed that rogues and roguery, of whatever kind, could no longer expect to find a safe lurkin,g-place in San Francisco. Many of the suspected, and such as were warned off by the Committee, had departed, and gone, some to other lands, and some into the miining regions and towns of the interior. Those, however, who still clung to California found no refuge anywhere in the State. Previously, different cases of lynch law had occurred in the gold districts, but these were solitary instances which had been caused by the atrocity of particular crimes. When, however, the Vigilance Committee of San Francisco had started up, fully organ 1051

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ized, and began their great work, Sacramento, Stockton, San Jose, as well as other towns and the more thickly peopled mining quarters, likewise formed their committees of vigilance and safety, and pounced upon all the rascals within their bounds. These associations interchanged information with each other as to the nmovements of the suspected; and all, with the hundred eyes of an Argus and the hundred arms of a Briareus, watched, pursued, harassed, and finally caught the worst desperadoes of the country. Like Cain, a murderer and wanderer, as most of them were, they bore a mark on the brow, by which they were known. Some were hanged at various places, some were lashed and branded, but the greater numiber were simply ordered to leave the country, within a limited timle, uinder penalty of immediate death if found after a stated period within its limits Justice was no longer blind or leaden-hleeled. With the perseverance and speed of a bloodhound, she tracked criminals to their lair, and smote them where they lay. For a long time afterward, the whole of California remained comparatively free from outrages against person and property. “From all the evidence that can be obtained, it is not supposed that a single’ instance occurred in which a really innocent man suffered the extreme penalty of death. Those who were executed generally confessed their guilt, and admitted the punishment to have been merited.” 1052

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OREGON. Area,……… i. Population in 1860,…… Population in 1870,…….. THE State of Oregon is situated between 42~ and 46~ 20’ N.

latitude, and between 116~ 311’ and 124~ 30’ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Washington Territory, on the east by Idaho Territory, on the south by Nevada and California, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean.

It is about 395 miles long, from east to west, and about 295 miles wide, firom north to south. TOPOGRAPHY. The surface of the eastern part of the State, lying between the Cascade Range and the Snake River, is mostly an elevated plateau, broken by mountain ranges. The western part, lying between the ocean and the Cascade Range, is mountainous. “The Coast MIountains and the Sierra Nevada, traversing California, continue northward through Oregon; the latter, after leaving California, are named the Cascades. Near the southern boundary the chain throws off a branch called the Blue Mountainrs, which extend iortheastwardly through the State, passing into Washington and Idaho. The course of the Cascades through the State is generally parallel with the shore of the Pacific, and distant therefrom an average of 1 10 miles. In California, the direction of the Coast Mountains and coast valleys is that of general parallelism with the sea-shore; the mountains sometimes approaching close to the shore, and then receding miles fromi it, leaving belts of arable land between them and the ocean. In Oregon, the Coast Range consists of a series 1053 95,274 52,465 90,923 Square Mil~s.

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THE GREAT RE 1EPUBLIC. of high lands running at right angles with the shore, with valleys and rivers between the numerous spurs having the same general direc tion as the highlands.” * The western part of the State is the only inhabited and regularly organized portion. It is thus described by a writer thoroughly familiar with it: “Western Oregon, between the Cascades and the Pacific, is made up chiefly of three valleys, those of the Willamette (pronounced Wil lain’-ette), Umpqua, and Rogue rivers. The first named stream begins in the Cascade Mountins, runs west 60 miles, then turns northward, runs 140 miles, and empties into the Columbia. The last two begin in the Cascades, and run westward to the ocean. There are, perhaps, several thousand miners, including Chinamen, in the Rogue River Valley; but nearly the whole permanent farming popu lation is in the Valley of the Willamette. This valley, taking the word in its more restricted sense of the low land, is from 30 to 40 miles wide, and 120
nailes long. This may be said to be the whole of agricultural Oregon. It is a beautiful, fertile, well-watered plain, with a little timber along the streams, and a great deal in the moun tains on each side. The soil is a gravelly clay, covered near the creeks and rivers with a rich sandy loam. The vegetation of the valley is composed of several indigenous grasses, a number of flowering plants and tferns, the latter being very abundant, and excee(dingly troublesome to the farmer on account of its extremely tough vitality. The tributary streanls of the Willamette are very numerous, and their course in thle valley is usually crooked, as the main stream itself is, hlaving many’sloughs,”bayous,’ or’arms,’ as they are differently called. In some places the land is marshy, and everywtlere Imoist. Drouth will never be known in western Oregon; its climnate is very wet, both summnner and winter, the latter season being one long rain, and the formner consisting of many short ones, with alittle stunshine intervening. The winters are warm, and the summers rather cooltoo cool for growing melons, maize, and sweet potatoes.‘Wheat, oats, barley, potatoes, and domestic animals thrive well. The climate, take it all in all, is much like that of England, and all plants and animals whichl do well in Britain will prosper in Oregon. The Oregon fruit is excellent, particularly the apples and plums; the peaches and pears are not quite so good as those of California. All along the coast of _.,..,,,……….~ ––- * Report of the General Land-Office. 1054

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0 R E G ( ON. Oregon, there is a range of mountains about 40 miles wide, and they are so densely timbered with cedar, pine, spruce, and fir, that the density of the wood alone would render them worthless for an age, if they were not rugged. But they are very rugged, and the Umpqua and Rogue rivers, in making their way through them, have not been able to get any bottom lands, and are limited to narrow, high-walled (caions. The only tillable lands on the banks of those rivers are about 50 miles from the sea, each having a valley which, in general terms, may be described as 12
miles wide by 30 long. Rogue River Valley is separated from California by the Siskiyou Mountains, about 5000 feet high, and from Umpqua Valley by the Canion Mountains, about 3000 feet high; and the Umpqua again is separated from the WNillamette Valley by the Calapooya Mountains, also about 3000 feet high. All Oregon-that is, its western division, except the low lands of the WTillamette, Umpqua, and Rogue valleys-is covered witlh dense timber, chiefly of coarse grained wood-such as fir, spruce, and hemlock. In the southwestern corner of the State, lhowever, there are considerab)le forests of white cedar-a large and beautiful tree, producing, a soft, fine-grained lumber, and very fragrant with a perfiime, which might be imitated by mixing otto of roses with turpentine. Oak and ash are rare. Nearly all the trees are coniferous. In Rogue Valley and along the beach of the Pacific, there are extensive gold diggings. There are also large seams of tertiary coal at Coose Bay. These are the only valuable minerals in the State. The scenery on the Columbia is grand, from Wallawalla, where it first touches Oregon, to the ocean. There are five mountain peaks in the State, rising to the region of perpetual snowv: Mount Hood, 13,700 feet high; Mount Jefferson, 11,900 feet high; the Three Sisters, Mount Scott, and Mount McLaughlin, all about 9000 feet high.” The Colt,u)bia Ri, er, already described, forms the principal part of the northern boundary of the State. It receives the waters of the Alallawalla, Umatilla, John Day, and Falls rivers, east of the Cas cade Range, and those of the Willamette, wvest of it. The Rogue and Umpqua rivers empty into the Pacific Ocean. The lower part of the Columbia forms a fine bay, and affords an excellent harbor. It is navigable to the falls for large vessels, and above them for a consider able distance for steamers. The Willamette is navigable to Portland for ships, and for 80 miles above the falls for small steamers. The Umpqua is navigable for 25 miles for small steamers, and its mouth forms a harbor for vessels drawing 12 feet of water. There are several small lakes in the State. 1055

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TlHE GREAT RE’U’BLIC. AN OREGON VALLEY. MINERALS. Oregon is principally an agricultural State, butt mining is growing in importance. Gold exists in the State. The deposits of copper are almost inexhaustible, and there are considerable deposits of coal iu the Valley of the Williamlette. CLIMATE.

The climate is mild along the coast, but increases in severity as one proceeds eastward. The winters are very irregular, but are usually short and mild. SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS. In the eastern part of the State, much of the land is unfit for cultivation. In Western Oregon, the lands in the valleys are among the most fertile in America, and produce large crops. In 1869, thie agricultural resources of the State were as follows Acres of improved land (estimated)…… 1,000,000 Bushels of wheat,……………

1,750,000 ” rye,………..5,200 ” oats……………..500,000
buckwheat………….8,000 Indian corn………….. 200,000
barley,……… 200,000 Irish potatoes………500,000 1056

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OREGON. Tons of hay,…… Number of horses,…. s asses and mules, “
milch cows,.. ” sheep,…. ”’ swine,…. ” young cattle,. Value of domestic animals, ~…… ……. *….. * youiig~~~~~~
cate…… 140,50~0 Value~~~~~~~~~~~ of doesi anmas…….~..$796,5

COMMERCE. Oregon has some direct trade with Europe, South America, and the Sandwich Islands, but her principal transactions are with San Francisco, between which city and Portland (Oregon), a line of fine steamships plies regularly. The exports are lumber, stock, hogs, beef, butter, eggs, chickens, pork, flour, and fish. Cattle raising forms an important part of the industry of the State, and large droves are annually driven into California for sale. Manufactures are still unimportant. The annual product does not exceed $3,000,000. INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. The internal improvements of this State consist of the works that have been erected by a private corporation for the improvement of the navigation of the Columbia River, and the railroads built around the falls of that stream, and connecting the successive stages of navigation. There are one or two railroad schemes on foot. The principal is that of the Oregon Central Railroad, which is to extend from Portland to the California border, where it will ultimately connect with a road from San Francisco. It has been completed from Portland to Salem. EDUCATION. There are three colleges in the State. The principal of these is the Willamette University, at Salem, which is under the charge of the Methodist Church. It is an excellent institution, and has an endowment of $30,000. The common school system is similar to that of the Eastern States. The Superintendent of Public Instruction has the general supervision of the schools. The counties have each a Local Superintendent, and each district is governed by its Board of Trustees. A school fund has been established, and taxes are levied for the support of the schools. Measures are on foot for the establishment of a State University. 67 1057 75,000 49,800 1,560 79,312 101,960 112,700

140,500 $7,946,255 a

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In 1860, there were 339 public schools in the State, with 8158 pupils. In the same year, there were 11 libraries in Oregon, containing 5300 volumes. The number of newspapers and periodicals was as follows: 2 daily, 12 weekly, 1 quarterly, and 1 annual, making a total of 16, with a total annual circulation of 1,074,640 copies. PUBLIC

INSTITUTIONS. The Penitentiary is located at Portland, and is a flourishing institution. The convicts are confined in temporary quarters, due regard being had to their safe keeping, and are required to labor on the public buildings. Measures are being taken for the erection of buildings for charitable and benevolent purposes by the State, and as soon as the pecuniary condition of the Commonwealth will permit it, these institutions will be provided. At present the insane and idiotic are cared for by private persons at the expense of the State. RELIGIOUS

DENOMINATIONS. In 1860, there were 75 churches in Oregon. The value of church property was $195,695. FINANCES. In September, 1868, the total State debt was $176,156. During the two fiscal years extending from September 5th, 1866, to September 5th, 1868, the receipts of the Treasury were $353,689, and the expenditures for the same period $357,116.

GOVERNMENT. Every male citizen of the United States who has resided in the State six months, and every male foreigner who has lawfully declared his intention to become a citizen of the United States, who is twentyone years old, and has resided in the State one year, is entitled to vote at the elections. The Government consists of a Governor, Secretary of State, Treasurer, Auditor, and a Legislature, consisting of a Senate (of 16
members), and a House of Representatives (of 34 members), all 1058

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OREGON. chosen by the people. The State officers and Senators are elected for four years, and Representatives for two years. The general election is held in June, and the Legislature meets biennially in September. The judicial power of the State is vested in a Supreme Court and five Circuit Courts. The juetes of the Supreme Court are five in iinumber, and are also judges of the Circuit Courts. They are electc(i by the people for six years. The seat of Government is located at Salem. The State is divided into 22 counties. HISTORY. Oregon was known to various navigators during the 17th and 18thl centuries, hut the first white man who entered it was Captain Robe(rt Gray, of the shlip Columbia, of Boston, who on the 7thl of May, 1792, entered and explored the lower part of its principal river, to whichl he gave the name of his ship. On his return home he publishled a description of the river and its valley, which aroused so much interest on the part of the Government, that in 1804 an exploring expedition was sent out across the Continent, under Captains Lewis and Clark, of the United States army. The explorations of this party extended through the years 1804 and 1805, and made known for the first time the vast region watered by the Columbia. In 1811, the Amierican Fur Company, of which John Jacob Astor was the leading memnber, established a post for trading purposes at the mouth of the Columbia River, and called it Astoria. It was the design of the Comipany to make this place an important city, in course of time, but this part of their project failed, and they sold the post to the Northwest Company (of England), to save it from capture during the war of 1812-15. Having thus secured a lodgement on the Columbia, the British claimed the whole country. The United States, on the other hand, claimed the region now known as British Columtbia, and a serious controversy set in between the two powers. In 1846, lhowever, a treaty between the Ulited States and Great Britain adjusted the difficulty. The United States weakly surrendered the greater part of our claim, and the present northern boundary of Washingtoii Territory was fixed as the northern boundary of Oregon. Emigration to the Territory began in 1839. In 1850, there 1059

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. were about 3000 settlers. The gold excitement in California drew off many, but Congress by a liberal offer of lands indulced a sufficient number to remain, to prevent the country from relapsing into its wild state. From this time the Territory grew slowly but steadily. On the 14th of August, 1848, Oregon.was organized as a Territory, and on the 2nd of MAarcl, 1843, the northern half was erected into a separate establishment, and called Washington Territory. In Novembler, 1857, a State Constitution was adopted by the people, and on the 14t1i of February, 1859, Oregon was admitted into the Union as a sovereigli State. The Indians for a long time caused great trouble to the people of Oregon, and greatly hindered its growth. They have now ceased their depradations, and the State is growing in population and in material prosperity. CITIES AND TOWNS. Besides the capital, the principal places in the State are, Portland, Oregon City, Albany, Corvallis, and Eugene City.

SALEM, The capital of the State, is situated in Marion county, on the right or eastern bank of the Willamette River, 50 miles south-southwest of Portland, and 710 miles north of San Francisco. ILatitude 44~ 56’ N., longitude 123~ 1’ W. The city lies in a rich prairie country, in the mid(st of some of the most beautifiul scenery of the State. It contains the State buildings, 6 or 7 churches, 4 hotels, a theatre, 2 newspaper offices, and several schools. It is the seat of the Willamette University.

It has 1 woollen mill, 1 flour mill, 3 saw mills, 2 machine shops, and 1
foundry, in successful operation. Travellers who have seen it, describe it as one of the prettiest and most enterprising towns on the Pacific coast.

The Willamette is navigable to Salem for small steamers during the season of high water, or for about 9 months in the year. In 1870, the population was 2842. PORTLAND, The largest and most important city of the State, is situated in Multulomah county, on the left or west bank of the Willamette River, 15 miles from its mouth, 50 miles north-by-east of Salem, and 120
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OREGON. from the mouth of the Columbia River. The city is beautifully situated in a lovely country, and is well built, the houses being mostly of wood. It stands on a plateau, which gradually increases in height as it recedes from the river, until it forms a range of hills at the western extremity of the city. From the summit of this range a magnificenit view is obtained of Mounts Hood, Jefferson, aind St. Helen, of the Cascade Range, and the windings of the Willamette and Columbia rivers. Portland contains 4 or 5 churches, several schools, 3 newspaper offices and a public library. It is the seat of the Stte Peniteitiary and the Insane Asylum. The Oregon Iron Works and 2 assay offices are located here. It is governed by a Mayor and Council, and in 1870, it contained a population of 8293. Portland lies at the head of ship navigation on the Willamette, and is the centre of a large and growing trade, with the magnificent reg,ioni to the north and northwest of it. It has telegraphic communication with San Francisco, and is connected with Sacramen to by a line of daily stages. Upwards of 20 river steamers ply between Portland and the various towns on the Columbia and Willamette rivers. A line of steamships connects the city with San Francisco. Says Mr. Samuel Bowles, in his “New West:”

“Ships and ocean steamers of the highest class colme readily hither; from it spreads out a wide navigation by steamboat of the Columbia and its branches, below and above; here centres a large and ilncreasing trade, not only for the Willamette Valley, but for the mining regions of Eastern Oregon and Idaho, Washington Territory on the north, andti parts even of British Columbia beyond. Even Salt Lake and Montana, too, have taken groceries and dry goods through this channel, such are the attained and the attainable water communications through the far-extending Columbia.

“The population of Portland is now from eight to te-n thousand, who keep Sunday with as much strictness almost as Puritanic New England does, which can be said of no other population this side of the Rocky MIountains, at least. Whether this fact has anything to do with it or not, real estate we found to be very high in Portland, $400 a front foot for the best lots, 100 feet deep on the main business street, without the buildings. In religion, the Methodists have the lead, and control an academic school in the town, and a professed State University at Salem; the Presbyterians are next, with a beautiful church and the most fashionable congregation, and favor a strug 1061

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. gling University about 20 miles off in the valley; perhaps the Catholics rank third, with a large Sisters of Charity establishment and school within the city. Iron mines are successfully worked in the neighborhood, and the city has prosperous iron founderies and miachine shops, and is reaching forward to other manufacturing successes.” Portland was founded in 1845, by Messrs Pettigrew and Lovejoy, and was named after Portland in Maine, the native place of the former.

1062 I

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PAIRT VI. THE TERRITORIES.

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I

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ALASKA. Area,………… 577,390 Square Miles. Pol)ulation,……. 75,000

(including 65,000 Indians). THE Territory of Alaska comprises that portion of North America lying north of the parallel of 54~ 40’ N. latitude, and west of the meridian of 141~ W. longitude. Within these limits are included many islands lying along the coast, and extending west from the main land. The boundaries are as follows: Commencing at 54~ 40’ N.

latitude, ascending Portland Channel to the mountains, following their summits to the 141~ west longitude; thence north, on this line, to the Arctic Ocean, forming the eastern boundary. Starting from the Arctic Ocean west, the line descends Behring’s Strait, between the two islands of Krusenstern and Ratmanoff, to the parallel of 65~ 30’, and proceeds due north without limitation, into the same Arctic Ocean. Beginning again at the same initial point, on the parallel of 65~ 30’, thence in a course southwest through Behring’s Strait, between the island of St. Lawrence and Cape Choukotski to the 172~ west longitude; and thence southwesterly, through Behring’s sea, between the islands of Attou and Copper, to the meridian of 193~ \Nest longitude; leaving the prolonged group of the Aleutian islands in the possessions now transferred to the United States, and making the western boundary of our country the dividing line between Asia and America. ” WVith the exception of the narrow strip extending in a southeast direct ion along the coast nearly 400 miles, and the remarkable penins u l a of Alaska, it forms a tolerably compact mass, with an average length and breadth of about 600 miles each. Its greatest length, north and south, from the southern extremity of Alaska to Point Bar 1065

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. row, is about 1100 miles; its greatest breadth, measured on the Arctic Circle, which passes through Cape Prince of Wales, is about 800 miles; the longest line that can be drawn across the country is from Cape Prince of Wales to its southern extremity, latitude 54~ 40’, a distance of about 1600 miles. Estimated area, 394,000 square miles. The part of the mainland south of Mount St. Elias consists of a narrow belt, which is continued along a mountain ridge parallel to the coast, and has nowhere a greater width than about 33 miles. The interior of the country is very little known; but fromn several expeditions, it appears that throughout its western part it is elevated and uneven, while the part extending along the Arctic Ocean is invariably flat, with the ex ception of a small portion lying between 141~ and 152~ W. longitude. The coasts of the mainland and the islands have almost all been carefully explored. The northern coast was first discovered in the course of the present century.

Captain Cook, in 1778, during his last voyage, reached Icy Cape, latitude 70~ 20’ N., and 161~ 46’ W.; and it was supposed, from the large masses of ice there met with, even in summer, that further progress was impossible.

In 1826, however, Captain Beechy proceeded east as far as North Cape, or Point Barrow, latitude 71~ 23’ 31” N., longitude 156~ 21’ 32” W.; while at the same time the lamented Sir John Franklin, then Captain Franklin, traced the coast west from the mouth of the Mackenzie to Return Reef, latitude 70~ 26’ N., longitude 148~ 52’ W. The intervening space between Point Barrow and Return Reef was first explored in 1837, by Dease and Simpson, officers of the Hudson’s Bay Company. “The whole of the northern coast of Russian America, from Demarcation Point west to Point Barrow, its northernmost extremity, stretches with tolerable regularity in a west-northwest direction, and is, with the exception of a small part in the east, a dead flat, often nearly on a level with the sea, and never more than from 10 to 20 feet above it. From Point Barrow the coast takes a uniform direction, from northeast to southwest, rising gradually towards Cape Lisburn, which is 850 feet high. It here turns south, forming, between the two large inlets of Kotzebue Sound and Norton Sound, the remarkable peninsula of Prince of Wales, which projects into Behring’s Strait, and terminates in an elevated promontory, forming the northwestern part of North America. From Norton Sound it turns first southwest, then south-southeast, becoming indented by several large bays, including those of Bristol Bay and Cook’s Inlet, on the opposite of the long and narrow peninsula of Alaska; and is lined almost throughout by 1066

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ALASKA. several groups of large islands, of which the most important belong to the Aleutian, Kodiak, and King George III. Archipelagoes. The greater part of the coast last described is very bold, presenting a suecession of lofty volcanic peaks.” The interior has been very little explored. The latest discoveries were made by the party engaged ill surveying the route for the overland telegraph to Russia. The coast line of the Territory is about 4000 miles in extent. Including bays and rivers it exceeds 11,000 miles. The peninsula of Alaska is 300 miles in length, withl all average breadth of 50 miles. The Aleutian Islands are the sulmmits of a mountain range, which extends northward on the American coast, around the head of Prince William and Cook’s Inlet, and down the peninsula of Alaska. They form a perfect curve southward, westward, and northward, from the extremity of the peninsula to Behring’s Island, a distance of 1075 miles, and constitute the most wondlerfuLl range of volcanic islands in the Western World. The six largest are all inhabited.

The southern sides of these islands are generally steep and without indentation, consequently the inhabitants dwell on the north side, where the harbors are good. The islands have an area of from 350 to 1500 square miles. They are Ounimak, Ounalaska, Oumnak, Atkha, Amnchitkla, and Attou.

Ounalaska has 700 inhabitants; the others each about half that number. In Behring’s Sea are the islands of St. Lawrence and iNoumbak, each possessing an area of more than 2000 square miles. There are several rivers in the Territory. The principal stream is the Yukon, which flows into Behring’s Sea, south of Norton’s Sound. The Russians gave the name of Kwichpak to the lower part of this river. Like the Mississippi it discharges its waters through a nium l)er of mouths, and its “delta”

embraces nearly two degrees of lati tudle. It is 2000 miles long, is navigable for nearly 1500 miles, and is free from ice between the middle of May and the middle of October. The mountains are high and imposing.

Thie height of Mount St. Elias is estimated at from 15,000 to 18,000 feet.

Although situated 40 miles from the coast, it is seen at sea at a distance of 100 miles from the land. Mount Fairweather is 100 miles to the southeast of it, and is almost as high. Several active volcanoes, some of which are 10,000 feet high, lie within the Territory. The climate is variable, but is milder than that of the same latitudes on the Atlantic coast. “The investigations which have attended and followed the change in the political relations of the country, have 1067

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. ~~~~\ ~~~~;~~ 5IOUNT ST. ELIAS. developed sonme new facts with regard to it. The great extent of the Territory gives it a corresponding variety of climate, but the mean temperature is but little colder than that of Maine and New Brunswick, owing to the thermal current from the shores of Asia; the atmosphere is very humid, and a large quantity of rain falls in winter. The interior has been but litle explored, and is an almost uinknownn wilderness, the haunt of the Indians, and of the fur-bearing animals. Along many of the streams there is an abundance of timber, mostly of pine. The agricultural resources of the country form a very inconsiderable item in an account of its value as an acquisition to the United States, yet the districts along the coast are capable of yielding, in moderate quantities, the cereal grains and the more valuable vegetables of the temperate zone. The precious metals are known to exist there, but it is a fact of more importance that iron and coal are found in considerable abundance, and can be obtained at no very great expense. Two mines have for some time been successfully worked on the Aleutian Islands, and, with the iron works which they supply, are of great importance to vessels needing repair and in want of fuel. The principal value of the Territory of Alaska, for the present, will 1068

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ALASKA. depend on its fisheries and its fur productions. The supply of furs is on the decrease, owing to the active traffic which had been carried on in that commodity, but the fisheries are inexhaustible. Salmon abound in the rivers, and cod and halibut on the coasts. Whales and walrus are plentifull in the seas to the south of Behring’s Strait.” There are about 10,000 persons, besides Indians, in the Territory, including the military force stationed there. These consist of Americans, who have gone there since the purchase, Russians, Creoles, lKodiaks, and Aleoots. The native or Indian inhabitants, some 65,000 in number, dwell principally along the coast and rivers, where fish and game are plentiful. They learn quickly, and exhibit a decided aptitude for commerce and the mechanic arts. They show great sklill in fashioning their rude instruments of warfare and domestic utensils. Aiany of them, however, are vagabondish, and bear an unenviable reputation. There is as yet no organized civil government for the Territory. The Government of the United States maintains and exercises its authority through the military force stationed at Sitka and other places. During the last session of Congress, an unsuccessful effort was made to organize Alaska as a county of Washington Territory. This extensive Territory, formerly known as Russian America, was granted by the Emperor Paul VIII., of Russia, in July, 1799, to a Russian-American Fur Company. In 1867, it was purchased by the United States from the Emperor of Russia, for the sum of $7,200,000. In July, 1868, Congress extended over the Territory the laws of the United States relating to customs, commerce, and navigation, and established a collection district. In August, 1868, the military district of Alaska was established, and attached to the Department of California. SITKA, or, NEW

ARCHANGEL, on the island of Sitka, is the seat of Government. It contains a population of about 500 Russians, Cossacks, and Creoles, besides the garrison, and there are about 1000 Indians in the vicinity. It has but one street, with straggling log houses. It contains the “Governor’s House,”

now the headquarters of the military commander, a Greek church, a Lutheran chapel, and the buildings of the Russian-American Fur Company. “The town is situated on a low strip of land, the Governor’s House rising on a rocky height 100 feet or so above the general level. Snow-capped and peaked mountains, and thickly wooded hills sur 1069

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. SITKA. round it, and Mount Ed]gecumbe, on Crooze Island(l, immediately opposite the town, an extinct volcano, 8000 feet in height, is the great landmark of this port-the most northern harbor on the Pacific shores of America. The coloring of the town is gay, and the surroundings picturesque. The houses yellow, with sheet iron roofs painted red; the bright green spire and dome of the Greek church, and the old battered hulks, roofed in and used as magazines, lying propped up on the rocks at the water’s edge, with the antiquated buildings of the Russian Fur Company, give Sitka an original, foreign, and fossilized kind of appearance.” 1070

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A PR I Z 0 N A. Area,. ~.. s r miles. Population in lS70,……. THE

Territory of Arizona lies between 31~ 20’ and 37~ N. latitude, and between 109~ and 114~ W. longittude. Its extreneic length, from north to south, is about 400 miles, and its extreme width, from east to west, about 330
miles. It is bounded on the north by Utah Territory and Nevada; onl the east by the Territory of New Mexico; on the south by the Republic of Mexico; and on the west by California and Nevada. A large part of the Territory is mountainous. Numerous ranges traverse it in a generally northwest and southeast direction. The principal ranges are the Sierra del Carrizo, in the northern part; the Mogollon Mountains, in the eastern part; the Pinaleino, or Pinon Llano mountains, in the southeastern part; Mt. San tFrancisco, in the northern part of the central portion, and the Aztec Mountains, in the west. As a general rule, the surface of the Territory is elevated and mountainous, and a large portion is believed to be of volcanic origin. It also contains a number of extensive plains without trees. The principal rivers are the Colorado, which forms a part of the n o r t h e r n and western boundaries, the Little Colorado, the Gila(, whieh f l ows westward across the southern part of the Territory, the Santa C(-tz, the Bitl U7iliams Fork of the Colorado, the -Rio TKercle, the Rlio Sct Peclro, and the Rio Sclinas. The Colorad o is navigable for s t e a m e r s for about 600 miles within the limits of Arizona. Its navig a t i o n is difficult and dangerous, however, in consequence of the force of the current, and the frequent shifting of th e clannel. In spite of t h e s e obstacles the water communication whlic h it furnishes from por 1071

113,916 square miles. 9,658

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. tions of New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, and Utah, to the sea, is of the greatest value to those regions. Gold, silver, copper, mercury, and lead, are found in the Territory. Valuable silver mines are worked in the central and southern portions of Arizona, especially along the Colorado and Gila rivers. The great drawbacks to the success of mining enterprises in this Territory are the scarcity of water in the vicinity of the mines, and the hostility of the Indians. It is believed that the mineral wealth of Arizona very largely exceeds the discoveries that have thus far been made. A very large part of the land is utterly barren. The basin of the Colorado consists of elevated tablelands, broken by mountain ranges. The valleys of these ranges are fertile. South of the Gila, and west of the 112th meridian, the country is sandy, and not generally fertile, except along the river. In other portions, there are many rich valleys and fertile prairies, containing millions of acres, and producing wheat, barley, oats, tobacco, vegetables, and fruits. Cotton and sugar grow well in the south, and grazing lands, of the finest quality, are abundant. Wood is scarce throughout the Territory, and, in many parts, is entirely absent. In the northcentral portion is a large forest of yellow pine, interspersed with oak. Cottonwood grows along the shores of the streams. In the southeast part grows a low, stunted tree, called the Mezquit. It is of no use for building, but is said to be valuable for mining purposes. AZTEC MOUNTAINS. 1072

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ARIZONA. The climate is mild. In southern Arizona, and aloing a portion of the Colorado, the summers are too warmt to allow the performance of work in the open air. In the central portion the sun is rarely so oppressive.

In the mountain regions the nights are always cool. Snow falls in the central and northern portion, but does not remain long upon the ground.

The Territory is sparsely inhabited, the settlements being confined to the southern portion. Its population in 1870 is no larger than that of 8lS50.

The inhabitants consist of American settlers, miners, Spanish, half-breeds, and Indians. The towns are built chiefly of adobe, or sun-dried bricks, and bear a close resemblance to the Mexican towns, having but few marks of American civilization about them. The greatest obstacle to the settlement of the Territory has been the merciless depredations of the Apachee Indians. The military force of the United States stationed in the Territory is small, and the people are obliged to protect themselves by volunteer companies. The Governor, in his last mnessage, urges the people to forlm military companies in all the settlements and to exterminate the Apachecs as far as possible. There are no railways or telegraphs, and no public schools in the Territory. The Governor and Secretary are appointed by the President. The Legislature and other officials are all elected by the people. The principal towns are Tucson, containing 3000 inhabitants, Prescott, with 1200 inhabitants, and Arizona City, with a population of 600. They are all wretched places, built of adobe, and filled with dirt and half civilized people. Ross Browne thus describes Tucson: “A city of mud boxes, dingy and dilapidated, cracked and baked into a composite of dust and filth; littered about with broken corrals, shieds, bake-ovens, carcasses of dead animals, and broken pottery; barren of verdure, parched, naked, and grimly desolate in the glare of a southern sun. Adobe walls without whitewash inside or out, hard earthen floors, baked and dried Mexicans, sore-backed burros, Coyote dogs, and terra-cotta children; soldiers, teamsters, and honest miners lounging about the mescal shops, soaked with the fiery poison; a noisy band of Sonoranian buffoons, dressed in theatrical costume, cutting their antics in the public places to the most diabolical din of fiddles and guitars ever heard; a long train of Government wagons preparing to start for Fort Yuma or the Rio Grande-these are what the traveller sees, and a great many things more, but in vain he looks for a hotel or lodging house. The best accommodations he can pos 68 1073

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. sil]y expect are the dried mud walls of some unoccupied outhouse, with a miud floor for his bed; his own food to eat, and his own cook to prepare it; and lucky is he to possess such luxuries as tlhese.” Arizona was settled by the Spanish missionaries fionl Mexico as early as 1687. Their miissions were located princiieally on the Lower Colora(lo and Lower Gila. It formed a part of Mexico until its p)urchase in 1850 by the United States. On the 24thi of February, 1863, Congress organized the present Territory of Arizona, adding to the orig(inal Gadsden purchase a considerable part of New Mexico. I074

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I~~0?,~ C O L PTA) 0. Area,……….. 104,500 Square \iles. Populationl iii 1870…….. 39,864 THE Territory of Colorado lies betwveen 37~ and 41~ N. latitude, and between 102~ and 109~ W. longitude. It is about 375
mniles lon)g, from east to west, and 27o miles wide, firomi north to south. The surface of the Territory is mountainous. He,e are to be found some of the highest peaks of the Rocky I\Iounttain range, which passcs, frtom north to southl, thlrough the middle of the Territory. ” Ttle average height of these mountains is 12,000 feet, tlloughl many of t-he peaks rise froni 2000 to 5000 feet hig,her. The foot lhills flank the range on eitl-her hand to a distance of 50 miles; to the eastward subsiding( into the plains; to the westward slopitng to the base of othler and continuous ranges of lesser height which fill the spaces thence to the Pacific. This majestic range holds withlin its folds the North, South, Middle, and San Luis Parks, ilimmense areas of level landsurrounded by snowy mountainis-each having a soil, climate, and geological formation peculiar and distinctive. Thle planis irnperceptibly slope fi’om tlhe base of the mountains, wlich rise abrupltly from them to the Mlissouri River; presenting a smooth, undulating surface, destitute of timnber, save in the valleys of the Nwater-courses, and upon the high land, which, near the mountains, divides tle waters of the Platte and Arkansas rivers.” The Platte and Arkansas rivers rise near the centre of the Territory, and drain the eastern part. From the western slopes of tlhe Rocky MIountains flow tlle Tampa or Bear River, the Btunkara and(l the Gunison rivers. The Bunkara and Gunison unite in the western part and form the Grand River, which is a branch of the Colorado. 1075

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. BUFFALO HIIUNTING. The Rio Grande rises ill the southern part of the Territory and flows south ard. Colorado is very rich in mineral deposits. Gold and silver are abundant in the central part among the mountains. Copper, iron, coal, salt, limestone, and gypsum also exist in large quantities. The gold mines have thus far almost monopolized the attention of capitalists. There is a branch of the United States Mint at Denver, at which large quantities of the precious metals are assayed.

“The mountain region,” says a pamphlet, published by the Denver Board of Trade, “contains mines of gold, silver, copper, and lead, which are destined, under the influence of capital and cheap labor, to give to the American people for all time the monetary supremacy of the commercial world. The mineral belt extends the whole length of the range, and includes thirty miles of each of its flanks, making an aggregate of 14,0’-)0 square miles of mineral land. In the two counties of Gilpin and Clear Creek, alone, not less than 12,000 distinct lodes have been discovered and recorded, and it is safe to say that 6f this number there are not less than 100 capable of annually yielding, under favorable circumstances, such as the completion of projected railroads will secure, 8o00,00 each, a total of $50,000,000.” The Territory is deficient in timber. Ini the eastern portion are extensive sandy plains, covered with a thick growth of the wild sage and prickly pear. Large herds of the buffalo, elk, antelope, and deer roam over the unsettled portions of the Territory. The bear is also found in the mountains, and along the lakes and marshes are to be found wild ducks and geese. 10,6

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COLORADO. Hall, in his ” Emiigrants’ and Settlers’ Guide,” thus speaks of the climlate and productions of Colorado: “The climate of Colorado varies with its height, both as to temperature and the amount of rain and snow.

The climnate of that portion lyNing at the base and east of the mountains is not only delighltful but remnarklably healthy. The frosts come generally early in the autumn, and continule far into the spring months, but they are not severe. On the plains, the snows of winter are niever sufficient to prevent cattle of all lkinds from thriving and fattening o.’

thle nutritious grass, dried up and tlhus cured by nature in July and(l August. Througlhout the winiter months, with rare exceptions, the sun blazes down with an almost tropic glow, little or no snow falls, an(l althou,ghl the nighi,lts are sometimes sharp and frosty, there is no stead(ly ilntensity of cold. With such a climate, Colorado could not well be otherwise than healthy. The sanitary condition of the Territory is good, and the number of deaths, considerilng the labor and exposure to which the great majority of its inhabitants are subljected, remarkably-) small. In a country so remiote from the agricultural districts of the States, and where the expensq, of transporting supplies is so heavy, the need of l home production is necessarily very great. The ratlher scanty opportunities which Colorado presents as a field for agriculture have been, liowever, improved to the utmost. An extensive system of irrigation has been introduced, wl-lich, it is thoulght, will relieve the settlers froml lack of rain atnd other (lifficulties vlwhichl have hitherto limnited ag,ricultural prog(ress. As regards the pro(lductionl of grain, the crop)s on the various bran(lies of the South Platte, Arkansas, Fontain que Bituille, afford encouraging prospects. “In the southern part of the Territory considerable attention has been paid to the raising of wheat, corn, barley, and other cereals; but the continuance of dry wveather presents a formidable ol-)stacle to great success in this direction. The bottom lands of the Platte River and other mountain streams have a rich alluvial deposit, which only requires water at long intervals to promote an astonishing vegetable growth. All the succulent varieties of p)lants, such as pOt:Itoes, cabbages, onions, squashes, etc., attain an enormnous size, retaining the tenderness, juiciness, and sweetness which almost everywhere else belong only to the smaller varieties. The wild fruits of the Territory are also numerous and abundant. It is believed that Colorado will, in a few years, be able to supply her own home demand for the necessaries of life. As a grazing and stocl-raising region, Colorado pos 1077

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. sesses great advantages. Near the base of the Rocky ranges, an(] along the valleys of the streams w hichl have their origin in the moun tains, vegetation is prolific. The grasses are not only abundant, but they, contain more nutriment than the cultivated species of the most prosperous agricultural districts of the Mlississippi valley. These (Yrasses cure standing, and cattle have been known to feed and thrive t)upon tlhem tlhrou,ghout the entire winter mionths.” In 1870, the Territory produced 860,000 l)usl-els of wheat, 575,000 bushels of corn, 825,000 bushels of oats and barley, and 800,000 lbushels of potatoes. The entire wealth of the Territory has been stated at 850,000,000. During the year 1870, gold and silver were slhipl)ed from the Territory to the amtount of $5,454,000. A School of Mines has been established at Goldeni City. There is a system of public sclhools in operation in the Territory, under the supervision of the Territorial Treasurer, who is also the Superintendent of Public EdLucation. The system is yet in its infancy, b)it gives promise of future usefulness. The Legislature, at its last sessiOs,i established an Agricultural College. The finances of the Territory are in a prosperotus condition. The annual expenses of the Territorial Governmenet are about $30,000, and are fully covered by the receipts of the Treasury. The Government, as in all the other Territories, consists of a Governor and Secretary, appointed by the President of the United States, and a Treasurer, Auditor, and Ad(jutant-General, elected by the people.of the Territory. The Legislature consists of a Council of 13
members, and a House of Representatives of 26 members. The judicial power of the Territory is vested in a Supretme Court, District Courts, Probate Courts, and Justices of the Peace. The Supreme Court consists of a Chief Justice and two Associates, appointed by the President of the United States for a term of four years. For District Court purposes the Territory is divided into three districts, in each of which a Justice of the Supreme Court holds the sessions. There is also in each district a Clerkl of the Court, who appoints deputies for every county. The Supreme and District Courts have chancery as well as commnon law jurisdiction. In 18o59 gold was discovered in Colorado, in the vicinity of Pike’s Peakl, and emigrants flocked to the Territory, and by 1860 it contained 34,277 inhabitants. In March, 1861, the Territory of Colorado was organized, being constructed of portions of Kansas, Nebraska, and Utah. The Territory has several times applied foir admission ioli-s

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COLORADO. 1O~9 A CANON IN COLORADO. into the Uuiou as a State, but without success. It is believed, however, that its admission will soon take place now. The principal towns are Denver, Central City, oldcu City. aud Colorado City. DENVR, the capital of the Territory, is thus described iu tlie publication of the Denver Board of Trade, f~om whiA~ we have quoted: “Denver is beautifully situated, on a plain, at the junctiou of Cherry Creek with the South Platte, 12 miles from the foot of the monutains, with an alfitude of 5000 feet above tide level. The population is about (3000.

Meu from the Last gaze witl~ astonishment oil this compactly built, busy setHement, with the peculiarities to the full of a large city, standing il-i the` Creat Amcrica~ T)esert,’ 700 miles fiom what has hitherto heen supposed the U1ti~%Ct thule of inhabitable laud on the AM antic slope of the United States. “An~oug the public buildings there are 6 churches, several of them imposing brick stru~tures, belonging to the Lpiscopal, ~Iethodist,

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. Baptist, Presbyterian, and Congregational and Catholic societies respectively; 2 free and several select schools. It is connected with the East, with Central City and Georgetown, by telegraph lines, and is shortly to have the same communication with Santa Fe, New Mexico.

“There are two firstclass flouring mills, run by water, capable of making several hundred sacks of flour per day; two planing mills, sash and door factories, gunsmiths’ and jewelery shops, cabinet manufacturers, upholsterers, etc. “There are 3 daily papers, having also weekly editions, and 1 weekly paper; 3 firstclass and many second-class hotels; 3 bridges spanning the Platte, costly and permanent structures, and 2 over Cherry Creek, erected at a cost of $16,000; 2 theatres, 2 public halls, and the United States Branch Mint buildings. “Six lines of coaches leave every day for the termini of the railroads for Santa F6 and the various mining towns in the mountains. The view from Denver and vicinity is grand. Pike’s and Long’s peaks, with over 200 miles of the Snowy Range, are plainly visible, and seen through the clear mountain air, the passing clouds shading in rapid succession and infinite variety their seamed and broken surfaces, present a panorama which beggars description, and is pronounced by all travellers unequalled elsewhere in the world.” This description was written in 1868. Since then the city has rapidly improved. The Pacific Railway connecting it with the Missouri River has been completed, and several other roads are under construction. In 1870, the population was 8000. The trade of the city, during that year, amounted to $10,000,000, and its manufactures to $1,000,000. 1080

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D A K OT A. Area,…………..152,000 Square MIiles Population in 1870,…….. 14,181 THE Territory of Dakota lies between 43~ and 49~ N.

latitude, and between 96~ 25’ and 104~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by Minnesota and Iowa, on the south by Nebraska and Colorado Territory, and on the west by Montana and Wyoming Territories. It is about 400 miles long, from north to south, and nearly as broad. A recent Report of a Committee of the Legislature of Dakota, thus speaks of the Territory: “The Territory occupies the most elevated section of country betweenl the Arctic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico; forming, to a great extent, the watershed of the two great basins of North America-the Missouri and the Mississippi rivers, and the tributaries of Hlludson Bay. Thus within the limits of Dakota are found the sources of rivers running diametrically opposite; those flowing northward reach a region of eternal ice, while those flowing southward pass from the haunts of the grizzly bear and the region of wild rice through the cotton-fields and the sugar plantations of the Southerner, until their waters are mingled with the blue waves of the Gulf. “The general surface of the country east and north of the Missouri is a beautiful, rich, undulating prairie, free fronm marsh, swamp, or slough; traversed by many streams and dotted over with innumerable lakes of various sizes, whose wooded margins, and rocky shores, and gravelly bottoms afford the settler the purest water, and give to the scenery of the Territory much of its interest and fascination. West of the Missouri the country is more rolling, and generally becomes 1081t

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. broken, hilly, and finally mountainous, as tile western limits are reached and terminated by the Rocky Mountains. “The mnighty Missouri runs through the very heart of our Terri tory, and gives us imore than 1000 miles of navigable watercourse, teaus giving us the facility of cheap water transportation, by mleans of whichl we can bear away the surplus products of our rich, luxuriant lands to Southern markets, and receive in exchange the trade and commerce of all climes and lands. “We have, located on the Missouri, Big Sioux, Red River of the North, \erailion, Dakota, and Niobrara, millions and millions of acres of the richest and most productive of lands to be found anywhere within the bounds of the National Government. ” \Ve have, combined, the pleasant, salubrious climate of Southern \Iinnesota, and the fertility of Central Illinois.” The principal rivers are the Missouri, the Red River of the North, tile Big Sioux, Big Cheyenne, and the White Earth. Concerning these streams, the Report quoted above proceeds as follows: “The MLissouri River extends a thousand miles through the Territory, and is navigable for steamboats the entire distance, and hundreds of miles above. Tile country along the river is of unsurpassed fertility. The Big Sioux River is 200
miles long, a clear running stream of clear water, and cannot be surpassed for fertility of soil and tlhe variety and luxuriance of its vegetation.

The bottom lands on this stream are from a half to three miles wide, and bear an enormnous growth of bluejoint grass, which makes hay of an excellent quality. The Big Cheyenne is a most important river, and has its extreme source west of the Black Hills, which its two main branches enclose. These forks are supplied by numerous streams from the mountains, and they unite in about longitude 102~ 20’, the river flowing into the Missouri in latitude 44~ 48S’. In its lower course there is fertile land on its banks, and there are considerable areas in and around the Back Hills. The Cheyenne River can be rafted, and the stream that comes from the hills could be used to drive the logs down the river, and thus a way is opened to this fine supply of timber. White Earth River has generally an open well-wooded valley, with fine soil and luxuriant grass. Any one who travels in Nebraska will always feel rejoiced when he reaches the banks of this beautiful stream. It is much resorted to by the Brulds. It has numerous branches, the largest of which is called the South Fork. Thle pine on MWhite River and its tributaries is nearly equal in extent to that on the Niobrara. This 1082

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DAKOTA. stream has been used by traders to boat down their furs. I believe it can also be used to raft down the pine timber on its banks and branches. Lieutenant Warren speaks very favorably of the zNioblrara River, whichl is partly in our Territory, that there is coInsiderable pine timber on its banks and branches, and much good land and excellent water. The Red River of the iNorthl, rises in Lake Travers, flows Inorth 380 muiles to the Britishl possessions, and is a navig,able stream its entire distance, well-woo(led, and a soil unsurpassed in fertility. There are a number of other small streams, some of which have abundance of timber, and a good soil, and clear running water. There are quite a number of lakes in East Dakota remarkable for their beauty, and with their sylvan associations form the prominent chlarm of its rural landscape. There is an abundance of timber on some of these lakes surrounded with a good soil, water, and plenty of fish in the waters of the same. All the streams of Dalkota abound in delicious fish of many varieties. “The prevailing soil of Dakota is a dark, calcareous, sandy loanm, containing a various intermixture of clay, abounding in mineral salts, and an organic ingredient derived from the accunmulation of decomposed vegetable matter, for long ages of growth and decay. The earthy materials of our soil are minutely pulverized, and the soil is everywhere light, mellow, and spongy; while its sandy predominance makes our soil very early. The upland soil of East Dalkota cannot be surpassed for fertilitv and the variety and luxuriance of its vegetation. “Your committee have been unable to get any accurate information in relation to the amount of the crops per acre, but from their own personal observation, they are of the opinion that no State or Territory surpasses Dakota in the yield of their crops per acre, and they are of the opinion the average yield of wheat per acre is 25 bushels; oats, 45; corn, between 50 and 60; potatoes, 225. All vines and garden vegetables yield bountifully. But for raising wheat, Dakota, we believe, is not equalled by any State or Territory in the Union. Our dry, pure atmosphere is what is required for the perfection of tlhis grain; the best wheat grown in the world is the wheat grown on the Red River, within the limits of Dakota. The inhabitants of that section claim 60 bushels as an average yield per acre, and the wheat weighs from 65 to 70 pounds per bushel. Every one that has ever seen any of the Red River wheat pronounced it the finest tlhev ever saw. And we are of the opinion that a large portion of our Territory will yield equally as well; some farmers llave told your 108.14

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. conmmittee of a yield of 104 bushels of potatoes from one and one fourth bushels of seed, and corn at 100 bushels per acre.

“Dakota is the finest field in the world for stock-growing. It stands prominent above all other countries as the best for the produc tion of grass.‘The grasses,’ says Farrey,‘are proverbially in perfec tion only in northern and cold regions. It is in the north alone that we raise animals firom meadows, and are enabled to keep them fat and in good condition without grain.’ In none of the prairie districts of North Amnerica are the native grasses so abundant and nutritious as on tile plains and in the valleys of Dakota. This is sufficiently proved by the countless herds of buffalo that pasture throughout the year, upon its plains, even north of the 49th parallel of latitude; a fact which suggests an equivalent capacity for the herding of domestic cattle. Horses and cattle roam during summer and winter over the prairies and through the woods, and keep fat without housing or hay. The wild grasses of Dakota are of many varieties.

The bluejoint of the valleys makes the best of hay, and generally yields about three tons per acre. The gramma or buffalo grass of the upland prairies is so nutritious that horses will work all the time they are fed on it, without any grain, and keep fat. All the wild grasses of Dakota are more nutritious than any of the tame grasses; cattle become fatter by pasturing on it. When cut it shrinks much less in curing for hay. It sel(lom heats. There is no dust in the hay. Horses that eat it never have the heaves. The hay in appearance is green, and it smells much swveeter than tame hay. On the whole, it is superior either for pasturage or hay for horses, cattle, or sheep. Owing to the healthiness and the dryness of the climate of Dakota, sheep must do extremely well in Dakota. We have no cold sleet-storms here, that are so fital to sheep in many countries. The Indians have always kept thousands of horses in this country, but never feed them hay in winter.” Among the animals found in and native to the Territory are the buffalo or bison, the elk, antelope, deer, grizzly bear, black bear, wolf, raccoon, and muskrat. It is believed that the Territory is very rich in minerals. Valtuable deposits of gold, silver, iron, and copper have been discovered. Coal also exists in considerable quantities, and the salt lakes in the northern part of the Territorv furnish an abundant supply of salt. There are as yet no railways in the Territory, but several are in construction from Minnesota and Iowa. The principal route is the 1084

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DAKOTA. Northern Pacific Railway, now in process of construction from the head of Lake Superior westward. It will cross the northl-central portion of the Territory, from east to west. There is a system of public schools in operation. It is as yet in its infancy, but is well organized, and has thrown open about 25 free schools to the children of the Territory. The Episcopal Chlur(ch has a seminary at Yanctonl, and there are several private schools in the southern portion. The Government is similar to that of the other Territories. The Territory of Dakota was organized by Congress in March, 1861. In 1868, a large part of its original limits was taken from it to organize the Territory of Wyoming. YANCTON, the capital, is situated on the left bank of the Mlissouri River, about 7 miles above the mouth of the Dakota or James River, and in the southeastern corner of the Territory. It is 60 miles northwest of Sioux City, in Iowa, the present terminus of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway. It contains about 1500 inhabitants, 2 churches, 2 schools, 1 seminary (conducted by the Episcopal Church), and a newspaper office. It has steamboat communication with the towns on the Missouri River, and a railway is in progress of construction from Sioux City to Yancton. 1085

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IDAHO. Area…………..96,000 Square Miles. Populatioll in IS

70,…….. 14,998 THIE Territory of Idahlo lies between 42~ and 49~ N.

latitude, andi 110~ and 117~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north lby Briti.sll America, on the east by Montana and Wyoming Territories, on the south by Utah Territory and Nevada, and on the west by Oregon and Washingtonl Territory. Its greatest length, from north to south, is 480
miles, and its greatest breadth, from east to west, is about:40 miles. The widest portion is below the southern boundary of Montana. North of that the Territory varies in width from 40 to 6() mniles. The surface is mountainous. The Rocky Mountains extend for 2.59 miles along the eastern and northeastern borders, and a curvilinear range, called the Bitter Root Mountains, continues the eastern border from the Rocky Mountain range to the northern part of the Territory. Freinont’s Peak is the highest point of the Rocky Mountain range in the United States, and has an altitude of 13,570 feet. It lies on the border between Idaho and Dakota. There are’

several minor ranges in the various portions of the Territory. In the southeastern part are six high peaks, called the Three Buttes, and the Three Tetons. Much of the mountain scenery is grand and impressive-that in the vicinity of Salmon River is especially fine. The principal rivers are Clark’s River, the Lewis or Snlake, both branches of the Columbia, the Salmon, the Clearwater, the Boise, the Green, the Palouse, the Malade, the Payette, and the Lapwai. “The Snake River and its branches drain the whole Territory, except a portion, of about 120 miles long and 45 wide, in the extreme 1086

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IDAHO. A CANON IN THE ROCKY M3OUNTAINS. northern part, which is drained by Clark’s Fork of the Columbia and its branches, and an irregularly-shaped portion in the southeastern corner, which is drained by Green and Bear rivers. Bear River falls into Salt Lake, and Green River empties into the Colorado. This portion of the Territory has some farming and a large amount of good grazing lands, and is very scantily supplied with wood. No mines have been discovered in it. The principal branches of the Snake River in Idaho are the Clearwater, Salmon, Payette, Boise, and many small rivers and creeks, which, uniting, form a large river, with many falls and rapids and a current of great swiftness.” There are three lakes of considerable size in Idaho, the Coeur d’Aline, about 24 miles long and two or three wide, very irregular in form; the Pen d’Oreille, a crescent-shaped lake, about 30 miles long and 5 broad; and the Boatman, about the same length and 6 miles wide. The Pen d’Oreille and Clark’s Fork are navigable for steamers for 80 miles. The Surveyor-General of Idaho, in his Report for 1867, thus speaks of the Territory: “The altitude of Idaho Territory, with its mountains and tablelands, renders the winters cold compared with the country lying west, but dry and healthy. The Boise, Payette, and Weiser valleys are sheltered and mild. The soil of the valleys is highly favorable to the growth of cereals and vegetation.

Extensive crops are raised where 1087

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. irrigation is practicable. The alkali land, mostly covered with sage brush; has proved well adapted to the raising of grain.

The soil, reported second-rate, being decomposed granite, yields the heaviest crops. The extensive tablelands are covered with wild grasses and wild rye, and are valuable for grazing. The mountains are clothed with pine and fir timber. The valleys are destitute of timber except a species of cottonwood growing along the banks of the rivers. The valleys are depending upon the mountains at a heavy cost for lumber and fuel. “Gold is found on the headwaters of all the rivers. Rich placer mines have been profitably worked for years on the Clearwater and Salmon rivers. Extensive placer and quartz mines are found on the Boise River and its branches, embracing several districts. Many rich quartz lodes of gold and silver have been discovered and partially worked; their future development depending upon the reduced cost of transportation and other expenses, which thus far have retarded the growth and prosperity of the country. The quartz and placer mines of Owyhee county, situated in the southwest part of the Territory, have proved to be eminently rich so far as developed.

Some of the ledges are being worked with valuable machinery, repaying the capital invested, though at an enormous outlay. The quantity and quality of the ore already abstracted are favorable indications of their future wealth. Several thousands of gold and silver quartz claims have been taken up and recorded, more or less prospected, but the heavy expenses under which the miners of this Territory have labored, has, in general, prevented their successful development. The near approach of the Pacific Railroad to the southern borders of the Territory will materially reduce the cost of working the mines, when the resources of the country will be more favorably brought into notice.” There are no railways in the Territory. The Northern Pacific Railway will cross Idaho from east to west when completed. The Lewis or Snake Fork of the Columbia River is navigable to Lewiston, on the western border, just above the northern boundary of Oregon. This river furnishes the usual and most convenient route for persons and goods entering Idaho. The public school system has been in operation for several years. There are about 20 schools in the Territory.

These are limited to 8 or 9 counties. The Government is similar to that of the other Territories. The Territorial prison is situated at Boise City.

It does not pay expenses. 1088

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IDAHO. The Territory of Idaho was organized by Congress in March, 1863, out of portions of Oregon, Washington, Nebraska, and Utah Territories. In May, 1864, the Territory of Montana was formed out of the eastern portion.

The discovery of gold was the immediate cause of the settlement of the Territory. The rich deposits of the precious metal drew large numbers of settlers from California, Oregon, and the eastern settlements. In a short time the population of Idaho numbered 20,000. This soon fell off, however, as the mining excitement led the more adventurous portion to other places.

At present the population consists largely of settlers, who have come into the Territory with the intention of remaining there. The Territory is growing rapidly, and its permanent prosperity seems now placed on an assured basis. BOISE CITY, or BOISE CITY, the capital, is situated on the east side of the Boise River, at the head of the fertile valley of the same name, about 393 miles from Salt Lake City, in Utah. It has a beautiful location, is well laid out, and is one of the best built of the frontier towns. Nearly all the travellers and supplies for the Boise Basin pass through it; hence it is a great staging centre. It is the principal commercial town in the southern part of the Territory, being situated between the Owyhee and Boise Mines. It contains about 2500 or 3000
inhabitants, several churches and schools, and 3 newspaper offices. Thirty miles to the northeast of Boise City is the Boise Basin, a rich valley, about 18 miles long by 6 miles broad. It contains a number of towns and mining districts, and is the most populous part of the Territory. Idaho City is the largest town in this valley. It lies in the midst of the rich placer mines of the basin. It is the largest town in Idaho, and contains about 4000 inhabitants. In May, 1865, it was almost wholly destroyed by fire, but has since been rebuilt. Lewiston, at the head of navigation on the Lewis Fork of the Columbia, 353 miles east of Portland, Oregon, contains 2000 inhabitants, and is growing rapidly. Its position makes it one of the most important places in Idaho. 69 1089

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THIE INDIAN TERRITORY. Area,…………..68,991 Square Miles. Populatioin in 1870,……about 17,000. THE Indian Territory consists of a tract of country set apart by the United States as a permanent home for the Indian tribes removed thither from east of the Mississippi as well as those native to the Territory. It lies between 33~ 30’ and 37~ N. latitude; and between 94~ 30’ and 103~ WV. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Kansas, on the east by Missouri and Arkansas, on the south by Texas, and on the west by Texas and New Mexico. The country slopes gently from the western border, which lies near the foot of the Rocky Mountains, towards the eastern border. With the exception of a large sandy and barren tract in the northeast portion, called the Great Americani Desert, the surface of the Territory consists of undulating plains of great extent. The Ozark or Washita Mountains enter the eastern portion from Arkansas. The Territory is drained by the Arkansas and Red rivers and their tributaries.

The Arkansas and Red are navigable for steamers for a part of their course, but the tributaries are too shall6wr for navigation. The greater part of the Territory is still in a wild state, and abounds in game. Vast herds of buffaloes and wild horses roam over its prairies. The antelope, deer, prairie dog, wild turkeys, and grouse are found. The United States Government has military stations at Fort Gib,son, on the Arkansas, Fort Townson, on the Red, and Fort Vashita, on the Peed River, but the Federal Government exercises no authority over the Indians except for the punishment of certain crimes conmmitted by them against the whites. For this purpose, the Indian 1090 0

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INDIAN TERRITORY. Territory is annexed to the Judicial Districts of the States of’ Missouri and Arkansas, that the offending Indians may be brought to trial before the United States Circuit and District Courts when sitting in those districts. The Indians are allowed to live under their own laws, and to follow their own customs and modes of life. Each tribe I,has its lands assigned and secured to it by the United States. Several ei-orts have been made to organize the Territory. In the latter part of 1870, a general council of thle tribes was held at O(ckmulgee, at which a Constitution for the Territory, similar in its provisions and requirements to the Constitution of the United States, was adopted by an almost unanimous vote, subject to ratification by the people. This Constitution provides for a governmient a1d iolitical systeml similar to our own, and confines its privileges to the Indian tribes of the Territorv. In the new system the various Indian nations correspond withl the States of our own Confederation. The principal tribes now occupying the Territory are the (-,hoctaws, Chickasaws, Creeks, Semiinoles, Cherokees, and Ossages. Sonie of these tribes-the Cherokees being the most imnproved-l-have m-adec great advances in civilization, and have their towns, farms, schools, and churches, whilst others are fast falling into vagrancy. The United States GovernmLient holds in trust for these Indlians the sum of $1,600,000, yielding an annual income of over $100,000. The tribes have ceded nearly 40,000,000 acres of their lainds to tlhe United States, and thle organization of the Territory would open these to settlemient. The clhiefs oppose the movement. 1091

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MONTANA. Area,………… 143,766 Square Miles. Population in 1870…….20,594 THE Territory of Montana, with the exception of a small portion in the southwest, lies between 45~ and 49~ N. latitude, and 104~
and 116~ W. longitude. Its extreme length, from east to west, is about 560
miles, and its extreme breadth, from north to south, about 320 miles. This is at the projection in the southeast portion. In other parts its average breadth is about 275 miles. It is bounded on the north by British America, on the east by Dakota Territory, on the south by Wyoming and Idahlo Territories, and on the west by Idaho. “The surface is generally mnountainous. The great Rocky Mountain range extends across the Territory.

Commencing at the northern boundary this riange extends for a distance of about 200 miles in a south-southeast direction, and then describes a great curve towards the west until it touches the border of Idaho. From this point it extends along the southwestern boundary of Montana for a distance of nearly 200 miles. The Bitter Root Mountains also form a part of the western boundary. Minor chains of mountains occur in different parts of the Territory. The long valley of the Yellow Stone River, in the eastern part of Montana, is reported to be fertile, and to he bordered on one or two sides by grand walls of mountain. The valleys of the extensive region, between the Yellowstone and the Missouri, are said to be liberally supplied with running water and forest trees, amonog which the pine and cedar are to be found. The pine, fir, and cedar also abound on the Rocky Mountains and Bitter Root Mountains.‘The country bordering on the Jefferson Fork, the Gallatin Fork, and the Madison Fork of the Missouri,’

says Captain Mullan, 1092

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MONTANA. ‘ is among the most beautiful to be found west of the Mississippi. The country is a gently undulating prairie, dotted here and there with clumps of timber. All the streams are beautifully fringed with forest grolthl, the soil is rich, climate mild and invigorating, and all the elements for happy homes are here to be found.’ ” The principal rivers are the Missouri, the Yellowstone, and Clark’s Fork of the Columbia River.

Thie MIissouri rises near the southwestern corner of the Territory, and pursues a circuitous course throughout it-s -whole extent to the eastern border, where it passes into Dakota. About 500 miles from the source of the river, and in the western part of the central portion of the Territory, are the Great Falls of the Missouri, which rank next to those of Niagara in grandeur. They are described in the earlier pages of this work. The climate is healthful, and, with an atmosphere devoid of humidity, is admirably calculated for those afflicted with diseases of the lungs, or any manner of rheumatic affections. The purity of the water, and the entire absence of all malarious influences, also render it well adapted to the invalid suffering from any causes whatsoever. Professor G.

C. Swallow, in 1867, thus summed up the results of his investigations of the agricultural and mineral resources of Montana: ” It certainly is one of the finest stock countries on the Continent. All the more important domestic animals and fowls do remarkably well; horses, mules, and neat cattle are more hardy, and keep in better condition on the native grasses than they do in the States on hay and grain. As a general rule they winter well on the grass of the valleys and foot-hills without hay or grain. The valleys furnish a large area of natural meadows, whose products are equal to those of the cultivated meadows of the Middle States. Beef fattened on the native pastures is equal to the best produced in the country. “The small grains, wheat, rye, barley, and oats, produce as large an average yield as in the most favored grain-producin;g States; 50 and 60 bushels to the acre are not uncommon yields for Montana. Of the native fruits we have strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, serviceberries, choke-cherries, haws, currants, and lgooseberries, and there is every reason to believe that apples, pears, cherries, plums, quinces, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries can be cultivated in our broad valleys as successfiully as in any of the mother States. “All the more important root crops, such as potatoes, ruta-bagas, 1 093

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THE GREAT RiEPUBLfC. beets, carrots, turnips, ra(lishes, and onions, and all tile more important garden vegetables, are cultivated with great success. “Timber is abundant onl the mountain slopes and in some of the valleys. Five varieties of pine, two of fir, one of spruce, two of cedar, grow on the imoutininis and in the mountain valleys and canons; balsaIm)s, poplars, asplens, alders, and willows on the streams. The pines, firs, spruce, and cedars furnish an abundance of good timber for I)uildinc, mining,, and frming purposes. The purest waters abound everywhvlere, in cool springs, mountain streams, meadow brookls, al(l clear, rapid rivers.

Hot and mineral springs also occur. B~’,titul lakes, and imagnificent waterfalls and cascadles are numerous in thec mountains. Veins of gol, Sil v copper, lead, and iroii are found in great nlumil)ei’S inl nearly 1 t,e mountainous portions of the Territory. So far as dliscovele{l(, thl, usuaully come to the surfiice on the foot-hills and sides of thle valles an(l canons. A lar,ge portion of these lodes are tfl’e veiiis, cutting tiholugl, gra ite, syenite, porphyry, trap, gneiss, mica slate, hlornblen(le slate, talcose slate, argillaceous slates, sandstone, anid limestoine. Tlhiese veins vary in thickness, from a few inches to 50 or 60
feet. The gaangue or vein rocl, called q,artz by the mi-iiers liere, is erv tvariab)le iii character. In the gold-b)earing veins it is usually a whlitis,h quartz, more or less ferruginious-often nearly all iron. In soime veins it resembles a stratified quartzite; in others it is syenitic; pyrit(., l()Inbleiildc, eale-spar, arsenic, an-ti maony, copper and tell,irinum, aic fon.n(d in these veins. In thle silver veins the iron, so abundant in thle g(old veins, is usually replaced by oxidle of manganese.

This mineiral is sometinimes so abundant as to constitute thle larger portion of the (,anigue. The gangue in maily of the copper mines is usually quartz, heavy s)par, talec-spar, and brown spar, more or less commingled. “Mfany thousand lodes of gold, silver, and copper have already been discovered and recorded, and. large number of them somelwhat developed. It is true, as well as in all other minini{ regions, that a lar(re )part of the lodes discovered cannot )be worked witlh profit by tlhe metlhod( usually adopted in new mining countries; but nany of those wvhich cannot now be profitably workled will become valtlluible wi)eni experience has shown the best methods, and when labor and materials can be had at ordinary prices. Put there is a very large number of larg,e and rich lodes, which will yield large profits even at the present, prices of labor Ind material; and there is quite a number of lodes of 1094

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MONTANA A FRONTIE1t CITY. both gold and silver already discovered which will rank among the largest and richest in the annals of mining. “This, like all new mining districts, presents serious obstacles an(d difficulties in the way of immediate success. These are obvious to all experielned men, and are expected in all such un(lertakings. But all this and other hindrances to the full success of our qtuartz-mining-g operati3ons will soon be removed. They are evils which will naturally cure thlemselves. Better mills are now going into operation, better lodes are bought in larger quantities, good mien are employed to manage, and owners of quartz property are offering better facilities for developing their lodes; capital is turned toward this source of wealth, and our best financiers are operating in Montana mining property. ”’ The placer minies, th.ouigh very extensive, and in some instances vastly rich, have not yielded so mluchl as in former years. But imany new and rich discoveries have been made, and large sumrs of money spent in conducting water to favorite localities, and Nwe have every reason to believe that the placers will yield as many millions as in former years to those hardy toilers who have labored so faithfilly and successfully in secutring this’golden harvest.’ “In conclusion, it may be stated with safety that Montana has the agricultural capacity for sustaining any pop)ulation which her ninie(Ys, 1095

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. salubrious climate, and glorious scenery may attract to her fair land. Her mines are more numerous and more diffused than any other equal area on the globe, and they will prove as rich and yield as large profits as the most productive in this or any other country.” The bison or buffalo, the grizzly bear, the Rocky Mountain sheep, and the antelope are found in the Territory. The public school system promises to be a great advantage to the Territory. It is being gradually extended over the inhabited portions of the Territory. The Government is similar to that of the other Territories. The laws exempt homesteads worth $3000, farming tools, and seeds to farmers, and are equally liberal to other occupations.

The Territory was organized out of the eastern portion of Idaho, in May, 1

8864. VIRGINIA CITY, the capital of the Territory, is situated on Alder Creek, a tributary of Jefferson’s Fork of the Missouri. It is tolerably well built for a frontier city, and contained a population of 867, in 1870. It contains a school, several churches, a newspaper office, and a theatre. Stages connect it with the principal towns of the Territory.

HELE,‘NA, the largest city of Montana, is situated in the midst of the rich placer mines of Southwestern Montana. It is 18 miles west of the Missouri River, and 120 miles north of Virginia City. It contains several banks, a number of stores, several schools and churches, and 2 newspaper offices. In 1870, the population was 3713. 1096

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NEW MEXICO. Area………………… 121,201 Square Miles. Population in 1870,…… 91,874 THE Territory of New Mexico lies between 31~ 20’ and 37~ N. latitude, and between 103~ and 109~ W. longitude. It is bounded on the north by Colorado, on the east by Texas and the Indian Territory, on the south by Texas and the Republic of Mexico, and on the west by Arizona Territory. Its extreme length, from north to south, is about 400 miles, and its breadth, from east to west, about 3.50 miles The greater part of the Territory consists of high table lands broken by several ranges of mountains. The Rocky Mountains pass through the central portion from north to south. The Sierra Madre range passes through the western portion, and the southern and eastern parts contain several minor ranges, which diverge from the main chain of the Rocky Mountains and pass off into Texas. The principal river of New Mexico is the Rio Grailde del Norte, which, rising in the Rocky Mountains in Colorado, flows from north to south across the Territory, between the Rocky and Sierra Madre Mountains, draining an extensive valley. The Pecos River rises in the northern part of New Mexico and flows southward into Texas, draining the eastern portion of the Territory. The Gila rises on the western slope of the Sierra Madre, and flows westward into Arizona. The PLereo is the principal tributary of the Rio Grande. It rises on the eastern slope of the Sierra Madre and flows southward into the Rio Grande, which it joins near the 34thi parallel of north latitude. It is 200 miles long, and lies wholly within the Territory. The Canadian River, a tributary of the Arlkansas, rises in the northeast part of the Territory, and flows southeast into Texas. 1097

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. The habitable portion of the Territory is the Valley of the Rio Grande. Here the climate, owing to the great elevation of the valley, is temperate and constant. In the hotter portions of the day the mercury sometimes reaches 100~, but the nights are always cool. Some of the highest mountains are covered with perpetual sniow. Between July and October there are heavy falls of rain, but the atmosphere is in spite of this very dry. The ground is parched and hard during the greater part of the year. In consequence of this, the greater portion of the Territory is sterile. Except in a few regions nothing can be done in the way of agriculture, and in almost every portion artificial irrigation is nesessary to produce the simplest crops. Mlany parts of the Valley of the Rio Grande, alnd the valleys of some of the other streams produce good crops of Ilndian corn, wheat, melons, grapes, apples, peaches, and apricots. The Indians on the Gila cultivate cotton, wheat, corn, melons, and vegetables by means of irrigation. Irrigation, however, cannot always be depended on, as the water source is frequently destroyed by the evaporation of the streams. The valleys of the northeast portion of the Territory afford excellent pasturage, and the table lands, though unlfit for agricultural purposes, are excellent for stock raising. They pro{luce a peculiar grass, whichl the dry season cures instead of rendering it worthless. Cattle, sheep, mules, and horses find this excellent winter food. The Territory will probably never attain even a respectable position as an agricultural region, but it is destined to become a prominent place for stock raising. Only a small portion of the surface is wooded. Such hard woods as are found are of an inferior quality, and are limited in quantity. Animials are not as prolific here as in the other Territories.

Tlhose found here are the deer, mountain sheep), wild hlog, antelope, cougar, ocelot, lynx, brown bear, black bear, grizzly bear, coyote, wolf, Imarmot, skunk, weasel, hare, rabbit, squirrel, I)eaver, andl elkl. Wil(d turkeys, geese, dtucks and swans, are found. Tlhe Territory also contains a venomous species of the scorpion and lizard. It is probable that New Mlexico will owe its future prosperity to its mines miore than to any other source. It is said to be very rich in mineral deposits, especially in gold and silver, though very little has been done as yet towards the development. of these resources. A great drawback to mining enterprises is the hostility of the Apachees, who infest a large part of the Territory.

Iron is found in abundance; also gypsum; coal is found in limited quantities, and there are salt lakes 1098

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NEIW MEXICO. SANTA F. in the northeast portion. The salt, crystallized by the evaporation of the water by the sun, falls to the bottomn of the lake, where it exists ill a crust several inches thick. It is thrown directly into wagons, and dried by the sun. At first it contains some impurities, which give to it a dark color, but when washed it becomes snowy whlite.

The supply is said to be inexhaustible. Lead is also found, but it is too distant from the States to repay the cost of mining it. There is a public school system in the Territory, but it does not seem productive of much good. In 1866, out of a population of 93,516, there were 57,233 persons who could neither read nor write, and in that year the only free schools open in the Territory were those provided by the Roman Cathlolic Church and( tatught by the Sisters of Chairity. The Spanish language is spoken yl), the inhabitants. It is also the official language. The proceedings of the Legislature are conducted in Spanish, but are also printed in English.

The Government is similar to that of the other Territories, except that in New MIexico the power of the Governmnent is but slight. The inhabitants arc wild and lawless, as a rule, and are very low down in the scale of civilization. The condition of society is similar to that in MAexico. The Rioman Catholic religion is the principal faith. New Mexico was settled by the Spaniards at an early period. It 1099

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. constituted a province of Mexico until the conquest of that country by the forces of the United States, when it passed into the possession of the American Republic. In 1850, the Territory of New Mexico was organized, and for this purpose portions of California and Texas were added to the original Mexican province. In 1863, the western portion was organized as the Territory of Arizona. SANTA Ft, the capital, is situated on the Rio Chicito, or Santa Fe River, about 20 miles from its confluence with the Rio Grande. It is the seat of an extensive overland trade with the Missouri River. It is wretchedly built. The houses are constructed of adobe and are rarely more than one story in height. The inhabitants, with the exception of the few Americans residing or sojourning in the place, are ignorant and degraded. The place bears an evil reputation as one of the most reckless and miserable towns on the globe. In 1870, the population was 4600. 1100

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UTAH. Area,…………. qurmi Pop)ulation ill 1870,……. THEi Territory of Utah lies between 37~ and 42~ N. latitude, and between 109~ and 114~ W.

longitude. Its greatest length, fromn north to south, is 345 miles, and its greatest breadth, from east to west, about 270 miles. It is bounded on the north by Wyoming and Idaho Territories, on the east by Wyoming and Colorado, on the southi by Arizona, and on the west by Nevada. “The Wasatch range of mountains divides the Territory diagonally northeast and southwest into two parts, the northwestern being much lager than that lying to the southward. The Wasatch range is high and rugged. Its lofty summits, covered with perpetual snow, probably have an altitude of 11,000
or 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. In a broad and elevated range, surrounded by countries rich in gold and silver, we should expect to find those metals. But, so far as is known, no range of mountains on the western coast has been found rich in precious metals that has a trend to the northeast and southwest, and it may be considered problematical whether any mines of those metals will be found of great richness in the Wasatch Mountains. On the western side of the Territory are a number of small ranges, on the Goshoat and a number of others, that contain mines of gold and silver. “The largest river is the Colorado, one of the longest in the United States. Of its capabilities for navigation, comparatively little is known, though, so far as explored, the reports are unfavorable.

Its principal branches are the Green, Grand, San Juan, and Virgin rivers.

These drain the southeastern portion of the Territory. On 1101 88,056
square miles. 86,786 A

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THE GRIEAT RE’tUBL,IC. the north, Goose and Holmes’s creeks run into Snake River, but all the interior streams empty into lakes that have no outlet to the sea. Bear River and the Jordan empty into Salt Lake, besides many large creeks and numerous smaller ones. “Salt Lake is about 120 miles long, north and south, and 40 miles wide, and contains several islands of considerable size, some of wlhich are partially covered with timber. A steamer is now being built for the purpose of shipping the timber firom these islands f)r the use of Salt Lake City. The lake is subject to sudden storms, and boat naviga tion is sometimes dangerous. Until the present time, no serious efiort has been made to test its capabilities for navigation, but there is no doubt that the trade on this lake will, at some future period, be of considerable magnitude. The water is extremely salt. An analysis shows that it contains over 22 per cent. of solid matter. It is pro bable the lake once had anl outlet to the ocean; and from the fresh water tertiary fossils found at Bear River, and at other points, it is almost certain that it then contained fresh water. Then, also, it doubtless contained many varieties of fish, but as the water grew salt, they gradually perished; and, so far as has been observed, it has no animal life in it at present. The cause of the extreme aridity of this country lies in the fact that it is surrounded by high mountains. The Sierra Nevada on the wrest, the Wasatch range on the southtl and east, and the Rocky Mountains ou the north, completely en(ircle it. The wind comingi, from any quarter has its moisture al)sorb)ed in ieassing over the mountains. The absence of vegetation, the effect of this extreme aridity, also aggravates the droughts. The cultivationl of these valleys, bv covering them with crops and trees, may cause some change in the amount of rain-fall, and it is not uilikely that in the course of years the water in Salt Lake \vill be permanently lhigher than it is now. As the small rain-fall at p)resent is due to the environmient of mountains, the inference is, that in former tinms they did not exist, and that this lake is older than the mountains; this conclusion appears to be warranted by our present knowledge of the facts. ” Utahl Lake, the source of the Jordan, is almost in the shape of a rightangled triangle, about 30 miles long, and 20 wide. The water is fresh. There are several other lakes, as Little Salt, Sevier Lake, and Goshoat.” Thle Territory is generally an elevated, mountainous, and barren region. The waters of the Great Basin have no at))pparent outlet, and either discharge themselves into the lakes already mentioned, or sink into the sands of the desert. 1102

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U T’AH.1 Agricultural pursuits are extensively carried on by means of the best system of irrigation on the Continent. ” Farmers in the Eastern States might learn much here that would be valuable to them. Fromn a report of the Deseret Agricultural Society of January 11th, 1866, it appears that’there have been constructed 277 main canals, in length amounting to 1043 mniles, 102 rods, at a mean width of 5 feet, 6 inches, and a mean depth of 2 feet, 2 inches, which water 153,949; acres of land, at a cost of $1,766,939, and there is in course of coinstruction canals at an estimated cost of 8900,000.’” The efoibrts of the Mormon farmers have been well repaid, and their fruits, vegetables, etc., will compare favorably with those of any portion of the countryv. Iron is found in large quantities in Iron and Beaver counties Gold, silver, copper, zinc, and lead also exist, but it is believed that the deposits are small. Coal, both anthracite and bituminous, is found in limited quantities. Salt is yielded from the waters of Salt Lake inii unlimited quantities. It is becoming an article of export Soda exists in vast beds in many parts of the Territory. The animals native to the Territory are the elk, deer, antelope, grizzly bear, mountain shleep, fox, and wolf. The lakes abound il. water fowl, and the mountain streams in excellent trout and salmon.

The people of the Territory have gradually built up) a system of manufactures which does much to supply their immediate wants.. They make their own cloth, grind their own flour, and provide many articles of domestic use. Besides its local commerce, Utah carries onIL an active trade with the settlements in Colorado, iNevada, Idahlo, and Alonitana, off the line of the Pacific Railway. The Pacific Railway crosses the northern portion of the Territory from east to west. Ogden, a few miles north of Salt Lake City, is the eastern terminus of the Central Pacific, and the western terminus of the Union Pacific Railways. There is a system of public schools, and the Mormons have established a University of Deseret. The education provided by the MAormon schools, however, is said to be arranged with a view to keeping the children within the fold of the Mormon faith. Utah was originally a part of Upper California. In 1848, it was ceded to the United States by Mexico, and, in 1847, was settled by tihe MIormlons, who had been expelled from Nanvoo, in Illinois. They settled on the borders of Salt Lake, and bfounded Great Salt Lake City.

They set up a Provisional form of Government, and gave to iioal

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. A -~ ____ __________ ~ TIIE TAi]EPNA-CLE, SALT LAKE CITY. the Territory the name of the State of Deseret. In 1850, this form of government was abandoned, and the Territory of Utah was orgalnized. The Territorial Government is similar to that of other Territories; but, besides this, the Mormnon Church has a complete establishment of its own, of which Brigham Young, the Pro)phet, is the head or President. The Mormons, as a rule, pay little heed to the Territorial Government, but look to Young and the Twelve Apostles, as the chief -dignitaries of the Churchl are called, il all things. The laws of the United States are executed with difficulty, and a vast amount of trouble has been given the Federal Government by the hostility and mutinous conduct of the Mlormons. Just befbre the civil war, it became necessary to send an army into the Territory to compel obedien(ce to the laws.* It is believed, however, that the completion of the Pacific RPailway will rend(ler the task of enforcing obedience to the laws comparatively easy for the General Government. * The reader is referred to the inmerous works on Utahi and the Mormonis, for an account of the history, religious belief, and political system of the Mormons. The limits of this work forbid such a narrative here. 1104

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UTA. H. GREAT SALT LAIKE CITY, the capital of the Territory, is situated(l in Salt Lake Cotunty, on the east bank of the river Jo(r(lan, whichl connects Utah ILake wvithl the Great Salt Lake, about 22 nmiles east of thle latter lake, and 4200 feet above the level of the sea. It was laid out in July, 1847. In 1870, it contained a pol)ulation of about 17,000.

WilliamII Hepwvorth Dixon thus sketches tlhe city. The site of the new city was laid between the two great lakes, Utah Lake and Salt Lake,-like the town of Interlaclien, between Brieuz andl Tlhutn,thl()tugh the distances are here imuch greater, the tw-o inlantd seas of Utal-h being real seas whlen compare(l agailist the two chlarmingi lakelets in the BPernese Alps. A river, now called the Jo-rdani, flows firomn Utah into Salt Lalke; but it skirts the towii onlly, and(l, lying low down in the valley, is useless, as yet, for irrigaition. Youlnig has a plan for colstrutetilng a canal from Utah Lake to the city, l)y w-ay of the lower benchles of tlhe WVasatch chain; a pluan whlich will cost much money, and fertilize enormous sweep)s of barren soil. If Salt Lakle City is left to extend( itself in peace, the canal will soon be dulg; and the bench, now covered with stones, with sand, and a little wild sage, will be changed into vineyards and gardens. The city, which covers, we are told, three thousand acres of land(l, between the mountains and the river, is laid out in blocks of ten acres each. Each blockl is divided into lots of one acre and a quarter; this quantity of land being considered enough for an ordinary cottage and garden. “As Net, the te-nmple is unbuilt; the foundations are well laidl, of massive granite; and the work is of a kind tlhat bids fair to last; but the Teml)le block is covered with temp)orary buildings and erections the old( tabernacle, the great bowery, the new tabernacle, the temple foundations. A high wall encloses these edifices; a poor wall, without art, without strength; more like a mud wall than the great work which surrounds the temp)le platform on Moriahl. W’len tlhe works are fi.ishle(l, the enclosiure will be trimmed and planted, so as to ofier shladvy walks and a garden of flowers. The Tenmple block gives form to the whole city. From each side of it starts a street, a hundred feet in widthl, going out on the level plain, and in straight lines into space.

Streets of tlie same widtlh, tnd parallel to these, run north and south, east and( west; ea(l, l)Inted wvithl locust and ailattis trees, cooled by two running streams of water from the lil-side. Tlhese streets go lup north, towards thle 1)en(h, and nothing l)ut the lack of people prev7ents t-eim from travelling onward, to 1105

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. south and west, to the lakes, which they already reach on paper, and in the imagination of the more fervid saints. Main street runs along the temple front; a street of offices, of residences, and of trade. Originally, it was meant for a street of the highest rank, and bore the name of East Temple street; upon it stood, besides the temple itself, the Council house, the Tithing office, the dwellings of Young, Kimball, Wells, the three chief officers of the Mormon Church. It was once amply watered and nobly planted; but commerce has invaded the precincts of the modern temple, as it invaded those of the old; and the power of Brigham Young, has broken and retreated before that of the money-dealers and the venders of meat and raiment. Banks, stores, offices, hotels,-all the conveniences of modern life,-are springing up in Main street; trees have, in many parts, been cut down for the sake of loading and unloading goods; the trim little gardens, filll of peach trees and apple trees, bowering the adobe cottages in their.midst, have given way to shop-fronts and to hucksters’ stalls. In the business portion, Main street is wide, dusty, unpaved, unbuilt; a street showing the three stages through which every American city has to pass: the log shanty, the adobe cot (in places where clay and fuel can be easily obtained, this stage is one of brick), and the stone house. Many of the best houses are still of wood; more are of adobe, the sun-dried bricks once used in Babylonia and Egypt, and still used everywhere in Mexico and California; a few are of red stone, and even granite. The temple is being built of granite from a neighboring hill. The Council house is of red stone, as are many of the great magazines, such as Godbe’s, Jennings’, Gilbert’s, Clawsonh’s; magazines in which you find everything for sale, as in a Turkish bazaar, from candles and champagne, down to gold dust, cotton prints, tea, pen-knives canned meats, and mouse-traps. The smaller shops, the ice cream houses, the saddlers, the barbers, the restaurants, the hotels, and all the better class of dwellings, are of sun-dried bricks; a good material in this dry and sunny climate; bright to the eye, cosy in winter, cool in summer; though such houses are apt to crumble away in a shower of rain. A few shanties, remnants of the first emigation, still remain in sight. Lower down, towards the south, where the street runs off into infinite space, the locust and ailantuis trees reappear. “In its busy, central portion, nothing hints the difference between Main street in Salt Lake City, and the chief thoroughfare, say, of Kansas, Leavenworth, and Denver, except the absence of grog-shops, lager beer saloons, and bars. The hotels have no bars, the streets I 1106

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MAIN STREET, SALT LAKE CITY. K~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ i ar5D-prr1 C
a _ _or _ ~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~ __e. __c__ <J1JAd1

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I

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UTAH. have no betting-houses, no gaming-tables, no brothels, no drinkingplaces. In my hotel-‘ The Salt Lake’-kept by Colonel Little, one of the Mormon elders, I cannot buy a glass of beer, a flask of wine. No house is now open for the sale of drink (though the Gentiles swear they will have one open in a few weeks), and the table of the hotel is served at morning, noon, and night, with tea. In this absence of public solicitation to sip either claret-cobbler, whiskey-bourbon, Tom and Jerry; mint-julep, eye-opener, fix-up, or any other Yankee deception ill the shape of liquor-the city is certainly very much unlike Leavenworth and the River towns, where every third house in a street appears to be a drinking den. Going past the business quarter, we return to the first ideas of Young in planting his new home; the familiar lines of acacias grow by the becks; the cottages stand back from the road-side twenty or thirty feet; the peach trees, apple trees, and vines, tricked out with roses and sunflowers, smother up the roofs. “Right and left from Main street, crossing it, parallel to it, lie a multitude of streets, each like its fellow; a hard, dusty road, with tiny becks, and rows of locust, cottonwood, and philarea, and the building-land laid down in blocks. In each block stands a cottage, in the midst of fruit trees. Some of these houses are of goodly appearance as to size and style, and would let for high rentals in the Isle of Wight. Others are mere cots of four or five rooms, in which the polygamous families, should they ever quarrel, would find it difficult to form a ring and fight. In some of these orchards you see two, three houses; pretty Swiss cottages, like many in St. John’s Wood, as to gable, roof, and paint: these are the dwellings of different wives.‘Whose houses are these?’ we ask a lad in East Temple street, pointing to some pretty-looking villas.‘They belong,’ said he, ‘to brother Kimball’s family.’ Here, on the bench, in the highest part of the city, is Elder Hiram Clawson’s garden; a lovely garden, red with delicious peaches, plums, and apples, on which, through the kindness of his youngest wife, we have been hospitably fed during our sojourn with the Saints; a large house stands in front, in which live his first and second wives, with their nurseries of twenty children. But what is yon dainty white bower in the corner, with its little gate and its smother of roses and creepers? That is the house of the youngest wife, Alice, a daughter of Brigham Young. She has a nest of her own, apart from the other women,-a nest in which she lives with her four little boys, and where she is supposed to have as much of her own way with her lord as the daughter of a Sultan enjoys in the 1107

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. harem of a Pasha. Elder Naisbit, one of the Mormon poets, an English convert to the faith, as it is in Joseph, lives with his two wives and their brood of young children, on the high ground opposite to Elder Clawson, in a very pretty mansion, something like a cottage on the Under Cliff. Much of the city is only green glade and orchard waiting for the people who are yet to come and fill it with the pride of life. “In First South street stand the theatre and the City Hall, both fine structures, and for Western America remarkable in style. The City Hall is used as headquarters of police, and as a court of justice. The Mormon police are swift and silent, with their eyes in every corner, their grip on every rogue. No fact, however slight, appears to escape their notice. A Gentile friend of mine, going through the dark streets at night towards the theatre, spoke to a Mormon lady of his acquaintance whom he overtook; next day a gentleman called at his hotel, and warned him not to speak with a Mormon woman in the dark streets unless her father should be with her.

In the winter months there are usually 700 or 800 miners in Salt Lake City, young Norse gods of the Denver stamp; every man with a bowie-knife in his belt, a revolver in his hand, clamoring for beer and whiskey, for gaming-tables and lewd women, comforts which are strictly denied to them by these Saints. The police have all these violent spirits to repress; that they hold them in decent order with so little bloodshed is the wonder of every Western Governor and Judge. William Gilpin, Governor elect of Colorado, and Robert Wilson, shleriff of Denver and justice of the peace, have nothing but praise to give these stern and secret, but most able and effective, ministers of police. “With this court of justice we have scarcely made acquaintance. A few nights ago we met the judge, who kindly asked us to come and see his court; but while we were chatting in his ante-room, before the cases were called, some one whispered in his ear that we were members of the English bar, on which he slipped out of sight, and adjourned his court. This judge, when he is not sitting on the bench, is engaged in vending drugs across a counter in Main street; and as we know where to find him in his store, we sometimes drop in for soda-water and a cigar; but we have not yet been able to fix a time for seeing his method of administering justice at Salt Lake. “The city has two sulphur springs, over which Brigham Young has built wooden shanties. One bath is free. The water is refreshing and relaxing, the heat 92 degrees. “N o beggar is seen in the streets; scarcely ever a tipsy man; and 1108

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UTAH. the drunken fellow, when you see one, is always either a miner or a soldier-of course a Gentile. No one seems poor. The people are quiet and civil, far more so than is usual in these western parts. Fromn the presence of trees, of water, and of cattle, the streets have a pastoral character, seen in no other city of the mountains and the plains. Here, standing under the green locust trees, is an ox come home for the night; yonder is a cow at the gate, being milked by a child. Light mountain wagons stand about, and the sun-burnt emigrants, who have just come in from the prairies, thankfill for shade and water, sit under the acacias, and dabble their feet in the running creeks. “More than all other streets, perhaps, Main street, as the business quarter, offers picture after picture to an artist’s eye; most of all when an emigrant train is coming in from the plains. Such a scene is before me now; for the train which we passed in the gorge above Bear River, has just arrived, with sixty wagons, 400 bullocks, 600 men, women, and children, all English and Welsh. The wagons fill the street; some of the cattle are lying down in the hot sun; the men are eager and excited, having finished their long journey across the sea, across the States, across the prairies, across the mountains; the women and little folks are scorched and wan; dirt, fatigue, privation, give them a wild, unearthly look; and you would hardly recognize in this picturesque and ragged group the sober Monmoutith farmer, the clean Woolwich artisan, the smart London smith. Mule teams are being unloaded at the stores. Miners from Montana and Idaho, in huge boots and belts are loafing about. A gang of Snake Indians, with their long hair, their scant drapery, and their proud reserve, are cheapening the dirtiest and cheapest lots. Yon fellow in the broad sombrero, dashing up the (lust with his wiry little horse, is a New Mexican; here comes a heavy Californian swell; and there, in the blue uniform, go two officers from the camp. “The air is wonderfully pure and bright. Rain seldom falls in the valley, though storms occur in the mountains almost daily; a cloud coming up in the western hills, rolling along the crests, and threatening the city with a deluge; but, when breaking into wind and showers, it seems to run along the hill-tops into the Wasatch chain, and sail away eastward into the snowy range.” Three newspapers are published in the city, one of which is the organ of the Mormon Church. Besides the capital, the principal towns of Utah are, Provo, Ogden, Brownsville, Franklin, Springville, Nephi, Stockton, and Payson. 1109

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WA SHIN GTO N. Area,…………. Population in 1870……… AVAsHINGTON

TERRITORY embraces the extreme northwestern por tion of the Great Republic. It lies between 45~ 33’ and 49~ N. lati tude, and between 117~
and 124~ 43’ W. longitude. Its extreme length, from east to west, is about 360 miles, and its extreme breadth, from north to south, about 235 miles.

It is bounded on the north by British Columbia and the Strait of San Juan de Fuca (by the latter of which it is separated from Vancouver’s Island), on the east by Idaho, on the south by Oregon, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. The western half and parts of the southeastern portion of the Territory are mountainous. These nmountains being continuations of the ranges which have been described in Oregon. The Cascade Range extends entirely across the Territory, firom north to south, dividing it into two unequal portions; the larger and less rugged being the eastern portion., In this range occur, within the limits of the Territory, the lofty peaks of Mount Rainier, 12,300 feet high, Mount St. Helen and Mount Adams, each about 9500 feet high, and Mount Baker, 10,700 feet high. These are all covered with perpetual snow. West of the Cascade Range are the Coast Mountains, running parallel with and but a short distance from the Pacific Ocean. They extend from the Strait of San Juan de Fuca across the Territory into Oregon. Mount Olympus, 8150 feet high, is the principal peak. The Strait of San Juan de Fuca forms a part of the northern boundary, and separates Washington from Vancouver’s Island. It also affords water communication between the Pacific Ocean and Admiralty Inlet and Puget Sound, a large bay extending southward into 1110 69,994 Square Miles. 23,925

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WASHINGTON. the Territory for 70 miles firom the Gulf of Georgia. These are navigable for ships of the largest size. Gray’s Harbor, on the Pacific, at the mouth of the Chehalis River, is about 20 miles long, and has about 20 feet of water on the bar at low tide. Cape Flattery, at the entrance of the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, and Cape Disappointment, at the mouth of the Columbia River, are the principal capes. There are no important islands on the coast. The Isle of Grief, 40 miles south of Cape Flattery, is the largest. Whidby’s Island(l, in Admiralty Inlet, is noted for its deer. It is well timbered, but water is scarce. The Arroo Islands, north of it, possess valuable fisheries. Lake Chelan, in the northcentral part of the Territory, is the largest lake. It is 33 miles long. The principal rivers are the Columbia, and its two branches, the Clark’s and LIewis’s Forks, the Spokane, the Okanagan, the Yakima, the Chehalis, the Skogit, and the Cowlitz. The Columbia enters the northeastern part of the Territory from British Columbia, and at first flows southwest. Just below the 48th parallel of latitude, it turns westward and pursues a generally westward course to the 120th meridian of longitude, where it abruptly turns to the southeast, and flows in this general direction to the 46th degree of latitude, wlien it turns once more to the westward, and flows in that general direction to the Pacific Ocean. From the last turn mentioned it divides Washington from Oregon. It is navigated by a daily line of steamers. The Lewis’s Fork forms a part of the eastern boundary of the Territory, separating it from Idaho. At Lewiston it turns to the southwest, and flows to the Columbia. The Chehalis flows into Gray’s Harbor; the Skogit into Puget Sound; and the others into the Columbia.

These rivers all rise on the summit of the snowy mountains, and are subject to sudden freshets. Their rapids afford firstclass waterpower.

The climate of Washington resembles that of Ofegon. In the western portion of the Territory it is mild, there being scarcely any winter at all in this region. “Properly speaking, there are but two seasons, the dry and the rainy. The grades of temperature, and the accompaniments which in other countries of the same latitude ascribe the features and title to the four seasons, spring, summer, autumn, and winter, are here in great mneasure obliterated, or at least so dimly marked that the seasons imperceptibly run into each other, and lose their distinctive line of division. It is not unusual for the three winter months to be mild, without snow or ice, the grass growing meanwhile. 1111

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. In February, the weather may occur mild and genial as May, to be succeeded in March or April with our coldest weather. In July and August, days in some portions of which the nmaximum temperature will reach 90~ or 100~, are sometimes followed by cold nights, occasionally accompanied by heavy frost. The rainy season proper begins late in October or early in November, and may be said to continue till the ensuing April.

It frequently happens that after the first rainis weeks of weather similar to Indian summer occur, and it is sel(lom that one or other of the months of January, February, or March does not prove continuously mild and clear.

The summers of this Territory are unsurpassed in the world. While many days are exceedingly warmn, the nights are always cool and refreshing, as if specially intended for wholesome sleeping. In the winter months, six in number, rains prevail. No disappointment should be felt if falling weather occurred some part of each 24 hours, and yet many bright sunshiny days relieve the long-continued rainy season of Washington Territory.” “The soil of all the prairie lands, with the exception of those directly around Puget Sound, is exceedingly fertile. Those of the Sound are of a sandy, gravelly nature, not readily cultivated, but producing enormous fir and cedar trees. The soil on the mountains is generally very rich; but the dense growth of forest deters the emigrant from attempting clearings on a large extent, as the fine, fertile plains and prairie offer far greater inducements. Fruits of various kinds, particularly apples, can be cultivated very readily, and in the greatest perfection. Indian corn does not thrive well, as the seasons are not hot enough; but wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes yield the most abundant crops, of the finest quality.

The potatoes, in particular, are surpassingly fine. The wheat grown on the Columbia, called Oregon wheat, is known for its superior excellence. -

“Altliough the Territory is a very mountainous country, yet there are many immense plains and prairies; and, by reference to the map, it will be seen that innumerable streams, like veins, permeate the whole region, and each of them, from the largest to the smallest, flows in its course through rich and fertile plains, of various sizes, lying between the mountains.

Governor Stevens, in January, 1854, writing of the Territory, says of the waters of Puget Sound, and the adjacent ones of Hood’s Canal, Admiiralty Inlet, and Fuca Straits,‘that their maritime advantages are very great, ill affording a series of harbors 1112 i

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WASHIINGTON. almost unequalled in the world for capacity, safety, and facility of access, and they are in the immediate neighborhood to what are now the best whaling grounds of the Pacific. That portion of Washington Territory, lying between the Cascade Mountains and the ocean, although equalling, in richness of soil and ease of transportation, the best lands of Oregon, is heavily timbered, and time and labor are required for clearing its forests and opening the earth to the production of its fruits. The great body of the country, on the other hand, stretching eastward from that range to the Rocky Mountains, while it contains many fertile valleys and much land suitable to the farmer, is yet more especially a grazing country-one which, as its population increases, promises, in its cattle, its horses, and, above all, its wool, to open a vast field to American enterprise. But, ill the meantime, the staple of the land must continue to be the one which Nature herself has planted, in the inexhaustible forests of fir, of spruce, and of cedar. Either in furnishing manufactured timber, or spars of the first description for vessels, Washington Territory is unsurpassed by any portion of the Pacific coast.’ ” The timber of the Territory is like that found in California and Oregon. The giant fir grows here, often attaining a height of 300 feet, and a thickness of from 8 to 12 feet. The other trees are the spruce, maple, hemlock, cedar, oak, ash, alder, and willow. These are all of the finest and most useful species. The forests of the Territory are plentifuilly stocked w\vith game. The animals, native to this region, are the elk, deer, bear, fox, otter, beaver, muskrat, and rabbit. The native birds are the swan, wild goose, brant, gull, duck, eagle, grouse, pheasant, partridge, woodcock, hawk, raven, and robin. The waters of the Territory swarm with fish, among which are the cod, mackerel, halibut, herring, flounder, oyster, crab, lobster, and clam. The Columbia and its tributaries are famous for their fine salmon fisheries, which are along the most extensive in the world. The commerce of the Territory consists principally in the export of lumber, particularly of masts and ship timber. The masts and spars produced in this Territory are said to be the best in the world. The amount of timber exported from Puget Sound is estimated at nearly $2,000,000 annually. Numerous saw mills are engaged in preparing lumber for domestic use and for exportation. The assessed value of property in the Territory, in 1869, was $7,843,239. The mineral resources of the Territory have hardly been satisfac 1113

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. .TEET IN OLYMPIA. ST REET IN OLYMIPIA. torily ascertained yet. Gold has been found on the Columbia River, and ill the northeastern part of the Territory. Coal is found in apparently inexhaustible quantities west of the Cascade Range, along the Columbia and the rivers emptying into the Pacific, and near the Strait of San Juan de Fuca. It is believed that there is coal enough in Washingtonll to supply the wants of the Pacific coast for generations to come. The public school system is the best of any of the Territories. The schools have been ill operation a number of years, and are doing a noble work for the children of the Territory. There are between 50 and 60 public schools in the Territory, besides severalprivate schools. All are well attended. The University of Washington is located at Seattle, in King county. It was established in 1862. The general Government has endowed it with 46,080
acres of unoccupied land, which it is believed, will create a fund of at least $75,000. There are about 10 public libraries in the Territory, and 9
newspapers are published there. The Territory of Washington was organized in March, 1853, up to which time it formed a part of Oregon. 1114

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WASHINGTON. OLYMPIA, the capital of the Territory, is situated in Thurston county, on the east side of Tenalquet’s River, at its entrance into Puget Sound. It lies at the head of ship navigation on Puget Sound, 150 miles from the Pacific Ocean. It contains the State House, Territorial library, several churches and schools, and 5 newspaper offices. “It is a quaint village,” says Albert I). Richardson, “among logs and stumps, and traversed by plank side walks erected upon stilts to avoid mud and deluge.

The arterial street begins on the level shore of the smooth shining sound, climbs a low muddy hill, and plunges out of sight in the deep pine woods.

The Capitol is a lonely, white frame building, like a warehouse; but we found the national flag floating from it, and from nearly all the little neat cottages which constitute the better dwellings.” The population is about 1500. 1115

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WY O MING. Area,………. about 88,000 Square Miles. Population in 1870,……. 9,118 THE Territory of Wyoming lies between 41~ and 45~ N.

latitude, and between 104~ and 112~ W. longitude. Its extreme length, fronm east to west, is about 390 miles, and its breadth, from north to south, about 275 miles. It is bounded on the north by Montana, on the east by Dakota and lNebraska, on the south by Colorado and Utah, and on the west by Utah, Idaho, and Montana. A large part of the Territory is mountainous. The Rocky Mountains cross the western part from northwest to southeast. The Rattlesnake and Big Horn Mountains occupy a considerable part of the northern and western parts, and the Black Hills lie along the eastern border and extend into Dakota. The principal river is the North Fork of the Platte, which rises on the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains and pursues a generally eastward course into Nebraska. The Gallatin Fork of the Missouri, the Yellowstone and its tributaries, and the Little Missouri, take their rise in the northern part of the Territory, and the northeastern portion is drained by the headwaters of the Shyvenne and its branches. Much of the land of Wyoming is suited to cultivation. Other sections, however, suffer from a scarcity of water. The whole Territory is well supplied with timber, and in the southern portion the supply is inexhaustible. The pine, spruce, hemlock, and cedar, are the principal trees. The Territory offers superior advantages for stock raising, the prairies being covered with a spontaneous growth of anl excellent and nutritious grass. The climate is healthful and delightful.

The winters are mild and 1116

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WYOMING. PRAIRIE DOG CITY. open, and in many parts, from November to April, the cattle can be kept without shelter, and find excellent food in the standing grass of the prairies. Gold has been found in considerable quantities within 25 miles of the Pacific Railway. Immense beds of iron and coal have been discovered within a short distance of the same road.

Lead and copper are also found in some portions of the Territory, and others contain valuable oil wells, while lime and gypsum are abundant. It is believed that in the course of a few years Wyoming will be one of the principal mining regions of the country. The Pacific Railway offers unusual facilities for prompt communication with the Eastern markets. The country south of the North Fork of the Platte is the only part settled as yet. The Pacific Railway passes almost through the centre of this portion, and is doing much towards improving and settling it. The government is similar to that of the other Territories. In Wyoming women possess the right of suffrage, and the right to sit on juries. A grand jury, consisting of men and women, was empanelled at Laramie City on the 7th of March, 1870. Women also have the right to hold office. At the Territorial election of Septem)er 7, 1870, the women very generally voted. Women were nomni 1117

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THE GREAT REPUBLIC. nated by the Republican party at Cheyenne for the offices of county clerk and school superintendent, but were defeated with the rest of the local ticket. The Territory of WVyominig was organized on the 25th of July, 1868, out of portions of Dakota, Idaho, and Utah, the larger part consisting of the western portion of Dakota. CHEYENNE, the capital, and largest and most important town in the Territory, has now a population of from 3000 to 5000. Much of it is “floating,” and the population of the place varies more than that of most mining towns. It is situated on the Union Pacific Railway, 516 miles from Omaha, and is a place of considerable trade. Two newspapers are published here. “The first stake was driven at Cheyenne on the 13th of July, 1867, and in one month there was a town of 8000 inhabitants on the spot. These were, however, made up in a large measure of adventurers and disreputable characters. No sooner was a new station of the Pacific Railway established at Laramie than a large. part of this population departed from Cheyenne, but the more respectable portion remained, and a permanent city has been founded.” THE

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